UCSB   LIBRARY  0 


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OUR  SISTEE  REPUBLIC: 

A    GALA   TRIP 


THROUGH 

TEOPICAL     MEXICO 

IN  1869-70. 

ADVENTURE  AND  SIGHT-SEEING  IN  THE  LAND  OF  THE  AZTECS, 

WITH  PICTURESQUE  DESCRIPTIONS  OF   THE 

COUNTRY  AND  THE  PEOPLE, 

AXD 

REMINISCENCES  OF  THE  EMPIRE  AND  ITS  DOWNFALL. 

BY 

COL.   ALBERT  S.  EYAI^S. 


WITJT 


PUBLISHED  BY  SUBSCBIPTIOH  OHL7. 


HARTFORD,  CO]STN.: 
COLUMBIAN  BOOK  COMPANY. 

W.  E.  BLISS,  TOLEDO,  OHIO. 

A.  L.  BANCROFT  &  COMPANY,  SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 

1870. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1870,  by 

ALBERT  S.  EVANS, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


Entered  also  at  Stationer's  Hall,  London,  England. 


TO  HEM 

WHO  THROUGH  ALL  MY  WANDERINGS  HAS  EVER^  BEEN 

PRESENT  IN  MY  MIND,  AND  WHOSE  LoYE  HAS 

BEEN  THE  GUIDING  STAR^  OF  MY  LIFE, 


THIS  VOLUME  is  DEDICATED,  IN  TESTIMONY  OF 
UNCHANGING  AFFECTION. 


INTRODUCTORY  LETTER 
FROM  HONORABLE  WILLIAM  II.  SEWARD. 


AUBURN,  August  6th,  1870. 
MY  DEAR  COLONEL  EVANS  : — 

Your  book  on  Mexico  contains  the  observations  which 
you  made  while  a  member  of  the  party  with  which  I  traveled 
through  that  magnificent  and  interesting  Country.  Received 
and  entertained  there  as  a  guest  of  the  Republic,  I  have  prac- 
ticed in  regard  to  Mexico,  since  my  return  to  the  United  States, 
the  same  delicacy  which  I  expect  a  friend  whom  I  have  been 
entertaining  to  practice  when  he  has  left  my  house.  For  this 
reason  I  cannot  sanction  either  your  observations  or  your 
deductions. 

I  am  at  liberty,  however,  to  say  that  your  details  of  our 
travels  are  full  and  accurate ;  your  account  of  the  resources  and 
capacities  of  the  country  is  not  exaggerated ;  your  pictures  of 
Mexican  society  will  be  thought  by  the  public  too  highly  colored : 
I  think  that  your  error  lies  on  the  other  side.  The  Statesmen 
of  the  country  deserve  all  the  praise  you  have  bestowed  upon 
them.  Your  style  is  attractive,  the  book  is  spirited,  and  I  think 
it  calculated  to  be  useful. 
Sincerely, 

your  friend  and  well-wisher, 

WILLIAM  H.  SEWARD. 

COLONEL  ALBERT  S.  EVANS, 

San  Francisco,  Cal. 


PREFATORY. 


Tins  work  embodies  the  observations  of  the  Author  on 
Mexico  and  her  people,  made  while  traveling  as  one  of  the 
party  of  the  Hon.  Win.  II.  Seward,  in  1869-70. 

Through  the  kind  partiality  of  Mr.  Seward,  and  the  liber- 
ality of  the  Government  and  Citizens  of  Mexico,  the  Author 
undoubtedly  enjoyed  greater  facilities  for  seeing  the  country 
and  its  inhabitants,  than  have  been  accorded  to  any  other  traveler 
for  many  years. 

I  have  endeavored  to  give  an  impartial  description  of  what 
I  saw  and  heard  in  that  land  of  wonder  and  romance,  avoiding 
neither  the  lights  nor  the  shadows  of  the  picture. 

I  had  been  familiar  with  the  people  of  Mexico,  a  portion  of 
their  country,  and  much  of  their  history,  for  many  years ;  had 
sympathized  with  them  in  their  noble  struggle  against  invasion, 
and  the  infamous  attempt  of  European  rulers  to  subvert  free, 
government  and  plant  despotic  institutions  on  the  soil  of 
America ;  against  the  bigoted,  superstitious  and  intolerant  party 
of  conservatism,  which  steadfastly  opposed  the  education  of  the 
masses  and  all  progress;  against  slavery,  and  the  remnants  of 
monarchical  institutions  handed  down  to  them  as  a  part  of  the 
curse  of  Old  Spain,  and  was  prepared  to  make  many  allow- 
ances for  errors  and  short-comings,  in  view  of  the  obstacles  in 
the  way  of  the  country's  progress,  and  the  trials  through  which 
the  nation  had  been  called  upon  to  pass. 

The  journey  was  in  many  respects  the  most  remarkable  one 
on  record.  No  private  citizen — whatever  might  have  been  his 
former  station  in  life — ever  received  such  an  ovation  as  was 
given  to  Mr.  Seward,  by  the  people  and  Government  of  Mex- 
ico. From  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic, — over  a  journey  of 
some  twelve  hundred  miles, — it  was  one  grand  triumphal  march3 
and  all  classes  and  parties  joined  in  the  demonstration. 


PKEFATOKY. 

Seeing  much  to  praise,  something  to  blame,  and  much,  to 
excuse  as  the  inevitable  result  of  the  acts  of  those  who  admin- 
inistered  the  Government  and  shaped  the  destinies  of  Mexico 
before  the  present  generation  came  upon  the  field  of  action,  I 
can  safely  say  that  the  balance  was  decidedly  on  the  right  side 
and  that  I  came  away  with  more  respect  for  the  people,  more 
sympathy  for  a  nationality  struggling — sometimes  blindly,  but 
always  earnestly  and  persistently — along  the  path  of  progress, 
and  more  hope  for  the  future  of  that  much  misunderstood  and 
much  misrepresented  Republic,  than  I  had  when  I  entered  it. 

The  journey  was  one  of  the  most  pleasing  episodes  of  my 
life,  and  the  memory  of  the  friendships  established,  and  the 
unceasing  kindness  and  consideration  received  at  the  hands  of 
Mr.  Seward  and  the  other  members  of  his  party,  and  the  peo- 
ple of  the  country  through  which  we  traveled,  will  be  a  source 
of  heartfelt  enjoyment  through  all  coming  years. 

I  have  not  aimed  at  writing  a  comprehensive,  statistical,  and 
historical  work  on  Mexico,  but  have  left  that  task  to  other  and 
abler  pens,  giving  only  what  came  under  our  personal  observa- 
tion, and  endeavoring  to  show  the  reader,  the  country  and  the 
people  as  we  saw  them. 

In  a  land  where  nature  has  lavished  all  her  wealth  with 
tropical  prodigality,  where  the  scenery  is  grand  and  beautiful 
beyond  description,  and  every  step  is  over  historic  ground,  and 
amid  scenes  around  which  the  romance  of  centuries  has  accu- 
mulated, I  could  not  fail  to  see  much  to  interest  the  reader  and 
make  the  story  of  such  a  journey  worthy  of  perusal,  whatever 
my  abilities  as  a  writer  might  be. 

The  relations  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States  must 
become  more  intimate  as  years  elapse.  The  interests  of  the 
two  Republics  are  growing,  every  day,  more  nearly  identical. 
Nature  and  republican  institutions  have  made  us  allies,  and  an 
injury  inflicted  upon  one  must  be  felt  by  the  other,  as  well,  in 
the  end.  If  what  I  have  written  shall  assist  my  countrymen  in 
forming  a  more  just  and  favorable  idea  of  Mexico  than  they 
have  hitherto  entertained,  I  shall  have  every  reason  to  be  more 
than  satisfied  with  the  result  of  my  labors. 


105  NASSAU  ST   N.Y.    — * 


PAGB. 
PORTRAIT  OF  THE  AUTHOR, — Frontispiece, 

HON.  WILLIAM  H.  SEWARD  TRAVELING  IN  MEXICO,  -      19 

THE  GOLDEN  GATE,          -                                 -  .20 

BEACH  AND  HOUSES  AT  MANZANILLO,  -     27 

PORTRAIT  OF  SENOR  Luis  RENDON,       -  35 

SENOR  HUARTE'S  HOUSE  AT  COLIMA,  -     48 

A  TORTILLA  MAKER,         -  79 

PORTRAIT  OF  COL.  SABAS  LOMELI  OP  THE  JALISCO  GUARD,  -     80 

THE  BARRANCA  DE  BELTRAN,     -                      .  84 

INDIANS  FROM  MICHOACAN  GOING  UP  TO  GUADALAJARA,  -  -      87 

BRIDE  AND  GROOM  ENTERING  THE  CHURCH,     -  -           90 

HACIENDA  IN  THE  MOUNTAINS  OF  JALISCO,  -      97 

EFFECTS  OF  TAKING  A  DRINK,                -                      -  -         H3 

THE  GRAND  CATHEDRAL  OF  GUADALAJARA,  .  118,. 

BLIND  GIRL  IN  THE  HOSPICIO,     -  -         125, 

THE  GREAT  CEMETERY  OF  BETHLEM,  -    133 

A  MEXICAN  CART,  134 

INDIAN  EMBROIDERERS  AND  THEIR  WORK,  -    137 

INDIAN  STATUARY  MAKERS  OF  TONILLA,  139 

A  SUNDAY  BULL-FIGHT  AT  GUADALAJARA,  -  -    145 

GUTIERREZ,  THE  TERROR  OF  JALISCO,   -  .         160 

THE  GRATEFUL  GUAVA  MERCHANT,  -    161 

VENTA  DE  LOS  PAGARROS,  164 

CHURCH  OF  SAN  JUAN  DE  LOS  LAGOS,  •    166 , 

THE  RESERVOIRS  AND  PROMENADE  AT  GUANAJUATO,  183 
PORTRAIT  OF  FLORENCIO  ANTILLON,  GOVERNOR  OF  GUANAJUATO,         -    187 

THE  ANCIENT  CASTLE  OF  GRENADITAS,            -                      -  190  • 


10  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE. 

THE  TARANTULA  OP  THE  MINES,      -                                «  -    210 

THE  EXECUTION  OF  MAXIMILIAN,         .  236 
WHAT  is  LEFT  OF  THE  EMPIRE,       -  -    238 
THE  MEXICAN  GIRL  AND  HER  BLIND  FATHER,                                   •        243 
MANEUVERING  FOR  A  PIG-SKIN,       -  -    245 
FAMILY  RESEMBLANCE — A  REMINISCENCE  OP  WHITE  PINE,  -  247 
INTERIOR  OF  MR.  SEWARD'S  HOUSE  IN  MEXICO,     -  -    251 
PORTRAIT  OF  SENORITA  DONA  ROSA  MANCILLAS,  252 
PORTRAIT  OF  SENORITA  DOLORES  MORA,    -  -    252 
PORTRAIT  OF  SENORITA  Luz  ACOSTA,    -  252 
PORTRAIT  OF  SENORITA  SOLEDO  JUAREZ,   -  -    252 
PORTRAIT  OF  SENORITA  MACLOVIA  HILL,  252 
TERMINATION  o  F  THE  SAN  COSME  AQUEDUCT,       -  -    259 
THE  POLICEMEN  OF  MEXICO — A  STREET  SCENE,  262 
PORTRAIT  OF  MATIAS  ROMERO,  MINISTER  OP  HACIENDA,  -    269 
CHAPULTEPEC,       -  271 
PORTRAIT  OF  DON  SEBASTIAN  LERDODE  TEJADA,  MINISTER  OF  FOR- 
EIGN RELATIONS,    -  274 
PORTRAIT  OF  IGNACIO  M.  ALTAMERANO,  THE  INDIAN  ORATOR,    -           -    287 
THE  PUEBLO  AT  TAGS,     -  305 
PORTRAIT  OF  DON  BENITO  JUAREZ,  PRESIDENT  OP  MEXICO,         -        -    806 
PORTRAIT  OF  MAXIMILIAN,  310 
PORTRAIT  OP  CARLOTTA,       -                     -  -    311 
BROKEN  PLATE  FRJOM  CHAPULTEPEC,     -  312 
THE  GREAT  CATHEDRAL  OP  MEXICO,  -    341 
FLAGELLANTES  ENTERING  THE  CHAPEL  TWENTY  YEARS  AGO,  345 
A  MEXICAN  BEGGAR — "  TENGO  NADA  SENOR,"  -    370 
THE  EARTHENWARE  SELLER,     -  371 
THE  MEXICAN  WATER  CARRIER,  -    372 
THE  ORANGE  SELLER,      -  873 
THE  POULTRY  SELLER,  .    374 
THE  VEGETABLE  SELLER,  375 
CHOLULA,  AND  THE  AZTEC  PYRAMID,  -    428 
OUR  AZTEC  MUSICIANS  AT  CHOLULA,      -  434 
THE  NEEDLE  PALM  OR  SPANISH  BAYONET,  -    448 
SUNDAY  AMUSEMENT  AT  VERA  CRUZ — BULL  AND  BEAR  FIGHT,  490 
THE  RANCHERO  AND  HIS  PIG,  -    504 
THE  HORSE  AND  THE  ZAPILOTES,          -          -                     -  506 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

PASB. 

Good-Bye  to  San  Francisco — Chinese  Sailors — Voyage  down  the  Coast — 
Verdureless  Mountains — Sunday  Service  at  Sea — Wreck  of  the  Golden 
City — Signal  Rockets — The  Montana — Meeting  of  Steamers  at  Night — 
Cape  St.  Lucas — Within  the  Tropics — A  Desolate  Region — Castor-Oil 
Whales — A  Tropical  Sunset  at  Sea — El  Mar  de  Cortez — Arrival  at 
Manzanillo — The  Guest  of  Mexico — Washed  up  by  the  Sea — Sights  and 
Scenes  on  Shore — Battle  of  Sharks  and  Alligators — Visitors  from  Coli- 
ma — GoVi  Cueva — Productions  of  Manzanillo — Tropical  Fruits — Em- 
barkation and  Passage  of  the  Flotilla  up  the  Laguna  de  Cayutlan — 
A  Charmed  Circle— The  Wealth  of  the  Tropics— Wild-Flowers,  Parrots 
and  Alligators — Our  Indian  Rowers — Scene  on  the  Beach — Dejected 
Mules — Crossing  the  Rio  de  Santa  Maria — Indian  Population — Battle- 
Ground  of  San  Bartolo — The  great  Hacienda  of  La  Calera — Life  in  the 
Tropics — Senor  Huarte — Rural  Mass  and  Sunday  Scenes — Pigeon-Eng- 
lish— Departure  from  La  Calera — Our  Coach  and  Six — The  Custom- 
House  Guard — Water  Bearers  of  Mexico — Colima  the  Beautiful,  -  -  49 

CHAPTER    II. 

Colima — Night  Entrance  to  the  Ancient  City — The  Music  of  Cortez — 
Is  it  a  Revolution  1 — In  Grenada  or  Damascus — View  from  the  Balcony — 
The  Valley  of  Colima — Picturesque  Scenes  on  the  Streets — The  Plaza 
and  Markets — The  Gardens  of  the  Tropics — Their  Flowers  and  Fruits — 
The  People  and  Resources  of  Colima — Productions  of  the  Country — The 
Cocoa-nut — Agua  de  Cocoa — Coffee  and  Chocolate — Linoloe — Honors  to 
Mr.  Seward — Invitation  to  the  Palace — A  Brilliant  and  Beautiful  Scene — 
The  Ball  and  Banquet — Eloquent  Address  of  Gov.  Cueva — Mr.  Seward's 
first  Speech  in  Mexico — A  Grand  Fandango — The  Cotton  Factories  &nd 
the  Operatives — Ravages  of  War — Visit  to  the  Public  Schools — The 
State-Prison  and  Prisoners— Curious  Christening  Ceremonies — The  Guard 
of  Jalisco  and  their  Commander, 69 

CHAPTER    III. 

Farewell  to  Colima — Painful  Scene  at  the  U.  S.  Consulate — Departure  of 
the  Grand  Cavalcade — The  Country  and  the  People — The  Barranca 


12  CONTENTS. 

Country — Mr.  Seward's  Palanquin — Magnificent  Scenery — Dinner  with 
Qov.  Vega  at  Tornila — The  great  Volcano  of  Colima — The  Foot-Hills  of 
the  Sierra  Madre — Tortilla  Makers — Our  Escort — The  Guard  of  Jalisco 
on  the  Marcli — Hacienda  de  San  Marcos — Wild  Night  Scene — The  Cav- 
alcade by  Torch  Light — Great  Barranca  de  Beltran — Fate  of  Gen.  Ar- 
teaga — Historic  Ground — Passage  of  the  last  of  the  Barrancas — Aten- 
quiqui — An  Indian  Runner — Commerce  of  the  Road — Crossing  the  Sier- 
ra Madre — Zapotlan — Soap-Factories — "Going  the  whole  Hog" — A 
Mexican  Wedding  Party — Floral  Decorations— Anecdote  of  Rojas — A 
Monoi>oly  of  Crime — How  Local  Revolutions  are  Managed — Victims  of 
the  Pronunciamentos, 94 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Under  a  Cloud — Saints,  Festivities  and  Bull-Fights — Wayside  Crosses — A 
Land  of  Brigands,  Plagiaros  and  Blood — Wholesale  Shooting  of  Out- 
laws— A  Magnificent  Valley — Our  Welcome  at  Seyula — Visit  to  the  Pub- 
lic Schools — Interesting  School  Exhibition — Sunday  Evening  Ball — Mex- 
ican Beauties — The  Birds  of  the  Tropics — Indian  Villages — Reception  at 
Zacoalco — Battle  Field  of  La  Coronea — Defeat  of  the  Imperialists — Gen- 
eral Martinez — A  terrible  Pun — A  Mexican  Fonda  and  Mexican  Cook- 
ing— Great  Sugar  Hacienda  del  Plan — Strange  Sights  on  the  Road — 
Kneeling  Men  and  Women — The  Century  Plant — Tequila  and  its  Ef- 
fects— A  Swell-Head — First  View  of  Guadalajara — Reception  and  En- 
trance into  the  City — Guadalajara  by  Moonlight — The  Old,  Old  Song,  -  116 


CHAPTER    V. 

Churches  of  Guadalajara — A  Retreat  from  the  World — The  Music  of 
Bells — The  Great  Cathedral — A  Magnificent  Altar — Paintings  and  Stat- 
uary— Strange  Superstitions — Well-preserved  Bishops — Great  Hospital 
of  San  Miguel  de  Belan — Sisters  of  Charity — TheHospicio  of  Guadala- 
jara and  its  Sixteen  Hundred  Inmates — The  Chapel  of  the  Hospicio — 
Public  Schools  of  Jalisco — Girl's  and  Boy's  High  School — Library  of 
Thirty  Thousand  old  Books — School  of  Useful  Arts — Musical  Talent — 
Primary  Schools — Beautiful  Embroidery — The  great  Cemeterio  de 
Bethlem — The  Paseo  de  San  Pedro — "  A  Pleasant  Place  to  Visit  " — Inse- 
curity of  Life  and  Property — A  strange  State  of  Society — Indian  Em- 
broiderers— Indian  Statuary  Makers  of  Tonila — Cotton  Factories — The 
Theatre  and  Opera  House — Sunday  Bull-Fight — The  Programme — The 
Amphitheatre — A  Quiet  Bull  and  his  Fate — A  Cowardly  Bull — Enraged 
Audience — A  Game-fellow — Lively  Times — The  Bull-Riders — The  Bones 
of  the  Dead  Past — Farewell  Banquet  to  Mr.  Seward — Eloquent  Ad- 
dreses — The  Belles  of  Guadalajara,  ...  -  155 


CONTENTS.  13 

CHAPTER    VI. 

Departure  from  Guadalajara — Killing  Bandits — Ancient  Bridge — Falls  of 
the  Rio  Grande — Zapotlanejo — Results  of  Revolutions  and  Invasions — 
The  Bridge  of  Calderon,  where  Hidalgo  was  Defeated — How  the  Indian 
Patriots  Fought — Scene  of  one  of  Rojas'  Butcheries — The  Terror  of  Ja- 
lisco— Buying  out  an  Establishment — The  Grateful  Merchant — Tepotit- 
lan — Jalos — Great  Disproportion  of  the  Sexes — Venta  de  Los  Pagarros 
and  how  they  Kill  Robbers  There — Great  Central  Plateau  of  Mexico — 
St  John  of  the  Lakes — Its  great  Church,  and  What  I  Saw  in  It — A 
Scene  of  Bewildering  Beauty — Lagos  and  Its  Churches — A  Well-pre- 
served Roman,  and  My  Conclusions — Scenes  in  the  Market  Place — Pig- 
headed Mules — Arrival  at  Leon — The  City  and  the  People — Discounting 
a  Miracle — The  Feast  of  All-Saints — Pockets  Picked  and  Charity  Mis- 
construed— Narrow  Escape  from  Bandits — '"Tis  Distance  Lends  En- 
chantment " — The  Mines  of  La  Luz — A  Touching  and  Characteristic 
Scene — The  Foot-Hills  of  Guanajuato, 180 

CHAPTER    VII. 

Guanajuato— First  View  of  the  Triple  City — Marfil — The  Reservoirs — Se- 
nor  Rocha  and  His  Works — La  Presa — El  Buffa —  The  Silver  District  of 
Guanajuato — Statistics  of  the  State — Improvements — Schools  and  Col- 
leges— Gov.  Antillon — The  Mint  and  What  is  Done  There— Castle  of 
Grenaditas  and  its  History — The  Fate  of  Hidalgo— Street  Peddlers  and 
Their  Wares — How  the  Poor  People  Live — Curious  Scenes  at  the  Mark- 
ets— Heavy  Stealings — Severe  on  the  Clergy — College  Examination — 
Beneficiating  Silver  Ores — The  Great  Mine  of  San  Jose  de  Valenciano 
which  has  Produced  Eight  Hundred  Million.  Dollars — Ruin  and  Desola- 
tion— A  Deserted  Mining  Town — Immense  Subterranean  Works — The 
Great  Shaft — A  Game  Padre — Fearful  Murder — The  Gentlemen  of  the 
Road — Generous  Brigands — A  Foreign  Innovation — Mine  of  the  Ser- 
rano— In  the  Tunnel — Pyrotechnical  Display  of  Indescribable  Grand- 
eur— The  Lower  Depths — Sights  Under  Ground — How  People  Live  and 
Die  There — A  Speechless  Auctioneer,  • 211 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

Departure  from  Guanajuato — A  Sand-River — A  Beautiful  and  Fertile  Coun- 
try— Feudal  Castles  in  the  Nineteenth  Century — Salamanca — The  Late 
General  Doblado — The  Game  of  the  Country — Celaya — Interesting  Rel- 
ics— A  Mexican  Woolen  Factory — Artesian  Well — Fountains — Salva- 
tierra — A  Chance  for  Railway  Builders — Hacienda  of  Fifty  Thousand 
Acres — A  Poverty  Stricken  Population  in  the  Richest  Land  on  Earth — 
Abundance  of  Old  Churches — Great  Need  of  a  Continental  Railway — A 
Better  Time  Coming — Approach  to  the  Historic  City  of  QueretarOj  -  220 


14:  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    IX. 

Arrival  at  Queretaro — All  Quiet — How  the  Aqueduct  was  Built — The 
"  Hercules "  Cotton  Factory  and  its  Surroundings — First  Class  Opera- 
tives— The  Procession  of  the  Host — The  Englishman's  Mistake — That 
same  old  Mule  Story — Welcome  to  Mr.  Seward — Scene  of  the  Downfall 
of  the  Empire  of  Mexico — Popular  Opinion  of  Maximilian  and  Car- 
lotta — The  Siege  of  Queretaro — Position  of  the  Contending  Armies — 
Desperation  of  Maximilian's  Situation — His  Offer  to  Abandon  His  Army 
to  Secure  His  Own  Personal  Safety — An  Immediate  Assault  at  all  Points 
ordered  by  Escobedo — Was  Lopez  a  Traitor  ? — Last  Scene  in  the  Con- 
flict— How  Maximilian  Was  Taken — His  Hopes  for- Pardon — Conversa- 
tion between  Maximilian  and  Miramon — The  Scene  at  the  Cerro  De  Las 
Campanas — Execution  of  Maximilian,  Miramon  and  Mejia — Was  It 
Right,  or  Was  It  Not  ? — Visit  to  the  last  Scene  in  the  Tragedy  of  the 
Empire  of  Mexico— All  that  Is  Left  of  the  Empire,  -  -  -  -  238 

CHAPTER    X. 

From  Queretaro  to  Mexico — A  Magnificent  Agricultural  Country — San 
Juan  del  Rio— Old  Lava  Fields — The  Land  of  the  Maguey — The  Century 
Plant  and  what  it  Produces — Arroyo  Zarco — The  Rural  Guard — Tepeji 
Del  Rio — First  View  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico — The  Blind  Man  and  His 
Daughter — Lake  Zupango — Pulque  and  the  Pulqueries — Pig-Skins  and 
How  Procured — A  Startling  Resemblance — Reminiscence  of  White 
Pine— The  Story  of  Downton  and  Gerry — A  Family  Resemblance — Sad 
Results  of  Business  Reverses — The  Valley  of  Mexico — Reception  of  Mr. 
Seward  by  the  Cabinet  of  the  President — Welcome  to  the  Capital  as  the 
Nation's  Guest  by  the  Citizen  President,  Benito  Juarez — In  the  City  of 
Montezuma, 251 


CHAPTER    XI. 

Mexico  and  Its  Surroundings — Insecurity  of  the  Roads — Excursion  to  La 
Canada — Visit  to  Tacubaya — The  House  of  Gen.  Urega,  and  Who  I 
Found  There — The  American  Cemetery — A  Startling  Inscription — The 
Gate  of  the  Beam — The  Grand  Canal  and  Floating  Gardens  of  Mexico — 
Scene  of  Guatamozin's  Defeat — Church  and  Tree  of  the  Noche  Triste — 
The  San  Cosme  Aqueduct — An  Aztec  Idol — How  Police  Matters  are 
Managed — A  Polite  Thief — Popocatapetl  and  the  Woman  in  White— 
The  Survey  by  General  Ochoa — Interior  of  the  Crater — How  Cortez  Pro- 
cured  Powder — Dinner  with  Matias  Romero — Dinner  with  the  Family 
of  President  Juarez  at  Chapultepec — The  Palace  and  Its  Surroundings — 
Souvenirs  of  Maximilian — Poor  Carlotta — The  Feast  of  Belshazzar— 


CONTENTS.  15 

View  from  the  Verandah  of  Chapultepec — Molina  del  Key,  Contreras 
and  Churubusco — The  Alameda  of  Mexico,        ....  -  274 

CHAPTER    XII. 

Revelings  in  the  Halls  of  the  Montezumas — Dinner  at  the  House  of  Senor 
Lerdo — Toasts  in  Honor  of  President  Grant — Address  by  Mr.  Seward — 
Grand  Banquet  at  the  Palacio  Nacional — What  Was  Said  and  Done 
There — An  Era  of  Good  Feeling — Speech  by  President  Juarez — Speech 
by  U.  S.  Minister  Nelson — Mr.  Lerdo's  Response — Mr.  Seward's  Ad- 
dress— Altamerano  tke  Indian  Orator  and  His  Eloquence — The  Great 
Speech  of  the  Occasion — Other  Speeches  and  Toasts — Improvisional 
Poetry,  -  ....  .  .  .  -294 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

Excursion  up  the  Grand  Canal — A  Small  Water  Party — A  Jolly  Time  All 
Around — Picnic  at  an  Indian  Village — An  Exciting  Scene  on  the  Re- 
turn Trip — Free  Baths  and  no  End  of  Fun — Circus  in  an  Old  Convent — 
Opera  and  Theatre — Grand  Closing  Ball  and  Banquet — The  Most  Bril- 
liant Scene  Witnessed  in  America — Toasts  and  Speeches — The  Darien 
Ship-Canal — Don  Benito  Juarez — His  Personal  Appearance  and  Charac- 
teristics— Curious  Tradition  and  Coincidences — View  of  the  Valley  from 
Tacubaya,  308 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

Amid  the  Ruins  of  Empires — Behind  the  Scenes  after  the  Play — Plunder 
from  the  Palace  of  Chapultepec — The  "  Theatrical  Effects  "  Imported  by 
Maximilian — His  Carriages,  Pictures,  Plate,  and  Household  Wardrobe — 
The  Farce  He  Played  in — Court  Costumes  and  Imperial  Decorations — 
His  Gold  and  Silver  Plate — His  State  Carriage  and  Billiard  Tables — 
Maximilian's  Court  and  Empire — His  Fatal  Mistake — The  Archives  of 
Mexico — Maximilian's  Arrival  in  Mexico — The  Mask  Removed — The 
Black  Flag  Decree — The  Apologists  of  Maximilian — The  Records  of  the 
Empire  and  What  They  Prove — The  Victims  of  the  Black  Flag  Decree— 
Letters  written  by  Generals  Arteaga  and  Salazar  just  before  Their  Exe- 
cution— Remonstrance  of  the  Belgians — Aztec  Relics — The  Great  Sacri- 
fical  Stone,  etc. — A  City  Under  a  City — American  Origin  of  the  Aztecs — 
The  House  of  Hernando  Cortez — National  Monte  de  Piedad  of  Mexico — 
The  Model  Pawnbroker's  Shop  of  the  World — Five  Millions  Dollars 
Worth  of  Jewels  and  Plate  in  one  Room — The  Sword  of  General  Valen- 
cia and  Jewels  of  Isabella  the  Catholic,  on  Pawn — A  Commentary  on 
Human  Pride  and  Ambition, 341 


16  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER     XV. 

Religion  and  the  Arts — Our  Lady  of  Guadaloupe — How  the  Virgin  Ap- 
peared as  an  Indian  Woman  to  Juan  Diego — Story  of  the  Apparition 
and  the  Erection  of  the  Church  and  Chapel — Our  Lady  of  the  Reme- 
dies— The  Shrine  of  Guadaloupe,  and  the  great  Annual  Pilgrimage  to 
it — A  Visit  to  the  Church — Scenes  Outside  and  Inside — Sale  of  Books 
and  Charms — The  old  Bell-Makers — The  Offering  of  a  Spanish  Rover — 
The  Miraculous  Fountain — Boring  for  Oil — A  Religious  Picnic — Home 
of  the  Inquisition  and  Plaza  c'e  San  Domingo — The  Protestant  Missions 
in  Mexico — Protestantism — Statement  of  Rev.  H.  Chauncey  Riley  and 
His  Appeal  for  Funds  in  Aid  of  the  Work — The  National  School  of  Art 
and  Design — Pictures  Old  and  New — The  Art  Galleries — Department  of 
Coins  and  Medals — The  College  of  Mines — Rare  Collection  of  Minerals,  364 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

Social  Condition  and  Customs — The  Women  of  Mexico— Their  Character 
and  Social  Condition — Curious  Phases  of  Social  Life — The  Children  of 
Mexico — Trade  of  the  City — The  Beggars — The  Ancient  Customs  and 
Superstitions  of  Southern  Europe — The  Evil  Eye — Hospitable  Treat- 
ment of  Guests — Courtesy  Misconstrued — The  Story  of  Uncle  Freddy, 
alias  Washington  the  Second — Norton  the  First — The  Chinese  Prin- 
cess— How  Uncle  Freddy  Became  the  Guest  of  Mexico — Foreigners  in 
Mexico — Sharp  Business  Transactions — Devotion  of  the  Women  and 
Their  Sympathy  for  the  Unfortunate — How  Mr.  Fitch  was  Swindled — 
Honoring  the  Uniform — Mr.  Seward's  Fossil  Elephant  and  what  became 
of  it — Politeness  of  the  Servants — Census  Taking  in  Mexico,  -  -  391 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

The  Soldiers  of  Mexico — The  Invalid  Corps — The  Press — Literary  and 
Musical  Attainments — A  Persevering  Printer — Immigration — Public 
Improvements — The  Great  Need  of  Mexico — The  Political  Situation — 
Its  Hopeful  and  its  Discouraging  Aspects — Moral  Responsibility  of  the 
United  States — Advocates  of  Annexation — A  Plea  for  Mexico,  -  -  405 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Departure  from  the  Capital — By  Rail  to  Puebla — The  Pulque  Country — 
The  Pyramids  of  Tehuacan — Battle  Field  of  Otumba — The  Grandest 
Mountains  of  the  Continent — Orizaba,  Popocatapetl,  La  Muger  En 
Blanco  and  the  Malinchi — The  City  of  Puebla  by  Daylight  and  Moon- 
light— War's  Desolation — Siege  and  Capture  of  Puebla — Cinco  De 


CONTENTS.  IT 

Mayo — The  Pronunciametto  of  the  Sierra — Excursion  to  the  Ancient 
City  of  Tlaxcala — The  Castles  of  the  Four  great  Chiefs  of  the  Tlaxcalan 
Eepublic — The  Banner  of  Cortez  and  Ancient  Archives — The  Secret 
of  the  Gold  Placers— The  Virgin  of  Tlaxcala— The  Oldest  Church  on 
the  Continent — The  Miracle  of  Tlaxcala — Carrying  Dead-Heads — An 
Excursion  to  Cholula — Novel  and  Enthusiastic  Reception — The  Music  of 
Other  Days — Mr.  Seward's  Address  to  the  Cholulans — Time's  Reveng- 
es— Strange  Commingling  of  the  Past  and  Present — The  Great  Pyra- 
mid— A  New  Theory  Concerning  It — The  Cathedral  of  Puebla — Its 
Wonderful  Wealth  and  Beauty — Other  Objects  of  Interest — Buried 
Treasure— An  Imposition — Guatamozin's  Last  Will — Protestantism  in 
Puebla, 440 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

From  Puebla  to  Orizaba — Last  Diligence  Ride  in  Mexico — Amazoc  and  Its 
Iron- Workers — Eccentricities  of  the  People — Bargaining  for  Spurs — A 
Mexican  Bridge-Builder — An  Aztec  Tower  and  Sun-Dial — Daring  Feat 
of  a  Guerrilla — The  Home  of  the  Palm  and  the  Maguey — A  Colored 
Gentleman  in  Mexico — Buying  Cigars — The  Rural  Guard — A  Change  of 
Scene — Las  Cumbres — Wonderful  Scenery — Descent  into  the  Tierra  Ca- 
liente — Orizaba, 453 


CHAPTER    XX. 

A  City  with  a  Past  and  Future  but  No  Present — Grass-Grown  Streets — 
The  Indian  Packers  and  How  They  Take  in  Ballast — Battle-Scarred 
Churches — Outrages  Committed  by  Maximilian's  Troops — The  French 
Colonel — A  Woman's  Revenge — Curious  Christmas  Festivities — Playing 
the  Devil — A  Whole  Community  Gambling — Stoicism  of  the  Losers — 
The  Falls  of  the  Rincon  Grande — A  Tropical  Paradise — Hacienda  de  San 
Antonio  and  How  They  Make  Sugar — Coffee  Plantations — Resources  of 
Mexico — The  Great  Conducta — Its  Encampment  at  Orizaba  and  March  to 
Vera  Cruz — How  Silver  is  Carried  and  Handled  in  Mexico — The  Indian 
Specie-Counters  at  Vera  Cruz — Reminiscence  of  the  Mexican  War,  -  473 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

Resting  at  Orizaba — Ascent  of  the  Sierra  Borregas — Visit  to  an  Indian  Vil- 
lage— Departure  for  Vera  Cruz — Magnificent  Scenery  of  the  Chiquihuite 
Pass — The  Great  Railway  Bridge — Reception  at  Vera  Cruz — The  Spe- 
cialities of  the  City — Souvenirs  of  Past  Conflicts — The  Zapilotes — A 
Lively  Hotel — Lotteries — The  Chain-Gang — A  Private  Quarrel — Curious 

2 


18  CONTENTS. 

Statistics — An  Unpopular  Institution — Steamer  Arrival — A  Mixed  Cargo 
— Sunday  Amusements  in  Vera  Cruz — Bear  and  For  Bear — How  the 
California  Bear  Sampson  Entertained  the  Mexican  Bull — Amateur  Bull- 
Fighting — The  Amateur's  Story  of  His  Experiences — The  Castle  of  San 
Juan  de  Ulloa — What  it  was  and  What  it  is — A  Great  Work  in  Ruins — 
The  Dungeons  and  Political  Prisoners — The  Fate  of  General  Castillo — 
"  Who  Enters  Here  Leaves  Hope  Behind — Mementoes  of  the  Last  French 
Invasion — The  Perplexities  of  the  Author — The  Ranchero  and  His  Pig 
—The  Horse  and  the  ZapHotes— Which  Whipped  ?  ....  508 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

Mr.  Seward's  Farewell  Letters  to  the  Members  of  the  Juarez  Government 
and  Others — Voyage  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Yucatan — Sisal — Its  People, 
Trade  and  Specialities — The  Highest-Roofed  Theatre  on  Earth — Visitors 
from  Merida — Letter  from  the  Governor  of  Yucatan — Our  Last  View  of 
Mexico — Adiosf-  -  < 520 


A  GALA  TRIP  THROUGH  MEXICO. 


CHAPTER   I; 

FKOM  SAN  FKANCISCO  TO  COLIMA. 

LOBIOUSLY  beautiful  was  that  bright  morning 
of  the  30th  day  of  September,  1869,  when  I  reluc- 
tantly left  the  darkened  chamber  in  which  lay  the  mor- 
tal remains  of  a  brave  man,  and  true  champion  of  free- 
dom, my  friend  of  many  years,  Sefior  Don  Jose  A.  Godoy. 
the  Consul  of  Mexico,  who  had  fallen  dead  while 
attending  the  last  reception  of  Mr.  Seward  on  the  even- 
ing previous,  and  bidding  farewell  to  his  stricken 
family,  hurried  on  board  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Go's  magnificent  steamer  Golden  City,  which  was  lying 
at  her  berth  in  San  Francisco,  with  steam  up,  ready  to 
bear  us  away  to  the  tropics. 

Blue  and  clear  was  the  sky  above  us,  calm  and  mir- 
ror like  the  surface  of  the  broad  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
soft  as  velvet  in  all  their  outlines,  the  brown,  grey,  and 
mauve-tinted  mountains  which  surround  it,  when  seen 
through  the  purple  haze  of  Autumn  which  enveloped 
city  and  village,  hill,  mountain,  island,  fortress,  and 
inland  sea,  alike  in  its  tender  and  loving  embrace. 
When  I  come  again  from  beyond  the  snowy  mountains, 
and  the  shores  of  another  ocean,  a  change  will  have 
come  over  all  the  fair  scene,  and  hill  and  valley,  moun- 


20  GOOD-BYE   TO   SAN   FRANCISCO.      ; 

tain  and  plain,  will  rejoice  in  the  verdure  and  flowers 
of  the  spring-time.  "  Good-Bye  !"  "  Good-Bye !"  "  Good- 
Bye ! "  The  last  friendly  hand  is  shaken,  the  last 
affectionate  embrace  is  given,  and  the  plank  hauled  in, 
the  crash  of  the  great  gun  on  the  forward  deck  star- 
tles the  echoes  of  all  the  hills  around  the  bay,  the 
great  steamer  moves  slowly  away  from  the  wharf, 
swings  around  with  the  tide  in  the  harbor,  and  gliding 
swiftly  past  the  city  front,  the  shipping  from  many 


THE   GOLDEN   GATE. 


ports,  Alcatraz,  Point  San  Jose,  Fort  Point,  and  the 
Presidio  de  San  Francisco,  passes  through  the  Golden 
Gate,  and  heads  out  into  the  blue,  illimitable  Pacific. 

The  sea  is  calm,  and  the  sky  is  clear  t  and  everything 
promises  a  quiet,  pleasant  voyage.  Capt.  Lapidge,  is 
an  old  and  thorough  seaman,  Purser  Mattoon  under- 
stands making  everybody  comfortable,  and  is  disposed 
to  do  it  in  an  off-hand,  unobtrusive  way,  and  Dr.  Mil- 
ler, U.  S.  A.  is  on  hand  to  attend  to  all  who  need  his 
professional  services;  so  that  all  our  wants,  and  all 
contingencies  are  provided  for.  From  one  end  of  the 
steamer  to  the  other,  everything  goes  on  like  clock- 


VOYAGE   DOWN    THE    COAST   OF    CALIFORNIA.  21 

work, — no  noise,  no  loud  talking,  no  confusion  ;  Chinese 
sailors  spread  the  awnings  which  are  to  shelter  the 
passengers  from  the  sun  of  the  tropics,  and  Chinese 
waiters,  clean,  quiet,  and  orderly,  with  their  list-soled 
slippers,  move  quietly  about  the  cabin  and  state-rooms, 
keeping  everything  in  order,  and  seeing  that  no  wants 
of  the  passengers  are  left  unattended  to.  On  the 
whole,  I  think  it  must  be  conceded  that  John  is  the 
"  coming  man,"  and  take  him  all  in  all,  he  is  a  pretty 
good  fellow;  it  is  well  for  us  that  no  worse  man  is  to 
come  in  his  place. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day — Friday — we 
were  passing  the  islands  off  the  Santa  Barbara  Coast, 
having  made  two  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  during 
the  first  twenty-four  hours.  On  Saturday  we  were 
out  of  sight  of  land  all  day,  and  the  register  showed 
a,  progress  of  two  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles  for 
the  last  twenty-four  hours.  On  Sunday  afternoon  w& 
came  in  sight  of  the  large  barren  island  of  Cerros,  and 
its  outlying  rocks  and  lesser  islands,  and  the  whole  of 
the  afternoon  and  evening  skirted  along  the  treeless, 
red  mountain  shores  of  Mexican  Lower  California.  No 
living  thing  was  to  be  seen  on  these  verdureless  moun- 
tains. Sitting  back  far  enough  from  the  rail  to  hide  the 
blue  stretch  of  water,  you  might  fancy  yourself  upon  the 
Colorado  or  Mojave  Desert,  without  any  serious  stretch 
of  the  imagination ;  the  same  saffron-hued  horizon^ 
pale  blue  sky,  red,  brown,  and  yellow,  jagged,  naked 
mountains ;  the  same  eternal  silence  of  utter  desolation. 
"  Mother,"  said  a  little  prattling  child  upon  the  steam- 
er, "  mother,  do  anybody  live  in  that  land  ? "  "  No 
my  darling,  I  hope  not,"  was  the  earnest  reply.  God 
is  merciful,  and  I  trust  she  was  right. 


22  MEETING    OF    STEAMERS    AT   NIGHT. 

Sunday   service   at   sea,   of  the   Episcopal   Church, 
was  read  by  Capt.    Lapidge,  the  few  cabin  passengers 
all  joining  in  the  responses,  and  then  we  went  out  on 
deck  to  watch  the  changes  in  the  dreary,  barren  shore. 
A  single  little  sail   came   in  sight,    and   passed  near 
enough  for  us  to  see  that  the  craft  was  a  sloop,  of  per- 
haps, twenty  tons  burthen,  flying  no  flag,  and  carrying 
some   half  dozen  dark-hued   men — Italians,    or  other 
southern  Europeans — who  made  no  signals,  and  evi- 
dently did  not  care  to  court  attention  to  the  business 
in  which  they  were  engaged,  whatever  that  might  be ; 
there  is  a  little  smuggling  earned  on,  even  upon  this 
barren   coast. 

Monday  morning  found  us  plowing  through  a  glassy 
sea,  with  no  land,  no  sail,  no  bird  in  sight ;  only  the 
great,  glaring  sun  in  the  unclouded  sky,  and  the  deep, 
blue,  glittering  sea  below.  At  2  p.  M.  we  were  in  sight 
of  land  once  more — as  desolate  and  uninhabited  as  the 
last.  Had  any  one  told  us  that  day,  that  the  noble 
steamer  which  was  bearing  us  so  safely  and  swiftly 
over  the  sea,  would  in  less  than  six  months  more  be  ly- 
ing an  utter  wreck  on  that  terrible  shore,  with  what 
increased  interest  would  we  have  gazed  on  both ! 
Passing  Santa  Margarita  Island  and  Magdalena  Bay, 
at  sunset  we  were  well  toward  Cape  St.  Lucas,  or 
within  one  hundred  miles  thereof.  At  5  P.  M.  we  were 
a  thousand  miles  from  home. 

Ajt  8  P.  M.  a  light  was  seen  before  us ;  then  blue  and 
red  signal  lights  were  sent  up,  and  answered,  and  soon, 
out  of  the  darkness  emerged  the  great  hull  of  the 
steamship  Montana.  Both  steamers  stopped,  boats 
were  sent  off  to  exchange  the  latest  papers  from  either 
side  of  the  continent  and  carry  letters  and  messages 


A   DESOLATE   REGION.  23 

for  the  dear  ones  far  away.  Then  a  stream  of  flame 
shot  far  out  across  the  waters  from  either  steamer's 
deck,  the  loud  roar  of  the  signal  guns  filled  the  star- 
tled air,  and  the  two  great  black  masses  moved  away 
swiftly  into  the  darkness  again,  and  each  was  lost  to 
the  sight  of  those  on  board  the  other. 

I  know  of  no  scene  which  one  may  witness  in  all 
one's  life,  more  full  of  unwritten  poetry,  unenacted 
romance,  more  dreamily  suggestive  of  "  what  might 
have  been,"  than  this  meeting  and  parting  of  two 
great  steamers  on  the  pathless  sea.  Who  were  they 
who  crowded  the  decks  and  wonderingly  watched  us 
as  we  watched  them  ?  In  what  mysterious  way  were 
their  lives  linked  with  ours?  Were  there  any  there 
who  might  have  loved  us,  any  we  might  have  loved  ? 
What  stories  of  love  and  hatred,  and  all  the  thousand 
emotions  which  distract  the  human  mind,  and  affect 
for  good  or  ill  a  human  life,  were  spoiled,  when  the 
thousand  souls  which  those  two  steamers  bore,  came 
thus  near  together,  almost  within  touching  distance,  as 
it  were,  and  then  parted  again,  and  for  the  most  part 
forever?  Had  we  met  and  mingled,  how  the  whole 
story  of  this  life,  or  that,  might  have  been  affected,  and 
changed  it  may  be  for  all  time.  There  is  food  for  con- 
jecture and  speculation  without  end  in  all  this,  but  it 
is  only  vague  unsatisfying  speculation  after  all,  and  the 
questions  suggested  to  each  of  us,  must  remain  unan- 
swered to  all,  forever. 

Daybreak  on  Tuesday,  October  5th,  found  us  passing- 
Cape  St.  Lucas,  and  writhin  the  tropics.     Still  the  same 
dreary,  barren,  mountain  shore;  not  a  sign  of  human 
life  have  we  seen  while  skirting  along  the  Lower  Cali- 
fornia coast  for  nearly  a  thousand  miles ;  not  a  tree,  not 


24  CASTOK-OIL    WHALES. 

a  flower,  not  a  blade  of  grass,  no  living  thing  of  any 
kind — only  rocks  and  sand  and  loneliness,  eternal 
silence  and  utter  desolation.  All  the  settlements — and 
they  are  few  at  best — are  on  the  inner  or  Gulf  side  of 
the  peninsula,  and  completely  hidden  from  the  passing 
vessel  The  sun  poured  down  all  day  from  an  un- 
clouded sky,  and  no  breeze  ruffled  the  face  of  the  ocean, 
which  was  smooth  as  a  mirror,  save  where,  at  regular 
intervals,  the  long,  heavy  ground  swells  came  rolling  in 
from  the  south-westward,  and  pitched  and  tossed  about 
the  great  steamer  like  an  egg-shell. 
•  The  poet  says : 

"  There  is  no  crowd  however  slight 
But  one  cockney  is  there." 

We  had  ours.  He  stood  looking  over  the  rail,  eye-glass 
in  place,  watching  the  tumbling  of  two  great  monster 
blackfish,  which  rose  and  disappeared  like  porpoises. 
"Aw!  what  kind  of  a  whale  might  that  be?"  he 
demanded.  The  venerable  looking  McElroy,  who  repre- 
sents the  U.  S.  Custom-House  Department  on  board, 
promptly  replied,  "  That,  my  dear  friend,  is  the  Castor 
oil  whale, "  a  broad,  genial  smile  of  true  benevolence 
spreading  far  and  wide  over  his  fine  open  countenance. 
"  Haw,  yes ;  that's  what  I  thought.  We  'ave  hoceans 
on  'em  in  the  Hinglish  Channel!"  was  the  prompt 
return  of  the  true  son  of  old  Albion. 

As  the  day  died  out  and  the  sun  went  down  in  a 
blaze  of  glory,  all  hands  assembled  on  deck  to  witness 
a  sunset  in  the  tropics.  We  often  hear  the  remark, 
"  That  sky  is  unnatural ;  it  is  far  too  gaudy !"  as  we 
stand  .in  some  art  gallery  in  the  cold  North  before  a 
picture  in  which  the  artist  has  faithfully  labored  to 


A   TEOPICAL    SUNSET   AT    SEA.  25 

depict  the  glories  of  a  tropical  sunset.  The  paint  suffi- 
ciently brilliant  to  do  justice  to  the  scene  before  us  that 
evening  has  yet  to  be  made.  A  smooth  blue  sea  for  a 
base,  a  soft  blue  sky  above ;  along  the  western  horizon 
a  row  of  solid  purple  clouds  standing  up  like  jagged 
volcanic  rocks  from  the  bosom  of  the  ocean,  for  which, 
indeed,  they  would  have  been  unhesitatingly  taken  but 
for  the  constant  alteration  in  their  outlines.  Every 
moment  they 

"  Suffered  a  sea  change 
Into  something  new  and  strange." 

A  sea-lion,  a  land-lion,  a  sphynx,  a  castle,  a  walled  city, 
a  mighty  volcano,  an  Orizaba  or  a  Shasta,  grew  each  in 
turn*,  before  our  wondering  eyes.  Soon  the  whole  long 
line  was  cut  off  from  its  base,  as  if  by  a  knife,  and 
lifted  high  into  air,  and  from  the  bosom  of  the  sea  rose 
up  another,  almost  a  duplicate  of  the  first.  .  Then  the 
intervening  sky,  from  brilliant  orange,  took  on  the  hue 
of  the  inner  surface  of  the  sea-shell,  deepened  into  the 
brightest  vermilion,  which  glowed  like  a  flame,  and 
seemed  to  give  off  light  and  heat  of  its  own,  filling  all 
the  air.  As  the  shadow  of  evening  fell,  the  horizon 
grew  by  contrast  brighter  and  brighter,  the  clouds 
became  inky  black,  while  the  vermilion  sky  spread  out 
like'  a  valley  between  the  two  great  Sierras — mountains 
of  iron  in  a  -land  of  fire.  We  stood  like  the  wondering 
denizens  of  another  planet  in  the  hour  of  this  earth's 
last  agony,  and  saw  "  the  elements  dissolve  with  fervent 
heat,"  and  mountains  undermined  go  crashing  down 
into  the  hungry  sea  of  flame.  Then  the  black  curtain 
of  night  fell  over  all,  and,  almost  in  the  twinkling  of 
an  eye,  that  strange,  wild,  weird,  enchanting  scene, 
passed  like  a  dream  away. 


26  MANZANILLO. THE    GUEST    OF    MEXICO. 

Wednesday  morning  found  us  crossing  the  mouth  of 
the  Gulf  of  California,  or  the  Mar  de  Cwtez,  as  the 
Spaniards  termed  it,  rain  pouring  down,  the  sea  rough, 
and  many  on  board  sick,  the  writer  among  the  number. 
Accursed  be  the  memory  of  the  man  who  found  the 
ocean  first!  At  2  p.  M.,  we  passed  Cape  Corrientes. 
and  when  night  came  down  with  an  almost  impenetra- 
ble pall  of  darkness  on  the  heaving  waste  of  waters,  we 
were  within  seventy-five  miles  of  the  entrance  of  the 
Bay  of  Manzanillo. 

Slowly  the  great  steamer  crept  along  the  rock-bound, 
dangerous  coast,  feeling  her  way  cautiously  as  she  went, 
and  at  2  o'clock  on  Thursday  morning,  almost  a  week 
from  our  leaving  San  Francisco,  we  felt  that  we  were 
once  more  in  smooth  water,  and  the  loud  report  of  the 
steamer's  gun  conveyed  to  us  the  glad  tidings  that  we 
had  entered  the  harbor  of  Manzanillo,  and  finished  that 
portion  of  our  journey  comprised  in  the  voyage  down 
the  Pacific.  The  Custom-House  officials,  Governor  Cu- 
erva  and  staff,  and  other  officers  and  citizens,  came  on 
board  at  once  to  receive  Mr.  Seward,  congratulated  him 
on  his  arrival,  and  tendered  him  in  behalf  of  the  Re- 
public and  its  citizens,  the  hospitalities  of  the  country. 

At  day-break  our  baggage  was  sent  ashore  and  passed 
at  once,  unopened,  through  the  Custom  House,  and  the 
party  were  then  conveyed  to  the  beach  in  boats  carried 
through  the  surf  to  the  shore  on  men's  backs  to  the 
solid  land.  We  stood  at  last  on  the  soil  of  Mexico, 
saw  the  steamer  sail  away  through  the  storm  and  disap- 
pear in  the  distance,  then  turned  our  faces  eastward  and 
looked  about  upon  the  strange  land  to  which  we  had 
come,  and  the  strange  scenes  and  strange  faces  which 
surrounded  us. 


VIEW    FROM    THE    HAEBOE. 


Nothing  can  be  more  'thoroughly  tropical  and  attract- 
ive in  its  appearance  than  Manzanillo  as  seen  from  the 
harbor  at  this  season  of  the  year.  A  bay,  five  miles 
across  and  nearly  round  with  an  entrance  half  as  wide 


BEACH    AND  HOUSES  AT  MANZANILLO. 


as  the  bay  on  the  southern  side,  surrounded  by  high 
conical  hills,  covered  with  dense  foliaged  trees,  and  bright 
and  flowering  shrubs,  forms  the  harbor,  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  world  for  its  size.  The  town  itself  is  not 
much  to  speak  of.  Half-a-dozen  long  one-story  houses 
with  thick  adobe  walls,  white-washed,  with  large  court- 
yards, and  surrounded  by  outhouses,  all  with  broad 
verandahs,  are  used  as  general  store-houses,  offices  and 
dwellings,  by  the  proprietors  of  the  American  and  Eu- 


28  SIGHTS    AND    SCENES    ON    SHORE. 

ropeau  importing  houses,  while  they  have  their  princi- 
pal places  of  business  at  Colima,  Guadalajara,  and  other 
cities  in  the  interior.  A  dozen  or  two  tule  thatched 
huts  or  jacals  inhabited  by  natives,  and  scattered  irreg- 
ularly along  the  beach  and  on  the  hills  above,  constitute, 
with  the  barn-like  Custom-House,  or  " aduana  mart- 
tima"  the  remainder  of  the  town'j  the  whole  being  a 
mere  embarcadero  or  depot,  for  the  trade  of  the  interior. 

The  Americans  and  Europeans,  dress  and  live  much 
as  they  do  at  home  in  their  own  countries,  and  appear 
to  enjoy  life  pretty  well,  "  considering."  Society  must 
of  course  be  limited  and  select.  The  natives  live  a  la 
Mejicana,  wear  a  costume  consisting  of  a  white  cotton 
shirt  and  drawers,  and  broad-brimmed  sombrero.  Those 
in  good  circumstances  add  a  poncho,  or  Mexican  woolen 
blanket  of  fine  texture,  and  those  who  are  out  of  luck 
content  themselves  with  a  shirt  or  pair  of  drawers 
alone :  if  particularly  unblessed  by  fortune  they  con- 
trive to  get  along  without  either,  a  sombrero  and  breech- 
clout  of  coarse  cotton  answering  every  purpose  tolerably 
well.  They  are  excellent  boatmen,  and  generally  will- 
ing to  work,  if  employment  is  offered,  at  very  moderate 
wages.  The  women  dress  as  lightly  as  the  men,  and 
are  in  nowise  charry  of  their  personal  charms.  The 
people  greeted  our  party  with  cordiality,  but  manifested 
little  curiosity. 

The  Governor  and  his  friends  were  all  dressed  in 
European  costume,  and  though  generally  ignorant  of 
our  language  contrived  to  anticipate  eveiy  want,  and 
show  all  possible  hospitality.  The  merchants  took  pos- 
session of  our  party,  furnished  us  with  beds,  and  spread 
hospitable  tables  for  us.  Capital  cigars  and  cigarritos 
we  found  here  in  abundance,  and  extremely  cheap. 


CHEAP   LUXURIES.  29 

Thirty-two  bunches  of  cigarritos,  each  containing  thir- 
ty-six, are  sold  for  one  dollar,  or  about  two  per  cent,  of 
their  retail  price  in  New  York  or  San  Francisco.  Let 
it  rain !  Matches,  and  all  similar  trifles  made  in  the 
country,  s'ell  at  correspondingly  low  prices,  and  im- 
ported goods  are  generally  lower  than  in  the  United 
States,  the  duty  being  about  the  same,  and  rates 
nominal. 

From  Manzanillo  to  Colima,  about  ninety  miles,  there 
is  no  wagon-road  though  one  could  be  easily  built. 
Just  back  of  the  first  range  of  hills,  behind  the  town, 
there  is  a  fresh- water  lake,  thirty  miles  in  length,  which 
would  float  a  small  steamer.  By  this  lake,  people  are 
carried  by  native  canoes  toward  Colima  for  its  entire 
length,  and  from  its  farther  end  there  is  a  tolerable 
wagon-road  most  of  the  way  to  that  city. 

The  Government  some  time  ago  commenced  to  cut  a 
canal,  a  fourth  of  a  mile  in  length,  through  the  hill 
back  of  the  town,  to  connect  the  lake  with  the  harbor, 
and  make  it  possible  for  small  steamers  to  pass  through, 
thus  opening  up  the  country  to  commerce.  The  work 
was  about  half  finished  and  then  suspended  for  want 
of  funds,  about  thirty  thousand  dollars  having  been 
expended.  One  hundred  Chinamen  working  at  one 
dollar  per  day,  would  finish  the  work  in  sixty  days  at 
most.  The  merchants  seem  to  be  doing  well.  They 
say  that  the  duties  are  collected  regularly  and  fairly 
now,  the  old  custom  of  knocking  off  half  or  two-thirds 
of  the  amount  on  a  full  ca:r,go,  to  the  ruin  of  the  small- 
er importers,  having  been  abolished  by  the  Juarez 
administration.  They  have  not  been  subjected  to 
"  forced  loans  "  since  the  mushroom  "  Empire  "  collapsed, 
the  last  squeeze  having  been  made  in  January,  1866,  by 


30  BATTLE   OF    THE    SHARKS    AND   ALLIGATORS. 

the  French,  when  they  levied  $300,000  on  the  City  of 
Colima,  a  town  of  20,000  to  30,000  people,  but  were 
forced  to  decamp  by  the  arrival  of  the  Liberal  army 
under  Gen.  Ramon  Corona,  when  only  $100,000  had 
been  collected.  There  are  still  many  French  families 
residing  in  the  country,  and  considering  the  provoca- 
tions which  the  Mexicans  have  suffered,  they  are  re- 
markably well  treated  everywhere. 

The  verdure  on  the  hills  is  magnificent,  and  wonder- 
fully soothing  to  the  eye  grown  wearied  with  the  sight 
of  the  bare,  red  hills  of  Lower  California,  and  blinking 
under  the  rays  of  the  fierce  sun  of  the  tropics.  All  the 
freighting  between  vessels  and  the  shore,  is  done  by 
lighters;  there  is  only  one  miserable  old  rickety  dis- 
used wharf,  and  everything  has  to  be  carried  through 
the  surf  to  the  dry  land  on  men's  backs.  The  bay 
swarms  with  sharks,  and  the  lake  with  alligators.  Two 
years  ago  a  sudden  freshet  drove  the  alligators  out  of 
the  lake  into  the  bay,  and  a  fight,  long,  bloody,  and  ter- 
rible to  witness,  took  place  between  them  and  the 
^arks.  The  inhabitants  looked  on  with  calm  indiffer- 
ence— it  was  none  of  their  funeral  anyhow — and  finally 
saw  the  alligators  "  cleaned  out  bag  and  baggage "  by 
the  sharks.  This  fact  is  well  attested  by  numerous  eye- 
witnesses still  living  here.  On  the  beach  is  found  the 
machinery  for  a  large  sugar-mill,  imported  six  years  ago 
at  a  cost  of  $30,000,  and  now  lying  rusting  away  in  the 
sand.  The  want  of  a  wagon-road,  and  the  then  dis- 
turbed condition  of  the  country,  prevented  its  reaching 
the  plantation  for  which  it  was  intended,  near  Guada- 
lajara, and  may  now  be  left  there  for  as  many  years  to 
come,  before  the  owners  will  take  a  new  start  and  get 
it  up  into  the  interior,  and  put  it  in  operation. 


TKOPICAL   FRUITS, SUGAR   AND    COFFEE.  31 

The  forests  all  around  abound  with  game,  quail,  deer, 
wild  turkeys,  pheasants,  partridges  of  two  varieties, 
&c.,  <fec.  It  is  a  paradise  for  a  hunter,  and  the  waters 
of  the  bay  abound  with  fish  of  all  kinds. 

The  rain  came  pouring  down  in  torrents  for  two  days 
in  succession,  so  that  leaving  for  Colinia  was  out  of  the 
question.  Meantime  we  had  nothing  to  do  but  go 
around  and  see  the  sights,  such  as  they  are.  The  beau- 
tiful white  coffee  of  Colima,  which  is  superior  to  the 
best  Mocha,  and  sells  here  for  a  little  less  than  thirty- 
three  cents  per  pound,  was  carefully  examined.  Then 
the  delicate-flavored  and  almost  pure  white  <eugar  of 
Jalisco,  which  sells  at  ten  cents  per  pound,  was  duly 
sampled  and  pronounced  excellent  and  cheap.  Tropical 
fruits,  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  sweet  lemons,  pomegran- 
ates, melons,  bananas,  and  various  others,  nuts,  etc.,  are 
abundant  and  cheap.  In  the  court-yard  of  one  of  our 
hosts,  Mr.  Dieckman,  we  found  trees  loaded  with  or- 
anges and  zapotes,  and  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  a 
cocoa  palm  tree,  covered  with  nuts  of  all  sizes. 

We  found  cigars  equal  to  a  fair  Havana,  made  at 
Tepic,  selling  for  two  dollars  per  one  hundred,  neatly 
put  up  in  boxes.  The  temptation  to  smuggle  a  few  of 
them  into  San  Francisco,  if  we  had  been  going  that  way, 
would  have  been  almost  irresistible.  Half  a  million  of 
silver  dollars  came  down  here  from  Guadalajara,  in  Sep- 
tember, by  one  train  or  conducta,  and  were  sent  to  San 
Francisco  by  the  Golden  City,  which  steamer  brought 
them  immediately  back,  on  the  way  to  New  York  or 
Europe,  via  Panama.  They  were  on  board  when  we 
came  down  the  coast.  Even  the  poorest  people  appear  to 
have  some  small  change,  and  there  is  far  more  money 
in  the  country,  apparently,  than  our  people,  who  form 


32  LOST   TREASURE. 

their  opinion  from  letters  written  for  publication  abroad 
by  European  correspondents  residing  here,  generally 
suppose. 

A  few  years  ago  a  vessel  was  loading  Mexican  dol- 
lars in  the  harbor  of  Manzanillo,  when  a  box  or  two 
fell  overboard,  and  the  divers  failed  to  recover  them. 
The  boxes  at  last  rotted  and  went  to  pieces,  and  since 
that,  from  time  to  time,  the  waves  during  great  storms 
wash  the  dollars  ashore.  When  we  arrived  the  waves 
had  been  immense,  and  the  shore  all  along  the  front  of 
the  town,  was  lined  with  the  poorer  natives,  hunting 
for  the  precious  pesos.  As  these  men  earn  their  living 
by  hunting,  and  loading  and  unloading  vessels,  having 
perhaps  two  or  three  days  work  in  a  month,  a  dollar  is 
quite  a  fortune  to  them,  and  the  finding  of  two  or  three 
is  an  event  of  their  lives.  The  dollars  are  stained  to 
an  inky  blackness  by  long  immersion  in  the  sea-water, 
but  are  still  worth  their  face,  and  no  discount  is  charged 
on  them  by  the  merchants,  who  get  them  all  in  the  end. 
The  people  are  small  eaters  in  this  hot  climate,  and 
beef  is  ten  cents  per  pound,  and  beans  fifteen  cents, 
while  fish  can  be  obtained  for  the  taking  from  the  wa- 
ter, and  fruit  costs  next  to  nothing ;  so  that  every  time 
a  native  finds  one  of  these  dollars,  he  has  secured  the 
means  of  a  comfortable  living  for  a  month,  and  may 
consider  himself  a  gentleman  for  that'  time  if  he  is  of 
economical  habits,  and  not  given  to  gambling. 

We  heard  much  apparently  well  grounded  complaint 
about  the  management  of  postal  matters  in  this  part  of 
the  Republic.  The  (rovernment  charges  twenty-five 
cents  on  each  letter,  but,  singularly  enough,  while  there 
are  no  Government  mails  between  here  and  the  interior? 
there  is  a  Post-Office,  and  the  postage  is  rigidly  exacted. 


A  PROFITABLE  POSTAL  SYSTEM.  33 

Thus  a  merchant  makes  up  his  correspondence  and  takes 
his  letters  to  the  Post- Office,  where  he  pays  twenty-five 
cents  on  each.  There  are  stamps  provided  for  by  law, 
but  none  are  for  sale  here,  and  the  letters  receive  no 
mark  from  the  Postmaster  to  show  that  the  postage  has 
been  paid.  Then  the  merchant  dispatches  a  mail  car- 
rier to  Colima,  and  pays  him  ten  dollars  for  carrying  the 
same  batch  of  letters  on  which  he  has  just  paid  the 
Government  twenty-five  cents  each.  At  Colima  the 
letters  are  delivered  to  the  Post-Office,  and  twenty-five 
cents  each  collected  again  for  simply  passing  them  out 
over  the  counter,  as  there  is  nothing  to  show  that 
they  have  paid  the  legal  dues.  Letters  come  from  Maz- 
atlan  by  steamers,  prepaid,  and  twenty-five  cents  each 
is  collected  on  them  on  their  arrival  here.  Then  they 
are  sent  to  Colima  as  stated,  and  pay  again  before  start- 
ing, and  also  on  their  arrival  there,  or  three  times  in 
all.  Letters  from  San  Francisco,  by  steamer,  for  per- 
sons here,  must  be  delivered  to  the  Postmaster  by  the 
purser  on  his  arrival,  and  twenty-five  cents  each  is 
charged  at  once  before  they  can  go  into  the  hands  of 
the  persons  to  whom  they  are  directed.  If  the  entire 
postal  system,  of  the  country  was  thus  managed,  the 
Post-Office  Department  ought  to  be  a  paying  institution, 
but  I  was  told  that  the  abuses  complained  of  are  excep- 
tional and  local,  and  that  the  Federal  Government  does 
not  reap  the  benefit  of  the  imposition.  However,  the 
tax  is  a  heavy  one  on  the  merchants.  I  was  told  that 
one  house  having  a  depot  here  and  a  large  store  at  Co- 
lima, paid  last  year  $6,000  in  postage  and  courier 
charges. 

Despite  the  incessant  rains,  our  time  in  Manzanillo 

passed  not  unpleasantly  away,  we  were  elegantly  lodged, 
o 


34  VISITORS    FBOM    COLIMA. 

and  fed,  and  cared  for  kindly  every  way.  Gov.  Cueva, 
SeSor  Rendon,  the  Administrador  of  Customs,  and  Mr. 
Merrill,  the  American  Consul  from  Colima,  all  of  whom 
had  come  down  from  Colima  to  meet  Mr.  Seward,  staid 
with  us  until  the  storm  at  last  cleared  away  on  the 
night  of  the  8th  of  October,  and  we  made  ready  for 
departure. 

Gov.  Cueva  is  a  tall,  dark,  finely-formed,  and  intelli- 
gent young  man.     He  is  a  physician  by  profession,  but 
has  been  "  acting  Governor  "  for  some  years,  and  appears 
to  be  quite  popular.     He  has  taken  a  great  interest  in 
the  establishment  of  free  schools  in  Colima  and  other 
towns  in  the  State,  and  a  decided  advance  has  been 
made  within  the  last  two  years  in  general  education. 
He  appears  to  be  fully  aware  of  the  importance  of  pub- 
lic improvements  and  the  development  of  the  great  nat- 
ural  resources   of  the   country.     This  little  State  of 
Colima — The  smallest,  or  one  of  the  smallest  in  the 
Union — contains  a   population  of  sixty  thousand,  of 
which  three-fifths  are  pure  Indian  blood,  and  two-thirds 
of  the  remainder  have  but  little  European  blood,  a  few 
only   being    of    pure    Castilian   descent.      Singularly 
enough,  this  Indian  element  appears  to  be  the  most 
liberty-loving  and  progressive  portion  of  the  popula- 
tion, and  foreigners  generally  concede  that  it  is  less 
corruptible  and  changeable  than  the  pure  European. 
Whatever  may  be  its  faults,  bull-dog  tenacity,  courage, 
and  love  of  country  are  among  its  virtues  and  most 
hopeful  characteristics.     It  has  capacities  which,  devel- 
oped by  education,  may  yet  prove  the  salvation  of  this 
beautiful  country. 

Senor   Luis    Rendon,  a  small,  spare,  sharp-featured, 
dark-hued  man,  appears  to  be  a  thorough  gentleman. 


PRODUCTIONS    OF   MANZANILLO. 


35 


He   lias  effected   great  reforms  in  the  .Custom  House 

and  is  called  a  "  a  square  man  "  by  the  importing  mer- 

chants who,  however,  dis- 

like him  because  he  exacts 

full  and  complete    obedi- 

ence to  the  law,  which  has 

put  a  stop  to  the  old  sys- 

tem of  reductions  on  im- 

ports, in  favor  of  the  great 

merchants,  to  the  ruin  of 

the    small   ones.      Under 

his  administration,  Manza- 

nillo,    from   yielding   five 

hundred  thousand  dollars 


SE*OK  LUIS 

per  annum  in  revenue  to  the  Federal  Government, 
has  come  to  yield  $1,500,000.  and  all  without  a  sin- 
gle wagon-road  into  the  interior  in  any  direction.  When 
roads  already  commenced  are  finished,  a  wharf  built,  and 
some  other  improvements  made,  this  place  will  grow  into 
a  thriving  port,  and  have  a  grand  commerce. 

Give  Mexico  ten  years  of  uninterrupted  peace,  and 
Manzanillo,  with  its  natural  advantages  and  the  expedi- 
ture  of  a  small  sum  for  improvements,  would  become  an 
important  seaport.  The  town  is  somewhat  unhealthy 
because  the  lake  gets  low  and  breeds  fever  and  ague 
during  the  dry  season,  but  the  Europeans  and  Ameri- 
cans appear  to  suffer  but  little,  while  the  natives,  being 
poorly  housed  and  exposed  to  all  sorts  of  weather, 
are  sick  half  of  the  time.  We  saw  many  of  them  lying 
around  under  the  verandah,  apparently  half  dead  with 
ague.  Everything  here  comes  down  from  the  interior 
on  mule-back,  and  it  takes  six  days  for  a  train  to  make 
the  ninety  miles  from  Colima  to  Manzanillo.  Some 


36  EMBARKATION  AND  DEPARTURE. 

time  this  will  be  all  different.  Already,  a  telegraph 
line  is  in  operation  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  this 
place,  and  Mr.  Seward  was  met  by  -congratulatory  dis- 
patches direct  from  President  Juarez  and  Cabinet. 
Stage-coaches  and  steamboats  will  come  next,  and  then 
railroads  and  a  higher  civilization. 

After  two  days'  waiting  at  Mahzanillo  the  rain  sud- 
denly ceased,  and  a  clear  sunset  gave  promise  of  fine 
weather  to  follow.  At  day-break  on  the  9th  of  Octo- 
ber, all  Manzanillo  was  astir,  and  our  party  prepared 
to  leave  for  Colima.  By  arrangement,  the  entire  com- 
pany, "  bag  and  baggage, "  was  to  be  transported  by 
boats  up  the  Laguna  de  Cayutlan  thirty  miles,  then 
across  the  divide  of  three  leagues,  between  the  end  of 
the  lake  and  the  Rio  Maria,  in  Concord  coaches  sent 
down  by  Don  Juan  Firmin  Huarte,  the  hospitable  pro- 
prietor of  the  immense  estate  formerly  known  as  "  Los 
Chinos, "  now  as  "  La  Calera, "  and  thence  over  the  river 
and  the  succeeding  three  leagues  to  that  place,  as  could 
be  best  arranged  under  the  circumstances. 

As  the  party  left  the  house  and  walked  out  through 
the  straggling,  crooked  street,  lined  with  low,  thatched 
huts  half  of  which  were  flooded  from  the  rains  and 
vacated  by  the  owners,  the  people  stood  hats  in 
hands  all  along  the  way,  to  give  Mr.  Seward  a  kindly 
parting  salutation.  All  was  bustle  and  confusion  at  the 
landing.  Men  were  wading  back  and  forth  in  the 
muddy  water,  carrying  packages,  or  altering  and  arranir- 
ing  the  boats.  Five  light,  strong  boats,  each  painted 
white,  red  and  green — the  national  colors  of  Mexico- 
had  been  provided.  Two  boats  carried  the  "Seward 
Party, "  Gov.  Cueva  and  Senor  Re  ndon ;  a  third  the  pro- 
miscuous escort,  and  the  fourth  and  fifth  were  loaded 
down  with  our  luggage,  provisions,  etc.,  etc. 


PASSAGE  UP  THE  LAGUNA  DE  CAYUTLAN.  37 

Despite  the  many  delays  all  the  party  was  safely  on 
board  the  boats  just  after  sunrise.  The  air  was  still 
and  the  sky  clear,  and  in  a  short  time  the  heat  became 
almost  insupportable.  Then,  little  black-eyed  Mexican 
boys,  spry  and  agile  as  cats,  crept  around  each  boat 
hanging  out  gaily  striped  awnings,  and  rich  colored  blan- 
kets, to  shield  us  from  the  blazing  rays  of  the  tropic  sun, 
and  we  lay  down  in  the  boats,  at  full  length,  and  watch- 
ed with  a  wondering  interest,  the  shifting  of  the  glori- 
ous panorama  before  us.  The  great  mountain  chain, 
which  forms  a  semi-circle  around  the  inland  side  of  the 
Laguna  de  Cayutlan,  is  clothed  in  magnificent  vegeta- 
tion, from  the  waters  edge  to  its  summit ;  all  the  wealth 
of  the  tropics  is  lavished  on  the  picture.  The  long  lines 
of  palm  trees  on  the  heights,  cutting  sharply  against  the 
blue  sky,  seem  to  have  been  set  there  by  some  cunning 
hand,  to  make  it  perfect  in  all  its  artistic  details. 

The  Laguna  de  Cayutlan  runs  nearly  east  and  west 
for  thirty  miles,  parallel  with  and  but  a  short  distance 
from  the  sea,  and  at  this  season  is  from  four  to  ten  feet 
in  depth,  and  one  to  six  miles  wide.  It  would  float  a 
steamer  the  year  round. 

Within  the  charmed  circle  in  which  we  floated,  all 
was  peaceful  and  still ;  there  was  hardly  breeze  enough 
to  puff  out  the  sails  which  our  boatmen  spread  to  light- 
en their  labors,  and  the  surface  of  the  Laguna  was  like 
glass,  while  at  the  same  time  we  could  hear  the  hollow 
booming  of  the  ocean  waves,  and  the  dull  incessant  roar 
of  the  surf,  breaking  on  the  beach  just  beyond  the  line 
of  palm-  trees,  which  bounded  the  view  upon  the  south. 

Our  rowers,  five  in  each  boat,  nearly  naked,  or  en- 
tirely so,  worked  well.  I  never  saw  better  rowers. 
They  appeared  to  be  all  of  pure  Indian  blood — the 


38  WILD    FLOWERS,    PARROTS    AND    ALLIGATORS. 

working  element  of  the  country.  Their  oars  all  struck 
the  water  at  once,  and  they  sent  the  boats  through  the 
water  at  a  high  speed.  Had  they  been  selected  instead 
of  the  Harvard  crew,  to  row  against  the  Oxfords,  I 
would  have  staked  my  money  on  the  American  side, 
if  I  chanced  to  have  any  to  risk. 

On  our  arrival  at  Manzanillo  from  the  steamer,  at  the 
house  of  Mr.  Bartling,  who  most  hospitably  entertained 
our  party  during  our  stay,  we  were  provided  with  six 
excellent  camp  bedsteads,  with  beautiful  gilded  frames 
and  canopies,  lace  mosquito  bars,  and  lace-covered  pil- 
lows, rich  crimson  counterpanes,  and  fine  soft  matresses 
complete  in  every  detail  While  going  up  the  lake  we 
noticed,  among  the  baggage,  six  neatly  wrapped  pack- 
ages covered  with  matting  and  securely  corded,  and 
learned  with  surprise  that  each  contained  one  of  these 
beds  packed  for  transportation,  and  that  they  had  been 
purchased  expressly  for  us  at  Colima,  and  were  to  be 
transported  for  our  especial  use  from  one  side  of  Mexico 
to  the  other. 

At  one  point  we  landed  on  the  rocky  shore  of  the 
Laguna,  and  gathered  beautiful  wild  flowers,  but  the 
chaparral  was  so  matted  together  with  tangled  vines 
and  parasitic  and  climbing  plants,  that  we  could  not 
travel  ten  rods  in  any  direction,  and 'after  vainly  en- 
deavoring to  get  a  shot  at  the  flocks  of  gaudy  parrots 
which  filled  the  larger  trees,  we  returned  to  the  Laguna 
and  were  carried  pick-a-back,  to  the  boats  again.  The 
alligators,  who  fill  the  Laguna,  are  very  cautious  and 
shy,  and  it  was  only  now  and  then  that  one  would  show 
the  point  of  his  dark  snout  above  the  surface.  A  vol- 
ley of  ill-directed  pistol  balls  would  send  him  down  in 
an  instant  every  time.  On  the  whole  I  don't  think  the 


SCENE    ON    THE    BEACH DEJECTED    MULES.  39 

alligator  crop  of  Cayutlan,  will  be  to  any  serious  extent 
the  smaller  next  season,  on  account  of  our  visit. 

When  we  had  gone  about  twelve  miles  up  the  lake, 
the  flotilla  came  to  a  halt  opposite  a  beautiful  rocky 
island  covered  with  giant  cacti.  All  the  boats  came 
together,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  entire  party  was  en- 
gaged in  discussing,  with  keen  relish,  a  bountiful  lunch. 
When  the  repast  was  finished,  Gov.  Cueva  proposed,  as 
a  sentiment,  "  Welcome  to  our  distinguished  guest ; 
peace,  and  a  better  understanding,  and  more  perfect 
friendly  relation  between  the  people  and  Government 
of  the  great  Republic  of  the  United  States,  and  the 
people  and  Government  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico." 
The  toast  was  drank  with  the  honors,  and  duly  re- 
sponded to,  and  the  flotilla  again  moved  up  the  Laguna. 

At  2  p.  M.,  we  reached  the  landing  at  the  eastern  end 
of  the  lake,  and  found  two  light,  Concord  spring  coaches, 
sent  down  from  the  interior  for  our  use,  and  a  multi- 
tude of  attendants  waiting  to  receive  us.  They  had  a 
full  pack-train  of  mules  ready  to  carry  the  baggage  up 
to  Colima,  but  the  piles  on  piles  of  plunder  which  came 
on  shore  from  our  boats  until  the  whole  beach  was 
strewn  with  it,  startled  them  not  a  little,  and  made  some 
of  the  mules  drop  their  ears  in  utter  dejection.  The 
mules  in  common  use  all  over  the  country  are  the  small- 
est I  have  ever  seen.  Some  of  them  do  not  weigh 
more  than  two  hundred  pounds,  and  it  is  a  large  sized 
one  which  will  weigh  three  hundred  and  fifty  or  four 
hundred  pounds :  but  like  the  little  horses  of  the  coun- 
try, they  are  "lightning"  when  it  comes  to  traveling  or 
pulling. 

Three  leagues — about  seven  and  a  half  or  at  most  eight 
English  miles — across  a  flat  sandy  country,  entirely  cov- 


40  CROSSING    THE    RIO    DE    SANTA    MARIA. 

ered  with  impenetrable  thickets  of  small  thorny  shrubs, 
trees  of  the  acacia  species,  cacti,  creeping  plants,  and 
climbing  vines,  over  a  road  heavy  with  the  rains,  and 
poor  at  best,  brought  us  to  the  Rio  de  Santa  Maria,  a 
small  stream  in  ordinary  times,  but  now  a  tremendous 
torrent,  thick  with  mud.  It  looked  wholly  impassable. 
On  the  opposite  shore  there  is  a  village  of  palm-thatched 
bamboo  huts,  inhabited,  with  one  exception,  by  families 
of  the  civilized  and  Christian  Indians  of  the  country— 
once  peons,  but  now  all  enfranchised.  The  rocky  banks 
were  lined  with  dark-skinned  men  in  loose,  white  cotton 
drawers  and  shirts,  immense  broad-brimmed  hats,  and 
with  rawhide  sandals  on  their  feet.  We  signaled  the 
boats  on  the  opposite  shore,  and  a  party  of  the  natives 
immediately  put  off  into  the  raging  torrent,  some 
wading  as  far  as  possible  and  pulling  the  boat  by  main 
strength,  others  handling  the  paddles. 

It  looked  like  certain  death,  to  attempt  the  passage 
of  the  torrent  in  those  little  boats,  but  we  could  not 
stay  there  for  it  to  fall,  and  cross  we  must,  or  drown  in 
the  attempt.  I  essayed  the  passage  first,  and  though 
we  went  bounding  up  and  down  like  an  india  rubber 
ball,  and  took  water  several  times,  we  made  t"he  riffle 
in  safety,  and  soon  after,  Mr.  Seward  and  the  entire 
party  were  across,  and  proceeded  to  the  house  of  the 
great  landholder^  of  the  vicinity,  Don  Ignacio  Largos. 
His  house  is  of  bamboo  or  cane,  like  the  others,  and 
has  a  mud  floor,  but  everything  is  as  clean  and  neat  as 
the  parlor  of  the  most  thrifty  New  England  housewife, 
and  his  young  wife — a  comely  woman  of  the  Spanish 
blood  and  type — made  us  at  home  at  once.  N 

Don  Ignacio,  a  man  of  about  seventy  years,  but  stout, 
and  well  preserved,  with  hardly  a  gray  hair  in  his  head, 


A    CHANCE   FOK    SPECULATION.  41 

came  in  to  inform  Mr.  Seward,  that  the  stream  was  too 
high  to  allow  of  the  passage  of  the  stages,  but  that 
during  the  night  it  would  subside.     They  would  then 
put  the  wheels  of  one  side  of  the  stage  in  one  boat, 
and  those  of  the  other  side  in  a  second,  and  'so  row  the 
cumbersome  vehicles  across.     Meantime,  he  and  all  he 
had  was  "  at  His  Excellency's  service."     He  had  two 
coaches  in  tolerable  repair,  which  he  was  ready  to  hitch 
up  to  convey  us  on  three  leagues  more  to  the  "  Hacienda 
Calera,"  the  residence   of   Don  Juan  Firmin  Huarte, 
where  we  were  to  pass  the  night.     The  old  gentleman 
told  us  that  he  had  about  four  thousand  five  hundred 
acres  of  the  best  sugar,  cotton,  and  Indian  corn  land  in 
America,   and,  he   did   not  know  exactly  how  many, 
though  quite  a  number  of  square  miles  of  good  pasture 
lands  in  this  rancho,  which  he  would  sell  me  [some  one 
had  wickedly  represented  me  as  the  rich  man  tof  the 
party]  for  $8,000  in  gold.     He  had  a  few  thousand  cat- 
tle, all  good  stock,  though  diminutive,  which  he  would 
also  dispose  of  cheap.     There  might  be  2,000  or  10,000, 
but  he  would  not  be  particular  about  a  few  hundred 
head   any  way.     He  wanted   to  move  upon  a  larger 
rancho  somewhere  up  in  the  interior.     I  agreed  to  think 
it  over  until  I  came  back,  and  give  him  my  answer 
then.     I  trust  that  he  will  not  get  tired  out,  and  die 
waiting  to  hear  from  me. 

Dinner,  consisting  of  a  variety  of  meats,  vegetables, 
fruits,  sweetmeats,  and  wines,  was  placed  on  the  table, 
and  I  take  occasion  to  say  that  a  cleaner,  better  cooked, 
and  better  served  dinner  could  not  be  obtained  at  any 
hotel  in  the  United  States,  though  there  was  not  a  sign 
of  a  stove,  carpet,  or  even  floor  about  the  premises. 
At  sunset,  we  saw  our  baggage  train  of  pack  mules 


42  OLD    BATTLE    GROUND    OF   SAN    BARTOLO. 

arrive  on  the  other  shore,  and  the  boats  commence  to 
take  it  over.  We  started  at  night-fall  for  La  Calera, 
three  leagues  further  on,  and  were  whirled  along  over 
the  heavy  road  at  good  speed,  by  the  smart  little  mules 
furnished  us  by  Don  Ignacio.  Up  to  this  point  the 
country,  except  for  the  densely  wooded  mountains  in 
the  background,  might  have  been  mistaken  for  the 
Bayou  Teche  country  in  Louisiana,  though  the  vegeta- 
tion was  more  abundant,  and  the  soil  richer  and  softer— 
a  fine  country  for  cultivation.  Now,  we  crossed  the 
,  Llano  de  San  Bartolo,  a  more  open  country,  with  occa- 
sional Indian  villages.  On  this  plain,  the  Spaniards 
were  defeated  with  great  loss,  and  driven  back  to  their 
ships,  in  the  time  of  the  conquest  by  Cortez ;  but  a  sec- 
ond battle  resulted  in  their  favor,  and  the  Indian  power 
in  Colima  was  forever  broken.  Passing  in  the  moon- 
light .an  immense  hacienda,  with  solid  stone  walls  on 
all  sides,  now  partially  deserted,  we  arrived  at  La  Ca- 
lera at  10  o'clock,  and  were  warmly  welcomed. 

When  we  arose  at  day-break  on  Sunday  and  walked 
out  upon  the  broad  verandah,  which  surrounds  the 
great  house  at  the  hacienda  of  Don  Juan  Firmin 
Huarte,  the  scene  before  us  was  entrancingly  beautiful. 
The  estate  occupies  a  broad  valley,  through  which  runs 
a  small  river,  and  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  moun- 
tains as  high  as  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Coast  Range 
of  California  These  mountains  are  covered  from  base 
to  summit  with  low  timber,  as  thick  as  it  can  stand  on 
the  ground,  and  all  covered  with  a  brilliant  green 
foliage,  save  where  the  beautiful  primavera,  which  bears 
great  loads  of  white,  red,  pink,  and  blue  blossoms,  gives 
variety  to  the  scene.  This  wood  is  all  crooked,  and 
mainly  worthless  for  building  purposes,  though  the 


THE  GEE  AT  HACIENDA  DE  LA  CALEB  A.        43 

amount  of  fuel  on  an  acre  is  enormous  The  valley 
itself  is  one  grand  garden,  run  to  wild.  In  one  place, 
rows  of  tall  graceful  cocoa  palm-trees,  loaded  with  fruit 
in  all  stages  of  growth,  lift  their  feathery  heads  in  air, 
and  call  up  visions  of  the  gardens  of  Damascus.  Then 
wide  fields  of  sugar-cane,  ripe,  and  ready  for  cutting, 
then  corn-fields,  where  the  corn  is  equal  in  size  to  that 
of  Illinois,  rice-fields,  and  great  patches  of  banana 
plants,  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  height,  each  leaf  being 
of  the  size  of  a  counterpane  on  a  double  bed  at  home. 

Turning  our  eyes  from  this  scene  to  that  more  imme- 
diately at  hand,  we  saw  life  in  the  tropics  in  all  its  lazy 
luxuriousness.  Upon  this  grand  hacienda,  which  is 
exactly  as  large  as  the  District  of  Columbia,  reside 
three  hundred  to  four  hundred  natives  of  pure,  or 
nearly  pure,  Indian  blood,  who  are  employed  as  labor- 
ers in  the  fields  and  around  the  mills.  The  men  receive 
thirty-seven  and-a-half  cents  per  day,  and  board  them- 
selves. They  are  not  very  cheap  laborers  even  at  that 
price.  For  their  accommodation,  a  meat-market  is  kept 
under  a  large  open  shed  in  front  of  the  "casa  grande" 
This  market  is  supplied  with  beef  from  cattle  killed 
during  the  night — we  had  been  disturbed  in  our  sleep 
by  the  bellowing  of  the  poor  beasts — and  the  market 
was  in  full  operation  when  we  saw  it  at  day-break. 
The  women  by  dozens,  tall,  slender,  and  dark,  dressed 
in  light-colored  cotton  gowns,  without  hoops,  and  bare- 
footed, with  black  rebosas  wrapped  around  their  shoul- 
ders and  heads,  half  hiding  their  faces,  were  buying  the 
day's  supply  of  meat  for  the  family,  while  the  men 
lounged  about  in  every  variety  of  dilapidated  garments, 
smoking  cigarritos.  A  few  wore  brilliant-hued  sera/pes 
closely  wrapped  around  them,  or  thrown  with  negligent 


44  AN    IMMENSE    SUGAR-HOUSE. 

grace  over  one  shoulder.  This  hacienda  has  the  name 
of  being  very  unhealthy,  and  many  of  the  men  appeared 
ill  from  malarious  diseases.  The  meat  was  cut  in  irreg- 
ular pieces  with  rude  knives  and  axes,  and  sold  at  from 
six  and  a  half,  to  ten  cents  per  pound.  Each  purchaser 
took  but  a  small  piece,  about  enough  for  a  "  square 
meal "  for  three  persons  in  a  cbld  climate.  The  fat  was 
being  tried  out  for  candles  in  a  large  kettle  in  front  of 
the  market,  and  the  offal  was  lying  in  a  corner.  Swarms 
of  long-nosed  wolfish-looking  dogs  hung  around,  snap- 
ping up  every  scrap  of  meat  left  within  reach,  or  thrown 
to  them. 

Beyond  the  market  stands  an  immense  half-finished 
sugar-house,  and  all  around  the  place  was  scattered  ma- 
chinery therefor,  hardly  two  pieces,  belonging  together, 
being  within  hearing  distance  of  each  other.  The  walls 
were  of  brick  made  on  the  place  and  poorly  laid  in 
cement.  The  roof  is  to  be  of  tiles,  but  it  is  not  yet 
finished.  A  vat  for  water,  intended  to  hold  at  least 
two  million  gallons,  built  of  brick  and  cemented,  is 
built  along- side.  The  three  great  boilers  for  this  mill 
were  being  towed  through  the  Laguna  of  Cayutlan— 
having  been  closed  and  cemented  water-tight  to  insure 
their  floating — as  we  came  up  on  the  previous  day. 
The  mill  cannot  be  finished  in  less  -than  six  months,  and 
meantime  a  superb  crop  of  cane  goes  to  waste.  Oppo- 
site the  sugar-mill  is  a  huge  building  containing  a  rice 
mill,  saw-mill,  &c.  The  sugar  machinery  and  distilling 
apparatus  are  from  Hamburg,  the  steam-engines  and 
boilers  from  England,  and  the  rice  and  saw-mills  from 
Boston  and  San  Francisco.  Everything  consumed  on 
the  place  is  raised  on  it.  Between  the  two  mills  is  an 
enormous  ditch  or  race  for  carrying  the  water  to  a  great 


DON    JUAN    FIEMIN   HUAKTE.  45 

turbine  wheel  which  is  to  run  some  of  the  machinery 
and  assist  in  irrigation.  The  grounds  all  around  are 
filled  with  carts  and  other  agricultural  implements,  ex- 
posed to  sun  and  rain,  and  a  great  part  of  the  work 
done  on  the  buildings  and  ditch,  &c.,  has  been  wasted, 
because  not  half  done, — a  set  of  incompetent  theoretical 
European  engineers,  having  botched  everything  from 
the  start.  The  proprietor,  Senor  Huarte,  now  sees  how 
he  has  been  imposed  upon,  and  when  we  were  there, 
was  endeavoring;  to  secure  the  services  of  a  clear-headed 

O 

practical  American,  then  at  Colima,  to  take  charge  of 
the  work  and  carry  it  on  to  completion.  He  has  al- 
ready expended  $200,000  on  improvements  on  his  estate 
and  from  appearances,  it  will  cost  fully  half  as  much 
more  before  he  will  derive  an  income  from  it.  The 
fields  are  rudely  fenced  with  round  poles,  and  cultiva- 
ted in  a  very  primitive  manner  with  clumsy  agricultural 
implements.  When  in  full  operation  with  proper  man- 
agement, the  estate  ought  to  pay  interest  on  a  million 
dollars 

Sefior  Huarte  is  a  native  of  old  Spain,  short,  dark, 
rotund,  polished  in  manner,  courteous  and  hospitable, 
and  fond  of  doing  everything  on  a  princely  scale.  His 
grand  house  is  at  Colima,  where  his  children  reside — he 
is  a  widower — and  this  is  only  his  country  residence. 
During  our  stay,  he  entertained  us  on  a  scale  of  mag- 
nificence which  puts  the  hospitalities  showered  on  our 
visitors  to  California  completely  to  shame.  His  kitchen 
swarms  with  domestics,  male  and  female,  and  at  his 
table,  course  after  course  of  meats,  fowls,  vegetables  and 
fruits  follow  each  other  with  rapidity,  for  hours  at  a 
time,  and  are  washed  down  with  wines  from  every  grape 
growing  country  from  Ay  and  Malaga,  to  Sonoma. 


46  RURAL    MASS    AND    SUNDAY    SCENES. 

When  we  arose  on  Sunday  morning  we,  found  a  fat, 
round-bellied,  jolly-looking  priest,  in  black,  sitting  in 
the  door- way,  while  his  assistants  were  hanging  a  bright, 
large-patterned  chintz  curtain  up  along  the  wall  under 
the  lower  verandah,  and  preparing  for  mass.  Donning 
his  rich  embroidered  white  satin  robes,  he  opened  the 
service.  The  native  women  and  children  came  stealing 
quietly  in,  and  knelt  on  the  pavement,  in  the  great 
walled  area  by  themselves,  while  the  men  in  lesser 
numbers  came  in,  and  knelt  or  sat  carelessly  about  in 
the  verandah.  The  priest  read  his  pra^rs  in  an  inaud- 
ible voice  in  Latin,  then,  seated  in  a  chair,  read  indiffer- 
ently a  very  good,  sound,  practical,  moral  sermon  in 
Spanish,  then  concluded  the  services  "  with  bell  and 
candle,"  and  then  proceeded  to  pack  up  his  traps.  I 
observed  that  Senor  Huarte  stood  by  as  "  patron  "  dur- 
ing the  services,  but  the  congregation,  consisting  of  per- 
haps one  hundred,  all  told,  contained  no  other  men  of 
intelligence  or  education.  Gov.  Cueva,  Senor  Rendon, 
and  the  other  educated  men  who  were  with  the  Seward 
party,  regarded  the  priest  and  his  proceedings  with  ap- 
parent indifference.  When  the  service  was  over  the 
priest  packed  up  his  things,  mounted  his  little  mule, 
took  his  umbrella  in  his  hand,  and  galloped  away  to 
hold  service  somewhere  else.  His  figure  as  he  galloped 
off  was  so  strikingly  Spanish  and  picturesque  that  it 
might  answer  for  an  illustration  of  Gil  Bias  or  one  of 
Cervantes  works. 

All  that  morning  mounted  men  were  galloping  back 
and  forth,  receiving  orders  from  Seuor  Huarte,  hat  in 
hand,  or  detailing  the  latest  news  from  the  river.  At 
2  p.  m.  the  stages  arrived,  and  the  baggage,  which  had 
come  up  meantime,  was  packed  and  started  off.  Having 


A   MEXICAN    COACH   AND    SIX.  47 

done  the  honors  of  his  country  house  to  the  party 
Senor  Huarte  announced  his  intention  of  accompanying 
us  to  Coliina,  and  acting  the  host  there.  As  we  left  La 
Calera,  the  party  consisted  of  Mr.  Seward,  Fred  Seward 
and  wife,  Abijah  Fitch,  Senor  Don  Francisco,  Javier 
Cueva,  Governor  of  Coliina,  Senor  Francisco  Gomez 
Palencia,  his  Secretary,  who  is  also  "  Diputado  Suplente 
al  Congreso  de  la  Union"  from  Colima,  Senor  Damiar 
Garcia,  "  Capitan  de  buque  y  Director  Politico  de  Man- 
zanillo  ;"  Senor  don  Luis  Eendon.  "  Administrador  del 
Aduana  Maritima  del  Departamento  de  Colima  ;"  Senor 
Jacinto  Canedo,  "  Oficial  2-  de  la  Aduana  Maritima  del 
Manzanillo;"  Dr.  Augustus  Morrill,  Consul  of  the 
United  Sates  at  Colima,  the  writer,  and  about  fifty  fol- 
lowers of  all  classes,  not  forgetting  to  mention  Mr. 
Seward's  colored  servant,  John  Butler,  who  condescend- 
ingly taught  our  language  to  the  Mexican  servitors 
down  stairs,  while  Mr.  Fitch  did  the  same  to  our  host 
above.  If  "Pigeon-English"  did  not  break  out  as  an 
epidemic  at  La  Calera  immediately  after  our  departure. 
I  can  only  account  for  the  fact  by  assigning  it  to  a 
special  interposition  of  an  All-Merciful  Providence,  in 
behalf  of  an  afflicted  people. 

To  each  coach,  four  little  mules  were  harnessed  abreast 
at  the  lead,  and  two  a  trine  larger  at  the  wheel.  Half 
a  dozen  men  held  the  six  mules  until  ready  to  run,  then 
we  "cast  off;"  the"cockero  yelled,"  the  "postillion"  cursed, 
and  cracked  his  whip,  and  we  went  off  like  a  railroad 
train.  When  we  came  to  a  particularly  heavy  place  in 
the  road  the  cochero  hissed,"  ist,  i-s-a-h,  i-i-i-s-s-s-t-a-a-a !" 
and  shouted,  "Aha,  ha-ha-ha-ha,  ha,  h-a-a-a-a!"  inces- 
santly, while  the  postillion  lashed  the  poor  little  panting 
mules  furiously,  and  occasionally  jumped  off  and  varied 


48 


WATER-BEARERS  OF  MEXICO. 


the  performance  by  stoning  them,  then  jumping  back  to 
the  seat  while  the  coacli  Avas  in  full  motion.  These 
postillions  carry  matting  sacks  holding  about  half  a 
peck,  which  they  fill  with  stones  about  the  size  of  a 
lien's  egg,  and  keep  in  reserve  for  emergencies.  If  the 
team  balks,  or  is  stalled  for  a  moment,  they  will  send  a 
steady  stream  of  these  stones  through  the  air,  hitting 
each  mule  on  the  head  in  turn,  with  the  accuracy  of  a 
Western  sharp-shooter. 

Some  places  which  those  little  mules  took  our  heavy 
coaches  through,  hardly  seemed  passable,  but  they  did 
it.  The  old  simile  of  the  "  rat  running  off  with  a  hay- 
stack" loses  all  point  when  applied  to  these  little 
Colima  mules,  but  it  is  death  on  the  rats,  nevertheless. 
Four  "police  of  the  road.,"  mounted  on  little  agile 
horses,  with  costly  saddles  and  rich  trappings,  each  man 

carrying  a 
machete,  or 
st  r  a  i  g  h  t , 
short  sword, 
Henry  rifle, 
and  a  Colt's 
revolver  of 
the  fi  n  e  s  t 
p  a  1 1  e  r  n  . 
rode  in  ad- 
vance, and 
fou  r  fi  n  e , 
tall,  intelli- 
gent- look- 
ing men  of 

the  Custom-House  Guard,  still  more  splendidly  equipped 
and  armed,  rode  behind  us.     One  of  these  last  men  was 


BENOR  HUAUTE'B  HOUSE  AT  COLIMA. 


COLIMA    THE    BEAUTIFUL.  49 

about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  of  olive  complexion, 
classic  features,  six  feet  three  inches  in  height,  and  slim 
and  straight  as  a  young  palm  tree.  I  never  saw  a  finer 
rider — all  these  men  ride  like  Centaurs — or  a  hand- 
somer man.  His  belt  buckle  was  of  finely  wrought 
silver,  and  his  pistol  holster  and  pistol,  marvels  of  rich 
ornamentation  in  the  same  metal. 

At  Tecolapa,  twelve  miles  from  La  Calera,  we  saw  long 
rows  of  Indian  women  going  to  the  well  with  water-jars 
poised  on  their  shoulders,  exactly  as  has  been  done  in 
Palestine  from  the  days  of  Jacob  and  Rebecca  to  our 
own  day. 

It  is  thirty-six  miles  from  La  Calera  to  Colima.  The 
Government  is  spending  a  large  sum  in  grading  a  wagon- 
road  over  the  mountains  frbm  Colima  to  the  sea,  and 
the  thirty  miles  nearest  Colima  are  finished.  But  the 
storm  had  torn  it  up  fearfully,  and  in  many  places  it  was 
almost  impassable.  Rain  came  on,  and  when  the  moon 
went  down  behind  the  mountains,  the  darkness  added 
to  the  difficulty  of  the  trip,  and  we  went  on  at  a  snail's 
pace.  We  changed  teams  three  times  in  the  thirty- 
six  miles,  but  it  was  2  o'clock  in  the  morning  before  we 
emerged  from  the  long  "  Via  de  Colima  "  upon  the  well- ' 
paved  streets  of  that  fine  old  city,  and  our  coach,  with  a 
rattle  and  uproar  which  awakened  all  the  sleeping  watch- 
men, rolled  up  to  the  door  of  the  truly  palatial  man- 
sion of  Senor  Huarte. 


CHAPTER  II. 

COLIMA. 

TT  was  2  o'clock  in  the  mornmg,on  Monday,  October 
•*-  llth,  when  we  entered  Colima.  We  swallowed  a 
hasty  lunch,  and  retired  to  bed  just  as  the  watchmen, 
whom  we  had  noticed  sitting  along  the  sidewalk,  with 
muskets  in  their  hands,  and  great  oil-fed  lanterns  by 
their  sides,  blew  all  their  whistles,  and,  as  with  one 
voice,  drawled  out  the  hotlr,  "3  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  all  quiet,"  (in  Spanish,)  a  proceeding  totally  unnec- 
essary, as  the  Cathedral  and  different  church  bells  all 
strike  the  hours,  and  in  fact  give  the  cue  to  the  watch- 
men, none  of  whom  have  anything  like  a  time-piece  of 
their  own.  It  seemed  as  if  we  had  just  closed  our  eyes 
in  welcome  sleep,  when  the  air  was  filled  with  shrill 
and  piercing  music,  the  sharp  rattle  of  the  kettle-drum, 
and  the  blare  of  trumpets. 

Awake  in  an  instant,  I  listened  in  donbt,  and  for 
some  minutes  I  tried  vainly,  to  detide  where  I  was  and 
to  what  I  listened.  The  music  was  such  as  enlivened 
the  march  of  Cortez  and  Pizarro,  and  their  companions, 
when  they  came  to  spread  desolation  and  the  religion 
of  the  cross,  through  peaceful  and  unoffending  lands, 
but  the  air  must  have  been  centuries  older :  if  it  resem- 
bled anything  originating  since  the  flood,  it  was  "The 
White  Cockade." 

I  looked  down  at  the  bed,  with  its  crimson  and  fringed 


THE   MUSIC    OF   COETEZ.  51 

counterpane  and  gilt  canopy,  and  from  that  to  the  walls, 
painted  in  pale  blue,  and  frescoed,  and  the  cream-colored 
ceiling,  with  cross-beams  of  a  soft,  chocolate  color,  and 
then  went  to  the  iron-latticed  window  and  looked  down  on 
a  neatly-paved  court,  around  which  the  house  was  built, 
and  the  great  staircase  with  its  wealth  of  brilliant-hued 
tropical  flowers  and  climbing  delicate-foliaged  plants, 
and  its  Moorish  dome  painted  in  fresco.  Where  was  I  ? 
Opening  the  door  of  my  bedroom,  I  looked  into  the 
grand  saloon,  about  sixty  or  seventy  feet  square,  with 
its  walls  and  ceiling  painted  like  those  just  described, 
its  glazed  tile  floor,  double  rows  of  Moorish  arches  and 
pillars  supporting  the  roof,  and  chandeliers  suspended 
with  iron  chains  from  the  ceiling,  and  the  long  table 
with  its  crimson  damask  covering,  and  at  last  the  truth 
of  the  situation  flashed  upon  me.  I  was  not  in  the 
Alhambra  at  Grenada,  in  1469 — I  might  have  been,  for 
everything  was  as  thoroughly  Moorish — but  in  Colima, 
in  October,  1869. 

"  Is  it  a  revolution  ?"  I  asked  of  the  obsequious  servant 
in  white,  who  came  at  once  to  attend  upon  me.  "Oh 
no,Seuor;  only  the  troops  changing  guard  at  the  State 
Prison  on  the  Plaza !" 

Going  out  on  the  balcony,  I  looked  across  the  way, 
and  saw  the  band  in  front  of  the  prison  and  the  white- 
clad  soldiers — all  of  Indian  blood — with  red  plumes  in 
their  hats,  and  Springfield  muskets  of  the  year  1862  in 
their  hands,  going  through  the  form  of  guard  mounting. 
I  saw  those  muskets  in  San  Francisco,  during  the  late 
war  with  France,  if  I  mistake  not.  The  ruinous  old 
cathedral,  dating  far  back  into  the  1600  and  something, 
adjoins  the  prison,  and  all  around  the  Plaza  runs  a  row 
of  shops,  for  the  most  part  but  one  story  high.  All 


52  VIEW   FROM   THE   BALCONY. 

the  buildings  are  of  brick,  with  immensely  thick  walls, 
iron-latticed  windows,  and  heavy  wooden  doors  with 
curious  antique  iron  locks,  and  flat,  red-tiled  roofs. 
Beyond  the  buildings,  in  all  directions,  towered  the 
feathery  cocoa  palms  and  giant-leaved  banana  trees — or 
plants — of  the  rich  gardens  of  Colima.  Still  back  of 
them  were  the  green,  wooded  mountains  which  surround 
this  lovely  Valley  of  Colima,  with  the  great  "Volcan 
de  Colima,"  with  a  crown  of  dark  smoke  hanging  over 
its  crater,  towering  above  all  else,  in  the  north-east.  It 
was  a  scene  worth  half  &  life  to  look  upon  but  once. 

On  the  street  the  scene  was  less  beautiful,  but  very 
picturesque  and  peculiar;  not  a  carriage  in  sight. 
Little  asses,  loaded  with  green  corn  fodder,  or  carrying 
frames,  in  which  were  set  on  either  side  two  large  red 
earthen  water  jars,  trotted  along  the  long,  straight,  nar. 
row  streets.  Men  in  broad  hats  and  light  Summer  cos- 
tume of  white  cotton  or  linen,  trotted  along  on  small, 
but  spirited  and  richly  saddled  horses,  and  the  common 
men  and  women  of  the  country,  on  foot,  filled  the  streets 
and  sidewalks.  All  the  marketing,  except  on  Sunday 
when  the  great  market  is  held,  is  done  at  an  early  hour, 
before  the  heat  becomes  annoying,  and  at  sunrise  the 
scene  on  the  streets  of  Colima  and  all  other  Mexican 
towns,  is  most  interesting.  In  the  middle  of  the  day 
the  streets  are  almost  deserted,  and  toward  evening  the 
visiting  and  fashionable  promenading  commences. 

The  principle  dry  goods  and  fancy  stores  are  situated 
in  the  large  buildings,  with  the  portals  fronting  on  the 
plazas,  and  the  sidewalks  are,  during  a  considerably 
portion  of  the  day,  given  up  to  small  traders,  who 
spread  their  little  stock  of  cheap  jewelry,  slippers, 
watches,  cigar itos,  knives,  swords,  and  a  thousand 


THE    STKEET   AND    MAEKETS.  53 

minor  articles  such  as  are  usually  found  in  a  "notion 
store"  at  "  Cheap  John's  "  in  the  United  States,  on  mats, 
and  squat  beside  them  on  the  pavement.  The  main 
market  is  held  in  an  open  square,  where  the  more  com- 
mon articles  of  coarse  food,  green  corn,  fruit,  etc.,  and 
the  light,  strong,  red  earthen  ware  of  the  country  are 
exposed  for  sale  in  the  morning.  Colima  has  35,000  or 
40,000  inhabitants,  and  at  morning  or  evening  they  are 
all  on  the  streets.  As  our  party  passed  along,  people 
always  civilly  made  room,  and  the  better  class  gen- 
erally bowed  politely.  In  passing  the  prison,  the  guard 
invariably  presented  arms  to  me,  and  I  found  after  a 
time,  this  was  all  owing  to  the  fact  that  I  wore  a  vest 
of  blue  cloth,  with  brass  buttons  bearing  the  coat  of 
arms  of  the  State  of  California,  and  for  my  own  con- 
venience I  was  forced  to  change  it,  and  by  donning  a 
plain  white  vest  retire  to  private  life. 

They  make  the  change  here,  when  you  buy  anything 
at  a  store,  down  to  the  smallest  fraction  of  a  cent ;  there 
is  nothing  like  the  Californian  contempt  for  the  odd  bit 
in  Mexico.  Being  in  want  of  a  pair  of  light  panta- 
loons, I  learned  to  my  surprise  that  there  was  no  ready- 
made  clothing  store  in  Colima,  and  a  tailor  was  sent  for 
at  once  to  wait  upon  me.  My  order  and  measure  taken 
down,  the  "artist"  departed,  and  at  night  returned  with 
the  garment  finished.  "  How  much  ?"  He  at  once  ren- 
dered me  a  bill  for  cloth,  buttons,  thread,  labor,  etc., 
amounting  to  seven  dollars  and  twelve  and  one-half 
cents,  and  he  would  neither  take  seven  dollars,  nor  seven 
dollars  and  twenty-five  cents,  but  must  have  the  exact 
change.  The  barber,  boot-maker,  shoemaker,  and  other 
tradesmen  wait  on  you  in  the  same  manner,  and  exact 
the  same  minute  change. 


54  THE    GARDENS    OF    COLIMA. 

The  servants  receive  $5  to  $8  per  month,  in  extreme 
cases  $10,  and  are  exceedingly  respectful  and  attentive. 
They  come  at  the  clapping  of  the  hands  instead  of  the 
bell-call,  as  with  us,  and  always  stand  bare-headed 
when  addressed,  even  though  the  rain  be  pouring,  or 
the  sun  scorching  hot. 

At  the  invitation  of  Senor  Kuarte,  the  party  one  eve- 
ning rode  out  to  the  suburbs,  and  went  through  his 
private  garden,  one  of  many  such  in  the  vicinity.     The 
grounds,  enclosed  with  a  high  stone  wall  in  front,  and 
a  stake  and  pole  fence  elsewhere,  probably  comprise,  all 
told,  about  ten  acres.     Trees  and  plants  fill  the  whole 
inclosure,  the  paths  only  exceptedr  and  the  variety  and 
richness  of  the  fruit  and  foliage  are  beyond  description. 
Tall  cocoa  palms,  covered  with  fruit,  tower  high  in  ajr 
in  all  parts  of  the  grounds,  and  the  bananas,  of  which 
there  are  four  varieties,  fill  in  beneath   as  an   under- 
growth, though  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  height.     Then 
there   are  red-berried   coffee  trees,  with   bright   green 
leaves ;  aguacates,  or  alligator  pears ;  zapotes ;  cacao,  or 
the   chocolate   tree;    oranges,   lemons,   peaches,    sweet 
lemons,  limes,  mangoes,  cheyemoyas,  pineapples,  citrons, 
and  an  almost  endless  variety  of  minor  tropical  fruits. 
It  would  require  the  space  of  a  full  page  to  name  them 
all.     Of  flowers,  there  are  many,  large  and   brilliant- 
/hued,  but  generally  devoid  of  pleasant  odor.     It  was 
curious   to   see   the   common   "  lady's-slipper "   of  the 
North,  here  cultivated  beside  the  gaudy  flowers  of  the 
tropics,  and  regarded  as  something  very  rare  and  choice. 
Of  creeping  plants,  there  are  hundreds.     One  of  these 
has  foliage  like  the  cypress  tree,  as  delicate  as  lace,  and 
beautiful  red  blossoms. 

In  the  corner  of  the  garden  stands  a  large  brick  house 


AGUA   DE   COCOA.  55 

with  a  wide  brick-paved  verandah :  this  is  the  lounging 
place.  Adjoining  is  a  brick- walled  tank,  thirty-five  feet 
long  and  fifteen  broad,  filled  with  water  kept  fresh  by 
constant  running ;  this  is  the  proprietor's  bathing  place. 
It  is  shaded  by  the  palm  trees  and  banana  plants,  and 
the  coolness  makes  it  a  delightful  resort  at  morning  and 
evening  in  this  fervid  climate.  There  is  no  "  fruit  sea- 
son" here;  it  is  fruit  all  the  year  around.  The  cocoa- 
nut  is  never  eaten  here  as  with  us.  The  nuts  are 
picked  when  just  two-thirds  grown  and  while  the  fluid 
inside  is  as  clear  and  limpid  as  the  finest  spring  water. 
This  is  called  " Agua  de  Cocoa"  and  is  a  favorite  and 
very  healthy  and  palatable  beverage.  The  Indian  ser- 
vants who  attend  to  the  garden,  had  many  of  the  cocoa- 
nuts  already  prepared  with  one  end  chipped  off  with  a 
machete,  to  allow  the  water  to  be  turned  out  as  from  a 
jug,  and  as  we  took  seats  in  the  verandah  they  served 
it  around  in  large  glasses.  When  the  water  is  turned 
out  there  remains  a  white  mucilaginous  substance  like 
thin  custard,  which  is  scraped  out  and  eaten  with  a  slip 
of  the  green  husk  for  a  spoon.  It  is  highly  flavored 
but  not  agreeable  to  the  uninitiated. 

From  these  gardens,  fruit  is  sold  to  all  who  desire  it. 
Cocoanuts  are  sold  for  twenty-five  cents  per  dozen  at 
retail,  bananas  for  twelve  and  a  half  to  fifteen  cents  a 
bunch  of  one  hundred  or  more,  and  other  fruit  in  pro- 
portion. One  hundred  square  yards  of  ground  in  ba- 
nanas, will  afford  sustenance  for  an  entire  family  the 
year  round;  why  then  should  people  kill  themselves 
with  hard  work?  Senor  Huarte  paid  $2,000  for  the 
garden,  and  expended  $2,000  more  in  building  the 
house  and  bath,  or  $4,000  in  all.  He  thinks  that  the 
income  from  this  garden  may  be  two  per  cent  per  month 


5£  PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

on  the  money  invested,  but  as  he  has  no  guard  upon 
the  Indian  servants  he  cannot  tell  how  much  they  re- 
ceive, and  is  probably  cheated  out  of  four-fifths  of  the 
actual  proceeds  of  the  sales. 

Sen  or  Canedo,  who  has  traveled  in  the  United  States, 
and  has  some  excellent  practical  ideas,  coupled  with  a 
degree  of  patriotism  which  led  him  to  fight  valiantly 
against  the  French,  coming  out  of  the  war  with  numer- 
ous honorable  wounds,  accompanied  us,  and  gave  us 
much  valuable  information  in  regard  to  the  country  and 
its  products.  He  told  us  that  the  coffee  we  saw  was  of 
the  finest  variety  grown  in  Colima.  This  coifee  readily 
finds  sale  at  home,  and  except  as  a  curiosity,  is  seldom  sent 
abroad.  The  choicest  berries  picked  out  by  hand,  sell  at 
the  fancy  price  of  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  in  coin, 
and  the  ordinary  berries,  really  quite  as  good  for  family 
use,  at  twenty-five  cents.  If  he  could  be  sure  of  getting 
even  twenty  cents  per  pound  net,  in  San  Francisco,  he 
would  undertake  to  furnish  any  amount  in  a  few  years. 
The  berry  is  round  and  white,  and  the  flavor  equal  if 
not  actually  superior  to  that  of  Mocha.  Only  about 
40,000  or  50,000  pounds  are  produced  in  Colima  annu- 
ally, but  the  amount  could  be  increased  indefinitely. 
Cocoa-nut  oil,  produced  from  the  small  round  cocoa-nut, 
called  "  Cochita,"  about  the  size  of- a  hickory-nut,  not 
the  ordinary  cocoa-nut,  is  also  produced  in  considerable 
quantity.  At  Manzanillo  it  is  worth  about  seventeen 
dollars,  coin,  per  barrel. 

Of  tropical  fruit,  Colima — the  State  at  large — is  able 
to  raise  unlimited  amounts,  and  with  good  roads  to 
Manzanillo,  and  a  foreign  market,  an  immense  trade 
might  soon  be  built  up.  Cacao — prbnounced  ka-kow, 
not  cocoa — or  the  chocolate  bean  is  produced  all  over 


PEODUCTIOISTS    OF   THE    COTJNTKY.  57 

the  Tierra  Caliente  of  Mexico,  and  its  product  could  be 
increased  indefinitely.  The  chocolate  made  from  this,  in 
Mexican  style,  is  the  most  delicious  warm  drink  I  have 
ever  tasted.  It  is  no  more  like  the  coarse  compound 
made  and  sold  under  that  name  in  the  United  States 
and  Europe,  than  champagne  is  like  lager-beer.  If  our 
people  knew  how  to  prepare  it  in  the  manner  in  which 
it  come  upon  the  table  in  Mexico,  I  think  that  it  would 
supersede  coffee  and  tea  to  a  very  great  extent. 

There  is  a  bright  yellow  wood  called  "  linoloe  "  grow- 
ing all  over  these  mountains,  which,  for  cabinet-work, 
the  lining  of  bureau-drawers,  etc.,  would  be  invaluable. 
It  is  similar  in  color  to  the  California  laurel,  but  some- 
what softer,  and  exceedingly  fragrant,  the  odor  being 
like  that  of  the  nutmeg  and  moss-rose  combined,  and 
where  it  is  desired  to  keep  furs  or  other  articles  free 
from  moths,  it  has  no  equal.  A  delightfully  fragrant 
oil  for  toilet  purposes,  superior  to  sandal-wood  oil,  is 
obtained  from  the  berry  which  the  tree  produces. 
Samples  of  this  were  shown  me  at  the  extensive  drug 
store  of  Mr.  Augustus  Morrill,  the  American  Consul  in 
the  city.  This  article  ought  to  become  of  commercial 
importance.  There  are  other  equally  valuable  woods  in 
abundance  here.  Nature  has  done  more  for  Colima, 
and  man  less,  than  for  any  other  country  on  earth  I 
think. 

The  people  of  Colima  had  heard  of  the  hospitalities 
showered  upon  Mr.  Seward  in  California,  and  the  other 
Pacific  States  and  Territories  of  the  "  United  States  of  the 
North,"  and  they  were  determined  not  to  be  behind  hand 
for  a  moment ;  to  do  them  justice  I  must  here  admit,  in 
spite  of  my  pride  as  a  Californian,  that  they  were  very 
far  ahead.  Upon  Mr.  Seward's  arrival,  the  officials 


58  INVITATION    TO    THE    PALACE. 

called  at  once  and  offered  the  hospitalities  of  the  city 
and  State,  as  Senor  Huarte  did  those  of  his  house. 

We  had  hardly  time  to  finish  breakfast  on  the  morn- 
ing after  our  arrival,  when  two  elegantly-dressed  gen- 
tlemen, Seiiors  Firmin  Gonzalez  Castro,  and  Francisco 
Santa  Cruz,  were  introduced ;  they  informed  Mr.  Sew- 
ard  that  they  came  in  behalf  of  the  officers  Aduana 
Maritima  and  the  Governor  and  people  of  Colima,  to 
invite  the  party  to  attend  a  ball  and  banquet  at  the 
palace,  on  the  evening  of  the  12th  of  October,  to  be 
given  in  honor  of  his  visit.  The  address  being  duly 
translated,  Mr.  Seward  replied  as  follows : 

"  GENTLEMEN  :  I  have  received  only  hospitalities,  unde- 
served, since  I  landed  in  Mexico.  I  thank  you  sincerely  for 
the  hospitalities  you  have  now  tendered  me.  Desirous  of. 
extending  my  acquaintance  with  the  citizens  of  this  ancient  and 
respected  city  of  Colima,  I  will  attend  the  entertainment  you 
tender  me  this  evening  with  much  pleasure." 

When  evening  came,  the  party  entered  the  carriages 
in  attendance  at  10  o'clock,  and  were  driven  to  the  pal- 
ace. Arriving  there,  all  were  surprised  beyond  measure 
at  the  oriental  magnificence  of  the  decorations  and 
preparations  for  the  occasion.  Outside,  the  building, 
which  is  of  pure  Moorish  style,  was  one  blaze  of  light 
A  crowd  of  the  common  people  standing  in  respectful 
silence  blocked  the  way,  and  were  kept  back  from  the 
portal  by  the  bayonets  of  a  company  of  regular  troops, 
under  command  of  Capt.  Reyes.  The  sidewalks  on 
either  side  were  lined  with  rows  of  feathery  palm-leaves 
fastened  upright  and  decorated  with  lamps,  and  the 
whole  front  of  the  building  was  similarly  decorated. 
Entering  the  portal,  the  soldiers  presenting  arms  as  we 


A   BRILLIANT    AND    BEAUTIFUL    SCENE.  59 

passed,  we  found  a  numerous  and  brilliant  company  in 
attendance,  and  arranged  near  the  door  to  allow  the 
party  to  pass  through  into  the  main  saloon. 

The  scene  presented  as  the  party  entered  was  bril- 
liant, and  wonderfully  beautiful.  The  main  hall  is  in 
the  form  of  a  square,  surrounded  by  wide  corridors,  sep- 
arated by  pillars  and  Moorish  arches,  with  wide  galler- 
ies corresponding  above.  The  floors  were  covered  with 
cloth,  and  sprinkled  with  gilt  paper-clippings.  The 
pillars,  the  arches,  the  walls,  and  the  ceilings  were  loaded 
with  the  richest  vegetation  of  the  tropics ;  palm-leaves 
in  all  their  varieties ;  the  rich,  cream-colored  blossoms 
of  the  cocoa,  looking  like  gigantic  heads  of  wheat  done 
in  wax- work,  the  green  fruit  and  flowers  of  the  banana, 
and  all  the  indescribable  wealth  of  the  tropical  flora, 
in  variety  and  brilliance  beyond  description.  Mr.  Sew- 
ard  exclaimed,  "  It  is  a  tropical  forest',  with  an  oriental 
illumination."  Rich  Chinese  lamps  and  glasses,  filled 
with  perfume  and  brilliant  colored  cocoa  oil,  with  burn- 
ing tapers,  were  on  all  sides. 

The  roof  was  hidden  by  a  canopy  of  green,  white 
and  red  gauze,  and  all  around  the  hall  were  the  flags 
of  Mexico  and  the  United  States  side  by  side.  At  one 
end  of  the  hall,  "  Don  Benito  Juarez,  Salvator  de  la 
Patria,"  looked  down  in  grim  silence  from  the  canvas, 
and  at  the  other,  a  handsome  portrait  of  Mr.  Seward, 
painted  within  two  days  by  a  native  artist,  was  en- 
wreathed  with  laurel  and  the  flags  of  the  two  Repub- 
lics. Around  the  corridor  hung  the  portraits  of  Gen. 
Ramon  Corona,  commander  of  the  Army  of  the  "West, 
and  his  compatriots,  and  the  heroes  of  the  Mexican 
War  of  Independence.  On  one  side  of  the  gallery 
was  the  illuminated  legend  "Al.  H.  W.  H.  Seward," 


60  TIIE    BALL    AND    BANQUET. 

formed  from  glasses  of  red,  green,  and.  "blue  cocoa-nut 
oil,  with  tapers  hanging  against  a  bank  of  tropical  ver- 
dure. The  committee  of  arrangements  must  have  ex- 
pended a  very  large  sum  in  the  preparations,  and  all  to 
the  best  advantage.  Better  taste  was  never  exhibited  in 
any  ball-room  in  America. 

Introductions,  over,  the  band  seated  in  an  alcove 
struck  up  a  lively  air  and  the  dance  commenced,  Gov. 
Cueva  leading  off  with  Mrs.  Frederick  Seward,  and  Mr. 
F.  Seward  with  the  beautiful  and  accomplished  wife  of 
Mr.  Oetling,  the  Consul  of  the  North  German  Confed- 
eration, the  most  perfect  type  of  the  pure  Spanish 
beauty  I  had  seen  thus  far  in  Mexico.  The  ladies, 
wore  little  jewelry,  but  were  dressed  richly  and  in  ex 
cellent  taste,  and  the  gentlemen  were  all  in  black,  with 
white  vests  and  white  kid  gloves. 

After  midnight  the  banquet  was  served  in  the  gallery ; 
the  tables  which  were  loaded  with  every  fruit,  fowl  and 
vegetable  of  this  wonderfully  prolific  tropical  clime, 
and  with  flowers  and  wines  ad  libitum,  extended  entirely 
around  the  gallery.  After  the  substantial  of  the  feast 
were  disposed  of,  Acting  Gov.  Cueva  arose  and  ad- 
dressed the  assembled  guests  and  Mr.  Seward  in  the  fol- 
lowing language,  as  nearly  as  I  am  able  to  translate  it : 

SENDEES  :  The  State  of  Colima,  of  which  I  have  the  honor 
to  be  the  representative,  in  order  to  celebrate  the  brief  visit  to 
this  city,  of  this  illustrious  guest,  who  humbled  the  prond  dip- 
lomats of  the  Cabinet  of  Napoleon  III.,  desires  through  me 
to  manifest  its  appreciation  of  his  friendship  and  admiration  of 
his  conduct.  Undoubtedly  thou  (apostrophetic)  art  the  Genius 
of  that  Democracy  who  marked  the  line  "  Thus  far ! "  to  the 
aggressions  of  Monarchy  !  The  wrinkled  forehead,  and  wintry 
hair  of  Europe,  cannot  marry  with  the  tropical  ardor  of  Young 


ADDRESSES    IN   HONOR    OF   MR.    SEWARD.  61 

America.  The  world  has  contemplated  with  awe-struck  aston- 
ishment this  struggle  of  giants ;  the  darkness  of  the  Past  wrest- 
ling furiously  with  the  light  of  the  Future,  whose  lesson  has 
been  taught  us  by  Progress,  and  once  more  the  crowned  heads 
have  trembled  before  the  irresistible  power  of  Fraternity,  which, 
invoked  by  all  people  must  become  universal.  Mexico,  whose 
misfortunes  have  been  such  as  to  place  her  within  the  reach  of 
French  intervention,  has,  before  all  free  and  independent  na- 
tions, demonstrated  that  she  is  worthy  to  be  ranked  in  their 
catalogues,  and  now,  feeling  the  proud  consciousness  of  sove- 
reign power,  celebrates,  full  of  joy,  ancl  the  enthusiasm  inspired 
by  patriotic  sentiments,  the  fact  of  the  presence  among  us,  of 
the  eminent  statesman,  who  from  the  Casa  Blanoa  at  Washing- 
ton, presented  a  barrier  to  the  irruption  of  the  barbarians  who 
presumed  to  sow  in  our  fertile  fields  the  noxious  and  rotten 
weeds  which  have  paralyzed  the  sons  of  the  Old  Continent. 
The  prouder  world  of  Colon,  which  was  imprudently  attacked 
and  wounded,  answered  unanimously  with  defiance  to  the  pi- 
ratical threat  promulgated  to  her,  and  then  shone  with  redoubled 
effulgence  the  sun  of  the  Cinco  de  Mayo,  and  blinded  with  its 
radiance  the  eyes  of  the  enemies  of  Republican  institutions. 
Senor :  The  glories  of  my  country  fraternized  with  yours  in  the 
struggle  of  the  past.  I  salute  thee  in  the  name  of  the  Mexican 
people,  and  offer  you  its  friendship  as  sincerely  as  thou  hast 
been  a  true  and  sincere  friend  to  the  Government  and  people 
of  this  nation,  who  applaud  and  bless  thee ! 

When  lie  concluded  his  address,  the  company  ap- 
plauded loudly,  by  the  clapping  of  hands  and  a  "  hur- 
rah" a  la  Americano,  in  special  compliment  to  the 
guests.  Don  Firmin  Gonzales  Castro,  and  Don  Fran- 
cisco E  Trejo,  followed  in  short  but  fervent  addresses, 
in  similar  spirit,  and  Mr.  Seward  then  arose  and  ad- 
dressed the  audience,  amid  profound  silence,  as  follows : 

SENOR  GOVERNOR  AND  GENTLEMEN  :  I  thank  you  with  a  full 
heart  for  these  most  undeserved  hospitalities  and  honors.  The 


62  MR.  SEWARD'S  FIRST  SPEECH  LN  MEXICO. 

experience  of  the  eighteenth  century  indicated  to  mankind  two 
important  changes  of  society  and  government  on  the  Continent 
of  America.  First,  that  all  American  States  must  thereafter 
be  not  dependent  European  colonies,  but  independent  Ameri- 
can nations.  Second,  that  all  independent  American  nations 
must  thereafter  have,  not  imperial  or  monarchical  governments, 
but  republican  governments,  constituted  and  carried  on  by  the 
voluntary  agency  of  the  people  themselves.  During  a  large 
part  of  my  own  political  life,  these  great  changes  of  society  and 
government  have  been,  more  or  less,  in  logical  debate  contested 
in  Europe,  and  on  the  battle-field  throughout  America.  While 
they  have  often  involved  the  American  States  in  civil  and  inter- 
national wars,  they  have  more  than  once  provoked  European 
intervention.  A  third  improvement  was  easily  found  necessary 
to  guarantee  full  success  to  the  two  principal  changes  which  I 
have  already  mentioned.  This  third  improvement  consists  in 
the  continuation  of  the  many,  or  several  contiguous  nations  or 
States,  which  are  weak  of  themselves,  into  United  States  dis- 
tinct nations.  My  own  country,  the  United  States,  has  taken 
the  lead  in  these  changes,  so  essential  in  the  American  hemi- 
sphere. The  Mexican  Republic  has  early,  and  bravely  and  per- 
sistently, adopted  a  similar  system.  Central  America,  and 
nearly  all  the  South  American  States,  have  followed  the  exam- 
ple thus  set  by  the  United  §tates  and  the  Mexican  Republic. 
One  additional  principle  remains  to  be  adopted,  to  secure  the 
success  of  the  republican  system  throughout  the  continent.  If 
it  shall  become  universal  on  the  American  continent,  we  have 
reason  to  expect  that  the  same  great  system  may  be  accepted  by 
other  nations  throughout  the  world.  That  additional  principle 
is  simply  this :  That  the  several  American  Republics,  just  as 
they  constitute  themselves,  while  mutually  abstaining  from  in- 
tervention with  each  other,  shall  become  more,  than  ever  here- 
tofore, political  friends  through  the  force  of  moral  alliance. 
This,  in  short  is ''the  policy  which  I  have  inculcated  at  home, 
and  which,  with  your  leave,  and  the  leave  of  others  interested, 
I  shall  commend,  as  far  as  possible,  to  the  Republics  of  Mexico, 
Central  America  and  South  America.  I  sincerely  trust  that 


GRAND    FANDANGO.  63 

the  severest  trials  of  the  republican  system  are  already  passed 
in  Mexico,  and  I  shall  never  cease  to  pray  God  for  her  contin- 
ued independence,  unity,  prosperity,  and  happiness. 

When  Mr.  Seward  ceased  speaking,  the  applause  was 
hearty  and  enthusiastic,  and  the  last  shade  of  doubt  and 
distrust  that  seemed  to  have  been  lingering  in  the  pub- 
lic mind  as  to  the  motives  of  his  visit,  appeared  to  have 
vanished.  The  banquet  over,  the  party  again  re. 
turned  to  the  ball-room,  and  the  dancing  re-commenced. 
The  German  merchants  of  Colima  mingled  with  the 
dark-eyed  beauties  of  the  country,  side  by  side  with  the 
American  guests,  and  an  era  of  good  feeling  and  broth- 
erly regard  seemed  to  have  been  inaugurated.  At  4  A. 
M.,  a  grand  "  fandango,"  by  dancers  and  musicians  spe- 
cially sent  for,  was  given.  The  dance  is  not  unlike  the 
can-can  in  its  voluptuous  abandon,  and  though  curious, 
I  do  not  recommend  its  adoption  by  the  sons  and 
daughters  of  my  native  land.  At  day-break  the  first 
grand  party  given  in  Mexico  in  honor  of  the  distin- 
guished American  visitor  broke  up.  It  was  a  magnifi- 
cent success. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  7  o'clock,  a  few  friends, 
and  myself — kindly  accompanied  by  W.  H.  Broadbent 
and  Mr.  John  Bulkley,  late  Superintendent  of  the  San 
Cuyatano  Cotton  Mills — started  off  on  horses  sent  for 
our  use  by  Senor  Luis  Rendon  and  Consul  Morrill,  to 
visit  the  cotton  mills  of  Colima.  A  two  mile  ride 
through  the  narrow,  straight  streets  of  Colima,  and  out 
along  the  woods  overhung  with  the  garden  verdure  of 
this  land  of  fruit  and  flowers,  along  the  banks  of  the 
Rio  de  Colima,  brought  us  to  the  San  Cuyatano  mill. 
This  establishment,  like  everything  here,  surrounds  a 


64:  VISIT   TO   THE   COTTON   FACTORIES, 

wide  court-yard,  each  building  being  but  one  story  in 
height,  of  brick,  and  tile-roofed.  The  motive  power  is 
furnished  by  a  huge  overshot  wheel,  forty-two  feet  in  di- 
ameter, which  runs  two  thousand  spindles,  and  the  mill 
employs  two  hundred  and  fifty  men  and  women  when  in 
operation. 

It  is  now  idle,  owing  to  the  overstock  of  domestic 
cottons,  and  the  high  price  of  the  raw  material.  It  has 
large  quarters,  consisting  of  long  rows  of  tenements, 
each  with  a  front  and  rear  room,  and  a  verandah  and 
small  back  yard,  which,  when  the  mills  are  running,  are 
rented  to  the  families  of  the  operatives  at  one  dollar 
and  fifty  cents  per  month  ;  not  a  high  rent.  The  women, 
all  young  and  clean,  and  some  quite  pretty,  were  sitting 
around  in  the  verandahs  doing  some  small  work,  and  on 
our  passing,  all  arose  and  greeted  us  with  a  pleasant 
smile,  and  "  Buenas  dias,  Senors !" 

We  went  on  to  the  Armonia  Mill,  which  is  of  similar 
character,  and  now  running.  It  has  one  thousand  spin- 
dles, and  employs  eighty  operatives.  Then  we  went  to 
the  Atrevida  Mill,  which  has  twenty-five  looms  and 
eight  hundred  spindles,  (and  employs  eighty  people. 
The  machinery  of  the  Atrevida  and  San  Cuyatano  is 
from  Fall  River — "  Estados  Unidos  Del  Norte"-— and 
that  of  the  Armonia  from  England..  The  Armonia  was 
built  in  1845,  and  paid  from  thirty  thousand  to  forty 
thousand  dollars  per  annum  dividends  until- 18 64,  when 
the  business  fell  off  in  consequence  of  the  civil  war. 
The  cloth  is  all  of  coarse  sheetings  or  muslin,  known 
here  as  manta,  and  sells  at  six  dollars  and  twenty-five 
cents  per  piece  of  thirty-two  varas  (a  vara  is  two  and 
three-fourths  feet,  English)  for  the  best,  which  weighs 
eleven  pounds  per  piece.  The  second  quality,  weighing 


THE    KAVAGES    OF   WAK.  65 

nine  pounds,  sells  for  five  dollars  and  twenty-five  cents 
per  piece.  The  women  get  two  and  one-half  rials — 
thirty-one  and  one-fourth  cents — per  piece  for  weaving 
the  cloth,  and  the  other  operatives  thirty-seven  and 
a  half  cents  per  day,  they  boarding  themselves.  The 
cotton  costs  thirty-four  cents  per  pound  cleaned,  at  pres- 
ent, and  two  dollars  and  twenty-five  cents  per  wrroba 
of  twenty-five  pounds  unginned. 

The  present  cotton  product  of  the  State  of  Colima  is 
two  million,  five  hundred  thousand  pounds,  and  there 
are  many  thousands  of  acres  of  uncultivated  land  avail- 
able for  cotton  raising  if  required.  The  women  work 
faithfully  and  quietly,  but  with  downcast  and  generally 
hopeless  look.  They  are  of  all  colors  from  red  to  white, 
a  mild  lemon  color  being  the  leading  and  fashionable 
hue.  I  have  been  told  that  a  number  of  these  girls  re- 
cently went  to  California  to  better  their  condition,  and 
that  their  letters  from  San  Francisco,  to  their  friends  in 
Colima,  have  created  a  general  desire  among  their  sister 
operatives  to  follow  in  their  footsteps,  and  seek  a  home 
in  the  Golden  State. 

From  the  roofs  of  the  mills  we  looked  down  on  gar- 
dens filled  with  tropical  fruits,  oranges,  bananas,  cocoa- 
nuts,  coffee,  vanilla,  and  a  thousand,  to  us,  rare  things, 
growing  in  rank  and  neglected  luxuriance,  then  mounted 
our  animals,  and  galloped  back  along  ruined  bridges 
and  shattered  walls,  in  part  the  effect  of  the  cannon-balls 
rained  upon  Miramon's  forces  by  the  Liberal  artillery 
under  Col.  George  M.  Green,  when  Juarez  was  advanc- 
ing on  Guadalajara  from  the  West ;  in  part  to  the  con- 
test between  the  French  and  Liberals,  when  the  latter 
were  defeated  and  the  city  taken,  and  in  part  the  effect 
of  a  great  flood  in  1864,  and  were  soon  at  the  door  of 

Senor  Huarte's  hospitable  casa. 
D 


66  TILE    PUBLIC    SCHOOLS    OP    COLIMA. 

At  the  invitation  of  Gov.  Cueva,  who  is  acting  Gov- 
ernor in  place  of  Gov.  Ramon  de  la  Vega,  the  latter 
having  been  absent  for  a  long  time  on  leave  from  Pres- 
ident Juarez,  I  visited  the  public  schools  in  Colima,  in 
which  he  takes  a  very  commendable  interest.  I  found 
them  well  attended,  and  the  pupils  exceedingly  well-be- 
haved and  intelligent.  The  schools  are  free  ta  all,  and 
seem  to  be  appreciated.  This  is  an  evidence  of  actual 
progress  in  Mexico,  very  pleasant  to  witness,  and  must 
convince  the  most  skeptical  that  the  world  does  move, 
even  here. 

From  the  schools  we  went  to  the  State  Prison,  the 
Prefect  of  the  State  or  municipality,  Don  Sebastian 
Fajerdo,  kindly  accompanying  us  and  showing  us  all 
the  points  of  interest.  The  prison  is  guarded  by  the 
garrison  of  Colima,  comprising  one  hundred  regular 
troops,  and  is  used  in  part  as  a  jail  or  calaboose,  as  well 
as  a  State  Prison.  It  is  of  great  age,  and  exceedingly 
defective  in  construction,  so  far  as  ventilation  is  con- 
cerned. Each  ward  is  separated  by  an  open-work  iron 
door,  of  great  strength,  from  the  next,  and  one  is  locked 
before  the  second  is  unlocked  on  every  occasipn.  I 
found  one  hundred  and  fifty-seven  prisoners  all  told. 
Of  these,  half  were  common  drunkards,  or  perpetrators 
of  light  offenses,  sentenced  to  chain-gang  duty  for  a  brief 
time.  Many  of  the  others  have  the  word  "perpetua " 
entered  opposite  their  names;  and  one  poor,  cowering 
wretch  in  irons,  was  pointed  out  as  under  sentence  of 
death  for  a  horrible  and  cruel  murder.  Gov.  Cueva, 
who  seems  to  be  a  thoroughly  mild,  kind-hearted,  and 
merciful  man,  explained  to  me  that  he  had  not  yet  signed 
the  death-warrant,  and  he  disliked  to  do  so  always,  put- 
ting it  off  as  long  as  possible,  and  then  ordering  the 


THE    STATE   PEISON    AND    PKISOKEBS.  67 

shooting  to  take  place  at  day-break  as  quietly  and  pri- 
vately as  possible,  it  being  his  opinion  that  such  exhibi- 
tions had  no  good  effect  on  the  public  mind. 

After  a  conviction  for  a  capital  offense,  the  transcript 
of  the  records  of  the  trial,  evidence,  etc.,  must  be  sent 
to  Mexico  to  be  reviewed  by  the  Supreme  Court.  If 
that  tribunal  decides  that  the  trial  has  been  fair,  and 
the  finding  is  according  to  law  and  the  evidence,  then 
an  order  for  the  execution  of  the  sentence  is  sent  back, 
the  Governor  must  sign  the  death-warrant  within  a 
given  number  of  days,  and  the  shooting  must  take 
place  within  twenty-four  hours  thereafter. 

Pardons  can  only  be  issued  by  the  Legislature  (Con- 
gresso)  of  the  State.  The  records  appeared  regularly 
and  neatly  kept,  and  the  prisoners  as  well  and  humanely 
treated  as  possible  with  the  present  prison  accommoda- 
tions. Each  prisoner  had  a  mat  to  sleep  and  sit  upon, 
but  other  furniture  there  was  none,  and  in  some  of  the 
wards  the  air,  for  the  want  of  proper  ventilation,  was 
very  oppressive.  All  were  naked  to  the  waist,  or 
nearly  all,  and  with  the  single  exception  of  one  demor- 
alized Swiss — probably  one  of  Maximilian's  mercena- 
ries— in  for  stealing,  of  native  birth  and  Indian  blood. 
The  precautions  against  revolt  or  escape  would  be  con-, 
sidered  extraordinary  in  any  other  country.  Nearly  all 
are  engaged  in  braiding  fine  palm-leaf  hats,  worth  abaut 
two  dollars  each,  or  making  fancy  worsted  work- 
baskets,  etc.,  which  they  are  allowed  to  have  sold  for 
their  private  account.  As  we  entered  each  room  the 
prisoner^  arose  and  bowed  respectfully,  at  a  nod  from 
the  turnkey,  and  remained  standing  until  we  left.  If 
Gov.  Vega,  or  acting  Gov.  Cueva,  had  the  means  at  com-- 
mand,  they  would  soon  have  a  better  prison  erectedj, 


68  CURIOUS  CHRISTENING  CEREMONIES. 

and  change  the    entire  system  to  that  of  New- York, 
which  they  highly  approve. 

At  2  P.  M.,  of  our  last  day  in  Colima,  the  party  re- 
paired to  an  old  Spanish  church  to  assist  at  the  chris- 
tening of  the  two  youngest  children  of  Consul  Morrill. 
Mr.  Seward,  the  elder,  acted  with  Mr.  Buckley  as  god- 
fathers for  one,  and  Mr.  Fred  Seward,  wife,  and  Mr. 
Buckley,  as  godfathers  and  godmother  for  the  other. 
The  ceremony  was  soon  over,  and  as  we  reached  the 
portal,  there  came  a  rush  of  men,  woman  and  children 
of  the  poorer  class  to  receive  bright,  clean  rials 
called  " lolos"  as  mementoes  of  the  christening.  The 
term  comes  from  the  response  of  the  godfather  during 
the  ceremony  "  Yo  bolo !"  (I  consent !)  It  is  the  custom 
for  each  of  the  godfathers  and  godmothers  to  give  every 
person  present  a  bolo,  and  it  took  about  a  quart  to  go 
around.  Then,  at  the  residence  of  Senor  Huarte,  trays 
filled  with  these  pieces — twelve  and  a-half  cents  each- 
punched  and  adorned  with  red,  green  and  white  rib- 
bons, were  brought  out,  and  were  presented  by  the 
"  Compadres,"  to  each  of  the  army  of  servants  and 
children  in  the  place.  It  is  an  odd  and  peculiar  custom. 

Having  been  left  out  in  the  cold,  as  it  were,  personally 
at  the  christening,  I  got  even  by  distributing  some  dol- 
lars worth  of  American  dimes  among  the  highly  appre- 
ciative audience,  on  behalf  of  the  next  candidate  for 
ordinance,  whether  it  should  be  a  girl  or  boy,  Mr. 
Buckley  kindly  promising  to  act  as  my  proxy  at  the 
ceremony,  as  a  few  thousand  miles,  more  or  less,  would 
be  pretty  certain  to  intervene  between  us  before  that 
interesting  event  could  take  place. 

On  the  afternon  of  Wednesday  the  13th  of  October 
Colonel  Sabas  Lomeli,  commander  of  the  State  Guard 


FAKE  WELL   TO    COLIMA.  69 

of  Jalisco,  a  richly  dressed,  and  fine,  soldierly-looking 
officer,  with  one  hundred  cavalry,  detailed  by  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Jalisco  to  act  as  an  escort  to  Mr.  Seward  and 
party,  as  far  as  Guadalajara,arrived  from  that  city,  and 
immediately  presented  himself,  with  his  aids,  for  orders. 
Colima,  the  beloved  of  the  Sun,  had  won  all  our  hearts, 
and  it  was  with  not  a  little  regret,  that  we  made  prepa- 
rations for  departure  next  morning,  at  day-break.  Co- 
lima !  Colima !  shall  I  ever  look  upon  you  again  ? 


CHAPTER  III. 


the  evening  of  Oct.  13th,  we  made  our  final  prep- 
arations  for  departing  from  Colima,  and  at  4  o'clock 
next  morning  all  was  bustle  and  excitement  in  the 
grand  house  of  Senor  Huarte,  and  in  the  streets  and 
Plaza  in  front.  The  long  roll  of  the  drum,  and  the 
shrill  notes  of  the  trumpet,  announced  the  assembling 
of  the  military  guard  before  day-break,  and  when  the 
dawn  came,  the  scene  as  viewed  from  the  balcony  was 
magnificent.  The  squadron  of  the  Guard  of  Jalisco, 
one  hundred  strong,  lined  one  side  of  the  Plaza,  with 
their  horses  saddled  and  caparisoned  for  the  road.  In 
front  of  our  house,  a  long  train  of  pack-mules  was  be- 
ing  loaded  for  the  journey  by  a  swarm  of  servants ; 
two  coaches,  each  with  six  mules,  four  in  the  lead  and 
two  at  the  wheel,  stood  ready  for  the  party,  and  the 
police  of  Colima,  finely  mounted,  with  Senor  Canedo, 
Don  Luis  Rendon,  Gov.  Cueva,  our  worthy  Consul 
Dr.  Augustus  Morrill,  and  other  officials  and  private 
citizens,  were  galloping  about  on  horseback,  all  hand- 
somely mounted,  and  each  with  servants,  spare  horses, 
and  camp  equipage,  ready  for  the  road. 

At  last  all  was  ready,  the  trumpets  of  the  advance- 
guard  sounded  "  to  the  saddle,"  and  they  filed  away  at 
a  gallop  down  the  streets.  The  crowd  in  front  was 
forced  back  by  the  police,  and  Mr.  Seward  entered  his 


PAINFUL   SCENE   AT   THE  CONSULATE. 

coach  with  the  members  of  his  party,  the  other  coach 
was  filled  by.  our  friends,  and  the  people  bared  their 
heads  and  bowed  respectfully  as  a  last  salutation, 
as  the  coaches  rattled  away  over  the  cobble-paved 
streets. 

The  rear-guard  and  the  long  pack-train  fell  in  behind, 
and  the  police  and  other  officials  and  friends  galloped 
alongside.  Vamos  !  ah-fa-ha-ha-ha-ha-k-a-a-a  !  yelled  the 
cocheros  /  the  postilions  cracked  their  whips,  and  so, 
with  clatter  and  uproar,  and  strange  music  indescriba- 
ble, we  dashed  past  the  Plaza  Nuevo,  with  its  tri- 
umphal arches,  its  orange  groves  and  seats  for  summer- 
evening  loungers,  out  through  the  long,  straight,  narrow 
streets,  into  the  garden-lined  roads  of  the  suburbs,  and 
Colima  the  Beautiful  was  behind  us. 

In  the  last  chapter,  mention  was  made  of  a  prisoner 
in  irons  in  the  State  Prison  awaiting  death  for  a  brutal 
murder.  The  order  for  his  execution  had  been  signed 
by  Gov.  Cueva  on  the  day  previous  to  our  departure, 
and  he  was  to  be  shot  at  day-break  on  that  morning. 
While  standing  in  Consul  Morrill's  office  on  the  eve- 
ning before  our  departure,  I  heard  a  terrible  outcry  in 
the  corridor,  and  saw  the  poor  old  mother  of  the  con- 
demned criminal  on  her  knees  before  the  Consul,  beg- 
ging him  in  the  name  of  God  and  all  the  saints  to  inter- 
fere in  her  son's  behalf.  "You  represent  the  great 
Estados  Unidos  del  Norte,  and  are  all-powerful.  Save 
him,  Sen  or,  and  all  the  saints  of  heaven  will  bless  you !" 
He  told  her  as  mildly  as  possible,  that  he  had  no  power 
to  interfere,  and  that  the  young  man — a  bad  youth,  who 
had  committed  murder  before,  and  on  this  occasion 
butchered,  in  cold  blood,  a  merchant's  clerk,  who  had, 
under  orders  from  his  employer,  refused  him  credit  for 


72  THE  COUNTRY  AND  PEOPLE. 

four  dollars — deserved  his  fate.     Then  she  fell  insensi- 
ble to  the  pavement.  .% 

When  the  sympathizing  women  had  restored  her  to 
consciousness,  she  rushed  to  the  house  of  Senor  Huarte, 
and  fell  on  her  knees  before  one  of  our  party,  mistaking 
him  for  Mr.  Seward.  She  was  taken  away  by  the  po- 
lice before  she  could  see  him,  and  so  he  was  saved  the 
useless  pain  of  meeting  her.  Gov.  Cueva,  being  told  that 
the  prisoner  was  apparently  insane,  sent  two  physicians 
to  examine  him,  but  they  reported  him  thoroughly 
sound  in  mind ;  and  as  he  had  no  power  to  pardon  him, 
that  being  reserved  to  the  State  Legislature  and  the 
President,  while  a  reprieve  would  be  no  mercy,  he  or- 
dered, as  a  mark  of  respect  to  Mr.  Seward,  that  the 
execution  be  delayed  until  we  were  out  of  the  city. 
Our  coaches  had  hardly  rolled  off  the  last  pavement  of 
Colima,  before  there  was  a  sharp  rattle  of  musketry  from 
the  river's  bank,  a  puff  of  blue  smoke  curled  up  above 
the  house-tops,  and  drifted  away  in  the  clear  morning 
air,  and  the  story  of  a  life  was  told. 

A  few  miles  out  of  Colima  the  character  of  the  coun- 
try begins  to  change  from  ultra-tropical  to  semi-tropical. 
We  drove  over  execrable  roads,  between  wide  fields  of 
rice,  now  half-grown  and  richly  green,  beautiful  castor- 
beans,  and  Indian  corn.  The  cocoa-palms  decreased  in 
number,  and  finally,  at  twenty  miles  north-east  of  Coli- 
ma, entirely  disappeared,  while  the  bananas  grew  less 
thriftily  and  abundant.  The  land,  where  not  cultiva- 
ted, was  everywhere  covered  with  rich,  nutritious 
grasses,  and  cattle  and  sheep  abounded.  We  have  no 
grass,  properly  speaking,  in  California,  the  wild  oat  out 
there  taking  its  place,  and  these  green,  grassy  fields  ap- 
peared more  beautiful  to  me  from  the  fact  that  I  had  not 


GKEAT    BAKKANCA   DE    BELTRAN.  73 

looked  upon  their  like  for  many  years.  The  country  is 
well  populated,  and  though  the  people — mostly  of  In- 
dian descent — live  in  poor  huts  of  cane,  with  rice  straw- 
thatched  roofs,  open  all  around  the  sides  to  wind  and 
rain,  and  are  miserably  clad,  they  appear  to  have  abun- 
dance to  eat,  and  are  quite  well  behaved,  and  apparently 
contented  with  their  lot. 

Twenty-five  miles  from  Colima,  we  reached  the  first 
"  Barranca,"  a  branch  of  the  great  "Barranca  de  Beltran," 
the  insurmountable  obstacle  to  the  construction  of  a 
passable  wagon  road  from  the  coast  to  Guadalajara. 
These  Barrancas,  some  five  or  six  in  number,  three  very 
large,  are  minor  Yosemites  in  appearance,  having  been 
formed  by  the  action  of  water  in  a  stratum  of  sand, 
bowlders,  and  loose  gravel.  They  are  many  miles  in 
length,  uniting  finally  like  the  various  branches  of  a 
great  river  as  they  approach  the  sea-coast,  and  are  from 
five  hundred  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  in  depth,  with  steep 
precipitous  sides. 

The  amount  of  labor  required  to  construct  even  passa- 
ble mule  roads  up  and  down  their  sides,  is  almost  in- 
credible. The  road  has  been  laid  out — it  was  done  a 
century  ago — with  great  engineering  skill,  and  the  zig- 
zags, with  acute  angles,  are  beautifully  constructed. 
The  road-bed  is  from  eight  to  thirty  feet  in  width,  the 
sides  inclining  to  the  center,  and  -neatly  paved  with 
cobble-stones,  the  large  and  small  stones  being  arranged 
in  lines  in  regular  order.  Each  year,  the  water  cuts  the 
bed  of  the  Barranca  deeper  and  deeper,  and  the  work 
must  be  extended,  while  the  heavy  rains  gullying  out 
the  pavement,  make  constant  repairs  necessary.  The 
lower  side  of  the  road  is  usually  fenced  in,  or  lined  with 
a  substantial  stone  wall  neatly  plastered,  and  in  one  of 


74  THE   PALANQUIN. 

the  smaller  Barrancas  a  solid  stone  bridge  with  a  single 
arch,  evidently  of  great  age,  spans  the  stream. 

Seiior  Huarte  had  provided  a  large  palanquin  to  con- 
vey Mr.  Seward  through  the  Barranca  country,  as  his 
injuries,  received  some  years  ago,  rendered  it  impossible 
for  him  to  guide  a  horse,  or  hold  on  to  a  saddle  for  a 
long  time.  The  palanquin,  or  litter,  consisted  of  two 
stout  poles,  three  feet  apart,  bolted  together  with  cross 
beams,  supporting  in  the  center  a  platform  on  which 
was  fastened  a  large,  cushioned  arm-chair,  above  which 
was  a  canopy  of  brilliant  green  merino  stuff  with  cur- 
tains of  the  same  material.  When  going  up  and  down 
the  Barrancas,  and  in  particularly  dangerous  places,  the 
palanquin  was  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  four  stalwart 
men  in  white  cotton  pantaloons,  and  broad  plain-leaf  hats, 
with  rough  sandals  on  their  feet.  When  the  procession 
came  to  a  good  place  on  the  road,  the  palanquin  was 
transferred  to  the  backs  of  two  mules,  who  carried  it 
along  at  a  swinging  trot.  The  men  were  relieved  at 
intervals  of  a  few  minutes,  and  despite  the  heat  and 
bad  roads,  they  would  get  along  nearly  as  fast  as  a  man 
on  horseback,  riding  at  an  ordinary  gait. 

At  the  first  Barranca  we  left  Senor  Huarte's  excellent 
coaches,  and  took  to  mule  and  horseback.  Descending 
the  first  Barranca  and  climbing  its  precipitous  sides 
again,  we  crossed  a  small  plateau,  and  came  to  the  first 
arm  of  the  great  Barranca  de  Beltran,  probably  eight 
hundred  feet  deep.  Looking  up  this  Barranca  we  saw, 
on  the  opposite  side,  the  old  red-tile-roofed  town  of 
Tornila,  embowered  in  tropical  foliage  and  flowers,  with 
banana  fields  and  trees,  each  bearing  a  profusion  of  bril- 
liant flowers,  on  either  side,  and  the  great  Volcano  of 
Colima  towering  into  the  heavens  in  awful  majesty,  his 


MAGNIFICENT    SCENEBY.  75 

head  crowned  with  a  turban  of  sulphurous  smoke,  in 
the  background.  Surely,  I  mused,  I  must  have  been 
here  before,  the  scene  is  so  wonderfully  familiar. 

At  last  it  occurred  to  me,  this  is  the  perfect  counter- 
part of  "  the  Heart  of  the  Andes,"  as  Church  painted  it. 
Even  the  trees  covered  with  parrots,  and  the  rushing 
waters,  were  all  there.  On  that  day,  and  again  the  next 
day,  we  saw  the  picture  repeated  in  a  thousand  varied 
forms,  and  each  more  beautiful  and  wonderful  than  the 

last. 

At  noon,  we  reached  Tornila,  and  were  warmly  re- 
ceived at  the  hospitable  residence  of  Senor  Don  Eamon 
de  la  Vega,  the  elected  Governor  of  Colima.  Tornila 
is  just  over  the  line,  in  the  State  of  Jalisco,  and  Senor 
Vega  is  residing  there  by  permission  of  President 
Juarez,  while  Gov.  Cueva  acts  in  his  place.  He  was 
driven  out  by  the  French,  and  was  compelled  to  flee  to 
San  Francisco,  but  immediately  returned  on  the  restor- 
ation of  the  republic.  He  has  served  several  years,  and 
will  decline  another  re-election,  as  he  is  old,  and  desires 
to  devote  himself  to  his  private  affairs.  His  mansion 
overlooks  011  one  side,  a  broad  and  beautifully  irregular 
valley,  with  ranges  of  low  hills,  and  the  Sierra  del 
Tigre  rising  to  the  clouds  in  the  southern  background. 
Nearer,  are  gardens  filled  with  fruits  and  flowers  in  end- 
less profusion. 

From  the  northern  front  of  Gov.  Vega's  residence  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  great  Volcano  of  Colima  may 
be  obtained.  The  western  peak  of  this  great  mountain 
is  a  perfect  truncated  cone,  very  beautiful,  and  majestic 
in  proportions.  It  is  estimated  to  be  from  twelve  thou- 
sand to  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea — no  two 
estimates  agree  by  hundreds  of  feet — and  is  wooded 


70  T1IE    VOLCANO    OF   COLIMA. 

to  the  very  summit.  This  peak,  though  formerly  in 
eruption,  had  been  silent  for  forty  years.  Now,  we  can 
see  small  jets  of  smoke  or  steam  issuing  from  crevices 
near  the  summit,  but  in  no  considerable  quantity,  and 
there  is  no  rumbling  or  other  indication*  of  an  erup- 
tion. Back  of  this  first  peak  to  the  eastward  some 
miles,  is  a  second  peak,  called  the  Snowy  (Nevada) 
Peak,  or  Old  Crater.  This  is  now  wholly  silent. 

Between  these,  but  further  to  the  northward  than 
either,  and  lower  down,  is  the  crater  formed  in  August, 
1869,  from  which  the  smoke  now  pours  in  dense  vol- 
ume, but  not  a  sound  of  any  kind  nor  any  trembling 
accompanies  the  eruption.  In  fact,  this  whole  affair  is 
an  unexplainable  mystery.  The  former  eruptions  sent 
forth  immense  rivers  of  lava,  and  were  accompanied  by 
frightful  earthquakes  and  rumblings.  This,  commenced 
in  the  night,  with  a  shock  so  slight  that  it  was  hardly 
noticed  in  the  City  of  Colima,  and  continued  in  the 
same  manner  from  the  12th  of  July  1869  up  to  the  time 
of  our  visit.  No  lava  is  poured  out,  but  there  is  a  con- 
stant discharge  of  red-hot  rocks,  some  of  which  weigh 
hundreds  of  tons,  which  are  merely  vomited  out  and 
rolled  down  the  side  of  the  mountain :  not  hurled  into 
the  air. 

The  engineer  who  was  sent  up  to  examine  it,  made  a 
full  report,  and  through  the  kindness  of  Gov.  Cueva, 
I  was  furnished  with  a  copy.  I  am  inclined  to  the 
opinion  that  the  present  demonstration  is  only  prelim- 
inary, and  that  the  actual  eruption,  attended  with  lava 
discharges  and  wide-spread  devastation,  is  yet  to  come. 
At  present,  the  Volcano  of  Colima  is  the  best-behaved 
volcano  in  the  world — mild-mannered,  but  wonderfully 
beautiful  and  awe-inspiring  to  the  beholder. 


• 


DESTNEK    AT   TORJSTILA.  77 

The  dinner-table  was  spread  in  the  corridor  overlook- 
ing all  the  scene,  and  the  party  sat  down  to  a  sump- 
tuous entertainment  prepared  on  the  shortest  notice. 
Senor  Huarte  had  provided  an  unlimited  supply  of 
wines  and  liquors  of  every  description,  and  poured 
them  out  like  water  all  the  way  to  Zapotlan,  to  which 
place  he  accompanied  us.  He  is  a  perfect  prince  of 
hosts,  and  his  kindness  and  unceasing  care  for  the  com- 
fort of  our  party  will  not  soon  be  forgotten.  These 
Mexican  people  "beat  the  world"  in  the  number  and 
excellence  of  the  dishes  they  prepare  for  the  table  at 
short  notice.  Chicken,  turkey,  and  beef  may  be  had  at 
every  little  hamlet  in  abundance,  and  they  serve  them 
up  in  a  variety  of  styles,  always  well-cooked  and  pala. 
table.  They  also  contrive  to  produce  dulces — liter, 
ally  "sweets" — from  almost  every  conceivable  fruit  and 
vegetable,  and  also  pastes  and  jams  in  endless  variety. 
On  this  occasion  the  dulces  were  prepared  by  the  hand 
of  Senora  de  la  Vega  herself.  Their  three  bright-eyed 
daughters,  handsome  young  ladies,  with  light  olive 
complexions,  their  cheeks  tinged  with  a  rosy  hue,  sat  at 
the  table  with  the  party. 

When  the  dinner  was  dispatched  and  wines  brought 
on,  Gov.  Cueva  arose,  and  in  feeling  terms  thanked  Mr. 
Seward  for  his  visit,  and  for  the  good  services  he  had 
rendered  to  Mexico.  On  behalf  of  the  State  of  Colima 
he  desired  to  bid  him  good-bye,  wish  him  God-speed, 
and  a  safe  return  to  his  home  in  the  far  North,  and  give 
him  a  hearty  embrace.  The  Governor  then  embraced 
him  with  great  fervor,  bade  each  of  the  party  an  affec- 
tionate adieu,  and  started  on  his  return  to  Colima. 

The  rainy  season  in  this  country  commences  in  June, 
and  according  to  the  almanac,  ought  to  conclude  in  Sep- 


78  THE    FOOT-HILLS    OF   THE    SEEKRA    MADRE. 

tember,  but  this  year  it  did  not.  It  was  now  the  mid- 
dle of  October,  and  still  the  clouds  poured  down 
showers  every  evening  and  during  most  of  the  night 
making  traveling,  which  ought  to  have  been  better  than 
at  any  other  season,  almost  impossible  and  slow  at  best. 
It  Was  raining  when  we  left  Tornila,  and  we  hardly 
saw  the  sun  that  day.  The  country  from  Colima  to 
Zapotlan  is  quite  populous,  and  in  the  middle  part  nearly 
all  the  arable  land  is  cultivated. 

The  road  is  very  wide,  but  poor,  and  inclosed  be- 
tween very  high  and  substantial  stone  walls.  The 
crops  are  corn,  beans,  pumpkins,  rice,  sugar-cane,  <fec., 
<fec.,  and  all  are  very  good.  From  Tornila  we  ascended 
rapidly,  and  were  soon  among  the  foot-hills  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  of  Mexico.  The  country  is  not  unlike 
Central  Arizona  in  formation,  but  the  vegetation  is 
rank  and  luxuriant  to  a  degree  beyond  comparison. 
At  all  the  houses  along  the  road  there  are  little  open 
windows,  in  which  are  exposed  for  sale  fruit  and  bread 
cakes,  tortillas  and  cheese.  For  a  media — half  a  rial, 
or  six  and  one-fourth  cents — you  can  buy  a  milk-pan 
fall  of  bananas  or  other  fruit,  and  bread,  etc.,  is  very 
cheap. 

Women,  lightly  dressed  in  loose  cotton  camesas  and 
skirts,  are  seen  in  every  house,  squatted  before  the  hol- 
lowed block  of  lava,  on  which  they  grind  to  a  paste 
the  half-boiled  hulled  corn,  from  which  they  make  tor- 
tillas. Placing  a  handful  of  the  corn  on  the  stone,  they 
take  hold,  with  both  hands,  of  a  stone  abogt  a  foot  in 
length  and  three  inches  square,  which  they  rub  back 
and  forth  over  the  corn  until  it  is  reduced  to  a  pulp, 
then  taking  up  a  little  mass,  pat  it  with  both  hands 


TOKTILLA   MAKERS. 


until  they  have  spread  it  out  to  the  thickness  of  com- 
mon paste-board,  and  bake  it  on  a  hot  stone.  This  is 
the  tortilla,  which  with  the  dark  red  beans  known  as 
frijoles,  form  the  leading  articles  of  diet  of  the  humbler 
class.  The  tortilla 
is  also  used  as  a 
spoon,  when  they 
eat  beans  or  soup, 
and  the  spoon  is 
eaten  up  at  the  close 
of  the  feast. 

Our  military 
guard  was  an  object 
of  no  little  curiosity 
and  admiration 
They  belong  to  a 
force  of  eight  hun- 
dred picked  men, 
armed,  equipped, 
and  put  into  the  field 

by  the  State  of  Jalis-  A  MEXICAN  COOK. 

co,  to  free  the  roads 

from  robbers  and  maintain  public  order.  Col.  Sabas  Lo 
meli,  their  commander,  is  a  splendid-looking  man,  tall, 
stout  built,  quite  fair  complexioned,  with  long  whiskers 
and  mustaches,  a  la  Americano,  and  is  not  only  remarka- 
bly good  looking,  but  has  the  air  and  carriage  of  a  soldier. 
He  is  said  to  be  a  very  brave  and  accomplished  officer, 
and  the  fac^that  within  a  few  months  his  command  has 
practically  cleared  the  roads  of  the  great  State  of  Ja- 
lisco of  robbers,  and  captured  or  killed  nearly  two  hun- 
dred of  the  banditti,  who  had  made  traveling  very  dan- 
gerous, speaks  well  for  his  energy.  He  is  accompanied 


80 


OUR    MILITARY    ESCORT. 


by  a  major,  captain,  and  the  company  lieutenants,  all  of 
whom  are  uniformed  with  dark-blue  jackets,  trimmed 
with  broad  silver  bull- 
ion and  large  silver 
buttons,  bright  scarlet 
pantaloons,  with  silver 
lace,  and  top-boots  of 
enameled  leat her. 
Their  caps  are  nearly 
the  same  in  form  as  the 
regular  United  States 
fatigue  cap,  but  with 
green  trimmings,  and 
with  a  white  linen 
cover  having  a  cape, 
which  when  let  down, 
protects  the  shoulders 
from  sun  and  rain. 
The  soldiers  have 
caps,  blue  coats  and 
pantaloons  with  green  trimmings,  and  the  pantaloons 
are  foxed  with  dark  leather.  They  carry  swords,  Colt's 
revolvers,  and  Springfield  muskets,  and  are  mounted  on 
small,  but  very  spirited  and  quick-traveling  horses,  of 
which  they  take  excellent  care.  •  The  officers  carry 
swords  and  Colt's  revolvers,  and  wear  broad,  red  sashes 
thrown  carelessly  over  their  shoulders.  Their  uniform 
is  very  brilliant  and  picturesque.  The  force  of  one 
hundred  men  have  only  three  pack-muleg(|to  cany  all 
their  baggage.  They  take  no  tents  or  cooking  utensils, 
and  can  get  over  the  ground  with  twice  or  thrice  the 
speed  attained  by  our  troops  in  the  United  States. 
One  hundred  miles  within  thirty  hours  is  no  great 


COL.  8ABAS  LOMELI. 


THE  GUARD  OF  JALISCO  ON  THE  MAECH.      81 

march  for  them,  and  the  infantry  can  keep  up  with 
them.  The  common  soldiers  are  all  of  Indian  blood, 
small  in  size,  but  active,  and  admirably  fitted  for  rapid 
marches  and  the  guerilla  style  of  warfare.  I  never 
saw  so  well-behaved,  quiet,  and  orderly  men.  They 
receive  thirty-seven  and  one-half  cents  per  day  in  coin. 
Of  this  twelve  and  one-half  cents  is  paid  them  daily, 
and  the  remainder  at,  or  near,  the  end  of  the  month. 
They  get  no  rations,  but  live  easily  on  the  twelve  and 
one-half  cents.  They  will  gallop  up  to  a  road-side 
shop,  and  with  three  cents  purchase  a  dozen  tortillas, 
and  a  piece  of  the  sour-milk  cheese  of  the  country, 
which  serves  them  for  lunch.  For  breakfast,  an  ear  of 
soft-boiled  corn  will  serve  them  admirably,  and  for  sup- 
per a  few  frijoles  and  tortillas  are  sufficient.  In  camp 
or  at  garrison  duty,  they  get  rations,  and  are  charged 
for  them.  Col.  Lomeli  wears  a  magnificent  diamond 
ring  and  gold  watch,  and  is  splendidly  mounted,  a 
silver-ornamented  saddle  setting  off  to  great  advantage 
the  fine  black  horse  which  he  rides. 

Leaving  the  party  just  before  night-fall,  I  galloped 
on  alone  to  the  great  hacienda  of  San  Marcos,  where 
we  were  to  pass  the  night,  meeting  by  the  way  the  pro- 
prietor who  had  started  out  to  meet  Mr.  Seward  and 
welcome  him  to  his  house. 

This  great  hacienda  cost  a  million  dollars,  and  for 

<3 

many  years  prior  to  the  French  invasion  paid  $60,000 
net  profits  annually.  The  war  ruined  its  old  proprie- 
tor, and  its  Resent  one  bought  it  for  $200,000.  The 
buildings  surround  a  large  square,  in  the  center  of 
which  there  is  a  fountain  constantly  playing,  to  which 
all  the  workmen  and  women  resort  for  water.  On  one 

side  of  the  square  are  the  workshops  where  the  casks, 

6 


82  HACIENDA    DE    SAN    MARCOS. 

boxes,  etc.,  are  made.  On  the  opposite,  is  the  immense 
sugar-mill,  with  splendid  machinery  of  the  best  pattern. 
At  the  entrance,  on  one  side,  is  the  office  and  counting- 
room  ;  on  the  other,  the  pyre  or  altar-like  pile  of  ma- 
son-work, on  which  a  fire  is  kindled  with  pitch-pine 
wood  at  night,  to  light  up  the  entire  place.  At  the  op- 
posite end  is  the  extensive  distillery  in  which  the  cane, 
(after  the  greater  part  of  the  juice  has  been  expressed,) 
is  permeated  with  the  molasses,  to  make  a  villainous 
kind  of  rum  called  aguardiente  del  cana,  which  is  as 
much  like  boiled  lightning  as  can  be  imagined,  and  the 
very  smell  of  which  will  cause  a  very  fair  sample  of  the 
Christian  gentleman  to  commit  murder.  Above  this, 
rises  a  small  hill  of  solid  rock  about  seventy  feet  in 
height,  surmounted  by  the  casa  grande,  or  great  house 
of  the  estate.  This  house  is  one  story  in  height,  with 
a  vast  corridor  all  around  it,  and  a  hollow  square  in  the 
center.  It  is  painted  white  outside,  and  inside  it  is  like 
all  the  better  houses  in  this  country,  elaborately  fres- 
coed in  blue  and  chocolate  colors. 

The  view,  from  the  corridor,  of  the  great  volcano— 
the  base  of  which  is  but  ten  miles  distant — and  of  the 
Sierra  Madre  in  the  east,  the  Sierra  del  Tigre,  and  inter- 
vening plains  on  the  other  side,  is  wonderfully  beau- 
tiful. The  business  of  the  hacienda  is  now  but  mod- 
erately profitable,  since  the  fine,  almost  pure,  and  richly 
flavored  sugar  is  worth  but  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents 
per  arroba  of  twenty-five  pounds,  and  the  aguardiente 
only  realizes  three  dollars  per  barrel  of%ighteen  gal- 
lons, after  being  packed  on  mules  to  Zapotlan  and  Guad- 
alajara, the  barrel  itself  being  returned. 

Night  came  on  while  I  was  sitting  on  the  broad  veran- 
dah waiting  for  the  arrival  of  the  party,  and  drinking  in 


WILD    NIGHT    SCENE.  83 

the  glory  of  the  scene  before  me.  The  darkness  was 
almost  palpable  to  the  touch,  and  I  began  to  fear  that 
the  party  must  encamp  on  the  mountains  for  the  night. 
Suddenly,  the  notes  of  the  bugle  came  floating  through 
the  air,  and  a  long  line  of  brilliant  lights,  moving  with 
a  steady  motion  which  showed  that  they  were  carried 
by  marching  men,  came  out  upon  the  hill-side  some 
miles  away. 

Like  a  great  fiery  serpent  the  column,  with  its  hun- 
dred torches  unfolded  itself,  and  crept  steadily  toward 
the  hacienda.  On  it  came,  winding  and  turning  with 
the  sinuosities  of  the  road,  until  I  could  discern  the 
outlines  of  the  horsemen  who  bore  the  flaming  torches, 
and  see  the  great-leaved  trees  come  in  and  out  of  the 
panorama  of  ever-shifting  lights  and  shadows,  as  the 
column  moved  along.  It  was  a  scene  of  enchantment 
which  seems  too  much  like  the  work  of  imagination  to 
be  real,  even  now,  as  I  look  back  upon  it  through  mem- 
ory's gateway. 

At  last  the  procession  entered  the  patio,  and  all  was 
bustle  and  confusion  for  an  hour  or  more  before  the 
troops  were  finally  quartered  for  the  night,  the  baggage 
disposed  of,  and  the  party  quietly  provided  for  in  the 
various  rooms  of  the  great  house.  The, family  of  the 
proprietor,  Mauricio  Gomez,  reside  most  of  the  time  at 
Zapotlan,  and  were  not  at  the  hacienda  when  we  were 
there.  We  supped  royally,  slept  soundly — there  are- 
no  musquitoes,  and  very  few  flies  in  all  this  country — 
and  at  6  A.  JL,  on  the  15th  were  off  for  Zapotlan,  our 
road  leading  for  miles  between  the  rice-fields,  sugar-cane 
and  corn-fields  which  covered  the  whole  country. 

Soon  after  leaving  San  Marcos  we  came  to  the  main 
branch  of  the  great  Barranca  de  Beltran,  which  is  about 


84 


BEAUTIFUL    VIEWS. 


two  thousand  feet  wide  and  fifteen  hundred  .  feet  deep, 
with  almost  perpendicular  sides,  down  which  the  road 
has  been  cut  with  infinite  labor  and  paved  at  an  im- 
mense e  x- 
p  e  n  se. 
The  de- 
scent into 
t  hi  s  B  a  r- 
ranca  on 
horseba  c  k 
is  no  tri- 
fling feat, 
and  the 
beauty  of 
the  views 
at  e  v  ery 
turn  is 
really 
wo  n  der- 
fuL  At 
places,  the 

whole  road  is  over-arched  with  trees  and  climbing  vines, 
and  on  every  hill-side  the  wealth  of  flowers  is  beyond  im- 
agination. Parrots  in  great  flocks  yelled  at  us  from  the 
trees,  and  little  parroquets  and  other  brill iant-hued 
birds,  swarmed  in  the  thickets  all-  around.  Mules, 
loaded  with  the  produce  of  the  country,  met  us  at  every 
angle  of  the  road. 

The  scene,  as  the  procession  wound  down  the  defiles 
into  the  bed  of  the  Barranca  and  up  the  other  side,  the 
green  palanquin  swaying  back  and  forth  at  the  head, 
the  brilliant  uniforms  of  the  officers  and  soldiers  of  the 
guard  coming  in  and  out  among  the  trees  in  vivid  con- 


BARRANCA  DE  I5ELTRAN. 


GENERAL    ARTEAGA. HISTORIC    GROUND.  85 

trast  to  the  deep  green  of  the  vegetation,  and  the  scarlet 
and  blue  and  orange  of  the  flowers,  the  sabres  and 
muskets  flashing  in  the  sun,  with  the  hundred  minor  but 
still  picturesque  details  of  the  march  was  one,  once 
witnessed,  not  soon  to  be  forgotten. 

It  was  high  noon  when  we  reached  the  Mesa  on  the 
eastern  side,  and  crossed  over  to  the  Barranca  Atenqui- 
qui,  beyond  which  we  expected  to  meet  the  stages  from 
Zapotlan.  Looking  back,  I  noticed  two  projections  or 
points  between  divided  branches  of  the  Barranca ;  these 
might  serve  for  points  on  which  to  erect  piers  for  a  sus- 
pension bridge,  which  might  be  constructed  so  that  each 
span  would  not  exceed  eight  hundred  feet  in  length. 
On  the  highest  point,  Gen.  Arteaga,  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  French  invasion,  erected  earth-works  de- 
fended by  artillery,  but  finding  his  troops,  who  were 
poorly  armed  and  thoroughly  demoralized,  could  not 
hold  the  position,  he  pitched  his  cannon  down  the  Bar- 
ranca, and  retreated  to  the  interior.  He  was  subse- 
quently taken  by  surprise,  and  murdered  in  cold  blood 
by  the  French,  under  the  orders  of  Maximilian.  Gen. 
Arteaga's  remains,  with  those  of  Gen.  Salazar,  who  met 
a  like  fate,  have  recently  been  removed  to  the  Pantheon, 
at  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  interred  in  great  state. 

Take  the  Yosemite  Valley,  diminished  in  depth  one- 
half  and  narrowed  in  like  manner,  cover  all  its  sides 
and  bottom  with  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  trop- 
ics, and  you  have  the  great  Barranca  de  Beltran  as  we 
looked  back  into  it  for  the  last  time. 

At  1  o'clock  p.  M.,  we  paused  for  a  rest  in  the  last  of 
the  Barrancas,  that  of  Atenquiqui,  in  which  the  forces 
of  Miramon  were  bush- whacked  and  completely  routed, 
with  almost  total  loss,  by  the  Liberals  under  Gen. 


86  AN    INDIAN    RUNNER. 

Cheeseman,  immediately  commanded  by  Col.  Geo.  M. 
Greeu,  if  I  remember  correctly,  toward  the  close  of  the 
war. 

The  stages  were  not  forth-coming,  and  people  who 
came  over  the  road  told  us  that  it  was  impassable  for 
vehicles  for  the  greater  part  of  the  way  from  Zapotlan 
to  the  Barranca  owing  to  the  damage  done  by  the  re- 
cent storm. 

An  Indian  messenger  was  sent  off,  on  foot,  with  a 
promise  that  if  he  returned  before  4  p.  M.,  with  news 
of  the  stage-coach,  he  should  have  two  dollars.  It  was 
then  2  P.  M.,  and  we  laid  down  to  rest.  At  five  minutes 
before  4  p.  M.,  the  barefooted  messenger  returned  with 
the  news  that  the  coach  would  meet  us  nine  miles  down 
the  road,  at  a  point  where  a  great  gully  had  made  it 
impossible  to  get  the  vehicle  farther.  He  had  made 
eighteen  miles  at  a  run,  within  the  two  hours,  as  was 
subsequently  demonstrated,  and  well  earned  his  two 
dollars. 

We  mounted  at  once  and  pushed  on,  Mr.  Seward  on 
a  mule  led  by  a  half-naked  native  and  holding  on  by 
both  hands,  and  met  at  last  the  fine,  large  stage,  made 
by  the  American  pattern  in  Mexico,  sent  out  from  Za- 
potlan for  our  accommodation.  Here,  we  weje  near 
the  summit  of  the  pass  through  the  Sierra  Madre,  and 
the  country  looked  not  unlike  the  foot-hills  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  about  Grass  Valley  and  Colfax,  in  California. 
The  chaparral  had  mostly  disappeared,  and  the  coun- 
try was  sparsely  covered  with  stumpy,  yellow  pines, 
with  long  leaves  hanging  down,  so  as  to  give  them  a 
weeping-willow  aspect.  The  air  at  this  elevation  was 
quite  comfortably  cool,  and  we  discarded  the  thin  ap- 
parel in  which  we  had  sweltered  in  the  Terra  Caliente, 


TRANSPORTATION   TRAINS. 


87 


which  we  were  now  passing  out  of,  and  put  on  such  as 
is  worn  in  San  Francisco. 

At  every  turn  on  the  road  we  met  trains  of  pack- 
mules  laden  with  the  produce  of  the  country,  going 
down  to  the  coast,  or  were,  for  hours,  mixed  up  with 
similar  trains  going  up  from  the  coast  to  the  interior. 


INDIANS  FROM  MICHOACAN  GOING  HP  TO   GTTADALAJAKA. 

The  down  trains  were  loaded  with  the  hard  soap  of 
Zapotlan,  coarse  earthen  ware,  fruit,  sugar,  etc.,  but 
principally,  soap.  The  up  trains  were  loaded  with 
sugar,  rice,  and  aguardiente,  of  which  there  seemed  to 
be  no  end.  One  train  must  have  numbered  at  least 
two  hundred  and  fifty  mules,  each  loaded  with  two 
barrels  of  the  accursed  aguardiente,  eighteen  or  twenty 
gallons  in  each  cask.  The  poor  little  mules  were  ut- 
terly exhausted  with  climbing  and  descending  the  bar- 
rancas, and  were  dropping  down  at  intervals  of  a  few 
rods  all  along  the  road.  It  is  estimated  that  not  less 


ZAPOTLAN AN    ANCIENT    CITY. 

than  twenty  thousand  mules  are  constantly  employed 
transporting  goods  over  the  road  between  Colima  and 
Guadalajara  and  intermediate  points,  and  as  each  car- 
ries at  least  two  hundred  and  fifty  or  three  hundred 
pounds,  the  aggregate  amount  must  be  enormous. 
Many  of  the  smaller  trains  which  we  met  were  loaded 
with  coarse  rush  matting,  used  for  covering  floors,  or 
earthern  jars,  and  were  driven  by  Indian  families,  men, 
women,  and  children,  on  foot,  who  appeared  to  be  do- 
ing business  on  their  own  account.  In  many  cases  a 
mule  would  have  goods  worth  not  more  than  three  dol- 
lars on  his  back,  and  the  family  must  be  poor  indeed 
to  go  so  far  for  so  little  money.  We  must  have  met  or 
passed  at  least  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  mules 
during  the  day.  , 

We  passed  also  several  Mexican  families  of  the  bet- 
ter class,  traveling  on  horseback  and  attended  by  nu- 
merous servants,  all  well  armed.  The  women,  inva- 
riably, had  their  heads  covered  with  rebosas,  or  large 
handkerchiefs  under  their  broad-brimmed  hats,  hiding 
all  their  hair  and  most  of  their  faces,  so  fearful  do  they 
seem  to  be  of  any  exposure  to  the  air  w^hen  traveling, 
though  when  at  home,  they  go,  bare  headed,  in  the  hot- 
test sun,  or  coldest  breeze  to  church,  theater  or  prom- 
enade, all  the  year  around. 

Passing  at  a  distance  the  magnificent  hacienda  of 
Huescalapa,  which  appeared  like  an  immense  white 
palace,  we  saw  soon  after  night-fall,  the  long  rows  of 
paper  lanterns  which  adorned  every  house,  and  were 
strung  a<jross  every  street  in  Zapotlan,  giving  to  the 
tumble-down  old  city  an  air  of  enchantment.  The 
illumination  was  in  honor  of  the  feast  of  San  Jose  of 
which  saint  this  was  the  anniversary. 


THE    WHOLE   HOG."  89 

Driving  up  to  the  door  of  the  residence  of  Don  Trin- 
idad Viszcayno,  we  alighted,  and  were  soon  provided 
for,  for  the  night.  The  City  Council  of  Zapotlan  called 
immediately  to  pay  their  respects,  and  a  band  com- 
menced playing  in  front  of  the  house.  The  crowd  was 
dense,  but  well-behaved  and  respectful,  and  during  our 
stay,  nothing  but  kind  treatment  was  experienced. 
Among  those  who  paid  us  most  attention  was  Senor 
Don  Manuel  F.  Alatorre  of  Guadalajara,  cousin  of  Gen. 
Alatorre,  a  popular  republican  commander,  then  in  the 
City  of  Mexico. 

Zapotlan  contains  from  eighteen  thousand  to  twenty 
thousand  people.  There  are  more  Indians  in  propor- 
tion to  the  whole  population  than  at  Colima,  and  fewer 
well-dressed  people  on  the  streets.  This  is  one  of  the 
oldest  cities  in  America,  and  is  situated  in  one  of  the 
richest  regions  of  Mexico ;  but,  two  hundred  and  fifty 
years'  experience  have  only  brought  the  people  up  to 
manufacturing  soap  and  sugar.  There  are  ten  or 
twelve  large  soap  factories  in  Zapotlan,  and  the  trade 
is  enormous.  One  of  them  we  visited.  There  are  no 
iron  kettles  or  utensils  in  it,  and  all  the  heating  is  done 
in  vats  made  of  brick,  while  the  ladling  is  done  with 
immense  calabashes  fastened  to  long  poles.  And  yet, 
the  work  is  well  done,  and  the  soap  much  superior  to 
the  common  brown  soap  in  general  use  in  the  United 
States.  The  alkali  is  obtained  from  soda-earth  in  im- 
mense quantities  on  the  margin  of  a  lake  ten  leagues 
from  Zapotlan,  and  the  hogs  are  thrown  into  the  vats 
whole,  bristles  and  all,  as  we  had  an  opportunity  to 
see.  This  is  emphatically  "  going  the  whole  hog."  In 
some  parts  of  Mexico  cakes  of  soap  are  used  as  small 
change,  and  hence  the  expression  so  common  in  the 


90 


A  MEXICAN  WEDDING  PARTY. 


United  States,  "  How  are  you  off  for  soap?"     I  charge 
nothing  extra  for  this  explanation. 

The  town  is  full  of  churches  of  ancient  date,  and 
there  are  the  ruins  of  an  immense  cathedral  which  was 
thrown  down  in  1806,  when  many  people  were  killed. 
They  are  just  erecting  a  new  one,  from  lava  taken  from 
a  field  of  great  extent  near  the  town,  and  which  flowed 
from  the  great  volcano  centuries  ago.  It  will  probably 
be  finished  in  another  century. 

Above  the  door  of  one  of  the  churches,  we  noticed 
an  inscription,  announcing  that  there  were  thirteen  sta- 
tions in  the  church  at  which  one  could  deposit  money, 
and  have  any  friend 
he  might  name,  prayed 
out  of  purgatory,  or 
helped  along  on  his 
way.    Willing  to  lend 
a  helping  hand,  I  de- 
posited twenty -five 
cents  on  behalf  of  a 
friend  in  San  Francis- 


co. I  forgot  to  men- 
tion the  fact  that  he 
is  not  yet  dead,  but 
presume  that  will 
make  no  difference, 
as  he  is  sure  to  need 
it  sooner  or  later,  and 
the  longer  he  waits 

BRIDE  AND  GliOOM  ENTERING  THE  CHURCH. 

the  greater    call    he 

will  have  for  all  the  assistance  his  friends  can  give  him. 

While  at  Zapotlan  we  saw  a  wedding  party  enter 

the   church.     Bride  and  bridegroom  were  of  pure  Mex- 


ANECDOTE    OF   GEISTERAL    EOJAS.  91 

lean  blood,  the  common  people  of  the  country,  and  the 
whole  party  were  of  the  same  class.  The  costumes  of 
the  bride  and  bridegroom,  and  their  floral  decorations, 
were  of  such  a  remarkable  character,  that  nothing  but 
the  engraving  can  give  a  good  idea  of  them. 

The  city,  though  dull,  is  growing  and  slowly  improv- 
ing. It  contains  a  number  of  beautiful  residences,  and 
about  twelve  first-class  families. 

When  the  infamous  robber  and  patriotic  cut-throat 
"General  Rojas"  took  Zapotlan  on  one  occasion,  his 
men  reported  that  the  bell-tower  of  one  of  the  churches 
was  full  of  the  enemy,  who  had  surrendered,  and  were 
ready  to  come  down  and  deliver  up  their  arms.  "  What 
shall  we  do  with  them,  your  Excellency?"  Rojas  con- 
sidered a  moment,  and  then  replied,  "  Oh,  these  poor 
men  are  not  to  blame ;  they  must  not  be  killed,  but  sent 
home,  as  they  only  acted  under  orders."  His  men 
could  not  understand  such  unusual  clemency,  as  it  was 
his  custom  to  kill  all  who,  by  any  misfortune  fell  into 
his  hands.  Seeing  the  officer  who  had  made  the  inquiry 
standing  irresolute,  as  if  in  doubt  of  understanding 
correctly  what  Rojas  had  said,  the  latter  added,  "I  say 
sent  home;  of  course  you  will  not  take  any  extra 
trouble  with  them,  but  send  them  home  by  the  shortest 
road.  The  officer  understood  the  infernal  monster's  hint, 
and  returning  to  his  command,  gave  such  orders  that  in 
a  few  moments  a  well-directed  fire  from  below  forced 
all  the  soldiers  in  the  tower  to  jump  to  the  street,  and 
of  course  they  perished  to  a  man.  This  anecdote  was 
related  to  me  by  a  gentleman  who  knew  Rojas  well, 
and  belonged  to  the  political  party  with  which  he  was 
acting  at  the  time.  As  we  advanced  into  the  interior 
we  heard  many  similar  anecdotes  of  this  atrocious 


92  A   MONOPOLY    OF   CRIME.      > 

criminal.  It  is  a  satisfaction  to  know  that  the  brute 
got  his  deserts,  and  was  killed  like  a  wild  beast  at  Sey- 
ula,  at  last. 

Rojas  came  from  the  district  of  Tepic,  where  he  was 
employed  for  many  years  by  one  foreign  importing 
house,  to  oppose  by  fraud,  violence,  and  blood-shed, 
Manuel  Lozada,  who  was  in  the  pay  of  a  rival  house. 
Lozada  finally  triumphed,  and  has  for  years  carried  on 
a  sort  of  independent  monarchy,  with  Tepic  for  its  capi- 
tal, in  the  Northern  corner  of  the  State  pf  Jalisco.  He 
styles  himself  "  Manuel  Lozada,  Natural  Chief  of  the 
district  of  Tepic,"  permitting  no  one  to  share  the  cares  and 
responsibilities  of  office  with  him.  San  Bias  serves  as 
an  importing  or  smuggling  port  for  his  kingdom,  and  as 
he  has  a  mountain  district  which  is  impenetrable  to  an 
opposing  force  if  defended  at  all,  his  army,  of  devoted 
followers  like  those  of  Lopez  in  Paraguay,  which  can 
be  swelled  to  eight  thousand  or  ten  thousand  in  a  few 
days,  enables  him  to  bid  defiance  to  the  Federal  Gov- 
ernment, and  cany  things  all  in  his  own  way.  He  was 
originally  a  muleteer,  and  is  too  ignorant  to  write  his 
own  name,  but  has  much  capacity  for  governing,  with 
an  energetic,  cruel,  and  unforgiving  nature.  Skinning 
the  feet  of  his  enemies  and  forcing  them  to  walk  over 
live  coals,  is  one  of  the  mildest  of  the  practical  jokes 
in  which  he  sometimes  indulges.  •  To  do  him  justice, 
he  keeps  excellent  order  in  the  district  of  Tepic,  allowing 
no  one  else  to  murder  or  rob  within  his  jurisdiction. 
The  republic  has  been  forced  to  tolerate  him  for  many 
years,  because  unable  at  any  time  to  send  a  sufficient 
force  against  him  to  crush  him  at  a  blow.  Should  a 
period  of  entire  peace  in  all  other  parts  of  the  Repub- 
lic come  within  his  time,  the  Government  would  make 


HOW    LOCAL    REVOLUTIONS    ARE    MANAGED.  93 

short  work  of  Mm  at  any  cost ;  but  Low  soon  sucL  an 
opportunity  may  occur,  is  a  question  for  unreliable 
speculation  only. 

In  1868-9,  an  expedition  against  Lim,  to  be  under 
tLe  command  of  General  Ramon  Corona,  was  planned 
and  nearly  ready  to  start,  but  never  got  marcLing  or- 
ders, disturbances  requiring  tLe  presence  of  tLe  troops 
arising  elsewLere. 

It  is  a  noticeable  fact,  tL  at  nearly  all  tLe  local  revolu- 
tions or  pronunciamentos  in  Mexico, — especially  in  tLe 
states  bordering  on  tLe  sea-coast — are  fomented  and  sus- 
tained for  tLe  moment  by  foreign  Louses,  wLo  desire  to 
profit,  pecuniarily,  by  tLe  misfortunes  of  tLe  country 
and  its  inLabitants.  When  several  cargoes  of  goods 
from  Europe,  on  which,  duties  ranging  from  fifty 
to  one  hundred  and  fifty  per  cent  ad  valorum  are  paya- 
ble by  law,  are  about  due  at  some  port,  the  parties  in  in- 
terest look  up  some  ambitious  chief,  who  will  consent 
to  be  used  by  them,  provide  him  with  the  means  to 
raise  the  first  body  of  troops  at  hand  in  ^pronuncia- 
mento.  He  then  seizes  the  Custom-House,  and  if  pos- 
sible, the  nearest  mint,  lets  in  the  cargoes  for  twenty 
or  twenty -five  per  cent,  of  the  legal  duties,  and  le  vies 
a  forced  loan  or  two,  on  the  merchants  within  his  re  ach. 
Of  course,  he  takes  good  care  to  give  receipts  for  the 
amount  of  the  prestimo  due  from  the  houses  in  whose 
interest  he  is  acting.  By  the  time  the  Government 
troops  arrive  to  attack  him,  he  is  ready  to  decamp  with 
what  funds  he  has  raised,  and  seek  an  asylum  in  the 
United  States,  or  some  other  country.  The  legitimate 
Government  authorities,  on  being  restored  to  power, 
find  it  always  dimcult,  and  generally  impossible,  to  col- 
lect the  duties  on  the  goods  which  have  thus  been 


94  TILE    A'lCTIMS    OF   THE    PBO^UNCIADOS. 

smuggled  into  the  country,  and  so  the  Republic  is  not 
only  swindled  out  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars 
in  the  time  of  its  most  urgent  necessity  generally,  but 
is  put  to  a  heavy  expense  to  suppress  •  the  rebellion. 
The  only  parties  who  profit  by  the  pronunciamento  are 
those  who  get  up  the  scheme  and  the  leader  of  the 
forces  in  rebellion.  The  men  forced  into  the  army  of 
the  pronunciados,  and  the  regular  troops  of  the  Repub- 
lic, are  the  victims  who  meet  death  every  time  these 
outbreaks  occur.  This  game  has  been  played  over 
and  over,  year  after  year,  at  the  expense  of  every 
administration,  legitimate  or  otherwise,  which  has  held 
power  at  the  time.  It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that 
the  rich  grow  richer,  and  the  poor  poorer,  year  by  year, 
under  such  a  state  of  things,  and  that  legitimate  trade 
and  industry  are  finally  crushed  out  and  disappear. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

FKOM  ZAPOTLAN  TO  GUADALAJAKA. 

~TT7~E  were  under  a  cloud,  as  it  were,  in  Zapotlan, 
*  where  we  arrived  somewhat  unexpectedly,  in 
advance  of  the  time  which  had  been  fixed  upon  by  the 
population,  and  the  reception  of  Mr.  Seward,  though 
hospitable,  lacked  the  warmth  and  enthusiasm  we  had 
noticed  elsewhere  on  our  trip.  We  left  Zapotlan  on 
the  17th  of  October,  therefore,  with  no  feelings  of  re- 
gret, even  in  view  of  the  fact,  that  by  prolonging  our 
stay  a  few  days  we  might  have  been  enabled  to  "  assist " 
at  the  bull-fights,  which  were  to  last  a  full  week,  and 
for  which  a  large  amphitheatre  was  being  erected, 
and  extensive  preparations  making.  The  bull-fights 
were  to  be  followed  by  cock-fights,  on  a  grand  scale. 
It  is  a  little  singular  that  the  people  of  the  towns  where 
the  festivals  of  the  Saints  are  celebrated  with  the  great- 
est furore,  take  the  most  delight  in  the  cruel  and  de- 
moralizing amusements  of  the  bull-ring  and  the  cock- 
pit, but  it  is  true  nevertheless.  Zapotlan  is  a  good 
illustration  of  the  union  of  piety  and  brutality.  Zaca- 
tecas  and  several  other  States  have  by  legislative  enact- 
ment abolished  bull-fights,  but  in  Jalisco  they  are  still 
the  popular  amusement. 

As  we  advanced  into  the  interior  we  continued  to 
ascend  the  spurs  of  the  Sierre  Madre,  until  we  had 
reached  a  point  twenty  miles  north-eastward  from  Za- 


00  CROSSES    BY    THE   ROADSIDE. 

potlan,  when  we  found  ourselves  upon  the  summit  of  a 
range  of  broken  mountains,  in  a  locality  famous  for  its 
brigandage.  The  bandits,  who  have  been  so  relentlessly 
pursued  and  are  now  being  exterminated,  formerly, 
rarely  allowed  a  traveler  to  pass  this  point  unrobbed. 
All  along  the  road  from  Zapotlan,  we  had  noticed  large 
wooden  crosses  by  the  roadside.  Each  of  these  crosses 
bore  an  inscription  giving  the  date  of  the  murder  of 
some  traveler  by  the  brigands,  and  such  facts  as  might 
be  known  concerning  him,  with  a  request  for  travelers 
to  pray  for  the  repose  of  his  soul.  These  crosses  were, 
in  nearly  every  case,  adorned  with  fresh  flowers,  though 
they  were  often  of  great  age,  judging  by  their  weather- 
stained  and  moss-grown  condition. 

From  passages  in  Byron's  Childe  Harold,  we  learn 
that  this  custom  is  observed  all  over  Spain,  and  I  know, 
from  personal  observation,  that  it  is  common  in  all  Span- 
ish America.  In  the  Apache  Country  of  Arizona,  I 
have  many  times  seen  the  poor  Mexican  miners  stay  for 
hours,  to  erect  a  rude  cross  of  stone  over  the  remains  of 
some  victim  of  the  relentless  savages,  although  they 
were  personally  unacquainted  with  him,  and  knew 
naught  of  his  history,  only  judging  by  his  appearance 
that  he  was  a  Christian. 

These  gentlemen  of  the  road  are  still  numerous  and 
daring.  Only  quite  recently  they  kidnapped  a  gentle- 
man at  night  in  the  streets  of  Zapotlan,  and  run  him  off 
to  the  mountains,  where  they  kept  him  prisoner  until 
his  friends  raised  and  forwarded  to  them  one  thousand 
dollars  in  coin ;  and  a  few  days  before,  they  attacked 
and  routed  the  guard  accompanying  the  brother  of  Mr. 
Oetling,  North  German  Consul  at  Colima,  within  a  few 
miles  of  Seyula,  and  he  only  saved  himself  by  the  fleetness 


A   LAND    OF    BKIGAKDS. 


97 


of  his  horse.  The  members  of  the  fraternity  who  have 
been  made  prisoners  and  executed,  acknowledged  their 
guilt,  and  admitted  that  they  were  connected  with  a 
band  which  had  ramifications  throughout  the  Central 
States  of  the  Eepublic,  and  kept  regular  accounts  of 
their  profits  and  losses,  and  made  dividends  to  the 
stockholders  on  the  best  and  most  liberal  commercial 
system.  But  the  Republic  and  the  several  States  are 


HACIENDA   IN   THE  MOUNTAINS   OF  JALISCO. 


V 

now  actively  at  work  in  conjunction,  and  it  is  "  short 
shrift  and  a  long  rope  "  whenever  they  catch  any  of  the 
precious  rascals. 

From  the  summit  of  the  range  which  we  had  been 
ascending  all  the  morning,  we  looked  down  at  11  A.  M., 
on  a  scene  of  infinite  beauty,  and  almost  unlimited  ex- 
tent.    Spreading  out  from  the  base  of  the  hills  on  which 
7 


98  A    MAGNIFICENT    VALLEY. 

we  stood,  to  the  very  limit  of  the  vision  in  the  east- 
ward, was  a  magnificent  valley,  divided  into  farms  with 
neat  hedges  and  fences,  and  dotted  with  mesquite  and 
other  trees,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  one  vast  or- 
chard and  garden.  Fields  of  tall  corn,  now  almost  ripe 
for  the  harvest,  waved  through  all  the  valley,  and  here 
and  there  the  white  walls  and  red  roofs  of  large,  hacien- 
das and  village  churches  were  seen  through  the  embow- 
ering foliage.  Far  away,  in  the  north-east,  were  the 
mountains  which  cut  off  the  valley  from  Lake  Chapala, 
and  northward  rose  a  range  of  magnificent  mountains — 
a  spur  of  the  great  Sierra  Madre — green  to  the  summit, 
and  checkered,  here  and  there,  with  lighter  green  fields 
of  corn.  The  long  Laguna  de  Seyula  stretched  through 
the  valley  on  its  north-eastward  side,  and  villages  could 
be  seen  all  along  its  banks.  The  bright  sun  shone 
down  on  all  this  peaceful  scene,  as  it  does  in  June  in 
the  United  States,  and  the  dark  shadows  of  the  flying 
clouds  drifted  like  the  moving  figures  of  a  panorama 
over  valley,  village,  and  mountain.  But  for  brigands, 
and  revolutions,  and  foreign  invasions,  this  would  be  an 
earthly  paradise— 

"A  right  good  land  to  live  in, 
And  a  pleasant  land  to  see." 

We  descended,  at  a  gallop,  into'the  valley  of  Seyula, 
the  long  line  of  our  military  escort,  with  their  dashy 
uniforms  and  glistening  muskets,  stretching  far  out  in 
the  rear,  and  passed  through  a  small  village,  inhabited 
mostly  by  people  of  Indian  descent,  who  regarded  us 
with  unrestrained  curiosity,  but  great  respect,  doffing 
their  hats  and  saluting  us  with  the  pleasant  compli- 
ments of  the  country,  as  we  passed. 


OUR    WELCOME    AT    SEYULA.  99 

At  a  second  village,  we  came  unexpectedly  upon  a 
collection  of  eight  or  ten  elegant  carriages — regular 
New  York  turn-outs — drawn  up  in  a  line,  and  fifty 
horsemen,  magnificently  mounted,  their  saddles  being 
of  the  costliest  pattern  and  glittering  all  over  with  sil- 
ver, formed  in  double  column.  Instantly,  the  bells  of  a 
little  church  rang  out  a  joyous  peal,  unusual  on  a  Sab- 
bath-day,  and  as  the  coach  stopped,  the  horsemen  ad- 
vanced and  sat  with  uncovered  heads,  while  their 
spokesman  informed  Mr.  Seward,  that  they  came  on 
behalf  of  the  Government  and  people  of  the  State  of 
Jalisco,  and  the  authorities  and  residents  of  Seyula,  to 
welcome  him  to  their  State  and  town,  offer  him  an  hum- 
ble dinner,  and  the  hospitalities  of  the  place  for  as  long 
a  time  as  he  chose  to  abide  with  them.  Mr.  Seward 
replied  as  briefly  and  heartily  as  possible,  and  leaving 
the  stage  and  entering  the  carriages,  the  party  started 
off  with  the  double  escort  at  full  speed  for  Seyula,  five 
miles  distant. 

Arriving  at  the  town,  we  found  all  the  population 
out  to  meet  us,  and  from  every  door  and  window,  and 
every  accessible  spot  on  the  sidewalks,  respectful  salu- 
tations greeted  the  strangers  from  the  North.  Dark 
eyes  and  red  lips,  such  as  we  saw  but  seldom  in  the 
"  Tierra  Caliente,"  smiled  welcome  upon  us,  and  as  the 
carriages  rolled  into  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  the  ringing  of 
bells,  firing  of  cannon,  strains  of  martial  music,  and 
vivas  of  the  populace,  added  emphasis  to  the  greeting. 
Through  a  double  file  of  well-dressed  and  intelligent- 
looking  citizens,  then  through  the  portal  lined  with 
swarthy  soldiers  presenting  arms,  the  party  passed  into 
the  great  paved  court-yard  of  the  Casa  Grande  of  Sey- 
ula, and  entering  the  parlor  of  the  house  were  made  at 
home,  at  once. 


100  THE  WINES    OF    MEXICO. 

The  presentations  over,  we  were  invited  into  the 
hall,  where  breakfast — it  was  a  grand  dinner  in  fact 
—was  spread,  and  the  tables  were  speedily  filled, 
all  the  places  not  occupied  by  our  party  being  taken  by 
the  citizens  and  accompanying  ladies,  while  a  swarm  of 
servants  and  citizens  waited  upon  them.  It  is  the 
fashion,  in  Mexico,  to  change  the  plates  of  the  guests 
with  every  dish,  and  plate  followed  plate  in  rapid  suc- 
cession, until  we  were  surfeited.  Wines,  too,  were  there 
in  abundance,  and  the  best  of  all  was  the  dark,  rich, 
fruity,  and  oily  product  of  the  grape  of  Seyula,  resem- 
bling Malaga  of  the  finest  quality,  which  it  fully  equals, 
if  it  does  not  actually  excel. 

We  were  now,  for  the  first  time,  in  the  grape-produc- 
ing region  of  Mexico,  and  our  first  introduction  to  its 
wines  was  an  agreeable  one,  indeed.  Fraternity  and 
good  feeling  were  the  order  of  the  day.  What  sur- 
prised us  most,  was  the  fact,  that  these  people  had  only 
heard  of  the  coming  of  the  party  six  hours  previously, 
and  that  this  whole  demonstration  was  thoroughly  im- 
promptu. I  doubt  if  any  town  in  the  United  States  of 
the  same,  or  even  twice  the  population,  could,  or  would 
do  as  much  in  thrice  the  time,  for  the  President  himself; 
and  all  this  was  for  merely  a  distinguished  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  and  friend  of  Mexico. 

When  the  solid  viands  had  been  removed,  Enfraus 
Carison,  Political  Prefect  of  Seyula,  arose  and  read  a 
warm  address  of  welcome.  Jose  G.  Arroyo,  a  young 
representative  of  the  press  of  Guadalajara,  followed  in 
an  impassioned  and  truly  eloquent  and  patriotic  ad- 
dress, and  others  followed  in  like  manner.  Mr.  Seward 
made  a  brief  reply,  in  terms  similar  to  those  of  his 
speech  at  Colima,  and  his  remarks  being  interpreted  to 


INTERESTING    SCHOOL   EXHIBITION.  101 

the  audience   by  Sen  or   Canedo,  were   enthusiastically 
applauded. 

It  was  then  announced  that  the  annual  conferring  of 
rewards  in  one  of  the  public  schools  in  Seyula,  which 
was  going  on  when  we  arrived,  had  been  suspended 
for  the  time,  in  order  that  Mr.  Seward  might  be  pres- 
ent. Repairing  to  the  school-house — there  are  four  in 
this  old  town  of  eight  thousand  inhabitants — we  found 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  boys  and  two  hun- 
dred girls,  arranged  in  the  two  wings  of  the  building, 
the  sexes  being  seated  separately.  All  arose  at  our  en- 
trance and  bowed  politely,  remaining  standing  until  re- 
quested to  be  seated.  The  furniture  of  the  school-room 
was  scant,  and  of  the  plainest  kind,  and  the  children, 
mostly,  very  plainly  dressed ;  but  they  looked  cheerful 
and  intelligent,  and  all  were  perfectly  neat  and  clean. 
There  were  all  colors  and  shades  of  colors  among  the 
pupils,  but  there  was  no  distinction  of  class  or  condi- 
tion, so  far  as  their  treatment  and  conduct  toward  each 
other  went. 

A  bright,  manly  little  fellow,  Lorenzo  Yillalbazo, 
aged  twelve  years,  came  forward,  and  read  in  a  loud, 
clear  voice,  an  address  which  had  been  delivered  at 
Guadalajara  by  an  eminent  friend  of  education ;  and 
Amanda  Ron,  Reyrnunda  Villalbazo,  and  Geronima  Or- 
tega, aged  eleven,  twelve,  and  thirteen  years  respect- 
ively, followed  with  readings  of  selections  copied  by 
themselves.  Their  reading  was  equally  faultless,  and 
could  not  well  be  improved.  I  noticed  that  in  each  se- 
lection, special  reference  was  made  to  the  public  schools 
of  the  "  great  and  powerful  Estados  Unidos  del  Norte  " 
as  the  source  of  our  strength  and  glory,  but  was  told 
that  the  selections  had  not  been  made  with  reference  to 
our  being;  present,  as  we  had  not  been  expected. 


102      SUNDAY    EVENING    BALL A   MEXICAN    BEAUTY. 

The  distribution  of  prizes,  silver  coins  with  tri-col- 
ored — green,  white  and  red — ribbons,  followed.  I  no- 
ticed that  a  majority  of  the  prizes  were  carried  off  by 
children  of  full  Indian  blood,  and  one  of  the  highest 
was  taken  by  a  young  Indian  woman  of  seventeen 
years,  whose  scant,  but  scrupulously  neat  apparel  indi- 
cated, unmistakably,  that  she  was  the  daughter  of  peo- 
ple in  very  poor  circumstances. 

I  am  surprised  at  the  excellence  of  the  public  schools 
of  Mexico,  when  I  remember  how  recently  they  were 
called  into  existence,  and,  even  more  so,  at  the  bright 
intelligence  and  excellent  deportment  of  the  pupils. 
On  the  streets,  the  children  of  Mexico  are  patterns  of 
good  behavior,  and  the  rowdy  element,  so  painfully  ap- 
parent among  the  youth  of  our  Northern  cities,  is 
wholly  absent  here. 

Seyula  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  of  Mexico,  and 
boasts  of  a  number  of  churches  quite  out  of  propor- 
tion to  its  population.  Some  of  these  we  visited.  We 
found  one  of  them,  though  plain  outside,  a  magnificent 
structure  inside,  with  long  rows  of  pillars  and  vaulted 
ceiling,  painted  in  rich  fresco  designs  beautifully  exe- 
cuted. 

The  inhabitants  of  Seyula,  not  to  be  outdone  by 
those  of  more  pretentious  towns,  got  up  a  select  dan- 
cing party  in  the  evening,  in  honor  of  .their  visitors,  and 
among  the  dancers  I  noticed  an  unusual  number  of  fine- 
looking  men  and  beautiful  women,  of  the  pure,  or 
nearly  pure,  Spanish  type.  One  of  these,  Dolores  Mora, 
daughter  of  the  paymaster  of  the  State  Guard  of  Ja- 
lisco, then  in  the  field  against  the  bandits,  was  a  perfect 
beauty,  and  would  have  been  a  belle  in  any  ball- 
room in  Christendom.  A  full,  round  face,  soft,  dark- 


BIRDS    OF   THE   TROPICS.  103 

brown  hair,  large,  lustrous,  black  eyes,  complexion 
just  tinged  with  the  hue  of  the  olive,  cheeks  like  the 
ripe,  red  peach,  bright  red  lips,  contrasting  with  the 
pearly  teeth,  and  a  slender,  petite  figure,  moving  with  a 
willowy  grace  through  the  dreamily  voluptuous  mazes 
of  the  danza ;  in  all  the  store-house  of  my  memory 
there  is  not  a  sweeter  picture  than  that. 

At  midnight  we  retired  to  rest,  and  all  night  long, 
heard  the  strains  of  soft  music  from  harp,  and  guitar, 
and  violin,  which  told  us  that  the  festivities  still  went  on. 

At  day-break,  as  usual,  we  were  off  again  on  our 
journey.  Our  road  all  day — about  thirty  miles — lay 
along  the  margin  of  the  Laguna  de  Seyula,  and  be- 
tween fields  of  tall  corn,  sugar-cane,  beans,  red  pepper, 
<fec.,  <fec.,  surrounded  by  high  fences  of  solid  stone, 
mostly  of  lava  formation.  The  roads  were  heavy  with 
mud  from  the  recent  rains,  and  our  progress  very  slow. 
The  lake,  swollen  by  the  storm — was  from  three  to  six 
miles  wide  and  thirty  long.  Geese,  and  little  white 
cranes,  curlew,  plover,  ducks,  <fec.,  abounded  along  the 
shores,  and  great  flocks  of  pink-hued  birds,  resembling 
flamingoes,  were  seen  from  time  to  time.  We  saw  two 
bright  red  birds,  called  "cardinals,"  perched  on  the 
tops  of  the  great  "  pitilla,"  Cactus,  which  here  forms  a 
prominent  feature  in  the  vegetation;  the  castor-bean, 
which  here  becomes  a  permanent  and  beautiful  tree, 
was  seen  all.  along  the  road,  and  the  tree-cotton — a  cot-- 
ton-plant entirely  unlike  that  of  our  Southern  States,, 
really  a  tree — abounded.  The  mountain  sides  were 
everywhere  patched  with  fields  of  corn  and  barley — the 
first  ripe  and  the  latter  two-thirds  grown — far  up 
towards  their  summits. 

Villages,  inhabited  by  working-people  of  Indian  de- 


104  INDIAN    VILLAGES. 

scent  were  frequent.  At  one  of  these,  called  Techa- 
luta,  we  were  met  by  a  company  with  a  fine  brass-band 
—every  little  hamlet  in  the  country  has  one — and  men 
with  rockets,  who  played,  and  fired  rockets  as  long  as 
we  were  in  sight.  They  had  no  flags,  but  had  stretched 
every  handkerchief  and  piece  of  bright-colored  goods 
in  the  town,  on  lines  across  the  street ;  and  a  horseman, 
dashing  up  to  the  carriage,  threw  in  an  address  of  the 
most  progressive  republican  fraternity  type,  addressed 
to  Mr.  Seward  and  signed  by  the  principal  men  of  the 
municipality.  At  another  Indian  village,  Guamacate, 
we  obtained  a  breakfast  of  tortillas,  chicken,  and  fri- 
joles  in  abundance  for  fourteen  persons,  all  for  one  dol- 
lar and  a  half.  The  same  fare  would  have  cost  us  in 
New  York  two  dollars  each. 

At  2  1-2  o'clock  P.  M.  we  reached  the  end  of  our  day's 
journey  at  the  village  of  Zacoalco,  and  were  met  outside 
of  the  town  by  thirty  finely  mounted  men,  as  at  Seyula, 
and  escorted  to  our  lodgings  in  a  large,  cool,  roomy 
house,  surrounding  a  square  area  filled  with  tropical 
trees  and  flowers.  The  military  guard  of  the  town 
were  drawn  up  at  the  gate- way  to  receive  us,  and  the 
entire  population  was  gathered  in  the  vicinity.  We 
were  now  at  the  head  of  the  Laguna  de  Seyula,  and  at 
the  commencement  of  the  Laguna  de  Zacoalco.  From 
the  shores  of  the  lake  at  Seyula,  is  taken  the  soda-earth 
used  in  making  soap  all  over  this  part  of  Mexico.  From 
its  waters,  salt  of  a  fair  quality  for  mining  purposes  is 
manufactured ;  and  the  owner  of  the  lake,  Sen  or  Es- 
candon  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  derives  from  it  a  revenue 
of  sixty  thousand  dollars  per  annum,  though  it  is  but 
carelessly  administered. 

The  valley  is  dotted  all  over  with  the  bean-bearing 


RECEPTION    AT    ZACOALCO.  105 

mesquite  trees,  and  on  them  grows  a  variety  of 
parasites — the  inisletoe  and  a  similar  parasite  plant — 
bearing  bright  scarlet  blossoms  in  wonderful  profusion. 
The  variety  and  beauty  of  the  flowers  are  so  great  as 
to  be  beyond  the  power  of  description.  Even  the  best 
educated  residents  of  the  country  do  not  know  the 
names  of  half  the  flowers  we  saw  by  the  roadside. 
Twenty  leagues  is  the  distance  from  Zacoalco  to  the 
great  city  of  Guadalajara,  where  we  were  to  rest  on 
our  journey  for  a  week,  or  more. 

We  left  Seyula,  under  the  impression  that  at  Zaco- 
alco we  should  rest  in  peace,  with  no  serious  demon- 
strations, the  place  being  represented  as  extremely  dull. 
,  We  were  therefore  much  surprised  to  find  the  town 
of  some  fifteen  thousand  people,  wide-awake,  and 
determined  not  to  be  behind  the  other  little  cities  of 
the  State  of  Jalisco,  in  its  hospitalities.  We  were  in- 
vited at  8  p.  M.  to  participate  in  a  dinner,  which  for 
completeness  and  sumptuousness  in  all  its  details,  could 
not  be  excelled  at  the  finest  hotel  in  New- York  with 
every  preparation,  and  found  a  number  of  prominent 
citizens  of  the  place  in  attendance,  anxious  to  do  the 
honors  of  the  table  in  the  most  creditable  manner. 
They  did  it.  After  dinner,  the  company  returned  to  the 
parlor,  where  addresses,  fervid,  eloquent,  and  patriotic, 
were  delivered  by  the  Political  Prefect  and  other  lead- 
ing citizens.  Mr.  Seward  responded,  in  terms  similar 
to  those  of  his  previous  speeches,  and  his  remarks  being 
translated  by  Senor  Caiiedo,  were  warmly  applauded. 
Music  and  singing  followed,  and  it  was  midnight  before 
one  of  the  most  pleasant  reunions  we  attended  in  Mex- 
ico finally  broke  up. 

At  6  A.  M.  on  Tuesday,  the  bugles  of  the  military  ee- 


106  BATTLE   FIELD    OF    LA    CORONEA. 

cort  sounded  the  advance,  and  the  long  train  was  off  for 
Guadalajara ;  just  as  the  first  rays  of  the  warm  Autumn 
sun  of  the  tropics  gilded  the  tall  towers  of  the  grand 
old  Church  of  Zacoalco — towers  which  have  looked 
down  on  the  gray-walled  town  unchanged  for  three 
hundred  years — kissed  the  placid  waters  of  the  Laguna 
de  Zacoalco,  and  crowned  with  glory  the  grand,  old, 
green-clad  mountains  which  surround  the  ever-beautiful 
valley. 

Half-a-dozen  miles  from  Zacoalco,  we  ascended  a  steep 
hill  of  volcanic  origin,  and  came  upon  the  battle-field 
of  La  Coronea.  Here,  the  Imperialists  sent  out  by  Max- 
imilian, to  prevent  the  Republican  Army  of  the  West 
commanded  by  Gen.  Ramon  Corona  advancing  from 
Sinaloa,  from  uniting  with  those  of  Escobedo  who  com. 
manded  the  Army  of  the  North  before  Queretaro,  were 
strongly  intrenched  on  the  summit  of  the  broken,  irreg- 
ular hills,  with  stone  walls  in  front.  The  position  com- 
manded the  road  on  both  sides  and  is  naturally  a  strong 
one ;  but  the  tide  of  war  had  turned ;  the  ragged  Chin- 
acos,  who  at  first  were  demoralized  in  presence  of  the 
better  drilled  and  better  armed  French,  Belgian  .and 
Austrian  mercenaries,  had  learned  from  experience  how 
to  fight  them,  and  the  foreign  invaders  were  themselves 
demoralized  and  disheartened.  Corona's  forces  carried 
the  position  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  and  the  Impe- 
rialists were  utterly  routed,  the  entire  force  being  killed 
or  made  prisoners.  Escobedo  had  already  routed  and 
scattered  like  chaff  the  Imperialist  Army  of  the  North 
under  Miramon,  at  Zacatecas,  and  was  laying  siege  to 
Queretaro.  Corona  arrived  before  the  doomed  city  just 
in  time  to  participate  in  the  most  desperate  portion  of 
the  contest. 


GENERAL   ANGEL   MARTINEZ.  107 

When  the  last  desperate  sortie  was  made  by  Maximil- 
ian with  the  hope  of  cutting  his  way  out  and  escaping  to 
the  Pacific  coast,  via  Morelia,  Corona's  division  caught 
the  full  weight  of  the  blow,  and  was  savagely  handled 
and  cut  to  pieces ;  but  the  delay  was  fatal,  though  the 
sortie  had  become  an  almost  insured  success,  for  it  ena- 
bled the  Republicans  to  rally  to  the  rescue  just  in  time. 
Escobedo's  victorious  army  came  up,  and,  falling  upon 
the  Imperialist  forces,  rolled  them  back  in  utter  rout 
within  their  intrenchments,  and  from  that  time  forth, 
the  fate  of  the  Empire  and  of  Maximilian  was  sealed. 

Among  the  most  daring,  active,  and  determined  of 
the  officers  in  General  Corona's  command,  was  General 
Angel  Martinez,  a  native  of  Sinaloa,  and  commander 
of  a  brigade  noted  for  its  rough  style  of  fighting  and 
defective  outfit.  This  dashing  officer,  with  the  most 
inadequate  means,  accomplished  important  results  and 
contributed  much  to  the  overthrow  of  the  Imperial 
cause  in  the  North-west.  His  enemies  nicknamed  him 
"  El  Machetero"  from  the  machete  or  short  sword — the 
favorite  weapon  of  his  followers — a  weapon  which  he 
himself  wielded  with  terrible  effect  on  more  than  one 
occasion.  When  Corona  was  holding  the  French  in 
Mazatlan,  after  the  terrible  defeats  he  gave  them  at  the 
Presidio  of  Mazatlan  and  Palos  Prietos,  Martinez  en- 
tered Sonora,  and  swept  it  like  a  whirlwind ;  nothing 
escaped  him  in  the  field,  and  the  hurried  evacuation  of 
Guaymas  by  the  French  at  his  approach,  alone  saved  a 
remnant  of  the  force  from  utter  extermination. 

In  one  of  the  battles,  near  Hermosillo,  the  forces  of 
the  Imperialist  butcher,  General  Lanberg,  who  was  the 
perpetrator  of  the  wholesale  massacre  of  La  Noria,  were 
cut  to  pieces,  and  Lanberg,  himself,  lassoed  and  pulled 


108  A    TERRIBLE   PUN. 

out  of  the  saddle,  with  a  jork  which  broke  his  neck,  by 
one  of  Martinez's  subalterns.  War  to  the  death  had 
been  proclaimed  on  both  sides,  and  no  quarter  was 
given  or  asked. 

One  day  in  1809,  the  writer  was  standing  on  Mont- 
gomery street  in  San  Francisco,  conversing  with  General 
Martinez  and  others,  when  the  subject  turned  on  the 
languages  which  each  spoke,  or  did  not  speak.  One 
could  speak  Spanish,  English  and  French ;  another  Ger- 
man, English  and  French,  and  so  on.  One  of  the  party 
deprecatingly  remarked  that  his  Spanish  was  deficient, 
but  added,  "  I  have  managed  to  wade  through  a  good 
deal  of  French  in  my  life-time."  "  What  does  he  say  ? " 
asked  the  General  quickly.  The  remark  was  translated 
to  him  literally,  when  he  instantly  lifted  his  hat  with  a 
polite  bow,  and  responded,  "  Yo  tambien  Senor!"  (I 
also  Sir !)  It  was,  all  things  considered,  the  most  ter- 
rible pun  I  ever  heard  uttered. 

For  twenty  miles,  our  road  led  us  along  the  shores 
of  the  Laguna  de  Zacoalco,  a  part  of  the  time  Avith  the  La- 
guna  de  Seyula  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  tongue  of  land 
on  which  we  traveled.  The  soil  was  for  the  most  part 
coarse  and  gravelly,  and  the  country  little  cultivated. 
The  mountains,  though  covered  with  dense  verdure, 
were  composed  almost  wholly  of  old  lava,  and  all  the 
fences  along  the  roadside  were  built  of  the  same  mate- 
rial, in  fact,  this  entire  country  is  of  comparatively  re- 
cent volcanic  origin.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  Laguna 
de  Zacoalco,  we  passed  near  the  water-side  for  miles. 
Great  cane-brakes  came  up  to  the  road  in  many  places, 
and,  growing  by  the  edge  of  the  water,  we  saw  thou- 
sands of  beautiful  pink  and  spotted  lilies,  richly  fra- 
grant, and  much  like  the  Japanese  lily  in  appearance. 


SANTA    ANNA   ACATLAN.  109 

Many  species  of  birds,  unlike  those  of  the  United 
States,  were  seen  all  along  the  shores  of  the  lake. 
Among  them  were  flocks  of  large  pink  birds,  which  in 
the  distance  appeared  to  me  like  the  ibis.  I  also  no- 
ticed the  "wandering  ibis  "  of  Audubon,  and  the  "  Great 
Whooping  Crane,"  snow  white,  except  two  bars  of 
black  on  the  wings,  with  black  legs,  red  spots  on  the 
top  of  the  head,  and  black  bill.  This  crane  is  occa- 
sionally killed  in  Illinois  and  other  western  states, 
and  was  confounded  by  Audubon  with  the  sand-hill 
Crane  of  the  west,  he  supposing  it  to  be  the  old  bird 
of  that  species.  There  was  also  a  large  crane  with  snow 
white  body  and  jet-black  wings,  of  which  I  once  killed 
a  single  specimen  north  of  the  Bio  Grande,  in  Texas, 
the  small  white  crane  of  the  west,  and  swarms  of  birds 
of  the  curlew  and  plover  species,  quite  new  to  me, 
though  I  am  familiar  with  the  birds  of  all  parts  of  the 
United  States. 

At  10*  o'clock,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Santa 
Anna  Acatlan,  where  we  breakfasted  at  a  Mexican 
fonda,  or  hotel,  the  first  we  had  visited  in  Mexico.  Our 
table  was  set  in  the  corridor,  opening  on  the  square 
area,  or  patio,  in  the  center  of  the  establishment,  and 
adjoining  the  kitchen.  Everything  came  upon  the  ta- 
ble in  excellent  order,  clean  and  well  cooked.  It  is  a 
singular  fact  that  in  Mexico  one  never  sees  a  badly- 
cooked  dish.  Such  a  thing  as  a  joint  of  meat  coming 
upon  the  table  half-raw,  is  wholly  unknown  here. 
There  are  many  people  who  adhere  to  the  belief,  that 
when  modern  "  improved  "  cooking-stoves  came  into  use 
in  the  United  States,  and  the  old-fashioned  bake-ovens 
disappeared,  good  cookery  vanished  with  them,  and 
I  am  more  than  half  inclined  to  admit  that  they  are 


110  A    MEXICAN    FONDA. 

right.  These  Mexicans  who  have  only  earthern  ovens 
and  stoves,  utterly  unlike  anything  ever  seen  in  our 
country,  and  not  a  single  iron  dish,  all  being  of  the 
light  glazed,  brown  earthemware  of  the  country,  con- 
trive to  cook  twenty  times  as  great  a  variety  of  dishes 
as  we  are  able  to  compound,  and  what  is  more,  cook 
them  all  to  perfection.  On  the  whole,  I  don't  think  we 
know  anything  about  cooking  in  the  United  States. 

The  charges  at  these  Mexican  "  fondas  "  are  quite  rea- 
sonable ;  say  twelve  and  a  half  to  twenty-five  cents,  at 
the  outside,  for  a  "  square  meal,"  and  lodgings,  such  as 
they  are,  at  a  nominal  cost.  They  do  not  usually  pro- 
vide beds,  the  travelers  carrying  blankets,  or  mattresses, 
with  them ;  and  as  the  beds  are  not  unlikely  to  be  a 
little  too  much  crowded  for  comfort  when  they  are  fur- 
nished, it  is  better  to  carry  your  own  sleeping  outfit 
with  you. 

From  the  hill  above  Santa  Anna  Acatlan,  we  had  a 
fine  view  of  the  immense  Hacienda  del  Plan,  th*e  largest 
and  finest  sugar  estate  in  the  State  of  Jalisco.  The 
house  stands  upon  a  hill  overlooking  the  Laguna  de 
Zacoalco,  and  is  surrounded  by  the  sugar-works  and 
other  buildings,  with  vast  fields  of  sugar-cane,  now  two- 
thirds  grown — it  requires  from  one  year  to  fourteen 
months  to  come  to  full  maturity — in  all  directions. 
The  house  is  like  a  great  square  castle  in  appearance, 
with  columns  and  verandah  all  around,  and  looks  like 
a  fit  place  for  the  residence  of  a  prince. 

From  this  estate,  a  large  part  of  the  great  State  of 
Jalisco,  which  has  nine  hundred  thousand  inhabitants, 
or  more  than  any  other  in  Mexico,  derives  its  supply  of 
sugar,  and  its  products  are  sent  even  as  far  north  as  the 
Rio  Grande.  It  belongs  to  Senor  Ramos,  one  of  the 


STKANGE    SIGHTS    ON   THE   KOAD.  Ill 

wealthiest  land  owners  in  Mexico.  The  grand  canal, 
miles  in  length,  and  of  solid  masonry,  through  which 
the  water  is  carried  for  irrigating  this  estate,  cost  in 
itself  a  colossal  fortune,  and  the  sugar-mills  and  other 
improvements  must  have  required  an.outlay  of  a  million 
dollars,  at  least.  As  it  was  a  little  distance  from 
our  road,  we  did  not  visit  it. 

After  leaving  Santa  Anna  Acatlan,  we  passed 
through  a  better  cultivated  country  for  some  miles,  and 
then  entered  a  pass  through  the  mountains  to  the  north- 
eastward, which  led  us  into  the  Valley  of  Guadalajara. 
Passing  through  one  Indian  village,  we  saw  a  number 
of  men  and  women  kneeling  in  groups  by  the  roadside 
and  looking  imploringly  at  the  carriage,  but  they  did 
not  speak  or  hold  out  their  hands  like  beggars,  and  we 
were  unable  to  form  any  idea  of  their  object.  They 
remained  kneeling  and  regarding  us  in  silence  as  long 
as  we  were  in  sight.  There  was  something  unnat- 
ural and  painful  to  me  in  the  spectacle  of  those  men 
and  women  thus  kneeling  on  the  earth,  in  silent  suppli- 
cations, as  if  they  had  mistaken  the  party  for  visitors 
from  heaven  instead  of  another  country,  and  I  would 
be  sorry  to  see  it  repeated. 

We  saw  another  strange  sight  next  day.  Indian 
men  and  women,  walking  by  the  roadside,  carrying 
great  burthens  on  their  backs,  three  hundred  or  four 
hundred  pounds  weight  of  coarse  earthernware  or  other 
articles,  in  long  wicker  baskets,  and  braiding  straw 
hats,  or  knitting  fine  embroidery  as  they  moved  along, 
bending  beneath  their  loads.  Of  this  embroidery  I 
shall  speak  again  hereafter. 

Our  road  continued  to  be  fearfully  cut  up,  and  heavy 
from  the  recent  rains,  and  our  progress  slow.  We  were 


112  TEQUILA SOMETHING   VEKY   CHOICE. 

now  in  a  country  where  the  freighting  business  is  car- 
ried on,  mostly,  with  heavy  wagons  and  heavier  ox-carts 
with  enormous  wheels  of  wood,  with  wooden  axles  and 
no  felloes,  the  whole  middle  of  the  wheel  being  filled  with 
a  solid  block  of  heavy  wood.  The  oxen  are  yoked  by 
the  head  instead  of  the  neck,  and  driven,  half  a  dozen 
yokes  to  a  single  cart,  like  mules  before  a  wagon.  The 
wives,  and  often  the  children,  of  the  cart-drivers  ac- 
company them  on  their  long  journeys  from  city  to  city, 
and  one  of  their  camps  by  the  roadside  is  a  little  vil- 
lage in  itself.  The  poor  people  of  the  villages  along 
the  route  live,  to  a  considerable  extent,  by  supplying 
these  teamsters  and  other  travelers  with  articles  of 
food,  cheese,  fruit,  cigarritos,  matches,  and  ardent  spir- 
its. A  bottle  of  the  fiery  liquid  distilled  from  the 
mescal  plant,  otherwise  called  the  "  American  aloe,"  or 
"  century  plant,"  which  blossoms  in  this  latitude  in  five 
to  seven  years  from  planting,  instead  of  once  in  a  hun- 
dred, as  is  commonly  believed  at  the  North — called 
"  mescal" — is  sold  at  the  little  wayside  stands  for  six  and 
one-fourth  cents,  and  will  produce  as  much  drunken- 
ness as  a  barrel  of  North  American  whisky. 

There  is  a  superior  variety  of  the  mescal  produced 
near  Guadalajara,  and  called  after  the  village  in  wrhich 
it  is  made  "Tequila,"  (pronounced  Tekela.)  This 
costs  more,  and  is  sent  to  the  City  of  Mexico  and  else- 
where, as  something  very  choice  for  a  present  to  one's 
friends.  I  took  one  drink  of  it  under  the  supposition 
that  it  was  annisette,  or  some  other  light  liquor,  swal- 
lowing possibly  about  an  ounce,  druggist's  measure,  be- 
fore I  smelled  the  burning  flesh  as  the  lightning  de- 
scended my  throat.  As  I  sat  down  the  glass  my  head 
began  to  increase  in  size  so  rapidly,  that  I  saw  at  once, 


EFFECTS    OF   TAKING   A   DEINK. 


113 


that  unless  I  got  outside  immediately,  the  door  would 
be  too  small  to  admit  of  my  passing  thiough  it.  Seiz- 
ing my  hat  which  appeared  to  have  become  of  about 
the  size  of  an  ordinary  umbrella,  I  turned  it  up  edge- 
wise, and  succeeded  by  a  tight  squeeze  in  passing  it 
through  the  door;  the  street  then  appeared  funnel- 
shaped,  and  I  remember  an  odd  fancy  that  I  was  to  re- 
semble the  man  who  "  went  in  the  big  and  came  out  at 
the  little  end  of  the  horn."  Curiously  enough  my  legs 
decreased  in  size,  as  my  head  en- 
larged, and  my  last  recollection 
of  the  affair  is  that  my  person 
resembled  a  sugar  hogshead 
walking  off  on  two  straws : 
body  I  had  none.  No  more 
tequila  for  me,  please  ! 

The  teamsters  and  muleteers 
drink  this  clear,  colorless,  harm- 
less-looking concentrated  light- 
ning with  apparent  impunity ; 
but  a  single  bottle  of  it  will 
cause  a  rebellion  among  an  en- 
tire regiment  of  soldiers,  and 
very  likely  result  in  a  pronun- 
ciamento  on  the  spot.  Nevertheless,  the  ox  drivers, 
like  the  muleteers,  are  a  quiet,  well-behaved,  and  gen- 
erally honest  and  trustworthy  class  of  men,  quite  equal 
in  these  particulars  to  any  class  in  the  same  walks  of 
life  in  any  country. 

When  we  were  in  the  pass  through  the  hills,  between 
the    Valleys    of  Zacoalco  and  Guadalajara,  our   team 
went  down  in  a  mud-hole  of  unusual  depth  and  enor- 
mity, and  stayed  there  for  nearly  two  hours  before  it 
8 


A  SWELL-HEAD. 


114:  FIRST    VIEW    OF   GUADALAJARA. 

could  he  extricated.  When,  at  last,  we  passed  across 
to  rolling  and  but  sparsely  grassed  and  wooded  plains, 
resembling  those  of  Southern  California  in  appearance, 
with  numerous  villages,  each  with  its  great  house  and 
white-walled  church,  and  came  upon  the  edge  of  the 
table-land  overlooking  the  proud  City  of  Guadalajara, 
the  sun  was  just  going  down  in  the  west,  and  the  full 
round  moon  coming  above  thes  eastern  horizon.  What 
a  glorious  scene !  The  city,  white- walled  and  red- 
roofed,  with  its  numerous  churches,  and  immense  and 
magnificent  Cathedral  overtopping  all,  stood  out 
grandly  beautiful  in  the  double  light,  a  sight  to  look 
upon  and  admire,  and  to  exult  over  in  memory  hence- 
forth through  all  our  lives. 

At  a  little  town  three  or  four  m.iles  outside  the  walls 
of  Guadalajara,  we  met  a  line  of  light  carriages,  with 
an  escort  of  about  one  hundred  citizens,  splendidly 
mounted,  on  horseback,  with  the  Municipal  Council 
and  the  Secretary  of  Gov.  Cuervo,  and  others,  coming 
to  offer  the  hospitalities  of  the  city,  and  a  hearty  wel- 
come to  the  Capital  of  Jalisco. 

Entering  the  carriages,  we  were  driven  rapidly  toward 
the  city,  the  military  escort,  civil  police  in  uniform,  and 
mounted  citizens  forming  a  magnificent  cavalcade  nearly 
half  a  mile  in  length,  galloping  on  either  side.  As  we 
neared  the  walls,  the  roadside  was  lined  with  private 
carriages,  filled  with  the  beauty  and  fashion  of  the  city ; 
and  when  we  passed  through  the  barrier  and  dashed 
down  the  narrow,  well-paved  streets,  the  sidewalks  were 
crowded,  and  every  window  and  house-top  occupied. 
Beautiful  women  waved  their  handkerchiefs,  and  gave 
a  smiling  welcome  on  all  sides.  All  Guadalajara 
seemed  to  be  abroad  in  the  cool,  bright  evening,  all 


THE    CITY    BY    MOONLIGHT.  115 

pleased,  all   happy,  and  all   anxious   to  welcome  the 
strangers  from  the  North. 

We  were  driven  directly  to  a  house,  in  elegance  of 
appointment  the  counterpart  of  that  of  Senor  Huarte 
at  Colima,  but  on  a  much  grander  scale,  and  as  soon  as 
we  were  in  doors,  the  keys  were  presented  to  Mr.  Sew- 
ard,  and  the  whole  establishment  was  placed  at  his  dis- 
posal; he  was  told  to  consider  it  his  own,  and  each 
member  of  the  party  requested  to  order  what  he  de- 
sired, from  a  drink  of  water  to  a  carriage,  during  our 
stay.  With  the  exception  of  the  servants,  the  party 
were  the  sole  occupants  of  the  entire  premises,  and  we 
were  most  emphatically  "  at  home  "  for  the  week.  Gov. 
Cuervo,  with  much  consideration,  sent  word  that  as  we 
had  traveled  so  far,  and  must  be  very  weary,  he  would 
postpone  his  call  until  morning,  and  we  were  left  alone 
for  the  night !  And  such  a  night ! 

Dinner  over,  I  wandered  alone  out  into  the  streets, 
visited  the  grand  plaza,  and  saw  the  people  of  the  city, 
old  and  young,  rich  and  poor,  proud  and  lowly,  sitting 
on  the  seats  beneath  the  orange  trees,  conversing  and 
passing  the  time  happily  and  innocently  away,  myself 
alone,  of  all  the  crowd,  unknowing  and  unknown.  I 
heard  the  visit  of  Mr.  Seward  and  party  frequently 
mentioned,  and  some  curiosity  as  to  its  object  and  full 
purport  expressed ;  but  no  unkind  sentiments,  no  harsh 
suspicions  were  uttered  in  my  hearing,  and  there  seemed 
to  be  but  one  feeling  toward  the  visitors. 

In  this  proud  old  city,  the  source  of  unnumbered  rev- 
olutions and  pronuncialnentos  in  times  gone  by,  I  heard 
more  whisperings  of  love  than  talk  of  war  on  that  de- 
licious evening;  and  when  I  retired  to  rest,  the  soft, 
fragrant  air,  heavy  and  sensuous  with  the  breath  of 


116  THE    OLD,    OLD    SONG. 

flowers,  coming  in  through  the  open  window,  was  ac- 
companied by  the  music  of  the  light  guitar,  and  the 
sweet  voice  of  woman,  singing  the  old,  old  song,  from 
the  blossom-wreathed  balcony  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  street. 


CHAPTER  V. 

GUADALAJAEA. 

r  ITHE  strange,  ancient,  aristocratic,  and  haughty  City 
of  Guadalajara,  held  us  a  full  week  from  the  pros- 
ecution of  our  journey,  and  after  seeing  its  sights  from 
morning  till  night,  during  all  that  time,  we  were  as  loth 
to  leave  it  as  ever.  Every  morning  we  went  out  to  see 
some  one  of  the  dozens  of  beautiful  ancient  churches 
with  which  the  City  is  adorned,  attend  early  mass,  and 
examine  the  quaint  old  pictures  with  which  each 
abounds.  One  of  the  finest  of  these,  perhaps  the  finest 
excepting  the  great  Cathedral,  is  the  Church  of  Our 
Lady  of  Guadaloupe,  which  is  half  convent,  as  well  as 
church.  There  is  attached  to  this  church  a  "  Retreat," 
with  two  hundred  cells.  To  this  place  the  pious  citi- 
zens of  the  City,  repair  to  spend  nine  days  of  Lent,1  in 
monastic  retirement,  for  the  good  of  their  souls.  Each 
cell  has  a  table,  chair,  and  cot-bed,  and  meals  are  served 
to  the  temporary  occupants  by  servants,  thus  enabling 
them  to  pass  their  time  in  absolute  seclusion  from 
the  world.  For  the  nine  days'  board  and  lodging,, 
and  spiritual  comfort,  those  able,  pay  four  or  five  dol- 
lars, the  others  nothing.  More  women  than  men  resort 
here  and  the  cells  are  filled  every  year. 

All  these  churches  have  beautiful  chimes  of  bells,  cast 
in  the  city  centuries  ago,  and  the  air  is  at  times  filled 
with  their  music.'  By  the  municipal  laws,  they  are  now 


118 


THE    GEAND    CATHEDRAL. 


allowed  to  ring  only  two  or  three  minutes  at  any  one 
time,  but  they  contrive  to  make  the  intervals  between 
the  ringing  nearly  as  brief  as  those  between  the  drinks 
in  San  Francisco.  The  services  are  similarly  brief  and 
frequent,  and  the  churches  appear  to  be  nearly  always 
open. 

The  great  Cathedral  of  Guadalajara  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  costly  temples  of  worship  on  the 
Continent ;  ranking  in  Mexico  only  second  to  those  of 
Puebla  and  the  City  in  point  of  wealth,  and  for  beauty 
far  in  advance  of  the  latter.  I  cannot  describe  a  Cath- 


THE  GREAT  CATI1EDRAL,   AT  GUADALAJARA. 

edral,  though  I  try  never  so  hard.  Suffice  it  to  say. 
that  the  roof  is  supported  by  ten  combined  or  quadru- 
ple columns,  of  immense  size,  painted  in  pure  white 


A    MAGNIFICENT    ALTAE.  119 

and  gold.  From  above  the  huge  capital  of  each  rises  a 
beautiful  arch,  which  seems  so  light  and  airy,  as  to 
make  it  impossible  to  believe  that  it  is  built  of  solid 
stone,  and  weighs  hundreds  on  hundreds  of  tons.  The 
grand  dome,  which  without  is  covered  with  beautiful 
glazed  tiles  of  different  colors,  laid  in  mosaic,  is  painted 
within  in  fresco,  in  the  most  florid  but  highly  artistic 
style.  A  narrow  gallery  of  bronze  metal  richly  gilded, 
runs  around  the  entire  building,  on  a  level  with  the 
capitals  of  the  pillars  which  support  the  roof.  Under 
the  great  dome  is  the  grand  organ,  and  arranged  in  a 
semi-circle  behind  the  choir,  the  twenty-four  seats  for 
the  Bishop  and  Canons.  The  choir  is  as  superb  as 
gilding  and  carving  can  make  it. 

A  few  years  since,  this  Cathedral  was  struck  by 
lightning,  and  two  of  the  organists  were  killed.  In  a 
vault  below  the  pavement  of  the  Cathedral,  the  dead 
Bishops  and  Priests  have  been  accumulating  for  centu- 
ries. Under  the  great  dome,  in  front  of  the  choir,  they 
are  now  erecting  a  magnificent  altar,  some  thirty  feet  in 
height,  of  white  marble  and  metal,  gilded  and  burnished, 
which  was  imported  from  Rome  at  a  cost  of  fifty-thou- 
sand dollars,  and  hauled — Heaven  knoi^s  how — over 
the  terrible,  and,  as  we  found  them,  almost  impassable 
roads,  all  the  way  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Guadalajara. 
Several  of  the  blocks  are  immensely  heavy,  one  I 
should  judge,  weighing  from  ten  to  twenty  tons,  and 
the  task  of  transporting  them  must  have  been,  indeed, 
herculean. 

Around  the  walls  hang  pictures  of  great  age;  and 
in  one  of  the  rooms  back  of  the  altar  we  saw  a  collec- 
tion of  life-sized  statues  of  saints,  apostles,  and  mar- 
tyrs, done  in  wood,  and  covered  with  some  kind  of  flesh 


120  STRANGE    SUPERSTITIONS. 

colored  lacquer  work,  by  native  artists.  Physical  tor- 
ture, mental  suffering,  unmurmuring  and  glad  obedi- 
ence to  the  behests  of  an  all-powerful  faith,  or  the 
beatific  delight  of  the  dying  martyr,  beamed  on  the 
face  of  each.  A  more  distorted,  frightful  and  painful 
collection  to  look  at  was  never  seen  together.  The 
skill  of  the  artists  in  depicting  physical  and  mental 
suffering,  with  such  materials,  is  beyond  praise  for  its 
perfection. 

On  either  side  of  the  altar,  next  to  the  wall,  are  old, 
plain,  square,  wooden  boxes,  each  about  six  feet  in 
length,  covered  with  red  cloth.  In  these  two  boxes,  are 
enclosed  the  mummified  remains  of  the  first  two  bishops 
of  Guadalajara.  One  of  them  has  been  lying  there  for 
three  hundred  years,  and  the  other  some  forty  years 
less.  Both  are  said  to  be  in  a  good  state  of  preserva- 
tion. Above  the  coffins,  on  the  wall,  hang  the  broad 
brimmed  hats  worn  by  these  worthy  men  in  their  lives, 
and  we  were  gravely  informed  by  our  guide,  that  when 
the  coffins  are  opened  for  any  reason,  the  hats  will 
immediately  swing  from  side  to  side  of  their  own  voli- 
tion, as  if  doing  reverence  to  the  holy  dust  below.  We 
did  not  see  the  coffins  opened. 

But  the  charitable  institutions  and  schools  of  Gua- 
dalajara claimed  more  of  our  time  and  attention,  and 
are  worthy  of  mention,  even  before  the  grand  cathedral, 
which  is  one  of  its  especial  wonders. 

The  great  hospital  of  San  Miguel  de  Belan,  generally 
known  as  "  the  Belan,"  is  near  the  center  of  the  city, 
and  encloses  within  its  walls  about  eight  acres  of  land. 
It  was  founded,  as  the  inscription  over  the  inner  gate- 
way shows,  in  1787,  by  Bishop  Alcalde,  whose  first 
name  I  do  not  remember,  and  with  whom,  I  presume, 


GEEAT   HOSPITAL    OF    SAN  MIGUEL  DE  BELAN.        121" 

the  people  of  the  United  States  of  the  .present  day 
had  no  personal  acquaintance.  Its  revenues  were  once 
immense,  they  say  one  million  dollars  per  annum  ;  but 
each  succeeding  revolution  has  impoverished  it,  and  six 
or  seven  years  ago,  the  late  Bishop  Portugal  found  it 
almost  wholly  in  ruins  and  without  funds  to  support 
patients.  His  office  was  worth  a  large  sum  per  annum, 
and  he  had  a  large  private  property.  He  set  himself 
earnestly  to  work  to  rebuild  and  endow  this  great  hos- 
pital, and  lived  to  see  it  once  more  in  the  full  tide  of 
prosperity,  after  having  devoted  his  entire  fortune  and 
all  the  voluntary  contributions  he  could  secure  to  the 
institution. 

The  amount  expended  in  building  and  repairing,  and 
the  property  bestowed  upon  the  institution,  from  the 
rents  of  which  it  is  now  sustained,  was  estimated,  all 
told,  at  six  million  dollars.  The  first  thing  a  revolu- 
tionist did  in  past  times,  was  to  enlist  all  the  prisoners 
in  the  Jails  and  State-Prisons,  then  seize  the  moneys 
in  the  custom-houses,  mints,  and  charitable  institutions, 
then  force  into  his  ranks  all  the  able-bodied  men  in  the 
community,  and  levy  prestimos  on  the  merchants  and 
wealthy  men  In  this  manner,  society  has  regained 
from  time  to  time  all  the  thieves,  robbers,  and  vaga- 
bonds which  had  been  lost  to  it  through  the  criminal 
laws,  and  the  public  funds  and  charitable  institutions 
have  suffered  in  proportion.  The  Liberal  Government, 
during  the  late  war,  was  compelled  much  against  its 
will,  but  from  sheer  necessity,  to  use  a  million  dollars 
of  the  property  of  the  Belan  Hospital ;  what  amount 
the  French  and  Austrians  got  I  am  not  informed.  The 
hospital  now  has  about  five  hundred  thousand  dollars 
worth  of  property,  from  which  it  receives  twenty  thou; 


122  SISTERS    OF   CHARITY BISHOP   PORTUGAL. 

sand  dollars  in  rents,  all  of  which  it  expends  upon  its 
patients,  and  through  a  commission  of  citizens  it  is 
most  admirably  administered. 

The  Sisters  of  charity  attend  upon  the  patients,  but 
do  not  control  the  management  of  the  institution.  The 
number  of  patients  now  in  the  hospital  is  three  hun- 
dred, and  this  is  about  the  average  in  seasons  of  peace, 
but  at  times  during  the  last  war,  it  was  nearly  trebled. 
Bishop  Portugal  died  poor,  but  left  behind  him  in  the 
hospital,  a  monument  which  will  cause  his  name  to  be 
honored  and  revered  for  centuries. 

The  building  is  admirably  constructed  for  the  pur- 
pose. It  is  but  one  story  in  height,  and  there  are, 
of  course,  no  stairs  to  climb  up  and  down.  Then  the 
rooms  are  twenty-five  feet  from  floor  to  ceiling,  insuring 
perfect  ventilation,  and  all  of  immense  size.  The  walls, 
of  brick  or  adobe,  are  very  thick,  and  the  thick  roof, 
with  red  tiles  above,  keeps  out  effectually  the  heat  of 
the  sun,  so  that  there  is  no  very  perceptible  change  in 
the  temperature  in  summer  or  winter,  and  no  artificial 
heating  is  necessary.  No  dirt,  no  noise,  no  blinding 
light,  no  musquitoes,  flies,  or  vermin,  are  there. 

Entering  the  portal,  near  the  center  of  the  building, 
the  visitor  finds  himself  in  a  gallery,  from  which  radi- 
ate, in  fan  form,  six  wards  of  immense  length,  three  on 
either  side.  These  wards  are  designated  by  the  inscrip- 
tions over  the  doors,  "  God  the  Father,"  "  God  the  Son," 
and  "  God  the  Holy  Ghost,"  on  one  side,  and  on  tin- 
other,  "  St.  Vincent  de  Paul,"  "  The  Sacred  Heart  of  Je- 
sus," and  "  St.  John  of  God."  The  patients  are  allowed 
to  see  their  friends  as  often  as  they  desire,  and  appear 
to  be  well  waited  upon  and  cared  for.  The  kitchen, 
dispensary,  bath-house,  <fcc.,  all  appear  to  be  remark- 
ably well-arranged  and  supplied. 


THE    HOSPICIO    DE    GUADALAJARA.  123 

Passing  one  of  the  large  rooms  I  noticed  the  sign 
"  Operating  Room "  over  the  door,  and  looking  in 
through  the  open  grating,  saw  a  party  of  surgeons  and 
students  busily  engaged  in  dissecting  a  corpse,  so  thor- 
oughly occupied  in  fact  that  they  paid  no  attention  to 
our  presence.  This  part  of  the  worl:  was  carried  on 
much  more  openly  than  with  us,  and  seemed  to  be  re- 
garded quite  as  a  matter  of  course  by  all  present. 

Grander  in  proportions  and  conception  than  even  the 
Belan  Hospital,  is  the  great  Hospicio  de  Guadalajara, 
the  equal  of  which  cannot  be  found  on  the  American 
Continent.  This  was  founded  a  century  ago  by  Bishop 
Juan  Cruz  Riiis  Cabanais,  a  man  of  great  wealth  and 
piety,  who  endowed  it  magnificently.  His  full  length 
portrait,  in  which  he  is  represented  standing,  in  full 
Canonicals,  before  a  table,  on  which  rests  a  diagram  of 
the  complete  structure,  just  as  we  see  it  to-day,  and  hold- 
ing in  his  hands  the  purse  containing  the  endowment  of 
the  institution,  hangs  in  the  chapel  of  the  establish, 
ment  now.  What  it  cost  to  erect  a  structure  covering 
six  or  eight  acres  of  ground,  with  walls  from  three  to 
eight  feet  in  thickness,  inclosing  no  less  than  twenty- 
two  court-yards,  each  surrounded  by  magnificent  corri- 
dors or  portals,  and  furnish  it  throughout,  I  cannot  tell, 
but  it  must  have  been  millions  of  dollars,  even  in  a 
country  where  labor  costs  next  to  nothing. 

This  establishment  was  greatly  run  down  a  few  years 
ago,  but  through  the  efforts  of  the  late  Sen  or  Matute, 
and  other  patriotic  and  public-spirited  citizens,  it  has 
been  regenerated,  and  now  holds  within  its  walls  six- 
teen-hundred  human  beings,  from  the  foundling  just 
brought  in  from  the  street,  to  the  young  woman  or  man 
ready  to  go  forth  into  the  world  as  a  teacher,  artizan, 


12-4  THE   INMATES    OF   THE   HOSPICIO. 

Louse-servant,  husband  or  wife.  It  is  superintended  by 
the  Sisters  of  Charity,  of  whom  there  are  some  twenty 
in  the  establishment,  and  managed  with  an  amount  of 
economy  and  skill  wonderful  to  witness.  In  its  six- 
teen different  departments  it  is  at  once,  a  foundling 
hospital,  reform  school,  juvenile  school,  orphan  asylum, 
asylum  for  the  aged  and  indigent,  boy's  and  girl's  high 
school,  school  of  arts,  workshop^  college  and  hospital. 

In  one  department  we  saw  thirty  foundlings,  two 
of  which  had  just  been  brought  in,  all  white,  and  most 
of  them  presenting  an  effeminate  delicacy  of  feature, 
indicating  "blue  blood."  The  Indians,  and  people  of 
part  Indian  blood,  do  not  throw  their  children  into  the 
streets,  to  be  eaten  by  dogs  and  hogs,  whether  born  in 
or  out  of  lawful  wedlock.  They  are  neatly  dressed, 
nursed  by  Indian  women,  and  well  cared  for.  In  another 
ward  were  one  hundred  and  five  boys,  arrested  by  the 
police,  as  vagabonds  on  the  streets,  and  sent  here  to  be 
reformed.  They  were  drilling  as  soldiers  when  we 
came  in.  The  City  pays  six  and  one  quarter  cents  each, 
per  day,  for  the  support  of  these  boys,  and  they  all 
have  to  learn  useful  trades  before  leaving  the  institu- 
tion. I  noticed  among  the  children  many  who  had  lost 
one  or  both  eyes,  and  was  told  that  in  the  Indian  vil- 
lages it  is  not  uncommon  for  the  parents  to  thus  muti- 
late their  children  in  infancy,  to  fit  them  for  begging,  or 
to  enable  them  to  avoid  military  duty. 

In  another  ward  we  saw  the  old  women,  some  of 
them  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  years  of  age,  and 
girls  of  weak  intellect,  sitting  in  the  sun  and  doing  some 
little  plain  sewing  or  knitting,  and  in  an  adjoining  room 
a  number  of  blind  girls  busily  engaged  in  grinding 
half-hulled  corn,  with  the  metate  into  tortillas,  a  sweet 


THE    INMATES    OF   THE   HOSPICIO. 


125 


smile  on  their  faces  indicating  their  knowledge  of  our 
presence.  In  another,  boys  were  at  work  making  shoes, 
tailoring,  car  pentering, 
and  setting  type  in  a  reg- 
ular printing  office,  and 
printing  with  one  of 
Hoe's  Washington  press- 
es, just  such  as  I  "  roll- 
ed "  upon  twenty-four 
years  ago,  in  a  country 
printing  office  in  the  then 
"  Far  West. "  In  another, 
girls  were  sewing,  em- 
broidering in  silk  and 
bullion,  making  lace,  knit- 
ting, etc.  In  another, 
young  ladies  of  the  first 
families,  who  reside  with 
their  parents,  were  learn- 
ing painting  and  the  high- 
est styles  of  embroidery. 

In  another  ward,  two  hundred  children,  between  two 
and  five  years  of  age,  one  hundred  boys  and  one  hun- 
dred girls,  belonging  to  parents  too  poor  even  to  dress 
them,  were  being  taught  orally,  as  at  the  school  of  San 
Felipe.  All  the  cloth  for  the  clothing  of  the  pupils,  is 
made  within  its  walls,  and  all  the  clothing,  and  boots 
and  shoes  required,  are  made  up  by  the  boys  and 
girls. 

The  kitchen,  as  large  as  an  ordinary  school-house  with 
us,  is  floored  with  glazed  tiles  of  beautiful  pattern,  and 
the  old  Spanish  ranges  have  recently  been  replaced  by 
English  iron  ranges,  which  cost  twenty-four  hundred 


BLIND  GIKL  IN  THE  HOSPICIO. 


120  THE    CHAPEL    OF   TILE   IIOSPICIO. 

dollars,  but  save  fifty  dollars  per  month  on  the  charcoal 
bill,  and  are  considered  a  good  investment.  Soup,  meat, 
and  beans  are  cooked  here  for  sixteen  hundred  persons 
at  once,  and  they  are  now  erecting  an  enormous  kitchen 
in  which  the  entire  cooking  for  the  State-Prison,  con- 
taining from  seven  hundred  to  one  thousand  prisoners, 
is  to  be  done.  It  now  costs  the  State  five  cents  per 
day,  to  board  the  State  prisoners,  and  the  Sisters  expect 
to  do  it  better,  and  make  a  profit  on  that  figure,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Hospicio. 

The  Chapel  is  really  a  grand  Church,  magnificently 
decorated  with  paintings,  with  a  great  dome,  beautifully 
frescoed.  The  founder  gave  forty  blocks  of  buildings 
in  Guadalajara,  all  under  rent,  as  an  endowment  for 
this  establishment;  but  most  of  the  property  is  now 
gone.  It  costs  only  sixty  thousand  dollars  per  annum 
to  support  the  Hospicio  and  Belan  Hospital  together 
and  their  resources  being  but  forty-four  thousand  dol- 
lars, the  State  and  City  pay  the  rest.  We  spent  four 
hours  wandering  through  this  great  establishment, 
and,  after  partaking  of  a  collation,  listened  to  a  brass 
band  of  thirty  pieces,  played  by  boys  instructed  in  the 
place,  and  operatic  music  by  the  young  ladies,  and  then 
left  because  night  had  come  and  we  could  wait  no 
longer. 

The  schools  of  Guadalajara,  new  as  they  are — some 
of  them  but  a  year  or  two  established — astonished  us 
more  than  anything  else  we  saw  in  this  ancient  City. 
The  municipality  of  Guadalajara  now  supports  eighteen 
primary  day  schools,  nine  for  girls,  and  nine  for  boys,, 
free  to  all,  and  five  evening  schools,  beside  contributing 
to  the  support  of  several  more  advanced  schools,  accom- 
modating in  all  seven  thousand  pupils,  and  all  at  an 


THE    PUBLIC    SCHOOLS    OF   JALISCO.  127 

expense,  as  I  was  informed  by  Senor  Juan  Ignacio  Ma- 
tute,  a  member  of  the  Municipal  Council,  whose  father 
may  be  called  the  father  of  the  Common  School  sys- 
tem of  Jalisco,  of  only  twenty-five  thousand  dollars 
per  annum. 

Then,  the  State  provides  two  High  Schools,  or  "  lycees" 
one  for  boys  and  one  for  girls,  which  are  free  to  all 
who  are  unable  to  pay  ten  dollars  per  month  for  board 
and  tuition — no  scholar  who  can  pass  the  examination 
can  be  refused,  however  humble  or  poor — where  the 
youth  are  taught  all  the  higher  branches  of  mathemat. 
ics,  the  languages,  vocal  and  instrumental  music,  and 
many  arts  by  which  they  can  gain  an  honest  livelihood ; 
a  school  of  Arts,  in  which  four  hundred  boys  are  taught 
all  the  useful  arts  and  trades,  such  as  tailoring,  saddlery, 
blacksmithing,  boot-making,  carpentering,  etc.,  etc.,  and 
an  Institute  or  college  of  higher  grade,  for  the  instruc- 
tion of  boys  intended  for  the  learned  professions.  In 
addition  to  this,  the  State  contributes  a  comparatively 
liberal  sum  towards  the  support  of  the  Hospicio  and 
other  institutions  of  learning. 

We  first  visited  the  Girl's  High  School.  This  is  the 
school  provided  by  the  State  of  Jalisco  for  graduates 
of  her  Grammar  schools.  It  is  situated  in  the  old  Con- 
vent of  San  Diego,  which  was  closed  and  confiscated  to 
the  Nation  by  order  of  President  Juarez,  and  is  now 
wholly  devoted  to  the  purposes  of  free  education.  The 
building,  like  nearly  all  similar  structures  here,  sur- 
rounds an  entire  square,  and  incloses  a  large  court-yard 
filled  with  orange-trees  and  tropical  flowers.  It  is  two 
stories  in  height,  and  the  rooms  are  all  of  great  size, 
light,  clean,  and  well  ventilated.  When  the  nuns  were 
turned  forth,  the  Government  gave  the  use  of  the  prop- 


128  THE  GIRL'S  HIGH  SCHOOL. 

erty  to  the  State  of  Jalisco,  for  educational  purposes. 
We  found  here  two  hundred  and  thirty  girls  from  the 
age  of  twelve  to  twenty  years,  all  bright,  intelligent 
and  happy  looking.  Those  able  to  do  so  pay  ten  dol- 
lars per  month,  or  one  hundred  and  twenty  dollars  per 
year,  and  those  who  are  not,  (they  comprise  a  majority 
of  the  pupils)  pay  nothing.  For  this  they  receive  in- 
struction in  all  the  studies  usually  pursued  in  the  higher 
schools  in  the  United  States,  vocal  and  instrumental 
music,  object  drawing,  all  the  fine  arts,  embroidery,  lace- 
making,  and,  better  still,  cooking,  washing,  ironing,  and 
other  household  duties.  They  all  board  in  the  build- 
ing— board  being  included  in  the  ten  dollars  per 
month — and  take  turns  in  doing  the  work  in  each  de- 
partment, that  all  may  know  how  to  do  such  work  well. 
Brighter  and  happier  faces  I  never  saw  around  me. 

We  visited  all  the  departments,  from  kitchen  to  fine 
art  gallery,  and  found  that  all  of  the  teachers  were 
native  Mexicans,  male  and  female,  mostly  young, 
and  educated  in  the  country.  The  pupils  usually  be- 
long to  the  best  Republican  families  of  the  State ;  but 
the  highest  and  lowest,  richest  and  poorest,  fairest  and 
darkest,  are  all  admitted  on  the  same  terms  of  equality. 
When  they  graduate  they  are  fitted  for  teachers  in  the 
public  schools,  or  for  housekeeping,  or  the  various 
trades. 

We  saw  in  the  embroidery  room,  lace- work  and  em- 
broidery in  silk,  cotton  and  bullion  of  the  most  exqui- 
site fineness  and  delicacy.  Some  of  the  linen  handker- 
chiefs, worked  with  portraits  of  Lincoln,  Juarez  and 
Zarragosa,  in  black  silk  floss,  were  equal  in  delicacy  and 
accuracy  to  the  best  steel  engravings,  and  the  copies  of 
oil  paintings  in  silk  embroidery,  were  perfect  fac-simi- 


THE    BOY'S    HIGH    SCHOOL.  129 

les  of  the  originals.  In  the  Music  Hall,  the  pupils  gave 
us  the  opera  of  Ernani  in  as  grand  style  as  it  is  usually 
given  by  the  regular  opera  companies  of  the  United 
States,  the  part  of  Ernani  being  sung  by  a  little  Miss 
fourteen  years  of  age,  with  a  wonderfully  powerful  and 
highly  cultivated  voice. 

On  leaving  this  beautiful  retreat,  once  the  shade  of 
darkness  and  superstition  and  bigotry,  now  so  justly 
the  pride  and  the  hope  of  the  State,  Mr.  Seward  re- 
marked, "Why,  in  Heaven's  name,  do  people  talk  of 
'  Protectorate '  for  a  country  capable  of  such  things  as 
these." 

Next,  we  visited  the  Boy's  High  School.  This  estab- 
lishment, originally  built  by  Bishop  Parades,  but  now 
under  civil  control,  contains  nearly  four  hundred  stu- 
dents, and  will  soon  have  five  hundred.  It  is  almost  a 
counterpart  of  the  girl's  High  School,  the  system  of  tui- 
tion, cost  to  those  able  to  pay — board,  &c.,  &c. — being 
the  same.  It  is  admirably  conducted,  and  is  as  credit- 
able to  the  town  as  the  other.  The  professors  teach 
gratuitously,  or  for  very  small  salaries.  One  teacher  of 
four  classes  gets  but  eighty  dollars  per  month,  and 
Senor  Matute  and  oth'ers  teach  classes  gratuitously. 
We  saw  a  gymnasium,  art  gallery,  considerable  scien- 
tific apparatus,  and  other  adjuncts  of  a  first-class  school 
of  this  grade,  in  the  building.  One  great  feature  of 
this  school  is  its  library  of  thirty  thousand  volumes, 
mainly  the  spoils  of  the  confiscated  monasteries.  This, 
in  New  York,  Boston,  or  England  would  be  an  immense 
feature.  There  are  thousands  on  thousands  of  volumes 
three  centuries  old  and  more,  printed  or  illuminated 
by  hand,  and  as  perfect  in  their  parchment  coverings  as 
on  the  day  they  issued  from  the  press.  Most  of  them 


130  THE  SCHOOL  OF  USEFUL  ARTS. 

are  in  Spanish,  but  there  are  many  in  French  and  some 
in  English. 

I  saw  a  dictionary  in  Spanish  and  Aztec,  printed  in 
Mexico  in  1571,  and  another,  equally  perfect,  printed  in 
Michoacan  in  1559,  long  enough  before  we  had  printing 
offices  in  English  America.  There  are  many  works 
printed  years  earlier  in  Spain  and  France.  A  large 
number  of  these  books  are  in  duplicate,  and  five  thousand 
volumes  of  the  most  rare,  carefully  selected  and  exposed 
for  sale  in  New  York  or  Boston,  would  attract  all  the 
old  book-fanciers  on  the  Continent,  and  bring  money 
enough  to  provide  this  school  with  what  it  most  needs ; 
viz :  a  large  and  complete  modern  library  in  Spanish, 
English  and  French.  An  antiquarian  book-dealer  might 
make  a  fortune,  and  benefit  mankind,  by  coming  to 
Guadalajara  and  purchasing  such  of  these  works  as  the 
authorities  would  be  willing  to  sell. 

The  last  institution  of  learning  which  we  visited  was 
the  School  of  Useful  Arts.  This  School  is  unique,  and 
deserves  more  extended  notice  than  I  can  give  it.  It  is 
located  in  the  old  monastery  of  San  Augustine,  which, 
like  the  other  establishments  of  the  kind,  now  belongs 
to  the  Federal  Government.  We  found  four  hundred 
boys,  from  eight  to  eighteen  years  of  age,  learning  every 
trade  from  shoemaking  to  blacksmithing,  carpentering, 
weaving,  tailoring,  etc.,  etc.  There  is  a  great  desire  to 
enter  this  school  among  the  youth  of  Jalisco,  and  if 
there  were  accommodations  and  funds  provided  for 
them,  there  would  be  one  thousand  students  instead  of 
four  hundred.  The  boys  are  first  taught  to  read,  write 
and  keep  accounts,  and  then  go  into  the  workshops. 

All  the  clothing  and  boots  and  shoes  worn  in  the 
establishment  are  made  by  the  boys,  the  cloth  being 


THE    SCHOOL    BAND    OF    MUSICIANS.  131 

made  up  from  the  raw  cotton,  spun,  woven  and  colored. 
The  boys  do  the  cooking  and  other  menial  duties  in 
turn.  No  work  is  paid  for  out  of  the  place.  It  costs 
nine  cents  per  day  to  board,  dress,  and  educate  each  boy, 
or  a  total  of  thirty-six  dollars  per  day  for  four  hun- 
dred boys.  The  Municipality  pays  six  and  one  quarter 
cents  per  day — when  it  has  the  funds — for  the  support 
of  each,  or  twenty -five  dollars  per  day,  and  the  remain- 
der is  made  up  from  rents  of  the  property  belonging  'to 
the  School,  which  bring  in  two  hundred  dollars  per 
month,  and  from  voluntary  contributions.  All  the  earn- 
ings of  each  boy  at  any  kind  of  work  are  paid  over  to 
him,  and  he  deposits  what  he  can,  if  his  family  do  not 
need  it  for  their  support,  in  a  savings  box  belonging  to 
himself,  kept  in  a  common  depository.  When  he  has 
grown  to  manhood  and  has  his  trade  well  learned,  he 
goes  out  with  the  little  capital  he  has  laid  by,  and  en- 
ters business  for  himself.  Sometimes  he  has  twenty 
dollars  only,  and  sometimes  two  hundred  or  three  hun- 
dred dollars. 

The  wonderful  musical  talent  of  this  people  is  shown 
in  the  band  of  one  hundred  musicians,  all  boys  in  the 
school,  who  have  earned  their  own  instruments  and 
have  a  fund  in  advance.  A  band  of  fifty  played  before 
us.  One  bright  little  fellow,  Pedro  Gallardo,  twelve 
years  of  age,  played  the  key-bugle  in  a  style  which 
would  render  him  an  acquisition  to  any  military  band 
in  the  United  States.  This  band,  by  ^t^ying  at  public 
meetings,  balls,  <fec.,  had  earned  six  hundred  dollars 
clear  that  year  already.  At  the  end  of  the  year  this 
fund  is  fairly  divided. 

A  fine  old  gentleman,  Seuor  Dionisio  Rodriguez,  has 
managed  this  school  for  twenty  years,  giving  all  his  time 


132  PRIMARY    SCHOOLS PROGRESS. 

to  it,  the  year  round,  free  of  charge,  and  when  revolu- 
tion or  other  causes  cut  off  the  sources  of  supply,  has 
from  his  own  pocket  made  good  the  deficiency,  his  to- 
tal gifts  amounting  to  many  thousands  of  dollars.  God 
bless  and  prosper  him  ;  he  is  a  true  benefactor  of  man- 
kind. 

Some  of  the  work  done  by  these  boys  is  very  beau- 
tiful. We  were  shown  a  rebo&a  or  lady's  scarf-shawl, 
eight  feet  in  length,  and  twenty-eight  inches  in  breadth, 
made  from  the  silk  and  cotton  spun  in  the  establish- 
ment, and  woven  in  a  common  hand-loom  of  the  oldest 
and  rudest  pattern,  which  was  as  beautiful  in  its  change- 
able colors  as  the  finest  product  of  the  looms  of  Lyons. 
It  could  be  drawn  through  a  small  sized  finger-ring,  and 
was  offered  for  eight  dollars. 

The  primary  schools  of  the  city  contain  five  thousand 
pupils,  and  the  schools  for  the  two  sexes  are  separate. 
The  children  are  bright,  intelligent,  and  ready  to  learn, 
and  the  schools  absolutely  free  to  all.  There  are  one 
hundred  and  four  Municipalities  in  the  State  of  Jalisco, 
outside  of  the  City  of  Guadalajara,  and  each  of  them 
supports  one  or  more  of  these  schools.  The  girls  in 
addition  to  the  usual  lessons  with  us,  are  taught  sewing, 
knitting,  and  other  useful  and  necessary  accomplishments. 

Say  what  you  may,  this  is  progress  !  Give  Mexico 
fifteen  years  of  uninterrupted  peace,  in  which  to  spread 
these  schools  throughout  all  the  States,  and  she  will 
astonish  the  world  with  her  material  advance,  and  make 
the  dream  of  establishing  a  monarchy  on  the  ruins  of 
Republicanism  in  the  New  World,  idleness  and  vanity. 
God  grant  that  she  may  have  the  opportunity  to  make 
good  my  prediction. 

After  visiting   the  schools  we  went  into   the  great 


THE  GREAT  CEMETERY  OF  BETHLEM. 


133 


cemetery  of  Betlilem.  It  is  curious  that  the  dead  of 
the  different  families,  Kepublican  and  plebeian,  or  Im- 
perialist and  aristocratic,  cannot  forget  their  differences 
and  rest  quietly  side  by  side,  even  in  death ;  but  such 
is  the  case  in  Guadalajara.  Here,  in  the  cemetery  of 
Bethlem,  the  Republicans  are  buried,  and  in  another 
sleep  the  Imperialists.  There  are  but  few  graves  in 
the  open  ground,  as  we  see  them  in  our  American  and 
European  cemeteries,  and  none  of  them  are  decorated 
with  shade  trees  and  flowers,  or  even  marked  with  tall 
monuments  and  tomb-stones. 

The  greater  number  of  interments  are  in  niches  or 
alcoves   in    the   walls,  which    run  in   three  tiers,   one 
"above   another, 
all    around    the 
cemetery,    which 
must  cover  from 
four   to  six  acres. 
These  alcoves  are 
each   about    three 
feet  square  by  six 
and   one-half    feet 
deep,  and  when 
a  coffin  is   placed 
in  one,  the  e  n  - 
trance  is  closed 
with    cement,  and 
the  name,  date  of 
birth,    death,  etc., 
etc.,  of  the  deceased,  placed  over  the  stone  fitted  into, 
the  opening.     It  costs  twenty-five  dollars  for  the  use 
of  one  of  these  alcoves  five  years,  paid  in  advance.     If 
at*the  end  of  that  time  another  twenty-five  dollars  is; 


THE  CEMETERY  OF  BETHLEM. 


THE  PASEO    DE    SAN    PEDRO. 

not  forthcoming,  the  place  is  again  for  rent.  In  the 
open  ground  you  can  buy  a  lot^  six  feet  by  eight,  but 
the  alcoves  are  only  rented  for  five  years  at  a  time. 

In  the  center  of  the  grounds  there  is  a  large  chapel 
with  vault  beneath,  in  which  rest  many  of  the  early 
church  dignitaries  of  the  diocese  of  Guadalajara. 

The  roads  are  so  unsafe  all  around  Guadalajara,  that 
the  inhabitants  never  ride  many  miles  beyond  its  walls 
without  a  strong,  armed  escort.  The  great,  and  almost 
only,  place  of  public  resort  beyond  the  Plaza,  is  the 
Paseo  de  San  Pedro,  a  broad,  double,  tree-lined  avenue 
or  alameda,  with  carriage-drives  on  either  side,  and 


A   MEXICAN   CAKT. 


banks  of  green  turf-covered  earth,  or  plain  stone  be- 
tween, for  seats.  This  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and 
just  outside  the  gates  on  the  road  to  Mexico.  Thithrr, 
all  the  carriages  in  the  city  repair  every  pleasant  eVe- 


"A  PLEASANT  PLACE  TO  VISIT."          135 

ning,  just  before  night-fall.  Some  of  the  fair  occupants 
drive  up  and  down  in  carriages,  while  others  dismount, 
and,  seated  on  the  banquettes,  pass  their  time  in  chatting 
with  their  friends,  male  and  female,  saluting  each  ac- 
quaintance who  passes. 

The  young  men  ride  around  upon  gaily  caparisoned 
horses,  and  the  young  ladies  frequently  exhibit  their  love 
of  odd  adventure,  by  hiring  one  of  the  clumsy  ox-carts 
of  the  country,  and,  a  dozen  of  them  together,  riding  up 
and  down  the  paseo,  singing  light  songs  and  playing  on 
the  guitar,  their  gallants  riding  near  them  on  horse- 
back and  keeping  up  a  running  fire  of  chaffing  and 
pleasant  conversation,  or  bending  from  their  saddles  to 
whisper  the  story  we  have  all  heard  and  told,  into  will- 
ing ears  as  occasion  offers.  This  is  one  of  the  oddest 
customs  of  the  country. 

Leaving  my  seat  in  the  carriage  in  which  we  visited 
the  pasfo,  to  take  one  beside  a  fair  young  country-wo- 
man of  mine,  to  ride  back  to  the  city,  I  noticed  a  full- 
loaded  Colt's  revolver  lying  on  the  cushion  by  her  side. 
"  Oh !  that  is  nothing ;  I  always  bring  one  out  here  when 
I  come,  as  this  is  a  noted  place  for  robbers,  who  some- 
times jump  out  of  the  cane-brake,  and  rob  a  car- 
riage before  assistance  can  arrive,"  she  said  noncha- 
lantly in  reply  to  my  look  of  inquiry.  "  Pleasant  place 
to  visit  and  enjoy  one's  self  in !  I  think  I  hear  you  say. 
Well,  all  that  may  be,  but  when  you  have  nowhere  else 
to  go,  what  can  you  do ;  one  must  have  some  recreation 
you  know  !"  I  said  "  Please  pass  me,"  and  we  rode  home. 

Notwithstanding  the  slaughter  of  brigands  by  the 
State  troops  acting  under  the  authority  of  the  civil  tri- 
bunals, the  business  of  kidnapping  citizens  and  car- 
rying them  off  into  the  mountains  to  be  held  for  ran- 


136  INSECURITY    OF    LIFE    AND    PROPERTY. 

som,  is  carried  on  with  astonishing  audacity  in  various 
parts  of  the  country,  and  even  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  city  of  Guadalajara.  Some  pretty  tough  stories 
concerning  the  standing  and  social  position  of  the  par- 
ties engaged  in  the  business,  are  related  by  the  victims. 
These  stories  are,  perhaps,  not  always  reliable,  but  I 
gathered  enough  from  people  who  had  been  plagiared, 
to  satisfy  me  that  an  organization,  as  strict  and  effect- 
ive as  that  of  the  Thugs  of  India,  has  for  some  time 
existed,  and  still  exists,  though  more  limited  in  number 
than  formerly,  in  Guadalajara,  and  numbers  among  its 
members  some  of  the  most  prominent  men  and  women 
of  the  old  Imperial  regime.  Men,  who  have  been  rich, 
but  who  are  now  absolutely  without  legitimate  income 
and  unable  to  earn  an  honest  livelihood,  direct  the 
movements  of  the  bands,  and  map  out  the  work  for  the 
lower  order  of  cut-throats  to  carry  out.  Sometimes 
revelations  made  were  of  a  startling  character.  I 
was  one  day  conversing  with  a  gentleman  of  high 
standing  in  Guadalajara,  who  had  been  carried  off 
from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city,  and  only  re- 
leased upon  the  payment  of  five  thousand  dollars,  in 
coin.  I  asked  him  if  he  could  not  identify  the  men 
who  kidnapped  him,  and  received  a  ransom.  u  I  know 
every  one  of  them  !"  was  the  reply.  Then  why  do  you 
not  prosecute  them  and  have  them  .shot?  I  asked.  "I 
will  tell  you  why:  Every  member  of  the  gang  has 
friends  who  would  be  apprised  at  once  of  the  facts,  and 
instructed  to  avenge  their  deaths  in  case  I  lived  until  the 
trial  was  ended.  Governor  Cuervo  and  his  subordi- 
nates would  do  their  duty  without  fear  or  favor,  and 
the  men  would  be  shot ;  but  I  should  be  assassinated 
within  a  week  thereafter,  or  possibly,  kidnapped  again 


A    STRANGE    STATE    OF    SOCIETY. 


137 


and  carried  off,  to  be  tortured  with  every  atrocity 
which  Apaches  are  capable  of,  and  die  a  lingering 
death ;  even  my  family  ^would  be  persecuted,  and  per- 
haps meet  a  fate  as  terrible  as  my  own." 

"  But  are  the  leaders  of  the  band  so  highly  connected 
as  I  have  been  told  2"  I  asked. 

"You  may  be  your  own  judge  in  that  matter.  1 
saw  you  introduced  to  one  of  them  yesterday,  and  hold, 
ing  a  long  conversation  with  him  /" 

"  But  you  did  not  put  me  on  my  guard,"  I  said. 

"  Not  I ;  I  have  even  visited  at  his  house  and  dined  with 
his  family  since  my  release,  and  his  daughter  is  a  warm 
friend  of  my  own.     That  man  received  the  money  from 
my  brother,    and   Tie 
knows  tJiat  I  know 
him  to  be  the  regular 
financial    agent   and 
broker  for  the  band!" 
It  is  hardly  possible 
for  a  stranger  to  un- 
derstand how  such  a 
state    of    affairs   can 
exist  without  the  di- 
rect  connivance  of 
the  authorities ;  but 
it  does  so  exist,  nev- 
ertheless;  and  the 
rigor    with   which 
Gov.  Cuervo  and  his 
associates  execute  the 
laws,  leaves  no  room 
for   doubting   that  they  are  in  earnest  in  the  work. 

Guadalajara  boasts  of  two  Indian  specialties,  viz :  the 
wonderfully  elaborate  embroidery  in  cotton  and  linen, 


INDIAN    EMBROIDERERS    AND  THEIR  WORK, 


138  INDIAN    EMBROIDERERS. 

on  lace  formed    by  the  drawing  out  of  part   of  the 
threads  in  fine    white  goods,    of  which,  you  can  buy 
enough  for  a  lady's  skirt,  six  inphes  wide,  for  five  to  ten 
dollars ;  worth  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  dollars  in  the 
United  States ;  and  statuettes,  vases,  and  similar  goods 
in  earthenware,  molded  from  common  clay,  with  the 
hands  alone,  by  men  and  women  who  cannot  read  or 
write,  and  have,  in  fact,  no  education  whatever.     This 
work  is  executed  in  a  small  village  called  Tonila,  the 
seat  of  the  Aztec  Kings  of  Jalisco  in  the  days  of  Cor- 
tez,  fifteen  miles  distant,  and  sold  around  the  streets. 
There  is  a  place  on  the  Plaza  de  Toros  where  they  have 
cart-loads  of  every   description   of    this   earthenware, 
from  a  toy-cup  to  a  flower-vase  three  feet  high,  for  sale. 
They  ask     more  for  it  than  they  do   at   the  village 
where  it  is  made,  but  still  sell  it  astonishingly  cheap. 
They  have  statuettes  of  every  noted  man  in  the  country 
and  of  the  world,  ancient  and  modern,  from  an  inch  in 
height  to  two  feet,  all  elaborately  worked  and  colored, 
and   many  of    them   handsomely  gilded.     They    will 
make  you  a  statuette,  a  perfect  fac-simile  of  yourself  in 
miniature,  on  two  day's  notice.     Of  burlesque  statuary 
they  have  hundreds  of  specimens,  and  their  figures  rep- 
resenting local  characters,  once  the  celebrities  of  the 
country,    are   wonderful.     During    our    civil   war,   an 
American  artist  produced  in  clay,  groups  representing 
scenes  in  the  war,  the  dying  sentinel,  wounded  to  the 
death,  the  attack,  etc.,  all  of  which  were  fine ;  and   he 
gained  great  credit  thereby ;  but  these  poor  illiterate 
Indians   can  show  thousands  of    such  statuettes  and 
groups,  all  fully  equal  or   superior  in  execution  and 
vivid  expression.     A  noted  and  infamous  character  is 
generally  represented  as   being  carried  off,  bodily,  by 


INDIAN    STATUARY    MAKERS    OF   TONILA. 


139 


the  devil.  Gren.  Rojas,  the  bandit,  formerly  of  Tepic, 
one  of  the  most  "bloodthirsty  cut-throats  and  murderers 
who  ever  cursed  the  earth  with  his  presence,  and  who 
was  shot  some  years  ago  at  Seyula,  is  a  common  sub- 
ject for  this  style  of  art.  I  purchased  a  group  repre- 
senting him,  in  full  costume,  being  thus  carried  off  on  a 
grotesque  devil's  shoulders,  the  figures  being  each 
twelve  inches  in  height,  for  one  dollar  and  a  quarter, 
and,  I  was  told,  that  I  paid  more  than  double  the  usual 
price.  For  a  pair  of  black  enameled  and  artistically 
gilded  water  jugs  of 
Japanese  pattern, 
holding  two  quarts 
each,  very  handsome, 
seventy-five  cents. 
Statuettes  of  water- ^ 
carriers,  peddlers,  etc., 
one  foot  in  height, 
twenty-  five  cents 
each,  and  smaller  fig- 
ures from  a  half  cent 
to  six  and  one-quarter 
cents  each.  My  pur- 
chases filled  a  box 
containing  about  four 
cubic  feet,  and  the 
whole,  cost  only  three 
dollars  and  a  half. 

There  are  four  cotton-factories  near  the  City  of 
Guadalajara,  viz :  El  Escoba,  thirty-three  hundred  spin- 
dles; Atamepac,  five  thousand;  Salto,  five  hundred, 
and  Experience,  one  thousand.  The  last  belongs  to  the 
five  brothers  Lowery,  who,  though  they  have  resided 


INDIAN   STATUARY   MAKEKS. 


140  COTTON-FACTORIES    AND    PAPER-MILLS. 

there  twenty-five  years,  are  still  Americans.  All  were 
in  operation  on  the  same  plan  as  those  at  Colima,  and 
none  making  much  more  than  expenses,  owing  to  the 
high  price  of  cotton,  and  the  excess  of  manufactured 
goods  in  the  market.  Atamepac,  we  found  to  be,  in 
appearance,  a  great  college  building,  of  cut  stone,  stand- 
ing back  about  thirty  rods  from  the  road,  with  a  double 
row  of  orange-trees,  in  full  bearing,  on  either  side  of 
the  wide,  grassy  lawn  leading  up  to  it.  The  others  are 
on  a  similar  plan,  but  on  a  smaller  scale.  Two  more 
cotton-mills  are  being  erected  in  the  vicinity. 

The  paper  mill,  the  only  one  in  the  State,  belonging 
to  Sen  or  Palama,  is  an  immense  structure  with  fourteen 
grinding  or  pulp-  engines ;  a  Foudrinier  machine,  which 
makes  fair,  white  printing  and  telegraph  paper  six  feet 
in  width,  and  a  smaller  one  which  makes  manilla  pa- 
per. The  process  followed  is  tht  same  as  with  us. 

They  have  an  opera-house  and  theater  in  Guadalajara 
on  the  Plaza  fronting  the  Palace ;  it  was  erected  by  the 
city,  but  is  not  yet  finished.  It  has  already  cost  three 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  in  coin,  and  will 
require  fifty  thousand  dollars  more  to  finish  it.  It  is 
now  occupied,  but  has  very  little  scenery — only  a  white 
cloth  drop-curtain,  and  white-washed  walls.  The  pro- 
portions are  magnificent,  and  when  finished  it  will  seat 
four  thousand  persons,  comfortably,  and  become  one  of 
the  finest  on  the  continent.  It  has  five  tiers  of  boxes, 
each  with  twenty-five  separate  apartments  running 
around  the  entire  wall.  Each  box,  or  apartment,  is 
divided  from  the  next  by  a  low  iron  railing,  and  has 
its  own  distinct  entrance  and  dressing  and  '  re- 
freshment rooms.  There  are  seats  for  eight  persons  in 
each  box.  Below,  the  parquette  covers  the  whole  floor 


THE    OPEKA    HOUSE   AND   THEATER.  141 

of  the  building,  and  is  provided  with  cheap  arm-chairs. 
Admission  to  the  boxes  is  one  dollar,  and  to  the  par- 
quette  seventy-five  cents  each. 

We  attended  one  evening  by  invitation,  and  found  a 
well-dressed  and  elegant,  but  not  large  audience.  A 
company  from  Cuba  gave  the  "  Domino  Azul,"  in  good 
style,  and  as  effectively  as  the  circumstances  would  ad- 
mit. The  singing  and  dialogue  was  in  Spanish,  and  the 
music  of  a  national  character.  The  audience,  men  and 
women,  left  the  boxes  and  lounged  in  the  galleries, 
chatting,  and  smoking  cigarritos  and  sipping  fruit-syrup 
flavored  drinks  between  the  acts.  The  old — always 
treated  with  great  respect  here — and  the  middle  aged 
and  young,  occupied  seats  in  the  same  boxes,  and  there 
seemed  to  be  no  distinction  on  account  of  wealth  and 
dress.  The  opera  house  is  badly  lighted  with  oil 
lamps  suspended  over  each  box,  and  the  general  effect 
is  much  marred  in  consequence.  The  house  yields  but 
six  thousand  dollars  per  annum  to  the  city,  and  of 
course  when  money  is  loaned  at  five  per  cent  per 
month,  does  not  pay  as  a  pecuniary  investment. 

On  another  evening  we  attended  again,  by  special 
invitation,  the  "  Valley  of  Andorra,"  being  given  in 
honor  of  Mr.  Seward.  The  boxes,  which  are  usually 
occupied  by  the  wealthy  classes  who  lean  toward  Im- 
perialism, were  only  partially  filled,  but  there  was  a 
large  array  of  beauty,  and  the  galleries  were  crowded 
with  the  ^Republican  element.  The  "  Mochos,"  evi- 
dently hate  the  men  of  the  North,  while  the  common 
people  welcome  them.  There  are  no  low  melodeons  in 
Guadalajara  as  with  us,  and  with  the  exception  of  the 
bull  arena,  there  are  no  other  places  of  in-door  public 
amusement  in  the  city. 


142  PROGRAMME   FOR   A    SUNDAY   BULL-FIGHT. 

The  cruel  and  thoroughly  demoralizing  amusement 
of  bull-fighting,  once  the  national  sport  of  Mexico,  has 
been  prohibited  in  the  capital  and  various  States,  but 
is  still  maintained  in  Guadalajara.  Determined  to  see 
all  that  was  to  be  seen  of  the  manners  and  customs  of 
the  people  at  this  out-of-the-way  corner  of  the  world, 
we  naturally  inquired  after  the  bull-fight,  and  were  grat- 
ified. (?)  On  Saturday,  a  long  bill,  magnificently  printed 
in  gold,  on  blue  satin  with  a  lace  border,  was  sent  to 
our  house.  As  a  curiosity,  and  a  memento  of  a  custom 
now,  thank  Heaven,  fast  passing  away,  I  translated  the 
bill  as  nearly  literally  as  possible : 

BULLS  (i.  e.,  lull-fight)  IN  THE  PLAZA  OF  PROGRESS. 

GRAND   PERFORMANCE   ON    SUNDAY,    OCTOBER    24,    1869. 

The  company  have  arranged  for  this  afternoon  a  selected  and 
varied  performance,  which  will  proceed  in  the  following  order : 

PROGRAMME. 

1.  The  music  of  the  First  Light  Battalion,  wisely  directed 
by  Prof.  Santos  Hernandez,  will  begin  to  play  from  3  p.  M.,  the 
best  airs  of  his  repertoire. 

2.  Five  valiant  bulls  will  be  fought,  from  the  well-known  ha- 
cienda of  Cuisillos,  four  of  which  will  be  done  to  the  death. 

3.  After  the  death  of  the  fourth  bull,  a  young  bull  will  un- 
dergo the  Novillo  de  Cola,  which  exercise  will  be  performed  by 
the  intelligent  and  agile  coleador,  Francisco  Rodriguez. 

4.  Immediately  thereafter  another  Novillo  de  Cola  will  be 
performed,  and  the  bull  be  ridden  by  the  celebrated  bull-rider, 
Francisco  Moya,  and  both  the  other  coleadors.     These  exercises 
will  be  done  at  the  fullest  speed,  and  the  coleador  will  throw 
down  a  bull  and  mount  him  with  rapidity. 

5.  Other  bulls  will  be  fought  by  the  company  if  the  time 
will  permit. 

PRICES. — A  box  with  six  chairs,  four  dollars ;  seats  in  the 


AN   IMMENSE   AMPHITHEATEE.  143 

shade,  fifty  cents ;  seats  in  the  sun,  twelve  and  a  half  cents  ; 
seats  in  chairs,  twelve  and  a  half  cents  extra. 

Performance  begins  at  4  p.  M.,  precisely. 

RULES. — It  is  not  allowed  to  pay  money  at  the  inner  doors, 
and  patrons  of  the  performance  will  carry  their  own  tickets  to 
avoid  confusion  and  crowding  at  the  entrance,  which  would  cre- 
ate annoyance.  The  soldiers  at  the  garrison  of  Guadalajara 
will  pay  six  and  a  quarter  cents  each,  and  will  occupy  the  roof. 

Whenever  the  judge  shall  graciously  grant  the  bull  to  the 
fighters,  the  company  shall  be  allowed  the  usual  gratuity  in 
place  of  the  animal. 

All  the  morning,  a  party  of  matadores,  picadores,  and 
their  assistants,  on  horseback  and  on  foot,  with  a  band 
of  music  at  their  head,  were  parading  the  streets,  the 
clowns  in  grotesque  costumes  yelling  at  the  top  of  their 
voices,  the  praises  of  the  " gran  funcion"  which  was 
to  come  off  at  the  Plaza  de  Progresso,  in  the  after- 
noon. Two  of  the  mounted  men  carried  a  pole,  on 
which  was  arranged  the  banderittas,  or  light  frame- 
works of  wire,  in  the  form  of  palm-trees,  Chinese  lan- 
terns, lyres,  cornucopias,  and  other  objects,  each  about 
three  feet  in  length,  covered  with  long,  waving  strips 
of  gilt  and  tissue  paper,  which  were  to  be  attached  to 
the  balls  by  sharp  iron  barbs  to  drive  them  to  mad- 
ness. At  the  hour  announced  we  drove  to  the  Plaza 
of  Progress,  and  found  an  immense  amphitheater  of 
stone,  not  less  than  five  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  open 
toward  the  sky,  and  provided  with  seats  arranged  in 
five  tiers,  running  around  the  entire  structure,  reced- 
ing toward  the  top,  until  they  reached  the  corridor 
beneath  which  were  the  boxes  of  the  aristocratic  and 
wealthy  portion  of  the  audience.  Soldiers  guard  every 
public  place  in  Guadalajara,  and  we  saw  their  bayo- 


144         THE  ARENA  AND  THE  AUDIENCE. 

nets  everywhere  among  the  crowd  which  surged  around 
the  entrance  and  within  the  gates. 

The  roof  above  the  grand  corridor  was  covered  with 
the  soldiers  of  the  garrison,  and  the  State  Guards 
in  their  picturesque  uniforms,  and  the  tiers  of  seats  "  in 
the  sun  and  in  the  shade  "  presented  a  sea  of  heads,  the 
conjmon  and  poorer  people  fairly  packing  them.  The 
corridor  was  fairly  filled — many  ladies  being  present- 
but  I  noticed  that  the  more  refined  and  educated  por- 
tion of  the  community  did  not  appear,  generally,  to  be 
there.  There  were,  at  a  rough  estimate,  at  least  three 
thousand  people  in  the  amphitheatre.  The  band,  of 
about  fifty  pieces,  struck  up  a  grand  march,  and  at  the 
sound  of  the  trumpet,  the  company  came  into  the  arena. 
They  were  twelve  or  fourteen  in  number.  The  two 
matadors,  men  of  advanced  age,  stout  and  agile,  were 
in  ordinary  vaqueros  costume,  with  broad  hats,  mount- 
ed on  poor  horses,  and  carried  their  spears,  with  short, 
blunt  ends,  in  their  hands.  The  two  matadores  and 
their  assistants  were  all  dressed  in  the  full,  old  Spanish 
costumes,  brilliant  with  gold  and  scarlet,  knee  breeches 
and  shoes,  short  jackets,  and  black  jaunty  caps. 

Halting  before  the  judges'  box,  the  party  sent  two  of 
their  number  up  over  the  barriers  and  tiers  of  seats— 
as  agile  as  cats  they  seemed — to  exhibit  to  them  the 
banderillas,  and  ask  their  high  permission  for  the  fight- 
ing to  commence,  which  was  of  course  given. 
'  In  rushed  from  a  side  door,  a  tawny  brown  bull,  with 
wide  spreading  horns,  the  points  of  which  had  already 
been  sawed  off  about  four  inches,  and,  throwing  his 
head  high  in  the  air,  he  gave  one  glance  around  the  arena 
within,  like  a  dog  in  play,  and  dashed  at  the  nearest 
man  with  a  red  mantle.  The  mantle  was  whirled  quick- 


A    QUIET    BULL   AND    HIS    FATE. 


145 


ly  over  the  head  of  the  wearer  as  the  bull  just  reached 
him,  and,  with  a  bound  to  one  side,  the  youth  was  out  of 
his  reach. 

This  bull  was  too  young  and  quiet  for  the  sport,  ^?) 
and  the  banderillas  were  fixed  in  either  side  of  his 
neck  by  a  very  clever  and  active  assistant,  who  bound- 
ed  out  of  the  way  as  he  threw  them,  just  in  time  to 


THE   SUNDAY   BULL-FIGUT. 


escape  the  horns  of  the  animal.  Still,  the  bull,  though 
throwing  his  head  from  side  to  side,  whirling  the  lan- 
derillas  around  as  if  in  sport,  did  not  half  nghtr  and 
the  red  mantles  flaunted  in  his  face,  and  thrown  at 
times  over  his  horns,  only  provoked  him  to  momentary 
madness.  So  a  matadore  advanced  with  a  sharp,  straight 

sword,  and  as  the  bull  dashed  at  him,  made  a  thrust 
10 


140  A    COWAKDLY    BULL ENRAGED    AUDIENCE. 

just  forward  of  the  shoulder  to  pierce  his  heart,  the 
crowd  yelling  to  him  to  kill  him  at  the  first  blow. 
The  sword  bent  almost  double  by  striking  a  bone,  and 
went  wide  of  the  mark.  The  matadore  stopped  to  bend 
it  straight  again,  and  meantime  the  now  bleeding  bull 
dashed  at  one  of  the  picadores  on  horseback.  The  pic- 
adore  dropped  his  lance  so  as  to  catch  the  bull  on  the 
shoulder,  and  the  moment  the*  barb  pierced  the  skin 
the  poor  animal,  as  is  his  wont,  wheeled  away.  This 
was  repeated  again  and  again,  and  then  the  matadore 
gave  him  half  a  dozen  thrusts,  finally  reaching  a  vital 
spot,  and  bowed  to  the  judges ;  the  mob  in  the  galleries 
on  the  opposite  side,  rewarding  his  courage  and  skill  (?) 
by  hurling  banana-peel,  oranges,  and  stale  vegetables 
at  his  head  whenever  he  came  within  their  reach.  An 
assistant  now  struck  the  dying  bull  in  the  neck  with  a 
double-edged  knife,  and  the  creature  dropped  dead  as  if 
stricken  by  lightning.  Then,  three  old  horses,  harnessed 
abreast,  were  driven  in  and  hitched  to  the  bleeding  car- 
cass, but  it  required  the  united  strength  of  the  whole 
company  of  "  artists "  to  assist  in  pulling  it  out. 

The  band  played,  and  the  second  bull  came  dashing 
in.  The  fight,  if  such  it  could  be  called,  was  simply  a 
repetition  of  the  first.  The  third  bull  ran  away  from 
the  horses,  and  would  only  fight  in  self-defence,  running 
around  the  arena  with  his  head  raised  as  if  appealing 
for  mercy,  and  the  now  enraged  audience  shouted  loud 
and  long  to  "  Turn  him  out,"  which  was  finally  done  by 
order  of  the  judges, 

The  fourth  bull  was  a  game  fellow,  and  made  things 
lively.  He  dashed  at  everything  within  reach,  and 
drove  the  assistants  again  and  again  behind  the  bar- 
riers. The  populace,  excited  to  the  highest  pitch  of 


A    GAME    FELLOW LIVELY    TIMES.  147 

enthusiasm,  reached  over  the  wall,  and  yelled,  and 
shook  their  great  hats  and  ragged  blankets  in  his  face 
to  madden  him  to  the  utmost.  He  dashed  at  one  of 
the  picadores,  got  the  horse  under  the  belly,  and  shook 
him  on  his  horns  as  he  would  toss  a  blanket.  The 
crowd  were  frantic  with  delight.  Then  he  made  another 
dash  at  the  same  horse,  and  despite  the  vigorous  prod- 
ing  of  ihepicadore,  caught  the  poor,  wretched  animal 
in  the  same  place,  and  held  him  on  his  horns  until  one 
of  them  penetrated  his  abdomen  and  fatally  injured 
him.  Notwithstanding  this,  the  wounded  horse  was 
ridden  until  the  entire  performance  was  ended.  The 
populace  were  happy.  Then  the  bull  "  went  for  "  the 
other  horse,  caught  him,  and  rolled  horse  and  rider  over 
and  over  in  the  dirt — and  the  crowd  roared  with  delight. 
To  tell  the  truth,  I  felt  a  little  satisfaction  myself,  until 
I  saw  the  dismounted  picadore  unroll  himself  and  spring 
to  his  feet  uninjured.  The  horse  was  stricken  to  the 
death  and  taken  away  to  die. 

The  picadores  have  their  right  legs  incased  in  a  shield 
made  of  leather  with  bars  of  steel  inside,  similar  to 
those  worn  on  the  arms  by  the  Chinese  short-swords- 
men. They  invariably  present  that  side  to  the  bull, 
and  so  escape  injury,  except  in  very  rare  cases.  The 
matadore  gave  this  bull  a  thrust  to  the  very  heart  at  the 
first  pass  of  his  sword,  and  the  stricken  animal  stagger- 
ing half  around  the  ring,  fell  to  his  knees,  and  was  dis- 
patched in  an  instant.  This  ended  the  killing,  though 
the  crowd  furiously  demanded  another  bull  in  place  of 
the  third,  who  had  proven  unfit  for  fighting. 

Then  the  coleadores,  mounted  on  fine  spirited  horses, 
dashed  in,  and  a  young  bull  was  let  out  at  them.  They 
rode  at  full  speed  along  side  of  him,  and  endeavored  to 


148  THE    BULL-EIDERS. 

spring  from  their  horses  upon  his  back,  but  failed  on 
every  occasion.  Once,  one  of  the  coleadores  (i.  e.  tail- 
pullers)  went  down  between  horse  and  bull,  and  was 
trampled  upon  by  both,  but  not  killed.  This  bull  was 
turned  out  and  a  second  and  more  lively  one  let  in. 
He  was  run  around  and  around  the  arena,  and  finally 
caught  by  the  tail  and  thrown  to  the  earth  by  one  of 
the  coleadores,  and  tied  by  the  assistants,  who  held  him 
until  a  cord — or,  as  a  Californian  would  say,  "  a  cinch  "- 
was  tied  around  him.  Francisco  Mayo  then  sprang 
upon  his  back,  and  he  was  allowed  to  regain  his  feet. 
The  bull  dashed  around  and  around  the  arena,  bucking 
and  jumping,  to  rid  himself  of  his  rider,  but  in  vain ; 
and  so  the  performance  ended,  just  as  night  set  in. 

And  all  this  time  delicate,  beautiful  women  and  little 
children  had  been  sitting  in  the  corridors,  sipping  cool 
drinks  and  looking  placidly  on,  while  they  chatted  on 
familiar  subjects  with  their  Mends  around  them. 
Worse  than  that,  as  I  looked  up  at  the  walls  of  the 
great  Hospicio,  that  wonder  of  practical  charity  and  be- 
nevolence, I  saw  several  of  the  pious  Sisters  of  Charity, 
whose  holy  work  and  holy  lives  we  had  so  much  admired 
when  we  visited  the  institution,  standing  on  the  battle- 
ments and  looking  down  upon  us.  They  could  not  see 
the  slaughter,  but  could  hear  and  enjoy  the  shouts  of 
the  populace,  the  music,  and  the  moans  of  the  tortured 
animals. 

This  was  the  first  bull-fight  I  had  ever  witnessed ;  it 
will  be  my  last.  I  believe  I  can  say,  that  I  never 
flinched  from  duty,  however  painful,  and  in  the  course 
of  my  journalistic  life,  I  have  been  called  on  to  witness 
many  things  of  a  cruel  and  horrible  character ;  but  I 
have  never  yet  been  guilty  of  wantonly  torturing  any 


THE  BONES  OF  THE  DEAD  PAST.          149 

living  creature,  and  I  should  loathe  and  despise  myself 
beyond  measure  if  I  felt  that  I  could  be  guilty  of  again 
witnessing  such  a  scene.  The  entertainment  was  given 
in  good  faith  as  a  compliment,  and  accepted  as  such ; 
but  such  scenes  can  but  brutalize  and  demoralize  a  com- 
munity which  tolerates  them,  and  I  thank  God  that 
enlightened  public  sentiment  is  now  setting  so  strongly 
against  them,  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  they 
will  be  prohibited  by  law  in  this  State,  as  well  as  in 
all  other  parts  of  Mexico.  I  have  had  just  enough  of 
bull-fights  for  the  measure  of  my  life,  be  it  large  or 
small. 

Every  day  I  staid  in  Guadalajara,  I  saw  something 
more  to  remind  me  of  the  fact  that  I  stood  among  the  dry 
bones  of  the  past — that  the  world  around  me  was  a 
strange  mixture  and  confusion  of  the  fifteenth  and  nine- 
teenth centuries,  the  ideas  of  each  struggling  for  the 
mastery.  Utopian  dreams  of  the  future,  and  the  savage 
faith  and  despotism  of  the  past,  jostle  and  crowd  each 
other,  day  by  day,  and  the  end  of  the  conflict  is  not 
yet.  One  day,  I  went  out  to  see  the  Indian  recruits  for 
the  Army  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  drilling  on  the 
plaza,  and,  returning,  saw  in  the  distance  the  tower  of 
the  ancient  place  of  worship  in  the  Indian  village  of 
Tonila,  in  which  the  curious  earthen  structures  of  which 
I  have  spoken  are  made.  This  Tonila  was  the  capital 
of  the  Kingdom  of  Jalisco,  when  Cortez  landed  in 
Mexico,  and  there,  the  descendants  of  the  fierce  Aztec 
warriors  still  reside— making  clay  images,  while  their 
sons  and  brothers  fight  for  the  maintenance  of  Repub- 
licanism, side  by  side  with  the  descendants  of  the  con- 
quistadors. 

Reaching  our  sumptuous  quarters  I  found   on   the 


150  GRAND  FAREWELL  BALL. 

table,  as  a  present  to  Mr.  Seward,  a  time-yellowed  docu- 
ment, written  in  quaint  old  Spanish,  dated  at  Madrid  in 
1676,  and  signed  in  a  bold,  round  hand,  with  ink  which 
might  have  been  made  but  a  week  ago,  "  Yoe  el  Hey  " 
("  I,  the  king. ")  This  is  a  royal  proclamation  of 
Charles,  King  of  Spain,  commanding  that,  thereafter,  the 
officers  of  his  army  and  civil  administration  should  ab- 
stain from  the  practice  of  compelling  the  Indians  in  the 
Spanish -American  colonies  to  carry  their  baggage,  and 
furnish  them  with  provisions  on  their  journey  without 
charge,  and  ordering  regular  payments  at  fair  rates  to 
be  made  for  their  services  thenceforth. 

Attached  to  this  is  a  decree  of  Pope  Clement  Xth, 
addressed  to  his  "  Beloved  Son  in  Christ,  Carlos,  Cath- 
olic King  of  the  Spains,"  commanding  and  ordering  the 
enforcement  of  the  decree  by  the  aid  of  the  clergy. 
This  document  was  filed  in  the  Custom-house  of  Gua- 
dalajara, in  which,  at  this  day,  the  officers  are  sitting, 
collecting  the  customs  duties  on  every  article  of  goods 
carried  from  one  state  to  another  in  the  republic,  as 
they  did  in  1676.  At  the  same  time  came  a  certificate 
of  honorary  membership  in  the  Academy  of  Sciences  of 
Guadalajara,  in  which  Mr.  Seward  is  styled  "  Defender 
of  the  liberty  of  the  Americas." 

The  citizens  of  Guadalajara,  without  distinction  of 
party,  united  on  Saturday  night  in  a  grand  farewell 
ball,  at  the  "  Institutio  de  Ciencias,"  in  honor  of  Mr. 
Seward's  visit,  it  being  understood  that  the  party  were 
to  leave  on  the  following  Tuesday  for  Guanajuato.  The 
building,  of  one  story,  surrounding  a  fine  large  smoothly 
paved  court-yard,  was  beautifully  and  very  tastefully 
decorated  for  the  occasion,  and  the  illumination  was 
very  brilliant.  The  tables  were  set  in  the  corridors,  and 


THE    BELLES    OF    GUADALAJARA.  131 

the  dancing  took  place  in  the  beautiful  hall  of  the  State 
Congress  of  Jalisco — a  Legislature,  by-the-by,  composed 
of  but  eleven  members,  a  dangerously  convenient  num- 
ber for  the  formation  of  a  "  ring  "-  —which  is  hung  with 
the  portraits  of  all  the  early  patriots  of  Mexico,  and 
paintings  and  engravings  of  rare  merit. 

The  hall  and  corridors  were  filled  with  as  fine  a  com- 
pany as  could  be  gathered  on  the  Continent,  and  with  all 
due  respect  to  my  fair  countrywomen,  I  must  admit,  that 
I  never  saw  so  many  beautiful  ladies  at  a  ball  of  the 
same  size  in  the  United  States.  The  ladies  here  usually 
make  their  own  dresses — there  is  but  one  French  mil- 
liner in  this  city  of  ninety  thousand  people — and  exhibit 
a  taste  in  the  selection  of  materials  and  colors  very  rare 
with  us.  Light  gauzes,  green  and  white,  blue  and 
white,  or  red,  green  and  white,  contrasted,  appear  to  be 
the  favorite,  and  the  dresses  are  cut  low  at  the  neck  and 
with  short  sleeves.  The  temptation  to  bring  out  their 
brilliant  black  hair  and  lustrous  eyes  in  strong  contrast 
by  the  use  of  pearl  powder  and  rouge,  is  often  too 
strong  for  resistance  with  the  belles  of  Guadalajara,  but 
this  feature  is  not  more  noticeable  in  one  of  their  ball 
rooms  than  in  one  of  our  own.  They  all  dance  wells 
but  their  parties  on  public  occasions  are  less  enjoyable 
from  the  fact  that  introductions  off-hand,  are  not  in 
vogue  as  with  us,  and  a  stranger  may  roam  around  all 
the  evening  without  making  an  acquaintance,  save  by 
chance. 

When  the  guests  had  cleared  the  tables  of  the  well- 
arranged  collation,  at  2  A.  M.,  SeSor  Don  Antonio  Go- 
mez Cuervo,  Governor  of  Jalisco,  a  plain,  honest,  out- 
spoken, and  energetic  man,  whose  vigorous  and  uncere- 
monious shooting  of  brigands  last  winter  got 


152  ELOQUENT    ADDKESSES. 

"  impeached  "  before  the  National  Congress,  (though  he 
came  out  triumphant  in  the  end,  and  returned  to  the 
work  with  more  vim  than  ever,), arose  and  introduced 
Sefior  Don  Juan  Ignacio  Matute,  who  read  a  brief  ad- 
dress of  welcome  which  I  translate  as  follows : 

Hon.  WM.  H.  SEWARD  :  He  who  has  given  his  blood,  and 
after  forty  years  continued  effort  succeeded  in  abolishing  Slavery 
in  his  country,  deserves  well  of  humanity.  He  who  aided  Mexico 
to  conquer  her  independence  a  second  time,  deserves  our  most 
cordial  thanks !  He,  who,  full  of  a  spirit  of  conciliation,  after  a 
Titanic  war,  contributed  to  his  utmost  ability  to  the  recom- 
mendation of  the  humbled  South,  deserves  well  of  his  country ! 
The  people  of  Jalisco,  filled  with  the  love  of  liberty,  salute 
with  the  greatest  respect  and  honor,  the  distinguished  American 
citizen,  William  H.  Seward !  May  Mexico,  my  adored  country, 
following  his  noble  example,  yield  a  frank  and  prudent  amnesty, 
and  so  conserve  her  future  prosperity  and  welfare.  On  that  day 
Hidalgo  and  Washington,  rising  above  the  shadows  of  the 
tomb,  shall  join  hands  together,  and  joy  shall  fill  the  hearts  of 
a  free  people.  Honor  to  the  abolitionist  of  Slavery ! 

Alfonso  Lancaster  Jones,  a  Mexican  citizen,  grandson 
of  the  founder  of  the  Lancasterian  school  system,  next 
addressed  the  audience  in  Spanish,  very  eloquently  and 
in  a  scholarly  manner. 

Mr.  Seward  then  spoke  as  follows : 

SENORS  Y  SENORAS  :  We  all  are  well  aware,  that  the  occupa- 
tion and  settlement  of  the  southern  part  of  the  American  con- 
tinent anticipated,  by  a  period  of  more  than  a  century,  the 
occupation  and  settlement  of  the  northern  portion  of  the  con- 
tinent— that  the  former  fell  to  tho  lot  chiefly  of  the  Latin 
nations  of  Europe,  and  was  conducted  upon  the  priciple  of  nn 
implicit  faith  and  confidence  in  the  ecclesiastical  and  civil  ideus 
and  institutions  which  prevailed  throughout  Europe  in  the 
fifteenth  century — that  the  occupation  and  settlement  of  the 


MR.  SEWARD'S  SPEECH  AND  TOAST.  153 

northern  portion  of  the  continent  fell  to  the  lot  of  the  German 
and  Sclavonic  races,  who  were  deeply  moved  by  ideas  of  politi- 
cal and  ecclesiastical  reforms.     The  result  has  been,  that  at  the 
beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century,  two  different,  and  in  many 
respects,  antagonistical  systems  came  face  to  face  with  each 
other ;  the  one  extending  along  the  Atlantic  coast,  from  the 
banks  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  inclement  regions  of  the  north, 
the  other  extending,  unbroken  and  undivided,  from  the  Missis- 
sippi over  the  southern  and  western  portions  of  the  continent.  The 
ideas  of  the  North  have  continually  gained  strength  everywhere, 
and  have  culminated  there  in  republican  institutions,  which  are 
based  upon  the  sovereignty  of  the  people,  and  which  guarantee, 
in  their  highest   perfection,  civil   and   religious  liberty.     The 
southern  nations  of  the  continent  have  accepted  the  same  broad 
and  noble  ideas,  but  the  perfect  establishment  of  them  in  a  sys- 
tem of  republican  government  has  encountered  the  resistance 
of  a  long-cherished  and  powerful  conservatism,  animated  and 
sustained  by  European  influence  and  intervention.     The  south- 
ern nations,  by  the  fidelity  with  which  they  have  adhered  to  the 
republican  system  through  so  many  and  such  serious  obstacles, 
have  given  abundant  evidence  that  they  will  ultimately  and  en- 
tirely acquiesce  and  cooperate  with  the  republican  nations  of  the 
north,  so  far  as  their  institutions  and  laws  are  founded  in  natural 
justice  and  equality.     What  remains,  and  all  that  remains  now 
necessary,  is  the  establishment  of  entire  tolerance  between  the 
North  American  States  and  the  Spanish  American  Republics, 
and  the  creation  of  a  policy  of  mutual  moral  alliance,  to  the 
end  that  all  external  aggression  may  be  prevented,  and  that  in- 
ternal peace,  law  and  order,   and   progress   may   be  secured 
throughout  the*  whole  continent.     The  people  of  Mexico  have 
not  misunderstood  me  in  my  past  political  career :  and  since  my 
visit  to  Mexico,  I  feel  encouraged  more  than  ever,  in  the  hope 
that  the  intimate  relations  which  have  been  already  secured, 
will  become  permanent  and  perpetual.    'It  is  a  satisfaction  to 
have  learned,  on  my  way  to  the  Capital,  that  the  policy  and 
sentiments  which  I  expect  to  find  prevailing  there  have  been 
fully  sanctioned  already  by  the  people  of  the  great,  important, 


154  EESPONSE   BY    GOVERNOR   CUERVO. 

and  leading  State  of  Jalisco.     I  ask  you  to  indulge  me,  gentle- 
men, in  the  sentiment : 
Peace,  prosperity,  and  honor  to  the  Governor  and  State  of 

Jalisco. 

• 

To  these  remarks,  and  the  toast,  Gov.  Cuervo  re- 
sponded as  follows: 

As  a  citizen  of  Jalisco,  as  a  Mexican,  as  an  American,  more 
so  as  a  free  man,  I  cordially  appreciate  the  splendid  initiative 
of  the  illustrious  guest  of  Jalisco,  Mr.  Seward,  for  the  creation 
of  the  great  continental  American  policy,  so  well  defined  by 
him  in  the  toast  I  have  the  honor  to  answer.  As  a  patriot,  I 
will  devote  to  the  realization  of  that  noble  idea  all  that  the  in- 
fluence of  an  honest  man  may  ever  be  worth,  with  all  the  faith 
inspired  in  me  by  the  remembrance  of  its  having  been  the 
golden  dream  of  one  of  the  most  eminent  martyrs  of  our  lib- 
erty, the  great  Degollado.  May  the  sisterhood  of  all  the 
American  republics  transform  the  world  of  Columbus  into 
what  it  must  be :  the  home  of  every  free  man,  with  no  other 
distinctions  but  those  imposed  on  all  true  hearted  men  by  the 
services  lent  to  humanity.  Among  the  citizens  of  that  glorious 
future  country,  our  noble  guest  will  be  one  of  the  first ;  not  for 
the  eminent  service  he  rendered  to  his  country  in  a  career  as  long 
as  honorable,  as  a  lawyer,  a  legislator,  senator,  governor,  and 
finally,  as  Secretary  of  State  with  the  glorious  martyr  Lincoln ; 
not  for  having  been  a  faithful  and  loyal  friend  of  Mexico  in  her 
days  of  painful  trial,  but  for  a  whole  life,  devoted  to  the  most 
noble  of  all  causes :  the  absolute  and  unconditional  emancipa- 
tion of  millions  of  slaves.  God  preserved  him  from  the  assas- 
sin's weapon  to  reward  him  with  the  complete  triumph  of  his 
holy  idea.  Join  me,  gentlemen,  in  this  sentiment :  To  that 
citizen,  whose  name  is  his  greatest  pride — Mr.  Seward.  [En- 
thusiastic applause.] 

I  have  given  these  speeches,  at  length,  as  an  illustra- 
tion of  the  spirit  and  aspirations  prevailing  in  this 


OUR   FRIENDS   AT   GUADALAJARA.  155 

community,  at  this  time,  and  as  a  part  of  the  history 
of  the  day.  That  these  aspirations  will  ever  be  fully 
realized  may  well  be  doubted ;  but  surely  every  right 
thinking  friend  of  humanity  will  pray  that  they  may 
be.  We  left  the  hall  at  3  A.  M.,  and  on  awaking  at  6 
o'clock  A.  M.  found  the  dancing  still  going  on. 

On  the  following  Tuesday  morning,  at  day -break,  our 
luggage  was  packed,  the  escort  ready,  and  the  stage  at 
the  door,  and  a  host  of  warm-hearted  friends  of  both 
sexes,  came  to  say  farewell — kiss,  and  bid  us  God-speed 
on  our  journey. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

FKOM  GUADALAJARA  TO  GUANAJUATO. 

% 

~VI7~E  left  Guadalajara  at  10: 30  A.  M.,  Tuesday,  Oct 
26th,  in  the  customary  style — a  large  guard  of 
the  regular  cavalry  of  the  Mexican  Army  in  advance, 
and  another  following  in  the  rear.  Our  vehicle  was  a 
capital  thorough-brace  coach,  sent  out  from  the  City  of 
Mexico  for  our  especial  use,  drawn  by  eight  fine  mules, 
and  driven  by  George  Elmore,  a  veteran  stage-driver, 
who  is  said  to  be  the  best  in  Mexico.  Elmore  was 
born  about  forty -five  years  ago,  at  No.  187  Broadway, 
New- York,  but  has  lost,  in  outward  appearance,  all  in- 
dications of  his  nationality.  When  addressed  in  Eng- 
lish, however,  his  hearty  "  You  bet !"  betrays  his  Cali- 
fornian  education  at  once. 

Gov.  Cuervo,  Senor  Don  Juan  Ignacio  Matute,  Senor 
Don  Luis  Rendon,  and  Senor  Canedo,  accompanied  iis 
as  far  on  the  way  as  the  old,  half-ruined  suburban  town 
of  San  Pedro,  and  there  took  leave  of  us  in  the  most 
affectionate  manner. 

Col.  Lomeli,  Commander  of  the  Guard  of  Jalisco, 
came  also  to  bid  us  adieu,  and  told  us  that  on  the  pre- 
vious evening  his  men  had  shot,  and  mortally  wounded, 
another  robber,  just  outside  the  gates  of  the  city  on  the 
road  over  which  we  had  lately  passed,  and  that  the  poor 
wretch  was  then  dying.  He  also  informed  us  that  the 
confirmation  of  the  sentence  of  death  upon  two  rob- 


DEPASTURE    FEOM    GUADALAJA11A.  157 

ers  then  in  prison  at  Guadalajara  had  arrived,  and 
that  they  would  be  shot  immediately.  Mr.  Seward  had 
been  appealed  to  by  their  father,  to  intercede  for  them 
at  the  city  of  Mexico,  but  they  were  in  their  graves 
long  before  we  reached  Guanajuato.  They  deserved  no 
sympathy. 

We  took  leave  of  our  old  friends,  who  had  accompa- 
nied us  all  the  way  from  Manzanillo,  with  much  regret, 
and  shall  not  soon  forget  their  kindness  and  constant 
care  for  our  welfare.  Henceforth,  we  were  under  the 
care  of  Senor  Don  Luis  G.  Bossero,  the  special  commis- 
sioner sent  out  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  meet  us  at 
Guadalajara  and  escort  us  to  the  capital.  He  is  a 
large,  fine-looking  gentleman,  exceedingly  courteous  and 
polite  in  his  manners,  and  speaks  English  with  just 
enough  foreign  accent  to  make  his  droll  stories  more 
amusing  and  enjoyable. 

Our  baggage  was  loaded  upon  a  cart  drawn  by  four 
mules,  abreast,  which  were  managed  by  about  a 
dozen  retainers  and  servants  of  different  degrees.  Our 
road,  all  day  for  thirty  miles,  led  us  over  a  broken,  hilly 
country,  something  like  Central  New  York  in  appear- 
ance, and  almost  entirely  devoted  to  cattle  raising. 
The  few  small  villages  through  which  we  passed  were 
all  inhabited  by  very  poor  people,  of  Indian  descent, 
and  the  country  generally  seemed  to  be  in  keeping. 
The  whole  country  is  underlaid  with  ancient  and  par- 
tially decomposed  lava,  and  the  roads,  though  hard 
enough  at  the  bottom,  were  fearfully  rough.  Our  bag- 
gage-cart was  repeatedly  stalled  or  overturned,  and  one 
of  the  mules  had  his  leg  broken,  and  was  turned  out  to 
die  by  the  roadside. 

A  few  miles  out  from  Guadalajara,  we  crossed  the 


158  ANCIENT    BRIDGE    OVER   THE    RIO    GRANDE. 

Rio  Grande  de  Santiago,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Chapala, 
upon  a  stone  bridge  of  some  nineteen  arches.  This 
bridge  is  one  of  the  remarkable  structures  erected  by 
the  old  Spaniards,  and  looks  as  if  it  might  stand  for 
many  centuries  more.  At  either  end  of  the  bridge  are 
statues  of  the  king  and  queen  of  Spain  who  were  reign- 
ing when  the  bridge  was  erected,  but  so  worn  and  de- 
faced by  time  as  to  be  unrecognizable.  The  stone  tab- 
lets on  which  the  records  of  the  erection  and  other  facts 
about  the  bridge  were  engraved,  have  all  been  plastered 
over  with  cement  to  deface  and  destroy  them,  for  some 
reason  not  apparent.  The  only  date  I  could  decipher 
was  1718,  and  that  appeared  to  refer  to  a  repair  instead 
of  the  erection  of  the  structure.  No  one  living  in  the 
vicinity  could  give  us  any  data  concerning  it. 

The  falls  of  this  river,  a  few  miles  below  where  we 
crossed,  are  said  to  compare,  not  unfavorably,  with  those 
of  Niagara,  but  we  did  not  see  them. 

We  staid  at  Zapotlanejo,  a  curious  old  town  of  four 
or  five  thousand  inhabitants,  on  our  first  night  out  from 
Guadalajara.     A  deputation  of  the  citizens,  on  horse- 
back, met  us  outside  the   town,  and   escorted  us  in. 
They  are  very  poor,  but  wonderfully  hospitable  people. 
The  houses  have  in  many  cases  barricades  upon  the 
roofs,  reminders  of  the  former  revolutions  and  inva- 
sions ;  and  the  remarkable  number  of  fair-haired  and 
fair-skinned  children  to  be  seen   on   the  streets,  tell 
the  same  story.     A  fine  band  welcomed  us,  the  citi- 
zens   made  speeches   in   the  evening,     and    were   an- 
swered by  Mr.  Seward ;  and  a  concert  by  native  Mexi- 
cans,   all  excellent   players,   the   harper   being   blind, 
closed  the  evening's   entertainment.     The  town  has  a 
fine  old  church,   at    present  under   repair,  and  stands 


SCENE  OF  HIDALGO'S  DEFEAT.  159 

in  a  small  but  fertile  valley,  surrounded  by  cane,  corn, 
and  rice  fields.  We  left  Zapotlanejo  on  the  morning  of 
Oct.  27th,  to  ride  thirty-two  miles  to  Tepotitlan,  a 
town  of  from  five  to  eight  thousand  people.  Our  roads 
had  been  bad  enough  in  all  conscience  before,  but  they 
grew  worse  and  worse  as  we  advanced,  and  the  night 
rains  grew  heavier.  This  day's  travel  was  the  hardest 
we  had  yet  experienced. 

Nine  miles  beyond  Zapotlanejo  we  crossed  the  Bridge 
of  Calderon,  a  stone  structure,  spanning  a  deep  but 
narrow  arroyo.  It  was  here  that  the  Padre  Hidalgo, 
the  Washington  of  Mexico,  with  eighty  thousand  men, 
all  Indians,  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  a  few 
wooden  cannon  which  burst  at  the  first  fire,  attacked 
the  Spaniards,  in  January  1811.  The  Spaniards  were 
not  a  tenth  as  strong,  numerically,  but  they  were  well 
armed,  and  all  the  desperate  valor  and  enthusiasm  of 
the  Indians  went  for  naught.  The  poor  fellows  rushed 
up  to  the  Spanish  cannons  and  pushed  their  hats  into 
them  to  prevent  their  going  off.  So  little  did  they 
know  of  the  use  and  power  of  artillery.  They  were 
mowed  down  by  thousands,  and  broke  and  fled  at  last 
in  utter  rout,  leaving  Hidalgo  to  make  his  way  to  Chi- 
huahua, where  he  was  betrayed  into  the  hands  of  his 
enemies,  sent  to  Guanajuato,  tried,  condemned,  and  exe- 
cuted. 

The  soil  in  this  vicinity  is  a  dark  red  earth,  which 
resembles  that  of  the  gold  belt  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
and  is  tenacious  to  the  last  degree  when  wet  up  by  the 
rains,  and  worked  into  brick  material  by  the  wheels  of 
vehicles.  We  passed  during  this  day,  a  poor  little 
village  at  which  the  butcher  Kqjas  captured  eighty 
men — all  the  able-bodied  male  population  of  the  vi- 


160 


GUTIEllUEZ,    THE    TE1UJOK    OF    JALISCO. 


cinity — and  murdered  them  all   in   cold   blood,  some 
years  since. 

One  of  the  most  fearful  brutes  who  ever  infested  the 
roads  of  Jalisco,  was  Simon  Gutierrez,  whose  band  was 

exterminated  by  the 
State  troops  in  the 
Spring  of  1869.  Gu- 
tierrez took  refuge 
in  the  city  of  Gua- 
dalajara, and  when 
his  hiding  place  was 
discovered,  (beneath 
a  floor,)  jumped  into 
the  middle  of  the 
troops,  with  a  re- 
volver, and  fought 
until  they  riddled 
him.  His  body  was 
propped  up  in  a  chair 
and  exhibited  three 
days  in  front  of  the 
prison  on  the  Plaza, 
as  shown  in  the  picture,  and  crowds  went  to  see  it  and 
make  sure  that  the  terror  of  Jalisco,  for  so  many  years, 
was  dead,  indeed,  at  last. 

The  poor  people,  all  along  the  road,  eke  out  a  misera- 
ble living  by  selling  a  few  small  fruits,  frijoles,  tortillas, 
etc.  etc.,  to  travelers.  I  found  one  old  fellow  sitting  on 
a  stone  by  the  roadside,  miles  from  any  habitation,  with 
about  a  half-bushel  of  the  nasty,  little  fruit  resembling 
our  northern  "mandrake,"  or  May-apple,  called  the 
guava — pronounced  "a^ava" — from  which  the  guava 
jelly  of  comim-iv  ^  I  asked  him  how  much 


TI1E   TEilKUlt    OK   JALISCO. 


THE  GRATEFUL  MERCHANT. 


161 


he  would  take  for  his  whole  establishment,  stock  in 
trade,  basket,  plates,  and  all.  After  a  nice  calculation, 
he  decided  that  it  was  worth  all  together  fully  twenty' 
five  cents,  I  paid  him  the  money  and  made  him  distrib- 
ute the  fruit  among  the  escort  which  just  then  came  up ; 
there  was  about  enough  to  give  them  all  the  cholic 
for  a 


THE  GRATEFUL  GUAVA  MERCHANT. 


grande  Jiomlre  from  the  Estados  Unidos  del  Norte  ?  I 
had  not  the  heart  to  deny  it ;  then  he  fell  on  his  knees, 
kissed  my  hand,  and  said  that  he  had  heard  of  me  often, 
and  now  thanked  God  that  he  had  been  permitted  to 
live  to  see  me  face  to  face.  I  had  intended  to  break 
the  plates  and  basket,  and  "  bust  up "  the  shop ;  but 
his  devotion  saved  him,  and  I  gave  them  back  to  him 
and  made  him  a  friend  of  the  Americans  for  life.  It  is 
pleasant  to  do  good  at  so  si^all  an  expense, 

On  our  second  night  out  if^jn  Guadalajara,  we  staid 


162  THE   ANCIENT   TOWN    OF   TEPOTITLAN. 

at  Tepotitlan.  It  was  9  o'clock  in  the  evening  when 
we  entered  this  ancient  town,  escorted  by  the  citizens 
with  torches,  while  bells  rang  a  tremendous  peal,  and 
a  brass  band  played  the  national  airs.  We  had  a  good 
dinner  at  the  house  of  the  curate  of  the  town,  and 
though  our  baggage  did  not  arrive  until  two  in  the 
morning,  we  were  provided  with  good  beds  and  comfort- 
able quarters,  furnished  by  these  kind-hearted  people. 
The  city  contains  from  five  to  six  thousand  people  and 
four  churches.  They  repair  the  churches,  and  let 
everything  else  go  to  ruin.  The  people  are  mostly  far- 
mers, in  a  small  way,  and  very  poor.  This  year  their 
crops  were  nearly  an  utter  failure,  and  they  appeared 
down-hearted. 

We  found  here  an  American  physician,  Dr.  John 
Rush,  nephew  of  the  famous  Philadelphia  physician 
of  that  name,  and  R.  E.  Armstrong,  a  resident  of  San 
Francisco,  traveling  with  his  family  for  their  health. 
Dr.  Rush  served  as  surgeon  in  the  1st  West  Tennessee 
(colored)  Volunteers,  during  the  Rebellion,  under  Gen. 
Thomas.  The  town  has  its  plaza,  with  public  fountains 
in  the  center,  and  all  towns  in  this  country  have.  The 
streets,  once  well  paved,  are  going  to  ruin. 

Next  morning,  we  drove  until  the  middle  of  the 
day,  over  a  poor,  open,  hilly,  and  mostly  barren  and 
uncultivated  country,  and  then  came  in  sight  of  the 
quaint,  old  city  of  Jalos,  far  below  us  in  a  tree-embow- 
ered valley. 

This  is  a  well-built  little  city  of  six  thousand  inhab- 
itants, standing  in  a  narrow  Canada,  wholly  hidden 
until  you  come  upon  the  brow  of  the  hill  from  which 
we  first  saw  it.  It  has  a  magnificent  old  church,  in 
fine  repair,  and  many  beautiful  private  residences, 


GKEAT    EXCESS    OF   WOMEN.  163 

painted  outside  and  inside  in  .brilliant  fresco.  How 
the  people  all  live  I  cannot  imagine.  As  we  entered 
the  city  the  bells  were  ringing  a  joyous  peal,  and  a 
band  playing  as  usual.  A  fine  house  had  been  pre- 
pared for  us  upon  the  plaza,  but  as  we  did  not  pro- 
pose to  remain  over  night,  we  drove  on,  and  lunched 
privately  at  the  residence  of  a  friend  of  Senor  Bossero. 
As  we  passed  through  the  streets  a  large  party  of 
school-boys  met  us,  and  at  a  sign  from  one  of  their 
number,  all  went  down  on  their  knees,  on  the  cobbles, 
holding  their  hats  in  their  hands. 

The  people,  as  we  advanced  eastward,  became  more 
white,  and  blue  eyes  and  fair  hair  were  not  uncom- 
mon. The  number  of  women  was  vastly  in  excess  of 
the  men,  and,  of  course,  lawful  marriage  is  out  of  the 
question  with  the  great  number  of.  the  poor  girls  of 
the  towns.  They  are  human,  and,  as  they  cannot 
marry,  is  it  a  wonder  that  they  sin  ?  Nearly  every 
girl  among  the  lower  orders,  from  fourteen  years  old 
upward,  whom  we  saw  as  we  passed  along,  had  a 
child  in  her  arms.  I  never  saw  so  little  corn,  and  so 
many  children  to  the  acre. 

That  night,  we  staid  at  Venta  de  Los  Pagarros, 
twenty-four  miles  from  Tepotitlan.  Senor  Perez,  the 
owner  of  this  great  hacienda,  which  is  twenty  miles 
long,  and  has  forty  thousand  head  of  stock  upon  it, 
has  owned  the  property  two  years  He  bought 
it  when  nobody  else  dared  occupy  it  on  account  of  the 
robbers.  His  house  is  literally  a  fortress,  impregnable 
to  all  but  heavy  artillery.  He  organized  his  neighbors 
at  once  into  a  military  corps,  and  commenced  a  war  of 
extermination  against  the  robbers.  In  an  hour,  he  can 
rally  two  hundred  well-armed  men,  and  as  soon  as  a 


164 


GEE  AT    CENTRAL    PLATEAU    OF   MEXICO. 


band  is  heard  of,  they  start  for  them,  hunt  them  down, 
and  shoot  them  all  like  dogs,  making  no  prisoners.  In 
this  way  he  has  restored  peace  to  the  neighborhood, 


VKNTA  DE  LOS  PAGAKROS. 


and  is  building  up  a  town  around  him,  already.  He 
and  his  band  have  killed  about  eighty  robbers  within 
two  years. 

From  this  point  the  country  grows  still  more  broken, 
being  cut  up  with  deep  arroyos,  canons  and  barrancas. 
The  mountains  in  the  distance  are  nearly  all  bare  of 
timber,' save  a  few  mesquite  trees,  and  the  country  lias 
the  general  appearance  of  Western  Texas  along  the 
southern  edge  of  the  great  Llano  Estacado.  We 
were  now  ascending  all  the  time,  and  had  reached 
an  altitude  of  about  six  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 
We  had  left  the  orange,  palm,  banana,  and  other  fruits, 
and  all  the  flowers  of  the  tropics  behind  us,  and  were 
upon  the  Great  Central  Plateau  of  Mexico.  The 


ST.    JOHN  OF   THE    LAKES.  165 

scenery  is  mostly  tame,  and  the  country  poor,  and  com- 
paratively uninteresting. 

Just  as  a  heavy  shower  came  upon  us,  we  met  the 
deputation  of  mounted  citizens  from  San  Juan  de  Los 
Lagos  or  "  St.  John  of  the  Lakes,"  and  dashing  down  a 
long,  winding,  well-paved  grade,  into  a  deep  Canada, 
and  over  a  high,  well-built  stone  bridge,  entered  that 
substantial-looking  city.  A  splendid  house  was  pro- 
vided for  the  company,  and,  as  usual,  we  found  that 
the  family,  having  placed  it  at  our  disposal,  had  left  it 
entirely  themselves. 

The  District  Judge,  a  young  man,  apparently  of 
twenty -five  years,  who  has  the  power  of  life  and  death 
over  forty  thousand  people — there  is  no  jury  system 
here,  and  no  appeal  in  criminal  cases,  though  sentence 
of  death  passed  by  him  must  be  confirmed  by  the  Su- 
preme Court  of  Mexico  before  it  is  finally  executed— 
with  the  Political  Prefect,  and  others,  was  in  attend- 
ance to  welcome  Mr.  Seward,  and  to  see  that  the  party 
wanted  nothing.  They  told  us  that  they  had  shot 
many  robbers  of  late,  but  that  there  were  still  a  num- 
ber of  very  skillful  ones  in  the  vicinity. 

Here  and  at  Jalos,  for  the  first  time,  we  saw  fences 
made  on  the  simplest  possible  plan,  from  the  great  or- 
gano  cactus.  This  cactus  is  eight-sided,  and  shoots  up 
straight  as  an  arrow,  from  ten  to  twenty-five  feet  in 
height,  and  five  to  eight  inches  in  thickness.  They  cut 
the  cactus  into  sections  of  the  right  length,  stick  the 
cut  end  into  a  trench,  cover  the  dirt  around  it  to  the 
depth  of  a  foot,  and  the  fence  is  made.  The  pieces  are 
set  as  closely  together  as  possible,  and,  as  they  take 
root  and  grow  for  centuries,  the  fence  improves  with 
age,  instead  of  going  to  decay  like  other  fences.  The 


166 


GREAT  CHURCH  OF  SAN  JUAN. 


nopal  or  prickly  pear  grows  to  perfection  here,  and  the 
aloe  or  century  plant,  as  well,  or  better,  than  in  the 
tierra  caliente.  The  town  stands  in  a  deep  Canada, 
and  a  few  inferior  orange  trees  grow  in  the  court-yards 
on  the  sunny  side.  Wheat  grows  well  in  this  vicinity, 
and  the  flour,  too,  is  excellent,  almost  equal  to  that  of 
California,  and  much  superior  to  that  of  the  Atlantic 
States. 

Looking  up  from  the  plaza,  I  gazed  in  silent  admira- 
tion at  the  magnificent 
cathedral  fi  n  i  s  h  e  d 
within  one  week  of 
one  hundred  years 
before — they  were 
makingthemost  exten- 
sive preparations  for 
celebrating  the  centen- 
nial anniversary — and 
the  finest  I  had  seen  in 
Mexico,  not  even  ex. 
cepting  that  of  Gua- 
dalajara. Its  two 
graceful  towers, 
wrought  and  carved 
with  elaborate  rii-li- 
nese,  to  the  very  sum- 
mit, from  the  beautiful 

pink  lava  rock  of  which  the  whole  structure  is  built,  are 
each  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  height,  and  the  main 
building  is  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  long.  The  grand 
dome  is  covered  with  brilliant  tiles  in  mosaic,  and  the 
vaulted  roof,  of  solid  masonry,  is  at  least  seventy-five 
feet  above  the  floor. 


CHURCH  OF  SAN  JUAN. 


WHAT   I    SAW    IN    IT.  167 

In  the  basement,  I  descended  eight  wide  stone  steps, 
all  cut  from  a  single  piece  of  stone,  and  in  the  sacristy 
saw  the  tomb  of  the  projector  of  the  cathedral,  who 
died  four  years  before  its  completion,  and  numer- 
ous magnificent  and  valuable  old  paintings.  One 
is  a  picture  of  the  Virgin,  which  performs  miracles 
daily.  Around  this  picture  are  hundreds  of  votive  of- 
ferings, in  the  shape  of  others,  illustrating  the  miracles 
performed  by  the  Virgin  ifi.  behalf  of  the  persons  offering 
them.  Some  of  these  were  ludicrous  in  the  extreme. 

Entering  the  main  building,  I  saw  graceful  columns 
in  pale  green  and  gold,  supporting  the  fretted  arched 
roof  in  the  same  colors,  a  magnificent  altar  in  marble 
and  silver,  a  chapel  with  a  shrine  of  silver,  and  count- 
less pictures  and  images,  and  decorations  of  barbaric 
richness.  The  rich  notes  of  a  superb  organ  resounded 
through  the  building,  priests  in  gorgeous  vestments 
mumbled  the  morning  services,  and  incense  filled  the 

O  7 

air.  Gold  and  silver,  satin  and  gilding,  met  the  eye  on 
every  side,  and  the  scene  at  first  glance  was  one  of  be- 
wildering beauty. 

But  I  looked  around  me  and  saw  men  and  women, 
barefooted  and  in  rags,  come  creeping  over  the  wet 
nagging  of  the  wide  yard,  and  down  the  long  aisle 
upon  their  knees,  some  of  them  carrying  lighted  can- 
dles to  offer  at  the  shrine  in  fulfillment  of  vows  made 
when  the  assistance  of  the  Virgin  was  greatly  needed, 
or  groveling  on  the  nagging  at  the  doors ;  and  I  glanced 
from  the  sleek  priests,  who  take  in  sixty  thousand  dol- 
lars per  annum  from  votive  offerings,  to  the  poor 
wretches  who  toil  for  it  and  give  it,  and  I  went  out 
with  more  of  bitterness  than  satisfaction  in  my  heart. 

At  the  door  I  saw  a   conspicuously  posted  list  of 


1(58  LAGOS   AND    ITS    CHURCHES. 

the  names  of  those  who  had  during  the  month  offered 
wax-candles  at  the  shrine.  Four-fifths  of  those  who 
offered  these  candles  and  paid  the  price,  had  tortillas 
plain,  or  an  ear  of  boiled  corn  for  their  dinner,  dirty 
rags  for  clothing,  and  the  earth  for  a  bed.  God 
be  thanked,  the  last  great  temple  of  any  faith  has  been 
built  on  earth  from  the  sweaty  ajnd  blood  of  the  toiling 
millions,  and  these  things  shall  not  be  for  all  tune. 

From  San  Juan  de  los  Lagos  we  proceeded,  on  the 
30th  of  October,  to  Lagos,  thirty-six  miles  eastward  to- 
ward Guanajuato,  arriving  at  5  p.  M.  Here  we  had  in- 
tended to  remain  all  night  and  go  on  at  sunrise ;  but 
of  the  three  carts  conveying  our  bedding  and  extra 
luggage,  only  one  got  through  before  morning,  the  oth- 
ers being  out  all  night  in  a  driving  rain,  and  stuck  fast, 
in  the  mud  and  darkness.  This  delayed  us  so  that  we 
were  compelled  to  pass  the  day  in  the  handsome  house 
which  the  citizens,  who  met  us  in  carriages  outside  the 
city,  had  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  party. 

The  city  of  Lagos  has  a  population  of  all  hues  and 
ages,  estimated  at  eighteen  thousand,  and  of  course 
supports  half  a  dozen  churches,  whose  bells  keep  up 
an  incessant  ding-donging  from  morning  to  night.  The 
finest  of  these  is  the  Parochial  Church,  an  immense 
structure,  larger  even  than  the  cathedral  at  San  Juan  de 
los  Lagos,  built  on  the  same  plan,  arid  only  second  to  it 
in  costliness  and  elegance.  It  was  founded  in  1784,  and 
the  spires  of  cut  stone,  like  those  at  San  Juan,  are  as 
yet  only  two-thirds  finished ;  they  are  still  at  work 
upon  them.  The  interior  is  exquisitely  beautiful,  with 
pale  blue  and  gold  ceilings,  carvings  and  statuary,  tiled 
floor,  and  vaulted  fretwork  roof.  The  congregation,  as- 
sembled at  the  early  morning  mass,  are  even  more 


A    WELL-PRESERVED    ROMAN.  169 

ragged  and  devout  than  that  at  San  Juan;  hardly  a 
single  representative  of  the  richer  and  better  educated 
classes  being  present. 

The  specialty  of  this  church  is  its  Saint.  I  forget 
his  name,  but  the  record  posted  on  the  walls  shows 
that  he  was  a  Roman  soldier  who  suffered  martyrdom 
for  his  faith  (Christian,  of  course,  though  that  is  not 
stated,)  in  Rome,  so  the  record  affirms.  His  body  was 
found  by  miracle,  A.  D.,  901,  preserved  as  if  he  were 
but  just  defunct,  and  he  was  canonized  as  a  saint. 

From  Rome  the  body  was  carried  to  Spain,  and  from 
thence  brought  to  Lagos  and  placed  on  the  altar  with 
the  Bishop's  own  hands  eighty  years  ago.  The  body  is 
inclosed  in  a  magnificent  casket  about  five  feet  long,  by 
three  broad,  and  four  high,  with  sides  of  glass,  and 
corners  and  top  of  richly  gilded  metal.  As  a  special 
favor  to  Mr.  Seward,  the  doors  before  the  casket,  as  it 
stands  in  the  wall,  were  opened,  and  we  went  up  and 
looked  into  it,  while  hundreds  of  awe-stricken  worship- 
ers knelt  and  crossed  themselves  in  silent  adoration. 

From  a  close  inspection  of  this  remarkably  well-pre- 
served specimen,  I  am  able  to  draw  the  following  con- 
clusions :  First,  that  the  ancient  Roman  soldiers  were 
about  four  feet,  eight  or  nine  inches  in  height — not  over 
five  feet — allowing  a  fair  margin  for  shrinkage ;  second, 
that  they  had  no  beard,  and  their  faces  were  as  delicate 
as  that  of  a  girl ;  third,  that  they  had  wax  teeth,  fin- 
ger and  toe-nails,  and  cuticle  on  hands,  face,  and  shins, 
and  wore  gilt  pasteboard  tunics,  and  coats  of  mail,  silk 
stockings,  and  fancy  bootees.  I  respect  every  man's 
religion,  and  mean  no  disrespect  for  this  illustrious  de- 
ceased as  a  saint,  but  as  a  soldier  I  cannot  refrain  from 
the  remark,  that  if  he  was  in  life  a  fair  specimen  of  the 


170  SCENES    IN   THE   MARKET   PLACE. 

Roman  troops,  I  would  back  the  National  Guard,  Capt. 
Ben  Pratt,  of  San  Francisco,  or  the  MacMahon  Guard, 
Gen.  Cazneau,  of  the  same  place,  to  give  odds  and 
knock  the  starch  out  of  the  entire  phalanx.  Of  course 
such  men  could  as  bravely  die  for  their  faith  as  if  they 
weighed  three  hundred  pounds,  and  measured  six  feet 
two  inches  in  their  stocking-feet,  each ;  nevertheless,  I 
am  no  longer  surprised  at  the  overthrow  of  Rome  by 
the  Goths  and  Vandals,  since  I  have  seen  what  kind  of 
fighting  stock  they  had. 

One  thing  is  apparent  in  these  churches  of  Central 
Mexico,  at  the  first  glance,  viz, :  that  the  people  who 
come  there  to  worship  are  in  earnest,  and  not  hypocrites 
or  doubters.  They  accept  the  whole  faith  as  it  is  taught 
them,  without  hesitation  or  mental  reservation,  and 
never  seek  to  evade  its  responsibilities,  or  hide  the  fact 
of  their  faith  when  in  the  presence  of  unbelievers.  For 
that  I  honor  them  above  many  of  my  own  countrymen 
and  countrywomen. 

Sunday  is  the  great  market-day  in  Lagos,  and  no 
sooner  is  morning  service  over  than  the  two  plazas  and 
the  streets  between  them  swarm  with  buyers  and  sell- 
ers. Venders  of  peanuts,  peppers,  yams,  vegetables, 
bread,  tortillas,  and  fruits  of  all  descriptions,  raise  enor- 
mous umbrellas,  in  shape  exactly  like  those  of  the  Chi- 
nese, covered  with  matting,  and  ten  or  twelve  feet 
across,  upon  stout  poles,  spread  out  their  little  stocks 
on  the  pavement,  and  hour  after  hour  cry  their  wares, 
announcing  in  a  loud  voice  how  much  of  any  given 
thing  they  sell  for  a  daquo  or  qvwtitta,  a  cent  or  three 
cents.  Earthenware,  charcoal,  sugar,  salt,  and  other 
goods  are  sold  in  one  plaza,  dry  goods  in  another,  and 
beef  in  little  shops  on  a  street  between  the  two.  Men 


A   MULISH    FKEAK.  171 

with  piles  of  rebosas  on  their  shoulders,  walk  up  and 
down  among  the  crowd,  and  others,  with  brilliant-hued 
serapes  and  ponchos,  hang  their  goods  against  the  walls, 
while  young  girls  and  old  women,  nearly  all  with  in- 
fants at  their  breasts,  sit  on  the  curb-stones  and  sell  hot 
soups,  etc.,  from  jars,  for  half  a  cent  a  bowl. 

We  left  Lagos  Nov.  1,  for  a  thirty-six  mile  ride  to 
Leon,  being  led  to  expect  a  fine  ride  and  easy  trip.  To 
cut  off  three  or  four  blocks,  the  driver  avoided  the  fine 
new  bridge  and  drove  directly  into  the  river,  which 
came  up  to  the  body  of  the  stage  and  was  quite  rapid 
and  broad.  The  mules,  suspicious  of  the  security  of  the 
bottom,  baulked  in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  not 
all  the  lashing  by  a  half-dozen  volunteer  cocJieros  and 
postilions,  and  curses  and  blasphemy  enough  to  sink  a 
ship,  would  start  them  a  foot.  We  were  taken  off  in 
boats,  and  no  sooner  were  we  landed  than  we  saw  the 
pig-headed  mules  start  up  of  their  own  free  will  and 
walk  majestically  ashore.  Perhaps  their  hides  did  not 
suffer  for  that  freak. 

Then  we  entered  a  broad  alameda  lined  with  immense 
trees  of  the  variety  known  farther  north  as  the  Califor- 
nia pepper  tree,  but  here  as  the  Peruvian,  which  has 
drooping  limbs  and  foliage,  giving  it  the  graceful  ap- 
pearance of  the  weeping  willow,  and  is  at  this  season 
covered  with  long  clusters  of  bright  red  berries  which 
inclose  the  pungent  black  pepper  grains.  This  alameda 
is  flanked  by  ditches  inclosing  cultivated  fields,  which 
are  higher  than  the  road.  Of  course  we  found  it  a  river 
of  mud  and  water,  and  almost  impassable. 

We  had  not  gone  a  mile  before  we  found  our  three 
luggage  cars  which  had  started  before  daylight  all  down 
in  the  mud  and  unloaded.  Pleasant  prospect  indeed ! 


172  ARRIVAL   AT   LEON. 

After  more  than  three  miles  of  floundering  in  the  mud, 
running  along  the  embankments,  and  climbing  in  and 
out  of  the  stage,  we  reached  higher  ground  at  noon, 
and  went  on  more  comfortably,  over  an  open,  rolling 
country  wholly  devoted  to  stock  raising,  until  we 
reached  the  boundary  of  the  State  of  Jalisco,  and  en- 
tered the  State  of  Guanajuato,  "nine  miles  from  Leon. 

Just  at  this  point,  we  saw  a  body  of  troops  moving 
along  the  road  in  advance  of  us.  When  they  discov- 
ered us,  they  made  off  at  full  speed  and  disappeared. 
A  mile  further  on,  I  saw  some  of  them  peeping  at  us 
from  behind  a  stone  wall,  and  we  subsequently  learned 
that  in  order  to  give  an  appearance  of  perfect  safety,  to 
the  road — our  regular  escort  left  us  at  Lagos,  and  re- 
turned to  Guadalajara — they  had  been  instructed  to 
keep  out  of  our  sight  entirely,  and  we  were  to  travel 
through  the  State  of  Guanajuato  without  any  apparent 
escort. 

Seven  miles  from  Leon  we  came  out  upon  the  summit 
of  a  range  of  broken  hills,  and  looked  down  into  a 
lovely  valley,  highly  cultivated,  filled  with  fields  of 
green,  growing  grain,  and  tall  ripe  maize,  and  dotted 
here  and  there  with  rich  and  beautiful,  white- walled 
haciendas. 

Entering  the  city,  we  found,  for  the  first  time  in  our 
journey,  no  deputation  with  carriages  waiting  to  re- 
ceive the  party,  and  drove  directly  to  the  magnificent 
house  just  finished  and  beautifully  furnished  for  the  oc- 
casion— fronting  on  the  grand  plaza — which  had  been 
prepared  for  us.  The  Prefecto  Politico  of  Leon,  Col. 
Rosado,  and  a  deputation  of  the  ayuntamiento,  called 
at  once  to  say  that  they  had  not  received  the  telegram 
announcing  the  departure  of  Mr.  Seward  from  Lagos, 


THE   CITY   AND    THE   PEOPLE.  173 

and  that  we  had  arrived  many  hours  sooner  than  ex- 
pected, which  accounted  for  the  apparent  neglect  to  send 
out  carriages  to  meet  the  coach. 

This  city,  during  the  war,  under  the  wise  administra- 
tion of  Gen.  Doblado  who  tolerated  all  classes  who 
obeyed  the  laws,  irrespective  of  Republican  or  Imperi- 
alist tendencies,  gained  largely  in  population,  and  is 
now  one  of  the  most  prosperous,  or  least  unprosperous 
towns  in  the  country.  The  population  of  the  city 
proper  is  eighty-two  thousand,  or  two  thousand  more 
than  that  of  Guadalajara,  and  the  smaller  towns  in  the 
suburbs  swell  the  population  of  the  municipality  to  one 
hundred  thousand  or  more.  There  are  very  few  rich 
families,  most  of  the  people  being  tradesmen,  boot-mak- 
ers, saddlers,  hat-makers,  rebosa  aud  serape  weavers, 
workers  in  metal,  etc.,  etc.  There  are  many  pure  white 
families,  and  the  average  complexion  of  the  population 
is  much  lighter  than  in  the  towns  nearer  the  Pacific 
coast. 

The  country  around  has  been  much  afflicted  with 
robbers,  but  Col.  Rosado,  acting  vigorously  in  conjunc- 
tion with  other  State  and  Federal  authorities,  is  fast 
thinning  them  out.  Only  a  month  or  two  since  he  dis- 
covered the  existence  of  a  band  of  seventy  of  these 
gentry  in  a  cave  near  the  road  to  Guanajuato,  tele- 
graphed to  the  three  principal  towns  in  the  vicinity,  or- 
ganized a  simultaneous  attack  upon  them,  and  captured 
them  all  at  a  blow.  He  took  his  share  of  the  captives 
to  Leon,  and  tried  and  shot  them  ;  but  those  taken  to 
some  of  the  other  towns  were,  after  some  ceremony,  set 
free,  probably  to  resume  the  practice  of  their  profession. 

The  town  appears  very  orderly,  and  is  well  and  com- 
pactly built.  It  has  some  old  convent  buildings,  now 


174  DISCOUNTING    A   MIRACLE. 

converted  into  free  schools,  and  one  immense  church, 
and  several  minor  ones.  I  was  disappointed  in  these 
churches.  The  largest  has  beautiful  colored  glass  me- 
morial windows,  the  pictures  being  of  the  highest  grade 
of  merit,  and  many  rich  paintings,  but  otherwise  it 
does  not  equal  that  at  San  Juan  de  los  Lagos,  and  the 
others  are  comparatively  poor  affairs,  very  old,  and  not 
in  the  best  of  repair. 

Apropos  of  churches,  I  must  relate  an  incident  which 
recently  occurred  here.  Two  robbers  had  been  arrested 
by  the  authorities,  and  they — the  robbers — threw 
themselves  upon  the  protection  of  the  new  saint  of  the 
place,  for  whose  canonization  sixty  thousand  dollars  in 
coin,  wrung  from  the  hard  and  stinted  earnings  of  the 
laboring  poor  had  just  been  forwarded  by  the  Bishop 
of  Leon  to  Rome,  who,  probably  from  a  fellow-feeling, 
and  possibly  old  association,  so  interested  himself  in 
their  behalf,  that  the  hearts  of  the  authorities  were 
moved  and  they  were  discharged  without  trial.  The 
priests  at  once  seized  upon  this  fact  as  a  miracle,  and 
played  for  all  there  was  on  the  board.  They  issued .  a 
pamphlet  or  tract,  setting  forth  the  details  of  the  miracle, 
and  rudely  illustrated  for  the  edification  of  the  faithful. 
But,  alas,  they  had  crowed  before  they  were  fairly  out 
of  the  woods,  and  the  result  was-  discouraging.  Col. 
Rosado,  who  is  an  educated  man,  and  appears  to  have 
a  prejudice  against  saints  and  highway  robbers  being 
allowed  to  work  together,  immediately  re-arrested  the 
two  robbers,  tried,  convicted,  and  shot  them,  thus 
spoiling  the  miracle,  and  causing  the  impression  to  go 
abroad  in  the  community  that  even  sixty  thousand  dol- 
lar saints  will  not  always  do  to  gamble  on. 

When  we  entered  Leon,  the  Feast  of  All-Saints  was 


THE   FEAST    OF   ALL-SAINTS.  175 

in  full  blast.  The  plaza  is  large  and  very  beautiful, 
being  surrounded  by  a  handsome  iron  railing,  flanked 
with  tall,  heavy-foliaged  fresno  trees,  and  paved  with 
little  cobbles  in  a  beautiful  mosaic,  filled  with  beautiful 
flowers,  and  has  a  very  large  and  elegant  fountain  in 
the  center.  The  municipal  palace,  the  handsomest 
building  of  the  kind,  exteriorly,  which  we  had  seen  in 
Mexico,  and  other  public  buildings,  and  rows  of  stores 
with  broad-arched  portals,  front  this  plaza.  During 
the  feast  the  broad  sidewalk  around  the  plaza  is  wholly 
giyen  up  to  the  sale  of  articles  peculiar  to  the  occasion. 
It  is  the  custom  of  the  country  to  distribute  bon-bons, 
confectionery  made  into  every  conceivable  form  in  imi- 
tation of  birds,  beasts,  fishes,  men,  angels,  devils,  <fec., 
&c.j  richly  gilded  and  elaborately  ornamented,  among 
all  one's  friends,  and  especially  among  the  children. 
Around  the  entire  plaza  was  a  row  of  stalls  constructed 
of  light  matting  and  cloth,  tastefully  decorated  with 
colored  curtains  and  flowers,  devoted  exclusively  to  the 
sale  of  this  confectionery  and  dulces,  and  attended  by 
women  old  and  young.  Beyond  the  sidewalk  was 
another  row  of  stalls  devoted  to  the  sale  of  wax-candles 
of  all  lengths  from  six  inches  to  six  feet  for  offerings 
at  the  church  altars. 

When  evening  set  in,  the  crowd  which  surged  around 
the  plaza  became  so  dense  that  it  was  almost  impossi- 
ble to  pass  through  it,  and  when  the  lamps  were  lighted, 
and  the  military  band  played  its  most  inspiring  airs, 
the  scene,  as  we  looked  down  upon  it  from  the  balcony 
of  Our  house,  was  the  most  animated  and  brilliant  we 
had  ever  seen  in  Mexico.  At  about  9^  p.  M.  the  com- 
mon and  partly-dressed  people  began  to  thin  out,  and 
the  richer  and  more  pretentious  came  in  to  make  their 


176  LEON   BY   LAMP-LIGHT. 

purchases,  sit  on  the  benches,  or  promenade  up  and 
down.  In  company  with  Mr.  Burgess,  an  American 
photographer  resident  here,  Mr.  Fitch  and  myself  walked 
around  in  the  crowd  for  some  time.  The  booth-keepers 
cried  their  wares — fair  women,  old  men  and  women, 
and  children  in  rags  or  tastefully  dressed,  walked  up 
and  down,  young  men  in  \)Toa,d^sombreros  and  gorgeous 
sempes  lounged  around  in  groups,  beggars,  blind,  rag- 
ged, filthy,  and  hideous,  groveled  on  the  pavement  of 
the  street  and  yelled  forth  their  wants,  and  incessantly 
discoursed  on  the  blessedness  of  giving  in  charity; 
while  the  church  bells  sent  forth  their  clangor  until  the 
whole  air  was  filled  with  a  surging  ocean  of  sound. 

We  were  lost  in  the  crowd,  and  admiration  of  the 
scene.  Just  then  a  party  of  tall  young  men,  hustled 
us,  and  I,  having  had  doubt,  from  the  start,  of  the  safety 
of  money  and  valuables,  which  to  a  considerable  extent 
I  carried  on  my  person,  got  on  the  outside.  Unsus- 
pecting Mr.  Fitch,  conscious  of  his  own  rectitude,  and 
suspecting  no  one  else,  kept  on  a  few  seconds,  and  then 
suddenly  discovered  that  the  pocket  in  the  skirt  of  his 
coat  behind  had  been  cut  out,  and  he  was  minus  a 
handkerchief,  two  pair  of  old  kid  gloves,  and  a  pocket 
guide  to  Spanish  conversation,  which,  if  it  proves  as 
great  a  curse  to  the  thief  as  it  had  been  to  the  owner, 
will  have  a  tendency  to  cause  him  to  abstain  from 
stealing  for  the  remainder  of  his  life.  Our  party  ad- 
journed at  once  to  the  house,  determined  to  retire  for 
the  night  in  the  best  order  possible. 

Next  morning  I  went  out  alone,  and  found  the  chiirch- 
es,  as  usual,  filled  with  devout  worshipers — even  the 
pavement  outside  was  covered  with  kneeling  devotees. 
At  one  of  them  the  janitor  was  just  passing  around  a 


CHARITY   MISCONSTRUED.  177 

deep  copper  plate,  in  which  he  had  collected  about  a 
quart  of  claquos  and  quartillas  /  there  was  not  a  single 
silver  or  gold  coin  in  the  lot.  As  he  looked  significant- 
ly at  me,  I  dropped  an  American  dime  into  the  plate. 
Looking  back  a  few  minutes  later,  I  saw  him  standing 
by  the  corner  of  the  church,  outside,  biting  the  dime, 
and  regarding  me  with  evident  suspicion.  He  undoubt- 
edly thought  that  I  had  been  palming  counterfeit  coin  on 
the  Church.  I  do  not  allow  any  man  to  misinterpret 
my  motives,  and  henceforth  I  give  nothing  but  copper. 

The  city  of  Leon  is  compactly  built,  and  in  all  the 
central  part  of  the  town  the  inhabitants  cultivate  flow- 
ers in  the  patios  or  court-yards,  and  more  especially 
upon  terraces  and  on  the  roofs  of  their  houses.  From 
the  observatory  upon  our  house  I  looked  down  upon 
the  city,  and  saw  one  vast  garden  of  brilliant  flowers, 
thus  cultivated  in  tall  urns  of  fancifully  fashioned  earth- 
enware. Such,  on  a  larger  scale,  were  the  famous 
"  Hanging  Gardens  "  of  Nineveh.  The  custom  is  a  pleas- 
ant one,  and  greatly  contributes  to  the  enjoyment  of 
life  in  a  crowded  city.  Leon  has  about  the  climate  of 
San  Francisco  at  this  season — the  first  of  November — 
and  the  average  temperature  here  is  said  to  be  from 
sixty  to  eighty  degrees  all  the  year  round.  The  finest 
tropical  fruits  do  not  flourish  here,  but  oranges,  and 
some  other  fruits,  such  as  are  cultivated  with  success 
in  the  vicinity  of  Los  Angelos,  California,  grow  in 
great  luxuriance. 

As  I  have  previously  stated,  we  had  left  our  military 
escort  behind  at  Lagos,  in  the  State  of  Jalisco,  Senor 
Bossero  having  been  assured  by  telegraph  that  the 
road  was  perfectly  secure.  Eighteen  miles  from  Leon 

we  stopped  to  change  mules,  and  Mr.  Seward,  Mr.  Fitch, 
12 


178  NAKllOW   ESCAPE   FKOM    BANDITS. 

and  Mr.  Burgess,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Leon, 
were  walking  a  mile  or  thereabouts  in  advance,  not 
suspecting  any  danger,  while  I  rode  forward  upon  a  sad- 
dle-horse loaned  me  by  Mr.  Burgess.  The  stage  had 
been  delayed  by  our  first  upset,  which  had  no  more 
serious  consequences  than  the  landing  of  Mr.  Seward's 
colored  servant  in  a  nice,  healthy  nopal,  or  prickly-pear 
plant,  the  spines  of  which  will  stay  with  him  long  after 
his  return  to  the  United  States,  and  we  were  some  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes  behind  time. 

Just  then  we  saw  a  detachment  of  Mexican  cavalry, 
some  twenty-five  in  number,  coming  toward  us.  When 
they  saw  the  party  they  ranged  themselves  in  double 
line  to  salute.  We  had  almost  reached  them  when  one 
of  their  number,  who  had  been  scouting  along  in  a 
corn-field,  some  distance  from  the  road,  raised  a  shout, 
and  in  an  instant  the  whole  party  dashed  off  into  the 
corn  at  full  gallop,  unslinging  their  carbines  ready  for 
action  as  they  went.  I  rode  after  them,  anxious  to  find 
out  the  cause  of  this  sudden  stampede,  and  saw  one  of 
them  rise  up  like  a  circus-rider  and  stand  upright  on 
his  saddle.  He  descried  something  in  another  direc- 
tion, and  with  a  yell,  the  squad  changed  its  course  and 
dashed  off  with  redoubled  speed.  A  few  minutes 
later  I  saw  a  party  of  men  in  dark  clothing,  running 
over  a  high  ridge  a  mile  away  beyond  a  ravine,  making 
for  a  timbered  mountain  in  the  south-west,  and  in  five 
minutes  more  the  white  caps  of  the  troops  could  be 
seen  darting  in  and  out  among  the  mesquite  trees  in 
close  pursuit. 

We  watched  them  until  they  disappeared  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  then  rode  on,  saying  little,  but  each  "  think- 
ing a  heap."  Had  the  stage  not  been  delayed  by  the 


THE   MINES    OIT    LA  LUZ.  179 

upset,  or  had  the  soldiers  arrived  fifteen  minutes  later 

well,  I  will  not  pursue  the  subject  further,  as  it  is 

unprofitable  ;  but  if  we  did  not  have  a  narrow  escape 
from  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  party  of  high-toned 
gentlemen  who  were  laying  for  us  in  that  corn-field,  I 
am  a  sinner.  I  am  always  grateful  for  hospitalities, 
but  in  this  case,  am  more  than  willing  to  take  the 

/  O 

will  for  the  deed.  As  I  saw  the  flying  bandito  and 
the  pursuing  troops  disappear,  I,  for  the  first  time, 
fully  appreciated  the  force  of  the  quotation: 

"  Tis  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view." 

All  day  we  were  in  sight  of  the  range  of  treeless 
mountains,  on  the  summit  of  which  are  situated  the 
famous  mines  of  La  Luz,  which  occupy  a  position 
not  unlike  that  of  those  on  the  the  top  of  Treasure 
Hill,  at  Treasure  City,  in  the  White  Pine  district, 
Nevada.  We  could  see  vast  piles  of  quartz,  probably 
low  grade  ores,  upon  the  mountain  side.  These  ores, 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  tons  in  amount,  cannot 
now  be  worked  to  advantage,  owing  to  the  heavy 
taxes  on  bullion,  and  to  the  cost  of  beneficiating 
them;  but  in  time  they  will  yield  a  vast  amount  of 
treasure  under  more  favorable  circumstances.  The 
mountains  in  which  the  silver  mines  of  Guanajuato 
are  situated,  resemble  those  in  which  the  famous  Corn- 
stock  Lead  of  Nevada  is  found,  and  the  situation  of 
the  City  of  Guanajuato  is  not  unlike  that  of  Virginia 
City,  and  Gold  Hill,  the  elevation  being  not  less  than 
five  or  six  thousand  feet,  apparently,  above  the  level  of 
the  sea. 

On  our  road  to  Siloa,  and  when  still  some  miles 
from  the  town,  we  saw  a  party  of  laborers  from  some 
of  the  little  hamlets  which  dot  the  country  around, 


180  A    TOUCHING    AND    CHARACTERISTIC    SCENE. 

carrying  a  sick  and  dying  man  in  a  litter  to  the  town 
that  he  might  receive  spiritual  consolation  in  his  last 
moments.  They  were  all  evidently  of  the  humbler 
class,  but  neatly  and  cleanly  dressed,  and  the  delicate 
care  with  which  they  bore  their  dying  companion  along 
the  rough  and  toilsome  road  was  touching  to  observe. 
The  day  was  very  hot,  and  the  labor  of  carrying  the 
heavy  litter  by  no  means  a  trifling  one ;  but  each  quietly 
took  his  place  and  assisted  to  bear  the  burden  when 
his  turn  came  without  a  word,  and  while  a  part  were 
sustaining  the  load  upon  their  shoulders,  the  others 
fanned  the  sufferer  or  held  water  to  his  parched  and  fe- 
verish lips.  Probably  each  man  in  the  party  had  lost 
a  day's  labor  which  he  was  ill  able  to  spare,  and  con- 
tributed something  from  his  scanty  means  besides, 
towards  defraying  the  expenses  of  making  the  last 
hours  of  their  friend  and  companion  as  comfortable  as 
possible. 

This  kindness  and  consideration  for  the  sick  and  un- 
fortunate is  characteristic  of  the  people  of  Mexico,  and 
notably  so  of  the  humbler  classes.  The  poorest  family 
in  the  land,  will  share  its  last  meal  with  the  sick  or  the 
stranger,  and  when  there  is  not  a  mouthful  of  food  in 
the  house — as  is  too  often  the  case — will  still  give  you 
"  a  cup  of  cold  water  in  the  nam6  of  Jesus,"  and  some 
kind  words  of  regret  and  apology  for  not  being  able 
to  do  more. 

Passing  through  the  dilapidated  old  town  of  Salado, 
or  Siloa  (pronounced  Salow,)  where  we  saw  a  church 
bearing  an  inscription  which  shows  that  it  was  erected 
in  1739,  when  New  York  contained  fifteen  thousand 
people,  we  entered  the  foot-hills  of  the  mountains  of 
Guanajuato. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

GUANAJUATO,  AND  BENEATH  IT. 

LPROM  a  height  three  miles  from  the  City  of  Guana- 
juato, just  as  the  sun  was  sinking  behind  the  moun- 
tains in  the  west,  we  looked  down  on  what  appeared  to 
be  three  separate  towns  situated  in  a  deep  ravine  or 
canon.  The  tall  spires  of  the  Cathedral  of  Guanajuato, 
glowing  like  gold  in  the  red  sunlight,  were  the  con- 
spicuous feature  of  the  main  and  central  city.  Enter- 
ing the  canon,  we  rode  for  two  miles  along  the  narrow 
bed  of  a  tortuous  little  stream,  whose  waters,  having 
done  duty  in  all  the  silver  reduction  or  beneficiating 
haciendas  of  the  district,  were  clogged  and  thick  with 
the  residuum  of  the  pulverized  quartz  which  they  were 
bearing  away  into  the  valley. 

The  town  of  Marfil,  which  is  wholly  supported  by 
the  beneficiating  works  which  constitute  its  sole  indus- 
try, lines  the  banks  of  this  stream  on  either  side,  and 
the  different  haciendas,  each  of  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  wall,  and  capable  of  being  defended  against  at- 
tack by  a  strong  force,  give  it  the  appearance  of  one 
vast  fortress.  The  houses  are  all  hidden  by  the  walls, 
which  come  down  to  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  we 
hardly  saw  a  human  being  in  all  tfris  ride. 

Passing,  at  last,  an  ancient  tower,  of  a  quaint  pat- 
tern, constructed  by  the  Spaniards  for  raising  water, 
looking  like  a  relic  of  the  days  of  the  Crusaders,  we 


182  THE    TRIPLE    CITY. 

arrived  at  the  lower  portion  of  the  city  of  Guanajuato, 
and  found  a  delegation  of  officers  waiting,  with  car. 
riages,  to  escort  Mr.  Seward  to  the  magnificent  new 
house,  completely  furnished  throughout,  which  had 
been  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the  party.  The 
keys  were  handed  to  him  as  soon  as  we  had  entered, 
and  the  committee  then,  considerately,  bid  us  good- 
night, and  left  us  to  dine  and  retire  to  rest. 

Guanajuato  impressed  us  with  an  idea  of  permanence 
and  comparative  prosperity  rather  unusual  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  in  spite  of  its  greatly  reduced  popula- 
tion, its  languishing  industries,  and  its  suburban  mining 
towns  deserted  and  tumbling  into  ruins.  It  has  many 
beautiful  private  residences,  which  cannot  be  excelled  in 
comfort,  extent,  and  elegance,  in  any  part  of  the  United 
States,  and  many  still  wealthy  and  aristocratic  families 
of  pure,  or  nearly  pure,  Castilian  descent.  The  city, 
proper,  runs  along  on  the  steep  hill-sides  on  either  side 
of  a  very  narrow  and  tortuous  ravine  or  canon  over  a 
mile  in  length ;  and  the  streets  are  narrow,  crooked, 
and  very  steep.  There  are  only  two  streets  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  canon  which  admit  of  a  carriage  being  driven 
over  them  at  any  speed,  although  all  of  them  are  most 
beautifully  paved  with  small  cobbles,  generally  in  mo- 
saic. The  houses  on  the  back  streets,  of  course,  rise 
above  each  other  in  successive  terraces,  like  stairs,  and 
each,  in  turn,  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  back-yards  and 
private  portions  of  the  residences  next  below. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  canon,  Sen  or  Koch  a,  one  of 
the  oldest  residents  of  Guanajuato,  a  few  years  since, 
built  three  large  dams  of  solid  masomy,  beautifully 
constructed  and  tastefully  ornamented,  to  collect  the 
waters  of  the  little  stream  which  trickles  down  there 


SEiSOK    ROCIIA    AND    HIS    RESERVOIRS. 


183 


from  the  mountain  side ;  and  from  the  reservoirs  thus 
created,  the  people  of  the  entire  city,  and  mills  below 
are  supplied.  At  the  commencement  of  the  rainy  sea- 
son, in  June,  the  flood-gates  are  openeM,  and  the  pent 
up  waters  which  have  been  accumulating  for  a  year,  are 
allowed  to  flow  out  in  a  rushing  river,  which  surges 
through  the  canon,  and  washes  everything  clean,  be- 
fore it ;  the  reservoirs  are  then  cleansed  and  repaired. 
Here  for  the  first  time  in  Mexico,  we  missed  the  women 
at  the  plaza 

fountain  s ,     /..  ="    ^-==  =^^ ^^^-_;,_      ~    "^ 

and  the 
donke  y- 
driving 
water-carri- 
ers, and 
drew  fresh 
water  from 
the  hy- 
drants. 
S  e  n  o  r  1 


THE  RESERVOIRS  AND  PROMENADE. 


concessi  o  n 
for  the  sup- 
plying of 
the  city 
with  water 
for  twenty 

years,  and  will  be  able  to  repay  himself  for  his  vast 
outlay.  He  has  also  built  terraced  promenades  and 
seats  all  around  the  reservoirs,  and  thus  furnished  Gu- 
anajuato with  one  of  the  great  requisites  of  a  Mexi- 
can city,  a  place  of  social  public  resort  for  its  popula- 


184  EL   BUFFA. 

tion  at  evening  and  morning ;  he  has  fine  natural  taste, 
and  has  made  the  peculiar  architecture  best  fitted  for 
this  country  and  climate,  a  thorough  study ;  and  when- 
ever he  sees  a  man  about  to  build  a  house  of  any  pre- 
tension, he  at  once  offers  to  superintend  its  entire  con- 
struction, free  of  charge. 

Above  the  city,  not  far  from  the  reservoirs,  is  a  pecu- 
liar, high  mountain,  crowned  with  a  curious  perpendicu- 
lar rock,  which,  from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  the  out- 
lines of  a  giant  buffalo,  has  been  christened  "  El  Buffa." 
From  this  mountain  is  procured,  in  unlimited  quantities, 
a  species  of  lined,  and  beautifully  variegated  sandstone, 
of  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow — blue,  pale  green,  and 
chocolate  predominating.  The  sandstone  cuts  readily, 
has  a  fine  grain,  and  is  the  best  material  for  private 
residences  and  public  buildings  imaginable.  With 
this,  and  in  this  way,  Seuor  Rocha  has  lined  the  sides 
of  the  canon  all  the  way  up  to  the  reservoirs,  with  resi- 
dences of  the  most  beautiful  style.  Graceful  pillars  in 
long  colonnades,  arched  portals,  and  corridors  and  patos 
decorated  with  all  the  flowers  of  this  prolific  climate, 
are  seen  by  the  delighted  traveler  on  every  side. 
Surely,  this  fine,  old,  Mexican  gentleman  is  a  public 
benefactor  in  the  largest  sense  of  the  term. 

For  three  centuries,  Guanajuato  furnished  the  world 
with  an  almost  uninterrupted  stream  of  silver,  and  in 
spite  of  wars  and  dissensions,  crude  and  primitive  sys- 
tems of  mining  and  reduction,  oppressive  taxes  and 
general  mismanagement,  her  mines  of  incredible  wealth 
still  pour  out  millions  annually. 

Early  in  the  present  century,  Humboldt  visited  this 
city,  and  described  the  mines  of  the  district  more  fully 
and  scientifically  than  I  am  capable  of  doing ;  his  de- 


THE    SILVER   MINES    OF    GUANAJUATO.  185 

scription  will  still  hold  good  in  the  main,  and  I  refer 
tie  reader  to  it.  I  was  told,  that  the  mine  owners — as 
is  somewhat  customary  in  all  countries  and  all  ages — 
imposed  upon  him  in  many  particulars — and  that  the 
figures  which  he  gave,  are  not  to  be  trusted ;  but  for 
reasons,  which  can  only  be  guessed,  I  find  that  it  is  still 
impossible  to  obtain  any  more  exact  data  concerning 
the  yield  of  particular  mines,  even  at  this  day.  The 
records  are  usually  imperfect  at  best,  and  there  is  a 
natural  desire  not  to  allow  the  public  a  full  insight  into 
the  workings  and  value  of  particular  mines.  If  a  mine 
is  paying  well,  it  is  always  popularly  supposed  that  it 
is  really  paying  much  better  than  reported  ;  and  if  not 
paying  at  all,  it  is  probably  for  sale,  and  the  best  pos- 
sible showing  is  made. 

In  1852,  the  annual  yield  of  the  mines  of  this  dis- 
trict was  estimated  at  nine  million  dollars,  of  which 
one-tenth  was  gold  and  the  remainder  silver.  It  is  now 
only  a  little  more  than  four  million  dollars ;  but  with 
peace,  and  a  judicious  investment  of  capital,  it  could 
be  doubled,  or  even  trebled,  very  speedily.  The  popu- 
lation meantime  has  fallen  off  probably  fifty  per  cent, 
and  the  city  now  contains  only  forty-five  or  fifty  thou- 
sand people  at  the  outside  estimate. 

General  Florencio  Antillon,  Governor  of  Guanajuato, 
to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  many  courtesies,  furnished 
me  with  some  interesting  statistics.  From  them  I 
learned  that  the  present  population  of  the  state  is  seven 
hundred  and  twenty-nine  thousand,  nine  hundred  and 
eighty-eight.  This  is,  in  proportion  to  its  size,  the 
most  densely  populated  state  of  the  Eepulic.  There 
are  six  hundred  prisoners  in  the  state-prison,  at  Sal  a* 
manca,  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  less  than  in  the  Cali- 


186  STATISTICS    OF    THE    STATE. 

fornia  state-prison,  with  a  population  fifty  per  cent, 
greater.  The  state  forces,  under  pay,  consist  of  one 
battalion  of  the  line  of  four  hundred  and  seventy-nine 
men,  and  four  squadrons  of  mounted  gendarmes — in  all 
nine  hundred  and  eighty-eight  men.  These  belong  to 
the  National  Guard,  and  are  always  on  duty  on  the 
road  or  in  the  Municipalities.  There  are  also  four 
hundred  members  of  the  National  Guard  not  on  active 
duty  and  pay,  and  three  hundred  and  ninety-four  more 
doing  duty  at  intervals,  and  liable  to  be  called  out  at  a 
moment's  notice.  The  guard  of  the  Department  of 
Guanajuato,  is  now  being  armed  with  Henry  rifles 
from  the  United  States,  but  the  others  still  have  the 
old  English  Tower,  and  the  Springfield  muskets  of 
1860-63. 

There  are  two  hundred  and  eight  students  in  the  free 
college.  The  free  schools  cost  ninety-four  thousand 
dollars  per  annum,  and  are  well  attended.  They  have 
day  and  evening  schools  connected  with  the  primary 
department  for  boys  and  girls  separately,  and  High 
Schools  intermediate  between  them  and  the  colleges. 
The  old  debt  of  the  state,  January  1st,  1868,  was  fifty- 
eight  thousand  eight  hundred  and  three  dollars  and  ten 
cents.  The  income  of  the  state  in  1868,  from  all  sour- 
ces, was  seven  hundred  and  fifty -nine  thousand  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-two  dollars  and  nineteen  cents,  and 
the  expenses,  seven  hundred  and  forty-eight  thousand 
thirty-six  dollars  and  fifty-five  cents. 

The  condition  of  the  state,  in  spite  of  the  depression 
of  its  leading  interest,  silver  mining,  seems  to  be  com- 
paratively good,  and  its  credit  well  maintained. 

A  substantial,  well  macadamized,  carriage-road  is  now 
being  built  from  Queretaro  to  Leon,  running  entirely 


GOVEENOK    ANT1LLOIST. 


187 


through  the  State  of  Guanajuato,  from  South-east  to 
North-west,  under  the  direction  of  Gilberto  Torres,  a 
native  Mexican  Engineer,  formerly  in  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey,  on  the  California  Coast.  This  road  is  to 
be  216  miles  long,  and  will  cost  the  incredibly  small  sum 
of  $316  per  mile,  including  the  erection  of  several  sub- 
stantial stone  bridges  already  completed. 

Governor  Antillon,  who  is  a  man  of  splendid  personal 
appearance,  tall,  handsome 
and  intelligent,  was  a  com- 
mander in  the  Republican 
army  during  the  war.  His 
reputation  as  an  executive 
officer  is  excellent,  and  the 
State  is  said  to  be  one  of 


the  best  governed  in  Mex- 
ico. He  is  vigorously 
shooting  the  "  road-agents 
or  highwaymen,  and  al- 
ready the  roads  in  all  parts 
of  the  State  are  comparatively  safe  for  travelers,  and 
will  soon  be  quite  so.  If  the  duties  on  the  production 
of  silver  could  be  reduced  fifty  per  cent,  on  what  they 
now  are,  the  quantity  would  very  largely  increase, 
and  the  State  and  Federal  Governments  would  both 
be  largely  benefited  by  it.  The  climate,  generally, 
throughout  the  State  is  about  that  of  Southern  Califor- 
nia, and  as  healthy  as  tie  climate  of  any  part  of  the 
United  States. 

We  visited  the  Mint  of  Guanajuato,  said  to  be  the 
best  in  the  Republic,  and  the  only  one  which  is  worked 
by  steam.  Its  machinery  is  on  the  English  plan,  and 
English  made,  and  the  mint  is  run,  under  contract,  by 


GENERAL 


AA'TILLON. 


188  THE   MINT. 

an  English  company.  The  Treasurer  of  the  mint,  Se- 
Cor  Don  Juan  B.  Castelazo,  an  intelligent  and  highly 
educated  Mexican,  who  speaks  English  well,  showed 
us  through  the  establishment.  From  him  we  learned 
that  the  annual  coinage  of  the  mint  is  $4,000,000,  of 
which  $500,000  is  gold  and  the  remainder  silver.  The 
old  silver  coinage  was  dollars,  half-dollars,  quarters, 
reals,  (12  1-2  cts.)  medios,  (6  1-4  cts.)  and  quartillas, 
(3  1-8  cts.)  and  this  is  the  common  currency  of  the 
country,  though  the  old  copper  or  brass  claquos  and 
quartillas  still  circulate  extensively.  The  Governor 
has  now  prepared  dies  for  a  new  half-dollar  similar  to 
the  American,  and  ten  and  five  cent  pieces  of  our  pat- 
tern. These  coins,  are  already  being  struck  off,  but  are 
not  yet  put  in  circulation.  By  the  courtesy  of  Mr. 
Frederic  Meyer,  I  obtained  the  first  of  these  new  half- 
dollars  coined  at  the  Guanajuato  Mint ;  and  for  Ameri- 
can gold,  I  obtained  a  handful  of  the  smaller  coins  to 
take  home  as  curiosities  to  my  friends.  The  gold  coined 
is  in  onzas  or  sixteen-dollar  pieces,  corresponding  to 
the  Spanish  doubloon.  Gold  dollars  will  be  coined 
hereafter,  and  the  old  silver,  12  1-2  cents,  6  1-4  cents, 
and  31-8  cents  coinage,  wil  Ibe  abandoned.  In  other 
words,  the  American  decimal  system  has  finally  been 
adopted  for  all  the  mints  in  Mexica 

Senor  Castelazo  gave  me  the  following  list  of  the 
taxes  which  silver  producers  in  Mexico  now  pay :  State 
tax,  three  and  one-eighth  per  ct. ;  melting  and  assay  of 
bars,  one-half  of  one  per  ct. ;  coinage  and  Government 
tax,  four  and  three-eighths  per  ct. ;  total  eight  per  cent. 
If  the  coin  is  exported — as  it  generally  is — it  pays  an 
additional  export  duty  of  eight  per  cent,  or  sixteen  per 
cent,  all  told.  This  is  a  reduction  of  at  least  seven  per 


ANCIENT   CASTLE   AND   ITS   HISTORY.  189 

cent,  on  the  old  rates ;  but  farther  reductions  must  be 
made  before  the  silver  interest  can  become  again  thor- 
oughly prosperous. 

One  of  the  greatest  objects  of  interest  in  Guanajuato, 
is  the  ancient  Castillo  del  Grenaditas,  a  square,  two  story, 
stone  structure  of  immense  size,  flat  roof  of  stone  slabs, 
cemented  water-tight,  and  walls  from  five  to  ten  feet  in 
thickness,  built  early  in  the  last  century,  and  originally 
intended  to  be  used  as  a  granary  in  which  to  store  sur- 
plus corn  for  the  public  protection  against  seasons  of 
scarcity.  There  is  a  large  court-yard  in  the  center  of 
the  structure,  surrounded  with  cornices  and  graceful 
pillars. 

When  Hidalgo,  after  his  pronunciamento  with  eleven 
men  at  Dolores  in  the  State  of  Guanajuato,  in  1810,  ar- 
rived here,  the  whole  Indian  and  native-born  Spanish- 
American  population  flocked  to  his  banner.  They  were 
hardly  armed  at  all,  but  were  brave  and  determined. 
The  Spaniards,  two  thousand  strong,  fled  into  this  Cas- 
tle of  Grenaditas,  and  defended  themselves  through  a 
long  siege,  with  obstinate  courage  and  determination. 
The  patriots  sought  in  vain  to  carry  the  place,  as 
the  Spaniards  were  constantly  on  the  watch,  and  gave 
them  no  opportunity  to  approach  the  gates.  At  night, 
the  Spaniards  burned  great  torches,  and  by  their  light, 
shot  all  who  came  within  reach. 

At  last,  an  Indian  placed  a  great  flat  stone  upon  his 
back,  and  thus  shielded  from  the  bullets  which  the 
Spaniards  rained  down  upon  it,  crawled  up  to  the  gates 
and  burned  them  down.  The  stone  which  he  used  as 
armor,  is  still  shown.  The  besiegers  followed  up  their 
advantage,  and,  after  a  part  of  the  garrison  had  perished 
from  suffocation,  carried  the  castle.  It  is  said  that  not 
a  Spaniard  escaped. 


190 


FATE    OF    HIDALGO. 


In  the  following  year,  when  Hidalgo,  defeated  at  the 
Bridge  of  Calderon,  fled  to  Chihuahua,  and  was  betrayed, 


CASTLE  OF  GRENADITA8. 


tried,  and  shot,  his  head  and  those  of  his  three  compan- 
ions, were  brought  here,  and  placed  on  four  hooks  still 
projecting  from  the  four  corners  of  the  building  near 
the  roof;  and  there  they  remained  until  1823,  when  the 
successful  revolutionists  took  them  down,  and  buried 
them,  with  the  honors  due  to  the  memory  of  the  first 
martyrs  of  Mexican  Liberty. 

Visiting  this  Castle,  alone,  I  found  it  occupied  as 
a  Cared  or  municipal  prison,  Police  Judges'  offices, 
etc.,  etc.  The  troops  of  the  State,  all  of  Indian  blood, 
but  fine,  stout,  hardy,  and  well-disciplined  men,  stand 
guard  at  this  prison,  and  among  the  prisoners  were 


STREET    PEDDLERS    AND    THEIR    WARES.  191 

many  white  men,  descendants  of  those  who  suspend- 
ed the  'heads  of  Hidalgo  and  his  companions,  on  the 
hooks.  A  young  man,  who  informed  me  that  he  was 
one  of  the  three  judges  of  the  minor  criminal  court, 
politely  showed  me  through  the  building.  There 
were  about  three  hundred  men  and  boys,  and  thirty, 
six  women  in  the  Co/reel.  They  were  in  apartments 
containing  from  twelve  to  twenty-five  each,  all  opening 
on  the  great  court-yard,  and  light  and  well  ventilated. 
They  were  working  at  boot  and  shoe  making,  hat- 
making,  weaving  serapes  and  coarse  blankets,  making 
tallow  candles,  etc.,  etc.,  or  attending  school.  The 
white  blood  appeared  to  predominate  among  the  pris- 
oners, all  of  whom  looked  cheerful,  clean,  well-fed,  and 
comfortable. 

All  kinds  of  manufactured  goods  are  hawked  about 
the  city  on  men's  shoulders,  and  you  must  be  careful 
how  you  look  at  anything,  or  you  will  be  surrounded 
in  a  moment  with  anxious  sellers.  I  asked  the  price  of 
a  pair  of  blue-steel  spurs  handsomely  inlaid  with  ster. 
ling  silver. 

"Six  dollars,  Sen  or  but  what  will  you  be  pleased  to 
give  ? " 

The  same  spurs,  in  California,  would  bring  at  least 
twenty  dollars,  and  I  have  seen  not  much  finer  ones  sold 
at  fifty  dollars. 

I  looked  at  some  rebosas,  merely  to  ascertain  the 
price,  and  was  offered  good  ones  for  three  dollars,  and 
finer  ones  for  six  dollars.  Eeniarking,  by  way  of  get- 
ting rid  of  the  dealer,  that  they  were  not  fine  enough, 
as  my  family  wore  only  silk — Heaven  forgive  me ! — I 
left,  and  an  hour  later  the  dealer  was  waiting  for  me  at 
the  door  of  our  house,  with  a  dozen  costly  silk  ones  in 


192  HOW    THE    POOR    PEOPLE    LIVE. 

boxes,  for  my  inspection.  I  gave  him  fifty  cents  for  his 
trouble,  not  feeling  able  to  buy,  and  he  went  off  pro 
testing  that  I  was  a  Republican  Prince  and  a  Cabellero 
grande. 

I  wanted  a  pair  of  boots  and  could  find  none  in  the 
shops  to  fit  me.  Seeing  a  boot-peddler  in  the  crowd  I 
called  him  up,  and  looked  at  a  pair  with  short  legs 
faced  with  buff,  and  soles  fancifully  shaped  and  fastened 
with  small  rnetalic  nails ;  they  were  made  at  Leon,  he 
told  me. 

"  Too  small ;  I  wear  number  eight !" 

He  passed  his  hand  carefully  over  my  foot  and  with- 
out another  question  thanked  me,  bowed  low,  and 
hurried  off.  When  I  got  back  to  the  house  and  entered 
my  room,  a  servant  brought  me  a  pair  the  exact  counter- 
part of  those  I  had  looked  at,  except  in  size,  saying  that 
the  owner  was  in  the  ante-room.  I  tried  them  on,  and 
found  them  the  nicest  fit  I  had  ever  seen ;  if  they  had 
been  made  for  me  in  New  York  they  would  not  have 
fitted  me  half  so  well. 

"  How  much  ? "  I  asked  of  the  servant. 

u  Four  dollars  Senor !" 

"Tell  him  I  will  give  him  three  dollars  and  a  half ! " 

He  came  back  in  a  minute: "  Esta  bien,  Senor ! "  He 
would  have  taken  three  dollars^  had  I  offered  it, 
but  they  were  cheap  at  twice  or  three  times  the  money, 
according  to  our  American  ideas.  How  he  found  out 
who  I  was  and  where  to  find  me,  is  a  mystery  I  am  un- 
able to  explain. 

The  scenes  in  the  market-place  or  plaza  of  Guanajuato 
are  beyond  description.  The  poor  people  of  this  great 
mining  district  cannot  afford  to  waste  anything,  and 
they  literally  eat  up  an  entire  animal  "  from  the  tip  of 


HEAVY    STEALINGS.  193 

Ms  nose  to  the  en(J  of  his  tail."  All  the  meat  not  sold 
fresh  is  dried,  and  sold  in  that  shape.  You  see  men 
and  women  squatted  on  the  ground  before  a  pile  of 
sheep  and  goats  heads  and  necks,  dried  with  the  horns 
on,  and  the  hair  or  wool  still  adhering  to  them  in  patches, 
and  notice,  not  without  a  rising  of  the  gorge,  that 
the  poor  customers  crowd  around,  and  after  hag- 
gling for  one  of  them,  purchase  it  for  perhaps  a  cent  or 
two,  and  walk  off,  gnawing  at  it  as  a  dog  would  gnaw  at 
his  bone.  Boiled  pumpkins  or  calobassas  are  also  among 
the  staple  articles  of  food  among  these  poor  people, 
and  the  principal  article  of  their  diet  is  a  kind  of  gruel 
or  soup  made  from  ground  corn ;  and  they  think  them- 
selves vastly  fortunate  if  they  can  add  to  this  a  dried 
goats-head,  sheeps-neck,  or  the  nose  or  tail  of  a  bullock 
on  Sunday.  How  they  can  live  and  work  as  they  do 
on  such  a  diet  Heaven  only  knows. 

As  ,-*  rule  the  people  of  the  lower  order  are  not  dis- 
honest, but  there  are  many  petty  thieves  among  them. 
To  show  how  far  they  will  go  in  the  stealing  line  I  will 
mention  a  single  fact.  In  a  hardware  store  on  the  plaza, 
I  noticed  several  grindstones  fastened  to  the  wall  by 
chains,  passed  through  the  hole  in  the  center,  and  pad- 
locks ;  on  inquiry,  I  learned  that  this  was  done  to  pre- 
vent their  being  stolen  and  earned  off  bodily  by  men 
who  did  not  even  know  the  use  of  them,  but  would 
take  them  in  preference  to  almost  anything  else  on 
which  they  could  lay  their  hands,  because  they  were 
heavier,  and  as  they  supposed,  consequently  more  valu- 
able. 

The  priests  have  given  the  authorities  much  trouble, 
but  appear  now  to   have   become   pretty  thoroughly 
humbled.     This  was  once  one  of  their  strongholds,  and 
13 


194  SEVERE  ON  THE  CLEBGY. 

t 

it  would  hardly  have  been  believed  by  a  visitor  twenty 
years  ago,  that  at  this  time  the  holy  fathers  would  be 
forbidden  by  law  to  walk  the  streets  of  Guanajuato  in 
their  clerical  robes  and  broad  hats ;  but  such  is  the  case. 
About  the  time  we  were  there,  some  of  them,  becoming 
over-confident,  ventured  to  disobey  the  law,  and  appeared 
in  their  black  robes  on  the  streets.  Thereupon,  General 
Antillon  issued  an  order  requiring  the  police  to  arrest 
all  such  offenders,  and  gave  notice  that  they  would  be 
punished  with  a  fine  of  five  hundred  dollars,  and  thirty 
days  in  the  chain-gang,  with  double  the  penalty  for 
each  repetition  of  the  offence.  Next  day  there  was  not 
a  black  gown  or  shovel-hat  to  be  seen  in  the  streets  of 
Guanajuato :  and  this  was  the  city  in  which  the  Church 
condemned  the  Padre  Hidalgo  to  death. 

Education  is  by  no  means  neglected  or  despised  by  the 
people  of  Guanajuato  at  this  time.  While  there,  we  at. 
tended  the  annual  examination  and  distribution  of  prizes 
at  the  State  College.  Governor  Antillon  presided  and 
distributed  the  premiums.  The  College  has  nearly  three 
hundred  students,  and  is,  partly,  self-sustaining.  It  ap- 
pears to  be  well  managed,  and  a  model  institution  in  its 
way.  The  graduating  class,  with  few  exceptions,  were  in 
full  dress  black  suits,  with  white  kid  gloves ;  but  I  no- 
ticed with  not  a  little  pleasure,  that  some  of  the  highest 
prizes  were  carried  off  by  young  men  of  almost  unmixed 
Indian  blood,  in  clean  but  coarse  leather  pantaloons 
and  roundabout  jackets,  who  were,  apparently,  treated 
with  as  much  consideration  by  the  faculty  and  tln-ir 
fellow-students  as  any  one  there.  There  was  an  abun- 
dance of  exceedingly  fine  operatic  music,  some  superi<  >r 
declamations,  and  when  all  the  prizes,  consisting  of  ele- 
gantly bound  books  of  practical  value — not  merely 


THE    BENEFICIATING    HACIENDAS.  195 

parlor  ornaments — and  diplomas  had  been  distributed 
the  hall,  which  was  beautifully  decorated,  was  cleared, 
and  an  array  of  brilliant  loveliness,  such  as  I  have  seldom 
if  ever  seen  elsewhere,  was  soon  mingling  with  the  stu- 
dent-throng in  the  mazy  dances  of  this  land  of  music 
and  of  flowers.  As  we  were  to  leave  for  Celaya  at 
4  o'clock  next  morning,  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to 
leave  the  ball-room  and  return  home  to  get  some  sleep, 
and  so  missed  the  conclusion  of  the  festivities. 

The  reduction  works,  or  beneficiating  haciendas  of 
Guanajuato  and  Marfil   are  worthy  of  especial  atten- 
tion.    One  of   the  best  establishments  of  this  char;  c 
ter  in  the  district,  that  of  Mr.  Parkman — an  American 
long  resident  in  Mexico — was  visited  by  our  party  wh:> 
spent   some   hours  in    inspecting    it.     The    "mill,"    or 
crushing  apparatus,  is  run  partly  by  steam,  and  partly 
by  water  power.     It  is  rude  and  primitive  to  the  last 
degree.     The  stamps  work  on  wooden  shafts,  and  the 
quartz  must  be  constantly  shoveled  under  them  by  hand, 
as  there  is  no   provision  for  self-feeding    as  with  us. 
There  are  twenty-nine  arastras  worked  by  mule-power 
to  reduce   the  crushed  quartz  to  pulp.     All  the  rock  is 
"  dry  crushed,"  and  the  process  is  slow  and  clumsy  in  the 
extreme.     But  the  "  amalgamation,"  as  we  term  it,  or  ' 
"beneficiating,"  as  it  is  termed  here,  is  the  most  interesting 
part  of  the  work.     We  finish  the  whole  operation  in  a 
day,  but  lose  on  an  average  twenty-five  to  forty  per  cent 
of  the  silver.     In  White  Pine,  where  the  ores  are  chlo- 
rides and  oxides,  they  lose  only  four  to  eight  per  cent, 
—or  a  little  less  than  is  lost  here.     The  cost  of  fuel 
is  eight  dollars  per   cord,  and  steam  machinery  could 
be  run — if    it    were  not    for    the    difficulty  of    mak- 
ing repairs — for  less  than  it  costs  in  Washoe,  as  labor 


190  THE    liliEAT    VALENCIANO 

is  cheaper;  Imt  in  Itenef  dating  they  would  probably 
lose  as  much  as  they  saved  on  the  crushing,  if  the 
American  system  of  reduction  and  amalgamation  was 
fully  adopted  here. 

Mr.  Parknian's  tortas  are  an  improvement.  He  has 
seven  of  them,  each  sixty  feet  in  diameter,  and  holding 
one  hundred  and  twelve  tons  of\  pulp.  The  mules- 
only  two  in  number — travel  around  the  outside,  and 
draw  a  shaft  which  works  on  a  pinion  in  the  center,  on 
which  there  is  a  pair  of  heavy  wagon  wheels,  which, 
by  an  adjustable  scale,  are  made  to  run  in  a  smaller  or 
larger  circle,  thus  working  over  all  the  pulp  in  time. 
As  the  pulp  works  outward  toward  the  side  of  the 
torta,  it  is  shoveled  back  towards  the  center,  by  hand, 
and  is  thus  well  mixed.  The  time  required  in  ben- 
eficiating  is  twenty-five  days  in  Mr.  Parkman's  haci- 
enda, and  the  work  is  always  well  done.  The  ore  is  not 
of  a  very  refractory  character,  being  mainly  pure  black 
and  bronze  sulphites,  and  the  patio  process  appears 
to  save  more  of  the  silver  than  any  other.  I  am  told 
that  there  are  occasionally  small  deposits  of  chlorides 
found  here,  but  that  by  the  patio  process  none  of  it  is 
saved. 

The  great  mine  of  San  Jose  de  Valenciano,  which  is 
said  to  have  produced  in  its  day  eight  hundred  million 
dollars,  was  not  visited  by  Mr.  Seward,  but  I  had  the 
good  fortune  to  see  it. 

This  mine  is  situated  on  the  mountain,  high  above 
the  city  on  the  North-east,  and  occupies  a  large  and 
rich  portion  of  the  Veta  Madre  or  "Mother  Vein," 
of  Guanajuato.  It  was  discovered  immediately  after 
the  conquest  by  the  Spaniards,  and  for  many  years  wa> 
a  wonder  of  wonders.  For  forty  years  in  succession  it 


THE   ANGLO-MEXICAN    COMPANY.  197 

was  "  in  bonanza"  paying  enormous  dividends  to  its  own- 
ers ;  and  when  Humboldt  visited  it,  he  estimated  that 
it  then  produced  one-fifth  of  all  the  silver  in  the  world. 
It  passed  after  his  time  into  the  hands  of  the  "  Anglo 
Mexican  Company,"  which  commenced  with  a  capital  of 
five  ^million  pounds  sterling,  (say  $25,000,000  in  Amer- 
ican coin,)  with  a  board  of  directors  sitting  in  London, 
who  sent  out  officers  of  the  army  and  navy  who  had 
never  seen  a  mine  in  their  lives,  to  superintend  its  work- 
ings at  fabulous  salaries,  erected  an  •immense  engine, 
and  run  it  at  constant  disadvantage  and  loss;  and 
finally,  after  sinking  in  this  and  other  mines,  nearly 
their  original  capital,  learned  wisdom  from  experience, 
and  changed  the  programme.  They  employed  a  com- 
petent director,  Mr.  Charles  Furber,  working  some  other 
mines  here  at  a  profit,  and  in  time  their  stock  would 
have  been  once  more  in  demand,  but  a  fearful  trag- 
edy which  I  shall  presently  relate,  put  an  end  to  all 
operations  again,  for  a  time,  at  least. 

Accompanied  by  Messrs.  Anthony  Burgess,  Thomas 
Abrams,  Frederick  Meyer,  Smith,  and  Dr.  Harris, 
all  American  residents,  who  with  Governor  Antillon, 
and  Alfred  Jeanotat  had  been  unceasing  in  their  atten- 
tions to  us,  I  started  out  to  visit  this  famous  mine  at 
day-break,  Thursday,  November  4th.  Mounted  on  the 
beautifully  fleet  and  easy  riding  horses  of  the  coun- 
try— which  have  an  artificial  gait,  trotting  with  the 
hind  legs  and  galloping  with  the  fore  legs  at  the  same 
time — with  revolvers  at  our  waists,  and  swords  hung 
at  the  pommel  of  the  saddle  and  run  through  under  the 
stirrup-strap  so  as  to  be  held  under  the  left  knee  of 
the  rider — when  will  our  American  cavalry  learn  this 
neat  trick  and  dispense  with  the  knocking  and  rattling 


198  A    DESERTED    MIXING    TOWX. 

sabres  hung  at  the  belt  and  always  a  nuisance  ? — we 
started  off,  at  sunrise,  up  the  winding  streets  and  al- 
leys, and  over  the  rugged  hillsides  to  the  mine  and 
town  around  it. 

At  the  crossing  of  a  deep,  dry  arroyo  we  crossed 
over  a  bridge,  which  bore  an  inscription,  "For  more 
than  three  centuries  the  people  of  Guanajuato  crossed 
here  without  a  bridge.  Behold  progress !"  In  another 
part  of  our  journey  we  passed  a  bridge  on  which  there 
was  this  inscription:  "This  bridge  was  built  here,  etc., 
etc. ; "  as  it  is  of  solid  stone,  I  don't  wonder  at  its 
having  been  built  there  instead  of  having  been  built 
somewhere  else,  and  sent  there  ready  made  by  express. 

An  immense  church  with  an  elaborately  carved  and 
sculptured  front,  worn  and  defaced  by  the  storms  and 
convulsions  of  centuries,  but  still  with  unshaken  walls 
of  massive  stone,  stands  in  the  center  of  a  town,  which 
must  once  have  contained  from  ten  to  twenty  thousand 
people,  all  dependent  on  the  working  of  the  great 
Valenciano  mine.  The  church  is  unfrequented,  save 
by  a  few  squalid  and  destitute  devotees;  the  town 
is  in  ruins ;  and  desolation  reigns  sole  mistress  of  the 
scene.  We  galloped  through  the  deserted  streets,  and 
entered  the  gate-way  of  the  enclosure  out  of  which 
have  been  borne,  in  times  past,  enough  mule-loads  of 
treasure  to  sink  the  largest  ship  now  afloat  on  the  seas. 
Little  boys  received  our  horses,  and  walked  them  up 
and  down,  while  we  went  through  the  vast  enclosures, 
where  men  and  animals  by  thousands,  once  toiled  and 
suffered,  but  where  now  the  grass  grows  and  silence 
reigns. 

The  extent  of  these  works  above  ground  cannot  be 
adequately  described.  They  cover  acres  on  acres  of 


IMMENSE    SUBTERRANEAN    WORKS.  199 

ground,  and  cost  millions  of  dollars.  All  around,  you 
see  walls  from  three  to  eight  feet  in  thickness  and  solid 
as  the  rocks  of  the  mountains,  radiating  in  every  direc- 
tion. There  are  many  shafts  sunk  deep  into  the  bow- 
els of  the  earth,  each  with  its  separate  enclosure  and 
outworks,  and  the  chambers  and  drifts  underground, 
now  filled  with  water,  measure  miles  in  extent.  At  the 
main  shaft  the  works  resemble  a  vast  fortress,  and 
are  on  a  scale  of  extent  unprecedented  in  the  history  of 
mining  in  America.  The  mule-yard  surrounded  by  a 
hisrh  wall,  with  manners  of  cut  stone  running  all  around 

o  /  o  o 

it,  must  contain,  at  least,  three  or  four  acres  of  ground, 
and  all  the  other  enclosures  and  out-buildings  are  on 
a  proportionate  scale. 

The  extent  of  the  works  under  ground  cannot  be 
seen  at  this  time,  as  they  are  filled  with  water ;  but  it 
is  afiirmed  by  engineers,  that  the  galleries,  chambers, 
and  drifts,  are  longer  in  the  aggregate  than  all  the  streets 
of  the  city  of  Guanajuato,  and  incredible  as  the  state- 
ment looks,  it  is  probably  correct.  We  went  to  the 
mouth  of  the  "tiro  general'1'1  or  great  perpendicular 
shaft,  out  of  which  so  many  millions  of  tons  of  ore  have 
been  hoisted  in  years  gone  by,  and  laying  down  upon 
our  faces,  looked  into  the  yawning  depths  below.  This 
slui-ffc  is  the  largest  on  the  American  Continent,  and  noth- 
ing in  the  mining  line  to  be  seen  in  the  United  States, 
will  bear  a  comparison  with  it.  It  is  687  varas  deep, 
—say  1939  1-4  feet  of  our  measurement — thirty-six  feet 
wide,  and  eight-sided.  The  walls  of  this  shaft  are  ex- 
actly perpendicular,  and  for  the  protection  of  the  work, 
men  below,  laid  up  in  cement,  as  smooth  as  the  ceiling 
of  an  ordinary  dwelling-house  in  the  United  States. 
The  water  now  comes  up  to  within  125  varas  or  about 
344  feet  of  the  surface  of  the  ground. 


200  TILE    GREAT    PERPENDICULAR    SHAFT. 

We  dropped  stones  into  the  abyss,  and  when  they 
struck  the  water  the  report  and  echoes  which  followed, 
lasted  fifteen  seconds,  and  were  perfectly  deafening. 
We  then  fired  a  pistol  down  the  tiro,  and  the  report 
which  came  back  to  us  was  like  that  of  a  twenty-four 
pounder  cannon,  causing  our  ears  to  ring  for  hours 
thereafter. 

The  enclosure  around  the  great  tiro  is  circular  and  of 
immense  extent.  Radiating  from  the  tiro  to  the  outer 
wall,  like  the  sections  of  an  opened  fan,  are  eight  sub- 
enclosures  corresponding  to  the  eight  sides  of  the  tiro : 
in  each  of  these  enclosures  stood,  formerly,  a  great  up- 
right drum  wheel,  or  winze,  called  a  malacate,  on  which 
were  the  cables  which  hauled  up  and  let  down  the 
buckets  filled  with  water  and  ore,  or  men  and  supplies. 
The  rope  was  always  winding  up  on  one  end  and  down 
on  the  other  end  of  the  malacate  when  it  was  in  motion. 
These  eight  great  malacates  were  all  worked  by  mule 
power  for  centuries,  but  the  English  company  intro- 
duced an  immense  hoisting  engine  to  do  the  work. 
The  engine  was  found  to  require  more  feed  than  the 
mules,  and  so  was  put  out  of  use  and  the  mules  substi- 
tuted again.  There  is  another,  but  smaller  tiro  lower 
down  the  hill.  Humboldt  estimated  that  it  would  re- 
quire a  tunnel  seven  or  eight  miles  in  length  to  drain 
this  immense  mine ;  but  it  seems  to  me  that  a  much 
shorter  one  would  do  the  work  effectually;  and  the 
chance  of  striking  "feeders"  or  "blind  veins"  of  ore 
in  the  course  of  the  work  sufficient  to  pay  the  whole 
or  a  considerable  portion  of  the  cost  of  its  construction, 
would,  apparently,  justify  the  adoption  of  the  plan,  by 
a  company  having  an  adequate  capital.  As  the  mine 
now  stands,  it  is  estimated,  that  it  would  require  two 


A    GAME    PADKE.  201 

million  dollars,  in  coin,  to  put  the  requisite  machinery 
on  the  ground,  drain  the  mine  by  pumping,  and  com- 
mence work.  It  is  generally  believed  that  countless 
millions  of  treasure  yet  remain  in  this  mine,  and  will 
some  day  be  exhausted. 

In  the  chapel  near  the  tiro,  we  saw  the  votive  offer- 
ings and  pictures  presented  by  grateful  miners  in  com- 
memoration of  some  miraculous  escape  from  death. 
One  of  these  was  a  rude  painting  representing  a  miner 
falling  into  the  great  tiro,  and  being  miraculously  caught 
and  stayed  in  mid-air  by  the  Virgin,  as  he  pronounced 
her  name.  If  any  man  will  convince  me  that  a  human 
being  ever  fell  into  that  shaft,  and  escaped  with  a  whole 
bone  in  his  body,  I  will  swallow  all  the  stories  you  may 
tell  me  about  ancient  and  modern  miracles  henceforth, 
without  a  doubt  or  question.  We  saw  a  number 
of  men  sorting  over  and  sifting  a  great  pile  of  waste 
ores,  the  accumulation  of  years,  and  this  was  all 
the  work  going  on  at  this  great  mine  when  we  were 
there.  On  every  wall,  and  over  every  gate- way  was 
the  sign  of  the  cross,  and,  ruin  and  desolation  overshad- 
owed all. 

Near  the  church  we  saw  a  cross,  erected  on  the  spot 
where  a  man  was  waylaid  and  murdered  by  bandits 
only  a  few  months  before.  Near  this,  and  on  the  direct 
road  to  Guanajuato,  a  priest  was  stopped  only  a  short 
time  before  our  visit,  "put  up"  and  "gone  through," 
by  the  bandits  who  took  every  dollar  he  had,  kicked 
him,  and  told  him  to  travel.  After  they  had  let  him 
go  he  felt  in  his  pockets,  and  finding  a  rial  which  they 
had  overlooked,  called  them  back,  and  with  a  grim  hu- 
mor said  to  them,  "  Here  my  poor  friends,  there  is  still 
12  1-2  cents  coming  to  you!"  They  took  the  money, 


^2         FEARFUL  MURDER  BY  PLAGIAROS. 

and  kicked  him  again  for  joking  under  such  serious  cir. 
cunistances. 

I  have  alluded  to  the  new  Superintendent  of  the 
English  Company,  Mr.  John  Furber,  who  was  in  charge 
of  these  works  when  we  were  there.  He  was  a  fine,  in. 
telligent  young  man,  for  whom  w$  all  conceived  a  great 
liking.  A  long  and  useful  life  appeared  to  be  before 
him.  On  Sunday,  the  19th  of  December,  a  month  after 
we  saw  him  he  left  his  brother's  house  at  5  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  accompanied  by  a  servant,  to  return  to 
his  residence  at  Marfil,  distant  about  a  league.  After 
passing  the  Cerro  Trozado,  he  was  attacked  a  little  in 
advance  of  the  junction  of  the  old  and  new  roads  to 
Marfil,  by  four  men  on  horseback,  supposed  to  have 
been  plagiaros,  belonging  to  the  band  of  the  noto- 
rious Juan  Duran.  A  struggle  took  place  in  which  Mr. 
Furber  was  wounded  by  a  pistol-shot  in  the  stomach 
after  which  he  was  carried  off,  along  with  the  servant 
(who  was  blindfolded)  in  the  direction  of  the  hacienda 
of  Burburron,  and,  after  many  turnings  and  windings, 
the  party  crossed  the  high  road  to  Siloa,  (not  many 
miles  from  where  we  saw  the  supposed  robbers  being 
chased  by  the  soldiers,)  and  the  river  Santa  Anna, 
and  entered  on  the  territory  of  the  hacienda  of  Santa 
Teresa.  At  this  place  the  unfortunate  gentleman  was 
hung  up  to  a  tree,  whether  dead  or  alive  will  probably 
never  be  known,  and  the  servant,  after  having  been 
stripped,  was  set  at  liberty  and  returned  to  his  late 
toaster's  residence  with  the  news  of  his  murder. 

The  authorities  at  once  dispatched  a  party  to  bring  in 
the  body,  which  was  found  suspended  to  a  tree  without 
coat  or  waistcoat,  with  a  paper  affixed  to  the  braces,  on 
which  was  written  in  ink,  the  following :  "  This  has 


THE  GENTLEMEN  OF  THE  KOAD.         203 

befallen,  me  because   I   did  not    give  five  thousand 
dollars." 

In  justice  to  the  "  gentleman  of  the  road "  in  Mex- 
ico, I  must  say  that  as  a  rule  they  are  the  most  polite 
people  on  earth,  and  even  in  taking  a  man's  money  and 
•watch,  do  it  with  a  certain  courtesy  and  grace  that 
makes  the  operation  comparatively  easy  to  bear  on  the 
part  of  the  victim.  They  always  apologize  for  the 
act,  regretting  that  necessity  compels  them  to  do  it,  and 
in  parting  with  the  traveler,  devoutly  commend  him 
to  the  protecting  care  of  Divine  Providence.  When 
not  too  sharply  pressed  by  the  Government,  the  differ- 
ent gangs  in  any  one  state  usually  have  a  sort  of  busi- 
ness connection,  and,  if  you  desire  it,  the  leader  of  the 
first  band  into  whose  hands  you  fall  will  very  courte- 
ously, write  out  a  pass  for  you  to  take  along  to  save 
you  from  further  molestation.  I  have  one  of  these 
passes  in  my  possession.  It  was  given  by  the  leader  of 
a  band  in  the  State  of  Guerraro,  to  a  friend  of  mine, 
who  was  "  put  up  "  in  the^  most  approved  manner.  He 
went  through  the  party  in  the  highest  style  of  the  art; 
and  then,  sitting  on  his  horse,  wrote  with  a  pencil  on  a 
slip  of  paper,  on  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  a  pass  as  fol- 
lows : 

"  Dear  Gomez :  This  party  has  been  done  according 
to  our  regulations.  Please  let  them  pass  without  mo- 
lestation. Manuel." 

The  gentleman  who  received  the  pass  then  said : 

"  But,  my  dear  sir,  you  have  not  left  me  a  dollar  to 
buy  meals  on  the  road !" 

The  brigand  replied,  "Pardon  Senor  ?  How  much 
do  you  require  ? " 

"  "Well,  about  five  dollars  will  take  me  to  Acapulco, 
I  think  !"  said  my  friend. 


204  POLITE    AND    GENEROUS    BRIGANDS. 

The  brigand  chieftain,  thereupon,  not  only  gave  him 
back  that  amount  but  added  to  it  a  nice  porte-monnaie 
which  he  had  just  taken,  with  others  of  the  same  sort, 
from  a  German  peddler,  saying  that  he  would  find  it 
useful  to  prevent  his  losing  the  small  change  out  of 
his  pocket  while  sleeping  at  night.  He  then  told  the 
party  that  near  a  certain  barranca  they  would  be 
stopped  by  the  band  who  had  control  of  that  end  of 
the  road,  to  the  leader  of  which  this  pass  was  directed. 
In  due  time  they  met  the  other  band,  presented 
the  pass,  and  not  only  were  allowed  to  proceed  without 
molestation,  but  were  actually  furnished  with  a  fresh 
horse  to  replace  a  lame  one  which  had  given  out  on  the 
road,  no  "  boot "  being  demanded.  It  is  true  that  the 
horse,  probably,  did  not  cost  the  bandits  anything,  and 
they  could  afford  to  be  liberal ;  still,  it  was  an  act  of 
courtesy  on  their  part,  for  which  the  party  felt  duly 
grateful.  I  have  a  prejudice  against  being  robbed  by 
anybody,  but  if  I  must  be  robbed,  let  it  be  by  a  Mex- 
ican robber,  by  all  means. 

The  business  of  kidnaping  or  carrying  off  travelers 
into  the  mountains  and  holding  them  for  ransom,  and 
murdering  them  if  the  amount  demanded  is  not  forth- 
coming, now  so  active  in  Mexico,  is  of  modern  origin 
and  a  foreign  innovation.  A  few  years  since  the  Mexi- 
can Government  paid  a  large  sum  for  the  importation 
of  an  Italian  Colony  of  two  hundred  men,  who  were  to 
introduce  the  culture  of  silk,  and  stimulate  industry  in 
many  branches  new  to  Mexico.  These  two  hundred 
Italians  each  brought  a  hand-organ  with  them,  and  took 
to  the  business  of  grinding  out  "  mooshic  "  on  the  streets, 
at  once.  When  that  lead  was  worked  out  they  took  to 
other  occupations.  Some  of  them  had  formerly  been 


A    FOREIGN   INNOVATION.  205 

in  the  brigand  business  in  their  dear,  native  land ;  and 
finding,  much  to  their  astonishment,  that  the  trick  of 
kidnaping  or  plagiaring  had  not  been  brought  into 
general  practice  in  Mexico,  proceeded  to  introduce  it  in 
all  its  purity  at  once.  They  soon  made  the  roads  of 
Mexico  as  unsafe  as  those  of  any  part  of  Italy ;  and  by  the 
practice  of  frugality  and  economy,  and  strict  attention  to 
business,  were  in  a  little  time  enabled  to  sell  out  their 
"  stock  and  good  will "  to  native  artists,  who  now  carry  on 
the  trade  in  all  its  branches  at  the  old  stands.  The  penal- 
ty for  carrying  on  this  business  is  death  by  shooting,  and 
the  Juarez  Administration,  whenever  it  is  backed  up  with 
a  will  by  the  local  authorities,  execute  it  with  a  relentless 
vigor  which  promises  to  end  the  practice,  or  depopulate 
the  country  in  the  end.  This  is  the  popular  version  of 
the  origin  of  the  practice  of  plagiaring,  but  I  cannot 
vouch  for  its  being  correct  in  all  its  details.  It  is  quite 
certain  however  that  it  is  not  a  native  institution,  and 
it  is  a  fact,  that  all  the  bands  engaged  in  it  have  more 
or  less  of  the  natives  of  Southern  Europe  among  them , 
as  leading  spirits.  Of  the  remnants  of  Maximilian's 
army,  dispersed  widely  through  the  land,  there  are  very 
few  of  any  nationality,  now  engaged  in  an  honest  occu- 
pation. Some  are  plain  robbers  on  the  highway ;  some 
merely  petty  thieves  in  the  cities ;  and  many  stfeplagia- 
ros.  Those  not  in  either  of  the  above  branches  of  trade 
are  quite  likely  to  be  in  sympathy  with,  if  not  actually 
engaged  in  the  various  pronunciamentos.  There  are  a 
few  Turcos,  some  Frenchmen,  and  now  and  then  a  Bel- 
gian or  Austrian,  once  soldiers,  following  some  honest 
trade,  and  unmolested  and  respected  in  the  principal 
cities ;  but  the  bulk  of  the  foreign  mercenaries  brought 
over  by  Maximilian,  were  thieves  and  ex-convicts  in 


20C  THE  MINE  OF  THE  SERRANO. 

their  own  land,  and  it  is  not  surprising  that  they 
fall  back  into  their  old  occupation,  when  set  free  in  a 
new  country.  The  road  from  Manzanillo  to  Mexico,  via 
Colima,  Guadalajara,  Guanajuato  and  Queretaro,  is  but 
little  traveled  by  foreigners  visiting  the  country,  and 
the  few  who  do  go  over  it,  generally  carry  no  valuables 
and  ride  in  the  stage,  trusting  to  luck  to  get  through 
without  being  robbed,  or  in  any  event  losing  but  little 
The  rural  guards  keep  the  road  in  tolerable  safety  for 
the  diligencias,  and  by  law  the  owners  of  property  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  a  point  where  a  robbery  has 
been  committed  are  pecuniarily  responsible  to  the  vic- 
tims for  damages,  though  few  suits  of  recovery  are 
brought,  I  imagine.  On  the  road  from  Acapulco  to  the 
the  city  of  Mexico,  travelers  always  secure  a  guard  of 
six  to  twenty  macheteros  and  usually  pass  through  the 
worst  districts  in  safety. 

On  our  return  to  the  city,  we  passed  within  sight  of 
the  second  great  mine  of  the  district  of  Guanajuato, 
''El  Reyes,"  situated,  like  the  Valenciano,  on  a  hill, 
with  a  large  town  around  it,  but  we  did  not  have  time 
to  visit  it. 

After  dinner  we  went  to  the  Serrano  mine,  which  is 
being  worked  at  a  profit  at  this  time.  This  is  situa- 
ted in  the  hill  below  the  Buffa  at  the  upper  end  of 
the  city.  Five  hundred  men,  women,  and  children  are 
employed  at  this  mine,  getting  out  the  ore,  breaking 
it  up,  and  sorting,  it.  The  men  generally  work  in  small 
gangs  for  a  share  of  the  sales  of  the  ore  they  take  out. 
The  amount  of  silver  mined  weekly  is  about  five 
thousand  dollars,  and  the  expenses  one  thousand  dol- 
lars, leaving  a  net  profit  of  four  thousand  dollars 
The  great  tiro  is  about  950  feet,  in  depth. 


IN    THE    TUNNEL.  207 

A  horizontal  tunnel  penetrates  the  hill  from  a  level 
with  the  hacienda,  cutting  the  tiro  or  perpendicular 
shaft  at  four  hundred  feet  from  the  surface.  This  tun* 
nel  may  be  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  in  length.  A 
railroad  track  runs  through  it,  and  lying  down  in  the 
cars  we  were  carried  in  to  the  edge  of  the  tiro.  This 
tiro  is  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  and  six-sided,  laid  up  in 
cement  like  that  at  the  Valenciano.  The  necessity  for 
this  is  seen  in  the  fact  that  a  rock,  weighing  many 
tons,  was  displaced  from  a  station  near  the  bottom  of 
the  shaft,  a  few  days  previous  to  our  visit,  and  falling 
upon  the  miners  beneath,  killed  and  maimed  a  large 
number  of  them. 

Standing  here,  four  hundred  feet  below  the  surface  of 
the  earth,  and  six  hundred  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the 
shaft,  with  a  patch  of  pale  blue  sky  far  above  us,  and 
inky  darkness  almost  palpable  to  the  touch  around  us 
and  filling  all  the  depths  below,  we  witnessed  the  most 
wonderful  scene  on  which  we  gazed  in  Mexico.  Men 
were  sent  up  to  the  top  of  the  tiro  at  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  told  to  discharge  rockets  down  it.  This 
they  did ;  and  the  hissing  and  explosions  of  the  fiery 
messengers  caused  the  most  deafening  echoes  and  re- 
echoes, while  the  sides  of  the  shaft,  dripping  with  ooze 
and  slime,  were  revealed  with  startling  distinctness  by 
the  momentary  glare. 

But  this  was  nothing  to  what  followed :  balls  of  the 
fibre  of  the  maguey  or  aloe  plant,  three  feet  in  diame- 
ter and  steeped  in  pine  pitch,  or  resin,  were  swung  out 
over  the  mouth  of  the  shaft  and  set  on  fire.  When  the 
first  was  in  full  blaze  it  was  detached  and  allowed  to 
fall  into  the  abyss.  Like  a  great  comet,  with  body  of 
molten  metal  and  long  tail  of  flame,  rushing  on  a  doomed 


08  UNPARALLELED    PYROTECHNIC    DISPLAY. 

planet,  the  monster  projectile  came  down  from  the  dizzy 
height  above  us,  and  passing  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel 
in  which  we  stood,  with  a  roar  more  deafening  than  the 
loudest  thunder,  went  bounding  and  crashing  into  the 
depths  below,  illuminating  e\7erything  for  a  moment 
with  its  blinding,  lurid  glare,  followed  by  a  darkness  and 
silence  more  profound  than  before/  As  soon  as  the  tre- 
mendous echoes  which  were  awakened  by  the  first  had 
died  away,  a  second  was  sent  down,  and  others  fol- 
lowed in  quick  succession. 

Most  of  our  party  were  unable  to  control  their  nerves 
sufficiently  to  enable  them  to  approach  the  edge,  and 
look  up  and  down  the  tiro,  holding  by  ropes  to  prevent 
them  from  becoming  dizzy,  and  falling  headlong  into 
the  depths ;  but  those  who  could  do  so,  beheld  a  scene, 
the  awful  sublimity  and  grandeur  of  which  beggars  all 
the  powers  of  language. 

The  remainder  of  the  party  now  left,  and  I,  in  com- 
pany with  the  superintendent,  clothing  myself  in  a  mi- 
ner's suit  to  keep  off  the  water  and  mud,  descended 
to  the  bottom  of  the  mine,  one  thousand  feet  and 
more  from  the  surface.  We  went  down  ladder  at'tn- 
ladder,  along  gallery  after  gallery,  through  chambers 
like  great  churches  in  size,  and  others  in  which  we 
could  not  stand  erect,  down  steps  cut  in  the  rock  and 
so  slippery,  with  dripping  water  and  soft  clay,  as  to 
compel  us  to  use  an  iron-shod  staff  to  support  ourselves, 
and  through  many  a  winding  turning,  until  we  stood  at 
the  bottom  of  the  tiro,  wet  through  with  perspirationr 
and  trembling  with  exhaustion. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  tiro  is  a  great  pond  of  water, 
the  reservoir  into  which  all  the  drainings  of  the  mine 
are  gathered,  and  the  buckets  on  the  great  cables 


THE    LOWER    DEPTHS.  209 

worked  by  the  Malacates  at  the  surface,  were  constantly 
coming  and  going  between  it  and  the  end  of  the  tunnel, 
six  hundred  feet  above.  These  buckets  will  hold  three  to 
four  hogsheads  of  water,  and  are  made  of  raw-hide  in 
the  form  of  an  ordinary  Mexican  water-jar.  An  iron 
ring  distends  the  mouth  of  the  bucket,  and  when  the 
vessel  descends,  the  wet  hide  flattening  down  allows  the 
water  to  rush  in,  and  as  the  lifting  commences,  it  falls 
back  into  its  original  form,  filled  to  the  brim  with  the 
dirty  fluid.  When  the  bucket  reaches  the  level  of  the 
tunnel,  it  is  hauled  into  the  opening,  and  as  the  cable 
is  slackened  up  it  flattens  down  again,  and  the  water  es- 
caping over  the  rim,  runs  off  down  the  side  of  the  tunnel. 
But  there  are  still  lower  depths.  We  went  down 
nearly  two  hundred  feet  more,  and  at  the  bottom  of  the 
last  level  found  men  at  work  taking  out  ore.  The  drip- 
ping of  the  water  at  this  point  is  very  considerable, 
and  two  plans  are  made  use  of  to  get  rid  of  it.  A  part 
of  the  water  is  carried  up  to  the  reservoir,  in  pig-skins, 
on  the  backs  of  naked  and  sweating  Indians;  and  a 
part — the  larger  part — is  pumped  up  to  that  point  by 
hand.  The  pumps  are  mere  straight  logs,  thirty  feet 
long,  with  a  bore  of  three  inches,  and  a  piston  and 
bucket,  pulled  and  pushed  back  and  forth  by  two  stal- 
wart Indians,  sitting  on  either  side,  working  by  main 
strength  without  even  a  lever  purchase  to  help  them 
along.  There  are  stations  or  reservoirs  at  the  end  of 
each  pump,  and  all  must  be  kept  going  continually 
night  and  day.  The  Indian  pumpers  sit  down  to  their 
work  upon  the  wet  rock,  and  are  as  naked  as  when 
born ;  the  great  heat  and  want  of  ventilation,  at  this 
depth,  rendering  clothing,  if  they  had  it,  a  superfluity. 

They  get  fifty  cents  each  per  day,  and  work  twelve 
14 


210 


SIGHTS    UNDEK    GROUND. 


hours  at  a  shift.  In  all  my  mining  experience,  I  have 
never  seen  such  a  waste  of  power  and  such  thoroughly 
primitive  appliances  for  mining. 

I  went  through  many  of  the  galleries  and  drifts,  and 
examined  the  vein  carefully.  The  main  vein  is  five  to 
twelve  feet  wide,  quite  irregular,  and  runs  in  a  gener- 
ally south-western  and  north-eastern  direction,  dipping 
to  the  south-westward  as  it  descends.  It  carries  metal 
in  a  very  unequal  degree,  in  different  portions,  and 
though  presenting  rich  specimens  and  bunches  of  al- 
most pure  silver  in  spots,  is  not  generally  very  rich. 

In  one 
cham- 
ber I 


a  thou- 
sand 

feet  below  the  surface. 
These  •  poor  creatures  are 
let  down  in  slings  from 
the  surface,  through  the 
tiro,  and  never  go  out 
again  alive.  They  turned 
their  glazing  eyes  upon 
us,  with  evident  pain,  as 
we  passed  with  lighted 

torches,  and  appeared  to  regard  us  with  mournful  in- 
terest, as  in  some  way  connected  with  the  world  above, 


A  HUMAN  TARANTUI^A. 


A   SPEECHLESS    AUCTIONEER.  211 

of  which  they  still  retained  some  dim  recollection,  but 
which  they  were  never  to  look  upon  again.  In  another 
chamber  I  saw  women  and  children  cooking  food  for 
their  husbands  and  parents ;  they  appeared  to  live  here 
altogether,  probably  returning  to  the  light  of  day  only 
at  long  intervals.  Utterly  worn  out,  at  last,  we  climbed 
our  way  back  to  the  tunnel,  emerging  into  daylight 
just  as  the  sun  was  setting,  swallowed  a  liberal  allow- 
ance of  brandy  to  protect  ourselves  against  taking  cold, 
mounted  our  horses  and  galloped  back  to  the  city. 

The  weekly  sale  of  ores  at  the  several  mines  is  called 
the  "  rescata"  One  at  the  Serrano  I  attended.  The  ore 
is  placed  on  the  ground,  each  miner's  work  in  a  separate 
lot,  and  the  buyers  sample  it  before  the  sale.  It  is 
sold  in  the  lump,  by  guess,  not  by  weight,  the  buyer 
taking  his  chances  on  the  amount.  The  auctioneer 
stands  silent,  under  an  umbrella,  while  the  miners  who 
have  a  small  interest  in  the  sales  over  and  above  their 
wages,  volubly  shout  the  praises  of  the  lot  in  turn.  As 
each  lot  is  put  up,  the^  buyers,  singly,  whisper  their  bids 
in  the  ear  of  the  auctioneer,  and  when  all  have  bid,  he 
announces  who  bid  the  highest ;  the  other  bids  are  not 
named.  The  chance  for  collusion  seem  to  me  to  be 
very  great.  Some  lots  brought  as  high  as  five  hundred 
dollars,  and  the  aggregate  sales  exceeded  six  thousand 
five  hundred  dollars,  at  this  rescata.  This  ended  our 
sight-seeing  in  Guanajuato. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

FROM  GUANAJUATO  TQ  QUERETARO. 

~\TTE  left  Guanajuato  at  4  A.  M.,  Monday,  Nov.  8th, 
without  a  guard,  and  proceeded  by  postilions 
running  on  foot,  and  carrying  torches,  drove  at  a  gallop 
down  the  long  arroyo,  between  the  fortress-like  hacien- 
das of  the  suburbs  and  Marfil,  and  out  into  the  open 
country  below  the  mountains.  When  day-break  came 
we  were  crossing  a  broad  "sand-river,"  near  a  little 
town.  Many  women  were  carrying  water  in  jars  upon 
their  shoulders  from  shallow  wells  scooped  out  of  the 
sand  in  the  bed  of  the  stream,  which  is  not  a  stream  at 
all,  save  during  the  floods  of  the  rainy  season. 

We  had  the  choice  of  the  "  Empressa  General  de  Dili- 
gencias  "  teams  at  every  station,  and  as  the  road  was 
excellent  went  along  at  a  glorious  pace.  This  was  the 
best  part  of  Mexico,  which  we  had  yet  seen.  The  plain 
is  broad  and  extremely  fertile,  and  generally  pretty  well 
cultivated.  We  saw  many  fields  of  corn  which  would 
be  called  No.  1,  and  something  over,  in  Illinois,  and 
broad  belts  of  wheat  already  well  up  and  brilliantly 
green.  The  farms  or  ranches  are  of  immense  size,  sepa- 
rated only  by  pillars  of  masonry,  some  fifteen  feet  in 
height,  to  mark  the  boundaries,  and  each  hacienda  or 
head  farm-house  is  a  fortress  in  itself,  surrounded  by  a 
small  village,  occupied  by  the  former  peons,  but  now 
enfranchised  laborers. 


FEUDAL   CASTLES SALAMANCA.  213 

High  walls  with  stout  gates  surround  most  of  these 
great  haciendas,  and  on  the  roofs  of  some  we  noticed 
breastworks  of  adobe,  with  loop-holes  for  musketry, 
carried  up  above  the  battlements.  These  tell  the  story 
of  the  times  of  civil  war  and  brigandage  so  happily 
passing  away  I  trust,  from  Mexico  forever.  One  of  these 
great  haciendas,  if  resolutely  defended  by  its  occupant 
and  his  retainers,  could  only  be  taken  by  means  of  artil- 
lery. The  villages  are  all  surrounded  by  square  lots,  each 
containing  half-an-acre  to  two-and-a-half  acres,  fenced 
with  the  organo  cactus,  and  each  cultivated  by  a  sepa- 
rate family. 

At  12  o'clock  M.,  we  were  in  the  ancient  city  of  Sal- 
amanca, the  penal  capital  of  Guanajuato,  having  mean- 
time passed  through  the  old  market-town  of  Irapu- 
ato,  which  has  some  five  thousand  inhabitants,  and 
two  very  old  churches  with  elaborately  carved  stone 
fronts,  now  in  a  dilapidated  condition.  The  State-Prison 
at  Salamanca  is  located  in  what  was  once  a  convent, 
which  had  a  church  attached,  and  thieves  and  despera- 
does come  to  work  where  nuns  had  droned  away  their 
lives  in  pious  idleness.  The  convicts,  five  hundred  in 
number,  are  engaged  in  various  kinds  of  labor,  as  at  Gua- 
dalajara, and  in  spite  of  the  clamor  raised  by  the  Church 
party  and  press,  about  the  despoiling  of  the  Lord,  and 
desecration  of  the  property  by  substituting  a  penal 
colony  for  a  nunnery,  the  buildings  are  being  improved 
and  extended,  and  it  is  evident  that  the  property  will 
never  again  be  used  as  a  place  of  religious  seclusion. 

The  Government  of  Mexico  seems  to  be  thoroughly 
aware  of  the  necessity  of  maintaining  its  attitude  to- 
wards the  church  in  all  firmness,  and  the  indignant  pro- 
test of  Bishop  or  priest,  and  the  anathemas  of  the 


214         THE  PATRIOT  GENEBAL  DOBLADO. 

Church  herself,  are  treated  with  equal  contempt.  A 
few  days  since,  the  remains  of  the  patriot  General  Dob- 
lado,  were  exhumed  at  Guanajuato,  and  laid  in  state  in 
the  College  building  in  great  pomp,  before  being  taken 
to  Mexico  to  be  interred  in  the  Pantheon,  as  the  Na- 
tion's honored  dead.  He  had  aided  in  carrying  out  the 
orders  for  the  secularization  of  the  real  estate  of  the 
Church,  and  of  course  was  excommunicated.  The 
Church  refused  to  allow  his  remains  to  lie  in  the  Cathe- 
dral or  any  of  the  minor  Church  buildings,  but  the  peo- 
ple attended  the  ceremonies  all  the  same,  and  the  funeral 
cortege,  as  it  moved  through  the  streets  on  its  way  to 
Mexico,  presented  a  spectacle  impressive  and  suggestive 
to  the  last  degree. 

There  was  not  much  else  to  see  in  Salamanca,  and  we 
drove  on  towards  Celaya,  through  a  valley  at  least 
twenty  miles  broad,  and  almost  an  unbroken  corn-field. 
In  one  field  we  counted  thirty-four  ploughs  drawn  by 
oxen,  at  work  at  once,  and  in  another,  quite  as  many. 
We  saw  many  orange-orchards  around  the  little  villa- 
ges, and  at  one  hacienda  a  very  extensive  olive  planta- 
tion in  full  bearing.  The  soil  is  in  many  places  six  to 
ten  feet  in  depth,  clear  black  loam  like  that  of  the  prai- 
ries, and  exceedingly  rich. 

It  is  singular  how  little  wild  game  'you  see  here.  Af- 
ter leaving  Santa  Anna  Acatlan,  near  Seyula  for  the 
south-west  of  Guadalajara,  we  saw  nothing  in  that  line 
save  a  few  sand-hill  cranes,  pied  cranes,  and  two  species 
of  doves — the  common  "  mourning  dove "  or  "  turtle 
dove  "  of  the  West,  and  a  little  fellow  with  mottled  sil- 
ver-gray plumage,  and  pink  and  yellow  under  the  wings 
like  a  "yellow-hammer" — a  very  pretty  creature.  It 
is  true  that  the  inhabitants  can  occasionally  indulge  in 


CELAYA INTERESTING    RELICS.  215 

a  snap-shot  or  two  at  a  brigand  band,  but  this  must 
be  a  poor  substitute,  after  all,  for  the  manly  sports  of 
the  field,  such  as  we  enjoy  in  most  parts  of  the-  United 
States. 

We  reached  Celaya  soon  after  noon.  This  city  con- 
tains at  this  time  not  more  than  nineteen  thousand  in- 
habitants, and,  yet,  has  twelve  churches,  four  of  which 
are  immense.  We  visited  several,  of  these,  in  succes- 
sion, and  found  them  much  alike ;  and  all  built  of  solid 
stone  and  in  magnificent  proportions. 

In  one  of  them  I  saw  a  case  containing  three  hun- 
dred and  sixty-five  relics  of  Saints  and  Martyrs,  pieces 
of  the  true  Cross,  the  Manger  in  which  Christ  was  born, 
the  column  at  which  he  was  scourged,  the  Holy  Sepul- 
chre, etc.,  etc.,  if  there  has  been  no  mistake  in  the  record, 
and  I  have  no  reason  to  suppose  that  there  has  been 
any. 

While  coming  out  from  one  of  the  churches  we 
heard  a  steam- whistle  sound,  for  the  first  time  in  Mex- 
ico, and  went  to  a  large  woolen-factory  from  which  the 
whistle  was  calling  to  the  workmen.  This  establish- 
ment employs  six  hundred  men  and  women  and  young 
boys,  and  supports  half  the  town.  The  wool  used  is 
all  of  the  coarse,  common  article,  costing  twelve  cents-, 
per  pound,  raised  in  the  country,  and  all  the  dye- 
woods  come  from  the  vicinity  of  Guadalajara.  The* 
master-dyer  gets  seventy  dollars  per  week,  and  the  com- 
mon hands  from  two  dollars  for  the  boys,  to  three  and- 
four  dollars  for  the  women  and  men.  Most  of  the  em- 
ployes are  men,  and  among  them  are  thirty  officers  of 
the  Imperial  Army  of  the  late  General  Mejia,  who  ap- 
pear to  find  wool  en- spinning  and  weaving  a  better  pay 
ing  business  than  fighting,  in  the  nineteenth  century,  in. 


216  THE    ARTESIAN    WELL    AT   CELAYA. 

the  vain  effort  to  found  new  empires  when  old  ones  are 
crumbling  and  tottering  to  their  fall.  During  the  war 
in  the  United  States  the  factory  made  immense  profits ;. 
cargo  after  cargo  of  coarse  woolen  goods  being  smug- 
gled into  the  Southern  Confederacy  and  sold.  Only 
one  cargo  worth  sixty  thousand  dollars,  was  seized 
and  confiscated,  and  the  owner  x;ould  well  afford  the 
loss.  The  goods  made  are  common  serapes,  worth  two 
to  five  dollars  each,  blankets,  and  stout,  striped  cassi- 
meres  of  all  colors,  of  which  last,  a  pattern  for  a  pair 
of  pantaloons  is  sold  at  two  or  three  dollars.  The  ma- 
chinery is  from  the  United  States.  The  building  and 
machinery  cost  four  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and  the 
business  employs  an  active  capital  of  five  hundred  thou- 
sand more,  and  is  very  profitable.  The  principal  owner, 
Seiior  Carosse,  is  a  native  of  the  Basque  Provinces,  and 
one  of  the  richest  men  in  Mexico.  He  came  here  with- 
out a  dollar  thirty  years  ago,  and  now  counts  his  wealth 
by  thousands. 

The  City  of  Celaya  is  now  supplied  with  pure  water, 
of  blood  heat,  from  an  artesian  well  four  hundred  feet 
in  depth,  sunk  at  his  own  expense  by  Col.  Saria.  This 
well  throws  out  ten  jets,  of  one  inch  each,  and  the  wa- 
ter is  free  to  all.  I  can  testify  that  a  bath  in  it  is 
among  the  luxuries  of  the  world.  .  For  his  liberality 
and  public  spirit  in  this  matter,  Col.  Saria  was  thanked 
by  a  resolution  of  the  State  Congress  of  Guanajuato, 
signed  by  every  member.  Opposite  the  enclosure  in 
which  this  magnificent  well  is  situated,  in  the  center  of 
a  handsome  plaza  with  orange  trees  in  full  bearing  and 
a  thousand  beautiful  flowers,  is  a  large  fountain,  and  a 
tall  and  exceedingly  graceful  column,  surmounted  with 
the  arms  of  Mexico,  boldly  sculptured  and  painted  in 


A  CHANCE  FOR  RAILROAD  BUILDERS.       217 

the  proper  colors.  This  was  erected  in  the  year  1822, 
in  commemoration  of  Mexican  Independence. 

Twenty-four  miles  from  Celaya,  is  a  town  called 
Salvatierra,  which  is  said  to  be  the  most  prosper- 
ous one  in  Mexico.  There  is  unlimited  water-power  in 
that  place.  In  the  district  of  Guanajuato,  within  a  cir- 
cuit of  fifteen  miles,  there  is  estimated  to  be,  at  this 
time,  forty  million  dollars  worth  of  silver  ore,  which 
will  yield  twenty-five  dollars  to  the  ton ;  but  owing  to 
the  expense  of  reducing  it  there,  it  will  not  pay  for 
working  at  all,  and  is  now  lying  valueless  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground. 

A  railroad  of  about  one  hundred  miles,  through  a 
wonderfully  rich  valley,  offering  no  engineering  obsta- 
cles of  any  moment,  would  connect  the  two  cities,  and 
enable  the  builder  to  bag  $20,000,000  in  profits  on  this 
ore  already  out ;  to  say  nothing  of  the  future.  With 
water  power  unlimited,  and  American  stamp-mills, 
enormous  profits  could  be  made  by  working  this  ore. 
The  Jaurez  Administration  will  grant  no  more  fran- 
chises, for  railroads  to  be  hawked  about  by  speculators ; 
but  if  anybody  in  the  United  States,  or  Europe,  desires 
to  build  a  railroad  in  good  faith,  here  is  a  chance  to  do 
it,  and  win  fame  and  fortune.  The  people  are  ex- 
tremely anxious  to  have  some  one  take  hold  of  the 
enterprise. 

We  left  Celaya  early  on  the  10th  of  December,  and 
drove  at  a  rattling  pace,  over  a  road  which  was  then 
being  re-turnpiked  and  placed  in  perfect  repair,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  twelve  leagues,  or  thirty  English  miles, 
to  Queretaro.  Our  road  took  us  through  a  broad  and 
beautiful  valley,  filled  with  little  towns — nobody  thinks 
of  living  alone  in  this  country,  but  all  the  people  crowd 


SAD    CONDITION    OF   THE   LABORING    CLASSES. 

into  towns  for  self-protection — and  covered  with  ripe 
corn  and  green  wheat-fields. 

One  of  these  haciendas  which  we  passed  was  beauti- 
ful, indeed.  The  rancho  contains  some  fifty  thousand 
acres.  It  is  in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation,  and  is 
valued  by  its  owner,  Justo  L.  Carresse,  at  $300,000  in 
gold.  His  wheat  crop  from  this  rancho,  and  a  smaller 
one  which  we  passed,  is  worth  annually,  fifty  thousand 
dollars,  and  he  also  produces  twenty  thousand  sacks  of 
Indian  corn  of  fine  quality. 

The  laborers  get  only  twenty-five  or  thirty-seven  and 
a  half  cents  per  day,  own  no  land,  have  no  vested  inter- 
est anywhere,  and  are  half-clad  in  ragged  cotton  goods, 
and  eat  calabossas  and  tortillas  and  frijoles  the  year 
round.  Were  they  born  to  be  merely  hewers  of  wood 
and  drawers  of  water  to  the  end  of  time  ?  Is  that  all 
which  is  in  store  for  them  ?  What  Spanish  despotism, 
peon  slavery,  and  religious  superstition  begun,,  poverty 
and  civil  war  have  perpetuated ;  and  they  are  still  but 
little  advanced  beyond  the  old  state  of  slavery.  They 
stand,  hat  in  hand,  in  the  blazing  sun,  so  long  as  you 
are  addressing  them,  and  appear,  on  all  occasions,  to  be 
thoroughly  respectful,  orderly,  patient,  and  good  dispo- 
sitioned,  though  their  poverty  is  something  painful  to 
behold.  There  is  money  enough  sunk  in  the  twelve 
great  churches  of  Celaya — three  would  hold  all  the 
population — to  build  railroads  through  all  this  great 
valley,  and  decent  houses  for  eveiy  family,  and  clothe 
and  educate  every  child  in  the  State ;  and  these  poor, 
patient,  people  and  their  ancestors  paid  it  all. 

Some  day,  not  far  distant,  will,  I  hope,  see  these  peo- 
ple becoming  small  land-owners,  and  fully  informed  of 
the  rights  with  which  the  Republic  has  invested  them ; 


GBEAT  NEED  OF  A  CONTINENTAL  EAILEOAD.    219 

and  it  will  be  well,  for  all,  if  they  acquire  the  know- 
ledge gradually,  instead  of  being  taught  it,  and  errors 
with  it,  suddenly,  by  some  loud-mouthed  demagogue, 
who  may  incite  them  into  inaugurating  a  new  reign  of 
disorder  and  terror. 

In  justice  to  the  Republic  and  State  authorities,  I 
must  say,  that  they  do  all  in  their  power  to  educate  the 
youth,  and  ameliorate  the  condition  of  the  people ;  but 
while  the  million  poor  are  so  very,  very  poor,  and  the 
few  rich  are  so  very,  very  rich ;  commerce  depressed, 
public  improvements  few,  and  the  Government  impov- 
erished by  foreign  and  domestic  war,  and  its  long  strug- 
gle with  the  church,  progress  is  necessarily  very  slow 
indeed :  nevertheless  there  is  progress.  A  better  time 
will  come ;  but  will  it  be  in  our  day  and  generation  ? 

We  met  and  passed  many  country  people,  going  to 
market,  with  great  wicker  baskets  of  camotes,  fruit, 
sweet-potatoes,  etc.,  etc.,  on  their  backs,  and  many  of 
them  were  braiding  palm-leaf  hats  as  they  trotted  rap- 
idly along,  bending  beneath  their  heavy  burdens,  in  the 
full  blaze  of  the  tropical  sun.  It  is  useless  to  say  that 
these  people  are  idle  and  dissolute  from  nature,  and 
will  not  work.  They  will  work  all  the  year  round 
if  the  work  is  offered  them,  and  fairly  kiss  the  hand 
that  gives  it  to  them.  A  railroad  across  the  Continent, 
by  the  route  we  followed  from  Manzanillo,  would  put 
an  end,  forever,  to  revolutions  and  civil  wars — I  think 
the  end  is  almost  reached  already — enrich  the  whole 
country  and  the  road-owners  at  the  same  time,  and  con- 
fer on  humanity  a  boon,  greater  than  all  the  bequests 
of  the  philanthropic  Peabody. 

Some  fifteen  miles  from  Celaya,  we  entered  the  State 
of  Querataro,  the  towers  of  that  historic  city  looming 


220  APPROACH    TO    QUEIIETARO ALL    QUIET. 

up  grandly  in  the  distance  across  the  plain.  Our  road 
led  through  a  wide  avenue  lined  with  immense  pepper 
trees  in  full  green  foliage,  contrasting  vividly  with  the 
brilliant  red  berries  which  loaded  down  every  bough. 
All  was  quiet  and  peaceful  as  a  New  England  Sab- 
bath in  the  olden  time.  But  three  years  since,  this  same 
tree-embowered  road  presented N  a  far  different  scene. 
The  usurping  "  Emperor  "  and  his  foreign  mercenaries 
and  domestic  traitors,  brought  to  bay,  at  last,  and  ren- 
dered desperate  by  the  hopelessness  of  their  position 
were  making  a  sortie,  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  their 
way  out  towards  Morelia  and  the  Pacific  Coast,  when 
they  saw,  streaming  down  through  the  wide  avenue,  the 
victorious  "  Army  of  the  West,"  under  Ramon  Corona, 
from  Sinaloa,  who,  with  wild  yells  rushed  directly  into 
the  thickest  of  the  fight,  and  closed  the  last  avenue  of 
escape  to  them  forever. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

QUEKETAKO. 

"TTTE  liad  been  told  that  we  should  find  a  revolution 
*  *  in  full  blast  at  Querataro,  and  everything  in  con- 
fusion. Instead,  we  found  every  thing  going  on  in  clock 
work  order,  peace,  apparent  contentment,  and  compara- 
tive prosperity.  The  Governor,  it  is  true,  having  quar- 
reled with  the  Legislature  or  State  Congress,  had  been 
impeached,  and  was  then  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  await- 
ing trial  before  Congress ;  but  the  Gefe  Politico,  Senor 
Angel  Duenas,  and  other  officers,  were  conducting  busi- 
ness with  regularity  in  his  absence. 

We  found  the  City  and  State  officials,  ready  with  car- 
riages at  the  gates  to  receive  the  party.  The  city  con- 
tains forty  thousand  people,  and  though  far  less  impor- 
tant, commercially,  than  it  once  was,  is  still  reckoned  a 
wealthy  one.  It  has  schools,  churches,  and  historic  lo- 
calities enough  to  occupy  one's  attention  for  a  week  ; 
but  as  we  had  only  a  day  and  a  half  to  devote  to  it,  we 
decided  to  spend  the  first  half-day  in  visiting  the  great 
factory  which,  in  fact,  supports  the  town ;  then  devote  all 
the  following  day  to  the  scenes  of  interest  connected 
with  the  siege,  and  the  capture  and  death  of  Maxi- 
milian. 

We  rode  at  once  out  of  the  City  to  the  north-west, 
past  a  long  aqueduct  carried  across  the  valley  on  high 
stone  arches,  the  whole  work  having  cost  a  million  dol- 


222  HOW    THE   AQUEDUCT   WAS    BUILT. 

lars.  It  was  the  work  of  a  rich  Mexican  who  offered, 
by  way  of  a  banter,  to  do  it  free  of  cost  to  Queretaro, 
if  a  friend  of  like  wealth  would  build  a  saint  and  shrine 
of  solid  silver.  The  bantering  offer  was  accepted,  and 
both  parties  carried  out  their  agreement.  The  city  is 
still  supplied  with  water  through  this  aqueduct. 

The  first  factory  which  we  saw  was  the  small  one 
known  as  La  Purisiana  Conception — i.  e.  The  Immacu- 
late Conception — which  is  run  by  water,  and  employs 
only  three  hundred  operatives.  It  is  owned  by  Senor 
Don  Cuyatano  Rubio,  an  aged,  and  very  wealthy  and 
enterprising  Mexican,  whose  sons  carry  on  all  his  im- 
mense business.  It  stands  in  a  beautifully  arranged  en- 
closure, with  high  walls,  fountains,  orange-trees,  and 
flowers  around  it,  and  is  guarded  all  the  time  by  watch- 
men in  full  military  uniform,  armed  and  drilled  in  the. 
best  modern  style.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  the  fine 
machinery  is  of  the  most  improved  pattern.  Only 
manta  or  common  cotton-cloth,  such  as  is  used  by  the 
poorest  class  and  the  common  people,  is  made  at  this 
factory. 

We  passed  on  to  the  next  and  largest  factory,  not 
only  ifl  Queretaro,  but  in  Mexico.  This  is  situated 
just  outside  the  city  limits,  and  is  known  as  the  "  Her- 
cules." This  is  one  of  the  largest  establishments  of 
the  kind  in  America,  and  is  a  model  in  its  way.  It  was 
founded  twenty-five  years  ago  by  Senor  Rubio,  who 
then  employed  fifty  workmen.  Since  then  he  has  added 
to  the  capacity  of  the  works  until  he  has  now  the  lar- 
gest establishment  in  Mexico,  and  his  income  from  it  is 
immense.  The  buildings,  mostly  of  but  one  story, 
cover  a  large  extent  of  ground,  and  are  enclosed 
by  a  high  wall  and  guarded  by  watch-men  in  uniform, 


THE  HERCULES  COTTON  FACTORY         223 

armed  and  drilled  as  soldiers.  The  motive  power  is 
furnished  by  two  double  oscillating  engines  of  English 
manufacture  and  one  hundred  horse-power  each,  and 
the  largest  over-shot  water-wheel  in  the  world,  sixty-five 
feet  in  diameter,  and  of  iron,  wholly.  The  factory  em- 
ploys at  present  eighteen  hundred  men,  women  and 
boys,  directly,  and  has  eighteen  thousand  spindles  in 
operation.  The  buildings  are  erected,  already,  for 
five  thousand  spindles  more,  and  the  number  of  opera- 
tives will  be  increased  to  three  thousand.  This  mill 
produces  six  thousand  pieces  of  common  cotton  goods, 
each  thirty-two  varas — say  thirty  yards  English — in 
length,  weekly.  The  women  and  men  who  do  the 
weaving,  receive  thirty-one  and  one-fourth  cents  per 
piece,  or  about  one  cent  per  yard  for  their  work,  and  are 
paid  weekly.  They  earn  two  and  one-half  to  five  dol- 
lars per  week,  and  are  furnished  with  comfortable  quar- 
ters near  the  factory  at  a  nominal  rental.  But  they 
work  from  6  A.  M.  to  9  1-2  p.  M.,  with  only  an  intermis- 
sion of  half  an  hour,  for  breakfast,  and  an  hour  for  din- 
ner. Among  the  employes  are  many  small  boys  from 
seven  to  ten  years  of  age. 

The  Government  provides  a  day-school  on  Sunday 
for  these  poor,  little  unfortunates  ;  but  what  can  they 
be  expected  to  learn,  when  they  have  worked  fifteen 
hours  out  of  the  twenty-four  during  the  entire  week, 
and  can  only  have,  at  best,  one  brief  day  of  liberty  and 
enjoyment  of  the  sunlight  in  seven  ?  The  buildings  are 
all  well-lighted  and  ventilated,  and  were  as  well-cal- 
culated for  the  purpose  as  any  I  have  ever  seen,  and  the 
office  and  residence  of  the  superintendent  are  on  a  scale 
of  extent  and  magnificence  to  be  found  in  no  similar 
establishment,  elsewhere.  The  factory  was  working 


224 


THE   PKOCESSION    OF   THE   HOST. 


at    the    time,  on  orders    largely  in  advance,  and  lit- 
erally "coining  money."     The  universal  testimony  of 
the  employers  in  all  these  factories,  is  that  the  work- 
men and   work-women  are  patient,   laborious,  and  re- 
liable; and  that  no  better  class  of  operatives  could  be 
procured  in  the  world.     A  beautiful  statue  of  Hercu- 
les and  the  lions,  the  latter  spouting  water,  stands  in 
the  center  of  the  court-yard,  and  the  entire  surround- 
ings of  the  place  give  evidence  of  a  cultivated  taste, 
and  unbounded  wealth  on  the  part  of  the  proprietor. 
Queretaro  was  once  famous  for  the  bigotry  and  fanat- 
icism of  its  people.     The  appearance  of  the  procession 
carrying  the  Host,  on  the  public  streets,  was  the  signal 
for  everybody  in  sight  falling  on    his     knees  at  once ; 
and  if  any  heretic  dared  to  remain  standing,  or  with  his 
hat  on,  he  was  sure  to  receive  violent  handling   even  if 
he  escaped  with  his  life. 

A  few  years  since,  an  Englishman  who  was  employed 
at  one  of  the  mills,  chanced  to  be  on  the  streets  when 
the  procession  with  the  Host  hove  in  sight.  Not  be- 
ing posted  on  the  customs  of  the  country  he  remained 
standing  until  he  was  knocked  down  and  nearly  killed. 
Some  time  after,  he  heard  a  small  bell  ringing  on  the 
streets,  and  as  this  was  the  signal  for  the  appearance  of 
the  Host,  supposed  it  was  time  to  kneel.  Down  he 
went  on  his  knees  and  remained  there  with  his  face 
buried  deep  in  his  sombrero  until  somebody  came  along, 
and  recognizing  him,  demanded  an  explanation  of  his 
conduct.  It  turned  out  that  the  bell  which  he  had  sup- 
posed headed  the  procession  of  the  Host,  was  being 
rung  by  the  official  dustman,  as  a  warning  to  the  inhab. 
itants  to  have  their  refuse  dust  and  garbage  ready  for 
him  to  remove. 


THAT    SAME    OLD    MULE   STOEY.  225 

He  was  of  course  quickly  on  his  feet  upon  making 
this  discovery,  but  the  joke  on  him  was  too  good  to  be 
kept,  and  he  was  almost  driven  out  of  the  country  by 
the  wags,  who  never  tired  of  going  after  him,  on  the 
subject.  The  carrying  of  the  Host  through  the  streets 
of  Mexican  towns  is  no  longer  permitted,  and  the  mis- 
take is  not  likely  to  be  ever  repeated. 

I  believe  all  countries  and  all  languages  have  the 
same  stories,  only  slightly  varied  to  suit  the  locality. 
A  man  told  me  in  Queretaro,  with  all  possible  gravity, 
that  a  few  years  since,  an  American  bought  a  rancho  in 
the  vicinity  of  that  city,  and  took  a  large  drove  of  mules 
to  pasture  for  a  year,  for  one-half  of  the  increase  As 
the  mules  did  not  breed  as  rapidly  as  he  had  anticipated, 
he  lost  money,  and  finally  bursted  up  in  business.  This 
story  has  been  told  me  in  every  country  I  have  ever 
visited,  at  the  expense  of  the  next  door  neighbors,  and 
I  am  half  satisfied  that,  spite  of  the  Mosaic  account  of 
the  affair,  the  real  cause  or  origin  of  the  difficulty 
between  Cain  and  Abel  was  the  telling  of  this  very 
anecdote  by  the  Former  to  the  latter.  Abel  replied, 
"  that  is  an  old  story,  you  had  better  start  something 
fresh  !  "  and  the  brutal  row  began. 

On  the  evening  of  our  arrival  a  number  of  gentlemen 
assembled  at  the  parlor  of  the  house  occupied  by  Mr. 
Seward  and  party,  and  Senor  Angel  Duenas,  Political 
Chief,  made  an  address,  to  which  Mr.  Seward  replied 
briefly ;  and  on  his  leaving,  presented  him  with  a  letter 
of  thanks  for  the  address  and  the  efforts  made  by  the 
people  of  Queretaro  and  the  authorities,  to  make  his 
stay  in  the  state  and  city,  a  pleasant  one. 

Senor  Manuel  Gomez  then  advanced  and  pronounced 
a  "  felicitation  ",  to  which  Mr.  Seward  replied  in  writing 
as  follows: 

15 


226  WELCOME    TO    MR.    SEWARD. 

"  SENOR  GOMEZ  :  I  pray  you,  my  dear  sir,  to  accept  in  this  form 
my  grateful  acknowledgment  for  the  generous  words  of  wel- 
come, which  on  my  arrival  at  this  place  you  addressed  to  me, 
on  behalf  of  the  officers  and  agents  of  the  Federal  Government 
residing  in  the  city  of  Queretaro.  Republicanism  on  this  conti- 
nent, my  dear  sir,  is  not  the  cause  of  the  United  States  of  America, 
or  of  the  United  States  of  Mexico,  only,  but  it  is  the  common 
cause  of  both  countries,  and,  as  I  believe,  of  all  the  nations  which 
now  exist  on  the  American  Continent.  It  will  be  a  happy  conse- 
quence of  my  present  travel  in  Mexico,  if  it  shall  enable  me,  in 
any  degree,  to  cultivate  and  mature  this  sentiment,  either  in 
your  interesting  country,  or  in  my  own". 

The  legislature  of  the  state  of  Queretaro,  presented 
by  one  of  its  members,  an  address  of  welcome,  of  which 
the  following  is  a  translation : 

The  Legislature  of  the  State  has  the  honor  to  felicitate  Mr. 
W.  H.  Seward,  giving  him  the  welcome.  It  is  the  true  inter- 
preter of  the  people  of  Queretaro  with  regard  to  the  expressions 
of  its  gratitude.  Meanwhile,  history  does  not  efface  off  its  pages 
the  unjustified  invasion  of  France  in  Mexico ;  likewise,  will  not  be 
effaced  the  important  services  which  Mexico  received  of  the 
Hon.  Minister  of  America,  in  1866. 

Queretaro,  Nov.  llth  1869. 

(Signed,)  B.  GANDABILLA, 

President. 

In  reply  Mr.  Seward  wrote  a  letter,  concluding : 

"  The  Legislature  will  scarcely  need  to  be  assured  that  I  ap- 
preciate the  legendary  and  historical  character  of  the  state  of 
Queretaro.  While  its  capital  will  be  forever  celebrated,  as  the 
scene  of  the  earliest  and  most  pious  labors  of  the  humble  founders 
of  Christianity  in  Mexico,  it  will  be  even  more  distinguished,  as 
the  scene  of  those  mighty  events,  which  concluded  the  last 
and  most  desperate  attempt  of  all,  to  establish  European  monar- 
chial  domination  on  the  American  Continent.  Peace,  harmony? 
and  sympathy  among  the  several  American  Nations,  is  now  the 


"  THE   EMPIEE    OF   MEXICO."  227 

common  interest  of  all  of  them,  and  it  is  soon  to  be  perceived 
that  it  is  equally  the  interest  of  all  mankind.  "With  most  pro- 
found respect,  etc." 

A  similar  reply  was  addressed  by  Mr.  Seward,  to  a 
letter  of  welcome  from  Governor  Varquez,  which  closed 
the  felicitations. 

We  spent  all  one  day  riding  around  Queretaro,  visit- 
ing the  scenes  of  the  last  act  in  the  bloody  farce  of 
the  "  Empire  of  Mexico,"  and  hearing  the  story  from 
the  lips  of  men  who  witnessed  it  all,  and  participated 
in  it,  or  were  familiar  with  all  the  details. 

It  is  the  common  belief  in  the  United  States  and 
Europe,  that  the  execution  of  Maximilian  and  his  asso- 
ciates, Miramon  and  Mejia,  was  in  defiance  of  the  will 
of  the  majority  of  the  people  of  Mexico,  and  that  Max- 
imilian's memory  is  greatly  revered  by  all  classes  of 
society.  Certain  newspaper  correspondents,  whose  mo- 
tives may  well  be  questioned,  have  represented  that 
every  relic  and  trace  of  him,  is  regarded  with  supersti- 
tious reverence  by  the  people  of  Mexico ;  and  that  the 
men  who  sent  him  to  his  death,  are  everywhere  de- 
detested  and  abhorred.  I  could  see  no  trace  of  such  a 
feeling,  and  must  be  allowed  to  express  a  personal  un- 
belief of  the  whole  story.  Imperialists,  belonging  to 
the  wealthy  and,  former,  "  ruling  classes,"  who  might 
be  expected  to  speak  reverentially  of  him,  so  far  as 
my  observation,  at  least,  goes,  all  hold  his  memory  in 
contempt,  and  regard  him  as  the  author,  not  only  of 
his  own  misfortunes,  but  of  those  who  adhered  to  his 
cause.  They  often  say  of  him  that  he  was,  personally, 
a  gentleman,  in  his  carriage  and  demeanor,  but  vain  to 
the  last  degree,  cold-blooded,  fond  of  idle  pomp  and 
show,  and  devoid  of  all  the  qualities  of  heart  and 


228  THE   SCENE    OF   THE   DOWNFALL. 

head  to  fit  him  for  personal  popularity,  and  enable  him 
to  succeed  in  such  an  enterprise  as  founding  an  empire 
on  the  ruins  of  a  republic. 

Queretaro  is  situated  on  the  north-eastern  edge  of  a 
wide  plain,  around  which,  on  the  north-east,  north,  and 
west,  runs  a  range  of  low  hills  commanding  the  city.  In 
April,  and  the  early  part  of  May,  1867,  the  position  of 
the  contending  armies  was  about  as  follows  :  Gen.  Es- 
cobedo,  the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Republican 
forces,  had  his  head-quarters  on  the  heights  east  of 
the  city,  and  held  undisturbed  possession  of  the  north- 
east and  south-east,  and  debated  with  the  Imperialists 
the  possession  of  the  lower  part  of  ihe  city  nearest  his 
head- quarters.  The  Imperialists  held  the  west,  south- 
west, and  south-east,  and  the  main  portion  of  the  city ; 
while  Gen.  Corona  on  the  south,  and  Regules  and  the 
American  Legion  on  the  west,  hemmed  them  in,  and 
prevented  their  escape  toward  the  Pacific. 

The  old  Convent  and  Church  of  Las  Cruces,  is  an 
immense  structure,  with  walls  of  great  strength,  and  is 
situated  on  a  hill  sufficiently  high  to  command  the  city, 
but  is  commanded  in  turn  by  the  heights  beyond  the 
town  occupied  by  General  Escobedo.  The  Alameda 
is  on  low  ground,  overlooked  by  the  heights  occupied 
by  Corona,  but  is  surrounded  by  a'  stout,  stone  wall, 
and  was  well  defended  by  artillery  and  the  Casa  Blanca. 
Between  it  and  the  Cerro  de  Las  Campanas  is  an  old  ha- 
cienda, with  immense  walls,  invulnerable  to  everything 
but  the  fire  of  the  heaviest  ordnance.  From  Las  Cru- 
ces to  the  Cerro,  in  a  direct  line,  is  a  mile  and  a  half, 
and  the  line  of  defences  was  nearly  two  miles — twice 
too  long  for  the  force  that  held  it,  or  rather,  tried  to 
hold  it. 


THE   SIEGE   OF   QUEEETARO.  229 

The  story  of  the  siege  of  Queretaro  and  the  deeds 
of  daring  on  both  sides  is  now  tolerably  familiar  to 
the  reading  public.  Maximilian  sent  out  Miramon  with 
the  flower  of  his  army  to  attack,  and  if  possible,  cap- 
ture Juarez  at  Zacatecas.  He  captured  the  city,  Ju- 
arez barely  escaping,  but  next  day  was  attacked  and 
routed  by  Escobedo,  and  on  the  following  day,  having 
retreated  thirty  miles  and  united  his  forces  to  those  of 
Castillo,  was  again  overtaken  and  routed  completely,  by 
Escobedo,  his  whole  army  being  killed  or  dispersed,  and 
himself  escaping  wounded,  and  with  but  a  handful  of 
men  remaining.  * 

On  the  fourteenth  of  April,  Corona  made  a  daring 
and  desperate  attack  upon  the  strong-hold  of  Las  Cru- 
ces,  and  scaling  the  high  walls  of  the  cemetery  on  the 
north-east  side,  occupied  a  position  under  the  very  walls 
of  the  Convent  for  an  hour,  but  was  driven  out  at  last 
by  the  besieged,  after  a  hand-to-hand  conflict.  Later 
in  the  siege,  Corona,  while  resting  his  forces  in  the  plain, 
in  the  rear  of  the  Casa  Blanca,  was  surprised  in  the 
early  morning  "by  the  forces  under  Miramon,  who 
marched  under  the  cover  of  the  night  from  the  Casa 
Blanca  to  the  Alameda,  and  suddenly  flanking  his  po- 
sition, routed  him,  and  compelled  him  to  retreat  to 
the  hills,  a  few  hundred  yards  in  the  rear.  This,  how- 
ever, gained  him  no  permanent  advantage,  and  he 
was  in  turn  flanked  by  Escobedo,  and  compelled  to 
retire  within  the  intrenchments. 

The  sortie  made  with  a  view  of  escaping  to  Morelia, 
had  been  made  by  Maximilian's  forces  previous  to  this 
surprise  of  Corona,  and  had  failed.  Now  for  the  final 
catastrophe.  The  story,  I  heard  from  one  ot  the  officers 
of  the  court-martial  which  condemned  Maximilian,  Mir- 


230  LAST    SCENE   IN    THE    CONFLICT. 

amon,  and  Mejia  to  death ;  and  from  other  parties  who 
were  eye-witnesses,  some  of  whom  evidently  sympa- 
thized with  the  Imperialists. 

On  the  night  of  the  14th  of  May,  1867,  the  Impe- 
rialists were  defeated  at  all  points,  exhausted  and  dis- 
pirited. They  had  lived  on  mule-meat  and  bean-bread 
for  weeks,  and  even  that  was-^one.  Maximilian,  de- 
spairing, at  last,  of  assistance  from  abroad,  saw  that 
all  was  lost,  and  at  lip.  M.  he  sent  Lopez,  who  was 
then  the  "  officer  of  the  day,"  to  the  head-quarters  of 
General  Escobedo,  with  instructions,  to  say  to  him,  that 
he  proposed  to  take  fifty  picked  horsemen,  escape  across 
the  Sierra  Gordo  to  Tampico  or  Tuxpan,  and  embark  for 
Europe,  leaving  the  place  to  surrender  at  once,  if  his 
own  life  was  guaranteed  him.  Escobedo  repelled  the 
proposition  with  contempt,  telling  Lopez  that  he  had 
strict  orders  to  refuse  all  terms  to  Maximilian,  as  an 
outlaw,  and  violator  of  the  laws  of  war,  and  that  he 
would  carry  the  city  by  assault  at  the  next  attempt. 
Lopez  returned  to  Maximilian,  told  him  of  his  utter 
want  of  success,  and  then  returned  to  the  advanced 
post  occupied  by  him,  just  below  Las  Graces,  on  the 
north-western  side,  and  in  the  outskirts  of  Queretaro. 

Escobedo,  reasoning  that  the  proposition  could  only 
come  from  a  man  in  the  last  extremity,  at  once  called 
a  council  of  war,  and  the  general  'assault  which  had 
been  previously  ordered  for  the  following  day  at  8  A. 
M.,  was  directed  to  be  made  immediately.  The  Repub- 
lican troops  reached  the  out-post  held  byLopez  in  front 
of  Las  Cruces  at  4  A.  M.,  and  as  soon  as  Lopez  saw  them, 
he  told  his  men  that  further  resistance  was  useless. 
Some  say,  that  he  said  that  the  Republicans  were  de- 
serters who  came  to  join  the  Imperialists,  but  this  is 


HOW    MAXIMILIAN    WAS    TAKEN.  231 

denied  by  Lopez  and  his  friends.  At  any  rate,  he  ran 
directly  to  the  head-quarters  of  Maximilian  at  La  Cru- 
ces,  told  him  all  was  lost,  and  urged  him  to  fly  to  Las 
Canipanas,  and  escape  if  he  could.  Maximilian,  who 
appeared  to  have  completely  lost  his  senses,  ran  down 
from  his  room  in  the  second  story  of  the  convent  to  the 
basement,  and  demanded  his  horses,  but  was  told  that 
the  Republicans  already  had  possession  of  the  stables. 
He  then  ran  out  toward  the  north,  but  was  caught 
by  the  shoulder,  by  an  officer  who  pushed  him  back, 
telling  him  that  he  was  running  directly  into  the  jaws 
of  death.  He  then  ran  on  'foot  through  Queretaro  in 
a  south-westerly  direction  toward  the  Cerro  de  Las  Cam- 
pari as.  On  his  way  through  the  city  he  was  seen  in 
uniform  by  some  of  the  soldiers  of  the  regiment 
of  Col.  Rincon  of  the  Republican  forces,  who  had 
already  made  their  way  to  the  heart  of  the  city. 
They  cried  out  to  stay  him,  but  Col.  Rincon,  either 
because  he  did  not  recognize  him,  or  because  his  fa- 
ther had  been  under  great  obligations  to  Maximilian, 
replied,  "  No  ;  he  is  only  a  private  citizen,  and  a  coun- 
tryman of  ours ;  let  him  go !"  He  then  ran  on  to 
Las  Campanas  uninterrupted,  and,  demanding  horses, 
was  told  that  it  was  useless,  as  all  the  country  in 
front  was  already  occupied  by  General  Regules. 

Thus  cut  off,  and  surrounded  at  all  points,  he  took 
a  white  flag  in  his  hand,  and  started  down  the  slope 
of  one  hundred  feet  toward  the  city,  and  before  reach- 
ing the  bottom  met  Col.  Geo.  M.  Green,  the  accom» 
plished  officer  in  command  of  the  American  Legion  of 
Honor  from  San  Francisco,  whom  he  recognized.  Shots 
had  by  this  time  been  fired  at  Maximilian,  repeatedly, 
by  the  advancing  Republicans,  and  he  was  in  a  pitiable 


232  HOW    MAXIMILIAN    WAS    TAKEN. 

condition  ;  exhausted,  disheartened,  and  with  his  great, 
weak  lips  trembling  so  that  he  could  hardly  command 
his  speech,  he  asked  Col.  Green  not  to  let  him  fall  into 
the  hands  of  General  Escobedo,  of  whom  he  stood  in 
mortal  terror,  but  to  point  out  General  Corona  and  al- 
low him  to  surrender  to  him.  Col.  Green  said  to  him : 

"Calm  yourself;  the  Emperor  of  Austria  has  sent  a 
commission  to  ask  the  American  Government  to  inter- 
cede for  your  life  !" 

Maximilian  apparently  greatly  relieved  by  the  infor- 
mation, replied : 

"  And  my  brother  has  done  this  ?" 

By  this  time — all  had  passed  in  a  few  seconds — Gen 
eral  Corona  had  reached  the  spot,  and  going  straight  up 
to  him,  Maximilian  said: 

"  I  am  Maximilian,  Emperor  of  Mexico."  (drawing 
his  sword  and  presenting  it ;)  "  I  am  the  Emperor  no 
longer,  but  a  Mexican  citizen,  and  your  prisoner  ?" 

Corona  replied : 

"No,  Maximilian,  you  are  not  now  Emperor,  and 
never  were !" 

He  then  motioned  to  a  subordinate  to  receive  his 
sword,  refusing  himself  to  accept  it,  or  make  any  terms 
of  surrender,  and  referring  him,  altogether,  to  General 
Escobedo,  his  superior  in  command.  Lopez  now  or- 
dered the  Austrians  and  others  in  his  command,  to 
disarm,  and  the  work  was  complete. 

The  story  that  Lopez  sold  out  to  Escobedo  for  sev- 
enty thousand  dollars,  in  coin,  is  in  a  measure  rebutted 
by  the  facts  that  the  Republicans  had  not  a  dollar  to 
pay  him ;  that  he  has  not  been  known  to  have  a  dollar 
since ;  and  that  there  was  no  need  of  such  a  bribe,  as 
all  chance  for  successful  resistance  was  gone,  and  the 


WAS   LOPEZ   A   TKAITOE?  233 

Republicans  already,  had  the  city,  practically,  in  their 
power ;  the  City  of  Mexico  was  certain  to  fall,  for  it 
could  not  be  defended  long  by  the  forces  within  it. 
There  was  no  point  on  the  continent  from  which  suc- 
cor could  possibly  come.  It  is  a  fact  against  him,  that 
he  was  not  imprisoned,  for  a  time,  like  his  brother  offi- 
cers ;  but  may  not  that  be  explained  on  the  hypothesis, 
that  although  detested  (as  were  all  those  who  had  gone 
over  to  the  Empire,)  by  the  Republicans,  they  still  felt 
that  he  was  entitled  to  some  consideration  for  having 
stopped  the  effusion  of  blood,  when  the  proper  time 
arrived,  and  it  was  just  and  proper  that  he  should  do  so. 
Strict  military  disciplinarians  might  urge  that  his  duty 
was  to  have  died  at  his  post ;  not  to  presume  to  judge 
of  the  exigencies  of  a  situation  when  his  superior  offi- 
cer was  in  command,  and  on  the  ground ;  but  civilians 
will  ask,  to  what  good  would  such  self-sacrifice  conduce, 
and  it  will  be  hard  to  answer.  I  do  not  propose  to 
offer  an  apology  for  a  man  whose  former  life  had  been 
regarded  infamous  by  his  most  intimate  acquaintances ; 
but  something  is  due  to  the  truth  of  history ;  and  it 
really  seems  to  me,  from  all  the  evidence  which  I  gath- 
ered at  the  time,  and  that  which  I  found  on  the  spot, 
that  Maximilian  was  not  betrayed  by  Lopez ;  and  that 
he  (Maximilian),  on  the  other  hand,  did,  on  the  night 
of  the  1 4th  of  May,  offer  to  abandon  his  companions 
to  their  fate,  and  escape,  personally,  to  the  coast  of  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  from  thence  to  Europe,  is  beyond 
a  doubt. 

We  found  the  room  occupied  by  Maximilian  at  Las 
Cruces,  unroofed,  and  filled  with  rubbish,  from  a  pile 
of  which,  small  trees  had  grown  up ;  from  one  of  them, 
as  much  as  twelve  feet  in  height,  I  plucked  a  handful 


234  MAXIMILIAN,   MIRAMON   AND   MEJIA. 

of  flowers.  Some  one  had  written  in  bold  letters,  on 
the  wall,  with  charcoal,  "  Mexico  es  Libre !"  but  I  saw 
no  other  inscription.  In  the  rooms  below,  all  was  just 
as  it  was  when  the  imperial  horses  were  taken  out,  af- 
ter the  fall.  We  went  up  and  stood  in  the  bell-tower 
in  which  Maximilian  stood  when  a  cannon-ball  from 
Escobedo's  batteries  cut  downN  his  aid  by  his  side. 
All  the  buildings  around  the  Convent  were  tenantless, 
roofless,  and  in  ruins,  having  been  dismantled  by  the 
Imperialists,  or  leveled  by  the  Republican  batteries, 
and  never  repaired. 

From  Las  Campanas,  Maximilian,  with  Miramon, 
Mejia,  Prince  Salm  Salm,  and  others,  was  taken  back 
to  the  city  and  imprisoned  for  six  or  seven  days  in  the 
old  Convent  of  Theresite.  From  thence  he,  with  Mir- 
amon and  Mejia,  went  to  the  old  monastery  of  Los  Ca- 
puchinos,  and  there  they  remained  under  guard  (while 
the  court-martial  decided  their  case)  until  the  19th  of 
June,  thirty-four  days  after  their  capture,  when  they 
went  out  to  die.  Maximilian  persisted  until  the  last 
hour  in  the  belief  that  the  barefooted  and  ragged  Re- 
publicans of  Mexico  would  not  dare  to  shoot  a  Prince 
of  the  house  of  Hapsburg-Lorraine,  and  one  of  the 
"  Lord's  Anointed."  But  they  did ! 

When  at  Los  Capuchinos,  I  was  shown  by  a  friend 
who  accompanied  me,  the  window  at  which  Maximilian 
was  looking  out,  when  he  visited  the  place  during  the 
pseudo  Emperor's  confinement  after  the  court-martial 
had  sentenced  him  to  death.  It  faces  the  patio,  and 
in  the  room  adjoining,  on  the  other  angle,  Miramon  and 
Mejia  were  confined.  By  looking  diagonally  across  the 
corner  of  this  patio,  they  could  see  each  other  when 
standing  at  their  windows.  When  my  friend  entered 


THE   STOEY    OF   THEIR   EXECUTION.  235 

they  were  conversing.     Miramon  called  out  to  Maxi- 
milian : 

"  Emperor :  I  beg  you  to  prepare  for  death ;  I  tell  you 
that  they  will  certainly  shoot  us !" 

Maximilian  replied  confidently: 

"No,  they  dare  not  do  it :  they  may  shoot  you  possi- 
bly, but  Don  Benito  will  not  let  me  be  killed.  He  win 
send  me  either  to  the  United  States  or  to  Europe!" 

Miramon  shrugged  his  shoulders  and  replied : 

"I  assure  you  that  you  are  deceiving  yourself;  they 
will  certainly  shoot  us  all ! " 

In  Maximilian's  room  I  saw  a  hole  in  the  floor  where 
the  pavement  had  been  taken  up,  as  if  to  effect  an  es- 
cape into  the  room  below ;  but  could  not  learn  whether 
this  was  made  during  the  time  that  he  was  there  con- 
fined or  subsequently. 

In  company  with  Senor  Dueiias,  I  rode  out  to  see  the 
spot  where  the  three  met  their  death.  On  the  north- 
eastern slope  of  the  low,  rocky  hill-side,  facing  the  city, 
a  rude  barrier  of  adobes  had  been  thrown  up  to  stop 
the  bullets,  and  here  the  carriage  halted.  Gen.  ESCQ 
bedo,  with  a  motion  of  the  hand,  directed  Maximilian 
to  come  down.  The  puppet  Emperor,  una^e-astomed 
to  such  treatment  from  those  he  regarded  as  the  dust 
of  the  earth,  gave  him  a  look  of  doubt  which  finally 
changed  to  a  scowl,  descended  hesitatingly,  and  walked 
mechanically  toward  the  summit  of  the  hill.  Miramon 
arrived  next,  and,  seeing  that  Maximilian  was  going 
wrong,  called  him  back.  They  stood  at  Tirst  with  Maxi- 
milian in  the  center,  but  the  position  was  changed, 
and  when  the  troops  drew  up  on  the  hill  below  to  fire 
upon  them,  Maximilian  stood  on  the  west,  Miramon 
next,  and  Mejia  on  the  east.  Maximilian,  from  a  re- 


236 


LAST    SCENE    IN   THE    TRAGEDY. 


pugnance  to  touching  the  hands  of  common  men,  had 
contracted  the  habit  in  Mexico  of  standing  with  his 
hands  behind  him,  and  in  this  position  he  stood,  and 
said  something  inaudible  to  the  spectators,  to  Mejia  and 
to  Miramon.  Then  he  commenced  a  bitter,  rambling,  and 
incoherent  speech  to  Escobedo — not  the  words,  at  all, 
which  have  since  been  put  in  his  mouth — about  being 
willing  to  die  for  the  good  of  Mexico,  but  was  stopped 
and  told  to  face  the  muskets.  Mejia  stood  with  his 
arms  folded,  Miramon  holding  his  written  defense ;  and 


THE   EXECUTION   OF  MAXIMILIAN. 


Maximilian  with  a  cross  elevated  in  his  right  hand, 
when  the  sharp  crash  of  the  volley  came,  and  all  three  roll- 
ed upon  the  ground.  Mejia  and  Miramon  died  instantly, 
but  Maximilian  repeatedly  clapped  his  hand  on  his 


THE  CEEEO  DE  LAS  CAMPAjXAS.          237 

head  as  if  in  agony,  and  expired  with  a  struggle,  as 
the  echoes  of  the  muskets  died  away  among  the  canons 
of  the  distant  Sierra. 

Died  away  did  I  say  ?  No ;  not  there,  nor  then ! 
Those  echoes  rolled  across  the  broad  Atlantic  and  shook 
every  throne  in  Europe.  The  royal  plotter  against  the 
liberties  of  men  heard  them  in  his  palace  by  the  Seine, 
and  grew  pale  as  he  listened.  They  rolled  over  the 
Pyrenees,  and  the  throne  of  Isabella  began  to  crumble  ; 
over  the  Alps,  and  every  monarch  from  Italy  to  the  far- 
thest East  heard  in  them  the  rumblings  of  the  com- 
ing earthquake — the  prelude  of  the  fall  of  empires. 
They  will  roll  on,  and  on,  through  the  coming  ages,  and 
be  answered  by  the  uprising  millions  of  future  genera- 
tions, until  "Kingly  Prerogatives"  and  "Divine  Right"are 
things  of  the  past.  The  world  had  waited  long  for 
these  echoes,  and  was  better  when  it  heard  them  at  last. 

The  ground,  which  but  a  few  short  months  ago  was 
torn  by  cannon-shot,  trampled  by  contending  armies, 
and  drenched  with  the  blood  of  Europe  and  America, 
is  now  covered  with  corn-fields ;  and  three  plain,  wooden 
crosses,  painted  black,  without  inscription  of  any  kind, 
and  mounted  on  a  rude  pile  of  stones,  alone  mark 
the  spot  whereon  was  enacted  the  last  scene  of  one  of 
the  most  tremendous  dramas  of  our  time. 

The  laborers  were  engaged  in  gathering  the  corn, 
when  our  carriages  drove  up,  and  th.ey  stopped  a  mo- 
ment and  looked  on  with  silent  interest,  as  Mr.  Seward 
stood  beside  the  rude  mound,  while  the  uncle  of  Mira- 
mon  told  the  story  of  the  execution,  and  the  two  sisters 
of  the  most  ambitious,  bigoted  and  unscrupulous  of  Mex- 
ico's celebraties,  clad  in  black,  stood  weeping  silently 
behind  them.  Some  there  may  be,  who  will  think  that 


238  THE    LAST    OF   THE    EMPIRE   OF   MEXICO. 

I  am  hardly  human,  in  my  want  of  sympathy  for  the 
men  who  expiated  their  crimes  against  liberty  and  the 
rights  of  men,  at  the  Cerro  de  Las  Campanas ;  but  let 
them  see  the  widows  and  orphans,  the  mined  towns, 
depopulated  districts,  poverty,  misery  and  woe,  which 
they  brought  upon  this  lovely  land,  as  I  have  seen  them, 
and  then  sympathise  with  dead  royalty  and  its  suppor- 
ters if  they  can.  I  have  as  much  sympathy  for  human 
misery  as  any  man  living,  but  it  is  with  the  innocent 
victims  of  this  crime  against  all  that  is  holy, — the  star- 
ving, poor  and  helpless, — that  I  sympathize ;  not  with 
those  who  staked  their  all  on  the  dice, — trusting  to  gain 
the  wages  of  crime,  be  worshiped  for  their  success, 
and  feared  for  their  power, — lost,  and  paid  the  penalty. 
I  would  have  doubted  the  justice  of  God,  had  Maximil- 
ian lived,  and  the  thousands  of  brave  men  whom  he 
sent  to  death  through  his  black  flag  decree  slept  una- 
venged in  their  bloody  graves.  I  have  stood  on  the 
Cerro  de  Las  Campanas,  and  I  know  that  God  is  just ! 

"  The  mills  of  the  Gods  grind  slowly, 
But  they  grind  exceeding  small." 

They  never  ground  a  grist  finer  than  that  which  Na- 
poleon ILL  sent  to  their  mill,  marked  "  Empire  of 
Mexico." 


THE  END  OF  THE  EMPIRE. 


CHAPTER!. 

FROM  QUERETARO  TO  MEXICO. 

TTTE  left  Queretaro  early  on  the  morning  of  Nov. 

*  *  1 2th,  and,  passing  through  the  battle-field  of  El 
Cemetario,  around  La  Cruces,  and  San  Francisquito,  with 
their  loop-holed  and  shattered  walls,  ruined  outworks, 
and  surrounding  hamlets,  deserted  and  desolate,  as- 
cended a  long  hill,  from  the  summit  of  which,  we  ob- 
tained a  glorious  view  of  the  white-walled  city  and  the 
lovely  valley  around  it.  Our  road  led  us,  nearly  all 
day,  through  a  very  broad  and  rich  valley,  covered 
with  corn-fields  stretching  out  to  the  very  horizon,  well 
cultivated  and  very  productive.  The  haciendas  of  the 
proprietors  of  these  vast  estates,  each  a  strong-walled 
fortress  surrounded  by  the  hovels  of  the  laborers  like 
ancient  feudal  castles,  formed  a  very  picturesque  feature 
of  the  scene. 

At  2  p.  M.,  we  had  made  forty-two  Mexican  miles,  and 
reached  the  fine  old  Mexican  town  of  San  Juan  del 
Rio,  where  we  were  received  and  entertained  in  the 
most  hospitable  manner,  by  Seuor  Don  Antonio  Diaz  y 
Torres  and  his  amiable  and  accomplished  wife,  at  their 
beautiful  city  residence.  The  municipal  authorities  wel- 
comed Mr.  Seward  with  addresses  and  music,  and  Se- 
nor  Don  Ramon  de  Ybarrola,  a  young  civil  engineer, 
proprietor  of  the  great  estate  of  Galindo,  in  the  vicin- 
ity, made  a  brief  "  felicitation  "  in  English. 


240  THE  LAND  OF  THE  MAGUEY. 

The  town  has  numerous  churches  and  old  convent 
buildings — the  latter  now  confiscated  and  converted 
into  public  schools — but  not  much  else  worth  seeing. 
The  population  numbers  ten  thousand. 

Next  day,  the  13th  of  Nov.,  we  drove  the  same  dis- 
tance over  a  wide,  prairie-like,  uncultivated  plain,  and  a 
lava-field  of  twenty  miles  in  width,  the  road  through 
which  was  fearfully  rough.  This  old  lava  underlies  the 
soil — the  rich,  black  loam,  of  the  country — at  a  depth 
of  three  to  six  feet,  for  many  square  leagues.  We  had 
been  passing  over  such  beds,  or  "  flows,"  from  time  to 
time,  on  all  the  journey  from  Colima.  Where  so  much 
of  this  material  could  have  come  from,  is  a  mystery,  at 
this  day. 

We  were  now  at  an  elevation  of  forty-five  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  steadily  ascending.     Here,  the 
American  Aloe,   Maguey,  Century,  Mescal,  or  Pulque 
plant,  as  it  is  termed  in  different  localities,  grows  to  an 
immense  size — much  larger  than  in  the  tierre  caliente — 
and  is  planted  out  in  regular  order,  in  extensive  fields, 
all  along  the  road.     Many  of  the  plants  were  sending 
out  their  blossom  stalks,  ten  to  twenty  feet  in  height, 
looking,  for  all  the  world,  like  telegraph  poles  at  a  dis- 
tance, and  like  gigantic  asparagus  sprouts  when  near  at 
hand ;  and  a  few  were  bursting  into  blossom.     This  is 
the  "  Century  plant,"  which,  Northern  people  have  so 
long  believed  blooms  but  once  in   a   hundred  years, 
but,  which  matures  here,  in  from  five  to  ten  years.     It 
blooms  but  once,   the  stalk  being  cut  out  to  form  a 
reservoir  for  the  milky  sap  which  accumulates  therein, 
and  is  drawn  out  to  be  converted  into  pulque  and  mes- 
cal.    From  each  old  plant,  five  or  six  "  suckers" — each 
of  which  will  produce  a  new  plant — spring  up,  and  are 


AEROYO    ZAKCO THE    RURAL    GUARD.  241 

cut  off  and  planted  separately  to  keep  the  plantation 
good.  The  plant  requires  but  little  cultivation,  and 
costs,  on  an  average,  about  fifty  cents  from  first  to  last. 
Each  plant  yields  about  a  barrel  of  pulque,  and  a  large 
amount  of  fibre  for  ropes  and  matting,  and  is  worth, 
altogether,  about  five  dollars.  The  owner  of  a  planta- 
tion of  one  hundred  thousand  magueys  considers  him- 
self worth  five  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

At  night  we  stopped  at  a  fonda  at  Arroyo  Zarco,  a 
large  old  hacienda,  rich  in  pictures  of  great  age  and 
merit,  and  other  curious  things.  The  owner  loner  since 

/  O  O 

abandoned  it  as  a  residence,  on  account  of  the  state  of  the 
of  the  country,  moving  his  family  for  safety  and  comfort 
to  the  city  of  Mexico. 

As  the  Governor  of  Queretaro,  who  had  started  for 
the  capital  on  three  hours  notice,  to  stand  his  trial  be- 
fore Congress,  had  been  stopped  and  robbed,  just  out- 
side the  gates  of  Mexico,  in  the  week  previous  to  our 
arrival,  it  was  not  deemed  prudent  for  us  to  go  over  the 
road  alone.  The  'authorities,  accordingly,  furnished  us 
with  a  detachment  of  regular  cavalry,  and  from  village 
to  village  we  were  further  escorted  by  detachments  of 
the  rural  guard,  a  very  well  mounted,  and  reliable  body 
of  men,  armed  with  the  Maynard  rifle,  revolvers,  and 
sabres.  These  rural  guards  furnish  themselves  with 
everything,  pay  all  their  own  expenses,  and  receive  one 
dollar  each  per  day  from  the  municipalities. 

Next  day,  Nov.  14th,  we  rode  forty-five  miles — Span- 
ish— over  the  roughest  kind  of  a  road,  soft  lime-rock 
and  lava,  mixed  in  about  equal  proportions,  through  a 
country  mostly  unfitted  for  cultivation,  and  inhabited 
only  by  a  few  poor  people,  scattered  at  wide  intervals. 
We  staid  at  night  at  Tepeji  del  Rio,  at  the  residence  of 
16 


242  TEPEJI   DEL   RIO. 

Mi\  Archibald  Hope,  an  Englishman  forty-five  years 
resident  in  Mexico,  who  is  erecting  a  cotton  and  woolen 
factory  and  flour-mill,  at  this  point,  which  were  to  be 
ready  for  operation  in  a  few  days.  This  mill  is  fur- 
nished with  the  best  of  machinery  from  England  and 
the  United  States,  and  will  employ  three  hundred  work- 
men, and  is  in  all  its  departments,  one  of  the  most  com- 
plete in  Mexico. 

Wood  is  sold  every  where  in  Central  Mexico,  by  the 
arroba  of  twenty-five  pounds  weight.  Here  it  costs 
only  five  or  six  cents  per  arroba  /  at  Celaya  it  costs 
seven  to  eight  cents,  and  at  Queretaro  ten  cents.  As 
we  approach  the  Capital  and  ascend  to  greater  altitude, 
the  country  become  less  well- wooded,  the  hills — save  in 
a  few  places — are  bare  of  trees,  and  only  on  the  highest 
mountains  could  we  see  any  large  timber.  The  oak — of 
a  species  resembling  the  live  oak  of  California — fresno, 
willow,  water-beech  and  mesquite  are  the  principal 
trees  to  be  seen. 

The  nopal,  or  prickly  pear,  grows  in  great  luxuri- 
ance, and  the  maguey  increases  in  size  and  value,  but 
the  peculiar  vegetation  of  the  tropics  has  mainly  disap- 
peared. The  nights  at  this  time  were  cool,  though 
there  was  no  frost,  and  the  thermometer  during  the  day 
stood  at  sixty  to  seventy  degrees. 

We  left  Tepeji  del  Rio,  early  on  the  15th  of  Nov.,  for 
our  last  days'  ride  towards  Mexico.  For  thirty-eight 
days  we  had  been  "  swinging  around  a  circle,"  as  it  were, 
having  advanced  northward  from  Manzanillo  to  Guada- 
lajara, thence  eastward  to  Guanajuato,  thence  south- 
easterly and  south  to  Queretaro  and  Mexico,  traveling 
in  all  a  distance  of  about  eight  hundred  Spanish  miles, 
and  halting  some  days  at  each  of  the  principal  cities. 


LJ 


THE   BLIND    MAN   AND    HIS    DAUGHTER.  243 

During  all  this  time  we  had  heard  not  a  word  from 
home,  and  knew  nothing  of  the  passing  events  in  the 
United  States ;  as  a  matter  of  course,  we  were  anxious 
enough  to  finish  our  journey  and  be  once  more  in  com- 
munication  with  the  outside  world. 

As  we  were  passing  along  the  road  I  observed  an 
incident  which  my  readers  may  think  hardly  worth  re- 
cording, but  which  struck  me  at  the  moment  as  very 
affecting.  In  a  narrow  part  of  the  road  we  met  a  little 
Indian  girl  of  perhaps  twelve  years,  carrying  a  large 
basket  filled  with  some  country  produce  upon  her  back, 
and  guiding  her  father  at  the  same  time.  The  father 
was  old  and  blind,  but  still  strong,  and  carried  a  heavy 
burden,  likewise,  on  his  shoulders.  To  guide  himself  he 
kept  one  hand  resting  lightly  upon  the  basket  carried 
by  his  daughter,  and  when  our  coach  came  suddenly 
upon  them,  and  she  sprang  out  of  the  track  to  give  it 
room,  he  followed,  keeping  exact  pace  with  her,  evi- 
dently, reposing  in  perfect  confidence  upon  her  judg- 
ment and  discretion.  Something  which  she  may  have 
said  in  an  undertone,  or  more  probably  her  start  of  sur- 
prise and  attitude  of  attention,  led  him  to  think  that 
there  was  something  unusual  in  the  spectacle  presented 
to  her  eyes,  and  with  a  blind  man's  instinct  he  laid  his. 
other  hand  gently  and  with  a  loving  caress  against  her 
cheek,  as  if  he  sought  to  divine  her  thoughts  from  the 
changes  which  passed  over  her  features,  as  fear,  wonder, 
or  animated  curiosity  affected 'them.  Of  all  the  scenes 
which  I  witnessed  in  Mexico,  grand,  beautiful,  or  pain- 
ful, none  impressed  itself  more  vividly  on  my  memory 
than  that  of  this  timid,  shrinking  child,  bearing  life's 
burden  in  all  its  fullness  thus  prematurely,  and  her 
blind  old  father,  bending  beneath  the  load  of  years  and 


244          PULQUE  AND  THE  PULQUEKIES. 

poverty,  standing  there  by  the  dusty  roadside,  on  the 
lonely  highway,  in  such  attitude  as  could  not  fail  to 
strike  the  eye  of  the  painter  or  the  poet — I  am  neither 
—on  the  instant ;  a  picture  unpainted,  a  poem  un- 
written, but  a  picture  and  a  poem  filled  with  tender 
sentiment  and  touching  pathos,  nevertheless. 

After  a  ride  of  ten  miles,  over  a  rough,  hard  moun- 
tain road,  through  a  poor,  barren  country,  we  emerged 
at  last,  upon  the  summit  of  a  divide,  and  looked  down 
for  the  first  time  upon  the  valley  of  Mexico. 

The  day  was  bright  and  beautiful.     Lake  Zupango 
lay  off  to  our  left,  on  the  south-eastward,  and  beyond 
it  the  little  city  of  that  name,  with  its  tall  old  church 
tower  peeping  out  from  among  the  embowering  trees. 
The  valley  immediately  before  us  was  broken  up  with 
small  hills  which  interrupted  the  view,  somewhat,  at 
first.      Numerous  small    lakes,  natural  or   artificially 
formed  for  irrigating  purposes,  were  scattered  here  and 
there  among  the  hills,  and  on  the  right,  on  the  left, 
and  all  around,  were  little  hamlets,  often  half  in  ruins, 
with  dilapidated  old  stone  churches  and  abandoned 
convents  and  monasteries,  in  endless  profusion.     The 
valley  grows  richer  as  you  advance  towards  the  Capital. 
The  vegetation    is   more  luxuriant — and  the  villages 
larger  and  more  thrifty  in  appearance.     The  corn-fields 
on  either  side  of  the  road  were  large,  and  the  ripe  crop 
heavy,  and  the  maguey  plantations  grew  more  extensive 
at  every  mile.     The  road  is  bordered  with  tall  trees- 
beeches,  willows,  fresnos,  and  pepper  trees,  in  full  bear- 
ing.    At  the  little  towns  we  noticed  the  potteries  at 
which  the  delicate,  red  earthenware  of  Mexico  is  made 
and  kept  for  sale,  and  numerous  "pulqueries"  with  the 
./w/^w-drinkers  standing  around  them  leaning  against 


HOW   PIG-SKINS    AEE    MADE    IN   MEXICO. 


245 


the  walls  in  a  state  of  stupid  intoxication,  with  an 
expression  of  utter  vacuity  or  idiocy  upon  their  faces. 
The  liquor  is  exposed  to  the  sun  in  the  skins  of  pigs, 
sheep,  and  goats,  denuded  of  the  hair  and  bristles,  which 
appear  to  have  been  taken  off  whole.  After  much  dili- 
gent inquiry,  Mr.  Fitch  elicited  the  statement,  that  the 


MANEUVERING  FOB  A  PIG-SKIN. 


skins  are  taken  off  by  allowing  the  pigs  to  fast  twenty 
four  hours,  then  tying  them  by  their  tails  to  posts,  and 
coaxing  them  out  of  their  coverings  by  holding  ears  of 
corn  just  in  front  of  their  noses. 

The  statement  went  down  in  his  book,  at  once,  and 
was  added,  unhesitatingly,  to  the,  already,  large  stock  of 
useless  knowledge  he  had  accumulated  on  the  trip. 
The  fact  is  that  the  animal  is  beaten  with  a  club  until 
all  the  bones  are  smashed,  and  the  flesh  reduced  to  a 


246  A    REMINISCENCE   OF   WHITE  PINE. 

pulp,  and  the  mass  is  then  drawn  out,  little  by  little,  at 
the  neck. 

Walking  on  down  the  road  in  advance,  as  the  coach 
was  ascending  a  hill,  I  saw  an  officer  riding  toward  me, 
and  was  so  startled  by  a  resemblance  to  an  American 
friend  whom  I  left  in  White  Pine  Mining  District,  Ne- 
vada, that  I  accosted  him  at  once.  To  my  great  relief 
and  surprise,  as  well,  I  found  that  he  could  not  speak 
a  word  of  English.  There  was  a  slightly  unpleasant 
episode  recalled  to  my  mind  by  that  resemblance. 
When  the  rush,  in  mid-winter,  into  the  airy  and  inclem- 
ent mountain  region  of  White-Pine,  was  at  its  height, 
a  party  had  gathered  one  cold,  stormy  night  in  our 
cabin  on  the  summit  of  Treasure  Mountain,  and  was 
whiling  away  the  hours — in  the  absence  of  theaters, 
churches,  lecture-rooms,  and  choice  female  society, — im- 
bibing hot  fluids,  and  filling  in  the  odd  minutes  at  the 
elevating  and  ennobling  occupation  of  playing  draxv- 
poker.  (I  would  here  observe  that  draw-poker  is 
played  with  five  cards,  dealt,  one  at  a  time,  all  around— 
not  two  first  and  three  next,  as  in  euchre.  I  make  this 
explanation  as  a  matter  of  necessity,  the  second  and 
third  propositions  having  been  advanced  in  my  hearing 
not  long  since,  by  no  less  an  authority,  than  an  United 
States  Minister,  who,  in  spite  of  his-  professed  knowl- 
edge of  the  game,  has  been  known  to  lay  down  two 
large  pairs,  when  his  opponent,  who  only  held  ace  high, 
raised  him  with  six  hundred  dollars  already  on  the 
board.  I  make  this  explanation  in  the  interest  of  the 
heirs  of  Hoyle — not  that  I  care  anything  about  it  myself.) 

Among  the  party  were  two  of  the  tallest  men  in  the 
camp — Messrs.  Downton  and  Gerry — who  had  been  in- 
troduced to  each  other  for  the  first  time  that  evening. 


THE  STORY  OF  DOWNTON  AND  GEEBY. 


247 


As  the  night  advanced,  their  conversation  became 
more  and  more  affectionate  and  affectingly  personal. 
Each  was  over  six  feet  in  his  stockings,  each  blue-eyed, 
light-haired,  a  little  inclined  to  stoop  in  the  shoulders, 
and  possessed  of  a  decidedly  camel-like  hump,  or  pro- 
tuberance on  the 
bridge  of  the  nose, 
and  a  very  consid- 
er able  deflection 
of  that  organ  from 
the  line  of  the  per- 
pendicular. These 
facts  had  not  at- 
tracted the  atten- 
tion of  the  rest  of 
the  party  to  any 
considera  b  1  e  e  x  - 
tent ;  but  as  the 
drinking  and  play- 
ing went  on,  the 
worthies  not  iced 
them  o  f  t  h  e  m - 

selves,  and  commented  upon  them  freely.  The  more 
they  thought  of  it  and  talked  about  it,  the  more  thor- 
oughly they  became  convinced  that  the  resemblance 
was  something  more  than  accidental,  and  that  in  some 
mysterious  and  undefined  way,  they  must  be  blood-re 
lations  of  a  very  near  degree  of  kindred. 

So  they  went  on,  drinking  and  complimenting  each 
other  on  their  mutual  good  looks  and  family  resem- 
blance, and  by  a  curious  fatality,  winning,  between 
them,  all  the  money  from  the  other  parties  around  the 
board.  The  losing  members  of  the  distinguished  com- 


A  FAMILY  RESEMBLANCE. 


248  SAD    RESULT    OF    BUSINESS    REVERSES. 

pany  bore  tins  until  it  became  considerable  of  a  bore, 
and  it  grew  evident  that  if  the  game  went  on  in  that 
way  all  night,  most  of  them  would  be  ruined  past  the 
hope  of  redemption.  It  is  beautiful  to  see*  brethren 
dwelling  together  in  unity,  but  when  you  have  to  stand 
the  expense,  and  make  them  happy  out  of  your  own 
pocket,  the  spectacle  loses  niuclr  of  its  attraction ;  at 
least,  so  thought  the  others  present  that  night.  At 
length,  Joe  Ackerson  got  the  deal,  and  there  were 
some  heavy  hands  out,  apparently,  judging  from  the 
way  different  parties  invested  their  beans.  Downton 
had  gone  a  "  blind ; "  and  Gerry  saw  it  and  raised  it. 
Downton  made  the  blind  good  and  raised  him ;  then 
Gerry  saw  it  and  raised-  him ;  and  so  it  went  on  until 
each  had  his  entire  pile  on  the  table,  and  all  the  other 
players  had  drawn  out,  and  were  looking  on,  except  Joe 
Ackerson,  who  had  announced  himself  as  having  had 
chicken-pie  enough,  and  retired  to  his  luxurious  bunk, 
drawn  the  drapery  of  his  couch — San  Francisco  eight 
pound  woolen  blankets — around  him,  and  to  appear- 
ance, at  least,  laid  down  to  pleasant  dreams. 

They  came  to  a  call  at  last,  and  showed  their  hands. 
Gerry  threw  down  four  kings  triumphantly,  and  reached 
forward  to  rake  down  the  coin ;  but  Downton  gently  re- 
pulsed him,  and  laying  four  aces  before  his  astonished 
eyes,  pulled  it  all  over  to  his  side  of  the  table,  and  com- 
menced counting  it  into  twenty  dollar  heaps,  prepara- 
tory to  stowing  it  in  his  pockets  and  handkerchief.  It 
was  perfectly  astonishing  how  quickly  these  two  affec- 
tionate and  gushing  brothers  forgot  their  probable  re- 
lationship, on  which  they  had  doated  so  much  a  few 
minutes  before,  and  went  into  criminations  and  recrim- 
inations, and  from  that  to  belligerent  demonstrations. 


THE  VALLEY  OF  MEXICO.  249 

Business  reverses  will  sour  any  man's  disposition,  and  I 
have  known  the  peace  of  many  a  happy  and  devoted 
family  irretrievably  wrecked  by  an  unfortunate  com- 
mercial venture,  or  an  investment  in  stocks  on  a  falling 
market. 

Luckily,  neither  of  them  had  their  revolvers  within 
reach  at  the  moment,  but  they  made  a  general  average 
on  the  chairs  and  furniture — all  the  property  of  others 
as  it  happened — and  when  the  company  separated 
them,  we — the  owners  of  the  property  destroyed — were 
temporarily  ruined,  and  they  went  their  way,  vowing 
undying  hatred  of  each  other  to  the  end  of  their  days. 

Since  that  moment  I'have  had  a  horror  of  meeting 
people  who  resemble  each  other,  and  it  was  an  infinite 
relief  to  me  when  I  found  that  this  man  whom  I  met  on 
the  road,  and  my  friend  in  White  Pine,  were  of  differ- 
ent nationalities,  and  not  likely  to  greet  each  other  as 
natural  brothers,  should  they  ever  come  together. 

Ten  miles  ride  in  the  valley  took  us  out  from  among 
the  broken  hills,  and  the  view  became  magnificent. 
The  mountains  along  the  eastern  horizon,  beyond  the 
lakes  of  Mexico,  lay  like  great  purple  clouds  against 
the  deep  blue  sky.  Popocatapetl,  monarch  of  them 
all,  lifted  his  head,  white  with  the  snows  of  ages,  ma- 
jestic and  awful  in  its  grand  proportions,  far  into  the 
unclouded  heavens  in  the  distance.  Truly,  the  beauty 
ot  the  Valley  of  Mexico  has  not  been  overrated. 

Ten  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico,  Senor  Lerdo 
de  Tejada,  and  Matias  Romero,  two  of  the  most  noted 
men  of  the  Cabinet  of  President  Juarez,  and  the 
United  States  Minister  to  Mexico,  Mr.  Nelson,  were 
waiting  with  carriages  and  an  escort  of  brilliantly 
uniformed  cavalry,  and  the  party  left  the  coach  in  which 


250  PRESIDENT   JUAREZ    AND   MEXICO'S   GUEST. 

we  had  traveled  from  Guadalajara,  for  the  more  luxuri- 
ous method  of  conveyance.  We  passed  to  the  left  of 
Chapultepec  and  the  Molino  del  Key,  and  directly  by 
the  famous  tree  under  which  Hernando  Cortez  found 
shelter  on  the  memorable  Noche  Triste,  when  his  forces 
cut  their  way  by  night  through  the  hosts  of  the  infuri- 
ated Aztecs,  piled  up  the  dead%to  make  a  causeway 
on  which  to  escape  across  the  shallow  laguna,  and  at 
last,  sorely  pressed,  disheartened,  and  almost  annihi- 
lated, escaped  from  the  city.  Then  the  glorious  pan- 
orama of  the  great  City  of  Mexico  unrolled  itself  be- 
fore us. 

At  the  Grarita  de  San  Cosme,  the  stern,  old  champion 
of  Republicanism,  the  man  of  many  adventures  and 
the  most  wonderful  history  and  most  varied  fortunes, 
the  man  of  the  iron  will  and  indomitable  resolution 
which  stand  out  on  every  feature,  the  man  with  the 
charmed  life,  who  has  escaped  unscathed  from  more 
plots,  conspiracies,  and  accidents,  than  any  other  man 
now  living ;  the  man  who  will  live  in  history  as  one  of  the 
wonders  of  our  age,  the  man  sent  by  Providence  to  repel 
foreign  invasion,  crush  and  destroy  the  despotism  of  the 
church,  free  the  peon,  establish  schools,  suppress  insurrec. 
tions,  deal  the  last  blow  at  imperialism  in  America,  and 
rule  a  turbulent  nation  with  a  rod  of  iron,  the  Citizen  Presi- 
dent, Benito  Juarez,  stood  waiting  to  receive  the  nation's 
guest.  He  was  dressed  in  plain  black,  and  had  not  even 
a  liveried  servant  in  attendance ;  his  wife  and  daughter 
accompanied  him.  The  brief,  friendly  greeting  over, 
and  the  other  members  of  our  party  having  been  intro 
duced  by  Senor  Bossero,  the  cavalcade  resumed  its  way 
and  entered  the  Capital  City  of  the  Republic. 

Driving  past  the  old  Alameda  de  Montezuma,  where 


IN   THE    CITY    OF   MOJSTTEZUMA. 


251 


the  last  great  King  of  the  Aztecs  used  to  walk  beneath 
the  trees  at  morning  and  evening,  and  the  famous,  gi- 
gantic equestrian  statue  of  Charles  the  Fourth,  in 
bronze,  we  went,  directly,  to  the  palace-like  residence  at 
the  corner  of  the  Castle  de  Alfaro  and  Arco  de  San 
Augustin,  which  had  been  expressly  fitted  up  for  the 


INTERIOR  OE  MR.   SEWARD'S  HOUSE  IN  MEXICO. 

reception  of  Mr.  Seward  and  party.  President  Juarez, 
who  had  driven  ahead — emerged  from  the  gateway,  bare- 
headed, and  said  to  Mr.  Seward : — "  will  it  please  you 
sir,  to  enter  your  house  ?  This  is  your  home,  sir  !"  He 
then  waited  upon  him  to  his  apartments,  bade  him  a 
kindly  "  good-evening !"  and  immediately  drove  away, 
and  we  were  at  home  in  Mexico. 


CHAPTER  XL 

MEXICO  AND  ITS  SUBROUKDINGS. 

T  CANNOT  imagine  a  place  which  has  more  of  interest 
to  the  traveler,  than  the  city  of  Mexico,  both  within  its 
walls  and  in  its  immediate  surroundings.  Paintings 
and  statuary,  fine  old  buildings,  beautiful  flowers,  objects 
and  points  of  historic  interest,  and  women  whose  lovli- 
ness  is  proverbial,  attract  the  attention  of  the  traveler, 
go  where  he  may.  When  I  had  been  a  week  there,  it 
seemed  but  a  day,  and  with  all  the  longing  for  home 
and  its  associations — to  none  dearer  than  to  myself — I 
could  but  look  forward  with  regret  to  the  hour  of  our 
departure,  two  weeks  later.  If  one  could  with  safety, 
ride  out  unarmed  and  unaccompanied  by  guards,  through 
the  environs  of  Mexico,  I  know  of  no  place  where  he 
could  spend  a  whole  year  with  more  complete  satisfac- 
tion. Mexico  ought  to  be  the  Paradise  of  the  earth, 
and  the  day  is  coming  when  it  will  be  so  considered. 
Even  now,  it  presents  almost  irresistible  attractions  to 
the  traveler,  and  the  more  one  sees  of  it,  the  more  one 
admires  it,  despite  all  its  drawbacks. 

We  plunged  at  once  into  the  enjoyment  of  life  in  the 
Capital  and  its  vicinity,  paying  particular  attention  to 
the  beautiful  and  historic  surroundings,  and  suburban 
resorts.  On  the  Sunday  after  our  arrival,  Mr.  Seward's 
party,  accompanied  by  Senor  Komero  and  his  accom- 
plished American  wife,  and  his  sister  Senorita  Luz  Ro- 


4  5 

LADIES  OF   MEXICO. 

(1)  Sefiorita  Dofia  Rosa  Mancillas.    (2)  Senorita  Dolores  Mora.    (3)  Sefiorita  Luz  Acosta. 
(4)  Seilorita  Solcdad  Juarez.    (5)  Seflorita  Maclovia  Hill. 


EXCUKSION    TO    LA  CANADA.  253 

mero,  his  mother-in-law  Mrs.  Allen,  Gen.  Mejia  the 
Minister  of  War,  and  his  daughter, — a  magnificent 
blonde,  one  of  the  acknowledged  belles  of  Mexico, — • 
attended  by  a  strong  guard,  rode  out  to  Tacubuya,  and 
from  thence,  via  the  old  battle  fields  of  Contreras  and 
Churubusco,  to  La  Canada,  a  hacienda  situated  in  a  deep 
gorge  in  the  mountains,  fifteen  miles  from  the  city. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  noted  places  of  resort  in  the 
vicinity  of  Mexico,'  and  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in 
the  world.  The  views  of  the  snowy  peaks  of  Popo- 
catapetl  and  the  grand  amphitheatre  of  Mexico  are  mag- 
nificent, and  beyond  description.  The  hacienda  itself 
is  equally  beautiful,  and  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at 
that  Maximilian,  who  desired  to  purchase  or  appropri- 
ate every  beautiful  spot  in  the  country,  desired  very 
much  to  acquire  La  Canada,  and  probably  would  have 
succeeded  had  the  Empire  and  his  funds  held  out. 
The  party  lunched  there  and  returned  to  the  City  de- 
lighted with  the  'excursion. 

For  myself,  I  stopped  at  Tacubuya,  to  call  upon  some 
friends  temporarily  residing  there,  and  spent  a  most  de- 
lightful evening.  There  I  met  Mrs.  Gibbon,  a  Mexican 
lady,  whose  husband — a  member  of  the  family  which 
produced  the  great  historian — is  a  wealthy  mine-owner 
of  Pachucha;  Mrs.  Adele  Mexia  de  Hammekin,  the 
beautiful  and  accomplished  wife  of  an  American  gentle- 
man long  a  resident  of  Mexico,  and  daughter  of  the 
Republican  General  Mexia,  who  was  shot  in  1836,  after 
his  defeat  by  Santa  Anna ;  Seuor  Acosta,  a  thorough 
scholar  and  accomplished  civil  engineer,  and  his  daugh- 
ter Seiiorita  Luz  Acosta,  one  of  the  most  accomplished 
young  women,  and  most  devoted  and  loving  daughters 
I  have  ever  met,  who,  subsequently,  visited  the  United 


234  VISIT  TO  TACUBUYA. 

States  to  study  English  in  our  schools ;  Seuorita  Olivia 
Boulay,  a  fair  young  Californian,  who  in  three  years 
residence  in  Mexico,  had  almost  lost  the  faculty  of 
speaking  English,  though  born  in  San  Francisco ;  Mr. 
Brennan,  of  the  projected  Tuxpan  railroad,  and  his 
wife,  and  others. 

From  the  windows  of  the  residence  of  Mr.  Gibbon 
at  Tacubuya,  there  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Castle 
or  Palace  of  Chapultepec,  and  the  Molino  del  Rey,  and 
from  the  roof,  Mrs.  Gibbon  watched  the  progress  of  the 
battles  of  Contreras,  Churubusco,  Molino  del  Rey,  Cha- 
pultepec, and  the  running  fight  down  the  line  of  the 
aqueduct  to  the  Garita  del  Belan,  and  the  surrender  of 
Mexico.  There,  too,  she  often  saw  Maximilian  walking 
in  the  gardens  of  Chapultepec,  and  all  the  incidents  of 
the  siege  of  the  city  by  the  Republicans  under  Porfiero 
Diaz,  were  familiar  to  her,  as  his  head-quarters  were  at 
Chapultepec. 

Mrs.  Hammekin  speaks  English,  French,  Spanish, 
German,  and  Italian,  with  almost  equal  fluency,  and  has 
an  inexhaustible  fund  of  anecdotes  relating  to  the  dif- 
ferent personages  that  have  figured  in  Mexico  since 
1830.  Mr.  Hammekin  is  an  American  by  birth,  and 
one  of  those  who  achieved  the  independence  of 
Texas,  and  was  taken  prisoner  in  the  unfortunate  "  Mier 
Expedition."  They  live  in  one  part  of  the  extensive 
house  formerly  owned  and  occupied  by  Gen.  Urega, 
whose  complicity  in  the  Empire  caused  the  confiscation 
of  all  his  property.  The  grounds  are  very  extensive 
and  have  been  very  fine,  but  are  now  neglected  and  go- 
ing to  decay.  Grottoes  of  lava,  a  subterranean  cave 
with  a  well  at  the  bottom  said  to  have  been  excavated 
by  Montezuma — I  wonder  what  old  Monte  did  not  do 


THE    AMERICAN    CEMETERY.  255 

in  Mexico ! — immense  baths  in  the  open  air  shut  out 
from  the  gaze  of  curious  and  prying  eyes  by  thick  foli- 
aged  overhanging  trees,  broad  avenues,  beautiful  shrub- 
bery, and  countless  flowers — such  as  grow  only  in  the 
tropic  climes — a  billiard  saloon,  bowling  alley,  and 
other  places  of  amusement  and  recreation,  are  among 
the  attractions  of  this  delightful  resort.  In  such  com- 
pany, and  amid  such  surroundings,  the  hours  went 
quickly  by,  and  it  may  well  be  believed  I  was  in  no 
haste  to  return  to  the  city. 

On  our  way  back,  we  passed  the  American  and  Eng- 
lish Cemeteries.  Over  the  gate-way  of  the  American 
cemetery  was  lately  to  be  seen  this  startling  inscription : 

"  Here  lies  the  bodies  of  seven  hundred,  buried  un- 
der an  Act  of  Congress." 

I  am  glad  to  be  able  to  add  that  the  stone  bearing 
this  astounding  inscription,  was  stolen  just  before  our 
visit,  but  sorry  to  say,  also,  that  the  thieves  broke  into 
the  cemetery  and  carried  off  many  of  the  tomb-stones,  to 
be  worked  over  and  made  into  furniture,  and  sold.  The 
Imperialists,  during  the  latter  days  of  the  Empire,  did 
all  the  damage  in  their  power  to  the  cemetery,  demol- 
ishing a  part  of  the  fences  in  the  erection  of  batteries 
and  earth- works,  and  it  has  long  been  a  scandal  and  a 
reproach  to  the  United  States.  We  owe  it  to  the 
memory  of  the  brave  men  who  laid  down  their  lives  in 
a  war — right  or  wrong — to  carry  our  flag  into  distant 
lands,  that  their  graves  should  not  be  left  in  the  pres- 
ent disgraceful  condition. 

The  Republic  of  Mexico,  to  its  credit  be  it  said,  after 
the  return  of  Juarez  to  the  Capital  and  the  expulsion 
of  the  Imperialists,  spent  a  considerable  sum  in  repairing 
the  damage  inflicted  by  the  invaders,  and  re-erecting 


256  THE    GRAND    CANAL. 

over  the  graves  of  their  gallant  enemies  who  had  fallen 
in  the  attack  on  their  own  beloved  city,  the  monuments 
commemorative  of  their  names  and  deeds.  Had  the 
Government  of  Mexico  possessed  sufficient  funds  for  its 
own  immediate  necessities,  it  would  have  completed  the 
work.  As  it  is,  what  they  did  is  a  standing  reproach 
to  us,  and  we  should  see  thatxthe  necessary  funds  are 
provided  at  once. 

On  the  following  morning,  Major  Hoyt  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, Col.  Geo.  M.  Green  of  the  Republican  Army  of 
Mexico,  Senor  Antonio  Mancillas,  Member  of  Congress 
from  Durango,  Senor  Ribera,  Judge  of  the  Court  of  the 
Federal  District  of  Mexico,  and  myself,  started  out  for 
a  ride  through  the  suburbs  of  the  city.  We  drove 
first  to  the  Grand  Canal  which  connects  Lakes  Chalco 
and  Tezcoco,  by  way  of  which  a  large  part  of  the 
fruit,  vegetables,  and  other  pro  visions /enter  Mexico. 
This  canal  has  a  rapid  current  towards  the  city,  and  is 
navigated  by  almost  innumerable  boats,  of  small  size, 
propelled  by  poles  in  men's  hands  after  the  old  Mississip- 
pi "broadhorn"  style.  Everything  entering  the  city  must 
pay  a  duty,  as  in  Paris,  and  there  is  an  arched  gate-way 
at  one  point  tnrown  across  the  canal,  where  the  cus- 
toms collectors  and  their  deputies  are  on  duty  night 
and  day.  The  assistants  have  long  spears  with  which 
they  probe  and  run  through  a  cargo  in  a  few  minutes, 
or  seconds,  and  it  is  seldom  that  any  contraband  article 
escapes  their  vigilance.  This  station  is  called  "  La  Go- 
rita  de  la  Vija" — or  "the  Gate  of  the  Beam."  It  is 
said  that  the  customs  collected  from  the  boats  loaded 
only  with  farm  produce,  at  this  garita,  average  twelve 
hundred  dollars  per  day. 

When  General  Porfiero  Diaz  was  besieging  this  city 


THE   FLOATING    GARDENS    OF   MEXICO.  257 

after  the  fall  of  Queretaro,  Colonel  Green,  with  the 
American  Legion  of  Honor,  had  his  head-quarters  on 
Piiion  Island  in  Lake  Tezcoco,  about  a  mile  off 
shore,  in  front  of  the  city  on  the  east.  They  stopped 
all  the  boats  on  the  canal,  and  with  sixteen  hundred  of 
them,  built  a  pontoon  bridge  from  the  main  land  to  the 
island.  This  island  is  evidently  of  volcanic  origin. 
At  this  time  a  deep  rumbling  sound  is  to  be  heard  be- 
neath it,  and  the  matter  is  attracting  the  attention  of 
scientific  men,  who  think  it  worthy  of  careful  investi- 
gation. 

The  famous  "  Floating  Gardens  of  Mexico,"  lie  along 
the  shore  of  this  lake,  for  miles,  and  on  both  sides  of 
the  Grand  Canal.  They  were,  all,  sections  of  a  great 
"  float "  or  "  raft,"  composed  of  the  roots  and  stalks  of 
water  plants,  originally,  and  thickened  into  a  thin  sheet 
of  rich  soil,  in  time,  by  alluvial  deposits,  such  as  may 
be  seen  in  various  parts  of  the  Western  States,  and 
along  the  borders  of  the  sluggish  rivers  of  the  far 
south-west.  This  float,  originally,  rested  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  water ;  but  most  of  that  nearest  the  solid 
land  has,  already,  become  attached  to  the  bottom,  and 
in  course  of  years  all  will  become  so.  The  old  descrip- 
tions of  these  gardens  will,  in  the  main,  hold  good  to 
day,  allowing  only  for  the  gradual  change  in  their  con- 
dition. Between  each  is  a  narrow  strip  of  open  water, . 
or  canal,  and  most  of  them  are  highly  cultivated  and 
covered  with  garden  vegetables.  The  flat-bottomed 
boats  with  awnings  to  keep  off  the  sun,  looking  not  un- 
like the  Chinese  "  Sampans,"  run  down  the  canal 
through  these  gardens,  a  long  distance,  and  you  can 
hire  one  to  carry  you  twelve  miles  and  back  for  less 
than  a  dollar;  human  muscle  is  cheaper  here  than 
steam. 

17 


258  SCENE  OF  GUATAMOZIN'S  DEFEAT. 

In  one  of  the  outlets  of  the  canal,  opposite  Pinon 
Island,  we  saw  the  wreck  of  the  little  stern-wheel 
steamer  Guatamozin,  which  had  exploded  on  her  trial 
trip  on  the  lake  some  months  before.  President  Juarez 
and  cabinet  were  on  board,  and  the  party  just  sitting 
down  to  dinner  when  the  explosion  took  place.  The 
little  cabin  was  blown  to  atoms,  and  the  whole  upper 
works  smashed  into  kindling  wood,  but  strange  to  say, 
the  whole  party  escaped  unharmed,  though  Sefior  Ro- 
mero was  blown  overboard,and  was  in  the  water  sometime 
before  being  rescued.  It  seems  as  if  Juarez  must,  in- 
deed, bear  a  charmed  life,  and  that  his  good  fortune 
attaches  itself  to  all  about  him. 

On  Pinon  Island  there  are  large  deposits  of  nitrous 
earth,  and  a  great  number  of  Indians  are  engaged  in 
collecting  it,  and  washing  it  in  small  excavations,  where 
the  pure  saltpetre  is  separated  and  dried  in  the  sun.  It 
was  near  the  Garita  de  la  Vija  that  Guatamozin's  war- 
riois  were  at  last  defeated,  and  where  his  monument 
now  stands. 

The  story  of  the  long  siege,  and  the  innumerable 
battles  fought  by  Cortez  and  his  determined  band  of 
Christian  robbers,  as  they  advanced,  day  by  day,  along 
this  canal,  destroying  the  houses  and  filling  up  with  the 
ruins  the  gaps  made  in  the  causeway  every  night  by 
the  Mexicans,  is  told  with  vivid  impressiveness  by  Ber- 
nal  Diaz,  and  should  be  read  by  every  student  of  his- 
tory. This  story  knocks  half  the  poetry  out  of  the 
legends  of  old  Mexico,  and  shows  the  besieged  to  have 
been  ferocious  cannibals  and  unmitigated  savages,  and 
the  besiegers  only  a  little  worse,  more  savage,  lawless, 
brutal  and  selfish,  making  the  sign  of  the  Cross  with  one 
hand,  while  they  cut  throats  and  robbed  unoffending 
people  with  the  other. 


THE  TEEE  OF  THE  "  NOCHE  TEISTE." 


259 


From  this  neighborhood  we  drove  back  through  the 
southern    part    of    the    city,    to    the  Garita  de  San 


and  along 
the    great 

San  C  o  s  - 


TERMINATION  OF  THE  AQUEDUCT. 


me  a  q  - 
ueduct, 
which 
was  con- 
stru  c  t  e  d 
by  the 
forced  la- 
bor of  the 
Indians 
under  the 
Spaniards 
over  three 
hu  nd  r  e  d 
years  ago. 

It  is  seven  miles  long,  and  still  supplies  the  city  with 
water;  but  the  Mexican  Railway  Company  is  laying 
down  pipes  to  take  its  place,  and  it  will  soon  pass 
away. 

Near  the  garita  stands  the  famous,  old  cypress  tree 
under  which,  or  as  some  say,  in  the  branches  of  which, 
Fernando  Cortez  and  his  subordinate  officers  were  hid- 
den on  the  "  Noche  Triste"  while  his  troops  and  Indian 
allies  were  cutting  their  way  out  of  the  city,  and 
across  the  morass  which  they  had  bridged  with 
the  bodies  of  their  dead.  The  gnarled  and  twisted 
trunk  of  the  old  cypress  is  over  sixty  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  its  age  may  be  anywhere  from  one  to  four 


200  AN    AZTEC    IDOL. 

thousand  years.  In  height  it  does  not  compare  with 
the  Bio-  Trees  of  California,  but  it  has  a  certain  beauty 

O  v 

of  itself,  and  its  history  makes  it  one  of  the  objects  of 
interest  in  the  vicinity  of  this  wonderful  old  Capital. 

There  is  an  old  church,  half  in  ruins,  near  the  old 
historical  cypress-tree,  which  was  erected  in  commem- 
oration of  the  Noche  Triste,  and,  singularly  enough,  the 
worshipers  are  all  Indians — in  fact,  the  Indians  built  it 
and  have  always  occupied  it.  In  a  niche  in  the  church 
we  saw  an  ancient  Aztec  idol,  where  a  saint  would  be 
found  in  other  churches.  It  appeared  singular  enough, 
among  the  images  of  Saints,  Martyrs,  and  the  Holy 
Family,  but  it  is  held  in  much  reverence  by  the  Indian 
worshipers,  and  the  white  priests  do  not  offer  to  object 
to  it  on  account  of  old  associations. 

In  another  part  of  the  church  we  saw  a  sarcophagus, 
which  the  Indian  boy  who  acted  as  a  guide  for  us — in 
consideration  of  a  rial — told  us  contained  the  body  of 
the  Savior  of  the  world.  I  think  that  he  must  have 
been  misinformed,  as  his  story  disagrees,  in  some  im- 
portant particulars,  with  the  commonly  accepted  history 
of  the  crucifixion  and  resurrection ;  but  as  there  was  no 
possible  good  to  be  attained  by  a  discussion  with  him, 
we  did  not  stop  to  dispute  it. 

From  the  old  church,  we  went  to  a  beautiful  pleasure- 
garden  called  the  "  Garden  of  San  Cosme,"  where  we 
found  shady  walks,  trees,  flowers,  and  many  conven- 
iences for  amusement.  It  is  true  that  the  "  Happy  Fam. 
ily  "  consisted  of  a  deer  and  a  poodle-dog,  only,  but  the 
other  appurtenances  of  the  place  were  perfect.  They 
charge  one  dollar  an  hour  for  the  use  of  a  bowling  al- 
ley, and  we  proceeded  to  rent  the  establishment  and 
run  it.  We  had  champagne,  and  "the  Judiciary  of 


CHAMPAGNE,    TOASTS    AND    TEN-PINS.  261 

Mexico , "  then  ten-pins  ;  then  champagne  and  "  the  Bar 
of  the  United  States,"  then  ten-pins;  then  champagne 
and  "  the  Press  of  the  United  States,"  then  ten-pins ; 
and  then  champagne  and  "  the  National  Guard  of  Cali- 
fornia," then  ten-pins ;  then  champagne  and  u  the  two 
Republics,  and  death  to  all  their  enemies  !"  and  then  we 
went  on  having  champagne  and  things  until  night ;  and 
we  got  home  at  last,  all  right,  and  satisfied  that  there 
were  but  two  nations  on  earth  worthy  of  mention,  viz ; 
the  Republic  of  Mexico,  and  California ;  and  we  were 
right. 

Coming  home  through  the  city  past  the  house  of  a 
friend,  I  witnessed  a  scene  which  gives  one  a  good  idea 
of  how  police  matters  are  managed  in  Mexico. 

Workmen  were  engaged  in  erecting  a  new  door  at 
the  entrance  to  the  place,  and  the  passage,  otherwise 
kept  carefully  closed  and  guarded,  was  left  open  for  the 
moment.  One  6f  the  servants  coming  in,  met  a  street 
loafer  going  out  with  a  huge  bundle  of  clothing  which 
he  had  gathered  up  in  the  servants'  quarters  on  the 
ground  or  main  floor,  and  was  about  making  off  with 
them.  She  raised'  an  outcry,  at  once,  and  the  fellow  was 
seized  by  one  of  the  masons,  while  another  closed  the 
passage  and  prevented  his  escaping.  A  policeman  was 
sent  for,  and  meantime,  the  fellow  pleaded  earnestly 
for  his  liberty.  He  asseverated  that  he  had  only  gath- 
ered up  such  articles  as  he  had  supposed  were  of  no 
value,  and  thought  that  he  was  doing  them  a  favor  by 
carrying  off  the  old  rubbish  which  was  in  their  way. 

The  story  did  not  go  down,  and  he  was  detained  un- 
til the  police  arrived.  The  force  consisted  of  two  men, 
one  on  foot,  and  one,  who  appeared  highest  in  rank,  on 
horseback.  The  mounted  man  rode  into  the  patio  and 


262  AN   INFERNALLY   POLITE   THIEF. 

asked  for  a  statenieut  of  the  facts.  Several  witnesses 
detailed  them,  and  he  then  ordered  the  policeman  to  tie 
the  prisoner.  The  scamp  declared  at  first  that  he  would 
not  go  a  step,  but  the  sighj  of  a  lariat  on  the  saddle  of 
the  officer  caused  him  to  suddenly  change  his  mind. 
The  policeman  then  tied  a  small  cord  tightly  around 
his  left  thigh,  apparently,  to  hamper  him  so  that  he 
could  not  run  if  he  attempted  to  escape.  At  this  the 
prisoner  remarked : 

"  I  was  never  arrested  before  in  my  life,  and  am  an 
honest  man ;  but  if  you  are  determined  to  tie  me,  do  it 
this  way." 

Suiting  the  action  to  the  word  he  crossed  his  hands 
upon  his  breast,  in  a  manner  so  thoroughly  professional 
and  artistic,  as  to  show  that  he  was  well  accustomed  to 
the  tying  process,  and  bring  a  loud  laugh  from  the 
bystanders. 

The  policeman  then  started  to  untie  the  cord  from  his 
thigh  and  put  it  upon  his  wrists,  when  the  fellow  turned 
to  the  lady  of  the  house  and  coolly  remarked : 

Seiiora :  I  am  innocent ;  but  will  go  with  the  officers 
just  out  of  compliment  to  you!" 

This  freak  of  extraordinary  politeness  on  the  part  of 
a  thief,  caught  in  the  act,  enraged  the  officer  on  the 
horse,  and  jumping  down,  he  took  hold  of  the  cord  and 
commenced  to  tie  the  culprit  by  the  elbows  behind  his 
back,  ejaculating  at  each  jerk,  as  he  brought  the  elbows, 
nearer  and  nearer  together : 

"  You  will  go  with  me  out  of  compliment  to  a  lady, 

will  you  ?     You  must  be  a  high-toned  thief,  you  are  so 

infernally  polite  !     Out  *f  compliment  to  a  lady,  eh  ?'' 

All  the  squirming  and  grunting  of  the  thief  failed  to 

relax  the  cord  a  fraction,  and  he  was  soon  in  a  condition 


HOW    CORTEZ    PEOCUEED    POWDEE.  263 

which  would  have  defied  the  guardian  spirits  of  the 
Davenport  Brothers  to  release  him. 

The  officer  then  told  the  woman  to  roll  the  clothing 
in  a  bundle  and  tie  it  up,  which  was  done ;  then  he  or- 
dered the  thief  to  take  it  in  his  hand  and  carry  it, 
which  he  refused  to  do.  Thereupon  he  made  a  loop  in 
the  cord,  and  passing  it  over  the  neck  of  the  thief,  com- 
pelled him  to  carry  it  upon  his  back.  As  he  mounted 
his  horse,  his  attendant  attached  the  lariat  on  his  saddle 
to  the  cord  with  which  the  elbows  of  the  culprit  were 
tied,  and  told  him  to  vamos  I  instanter.  The  officer 
rode  off  on  horseback,  with  the  thief  at  the  end  of  his 
lariat  carrying  the  bundle  on  his  back,  and  walking  by 
the  side  of  the  horse,  the  woman  who  owned  the  cloth- 
ing and  those  who  were  wanted  for  witnesses  following 
him,  and  the  policeman  on  foot  bringing  up  the  rear. 
That  evening  the  woman  returned  with  the  clothing,  and 
brought  word  that  the  thief  had  been  tried,  convicted, 
and  sentenced  to  six  months  in  the  chain-gang. 

The  great  volcano  of  Popocatapetl  is  the  grandest 
and  most  striking  feature  of  the  glorious  panorama  of 
Mexico.  As  seen  from  the  Castle  of  Chapultepec,  or 
the  residences  of  the  Barons  or  Escandons,  at  Tacubuya, 
it  is  so  far  beyond  the  power  of  language  to  describe, 
that  only  the  veriest  tyro  would  make  the  attempt^ 
Only  those  who  have  sat  for  hours  on  hours,  absorbed" 
in  the  surpassing  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  scene,, 
can  approach  towards  an  appreciation  of  it. 

It  is  related  by  some  historians,  that  Cortez,  having- 
exhausted  his  supply  of  gunpowder  in  the  siege  of 
Mexico,  scaled  the  height  of  Popocatapetl,  and  descend- 
ing into  the  crater  obtained  therefrom  a  quantity  of  sul- 
phur, with  which  he  manufactured  sufficient  of  the  best 


2G4     THE  GREAT  VOLCANO  OF  POPOCATAPETL. 

quality  of  powder  to  enable  him  to  carry  on  the  siege 
to  a  triumphant  close.  But  Bernal  Diaz  de  Castillo, 
who  was  with  him  every  day  from  the  hour  of  his 
landing  in  Yucatan,  until  the  final  conquest  of  the 
country  down  to  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  was  ef- 
fected, makes  no  mention  of  this  fact ;  and  as  his  history 
is  the  only  one  extant  not  made  up  from  vague  tradi- 
tions, hearsay,  or  absolute,  unqualified  lies,  the  story 
may  wrell  be  doubted 

I  have  met  men,  in  years  gone  by,  who  professed  to 
have  stood  upon  the  edge  of  the  crater  of  Popocatapetl ; 
but  since  I  have  seen  the  mountain,  and  conversed  with 
General  Gasper  Sanchez  Ochoa — a  thoroughly  compe- 
tent engineer,  who  owns  the  vast  estate  on  which  it  is 
situated,  and  made  the  only  actual  survey  of  this  stu- 
pendous work  of  the  Almighty  hand,  which  has  ever 
been  accomplished — I  know  that  some  were  only  liars 
and  vain  boasters. 

Mr.  Seward  was  extremely  anxious  to  ascend  the 
mountain,  but  General  Ochoa,  though  offering  to  place 
every  facility  at  his  disposal,  frankly  told  him,  that  the 
effort  was  one  which  a  man  of  his  years  and  infirmities 
had  no  right  to  make,  and  he  could  not  anticipate  for- 
tunate results  in  case  he  attempted  it.  On  this,  the 
proposed  expedition  was  abandoned. 

The  editor  of  the  Hevista  Litetaria  of  Mexico,  pre 
pared  and  published  a  very  interesting  and  valuable  ar- 
ticle on  the  subject,  a  portion  of  which  has  been  trans- 
lated, and  will  be  read  in  the  United  States  with  inter- 
est sufficient  to  warrant  its  insertion  here : 

This  immense  snow-covered  peak  ascends  from  the  center 
of  the  table-land  of  An&huac,  and  its  base  is  several  leagues  in 
circumference :  its  slopes  commence  at  a  height  of  from  eight 


THE    WOMAN    I1ST    WHITE.  265 

thousand  to  nine  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
form  the  mountainous  ridges  all  around,  among  which  is  the 
Iztlasihuatl,  (meaning  White  Woman,  or  '"Woman  in  White,' 
in  the  old  Aztec  language,)  of  fourteen  thousand  four  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

"Perpetual  snow  covers  this  giant  of  a  mountain,  and  its 
slopes  are  mostly  composed  of  volcanic  matter,  (petrified  streams 
oi'lava  may  yet  be  seen)  forming  an  entirely  broken  ground,  gen. 
erally  known  under  the  vulgar  denomination  of  '  Mai  Pais. ' 
The  sand  near  the  snow-region  shows  no  sign  of  vegetation 
whatever,  and  immense  rocks  of  basalt  and  calcareous  forma- 
tions may  be  encountered. 

"In  the  language  of  the  Aztecs  the  name  of  Popocat- 
apetl  meant :  smoking  mountain,  or  hill  producing  smoke,  and 
in  fact,  the  quantity  of  smoke,  issuing  constantly  from  its  cra- 
ter, forms  a  dark  column,  visible  at  a  great  distance,  and  espe- 
cially so  during  a  clear  and  pure  atmosphere. 

"  The  Popocatepetl  may  be  compared  to  an  immense  silver- 
pyramid,  rising  from  a  great  basin,  whose  surfaces  are  covered 
with  all  possible  kinds  of  shrubs  and  trees ;  but  the  vegetation 
of  these  regions,  so  full  of  mystery  and  solitude,  and  so  inti- 
mately connected  with  historical  events,  grows  thinner  and 
thinner,  the  nearer  it  approaches  the  eternal  snows.  The  shrubs, 
in  place  of  the  beautiful  cedars  and  oyameles,  and  the  pale 
looking  flowers  growing  out  of  the  sandy  ground  or  appearing 
in  the  crevices  of  rocks,  indicate  dearly,  the  great  elevation  and 
the  thinness  of  the  air  unfavorable  to  vegetation. 

"The  few,  who  ever  made  the  ascension  of  this  fummg 
height,  have  admired,  and  very  justly  too,  the  imposing  grand- 
ness,  in  which  nature  clothes  itself  in  these  regions.  The  ex- 
ploring parties  of  the  old  Aztecs  never  penetrated  any  farther 
than  to  the  commencement  of  the  snows,  and  looked  upon  the 
Popocatepetl  with  great  veneration  and  also  fear,  believing  that 
a  malignant  spirit  had  taken  up  his  abode  in  the  interior  of  the 
mountain.  The  Spaniards,  when  short  of  powder  during  the 
times  of  the  conquest,  ascended  the  highest  summit,  but  never 
penetrated  any  distance  down  the  crater,  having  been  enabled 


260  GEN.  OCHOA'S  EXPEDITION. 

to  gather  sulphur  on  its  edges,  deposited  there  by  the  hot  fumes. 
(Doubted  as  above.  E.) 

"  Baron  Von  Humboldt  was  the  first,  who  came  as  far  as  the 
mouth  of  the  crater,  but  he  did  not  descend  into  the  latter ;  he 
contented  himself  with  making  some  astronomical  observations 
and  like  Baron  Von  Gros,  who  was  there  considerably  later, 
afterwards  published  a  geological  analysis  of  the  volcano. 

"•  In  the  year  1856,  a  scientific  expedition  was  undertaken, 
headed  by  the  engineer  Gen.  Gaspar  Sanchez  Ochoa.  Until 
then  an  exact  description  of  the  Popocatepetl  had  never  been 
made  and -it  was  only  through  this  expedition,  that  plans  of  the 
interior  of  the  mountain  were  obtained,  as  well  as  a  description 
of  the  horizontal  projection  of  the  crater,  and  the  crater  itself, 
its  deposits  of  sulphur,  etc.,  which  were  published  soon  after- 
wards, including  a  chemical,  geological  and  botanical  analysis. 

"  By  the  labors  of  this  expedition  it  was  ascertained,  that  the 
Popocatepetl  rises  to  nineteen  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty- 
three  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  according  to  Gaylusac's 
barometer,  which,  in  fact,  differs  but  slightly  from  Von  Hum- 
boldt's  statement  of  nineteen  thousand  four  hundred  and  forty 
feet  above  sea-level. 

"  The  snow-fields  of  the  volcano  cover  a  surface  of  more  than 
three  thousand  metres,  stretching  from  its  maimed  summit 
away  down  to  the  sandy  regions  of  its  slopes,  where  may  be 
seen  and  noticed  the  effects  and  devastations  produced  by  its 
former  fearful  eruptions  of  lava  and  inflammable  matter,  as  well 
as  many  rocks  of  black  and  gray  basalt,  all  kinds  of  tezontles, 
valuable  stones  of  various  colors,  and  red,  yellow  and  black 
clay. 

"  The  excavations,  which  have  been  carried  on  in  the  slopes, 
where  vegetation  exists,  have  revealed  many  remnants  of  vege- 
table coal  in  an  advanced  state  of  petrification,  which  clearly 
testifies,  that  immense  numbers  of  trees  must  have  become  car- 
bonized by  the  hot  lava,  flowing  at  such  a  great  distance. 

"  It  would  be  very  difficult,  to  designate  with  any  exactness 
the  time  of  the  first  outbreak  of  the  Popocatepetl,  but  it  may 
be  as  remote  as  four  thousand  years,  judging  from  the  result  of 


INTEEIOE    OF    THE    CEATEE.  267 

geological  investigations,  and  also  from  the  opinion  of  Baron 
Von  Sontang. 

"  The  temperature  of  this  enormous  maimed  cone,  during  the 
summer  season,  is  about  twenty-two  degrees  below  zero,  Fah- 
renheith.  The  edges  around  the  mouth  of  its  crater  are  more 
than  five  thousand  metres  in  circumference. — Those  parts  which 
allow  descending  into  the  crater,  have  a  surface  of  about  twenty 
metres,  are  covered  with  snow,  and  are  known  as ' Interior  edges? 
after  this  come  various  basalt  and  porphyry  rocks,  hanging  out 
over  the  abyss,  one  of  which  is  especially  worth  mentioning  on 
account  of  its  enormous  dimensions ;  on  its  surface  was  located 
the  malacate  or  windlass,  holding  a  cable,  by  means  of  which 
a  person  was  enabled  to  descend  to  a  projecting  acclivity,  and 
from  there  to  the  Plaza  orisontal  of  the  crater. 

"  The  height  from  the  malacate  to  the  aforementioned  ac- 
clivity is  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  metres,  and  its  entire 
depth  about  three  hundred ;  the  surface  of  the  Plaza  is  about 
two  hundred  metres  in  circumference  and  the  length  of  the  ac- 
clivity some  six  hundred;  the  interior  temperature  changes, 
according  to  the  proximity  of  the  respiraderos  or  sulfataras. 

"  The  Plaza  orisontal  of  the  crater  contains  rich  and  numer- 
ous layers  of  sulphur ;  from  all  parts  more  or  less  dense  coL 
umns  of  smoke  and  deadly  fumes  are  issuing  forth,  rising  up 
towards  the  great  opening,  spouting  out  the  sulphuric  vapors. 
Among  the  principal  sulfataras,  some  sixty  are  especially 
worth  mentioning,  but  principally »there  are  twenty-two,  whose 
yellow  outskirts  of  gold  color  denote  the  abundance  of  sulphur 
they  contain ;  one  of  these  sulfataras  alone  is  about  eighteen 
metres  in  circumference,  and  has  several  respiraderos  in  its  cen- 
ter, from  which  a  hissing  sound  is  escaping,  very  much  like  that  of 
a  half-opened  locomotive  valve  :  of  course,  an  immense  quantity 
of  sulphuric  fume  is  ejected  by  these  beautiful  sulfataras,  which 
may  be  counted  as  among  the  finest  of  the  world. 

"  Complete  day-light  reigns  at  the  bottom  of  the  crater,  as 
the  rays  of  the  sun  penetrate  down  into  it,  and  on  account  of 
this  circumstance,  a  more  picturesque  or  imposing  scene  can 
certainly  not  be  imagined ;  but  all  this  changes  very  quickly 


268    ENTERTAINMENT  GIVEN  BY  U.  S.  MINISTER  NELSON. 

when  a  storm  or  a  lorrasca  is  coming  on :  then  the  air  becomes 
completely  darkened  and  the  snow  is  drifting  down  in  profu- 
sion, (only  to  melt  as  soon  as  it  settles,)  the  respiraderos  are 
roaring  continually,  the  heat  increases  to  such  an  extent,  as  to 
become  insupportable,  the  centers  of  the  sulfataras,  from  time 
to  time,  spout  out  flames  and  burning  matters,  whilst  the  wind 
is  howling  around  the  immense  rocks  at  the  summit,  hanging 
over  the  edges,  and  threatening  to  uproot  them  and  precipitate 
them  into  the  abyss. 

"  Experiments,  made  in  the  crater  of  the  Popocatepetl,  have 
confirmed  the  belief,  that  by  comarcas  moviUes,  condensing  the 
hot  fume  by  refrigeration,  pure  and  crystallized  sulphur  may  be 
very  easily  obtained  at  little  cost :  on  separating  the  oxygenated 
part  from  the  hot  vapor,  sulphuric  acid  would  be  the  result. 

"  The  extensive  and  scientific  descriptions,  which  have  been 
at  different  times  published  by  the  engineer,  Mr.  Gasper  San- 
chez Ochoa,»have  since  sufficiently  posted  the  geological  socie- 
ties, both  of  Europe  and  the  United  States,  as  to  this  point,  as 
formerly,  but  very  scarce  and  inexact  descriptions  of  those 
regions  could  be  obtained." 

The  official  and  most  noticeable  demonstrations  in 
honor  of  Mr.  Seward  in  Mexico,  were  inaugurated  by  a 
dinner  at  the  San  Carlos  Hotel,  given  by  United  States 
Minister  Nelson  to  the  distinguished  American,  the 
members  of  his  party,  and  a  few  invited  guests,  inclu- 
ding the  members  of  the  Cabinet  of  President  Juarez, 
and  Baron  Schlozer,  the  Minister  of  the  North  German 
Confederation.  This  took  place  on  the  18th  of  Novem- 
ber. The  speeches  and  sentiments  were  all  eminently 
American,  but  as  the  demonstration  was  not  one  of  na- 
tional importance,  and  their  insertion  would  necessarily 
crowd  out  other  matter  of  more  general  and  lasting 
interest,  I  am  compelled  to  omit  them. 

On  the  21st  of  November,   Senor  Don  Matias  Ro- 


DINNEE    WITH   MATIAS    EOMEEO. 


269 


inero,  Minister  of  Finance — a  most  onerous,  thankless, 
and  unprofitable  office — and  formerly  Minister  Plenipo- 
tentiary to  Washington, 
gave  a  delightful  private 
dinner  to  Mr.  Seward  and 
the  members  of  his  party, 
with  a  few  friends.  Among 
the  ladies  present  were 


MATIAS  ROMERO. 


Mrs.  Eomero — formerly 
Miss  Lulu  B.  Allen  of 
Washington — her  mother 

—Mrs.     Allen — Senorita 
Luz  Romero,  Senorita  Do- 
lores Mejia,  the  beautiful 
and  accomplished  daugh- 
ter of  General  Mejia,  Minister  of  War  and  Marine,  who 
was  also  present.     The  reunion  was  social,  and  of  the 
most  intimately  friendly  character. 

Mr.  Seward  paid  a  high  and  well-deserved  tribute  to 
Senor  Romero,  for  the  services  rendered  by  him  to  the 
cause  of  liberty  and  Mexico  during  his  residence  at 
Washington,  and  the  latter  replied  in  feeling  and  affect- 
ing terms,  acknowledging  that  the  policy  marked  out 
by  Mr.  Seward,  though  strongly  opposed  by  himself 
and  General  Grant — both  of  whom  were  at  the  time  in 
favor  of  armed  intervention  by  the  United  States,  and 
the  expulsion  of  the  French  from  Mexican  soil  by  force 

—was  the  best  in  the  end,  and  accomplished  its  object 
without  entailing  on  Mexico  the  curse  which  usually 
falls  on  nations  who  call  in  a  more  powerful  neighbor 
to  relieve  them  from  a  present  danger,  creating  thereby 
a  danger  still  greater,  and  harder  to  meet  and  over- 
come. 


270  DINNER    WITH   THE   PRESIDENT'S   FAMILY. 

This  speech  contained  a  revelation  of  some  diplomatic 
secrets,  the  chief  of  which  was,  that  at  that  time,  Mr. 
Romero  and  prominent  military  men,  were  so  deter- 
mined to  bring  about  an  armed  intervention,  that  they 
coalesced,  with  the  object  of  securing  Mr.  Seward's  re- 
moval from  the  Cabinet,  but  failed. 

On  the  24th  of  November,  the  party  accompanied 
Mr.  Seward  to  Chapultepec,  to  dine  with  the  family  of 
President  Juarez.  This  dinner  was  a  most  sumptuous 
and  elegant  affair.  Nothing  that  money  could  procure, 
and  good  taste  suggest  was  lacking,  and  the  decorations 
of  the  grand  dining-hall,  reception-rooms,  and  parlors 
were  beautiful  and  tasteful  in  all  their  details.  Senor 
''Don  Benito," — as  his  friends  love  to  call  him — ami 
his  amiabl^  wife,  did  the  honors  of  the  house  in  a  man- 
ner which  put  all  the  guests — fifty  in  number — per- 
fectly at  their  ease,  and  they  were  assisted  by  all  the 
sons-in-law  and  daughters,  Miss  Soledad,  and  Don  Benito 
Juarez,  jr.  As  the  dinner  was  strictly  a  private  one, 
and  the  toasts  and  sentiments  such  as  would  be  given 
only  at  a  family  reunion  of  old  and  dear  friends,  I  shall 
say  no  more  about  it. 

The  table  was  spread  in  the  grand  saloon  in  which 
the  "  Feast  of  Belshazzar  "  —as  it  has  been  not  inaptly 
termed — took  place,  on  Maximilians  return  from  Ori- 
zaba, just  previous  to  his  departure  for  Queretaro  on 
the  fatal  expedition  which  resulted  in  the  collapse  of 
his  mushroom  empire,  and  the  erection  of  a  little  mound 
of  stones  and  three  black  crosses,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Cerro  de  Las  CampaDas,  as  a  monument  and  a  warning 
to  unscrupulous  and  ambitious  adventurers  for  all  com- 
ing time ;  the  table,  too,  was  the  same. 

We  went  up  on  the  roof,  and  looked  down  on  the 


AT   CHAPULTEPEC. 


271 


fair  Valley  of  Mexico — the  fairest,  it  seemed  to  us,  on 
which  our  eyes  had  ever  gazed.  The  grand,  old  forest 
with  its  huge  trees  covered  with  long,  grey  moss,  hang- 
ing down  like  a  funeral  pall,  and  the  winding  road 
leading  up  to  the 
castle,  was  at  our 
feet.  Up  the 
slope  to  the  rear 
of  the  castle, 
charged  the  victo- 
r  i  o  u  s  American 
troops,  on  the 
memorable  day 
when  the  last  bul- 
wark of  the  un- 
fortunate republic 
fell.  All  around 
the  palace,  or  cas- 
tle, were  the  beau- 
tiful gardens, 
filled  with  blooming  flowers  which  Maximilian  and 
Carlotta — I  never  heard  her  called  "  poor  Carlotta  "  in 
Mexico — had  planted. 

Out  by  the  gate-way  stands  the  scarred  and  black- 
ened tree,  at  whose  foot— so  tradition  says,  and  prob- 
ably tells  the  truth — Guatamozin,  "  heroic  in  the  de- 
fence of  his  empire  and  sublime  in  his  martyrdom,"  (as 
the  legend  on  the  monument  just  raised  to  the  honor  of 
his  memory,  on  the  banks  of  the  grand  canal  where  his 
final  defeat  took  place,  by  the  order  of  the  Agunte- 
mento  of  Mexico,  tells  us,)  was  put  to  cruel  torture  by  the 
ruthless  Spaniards,  in  the  vain  effort  to  make  him  reveal 
the  hiding  place  of  the  treasures  for  which  they  are  dig- 


CHAPULTEPEC. 


272       THE  PALACE  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS. 

ging  in  the  ancient  city,  to-day.  In  front  of  us  was  the 
fair  Capital  of  the  Republic,  with  its  many  towers  and 
steeples,  and  white-walled  palaces,  and  the  beautiful 
lakes  beyond,  glistening  in  the  bright  autumn  sun  of 
the  tropics. 

To  the  north-east,  beyond  the  city,  was  Guadaloupe, 
and  the  villages  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Tezcoco. 
Nearer  by,  off  a  little  to  the  left,  not  far  from  the  great 
aqueduct  of  San  Cosme, — which, oh  Vandalic  outrage! 
is  now  being  demolished  to  give  place  to  a  railroad 
track — is  the  Church  of  the  Noche  Triste,  and  the 
great  tree  in  which  Cortez  hid  on  the  night  of  his  dis- 
astrous retreat  from  Mexico.  To  the  right,  Tacubuya, 
with  its  nfonument  to  the  honor  of  the  brave  men  who 
fell  in  the  defense  of  Mexico  against  the  American 
Army  under  General  Scott,  and  the  scene  of  many  a 
fearful  deed  of  blood  and  outrage.  Behind  the  castle, 
the  red-walled  and  flat-roofed  "  Molino  del  Key,"  where 
so  many  gallant  American  soldiers  laid  down  their 
lives ;  and  further  south,  the  battle-fields  of  Contreras 
and  Churubusco. 

The  valley  of  Mexico,  with  its  surrounding  moun- 
tains, forms  a  perfect  amphitheater,  of  which  Chapulte- 
pec  is  the  "dress-circle."  Popocatapetl,  the  white, 
headed  old  monarch  of  all  the  mountains  of  North 
America,  towers  in  everlasting  grandeur  high  into  the 
blue  heavens,  in  the  south-east,  and  "the  Woman  in 
White  "-  —his  glorious  spouse — stands  beside  him  like 
a  royal  bride  at  the  altar.  Every  foot  of  the  ground 
within  the  limit  of  our  vision  is  historic,  and  around  it 
clings  nearly  the  entire  romance  of  the  New  World. 

Inexpressibly  lovely,  is  the  prospect  from  the  veran- 
dahs of  Chapultepec,  turn  which  way  you  will,  and  I 


SOUVESTIBS    OF   MAXIMILIAN.  273 

do  not  wonder,  that  Maximilian  lavished  such  sums 
upon  the  spot  which  he  fondly  anticipated  was  to  Ibe 
the  home  of  himself  and  his  descendants,  and  the  seat 
of  power  of  a  mighty  empire,  which  he  imagined  he 
had  founded  on  the  ruins  of  liberty  in  America.  The 
last  official  document  signed  by  this  infatuated  dreamer, 
when  he  was  surrounded  at  Queretaro,  and  captivity 
and  a  felon's  death  stared  him  in  the  face,  was  an  or- 
der  for  the  importation  of  two  thousand  German  night- 
ingales with  which  to  stock  the  groves  of  Chapultepec. 

The  obscene  statuary  which  he  placed  in  the  gardens 
and  corridors  of  Chapultepec,  though  generally  mutila- 
ted in  no  delicate  manner,  still  stands  there,  and  the 
walls  are  adorned  with  voluptuous  representations  of 
the  Seasons,  etc.,  after  the  style  of  an  ancient  Pornpeian 
Villa,  which  he  designed  to  imitate ;  but  there  are  no 
pictures  left  in  the  palace,  and  most  of  the  furniture, 
and  all  the  costly  plate  and  dinner-service  was  removed 
when  General  Diaz — who  had  his  head-quarters  here- 
reduced  the  city  to  a  surrender  and  the  last  act  in  the 
ghastly  farce  was  over. 

We  saw  the  bath-room  and  chambers  occupied  by 
the  royal  couple,  their  beds  and  parlor  furniture,  or  a 
portion  of  it,  and  a  few  other  relics  and  souvenirs,  but 
cared  more  for  the  attractions  with  which  nature  and 
art,  combined,  have  invested  the  view  from  the  veran- 
dah. The  magnificent  colonnade,  which  was  being 
erected  by  Maximilian's  orders  along  the  whole  front 
of  the  palace,  next  to  Tacubuya,  is  still  unfinished, 
and  the  stones  lie  just  where  they  were  left  when  the 
news  came  that  Queretaro  had  fallen;  and  knowing 
that  the  end  had  come, 

"  The  guests  fled  the  hall  and  the  vassals  from  labor," 
18 


274 


THE    ALAMEDA    OF    MEXICO. 


and  the  swift  vengeance  of  the  Almighty  fell  on  all 
who  had  participated  in  the  great  crime  against  free- 
dom and  humanity. 

We  rode  back  at  night-fall  through  the  broad, 
straight  avenue  which  Maximilian  had  cut  from  the  old 
Alameda,  under  whose  trees  Montezuma  once  walked, 
and  saw  thousands  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  riding  up 
and  down  on  the  long  paseo — a  drive  of  a  mile  or  more, 
the  fashionable  and  only  safe  drive  in  the  vicinity  of 
Mexico — while  the  military  band  played  in  the  plaza, 
and  the  cavalry  of  the  Mexican  army  galloped,  here 
and  there,  ensuring  us  and  them  against  the  attacks 
of  the  l&ndidos  and  plagiaros,  with  which  even  the 
suburbs  of  the  capital  swarm. 


LERDO  DE  TEJADA. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

FESTIVITIES  IN  MEXICO. 

Thursday,  November  30th,  Seuor  Don  Sebastian 
Lerdo  de  Tejada,  Minister   of  Foreign  Relations, 
(Secretary  of  State,)    gave  a  bachelor  dinner   at   his 
beautiful,  and  richly  and  tastefully  furnished  residence, 
in  honor  of  Mr.  Seward.     The  affair  was  strictly  a  pri- 
vate one,  and  only  sixteen  persons,  all  told,  sat  down 
to  the  banquet.     The   parties  were:   the  host,  Senor 
Lerdo,  Mr.   Seward,   United  States  Minister  Nelson, 
Minister  Romero,  Baron  Schlozer,  Minister  of  the  North 
German    Confederation,    Minister    Iglesias,    Frederick 
Seward,  General  Savadera,  General  Mejia,  Minister  of  , 
War,  Col.  Albert  S.  Evans,  Senor  Bossero,  George  S. 
Skilton,  United  States  Vice  Consul,  Minister  Balcarcel, 
Mr.  Fitch,  Mr.  Boal,  Secretary  of  American  Legation, 
and  Mr.  Foster. 

Mr,  Lerdo,  of  course,  made  the  first  after-dinner 
speech,  cordially  welcoming  Mr.  Seward,  recounting  his 
services  in  behalf  of  Mexico,  and  giving  due  credit  to 
the  Government  and  people  of  the  United  States,  for 
their  moral  and  physical  aid  and  sympathy.  He  con. 
eluded  with  a  toast  in  honor  of  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  to  which  Mr.  Nelson  made  a  brief  but 
effective  reply,  paying  a  high  tribute  to  Senor  Lerdo, 
and  toasting  President  Juarez  and  Cabinet. 

Mr.  Seward  then  read  the  following  address,  which 


276  PRIVATE    DINNER    AT    SENOR    LERDO's. 

was  translated  into  Spanish  and  read,  at  once,  by  Mr. 
Bossero : 

The  year  1861  without  calculation  or  effort,  and  almost  with- 
out expectation  on  my  own  part,  brought  me  to  a  position  in 
which  I  had  to  confront  a  desperate,  organized,  and  even  armed 
resistance,  to  all  the  great  political  -  ideas  which  I  had  fondly 
cherished  and  peacefully  promulgated  through  a  period  of  many 
years.     Slavery  had  taken  up  arms  in  alarm  for  its  life,  and 
had  organized  rebellion  aiming  at  the  dissolution  of  the  Amer- 
can  Union.     Spain,  deriding  what   under  the   circumstances 
seemed  the  imbecile  theory  of  the  Monroe  doctrine,  through 
the  treachery  of  President  Santa  Anna  gained  possession  of  the 
City  of  San  Domingo,  and  re-established  a  Vice  Royalty  in  that 
Island,  and 'soon  after  seized  the  Chincha  Islands  from  Peru; 
Great  Britain,  not  yet  cordially  reconciled  to  the  independence 
of  her  former  colonies,  the  United  States,  struck  hands  with 
France,  which  had  been  their  ancient  ally,  but  was  now  labor- 
ing under  a  hallucination  of  imperial  ambition,  and  with  the 
concurrence,  voluntary  in  some  cases,  and  forced  in  others,  of 
the  other  maritime  powers  of  Western  Europe,  lifted  the  reb- 
els of  the  United  States  to  the  rank  and  advantage  of  lawful 
belligerents.     The  statesmen  of  Europe,  with  its  press  almost 
unanimous,  announced  that  the  United  States  of  America  had 
ceased  to  exist  as  one  whole  sovereign  and  organized  nation.    The 
Emperor  of  France  emboldened  by  the  seeming  prostration  of 
the  United  States,  landed  invading  armies  at  Yera  Cruz  and  Ac- 
apulco,  and  overran  the  territories  of  Mexico,  overthrowing  all 
its  Republican  institutions  and  establishing  upon  their  ruins  an 
European  Empire.     "With  the  United  States  in  anarchy,  St. 
Domingo  re-established  as  a  monarchy,  and  Mexico  as  an  Em- 
pire, it  was  unavoidable  that  Republicanism  must  perish  through- 
out the  whole  Continent,  and  that  thereafter  there  would  re- 
main for  those  who  had  been  its  heroes,  its  friends,  its  advo- 
cates, and  its  martyrs,  only  the  same  sentiments  of  reverence 
and  pity  with  which  mankind  are  accustomed  to  contemplate 
the  memories  of  Themistocles  and  Demosthenes,  of  Cato  and 
of  Cicero. 


MR.  SEWARD'S  ADDRESS.  277 

In  that  hour  of  supreme  trial  I  thought  I  knew  better  than 
the  enemies  of  our  sacred  cause,  the  resources,  the  energies  and 
the  virtues  of  the  imperilled  nation.  In  the  name  of  the 
United  States,  I  called  upon  the  Republican  rulers  and  states- 
men of  the  Continent  for  moral  aid,  and  conjured  them  by  all 
the  force  of  common  sympathy,  common  danger  and  common 
ambition  to  be  faithful  and  persevering  in  their  own  Repub- 
lics. The  universal  answer  was  equal  to  the  expectation.  The 
United  States  became  for  the  first  time  in  sincerity  and  ear- 
nestness, the  friend  and  ally  of  every  other  Republican  State  in 
America,  and  all  the  Republican  States  became  from  that  hour 
the  friends  and  allies  of  the  United  States.  This  alliance  com- 
manded respect  and  confidence  in  unexpected  quarters.  Switz- 
erland, Italy,  Russia,  North  Germany,  Turkey,  Egypt,  Mo- 
rocco, Siam,  and  China  became  the  friends  and  moral  allies  of 
the  American  Republics,  and  their  triumph  at  last  was  com- 
plete. The  United  States  were  restored,  and  Slavery  abolished 
there.  St.  Domingo  was  evacuated,  Peru  was  left  independ- 
ent, and  Mexico  resumed  her  noble  Republican  autonomy. 
For  the  heroes  who  led  Republican  forces  in  this  great  contest, 
Scott,  Grant,  Sherman,  McClellan,  Farragut,  and  so  many  oth- 
ers in  the  United  States ;  ^aragoza,  Diaz,  Arteaga,  Salazar,  I£s- 
cobedo  and  Corona  in  Mexico — for  the  statesmen  who  directed 
the  councils  of  the  nations  who  took  part  in  it,  Lincoln,  John- 
son, Stevens,  Stanton,  in  the  United  States — Juarez,  Lerdo, 
Iglesias  and  Romero  in  Mexico — Gortchacoff,  Bright,  Bismarck 
and  Napoleon  (Jerome)  in  Europe,  I  came  to  feel  and  acknowl- 
edge sentiments  of  gratitude,  of  respect  and  of  affection,  not  in- 
ferior in  force  to  those  of  fraternal  confidence  and  affection. 

This  is  the  manner,  Mr.  Lerdo,  by  which  you  have  won  me 
to  your  side  and  secured  my  ardent  wishes  for  your  future  pros- 
perity and  success  as  a  man,  a  minister  and  a  statesman.  If  I 
have  not  so  expressed  myself  heretofore,  since  my  arrival  in 
Mexico,  it  was  only  because  I  was  waiting  for  this  most  season- 
able occasion. 

The  two  great  demonstrations  in  honor  of  Mr.  Sew- 


278       GRAXD    BANQUET   AT   THE   PALACIO   NACIONAL. 

ard  iii  Mexico,  were  the  grand  banquet  at  the  PaLado 
National,  and  the  grand  ball  at  the  Teatro  Nacumal, 
which  concluded  the  festivities. 

The  banquet  took  place  on  the  night  of  Saturday, 
Dec.  27th,  in  the  hall — four  hundred  feet  in  length — at 
the  southern  end  of  which  Maximilian's  throne  once 
stood,  and  where  the  crimson  canopy  of  rich  silk  bro- 
cade which  surmounted  it  still  stands,  as  if  in  mockery 
of  the  past,  and  a  perpetual  sermon  on  the  vanity  of 
human  ambition.  As  if  to  add  point  to  the  lesson,  the 
sword  and  sceptre  of  Iturbide,  inclosed  in  a  frame 
and  covered  with  glass,  were  hanging  against  the  wall, 
right  above  the  chairs  occupied  by  the  Citizen  Presi- 
denty  Don  Benito  Juarez,  and  the  Ex-Premier  of  the 
United  State,  Wm.  H.  Seward. 

The  invitations  were  issued  by  "  El  Ministro  de  Re- 
Ittciones  Exterior  es"  Senor  Lerdo  de  Tejada,  in  the  name 
of  the  President  of  the  Republic,  and  in  honor  of  the 
Hon.  Wm.  H.  Seward. 

The  guests  were  received  in  the  great  drawing-rooms 
hung  with  crimson  satin  tapestry,  brought  over  and 
placed  there  by  Maximilian ;  and  the  kind,  amiable,  and 
accomplished  ladies  of  the  family  of  the  President,— 
though  not  participating  in  the  dinner,  as  no  ladies 
were  invited — were  in  attendance  t6  welcome  them. 

Four  hundred  guests,  including  all  the  prominent 
American  gentlemen  in  the  city,  the  sons-in-law  and 
staff  of  the  President,  all  the  Cabinet,  and  the  princi- 
pal officers  and  heads  of  departments  of  the  Govern- 
ment, with  many  members  of  Congress — among  them 
some  of  the  most  distinguished  leaders  of  the  opposi- 
tion— sat  down  at  the  table  at  7  P.  M. 

The  scene,  when  all  the  guests  were  seated  at  'the  ta- 


AN    ERA  OF    GOOD    FEELING.  279 

ble  in  the  brilliantly  lighted  hall,  was  one  such  as  is 
seldom  witnessed  on  our  continent,  and  never  twice  in  a 
life-time.  Juarez  and  Seward  sat  together,  and  the 
guests,  Mexicans  and  Americans,  were  so  distributed 
through  the  hall  as  to  produce  the  most  striking  con- 
trasts. Confederate  officers,  in  exile,  sat  side  by  side 
and  drank  with  veterans  of  the  army  of  the  Union,  and 
next  them,  officers  of  the  army  of  the  Republic  of  Mex- 
ico, with  their  breasts  covered  with  decorations  com- 
memorative of  gallant  deeds  performed  in  the  late  war, 
or  even  as  far  back  as  the  war  between  the  United 
States  and  Mexico  in  1846 — 7.  Members  of  the  Cabi- 
net of  President  Juarez  sat  by  the  side  of  the  most  vi- 
olent leaders  of  the  opposition,  and  for  the  time,  at 
least,  all  hostility  and  ill-feeling  appeared  to  be  laid 
aside,  out  of  mutual  good- will  and  respect  for  the  guest 
of  the  nation. 

Of  the  four  hundred  guests  present,  about  three  hun- 
dred appeared  to  have  come  charged  with  speeches  and 
"  brindisis"  the  military  men  forming  the  exceptional 
one  hundred.  Conspicuous  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Pres- 
ident was  General  Mejia,  Minister  of  War,  in  his  gor- 
geous uniform  of  Commander-in-Chief,  and  directly  op- 
posite him  I  noticed  Col.  Geo.  M.  Green,  late  Comman- 
der of  the  American  Legion  of  Honor,  wearing  the 
decoration  for  the  highest  order  of  merit  for  services 
rendered  in  the  war  against  the  Empire. 

The  hall,  though  of  immense  length,  is  quite  dispro- 
portionately narrow,  so  that  but  one  table  was  set 
through  its  entire  length.  This  naturally  made  it  im- 
possible for  the  after-dinner  speakers  to  be  heard  at 
either  end  of  the  table,  and  led  to  much  confusion  late 
in  the  evening. 


280  SPEECHES,    MUSIC,    AND    CONFUSION. 

The  President,  staff  and  Cabinet,  with  Mr.  Seward 
and  party,  occupied  the  center.  The  northern  end  of 
the  hall  was  occupied  by  a  stage,  on  which  the  grand 
band  was  placed,  and  a  company  of  some  fifty  profes- 
sional and  amateur  vocalists  rendered  from  time  to 
time  the  national  songs  of  Mexico  and  the  United 
States,  and  choice  selections  from  the  most  popular  op- 
eras. The  table  was  furnished  sumptuously  with 
French  porcelain  and  plate :  the  great  epergne  in  the 
center  before  President  Juarez  was  a  master-piece  of 
art  of  immense  value,  being  of  pure  silver,  and  all  the 
figures  and  statuettes  of  solid  metal — a  relic  of  the  de- 
funct Empire. 

Whe»  the  speaking  commenced  at  about  9  o'clock — it 
lasted  until  midnight — the  center  of  attraction  was,  of 
course,  at  the  middle  of  the  table,  but  as  all  could 
not  hear,  another  set  of  speakers  were  hard  at  work 
at  each  end  of  the  hall,  and  the  band  (being  unable 
to  tell  who  was  speaking  and  who  was  not,)  chipped 
in  from  time  to  time  with  music  at  the  most 
inappropriate  moment,  thus  adding  to  the  confu- 
sion, and-  making  it  almost  impossible  for  any  one 
speaker  to  be  heard  a  dozen  yards  away.  Neverthe- 
less, the  best  possible  feeling  prevailed ;  all  was  excite- 
ment and  enthusiasm,  but  there  was  no  wilful  disorder, 
and  each  seemed  to  be  determined  to  do  his  utmost  to 
honor  the  guest  of  the  evening. 

As  most  of  the  speeches  were  in  Spanish,  and  the 
whole  would  fill  a  volume  like  this  to  the  exclusion  of 
all  other  matter,  I  can  only  give  a  few  of  the  most  im- 
portant. 

The  citizen  President  Juarez  was,  of  course,  the  first 
speaker.  In  a  brief,  but  well  considered  and  well  de- 
livered address,  he  welcomed  Mr.  Seward  as  the  na- 


ADDRESS    OF   PRESIDENT   JUAREZ.  281 

tion's  guest,  and  paid  a  high  and  eloquent  tribute  to 
the  American  people  and  Government  for  their  sympa 
thy  and  moral  and  material  support,  in  the  trying  hours 
of  the  foreign  invasion  of  Mexico,  at  the  same  time 
briefly  recounting  the  services  rendered  by  Mr.  Seward 
himself.  * 

After  the  band  had  played  the  "  Star  Spangled  Ban- 
ner," at  the  conclusion  of  the  remarks  of  President  Ju- 
arez, Minister  Nelson  made  the  following  address : 

MK.  PRESIDENT,  MR.  SEWARD  AND  GENTLEMEN  :  My  great- 
est regret  in  attempting  to  respond  to  the  sentiment  just  an- 
nounced by  His  Excellency  the  President  of  the  Bepublic,  arises 
from  the  fact  that  I  do  not  speak  the  Spanish  language  with  fa- 
cility, and  that  speaking  my  own  language,  I  cannot  be  under- 
stood by  a  large  number  of  the  gentlemen  present.  I  will 
therefore  be  brief.  As  the  humble  representative  of  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States,  I  return  my  most  cordial  thanks 
for  the  toast  in  honor  of  that  illustrious  soldier  and  patriot  who 
presides  over  the  destinies  of  that  Republic,  and  who,  without 
previous  experience  as  a  statesman,  is  so  discharging  the  duties 
of  his  great  office  as  to  command  the  confidence  of  a  large  major- 
ity of  his  countrymen  and  the  respect  of  the  civilized  world. 
No  man  living  more  earnestly  desires  the  peace,  happiness,  and 
prosperity  of  Mexico  than  the  President  of  the  United  States. 
At  the  head  of  our  armies  he  fought  not  only  for  the  preserva- 
tion of  the  American  Union,  but  also  for  the  American  system 
of  Government.  Our  victories  were,  therefore,  your  victories — 
our  defeats  your  defeats.  The  success  of  the  rebellion,  would 
in  my  opinion,  have  resulted  in  the  utter  destruction  of  popu- 
lar governments  and  republican  institutions,  there,  here,  and 
everywhere.  'No  wonder  then,  that  the  patriots  of  Mexico  and 
of  all  Spanish  America — no  wonder  that  people  of  every  na- 
tion, kindred,  and  tongue,  and  representing  every  system  of 
government — watched  and  waited  with  the  most  intense  solici- 
tude, the  wavering  fortunes  of  the  conflict.  The  world  com- 


282  ADDRESS    OF    U.    S.    MINISTER    NELSON. 

prehended  the  grandeur  and  magnitude  of  the  issues  involved. 
It  was  not,  as  was  alleged  by  certain  European  statesmen,  a  con- 
test for  power  on  the  one  hand,  and  independence  on  the  other ; 
the  war  was  not  waged  merely  to  crush  a  gigantic  insurrection, 
or  merely  to  destroy  the  curse  of  human  slavery — but  the  Un- 
ion armies  were  also  fighting  for  those  great  principles  which  lie 
at  the  foundation  of  all  free  governments.  The  result  of  that 
contest,  encouraged  and  strengthened  republican  governments, 
and  the  grandest  problem  that  was  ever  submitted  to  human 
society,  was  solved — whether  mankind  could  be  trusted  with  a 
purely  popular  government.  The  victorious  sword  of  Grant, 
and  the  earnest  patriotism  of  the  immortal  Lincoln,  aided 
by  the  wise  statesmanship  of  Seward,  settled  these  questions 
finally,  and  forever.  The  problem  is  solved.  Republican  gov- 
ernments "can  successfully  resist  the  most  powerful  combina- 
tions, and  do  possess  more  energy,  strength,  and  recuperative 
power,  than  any  other  system. 

Another  question  was  settled — a  question  which  was  the  in- 
evitable corollary  of  that  war — I  mean  that  of  European  inter- 
vention in  American  affairs ;  and  it  was  decided,  that  European 
powers,  cannot  with  impunity  approach,  too  nearly,  the  ark  of 
American  liberties.  The  moral  aid  of  our  Government,  con- 
ducted and  directed  by  Mr.  Seward,  combined  with  the  patriot- 
ism of  your  soldiers  and  statesmen,  relieved  this  beautiful  coun- 
try from  foreign  domination.  Many  a  time  and  oft,  as  Mr.  Ro- 
mero can  testify,  did  General  Grant  manifest  his  warm  sympa- 
thy for  the  struggling  patriots  of  Mexico,  during  the  interven- 
tion ;  and  since  his  elevation  to  the  Presidency,  on  the  occasion 
of  the  official  presentation  of  the  distinguished  Minister  from 
this  Republic,  he  used  these  memorable  words  :  and  what 
President  Grant  says  I  need  hardly  add  he  means  : 

"  Your  previous  residence  in  the  United  States  has  made  you 
familiar  with  its  institutions  and  its  people,  and  must  have  sat- 
isfied you  that  its  Government  shares  the  views  of  the  Mexi- 
can statesmen  who  deem  a  Republic  the  form  of  government 
best  suited  to  develop  the  resources  of  that  country  and  to 
make  its  people  happy.  For  myself,  I  may  say,  it  is  not  neces- 


MR.    LERDO'S    RESPONSE.  283 

sary  for  me  to  proclaim,  that  my  sympathies  were  always  with 
those  struggling  to  maintain  the  Republic,  that  I  rejoiced  when 
the  evident  will  of  the  people  prevailed  in  their  success,  and  that 
they  have  now  my  best  wishes  in  their  labors  to  maintain  the 
integrity  of  their  country,  and  to  develop  its  natural  wealth. 
I  am  prepared  to  share  in  your  efforts  to  continue  and  increase 
the  cordial,  social,  industrial,  and  political  relation,  so  happily 
existing  between  these  two  Republics." 

It  is  the  desire  of  the  President  of  the  United  States  that 
Mexico  should  be,  and  forever  remain,  free,  sovereign,  and  inde- 
pendent ;  that  she  may  wisely  reap  the  fruits  of  her  victories ;  that 
she  may  pass  safely  through  every  ordeal  to  which  she  may  be 
subjected,  and  surmount  every  obstacle  in  the  pathway  of  her 
prosperity,  and  that  friendly  relations  between  our  respective 
Governments  and  people  may  be  perpetual. 

Gentlemen,  I  have  the  honor  to  propose  the  health  of  His 
Excellency,  the  President  of  Mexico,  and  the  peace,  happiness, 
and  prosperity  of  the  Republic. 

Lerdo  de  Tejada,  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations,  re- 
sponded to  Mr.  Nelson  in  an  eloquent  and  effective 
speech  in  Spanish.  Mr.  Lerdo' s  remarks  were  received 
with  loud  applause.  The  band  played  Yankee  Doodle, 
and  Mr.  Seward  then  arose  amid  the  acclamations  of 
the  entire  company,  and  addressed  the  guests  in  a  low 
but  distinct  and  emphatic  voice  as  follows : 

PRESIDENT  OF  THE  REPUBLIC  OP  MEXICO  AND  GENTLEMEN  : 
In  an  assembly  where  I  am  surrounded  by  four  hundred  Amer- 
ican patriots  and  statesmen,  the  time  which  can  be  allowed  to 
me  to  engage  attention  is  very  short,  and  the  words  which  I 
may  speak,  however  earnest,  ought  to  be  few  and  simple.  The 
sentiments  of  a  grateful  nature  no  less  than  profound  respect 
and  loyal  sympathies  for  this  august  assemblage,  oblige  me  to 
express  humble  thanks  from  the  depth  of  my  heart  for  this  hos- 
pitality and  friendly  welcome.  Pardon  me,  gentlemen,  for  say- 


284  MR.    SEWARDrS   ADDRESS. 

ing  that  these  grateful  emotions  have  brought  up  with  them  a 
somewhat  painful  apprehension  that  those  who  have  bestowed 
this  generous  welcome  upon  me,  may,  to  patriots  of  a  less  con- 
fiding disposition,  seem  to  have  incurred  the  fault  of  forgetting 
the  interests  of  their  own  country,  in  extending  their  hospital- 
ity to  a  stranger.  I  have  been  accustomed  to  study  and  con- 
template the  commerce  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts  of 
the  United  States,  the  teeming  wealth  of  the  Mississippi  Val- 
ley and  the  golden  treasures  of  'the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  and,  I  believe,  without  having  awakened  a  sus- 
picion of  personal  cupidity.  I  do  not  think  it  necessary,  there- 
fore, to  disclaim  that  unworthy  motive  for  my  visit  here,  when, 
for  the  first  time,  standing  among  the  mines  of  Guanajuato, 
Potosi,  and  Real  del  Monte,  and  contemplating  with  wonder 
and  admiration  the  grains,  and  fruits,  and  flowers  of  temperate 
though  tropical  Mexico.  As  little,  perhaps,  need  I  disclaim 
common  individual  ambition  as  a  motive  of  my  visit  to  Mex- 
ico. Certainly,  I  ought  to  know  now,  if  I  have  never  known 
before,  that  the  people  of  Mexico  wisely  reserve  political  places 
and  honors  not  for  foreign  adventurers,  but  for  their  own  loyal 
and  patriotic  citizens. 

But  what  shall  be  said  of  the  ambition  of  the  United  States, 
and  of  my  supposed  share  in  that  ambition  ?  Certainly,  only 
this  need  be  said,  that  while  that  ambition  is  always  less  than  I 
would  inspire  my  Government  with,  I  am  neither  its  agent  nor 
in  any  sense  its  representative.  But  what  shall  be  said  of  the 
ambition  of  the  United  States  as  a  nation,  and  of  my  own  com- 
plicity therewith  ?  On  this  point  I  answer  with  a  full  and 
frank  confession.  The  people  of  the  United  States,  by  an  in- 
stinct which  is  a  peculiar  gift  of  Providence  to  nations,  have  com- 
prehended better  than  even  their  government  has  ever  yet  done, 
the  benignant  destinies  of  the  American  Continent  and  their 
own  responsibility  in  that  important  matter.  They  know  and 
see  clearly,  that  although  the  colonization,  and  initiation  of  civ- 
ilization in  all  parts  of  this  continent  was  assigned  to  Euro- 
pean monarchical  States,  yet  that  in  perfecting  society  and  civi- 
lization here,  every  part  of  the  continent  must  sooner  or  later 


ME.  SE WARD'S  ADDKESS.  285 

be  made  entirely  independent  of  all  foreign  control,  and  of 
every  form  of  imperial  or  despotic  power — the  sooner  the  bet- 
ter. Universally  imbued  with  this  lofty  and  magnanimous 
sentiment,  the  people  of  the  United  States  have  opened  their 
broad  territories  from  ocean  to  ocean,  and  from  the  lakes  to  the 
gulf,  freely  to  the  downtrodden  and  oppressed  of  all  nations, 
as  a  republican  asylum.  In  their  Constitution  they  have  writ- 
ten with  equal  unanimity  and  zeal,  the  declaration  that  to 
all  who  shall  come  within  that  asylum  they  guarantee  that 
they  shall  be  forever  governed  only  by  republican  institutions. 
This  noble  guarantee  extends  in  spirit,  in  policy,  and  in  eifect 
to  all  other  nations  in  the  American  Hemisphere,  so  far  as  may 
depend  on  moral  influences,  which  in  the  cause  of  political  truth 
are  always  more  effective  than  arms.  Some  of  those  nations 
are  communities  near  the  United  States,  which,  while  they  are 
animated  like  the  American  people,  with  a  desire  for  repub- 
lican institutions,  and  will  not  willingly  submit  to  any  other, 
are  yet  by  reason  of  insufficient  territory,  imperfect  develop- 
ment, colonial  demoralization,  or  other  causes,  incapable  of  in- 
dependently sustaining  them.  To  these,  as  in  the  case  of  the 
ancient  Louisiana,  Florida,  Alaska,  St.  Domingo  and  St. 
Thomas,  the  people  of  the  United  States  offer  incorporation 
into  the  United  States,  with  their  own  free  consent,  without 
conquest,  and  when  they  are  fully  prepared  for  that  important 
change.  Other  nations  on  the  continent,  liberally  endowed 
with  the  elements  and  virtues  of  national  independence,  pros- 
perity, and  aggrandizement,  more  matured  and  self-reliant, 
cherishing  the  same  enlightened  and  intense  desire  for  republi- 
can institutions,  have  nobly  assumed  the  position  and  exercised 
the  powers  of  exclusive  sovereignty.  Of  this  class  are  Mexico 
— older  as  a  nation,  but  newer  as  a  republic  than  the  United 
States — Venezuela,  and  Colombia,  the  Central  American  States, 
Peru,  the  Argentine  Republic,  and  Chili.  These  republics 
have  thus  become,  and  are  gladly  recognized  by  the  people  of 
the  United  States  with  all  their  just  claims  and  pretentious  of 
separate  sovereignty,  fraternal  republics  and  political  allies. 
To  the  people  of  the  United  States  the  universal  acceptance  of 


286  MR.  SE WARD'S  ADDRESS. 

republicanism  is  necessary,  and  happily  it  is  no  less  necessary 
for  every  nation  and  people  on  the  continent.  "Who  will  show 
me  how  republicanism  can  be  extended  over  the  continent  upon 
any  other  principle  or  under  any  other  system  than  these  ?  If 
I  forbear  from  dilating  upon  the  influence  which  North  America 
and  South  America  with  all  their  archipelagoes  firmly  estab- 
lished and  fraternally  living  under,  republican  institutions,  must 
put  forth  and  will  put  forth  in  advancing  civilization  through, 
out  the  world,  it  is  because  I  have  already  said  enough  to  show 
that  loyalty  and  patriotism  on  the  part  of  a  citizen  of  one 
American  Republic  is,  in  my  judgment,  not  only  consistent  but 
congenial  with  the  best  wishes  for  the  welfare,  prosperity  and 
happiness  of  all  other  American  Republics. 

I  give  you,  gentlemen,  the  health  of  President  Benito  Ju- 
arez— a  name  indissolubly  associated  with  the  names  of  Presi- 
dents Lincoln,  Bolivar,  and  Washington,  in  the  heroic  history 
of  Republicanism  in  America. 

Mr.  Seward's  remarks  were  translated  into  Spanish, 
and  reported  by  Senor  Iglesias,  Minister  of  Justice, 
and  thus  rendered,  were  loudly  and  emphatically  ap- 
plauded by  Mexicans  of  all  shades  of  political  opinion 
present. 

Senor  Don  Valentine  Baz,  Vice  President  of  Con- 
gress, followed  with,  a  brief  speech,  closing  with  a 
toast,  "  To  the  Congress  of  the  United  States  of  North 
America."  To  this  Mr.  Seward  responded  as  follows : 

The  distinguished  Mexican  speaker  proposed  a  sentiment  in 
honor  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States.  Being  the  only  per- 
son present  who  has  been  a  member  of  that  august  body,  I  am 
expected  to  respond.  Two  things  are  necessary  in  every  repub- 
lic ;  one  is  a  President,  the  other  is  a  Congress.  The  safety  of 
the  State  is  the  proper  care  of  the  President ;  the  liberty  of  the 
people  is  the  proper  care  of  the  Congress.  May  God  now  and 


ALTAMIKANO,    THE    INDIAN    OEATOK. 


287 


always  endow  all  Presidents  and  all  Congresses  with  the  wis- 
dom necessary  for  the  discharge  of  their  supreme  responsibili- 
ties. 

Senor  Savadera,  Minister  of  Gubernacion,  spoke 
next,  and  Deputado  Rojo  followed  him,  each  giving,  as 
did  all  the  subsequent  speakers,  a  sentiment  in  honor 
of  Mr.  Seward  and  the  "  moral  alliance  of  the  Ameri- 
can Republics  for  the  defence  of  republican  institutions 
against  foreign  aggression." 

Then  came  the  great  speech  of  the  evening — that  of 
the  homeliest  and  cleverest  orator  in  Mexico,  the  Indian 
scholar,  radical  republican, 
brave  soldier,  and  anti- 
Church  statesman,  Ignacio 
M.  Altamirano  of  Guer- 
rero. This  singular  rep- 
resentative man  of  the 
aboriginal  race  of  Mexico 
has  nothing  in  his  personal 
appearance  to  attract  the 
attention  of  the  casual  ob- 
server, but  the  magical 
effect  of  his  impassioned 
eloquence  is  beyond  description,  and  one  must  see  and 
listen  to  him  to  comprehend  it. 

Born  of  Aztec  parents  in  the  State  of  Michoacan,  and 
reared  in  the  strict  observance  of  the  Catholic  faith, 
this  man  has  educated  himself  up  to  a  standard  seldom 
attained  in  the  United  States,  or  Europe,  and  learned 
to  hate  the  priesthood  who  for  centuries  held  in  abject 
slavery  the  consciences  and  minds  of  millions  of  his 
race,  with  a  hatred  which  finds  expression  in  such  lan- 


IGNACIO  M.  ALTAMIEANO. 


288  PLAIN    TALK   TO    CHURCH    DIGNITARIES. 

guage  as  that  which  he  made  use  of  a  year  or  two  since, 
when  he  shook  his  finger  at  the  assembled  dignitaries 
of  the  Church,  and  exclaimed  with  an  emphasis  and 
earnestness  which  had  in  it  the  spirit  of  prophecy : 

"  Look  you,  sirs !  That  henceforth  you  walk  in  the 
strait  and  narrow  way,  turning  neither  to  the  right  nor 
to  the  left,  as  becomes  the  followers  of  the  meek  and 
lowly  Jesus  of  Nazareth,  or  prepare  for  the  inevitable 
day,  in  which  the  long  suffering  people  of  Mexico,  shall 
arise  in  their  might,  level  your  proud  temples  to  the 
dust,  and  scatter  the  fragments  of  your  pagan  idols  to 
the  winds ! " 

Of  his  speech  on  this  occasion  I  give  a  very  hasty 
translation,  made  by  Senor  Don  Miguel  Pedrorena,  of 
San  Francisco,  premising  however,  that  no  translation 
however  perfect,  can  give  a  clear  idea  of  the  torrent  of 
fiery  eloquence  which  flows  from  his  lips  when  he  warms 
to  his  subject.  As  he  proceeded  aM  the  guests  left 
their  seats,  and  stood  around  the  chair  of  the  President 
to  listen  in  silence  only  broken  from  time  to  time  by 
enthusiastic  applause,  in  which  all  joined. 

GENTLEMEN  : — The  Minister  of  one  of  the  republics  of  South 
America,  perhaps  the  most  flourishing,  said,  a  few  years  ago, 
referring  to  the  honors  that  had  been  tendered  by  his  country 
to  the  illustrious  Cameron  and  S.  Martin,  that  "  Those  nations 
only  that  are  grateful,  deserve  to  be  assisted." 

A  holy  maxim,  that  has  been  stamped  forever  in  the  conscience 
of  the  people,  the  observance  of  which  has  raised  them  to  the 
highest  pinnacle  of  power,  and  the  forgetfulness  of  which 
has  dragged  to  degradation  the  most  famous  and  powerful  em- 
pires. The  republics  of  this  new  Continent  should  always  keep 
in  their  minds  this  maxim,  that  we  may  never  forget  it,  if  we 
wish  to  see  America  occupy  that  position  that  has  been  assigned 


ALTAMIKANO's    ADDRESS.  289 

to  it  by  the  laws  of  civilization,  that  is  to  say,  the  first  in  the 
world.  Gentlemen,  the  motive  that  to-day  unites  us  in  this 
banquet,  is  one  of  friendship  toward  our  venerable  guest. 

This  banquet  is  not  to  the  foreign  monarch,  who,  leaving  his 
throne  for  a  few  days  to  travel  among  us,  is  received  with  offi- 
cial ovations ;  nor  to  the  fortunate  conqueror,  whom  we  see  in  our 
banquet,  raising  the  cup  to  his  lips  with  a  bloody  hand,  a  ban- 
quet offered  through  fear ;  but  it  is  the  apostle  of  human  dig- 
nity and  honor,  the  defender  of  the  dignity  of  America,  and  one 
of  the  most  venerable  patriarchs  of  liberty,  whom  we  welcome 
in  our  midst,  and  in  honor  of  whom  we  decorate  with  flowers 
our  Mexican  homes,  and  tender  to  him  our  sympathies  and  ad- 
miration. See  him  !  you  see  on  his  forehead  no  crown ;  but 
those  venerable  locks,  those  white  locks  which  show  his  age — 
what  an  age  !  that  shows  us  all  that  those  years  have  been  con- 
secrated to  the  service  of  his  country,  consecrated  for  the  good 
of  all. 

I  forget,  seeing  Mr.  "Wm.  H.  Seward  among  us,  the  great 
statesman  of  the  age,  the  premier  of  the  United  States.  I  see 
and  only  wish  to  see,  in  him,  the  friend  of  humanity,  the  enemy 
of  slavery,  and  the  liberator  of  the  unhappy  negro.  Slavery ! 
The  infamous  spot  of  the  old  world,  the  legacy  left  us  by  the 
past  century,  like  a  hereditary  infirmity  to  modern  civilization  ! 
That  slavery  which  the  Greek  and  Roman  republics  were  not 
great  enough  to  blot  out  from  their  codes  of  laws  ;  that  the  bar- 
barians of  the  middle  ages  took  up  with  pleasure,  as  an  auxil- 
iary to  their  brute  force ;  that  slavery  that  even  Christianity  was 
unable  to  destroy ;  there  was  a  time  when  the  whole  world 
seemed  to  believe  that  slavery  was  one  of  the  precepts  of  Divine 
rights.  That  the  Pagan  world  should  have  allowed  and  sup- 
ported this  servitude,  was  not  strange,  but  that  the  Christian 
world  should  tolerate  it  was  atrocious. 

But  the  time  came  when  this  should  have  a  change.  The 
Democracy  of  the  United  States,  that  ought  to  have  been  the 
strongest  party  in  existence,  was  born  with  this  hereditary  dis- 
ease of  slavery.  The  English  Puritans  and  the  Quaker  Wm. 
Penn,  had  tried  to  form  in  this  virgin  country,  (America)  an 
19 


290  ALTAMIRANO'S    ADDRESS. 

evangelical  society  ;  but  shortly  after  the  arrival  of  the  Puritans 
at  the  traditional  rock,  a  ship  from  Holland  put  ashore  on  the 
borders  of  the  James,  the  first  group  of  slaves  landed  in  the 
United  States.  From  this  on,  the  slave  trade  was  carried  on 
with  force.  Even  Washington  did  not  dare  to  interfere  with 
this  subject.  And  here  let  me  say,  for  the  honor  of  the  fathers 
of  Mexican  independence,  that  they  inscribed  on  their  banners 
in  1810,  the  words  "  Abolition  of  Slavery." 

But  some  few  in  the  United  States  thought,  and  justly,  that 
liberty  was  dishonored  there  by  the  existence  of  slavery. 
Among  these  could  be  found  the  Hon.  Wm.  H.  Seward.  Not 
satisfied  with  the  idea,  they  set  their  shoulders  to  the  gigantic 
task  of  washing  away  the  dark  cloud  that  obscured  the  stars  and 
stripes  of  their  noble  flag.  Gigantic  task,  I  say,  that  threatened 
to  annihilate  those  that  should  attempt  it.  John  Brown  raised 
the  flag,  and  marched  to  martyrdom.  Then  two  men  appeared 
to  whom  power  offered  an  opportunity  to  realize  their  wishes. 

Abraham  Lincoln  and  Wm.  H.  Seward  were  competitors  for 
the  Presidency  of  the  Kepublic.  The  first  being  the  choice  of 
the  people,  he  immediately  called  to  Mr.  Seward  to  stand  by 
him  in  his  work,  and  both  together  triumphed  over  their 
enemies. 

The  Emancipation  decree  was  proclaimed  on  the  twenty-sec- 
ond of  September,  1862.  You  all  know  the  rest.  The  most 
bloody  civil  war  that  has  ever  been  witnessed,  agitated  that 
country  with  all  its  horrors,  but  Divine  Providence — always 
just — put  an  end  to  it,  giving  the  victory  to  the  humane  cause 
of  the  North.  The  thunderbolt  fell,  the  heavens  became  serene, 
the  dead  were  taken  up  from  the  battle-fields,  the  blood  was 
washed  away,  and  under  the  splendor  of  the  rainbow  appeared 
the  slaves,  with  their  chains  broken  asunder,  and  their  foreheads 
illuminated  with  the  sun  of  equality.  The  American  flag  now 
flies  before  the  whole  world  free  of  stain,  saying  to  the  nations 
of  the  world,  "  The  Liberty  of  America  raises  itself  devoid  of 
reproach."  Such  is  the  work  done  by  these  apostles  of  Frater- 
nity, whom  not  even  the  crown  of  martyrdom  has  failed  to 
visit !  The  venerable  William  H.  Seward  is  one  of  these  apos- 


TRIBUTE   TO   THE   UNITED    STATES   PEESS.  291 

ties.  His  heart,  his  thoughts,  his  whole  life,  have  been  con- 
sumed in  the  task  that  gave  for  a  result,  victory.  How  can  we 
pay  the  homage  due  to  his  virtue  ?  Gentlemen,  in  honor  of 
avenged  humanity,  let  us  drink  to  the  illustrious  American, 
William  H.  Seward,  who  honors  mankind  ! 

Speeches  and  sentiments  then  followed  thick  and  fast. 
Among  the  speakers  were  Senor  Sierra,  M.  0.,  Senor 
Santa  Cilia,  son-in-law  to  President  Juarez,  Col.  Alcer- 
raca,  Senor  D.  D.  Alandrina,  Senor  Alcala,  Deputy 
from  Yucatan,  Senor  Arias,  from  the  State  Department, 
Senor  Garcia  Flores,  Senor  Urquida  Branco,  Deputy 
from  Chihuahua,  Gen.  Zerega,  one  of  the  ablest  speak- 
ers in  the  country,  Senor  Lafraga,  Judge  of  the  Supreme 
Court,  Senor  Rojo,  and  General  Landman. 

Senor  Herrera,  M.  C.  made  an  excellent  speech  in 
acknowledgment  of  the  services  rendered  to  the  cause 
of  liberty  in  both  republics  by  the  press  of  the 
United  States.  He  paid  the  only  just  and  comprehen- 
sive tribute  to  the  power  of  the  press,  which  I  heard  in 
Mexico,  and  gave  as  a  sentiment :  "  The  Press  of  the 
United  States  of  America,"  calling  on  the  writer  to 
respond.  My  readers  will,  I  trust,  pardon  me  for  the 
apparent  egotism  of  reporting  my  own  remarks  on  this 
occasion,  as  I  was  requested  to  do  so, — for  reasons  which 
can  hardly  fail  to  be  apparent, — by  the  party  whose 
wish  I  would  be  most  anxious  under  any  circumstances 
to  gratify : 

"  SENOR  PRESIDENT  AND  GENTLEMEN  :  For  perhaps  the  hun- 
dredth time  in  my  life,  probably  more  through  the  partiality  of 
my  friends  than  from  any  merit  of  my  own,  I  find  myself  call- 
ed upon  to  respond  to  the  sentiment  of  '  the  Press.' 


292  RESPONSE  BY  COL.  EVANS. 

Standing  before  men  whose  names  and  deeds  have  already 
passed  into  history  and  become  indissolubly  connected  with  the 
story  of  the  progress  of  mankind,  and  amid  scenes  around 
which  is  gathered  half  the  romance  of  the  world's  history,  I 
cannot  but  be  proud  beyond  measure,  to  be  regarded  as  even 
the  humblest  representative  of  that  mighty  institution  of  civili- 
zation, which  is  not  only  '  the  power  behind  the  throne,  but  a 
power  greater  than  the  throne  itself,  a  power  before  whose  irre- 
sistible attacks  all  the  thrones  of  the  Earth  are  crumhliiig  into 
dust  to-day. 

That  the  press  of  the  Unitecl  States  of  North  America,  and 
the  press  of  the  United  States  of  Mexico  may  henceforth  mani- 
fest the  spirit  of  mutual  forbearance  and  conciliation,  and  cul- 
tivate that  spirit  of  fraternal  kindness  so  necessary  for  the  pres- 
ervation of  the  peace,  internal  and  external,  of  the  two  Repub- 
lics, and  ensure  their  progress,  development  and  enlightenment, 
is,  I  believe,  the  sincere  wish  of  every  honorable  journalist  in 
America  to-day ;  it  certainly  is  my  own. 

Thus  much  for  the  press.  And  now  a  word  on  a  subject 
still  nearer  and  dearer  to  my  heart. 

Mexico  !  the  valor  of  your  sons  has  been  proven  on  a  hun- 
dred well  fought  battle  fields  and  thoir  patriotism  there  is  now, 
thank  God,  none  to  gainsay.  Happy  indeed  am  I  to  see 
around  me  to  night  some  of  the  brave  sons  of  my  own  proud 
city  by  the  Sunset  Sea,  who  have  fought  gallantly  side  by  side 
with  the  sons  of  Mexico,  for  the  triumph  of  Republican  insti- 
tutions. 

Mexico !  The  sun  of  your  tropic  clime  is  only  less  warm 
than  the  hearts  of  your  children,  and  the  flowers  of  your  fields 
only  less  beautiful  than  the  daughters  of  your  land,  whom  I 
have  known  and  loved  and  honored  long  and  well. 

But  mightier  far  than  the  power  of  the  press,  grander  than 
the  courage  of  the  soldier,  nobler  than  the  devotion  of  the  pa- 
triot, more  beautiful  than  aH  the  flowers  of  the  valley,  are  the 
memories,  sweet  and  tender,  and  holy,  which  cluster  around  the 
sacred  name  of  '  Mother.' 

Gentlemen:    the    good    son  honors  his   mother;    he   who 


AN   IMPEO VISED   POEM.  293 

honors  his  mother,  will  honor  his  country.  For  the  honor  of 
your  country  and  of  mine,  let  me  ask  you  to  drink  with  me  to 
the  health  of  ;  the  Mothers  of  Mexico,'  so  nobly  represented  in 
the  person  of  the  ever  respected  wife  of  your  Citizen  President 
Benito  Juarez." 


Mr.  Iglesias  having  passed  many  high  compliments 
upon  the  King  of  Prussia,  and  the  North  German  Con- 
federation, Mr.  Schlozer  responded ;  his  speech  being  in 
French,  was  understood  by  most  of  his  Mexican  hear- 
ers, and  was  greatly  applauded. 

No  Mexican  banquet  is  complete  without  its  poem, 
and  on  this  occasion,  Mr.  Justo  Sierra  composed  at  the 
table,  and  immediately  read,  amid  great  applause,  the 
following,  which  I  give  as  a  fair  sample  of  what  the 
improvisadores,  who  abound  among  all  classes  of  the 
people,  are  capable  of  doing  on  the  moment.  It  is  im- 
possible to  translate  it  into  English,  without  utterly 
spoiling  it. 

"  Salud  a  la  immortal,  salud  y  gloria 
Al  arco  de  la  alianza  americana 
Que  esculpiera    en  el  bronce  de  la  historia 
El  credo  de  la  fe  republicana. 
Salud  a  la  que  un  dia 
En  el  campo  broto  de  la  conciencia, 
Y  sacudiendo  la  Bretana  ropa 
Anadio  al  diccionario  de  la  Europa 
Una  palabra  nueva :  '  independencia,' 
A  la  immortal  que  removiendo  el  seno 
Del  nuevo  Continente, 
Serena  y  sin  encono 
Descorrio  sus  immensos  pabellonee 
Y  alii  sento  al  trabajo  sobre  un  trono 
Y  alii  se  hizo  adorar  de  las  naciones. 


294:  SOUVENIRS    OF  THE   BANQUET. 

Hurra,  salud  a  la  divina  madre 

Que  en  su  mente  sublime  engendro  altiva 

La  gran  locomotiva, 

El  Mesias  de  fierro,  el  gigantesco 

Arado,  en  cuyo  surco  brota  inmensa 

La  cosecha  sagrada  de  los  libres, 

Y  abandonando  el  fatigadp  suelo 

Lanza  espirales  de  humo,  en  donde  pura 

La  oracion  del  trabajo  sube  al  cielo. 

En  el  zodiaco  augusto  de  los  tiempos 

Mantendra  Dios  con  su  mirada  austera 

La  gran  constelacion  donde  fulgura 

La  luz  continental  de  su  bandera; 

Y  el  dia  en  que  se  escondan  para  siempre 

Eomas  y  reyes,  dulce  y  apacible 

Del  hurra  de  los  pueblos  se  desprenda 

Recbazando  el  cortejo  funerario 

La  libertad,  lucero  en  el  Calvario 

Y  sol  en  la  conciencia  de  \»s  siglos." 

The  banquet  ended  at  midnight,  the  guests  of  the 
opposite  nationalities  taking  the  little  flags  of  Mexico 
and  the  United  States,  which  adorned  the  table,  away 
with  them  as  souvenirs. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

CONTINUATION  OF  THE  FESTIVITIES. 

Monday,  the  6th  of  December,  the  Seward  party, 
at  the  invitation  of  Francisco  Foster,  Miguel  Pedro- 
reno,  Major  Hoyt  and  Mr.  Toler  of  California,  started  at 
10  A.  M.,  from  the  Paseo  de  la  Vija,  in  company  with  the 
family  of  President  Juarez,  Mrs.  Romero  and  Mrs.  Al- 
len, Mr.  and  Mrs.  Skelton,  Doctor  Manfred  and  daugh- 
ter, Col.  Geo.  M.  Green,  Gen.  Slaughter,  Major  Clarke, 
Sen  or  Antonio  Mancillas  and  wife,  Senorita  Dolores 
Mejia,  and  others,  on  a  boat  excursion  up  the  Grand 
Canal  towards  Lake  Chalco. 

The  party  occupied  five  boats,  the  musicians  another, 
and  the  wines  and  provisions  in  charge  of  the  servants, 
a  seventh.  Each  boat  was  about  twenty  feet  in  length, 
six  or  seven  broad,  and  flat-bottomed.  Two  stout  boat- 
men in  each  boat  poled  the  flotilla  up  the  canal  against 
the  strong  current,  which  comes  down  from  Lake  Chal- 
co, into  Lake  Tezcoco,  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  per 
hour. 

We  passed  the  newly  finished  monument  to  the 
memory  of  Guatamozin,  on  the  spot  where  that  mon- 
arch made  his  final  stand  against  Cortez,  was  defeated, 
and  made  prisoner — the  tree  at  the  foot  of  which  he  was 
roasted  by  the  Spaniards  to  make  him  reveal  his  treas- 
ures, still  blackened  by  the  fire,  can  be  seen  to-day,  at 
Chapultepec — and  for  twelve  miles  through  the  famous 
"floating  gardens  of  Mexico."  These  gardens  are  all 


296  A    SMALL    WATER-PABTY. 

stationary  now,  or  at  least,  all  those  along  the  banks  of 
the  canal,  having  been  anchored  down  by  cotton-wood 
trees  planted  along  their  edges,  which  taking  deep  root, 
have  fixed  their  hold  firmly  in  the  earth  below  the  wa- 
ter. They  rise,  at  most,  but  two  or  three  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  water,  and  are  in  the  form  of  oblong 
squares,  and  perfectly  level.  Every  description  of  gar- 
den vegetables,  corn,  etc.,  etc.,  grow  finely  on  these 
marsh  gardens,  many  of  which  are  fringed  with  tall 
cane,  and  most  of  them  are  highly  cultivated.  Hun- 
dreds of  boats,  loaded  with  "  produce,"  were  met  com- 
ing down  the  canal,  and  others  conveying  passengers, 
or  loaded  with  stable  manure  from  the  city,  being  car- 
ried out  to  the  gardens,  were  seen  at  every  point.  There 
were  also  many  little  canoes,  each  about  twelve  feet 
long,  and  two  feet  wide,  hollowed  from  the  trunk  of  a 
single  tree,  in  which  stalwart  Indians  were  poling  their 
families  up  and  down  the  canal. 

A  detachment  of  cavalry  galloped  along  the  banks 
as  the  flotilla  moved  up  the  canal,  to  guard  it  against  a 
possible  attack.  It  was  a  curious  sight  to  see  these 
bronze-hued  soldiers  of  the  Aztec  blood  guarding  a  party 
of  another  race,  galloping  across  the  bridge  which  Cor- 
tez  seized  and  held  as  his  first  point  of  vantage  against 
the  city,  which  their  ancestors  defended  with  such 
desperate  but  fruitless  valor  against  the  Spanish  inva- 
ders. 

Disembarking  for  a  few  minutes,  at  the  old,  ruinous 
town  of  Santa  Anita,  we  went  on  to  an  Indian  village 
with  an  unpronounceable  name,  and  a  tumble-down,  old 
church — in  which  the  priest  was  hearing  confessions  from 
kneeling  women,  on  both  sides  of  his  open  box  at  the 
same  time — and  there  disembarked  for  the  final  picnic. 


PICNIC   AT   AN   INDIAN   VILLAGE.  297 

All  the  way  up  the  canal  we  had  been  indulging  in 
Mexican  music,  French  and  Spanish  wines,  and  the  mu. 
sic  of  other  days,  alternately ;  the  Hymn  of  Zaragoza, 
John  Brown,  the  Danza,  Home  sweet  Home,  Star  Span- 
gled Banner,  American  cheers  and  the  popping  of  cham- 
pagne mingling  in  strange  confusion. 

A  bountiful  collation,  picnic  style,  was  spread  be- 
neath the  trees  and  discussed  with  keen  relish.  "We 
had  not  seen  a  single  unpleasant  day  during  the  month 
that  we  had  been  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  on 
this  occasion,  the  ladies,  clad  in  thin  stuffs  and  with- 
out shawls  or  capes,  danced  with  the  gentlemen  of  our 
party  in  the  open  air,  for  hours,  as  they  might  have 
done  in  New  York  in  June,  and  felt  no  subsequent  ill- 
effects  from  it. 

After  numerous  toasts,  and  a  very  facetious  speech 
by  Major  Hoyt  in  response  to  the  sentiment  of  "  the 
child,  above  all  others  of  which  I  am  proud — Califor- 
nia,"— by  Mr.  Seward,  the  guard  were  called  down  to 
finish  up  the  feast — abundance  of  everything  being 
left  for  them,  and  a  novel  scene  ensued.  Colonel  Green, 
between  every  speech  and  toast,  called  for  vivas  for 
every  distinguished  man  he  could  remember,  dead  or 
alive,  from  Geo.  Washington  to  Benito  Juarez,  Bona- 
parte to  Grant,  Hidalgo  to  General  Mejia,  and  the  de- 
fenders of  Thermopolye  to  General  Antonio  Caravajal, 
all  *of  which  were  given  by  the  excited,  swarthy  sol- 
diers with  equal  good  will.  An  officer  of  the  staff  of 
the  Governor  of  California  addressed  them  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  offered  a  toast  to  peace  and  lasting  friendship 
between  the  two  republics,  an  enthusiastic  soldier 
adding : 

"  Yes ;  and  wcj^Ul_j£Q..Qut  together  as  true  brothers 


298  A    RUNNING   SEA   FIGHT. 

and  whip  the  whole  old  world  into  republicanism !'' 
whereupon,  the  laughter  and  cheers  were  redoubled. 
Then  Antonio  Mancillas  made  a  rous  ing,  red  Republi- 
can speech,  going  even  to  the  extent  of  woman's  suf 
frage,  and  was  applauded  to  the  echo  at  every  sentence. 
Then  the  party  started  down  the  canal  on  the  return 
trip.  We  had  hardly  got  under  way  when  a  contest 
among  the  boatmen  as  to  who  should  get  ahead,  com- 
menced, and  the  excursionists,  from  plying  them  with 
dollars  to  induce  them  to  do  their  utmost,  soon  came  to 
join  in  themselves,  and  a  scene  of  indescribable  con- 
fusion and  excitement  took  place. 

The  moment  that  one  boat  attempted  to  pass  another, 
it  would  be  grappled  by  all  on  board  the  slower  craft, 
and  a  dead  lock  would  ensue.  Major  Hoyt,  on  the 
boat  in  which  were  Mr.  Seward  and  Mrs.  Juarez, 
clinched  with  a  gentleman,  whom  modesty  forbids  me 
to  name,  on  another,  alongside,  and  both,  falling,  strug- 
gled for  some  minutes,  the  contest  ending  in  the  gallant 
Major  being  drawn,  head-foremost,  into  our  boat,  and 
made  prisoner.  Dr.  Manfred,  holding  like  grim  death 
to  the  Major's  leg  to  prevent  his  being  captured,  was 
drawn  overboard,  and  then  pulled  out  of  the  water 
into  our  boat,  and  paroled  as  a  prisoner  of  war.  Then 
the  Seward  boat,  getting  a  little  ahead,  was  boarded  by 
Mr.  Foster,  who  pitched  one  of  the  boatmen  headlong 
into  the  canal ;  whereupon,  Col.  Green  went  over  and 
threw  both  of  their  boatmen,  heels-over-head,  into  the 
chilly  waters,  and  the  flotilla  came  to  a  stand-still. 

The  uproarious  laughter  of  the  ladies  as  they  cheered 
on  their  respective  champions,  testified  to  their  intense 
enjoyment  of  the  ludicrous  scene.  The  boatmen  who 
had  been  thrown  over,  were  compensated — amply  in 


CIKCUS    PERFORMANCES    AT   AN    OLD    CONVENT.          299 

their  estimation — by  a  present  of  a  dollar  a  piece,  and 
quiet  once  more  restored,  we  went  rapidly  back  to  the 
•city  which  we  reached  at  night-fall,  after  one  of  the 
pleasantest  days  we  enjoyed  in  Mexico. 

Among  the  minor  demonstrations  was  the  grand  fun- 
don  by  Bell  &  Buislay's  Circus  at  the  Circo  de  Charini  in 
the  old  Convent  of  San  Francisco.  Great  preparations 
had  been  made,  specially,  for  the  occasion,  and  the  Gov- 
ernment lent  a  military  band  and  a  regiment  of  its 
choicest  troops,  to  add  eclat  to  the  affair.  The  grand 
court-yard  of  the  convent  is  used  for  the  circus,  the  ring 
covering  the  spot  in  which  the  dead  of  centuries  lie 
buried,  and  the  corridors  rising  one  above  the  other, 
with  their  graceful  pillars  and  costly  ornamentation 
form  the  galleries,  which  are  divided  into  boxes.  What 
a  change  in  the  institutions  and  the  religious  sentiments 
of  this  once  bigoted  Catholic  people  this  indicates,  can 
be  readily  understood. 

Noticing  that  the  mochos  did  not  appear  to  be  there 
in  great  numbers,  I  asked  the  reason  of  a  common  me- 
chanic or  tradesman  of  some  kind  who  chanced  to  be 
near  me  at  the  moment.  His  reply : 

"Because  they  will  not  submit  to  see  the  burial 
ground  of  their  ancestors  desecrated  by  a  circus,"  con- 
tains more  of  bitterness,  satire,  and  hatred,  than  I  have 
ever  seen  before  in  a  single  sentence,  and  is  curiously 
illustrative  of  the  state  of  feeling  in  the  capital. 

The  vast  audience  arose  and  bowed,  en  masse,  as  Mr. 
Seward  entered,  and  the  troops  presented  arms,  while 
the  band  played  the  national  hymn.  The  performance, 
consisting  of  the  usual  ring  exhibition,  tableaux,  in- 
cluding one  representing  the  "  Moral  Alliance  of  the 
two  Republics,"  etc.,  etc.,  passed  off  well. 


300  GRAND    CLOSING    BALL    AND    BANQUET. 

There  was  also  a  " grand  funcion"  at — the  "  Teatro 
National"  at  which  an  opera  company  gave  the  Span, 
ish  version  of  "  Crispino  e  la  Comare  "  in  good  shape, 
thougli  the  fairy  was  dressed  in  deep  mourning ;  and  a 
theatrical  entertainment  in  which  the  "  Campania  Zara- 
zula"  gave  us  "  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin  "  in  Spanish,  and  a. 
curious  old  cabin  it  was.  They  varied  the  plot  so  as 
to  make  the  villain  Legree  get  his  deserts,  being 
whipped  to  death  by  the  slaves,  to  the  great  satisfaction 
of  the  populace,  half  of  whom  had  been  affected  to 
tears  by  the  imaginary  sufferings  of  the  slaves,  though 
they  had  most  of  them  seen  bull-fights  and  kindred 
atrocities  without  a  murmur  of  disapprobation,  and 
probably,  with  yells  of  delight. 

But  the  grand  and  closing  feature  of  the  demonstra- 
tions in  honor  of  the  nation's  guest,  was  the  ball  at  the 
Teatro  National  on  the  night  of  Thursday,  December 
9th.  Three  thousand  tickets,  of  which  one  thousand 
were  to  families,  were  issued,  and  more  than  three  thou- 
sand persons  were  in  attendance.  The  great  theater 
—the  largest  on  the  continent  of  America — was  decora- 
ted with  flowers  and  the  Mexican  and  American  colors 
from  floor  to  roof,  and  lighted  within  by  three  hundred 
and  fifty  chandeliers,  each  holding  from  twenty  to  fifty 
candles,  which  poured  down  a  flood  of  mellow  light 
and  blistering  stearine  on  all  below.  The  stage  was 
carried  out  so  as  to  cover  all  the  body  of  the  vast 
house,  the  fine  galleries  or  tiers  of  palcos  rising  one 
above  the  other  to  the  roof,  being  reserved  for  the  use 
of  those  not  participating  in  the  dance. 

Outside,  the  scene  was  magnificent.  The  front  of  the 
teatro,  from  ground  to  roof,  was  covered  with  lanterns, 
the  entire  street,  for  a  whole  block,  was  arched  over 


A    MAGNIFICENT    SCENE.  301 

and  illuminated,  making  a  fairy  arcade ;  and  lines  of 
cavalry  and  infantry,  in  superb  uniform,  kept  the  street 
clear  and  prevented  the  passing  of  carriages,  either 
way.  The  Government  paid  twenty-two  thousand  dol- 
lars for  the  music,  supper,  and  decorations  for  this  ball, 
and  it  must  have  been  honestly  and  economically  spent. 
Its  equal  has,  probably,  never  been  seen  on  the  Ameri- 
can continent. 

President  Juarez  and  family,  and  the  Seward  party, 
occupied  the  double  boxes,  with  crimson  silk  hangings 
and  costly  furniture,  constructed  for  the  sole  use  of 
Maximilian  and  his  suite,  and  from  thence  looked  down 
on  one  of  the  most  magnificent  scenes  which  the  mind 
can  imagine,  or  tongue  describe.  The  costumes  of  the 
ladies  in  attendance  were,  generally,  in  excellent  taste, 
and,  not  unfrequently,  rich  and  elegant  in  the  extreme. 
I  noticed  one  lady  who  wore  at  least  fifty  thousand  dol- 
lars worth  of  diamonds,  and  though  this  was  a  decided 
exception  to  the  rule,  there  were  many  others  whose 
toilets  represented  a  fortune. 

The  men  were  all  in  black  coats,  black  pants,  white 
vests,  gloves,  and  cravats,  without  a  single  exception. 
The  youth,  wealth,  beauty,  aristocracy  and  fashion  of 
Mexico,  were  fairly  represented,  though  some  of  the 
most  strict  and  haughty  of  the  machos  staid  away. 

At  10  p.  M.,  Mr.  Seward  was  received  by  President 
Juarez  and  family,  and  at  11  the  dancing  commenced. 
There  was  a  lack  of  that  animation  which  usually  char- 
acterizes an  American  ball-room,  but  in  its  place,  there 
was  an  amount  of  politeness  and  courtesy  exhibited  on 
all  sides  which  would  put  us  to  shame. 

The  dinner  was  spread  in  the  corridors  and  grand  sa- 
loon of  the  Hotel  Iturbide — once  the  palace  of  the  Itur- 


302  REMARKS    BY    MR.    SEWARD. 

bide  family — and  plates  were  laid  for  three  thousand 
persons.  There  was  no  convenient  place  for  speech- 
making,  except  in  the  saloon  where  President  Juarez 
and  Cabinet  and  Mr.  Seward  were  seated.  There,  in 
the  late  hours  before  day-break,  considerable  talking 
was  done.  During  this  speaking  an  incident,  which 
may  have  some  significance,  took  place. 

Sen  or  Valasquez  of  Monterey,  the  President  of  Con- 
gress for  that  month,  had  made  a  most  enthusiastic 
speech  in  honor  of  Mr.  Seward,  and  in  response,  the 
latter  called  his  attention  to  two  facts  in  the  history  of 
Europe  and  America  within  the  last  ten  years,  viz :  that 
the  Emperor  of  France  had  a  well-marked  and  distinct- 
ive foreign  policy,  and  a  domestic  policy,  both  of  which 
were  imperial  and  European.  The  first  showed  itself 
in  the  form  of  an  intervention  in  the  affairs  of  Amer- 
ica, and  an  attempt  to  establish  as  a  preliminary  an  Em- 
pire in  Mexico ;  and  the  second  in  the  furtherance  of 
the  project  for  the  completion  of  the  Suez  Canal 
through  the  Egyptian  peninsula  which  separates  the 
Mediterranean  from  the  Red  Sea.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  United  States  have  a  policy  in  regard  to  Mexico, 
and  a  foreign  policy  as  distinctly  marked,  and  alto- 
gether American,  which  shows  itself  in  maintaining  the 
independence  of  the  sister  Republic,  and  the  construc- 
tion of  a  ship  canal  across  the  isthmus  of  Darien  which 
separates  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans.  Mr.  Seward 
said  "  the  Colombian  Congress  hesitates  and  stumbles. 
Secure  for  us  Mr.  President,  a  resolution  of  the  Congress 
of  Mexico,  recommending  the  Colombian  Congress  to 
ratify  the  treaty  for  the  construction  of  a  ship  canal  across 
the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  which  has  already  been  negotiated 
between  the  two  Governments,  and  I  am  sure  that  the 


THE  BARLEY  SHIP  CANAL.  303 

Congress  of  Colombia  could  not  resist  the  friendly  ap- 
peal." 

Senor  Valasquez  replied,  that  he  could  not  answer 
for  the  Mexican  Congress  as  a  body  ;  it  must  speak  for 
itself  in  its  free  and  sovereign  capacity ;  but  he  would 
cheerfully  pledge  his  own  personal  support  of  such  a 
measure. 

President  Juarez  then  arose,  and  in  a  brief  speech  set 
forth  the  merits  of  the  project,  pronouncing  it  the  great 
work  of  Republican  America  and  of  modern  civiliza- 
tion. For  his  own  part  he  would  give  the  project  all 
the  support  and  assistance  in  his  power,  and  he  trusted 
that  Mr.  Seward,  as  well  as  himself,  might  live  to  see 
the  noble  work  accomplished.  Thereupon  all  the 
guests  at  the  table,  a  large  number  of  whom  were  mem- 
bers of  the  Mexican  Congress,  stood  up,  and  made  the 
hall  ring  with  enthusiastic  vivas  for  the  Darien  Ship 
Canal. 

The  banquet  and  ball  terminated  together  at  sunrise, 
and  the  official  ovations  to  Mr.  Seward  in  the  city  of 
Mexico  were  over. 

The  more  one  sees  of  President  Juarez,  the  more  he 
is  impressed  with  the  conviction  of  his  being  a  great 
man,  in  the  fullest  acceptation  of  the  word.  In  person,  he 
is  below  the  average  height  of  men  of  the  Anglo-Saxon 
race,  and  he  is  stout  built  without  tending  to  corpu- 
lency. In  his  dress  he  is  exceedingly  plain,  but  fastid- 
ioiisly  neat,  No  one  ever  sees  him  without  a  full  suit 
of  black  broadcloth,  dress  coat,  black  hat  of  fashion- 
able Parisian  pattern,  and  neatly  polished  boots.  The 
only  variation  is  on  important  social  occasions  like  this, 
when  he  dons  a  white  cravat  and  white  gloves,  in  place 
of  the  customary  black  ones. 


304  DON   BENITO   JUAREZ. 

He  rides  in  a  common  plain  coach — no  better  than  a 
first-class  hack  in  New  York — and  will  allow  no  ser- 
vants in  livery  about  him.  His  manner  is  always  quiet, 
and  his  demeanor  toward  strangers  courteous  and  affa- 
ble, without  in  the  least  tending  towards  familiarity. 
His  complexion  is  quite  dark,  with  the  reddish  tinge 
indicative  of  Aztec  Indian  blood,  eyes  small  and  black, 
features  strongly  Indian,  and  the  expression  of  his 
smooth-shaven  face  indicative  of  great  self-possession, 
quiet  self-reliance,  decision  and  indomitable  resolution. 
There  is  nothing  quick,  nervous,  or  "fidgety"  in  his 
manner.  I  doubt  if  any  man  living  can  say  he  ever 
saw  Benito  Juarez  scared,  excited,  or  irresolute  for  a 
moment. 

He  impresses  you  as  one  who  moves  slowly  but 
with  irresistible  force,  and  is  capable  of  any  sacrifice 
and  any  expenditure  of  time,  money,  or  blood  to  carry 
out  his  plans  when  once  adopted.  Whether  entertain- 
ing the  Nation's  guest,  as  we  saw  him  on  this  night,  when 
thousands  of  eyes  were  upon  him ;  sitting  in  his  bare- 
walled  room  at  El  Paso  del  Norte,  with  a  price  upon 
his  head,  and  but  two  hundred  Indian  troops  to 
support  him  and  the  Kepublic,  against  the  mercenary 
hordes  of  Europe,  and  domestic  traitors ;  or  walking 
in  the  garden  of  Chapultepec,  smoking  his  cigarrito,  and 
meditating  on  plans  for  putting  down  pronunciamentos, 
crushing  the  power  of  the  Church,  or  establishing 
schools  and  providing  for  the  education  and  improve- 
ment of  his  people,  he  is  ever  the  same  taciturn,  self- 
reliant,  hopeful,  unexcitable  man,  believing  in  himself, 
and  confident  of  the  final  triumph  of  Republicanism, 
over  all  trial  and  opposition.  A  horse-fancying  friend 
described  him  once  to  me  as  "  not  a  three-minute  trotter, 


CUEIOUS    TKADITION    A1STD    COINCIDENCES. 


305 


but  a  mighty  good  all-day  horse,  and  safe  for  a  long 
journey."  The  idea  is  sound,  though  expressed  in  a 
homely  manner. "  He  is  never  accused  of  forgetting  his 
friends,  and  his  triumph  over  all  enemies  and  difficul- 
ties the  most  gigantic,  stamp  him  as  a  man  of  no  ordi- 
nary mould ;  one  destined  to  fill  a  remarkable  page  in 
the  history  of  the  world. 

There  is  a  curious  coincidence  connected  with  this 
man's  history.  When  the  Spaniards  conquered  Mexico 
an  old  chief,  or  priest,  at  the  Pueblo  of  Taos  in  New 


THE  PUEBLO  OF  TAOS. 


Mexico,  kindled  a  fire  upon  the  altar  on  the  walls  of 
the  Aztec  temple  there,  and  planting  a  tree  in  front, 
told  his  followers  that  when  the  tree  died,  a  new  white 
race  would  come  from  the  East  and  conquer  the  land 
20 


306        YOUTHFUL    APPEARANCE    OF    THE    PRESIDENT. 


and  when  the  fire  went  out,  a  new  Montezuma  would 
establish  his  power  in  Mexico.  The  t/ree  died  in  1846, 
when  tlie  Americans  conquered  New  'Mexico,  and  the 
"fire  went  out  when  tlie  last  of  the  Aztec  priests  of  Taos 
died  at  his  post,  in  the  year  tJiat  Benito  Juarez  became 
President  of  Mexico  ! 

I  have  no  faith  in  miracles,  ancient  or  modern,  proph- 
ecies, saints,  or  "  old  wives'  fables,"  but  the  coincidences 
above  related  are  well  authenticated,  and  sufficiently  cu- 
rious to  be  worth  reading. 

Time  has  dealt  lightly  with  "  the  Don  Benito  ;  "  his 
black  hair  is  only  slightly  tinged  with  grey,  his  figure 
is  erect,  and  his  step  firm  and  elastic  as  that  of  an 
American  at  thirty;  his  teeth  are  white  and  perfect^ 

and  his  face  shows  few 
of  the  wrinkles.  If  I  did 
not  know  his  age  I  should 
—if  he  were  an  American 
— call  him  about  forty 


years  old  and  well  pre- 
served, and  no  one  on  see- 
ing him  any  number  of 
times  would  suspect  him 
of  having  seen  nearly  sixty 
sunime  rs.  He  comes 
of  a  long-lived,  enduring 
race,  and  in  the  ordinary  course  of  nature  has  yet  many 
years  of  life  and  the  full  enjoyment  of  mental  and 
physical  powers  before  him. 

After  the  grand  ball  at  the  Teafro  National,  there 
was  a  momentary  lull  in  the  demonstrations  in  honor 
of  Mr.  Seward.  Private  parties  and  dinners  were  given 
from  time  to  time  by  citizens  and  officials,  and  we  con- 


BENITO  JUAHEZ. 


RESIDENCES    OF    THE    BARRONS    AND    ESCANDONS.    307 

tinued  seeing  the  curious  and  wonderful  things  to  be 
found  in  the  Capital,  from  day  to  day,  in  a  quiet  way, 
avoiding  public  attention  as  far  as  possible.  The  houses 
of  the  most  refined  and  elegant  families  of  Mexico  were 
opened  to  the  party,  and  we  had  an  opportunity  to  see 
the  best  as  well  as  the  worst  phases  of  Mexican  life. 

Many  of  these  families  and  persons  engaged  in  show- 
ing these  attentions,  desired  to  be  regarded  as  merely 
warm,  personal  friends,  and  therefore  would  not  willing- 
ly allow  their  names  to  be  paraded  before  the  public 
in  this  connection. 

The  most  noticable  of  these  private  demonstrations, 
took  place  on  the  16th  of  December,  at  the  residence  of 
the  resident  representative  of  the  great  house  of  Barron 
&  Co.,  at  Tacubuya,  when  some  fifty  ladies  and  gentle- 
men representing  the  wealth,  beauty,  fashion,  and  aris- 
tocratic blood  of  Mexico,  met  to  breakfast  with  the 
party.  The  truly  palatial  residence  of  Mr.  Barron, 
contains  five  times  as  many  treasures  of  fine  art,  as  are 
to  be  found  in  any  private  residence  in  the  United 
States,  and  more  really  valuable  and  meritorious  old 
pictures,  than  we  have  ever  been  able  to  gather  into 
any  single  public  gallery.  The  magnificent  residence 
of  Senor  Escandon,  said  to  be  the  finest  and  most  taste- 
ful on  the,  continent,  adjoins  that  of  Mr.  Barron,  and  is 
even  richer  in  art  treasures,  several  superb  pictures  by 
Salvator  Rosa,  Murillo,  and  other  famous  old  artists 
being  among  them.  After  the  breakfast,  which  lasted 
from  12  M.  to  3  p.  M.,  the  guests  walked  through  both 
houses  and  the  magnificent  grounds  around  them,  filled 
even  at  this  season  with  fresh  roses  and  many  other 
lovely  flowers,  and  every  species  of  tree  and  shrub 
which  can  be  grown  in  this  prolific  climate,  played 


308  VIEW    OF    THE    VALLEY    FROM   TACUBT7YA. 

loliche,  or  danced  in  the  grand  saloon  until  night-fall, 
and  then  separated  with  regret,  after  one  of  the  most 
delightful  days  ever  experienced. 

The  view  of  the  City  of  Mexico  and  the  Valley,  Po- 
pocatapetl  and  "  The  Woman  in  White,"  and  all  the 
lovely  surroundings  of  this  old,  historic  city,  com- 
manded by  both  houses,  is  only  second  to  that  from 
Chapultepec,  in  any  respect,  and  superior  to  it  in  many 
particulars.  Seen  through  the  soft,  blue  haze  in  the 
warm,  mellow  light  of  the  winter  sun  of  Mexico,  the 
landscape  is  beautiful  as  a  vision  of  the  fabled  Acadia, 
and  looking  upon  it  but  once,  one  cannot  but  appreci- 
ate the  affection  which  the  people  of  Mexico  manifest 
for  their  country  in  all  her  misfortunes  and  calamities. 
It  is  a  country  to  be  proud  of,  to  honor,  and  to  love, 
and — American  though  I  am — I  must  give  ;t  the  palm 
over  mine ;  had  I  been  born  there,  I  would  live  there 
and  die  there,  nor  wish  for  any  better  land  to  love,  and 
hope  and  labor,  and  suffer  for. 


CHAPTER  XIY. 

AMID  THE  KTJINS  OF  EMPIEES. 

ID  you  ever  go  behind  the  scenes  in  a  theatre  after 
the  play  was  over,  the  audience  dismissed,  and  the 
actors  had  disrobed  and  gone  ?  I  did  that,  in  Mexico. 
The  theatre  was  an  empire,  and  the  actors  played  each 
a  part  in  one  of  the  mightiest  dramas  of  our  age  and 
time.  I  went  to  the  Palacio  National  of  Mexico,  and 
saw  in  the  garish  light  of  day,  the  "  scenic  effects," 
"  stage  accessories,"  and  tawdry  "  costumes,"  which  daz- 
zled the  eyes  of  the  outside  world  who  witnessed  the 
representation  of  "  The  Empire  of  Mexico,"  only  three 
years  ago. 

In  the  long  hall — made  by  throwing  three  rooms  into 
one,  by  order  of  Maximilian — in  which  the  grand  din- 
ner was  given  to  Mr.  Seward  but  a  few  nights  before, 
I  saw  the  full  length  portraits  of  Hidalgo  and  Guerrero, 
and  other  gallant  men  who  sealed  their  faith  in  liberty 
with  their  blood,  and  laid  down  their  lives  for  the  inde- 
pendence of  Mexico.  With  them,  I  saw  the  sword  and 
cane  of  Iturbide,  which  he,  under  the  influence  of  the 
Church,  exchanged  for  a  crown  and  a  traitors  death ;: 
and  only  a  few  yards  off,  the  crimson  canopy,  which 
overhung  the  throne  on  which  Maximilian  sat.  From 
the  windows  of  this  hall  I  looked  out  on  the  great 
Cathedral  of  Mexico,  with  its  millions  of  dollars  worth 
of  tawdry  ornaments,  going  slowly  but  surely  into  de- 


310  PLUNDER  FROM  THE  PALACE  OF  CHAPULTEPEC. 


cay,  and  the  palace  which  Hernando  Cortez  built  and 
occupied,  now  a  national  pawnbroker's  shop. 

Then  we  went  into  the  chapel  which  Maximilian 
caused  to  be  arranged  for  the  coronation  which  never 
took  place,  and  saw  the  cushioned  seats  on  which  he 
and  his  Empress  were  to  sit  while  the  services  progressed. 
Then  into  another  and  smaller  'chapel,  and  from  thence, 
to  the  great  store-rooms  in  which  is  piled  like  so  much 
useless  rubbish,  the  costly  trappings  which  adorned  the 
persons  of  the  actors  and  the  stage  on  which  they  strut- 
ted their  little  hour,  in  the  last  grand  imperial  farce  of 
our  time — of  all  time  I  trust ! 

In  one  room  there  are  numerous  paintings,  and  wooden, 
marble,  and  gilded  plaster  of  Paris  decorations  from  the 
palace  of  Chapultepec.  There  are  two  full  length  por- 
traits of  Maximilian  in  his  imperial  robes,  one  painted 
in  Munich,  the  other  in  Mexico.  In  each,  the  artist  has 
given  an  almost  feminine  beauty  to  his  forehead  and 

eyes,  and  the  blonde  Eng- 
lish whiskers  are  the  same ; 
but  the  coarse,  weak 
mouth  defied  all  efforts  at 
toning  down  and  soften- 
ing, and  both  artists  wise- 
ly represented  it  in  all  its 
disgusting  deformity. 

There  is  also  a  full 
length  portrait  of  Carlotta. 
which  so  closely  resembles 
the  fancy  pictures  of  Eu- 


MAXIMH.IAX. 


genie,  current  some  twenty  years  ago,  as  to  lead  to  the 
suspicion  of  a  common  model  having  served  for  each. 


COURT    COSTUMES    AND    IMPERIAL    DECORATIONS.      311 


CAIILOTTA. 


On  a  pedestal  near  by,  are  marble  busts  of  Maximilian 
and  Carlotta,  doubtless  sculptured  in  actual  mathemati- 
cal proportions,  which  are  as  much  unlike  the  painted 
portraits  as  possible;  the 
features  of  each  being 
coarser,  and  more  distinct- 
ly marked  and  character- 
istic. Mexico  is  filled 
with  representations  of 
Maximilian,  painted,  en- 
graved,  sculptured,  and 
printed,  and  it  almost 
seems  as  if  he  had  done 
nothing  else,  but  to  sit  for 
his  portrait  during  his 
whole  residence  in  the  country.  His  vanity  induced 
him  to  stamp  his  likeness  on  every  conceivable  object 
within  his  reach,  and  you  see  it  everywhere. 

In  a  case  in  the  same  room,  there  is  a  miscellaneous 
collection  of  court  costumes,  which  remind  one  of  the 
wardrobe  room  in  a  theatre.  There  are  gold  and  silver 
lace-embroidered  coats  and  hats  for  the  royal  flunkies, 
gorgeous  diamond  buckles  for  the  belts  of  gentlemen  of 
the  household,  jockey  caps  for  the  outriders  of  the  royal 
coach,  silver  and  gold-mounted  swords,  and  gold  and  sil- 
ver buttons,  for  senators,  representatives,  cabinet  officers, 
generals,  judges,  and  every  other  member  or  officer  of 
the  imperial  government.  Great,  gilt  monograms  of  the 
Emperor  and  Empress,  torn  down  from  over  windows 
and  doorways,  lay  scattered  about,  and  indecent  statues 
in  bronze,  more  indecently  mutilated  in  some  cases, 
were  shown  us. 


312 


MAXIMILIAN'S  GOLD  AND  SILVER  PLATE. 


In  one  room  there  is  a  pile  of  boxes  filled  with  patents 
of  nobility,  diplomas  of  orders  of  military  merit,  and 
certificates,  conferring  the  order  of  Guadaloupe  of  Mexi- 
co, on  hundreds  of  persons,  already  signed  and  sealed 
by  Maximilian  and  his  ministers.  I  was  permitted  to 
carry  away  some  of  these,  as  curiosities,  and  the  whole 
will  doubtless  be  eventually  scattered  over  the  world 
in  the  same  manner.  Who  wants  an  imperial  decora- 
tion cheap  as  dirt? 

In  another  room  I  counted  eighty-five  large,  brass- 
bound,  oaken  chests,  some  of  them  of  immense  size,  all 
of  which  bore  the  imperial  arms  and  cypher,  and  now 
contain,  or  once  contained,  the  silver  and  golden  plate 
which  was  manufactured  in  Europe  for  the  imperial 
table.  In  the  scenes  of  wild  confusion  which  followed 
the  downfall  of  the  empire,  much  of  this  plate  was 
stolen  by  servants,  or  otherwise  disappeared;  but  a 
great  quantity  still  remains,  and  I  cannot  but  wonder 

that  the  Government  of 
the  Republic  does  not, 
in  its  present  exigencies, 
melt  it  all  up  at  once,  and 
make  an  end  of  it. 
Every  piece  of  this  plate 
bears  the  royal  mono- 
gram, and  much  of  it  ap- 
pears never  to  have  been 
used. 

In  another  room  I  saw 
the  English  china  dinner- 
service,  in  white  and  gold, 

which  adorned  the  tables  at  Chapultepec  and  the  palace 
in  the  city,  each  piece  of  which  bears  the  monogram  of 


BBOKEN  PLATE  FROM  CHAPULTEPEC. 


HIS    STATE   CABKIAGE   AND    BILLIAED    TABLES.       313 

Maximilian.  In  the  last  grand  banquet  which  took 
place  at  Chapultepec,  before  the  fatal  expedition  to 
Queretaro — a  banquet  which  proved  a  very  Belshazzar- 
feast  to  the  Empire — many  pieces  of  this  porcelain 
service  were  broken.  I  was  presented  with  some  of 
these  curious  mementoes  of  that  ghostly  festival. 

If  one-tenth  of  the  furniture,  etc.,  etc.,  said  to  have 
been  imported  by  Maximilian  really  came  over  at  his 
expense,  I  am  not  surprised  at  the  imperial  treasury- 
having  been  bankrupted  so  soon.  I  saw  more  billiard- 
tables  than  would  fill  the  largest  hall  in  New  York, 
each  of  which  was  "  Max's  private  table ; "  every  saloon 
in  town  has  one  or  more,  and  most  of  the  private 
houses  indulge  in  the  same  costly  luxury.  I  have  made 
it  a  point  to  knock  the  balls  around — I  seldom  make  a 
point  in  doing  so — on  all  of  them,  and  so  have  possibly 
played  upon  his  private  table  somewhere,  though  where 
it  may  have  been,  heaven  knows.  His  carriages  are 
equally  numerous ;  everybody  who  can  keep  a  carriage, 
at  all,  has  one  of  them.  But  in  a  room  in  the  old  convent 
building  where  the  Aztec  relics  are  deposited,  I  saw  the 
veritable  carriage  presented  to  Maximilian  when  he  was 
on  his  way  to  Mexico,  by  the  imperialists  of  Milan.  It 
is  a  very  large  and  cumbersome  affair,  a  load  for  four 
horses,  though  it  might  be  drawn  on  a  very  good  road 
by  two,  and  as  rich  with  gold  and  silver  plating,  plate- 
glass,  silk  and  embossed  enameled  leather  as  it  would 
be  possible  to  make  it.  Nevertheless,  I  confess  to  no 
envy  for  the  couple  who  rode  in  it.  At  present  it  is 
nominally  the  property  of  the  Republic,  but  I  think 
that  no  one  has  ever  ridden  in  it  since  the  Empire  went 
down  in  blood,  and  it  is  a  useless  piece  of  lumber. 
President  Juarez,  who  is  very  plain  in  all  his  ways,  and 


31-1  MAXIMILIAN'S  COURT  AND  EMPIRE. 

anxious  to  avoid  all  show  and  ostentation,  would  hardly 
venture  to  ride  in  it — probably  could  not  be  persuaded 
to  do  so — and  it  is  now  a  chronic  case,  not  of  "  what  is 
it  ? "  but  "  what  shall  we  do  with  it  ? "  It  is  said  to 
have  cost  forty-seven  thousand  dollars. 

And  it  was  for  these  knick-nacks  and  gew-gaws,  gilt 
buttons,  gold  and  silver  lace«,  florid  pictures,  marble, 
bronze,  and  silver  statues,  busts  and  medals,  gold  and 
silver  plate  and  flashy  porcelain  table  services,  and 
tawdry  tinsel  and  trappings,  now  fading  away,  growing 
discolored,  moulding,  and  dust-laden,  in  the  lumber 
rooms  of  the  Palacio  Nacional,  that  the  royal  wittol 
Maximilian  of  Hapsburg,  bartered  an  empire,  sacrificed 
the  love  and  respect  of  all  the  friends  he  ever  had  in 
Mexico,  drenched  the  land  in  blood,  clad  a  nation  in 
mourning,  and  finally  signed  a  decree  which  proved  his 
own  death-warrant,  closed  the  door  of  mercy  against 
him,  consigned  him  to  a  bloody  grave,  and  covered  his 
name  with  infamy  for  all  time  ! 

Maximilian  had  a  court  as  complete  in  all  its  appoint- 
ments as  that  of  Napoleon  III,  but  no  empire  beyond 
the  reach  of  the  bayonets  of  his  foreign  mercenaries, 
and  all  the  money  went  in  raree-shows,  and  such  theat- 
rical displays  as  could  be  gotten,  up  with  the  court-trap- 
pings which  I  have  been  describing.  The  bankrupt 
Prince  from  Mirimar  lost,  completely,  what  little  brains 
he  had  to  lose,  when  he  found  himself  before  the  foot- 
lights playing  the  role  of  Emperor.  The  millions 
wrung  from  a  starving  and  terribly  oppressed  people, 
or  cajoled  from  the  humbugged  and  swindled  subscri- 
bers to  the  Mexican  loan  in  Europe,  were  wasted  in  such 
nonsense  as  this,  while  the  people  wanted  bread ;  pub- 
lic improvements,  which  might  have  deferred,  if  not 


HIS    FATAL    MISTAKE.  315 

averted  the  evil  day,  could  not  go  on  for  the  want  of 
funds,  and  the  army — such  as  it  was — subsisting  on  the 
plunder  of  helpless  villages,  perpetrated  every  conceiva- 
ble atrocity,  and,  at  last,  drove  the  whole  nation  to  for- 
get private  quarrels  and  unite,  as  one  man,  in  a  war  of 
extermination  against  the  invaders. 

When  money  began  to  fail,  and  creditors  to  clamor, 
and  it  became  evident,  even  to  his  dull  senses,  that  a 
change  must  come,  instead  of  reducing  expenses,  con- 
verting everything  available  into  funds  with  which  to 
pay  the  army  and  recruit  followers  from  all  ranks  of 
society,  then  inaugurating  a  new  and  vigorous,  but  hon 
orable  campaign,  he  dallied  and  trifled,  yielding  to  first 
one  party,  then  the  other,  never  being  in  the  same  mind 
two  days  in  succession,  and,  finally,  committed  the  fatal 
mistake  of  endeavoring  to  crush  his  enemies  at  a  blow 
of  the  pen  instead  of  the  sword,  and  by  compelling 
them  to  fight  with  the  halter  around  their  necks,  in- 
crease the  effectiveness  of  his  own  army,  which  wanted 
every  element  calculated  to  ensure  success  for  his  cause. 
When  he  signed  the  black  flag  decree,  he  reduced  his 
followers  to  the  level  of  common  cut-throats  and  ban- 
ditti, and  drove  his  opponents  to  desperation. 

I  do  not  believe  that  the  establishment  of  a  perma- 
nent Empire  in  Mexico  was  ever  practicable,  but  Maxi- 
milian might  have  won  to  himself  a  large  and  influen- 
tial party,  which  would  have  sustained  him  for  a  long 
time,  and  in  the  end  might  have  retired  from  the  coun- 
try without  dishonor  to  himself,  and  with  the  respect, 
if  not  the  sympathy  of  mankind,  had  he  but  possessed 
the  smallest  amount  of  practical  common  sense,  and 
been  less  easily  tickled  with  empty  compliments,  paid 
applause,  and  the  gaudy  feathers  and  tinsel  with  which 


316  THE    AKCHIVES    OF    MEXICO. 

lie  covered  himself,  and  strutted  his  little  hour  upon  the 
stage. 

Probably  it  is  better  as  it  is,  and  Maximilian  served  the 
world  better  as  material  with  which  "  to  point  a  moral, 
and  adorn  a  tale,"  than  he  could  ever  have  done  as  a 
statesman  and  a  ruler  by  "  right  Divine ;"  nevertheless, 
one  cannot  but  feel  a  touch  of  T«egret,  as  he  stands  amid 
these  ruins,  and  reflects  upon  the  wide  difference  be- 
tween the  mournful  fact,  and  the  brighter  possibility ; 
what  was,  and  what  might  have  been. 

The  archives  contain  the  decrees  and  other  documents 
issued  by  each  of  the  different  governments  and  admin- 
istrations of  Mexico,  from  the  Spanish  conquest,  down 
to  the  present  day,  with  the  single  exception  of  those 
of  Maximilian's  Empire,  which  are  ignored  and  treated 
as  of  no  validity  or  importance  whatever.  All  the  doc- 
uments emanating  from  that  source  are  kept  separate, 
as  having  no  part  in  the  legitimate  history  of  Mexico. 
Among  them  is  one  which  must  stand  as  a  full,  com- 
plete, and  irrefutable  answer  to  all  charges  of  cruelty 
and  undue  severity  on  the  part  of  Mexico  and  the  Jua- 
rez administration,  in  the  matter  of  the  execution  of 
Maximilian.  The  act  has  been  denounced  in  the  most 
unmeasured  terms  by  the  sympathizers  with  monarchy, 
and  the  admirers  of  royalty  in  the  United  States  and 
Europe,  and  even  men  whose  education  and  natural 
instincts  have  led  them,  in  all  other  matters,  to  take  the 
side  of  the  people  against  those  who  pretend  to  rule  by 
"  right  Divine,"  have  been  so  far  misled  by  false  state- 
ments and  perversion  of  fact,  as  to  characterize  it  as  a 
murder. 

Let  us  see  the  facts :  Maximilian  came  into  Mexico  at 
the  invitation  of  Napoleon  III.,  backed  by  French  bay- 


THE   MASK    THKOWN    OFF.  317 

nets,  and  followed  by  an  army  of  foreign  mercenaries. 
A  vote,  taken  only  in  places  held  by  the  French  where 
the  result  was  a  foregone  conclusion,  and  the  entire 
movement  a  farce  of  the  broadest  description,  as  he 
well  knew,  proclaimed  him  the  choice  of  the  Mexican 
people,  and  he  assumed  the  title  and  state  of  Emperor 
of  Mexico.  The  defenders  of  the  Republic  were  hunted 
down  like  wild  beasts,  and  killed  as  fast  as  captured, 
until  all  hope  seemed  gone,  and  the  Empire  appeared 
so  securely  established  that  the  professions  of  good 
will,  mild  intentions,  and  clemency,  with  which  he  en- 
tered the  country,  could  be  safely  ignored,  and  the 
mask  was  thrown  off,  at  once.  The  report  was.  spread 
abroad  in  advance — as  an  excuse  for  the  decree  which 
was  to  follow — that  President  Juarez,  who  had  been 
pursued  with  the  most  vindictive  energy  by  the  parti- 
zans  and  retainers  of  Maximilian,  had  been,  at  last, 
driven  across  the  Rio  Grande,  at  El  Paso  del  Norte, 
into  the  United  States;  and  thereupon  the  following 
proclamation,  which  lies  before  me  as  I  write,  was 
issued : 

PROCLAMATION   OF   HIS   MAJESTY,    THE   EMPEROR. 

MEXICANS  :  The  cause  which  Don  Benito  Juarez  defended 
with  so  much  valor  and  constancy  has  already  succumbed  under 
the  force,  not  only  of  the  national  will,  but  also  of  the  very  law 
which  that  officer  invoked  in  support  of  his  pretensions.  To 
day  even  the  faction,  into  which  the  said  cause  degenerated,  is 
abandoned  by  the  departure  of  its  Chief  from  the  native  soil. 

The  national  government  for  a  long  time  was  lenient,  and 
exercised  great  clemency  in  order  to  give  the  chance  to  misled 
and  misinformed  men  to  rally  to  the  majority  of  the  nation,  and 
to  place  themselves  anew,  in  the  path  of  duty.  It  has  fulfilled 
its  object ;  the  honorable  men  have  assembled  under  its  banner, 


318  MAXIMILIAN'S  PROCLAMATION. 

and  have  accepted  the  just  and  liberal  principles  which  regu- 
late its  politics.  The  disorder  is  only  maintained  by  some  lead- 
ers, carried  away  by  unpatriotic  passions,  and  assisted  by  demor- 
alized persons  who  cannot  reach  to  the  level  of  political  princi- 
ples, and  by  an  unprincipled  soldiery,  the  last  sad  remnants  of 
the  civil  wars. 

Hereafter,  the  contest  will  only  be  between  the  honorable 
men  of  the  nation  and  the  gangs  of  criminals  and  robbers. 
Clemency  will  cease  now,  for  it  would  only  profit  the  mob 
who  burn  villages,  rob  and  murder  peaceable  citizens,  poor  old 
men  and  defenceless  women. 

The  Government  resting  on  its  power,  from  this  day  will  be 
inflexible  in  its  punishments,  since  the  laws  of  civilization,  the 
rights  of  humanity,  and  the  exigencies  of  morality  demand  it. 

Mexico,  October  2d,  1865.  MAXIMILIAN. 

In  othjer  words  the  French  and  mercenary  troops  had 
driven  Juarez  over  the  boundary — he  never  crossed  it 
but  the  assertion  was  made  for  effect — and  the  Empire 
now  felt  strong  enough  to  throw  off  the  mask  and  hoist 
the  black  flag  in  form ;  it  had  done  so,  in  fact  and  prac- 
tice, from  the  very  outset,  but  a  show  of  clemency  must 
be  made,  in  order  to  conciliate  public  opinion  and  blind 
the  eyes  of  the  world  at  large,  until  a  time  arrived 
when  it  could  with  safety  adopt  a  truly  imperial  policy, 
such  as  would  be  in  keeping  with  the  traditions  of  the 
house  of  Hapsburg- Lorraine. 

On  the  next  day  after  the  publication  of  the  above 
quoted  decree,  the  famous  and  infamous  "  Black  Flag 
Decree,"  which  cost  Maximilian  his  life  two  years  later, 
was  signed  and  issued.  This  most  remarkable  docu- 
ment of  our  times  was  as  follows : 

MAXIMILIAN,    EMPEROR   OF   MEXICO. 

Having  heard  our  Ministers  and  our  Council  of  State ;  we 
decree : 


THE  BLACK  FLAG  DECREE.  319 

ARTICLE  1.  All  persons  belonging  to  armed  bands  or  corps, 
not  legally  authorized,  whether  they  proclaim,  or  not  any  politi- 
cal principles,  and  whatever  he  the  number  of  those  who  com/pose 
the  said  bands,  their  organization,  character,  and  denomination, 
shall  be  tried  militarily  by  the  Courts  Martial,  and  if  found 
guilty,  even  of  the  fact  of  belonging  to  the  band,  they  shall  be 
condemned  to  capital  punishment  within  the  twenty-four  hours 
following  the  sentence. 

ART.  2.  Those,  who  belonging  to  the  bands  mentioned  in 
the  previous  article,  are  captured  with  arms  in  their  hands, 
shall  be  tried  by  the  officer  of  the  force  which  has  captured 
them,  and  he  shall,  within  a  delay  never  extending  over  twenty- 
four  hours  after  the  said  capture,  make  a  verbal  inquest  of  the 
offence,  hearing  the  defence  of  the  prisoner.  Of  this  inquest 
he  will  draw  an  act,  closing  with  the  sentence,  which  must  be  to 
capital  punishment  if  the  accused  is  found  guilty  even  if  only 
of  the  fact  of  belonging  to  the  hand.  The  officer  shall  have  the 
sentence  executed  within  the  twenty-four  hours  aforesaid,  seeing 
that  the  criminal  receive  spiritual  assistance.  The  sentence 
having  been  executed,  the  officer  shall  forward  the  act  of  inquest 
to  the  Minister  of  War. 

ART.  3.  From  fhe  penalty  established  in  the  preceding 
articles  shall  be  only  exempted  those,  who  having  done  nothing 
more  than  being  with  the  band,  will  prove  that  they  were  made 
to  join  it  by  force,  or  did  not  belong  to  it,  but  were  found  acci- 
dentally in  it. 

ART.  4.  If,  from  the  inquest  mentioned  in  article  two,  facts 
are  elicited  which  induce  the  officer  holding  it  to  believe  that 
the  prisoner  was  made  to  join  the  band  by  force,  without  hav- 
ing committed  any  other  crime,  or  that  he  was  found  accident- 
ally in  it,  without  belonging  to  it,  the  said  officer  shall  abstain 
from  passing  sentence,  and  he  shall  send  the  accused,  with  the 
respective  act  of  inquest,  to  the  proper  court-martial,  in  order 
that  the  trial  be  proceeded  with  by  the  latter,  in  conformity 
with  article  one. 

ART.  5.  Shall  be  tried  and  sentenced  conformably  with  ar- 
ticle one  of  this  law : — 1st.  All  those  who  will  voluntarily  as- 
sist the  guerrilleros  with  money  or  any  other  means  whatever. 


320 


TIIE    BLACK    FLAG    DECEEE. 


2d.  Those  who  will  give  them  advice,  information  or  counsel. 
3d.  Those  who  voluntarily,  and  knowing  that  they  are  guerril- 
leros,  will  put  within  their  reach,  or  sell  them,  arms,  horses,  am- 
munition, subsistence,  or  any  article  of  war  whatever. 

ART.  6.  Shall  also  be  tried  conformably  with  the  said  arti- 
cle 1st : — 1.  Those  who  will  hold  with  the  guerrilleros  such  re- 
lations as  infer  connivance  with  them.  2.  Those  who  volunta- 
rily and  knowingly  will  conceal  them  in  their  houses  or  estates. 
3.  Those  who,  by  word,  or  writing,  will  spread  false  or  alarm- 
ing reports,  by  which  public  order  may  be  disturbed  ,  or  will 
make  against  it  any  kind  of  demonstration  whatever.  4.  All 
owners  or  administrators  of  rural  estates  who  will  not  give 
prompt  notice  to  the  nearest  authority  of  the  passage  of  some 
band  through  the  said  estates.  Those  included  in  paragraphs 
1st  and  2d  of  this  article,  shall  be  punished  by  imprison- 
ment  from  six  months  to  two  years,  or  by  hard  labor  from  one 
to  three  years,  according  to  the  gravity  of  the  case.  Those 
who,  being  included  in  paragraph  2d,  were  the  ascendants, 
descendants,  spouses,  or  brothers  of  the  party  concealed  bv  them, 
shall  not  suffer  the  penalty  aforesaid,  but  they  shall  remain  sub- 
ject to  the  vigilance  of  the  authorities  during  the  time  the 
court-martial  will  fix.  Those  included  in  paragraph  3d  of  this 
article  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  from  twenty-five  dollars 
to  one  thousand  dollars,  or  by  imprisonment  from  one  month  to 
one  year,  according  to  the  gravity  of  the  offence.  Those  in- 
cluded in  paragraph  4th  of  this  article  shall  be  punished  by  a 
fine  of  from  two  hundred  dollars  to  two  thousand  dollars. 

ART.  7.  The  local  authorities  of  the  villages  who  will  not 
give  notice  to  their  immediate  superiors  of  the  passage  through 
their  villages  of  armed  men,  will  be  ministerially  punished  by 
the  said  superiors,  by  a  fine  of  from  two  hundred  dollars  to  two 
thousand  dollars,  or  by  seclusion  from  three  months  to  two 
years. 

ART.  8.  Whatever  resident  of  a  village  who,  having  infor- 
mation of  the  proximity  or  passage  of  armed  men  by  the  vil- 
lage, will  not  give  notice  of  it  to  the  authorities,  shall  suffer  a 
tine  of  from  five  dollars  to  five  hundred  dollars. 


THE  BLACK  FLAG  DECKEE.  321 

ART.  9.  All  residents  of  a  village  threatened  by  some  gang, 
who  are  between  the  ages  of  eighteen  and  fifty-five  years,  and 
have  no  physical  disability,  are  obliged  to  present  themselves 
for  the  common  defence  as  soon  as  called,  and  for  failing  to  do 
*  so,  they  shall  be  punished  by  a  fine  of  from  five  dollars  to  two 
'hundred  dollars,  or  by  imprisonment  of  fifteen  days  to  four 
months.  If  the  authorities  think  it  more  proper  to  punish  the 
village  for  not  having  defended  itself,  they  may  impose  upon  it 
a  fine  of  from  two  hundred  dollars  to  two  thousand  dollars,  and 
the  said  fine  shall  be  paid  by  all  those  together,  who,  being  in 
the  category  prescribed  by  this  article,  did  not  present  them- 
selves for  the  common  defence.  , 

AET.  10.  All  owners  or  administrators  of  rural  estates,  who 
being  able  to  defend  themselves,  will  not  prevent  the  entrance 
in  the  said  estates  of  guerrilleros  or  other  malefactors ;  or,  after 
these  have  entered,  will  not  give  immediate  information  of  it 
to  the  nearest  military  authority ;  or  will  receive  on  the  estates 
the  tired  or  wounded  horses,  of  the  gangs,  without  notifying  the 
said  authority  of  the  fact,  shall  be  punished  for  it  by  a  fine  of 
from  one  hundred  dollars  to  two  thousand  dollars,  according  to 
the  importance  of  the  case ;  and  if  it  is  of  great  gravity,  they 
shall  be  put  in  prison  and  sent  to  the  court-martial,  to  be  tried 
by  the  latter  conformably  with  the  law.  The  fine  shall  be  paid 
to  the  principal  administrator  of  rents  to  which  the  estate  be- 
longs. The  provision  of  the  first  part  of  this  article  is  applica- 
ble to  the  populations. 

AET.  11.  Whatever  authorities,  whether  political,  military,, 
or  municipal,  shall  abstain  from  proceeding,  in  conformity  with 
the  provisions  of  this  law,  against  parties  suspected  or  known 
to  have  committed  the  offences  provided  for  in  said  law,  will  be 
ministerially  punished  by  a  fine  of  from  fifty  dollars  to  one- 
thousand  dollars ;  and  if  it  appear  that  the  fault  was  of  such  a , 
nature  as  to  import  complicity  with  the  criminal,  the  said  author  ~- 
ities  will  be  submitted,  by  order  of  the  government,  to  the  court- 
martial,  to  be  tried  by  the  latter,  and  punished  according  to  the 
gravity  of  the  offense. 

AET    12.     Thieves  shall  be  tried  and  sentenced  in  conformity 
21 


322  THE  BLACK  FLAG  DECREE. 

with  article  1st  of  this  law,  whatever  may  be  the  nature  and 
circumstances  of  the  theft. 

ART.  13.  The  sentence  of  death  pronounced  for  offences 
provided  for  by  this  law  shall  be  executed  within  the  delays  pre- 
scribed in  it,  and  it  is  prohibited  that  any  demands  for  pardon 
be  gone  through.  If  the  sentence  is  not  of  death,  and  the  crimi- 
nal is  a  foreigner,  even  after  its  execution,  the  government  may 
use  towards  him  the  faculty  it  has'to  expel  from  the  territory 
of  the  nation  all  obnoxious  strangers. 

ART.  14.  Amnesty  is  granted  to  all  those  who  may  have 
belonged,  and  may  still  belong,  to  armed  bands,  if  they  present 
themselves  to  the  authorities  before  the  15th  of  November  next, 
provided  they  have  not  committed  any  other  offences  subse- 
quently to  the  date  of  the  present  law.  The  authorities  will 
receive  the  arms  of  those  who  will  present  themselves  to  accept 
the  amnesty. 

ART.  15.  The  government  reserves  the  faculty  to  declare 
when  the  provisions  of  this  law  will  cease. 

Each  one  of  our  ministers  is  charged  with  the  execution  of 
this  law  in  the  part  which  concerns  him,  and  will  give  the  ne- 
cessary orders  for  its  strict  observance. 

Given  at  the  palace  of  Mexico  on  the  3d  of  October,  1865. 

MAXIMILIAN. 

The  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  charged  with  the  ministry 
of  state. 

JOSE  F.  RAMIREZ. 
The  Minister  of  War, 

JUAN  DE  DIGS  PEZA. 
The  Minister  of  Improvement, 

Luis  ROBLES  PEZUELA. 
The  Minister  of  the  Interior, 

JOSE  MARIA  ESTEVA. 
The  Minister  of  Justice, 

PEDRO  ESCUDERO  T  ECHANOVA. 
The  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  and  Religious  Worship, 

MANUEL  SILICEO. 
The  Sub-Secretary  of  the  Treasury, 

FRANCISCO  DE  P.  CESAR. 


THE    APOLOGISTS    FOE    MAXIMILIAN.  323 

The  suborned  apologists  for  Maximilian — the  records, 
of  the  Imperial  treasury  show  that  the  sum  of  fifteen 
thousand  dollars  was  remitted  monthly  to  New  York 
"for  the  press" — have  asserted  that  this  infamous 
proclamation  was  issued  under  the  false  impression  that 
Juarez  had  fled  from  the  territory  of  the  Republic,  and 
that  Maximilian  was  deceived  in  this  matter  by  the 
French.  But  it  will  be  seen  that  this  proclamation  was 
issued  October  3d,  1865,  and  Maximilian's  surrender  to, 
or  capture  by  the  victorious  forces  of  the  Republic,  took 
place  on  the  17th  of  May,  1867, — nearly  two  year 8  later. 
During  all  this  time  tlie  butcliery  of  prisoners  of  war 
under  this  decree  went  on,  without  so  much  as  a  protest 
against  it  by  Maximilian,  and  the  decree  itself  was  never 
modified,  nor  action  under  it  suspended  for  a  moment. 
Surely,  when  he  stood  at  bay  at  Queretaro,  with  the 
Republican  army  surrounding  him  at  all  points,  he 
could  not  have  been  under  the  impression  that  the  war 
had  dwindled  down  to  a  mere  guerrilla  conflict ;  and 
still  the  butchery  of  prisoners  under  this  decree  went  on. 
Only  two  or  three  days  before  the  capture  of  Maximil- 
ian at  Queretaro,  a  young  man  named  Mercado,  son  of 
one  of  the  best  families  of  Mexico,  was  captured  by  the 
Imperial  forces,  and  murdered  within  the  twenty-four 
hours,  as  prescribed  by  this  decree. 

Again,  it  is  alleged  that  the  decree  was  only  intended 
to  beheld  in  terrorem  over  the  heads  of  Republicans,  and 
was  never  intended  to  be  put  in  force.  The  falsity  of 
this  plea  is  evidenced  by  the  decree  itself,  which  in  ex- 
press terms  forbids  the  reception  of  any  petition  for 
pardon  by  the  officer,  and  directs  him  to  report  the  cap- 
ture of  prisoners  after  they  have  been  executed,  and 
not  before. 


324          THE  RECORDS  OF  THE  EMPIRE. 

i 

Then  it  was  said  that  this  was  only  aimed  at  the 
guerillas,  and  not  at  the  regular  Republican  army. 
Articles  one  and  two  are  drawn  in  terms  which  cannot 
be  mistaken,  and  leave  no  possibility  of  a  question  on 
this  point ;  and  if  any  doubt  existed  after  reading  the 
decree,  the  records  of  the  Empire  itself  prove  beyond 
a  question,  what  was  meant  and  what  was  done. 

Among  these  records,  the  first  document  relating  to 
executions  under  this  decree,  is  a  report  to  the  War 
Department  from  the  State  of  Michoacan,  signed  by 
Colonel  R.  Mendez,  and  dated  October  13th.  In  this 
report  Col.  Mendez  details  the  particulars  of  the  sur- 
prise of  General  Arteaga  by  his  command,  and  adds : 

"  Among  my  prisoners  is  the  commander-in-chief,  Arteaga, 
General  Salazar,  Colonel  Diaz  Paracho,  Villa  Gomez,  Perez 
Milicua,  and  Yillanos,  five  lieutenant-colonels,  eight  command- 
ers, and  a  large  number  of  subordinate  officers,  a  list  of  whose 
names  I  will  send  you." 

Appended  to  this  report  is  a  note  by  the  officer  next 
in  command,  as  follows : 

"This  achievement,  one  of  the  most  glorious  of  the  cam- 
paign, does  the  greatest  honor  to  Colonel  Mendez,  and  simpli- 
fies the  task  of  pacificating  Michoacan.  Arteaga,  without  be- 
ing a  skillful  general,  is  an  honest  and  sincere  man,  who  lias  dis- 
tinguished himself  more  than  once  in  his  career  by  traits  of  hu- 
manity. Justice  to  the  conquered."  CH.  D.  BAKEES. 

All  these  officers,  and  many  hundred  captured  subse- 
quently, were  murdered  under  this  decree.  Senor  Ro- 
mero writing  to  Mr.  Seward  on  this  subject,  under  date 
of  Nov.  20th,  1865,  says: 

"  This  barbarous  and  bloody  decree,  the  most  cruel  ever  vet 


EOMEBO'8    LETTER  TO   ME.    SEWAED.  325 

seen,  has  already  begun  to  be  executed.  I  have  information, 
of  the  truth  of  which  unhappily,  there  is  no  doubt,  that  the  two 
generals  and  four  colonels  were  barbarously  sacrificed  in  fla- 
grant violation  of  the  laws  of  war,  and  every  principle  of 
justice. 

These  generals  and  colonels  belonged  to  the  regular  army  of 
the  Kepublic,  were  officers  of  education  and  profession,  and  had 
fought  for  the  independence  of  their  country  from  the  time  the 
French  first  landed  in  Mexico. 

General  Arteaga  had  reached  the  highest  rank  in  the  Mexican 
army,  and  had  recently  succeeded  ex-General  Uraga  in  com- 
mand, in  the  army  of  the  center.  He  was  thoroughly  loyal,  a 
patriot  without  blemish,  and  enjoyed  a  high  reputation  for  hon- 
esty and  probity  among  his  fellow-countrymen  of  all  political 
shades.  His  constancy  and  suffering  in  the  campaign  against 
the  French,  Austrian  and  Belgian  invaders  in  the  State  of  Mich- 
oacan,  for  the  last  two  years,  would  suffice  to  give  him  a  great 
reputation,  if  he  had  not  already  possessed  one.  His  humanity 
was  proverbial,  as  the  French,  Belgian,  and  Austrian  soldiers 
who  were  taken  prisoners  by  his  forces  at  different  times  can 
testify. 

The  other  chiefs  and  officers  who  were  made  prisoners  with 
General  Arteaga,  though  they  had  not  arrived  at  the  high  po- 
sition of  their  leader,  were  not  less  respectable  and  worthy. 

These  distinguished  Mexicans  were  executed  in  accordance 
with  the  above-mentioned  bloody  decree  of  the  usurper  of 
Mexico." 

Nor  has  the  worst  and  most  damning  fact  in  connec- 
tion with  this  fearful  crime  been  related.  The  officers 
named,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  traitor  Mendez  on  the 
13th  of  October,  and  he,  being  in  doubt  of  the  true 
purport  of  the  decree,  or  willing,  for  his  own  credit,  to 
appear  to  be  so,  kept  them  alive  until  the  21st  of  Octo- 
ber, and  then  slwt  them  all  in  obedience  to  a  peremptory 
mandate  from  the  Imperial  Minister  of  War,  directing 


326  AETEAGA'S  LETTER  TO  HIS  MOTHEK. 

him,  on  this  and  all  subsequent  occasions,  to  execute  the 
provisions  of  the  decree  to  the  very  letter.  Can  any  hon- 
est man  stand  here  with  these  damning  records  before 
him,  and  maintain  that  Maximilian  did  not  deserve  his 
fate  ?  It  does  not  seem  to  me  to  be  possible,  and  I  can 
only  attribute  the  sympathy  Maximilian  has  received 
in  the  United  States,  to  gross  ignorance  of  the  facts  of 
history,  and  his  true  character. 

There  is  a  positive  relief  in  turning  from  the  perusal 
of  this  infernal  decree,  and  the  record  of  the  butcheries 
performed  under  it,  to  the  letters  of  the  loyal  men  who 
were  the  first  sacrificed,  written  to  their  mothers  during 
their  last  moments.  These  letters  should  be  translated 
into  all  languages,  and  published,  as  the  most  effective 
answer  to  the  charges  of  cruelty  and  unnecessary  harsh- 
ness in  the  matter  of  the  treatment  of  Maximilian,  made 
so  freely  against  the  Liberals  of  Mexico.  Here  they 
are: 

"URTJAPAN,  October  20,  1865. 

"My  ADORED  MOTHER:  I  was  taken  prisoner  on  the  13th 
instant  by  the  Imperial  troops,  and  to-morrow  I  am  to  be  shot. 
I  pray  you,  mama,  to  pardon  me  for  all  the  suifering  I  have 
caused  you  during  the  time  I  have  followed  the  profession  of 
arms,  against  your  will. 

"  Mama,  in  spite  of  all  my  efforts  to  aid  you,  the  only  means 
I  had  I  sent  you  in  April  last ;  but  God  is  with  you,  and  he 
will  not  suffer  you  to  perish,  nor  my  sister  Trinidad,  the  little 
Yankee. 

"  I  have  not  told  you  before  of  the  death  of  my  brother  Luis, 
because  I  feared  you  would  die  of  grief;  he  died  at  Tuxpan,  in 
the  State  of  Jalisco,  about  the  first  of  January  last. 

"  Mama,  I  leave  nothing  but  a  spotless  name ;  for  I  have 
never  taken  anything  that  did  not  belong  to  me ;  and  I  trust 
God  will  pardon  all  my  sins  and  take  me  into  his  glory. 


SALAZAB'S  LETTER  TO  HIS  MOTHEE.  327 

"  I  die  a  Christian,  and  bid  you  all  adieu— you,  Dolores,  and 
all  the  family,  as  your  very  obedient  son, 

"  JOSE  MARIA  ARTEAGA. 

"DoNA  APOLONIA  MAGALLANES  DE  ARTEAGA,  Aguas  Car 
lientes" 

"  URTTAPAN,  October  20,  1865. 

"  ADOKED  MOTHER:  It  is  seven  o'clock  at  night,  and  General 
Arteaga,  Colonel  Villa  Gomez,  with  three  other  chiefs  and  my- 
self, have  just  been  condemned.  My  conscience  is  quiet ;  I  go 
down  to  the  tomb  at  thirty-three  years  of  age,  without  a  stain 
upon  my  military  career  or  a  blot  upon  my  name.  "Weep  not, 
but  be  comforted,  for  the  only  crime  your  son  has  committed  is 
the  defense  of  a  holy  cause — the  independence  of  his  country. 
For  this  I  am  to  be  shot.  I  have  no  money  for  I  have  saved 
nothing.  I  leave  you  without  a  fortune,  but  God  will  aid  you 
and  my  children,  who  are  proud  to  bear  my  name.  *  *  * 

"  Direct  my  children  and  my  brothers  in  the  path  of  honor, 
for  the  scaffold  cannot  attaint  loyal  names. 

"  Adieu,  dear  mother.  I  will  receive  your  blessings  from  the 
tomb.  Embrace  my  good  uncle  Luis  for  me,  and  Tecla,  Lupe 
and  Isabel ;  also  my  namesake,  as  well  as  Carmelita,  Cholita, 
and  Manuelita ;  give  them  many  kisses,  and  the  adieu  from  my 
inmost  soul.  I  leave  the  first  my  silver-gilt  watch  ;  to  Manuel 
I  leave  four  suits  of  clothes.  Many  blessings  for  my  uncles, 
aunts,  cousins  and  all  loyal  friends,  and  receive  the  last  adieu 
of  your  obedient  and  faithful  son,  who  loves  you  much. 

"  CARLOS  SALAZAR. 
"  Mrs.  MERCEDES  Ruiz  DE  CASTANEDA. 

"POSTSCRIPT. — If  affairs  should  change  hereafter — and  it  is 
possible  they  may — I  wish  my  ashes  to  repose  by  the  side  of  my 
children,  in  your  town." 

Things  did  change  indeed ;  and  the  remains  of  Ar- 
teaga and  Salazar  were  removed  to  the  Pantheon  at 
Mexico,  and  entombed  with  great  pomp  among  the  Na- 
tion's Dead,  a  snort  time  before  the  visit  of  Mr.  Seward 
to  the  Republic. 


328  REMONSTRANCE    OF   THE    BELGIANS. 

To  the  honor  of  the  Belgians  in  the  employ  of  Maxi- 
milian, let  it  be  said  that  they  protested  most  emphati- 
cally against  this  decree,  and  the  murders  which  were 
perpetrated  under  it. 

Two  hundred  Belgians,  who  were  at  the  time  in  the 
hands  of  the  Liberal  forces  at  Tacambaro,  signed  a 
formal  remonstrance  to  Maximilian  on  the  subject,  and 
Colonel  Breuer  issued  the  following  manifesto : 

TACAMBARO,  October  24,  1865. 
To  the  Representatives  of  the  Belgian  Nation  : 

GENTLEMEN  :  The  Mexican  question  has  frequently  been  dis- 
cussed by  you,  but  the  chief  point  has  been  the  legality  or  ille- 
gality of  recruiting  for  the  Belgian  legion.  Now,  however,  an 
event  of  great  gravity  obliges  us  to  call  your  attention  to  it 
anew.  The  lives  of  two  hundred  Belgian  prisoners  are  invol- 
ved. Considering  the  question  some  time  back,  the  force  was 
intended  solely  as  a  guard  of  honor  voluntarily  offered  for  the 
protection  of  a  Belgian  princess.  The  emperor,  disregarding 
the  special  service  for  which  the  legion  was  destined  and  the 
neutrality  of  the  Belgian  nation,  ordered  us  to  take  the  field, 
and  being  Belgian  soldiers,  we  obeyed,  and  marched  to  the 
front  cheerfully,  animated  by  the  love  of  war.  Although  we 
achieved  triumphs,  we  also,  unfortunately,  sustained  reverses, 
and  two  hundred  of  us  Belgians  are  prisoners.  "Without  taking 
our  position  into  consideration,  the  emperor  recently  issued  a  de- 
cree which  may  cause  terrible  results.  It  announ ces  to  the  repub- 
licans that  after  the  15th  of  November^  all  persons  caught  with 
arms  in  their  hands  will  be  shot.  At  the  commencement  of 
this  month  an  imperialist  colonel,  named  Mendez — an  ex-re- 
publican, who  sold  himself  to  the  empire — a  man  hating  the 
Belgians,  took  a  large  number  of  prisoners  from  the  republican 
army  in  a  fight,  including  two  generals,  and  several  officers  of 
high  rank,  whom  he  caused  to  be  shot,  without  regard  to  mili- 
tary law,  and  without  waiting  for  the  expiration  of  the  period 
fixed  by  the  decree,  stating  after  the  execution,  to  persons  who 


SYMPATHY   FOB   MAXIMILIAN.  •      329 

» 

remonstrated  with  him  upon  the  enormity  of  the  deed :  "  What 
matters  it  ?  They  can  only  revenge  themselves  upon  the  Bel- 
gians." This  alluded  to  the  fact  that  all  the  other  (French) 
prisoners  had  been  exchanged. 

We  expected  that  all  the  Belgian  prisoners  would  be  put  to 
death ;  but  the  republic  of  Mexico  being  great  and  generous, 
like  all  free  nations,  deferred  to  act  until  after  learning  the  ac- 
tion of  the  administration  of  the  empire  toward  this  Colonel 
Mendez. 

The  emperor  is  very  fond  of  this  man.  He  has  already  sac- 
rificed our  brave  colonel,  and  he  may  sacrifice  the  lives  of  all 
the  Belgian  prisoners. 

Gentlemen,  it  is  incumbent  upon  you  to  intervene.  The 
Belgian  legion  desired  long  since  to  return  to  its  native  coun- 
try. It  did  not  wish  to  take  part  in  this  iniquitous  war,  or  to 
serve  longer  under  an  empire  wherein  such  deeds  are  allowed 
to  be  committed. 

Representatives  of  the  nation,  your  duty  calls  you  to  act 
wherever  the  Belgian  name  is  at  stake.  This  is  not  a  question 
of  party,  but  of  nationality. 

Representatives  of  Belgium,  remember  our  motto,  "Unity 
and  Strength."  It  behooves  you  to  speak.  We  call  upon  you 
in  the  name  of  Belgium,  whose  honest  confidence  has  been 
abused.  Representatives  of  Belgium,  it  behooves  you  to  see 
that  the  blood  of  Belgians  be  not  sacrificed.  In  the  name  of 
the  country  do  your  duty. 

BKETJER, 
On  'behalf  of  the  Belgian  prisoners  taken  ~by  the  Republican, 

army. 

But  "  whom  the  Gods  would  destroy  they  first  make 
mad."  Maximilian  never  disowned  the  act,  nor  raised 
his  finger  to  put  a  stop  to  the  other  butcheries  which , 
followed,  and  Mendez  continued  in  his  favor  to  the  end. 
The  tide  turned  at  last,  and  Escobedo  was  compelled 
to  shoot  one  hundred  and  sixty-three  foreign  mercena- 
ries, taken  prisoners  by  him  in  the  battle  with  Miramon 


330      .  AJtfCL£NT    AZTEC    RELICS. 

i 

when  the  latter  was  defeated  at  Zacatacas.  Then,  the 
whole  United  States  rung  with  lamentations  and  de- 
nunciations of  "this  act  of  barbarism,"  on  his  part. 
Maximilian  was  hunted  down  and  brought  to  the  Cerro 
de  Las  Campanas,  to  receive  the  punishment  due  to  a 
fillibuster,  robber,  and  murderer  of  prisoners  of  war,  and 
the  royal  sufferer  had  all  our  sympathy.  Is  this  impar- 
tial justice  between  man  and  man  ? 

The  business  of  "  finding  "  Aztec  relics,  pottery,  etc., 
etc.,  is  carried  on  here  and  in  the  vicinity  quite  exten- 
sively, and  there  is  good  reason  to  suppose  that  many 
of  the  articles  thus  brought  to  light  from  time  to  time, 
are  veritable  relics  of  that  ancient  race.  I  am  indebted 
to  Senor  Miron  of  Vera  Cruz,  for  some  recently  dug  up 
at  Medalin,  which  are  undoubteoUy  genuine.  On  the 
other  hand,  many  articles  of  pottery  in  the  form  of  hid- 
eous, half-human,  half-brute  monstrosities,  which  I  have 
had  offered  me  as  relics  recently  exhumed  from  the  an. 
cient  burial  mounds  and  ruined  temples,  I  am  satisfied 
had  not  been  buried  a  year,  and  I  would  not  pay  the 
freight  on  them  to  San  Francisco  if  they  were  given  to 
me. 

All  around  the  Lakes  of  Mexico  there  are  traces  of 
ancient  potteries,  and  I  noticed  that  the  bits  of  broken 
red  earthenware  scattered  about  them,  are  identical,  in 
composition  and  color,  with  those  I  have  picked  up  in 
the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  supposed  to  be  rel- 
ics of  the  ancient  mound-builders. 

Among  the  veritable  relics  of  the  Aztecs  over  the 
authenticity  of  which  there  can  be  no  question,  may  be 
mentioned  the  great  Aztec  calendar,  cut  on  the  face  of 
an  irregular  block  of  lava  from  Popocatapetl,  some 
twelve  feet  in  height  by  ten  in  breadth,  which  has  been 


THE     GREAT   SACRIFICIAL    STONE.  331 

so  often  described  by  travelers  and  scientific  men,  from 
Cortez  to  Humboldt,  and  from  Hmnboldt  down.  This 
is  now  built  into  the  western  wall  of  the  great  Cathe- 
dral of  Mexico,  and  can  be  seen  and  inspected  by  ev- 
erybody. 

But  more  interesting  than  this,  is  the  collection  which 
I  found,  lying  heaped  carelessly  together,  and  unguarded 
from  Vandal  hands,  in  the  patio  of  one  of  the  old  Con- 
vents— now  a  school  for  young  ladies — near  the  Palacio 
Nacional.  If  this  collection  was  left  thus  unguarded, 
at  the  mercy  of  the  relic  hunters  of  the  United  States 
or  Europe,  there  would  not  be  a  piece  as  large  as  a 
chestnut  left  in  forty-eight  hours.  The  people  who  cut 
into  infinitesimal  chips,  the  three  last  ties,  and  broke  into 
fragments  and  carried  off,  within  two  hours,  the  last 
iron  rail  of  the  Pacific  railroad,  or  those  ladies(?)  who 
rushed  to  the  place  at  the  table  at  which  the  Prince  of 
Wales  had  been  sitting  in  an  English  town  a  few 
months  since,  and  quarreled  and  fought  for  the  pos- 
session of  the  cherry  stones  which  he  had  spit  out  of  his 
mouth,  would  make  short  work  of  them. 

The  chief  of  these  relics  is  the  great  sacrificial  stone, 
a  block  of  fine-grained  lava,  shaped  like  a  mill-stone, 
ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  over  three  feet  in  thickness, 
covered  with  boldly  sculptured  figures,  and  elaborately 
wrought  on  every  part.  In  the  center  of  this  stone  is 
a  basin,  holding  about  as  much  as  an  ordinary  Ameri- 
can wooden  pail,  into  which  the  blood  of  the  human 
victims  ran,  when  the  Priests  of  the  Sun,  cut  open  their 
bosoms  with  flint  knives  and  tore  out  their  living  hearts. 
From  this  basin  a  channel  cut  in  the  face  of  the  stone 
conducted  the  blood  to  the  side,  from  whence  it  ran 
down  into  a  large  stone  trough,  which  is  now  to  be  seen 


A   CITY   UNDER   A   CITY. 

near  the  great  stone  itself.  Thousands  of  victims  per- 
ished on  this  stone ;  some  say  hundreds  of  thousands ; 
and  the  blood  so  permeated  the  porous  lava  that  the 
dark  red  stain  can  still  be  distinguished,  after  the  lapse 
of  more  than  three  centuries. 

The  hideous  idols,  serpents,  and  other  monstrosities 
— all  rudely  cut  from  great  blocks  of  lava — which 
adorned  the  temple  of  Cholula,  lie  piled  against  the 
wall,  neglected  and  covered  with  dust,  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  great  altar  stone.  I  am  told  that  this  huge  sac- 
rificial stone — contrary  to  the  common  belief — is  not 
that  which  adorned  the  great  temple  of  Tenochtitlan 
which  stood  on  the  site  of  the  great  Cathedral  of  our 
day,  but  was  brought  from  Cholula.  It  must  have 
been  a  tremendous  feat  to  move  such  a  heavy  weight 
so  great  a  distance,  over  such  roads,  and  without  steam 
power.  The  veritable  sacrificial  stone  of  the  great 
temple  of  Tenochtitlan,  is  said  to  lie  buried  under  the 
Cathedral,  where  the  great  cross  is  now  erected,  and  it 
is  certain  that  the  bones  of  many  thousands  of  hu- 
man beings  supposed  to  have  perished  upon  it,  fill  all 
the  ground  where  the  Cathedral  stands. 

It  is  believed  by  many,  that  nearly  all  the  old  city 
of  Tenochtitlan — the  Aztec  name  of.  Mexico — is  buried 
under  the  present  city,  and  some  even  assert  that  be- 
low that  are  to  be  found  ruins  of  a  still  older  city, 
built  by  a  race  before  the  Aztecs.  However  that  may 
be,  it  is  evident  that  Tenochtitlan  was  built  on  an  un- 
healthy marsh  much  below  the  level  of  the  streets  of 
Mexico,  and  nearly  surrounded  by  water.  The  founda- 
tions of  buildings  in  the  present  city  are  laid  very  deep, 
and  the  walls  are  immensely  thick.  All  over  the  city, 
wherever  an  excavation  is  made  for  building,  old  Aztee 


AMERICAN    ORIGIN   OF   THE   AZTECS.  333 

relics  are  thrown  up.  Probably  no  city  in  the  world 
now  inhabited,  has  so  many  relics  of  ancient  days  bur- 
ied beneath  it.  The  accumulation  of  centuries  has 
gradually  raised  the  surface  of  the  whole  city,  and 
buildings  erected  a  hundred  or  two  hundred  years 
since  have  lost  the  whole,  or  a  portion  of  their  lower 
stories,  in  many  instances.  At  the  residence  of  Mr. 
Hanunekin,  Calle  Independencia,  No.  1,  which  com- 
prises a  portion  of  the  old  Convent  of  San  Francisco, 
I  was  shown  a  well  twelve  feet  in  depth,  the  bottom  of 
which  is  what  was  formerly  the  surface  of  the  ground  in 
the  patio,  and  the  marks  of  old  stair-cases,  etc.,  etc.,  on  the 
walls  of  the  lower  story,  show  that  the  filling  in  to 
bring  it  to  the  present  level  of  the  streets,  could  not  be 
less  than  six  to  twelve  feet. 

Sefior  Altamirano,  the  best  Aztec  scholar  living, 
claims  that  the  proof  is  conclusive  that  the  Aztecs  did 
not  come  here  from  Asia,  as  has  been  almost  univer- 
sally believed,  but  were  a  race  originated  in  America 
and  as  old  as  the  Chinese  themselves,  and  that  China 
may  even  have  been  peopled  from  America.  He  points 
out  on  their  old  maps  and  charts,  various  things  which 
Humboldt  misunderstood  and  by  which  he  was  led  into 
error,  and  demonstrates  that  the  Aztecs,  indeed,  occu- 
pied Arizona  in  the  fifteenth  century  as  Humboldt  sup- 
posed, but  only  as  a  colony  sent  out  from  the  Valley 
of  Mexico — not  as  a  people  making  a  temporary  halt 
on  a  long  march  in  search  of  a  new  home.  If  he  is 
correct — and  I  think  he  is — extensive  excavations  in 
the  "  made  land "  of  Mexico,  would  result  in  interest- 
ing revelations. 

I  had  often  heard  the  great  Nacional  Monte  de  Pie- 
dad  of  Mexico,   spoken  of  in  terms  of   unqualified 


334  NACIONAL    MONTE    DE    PIEDAD    OP   MEXICO. 

praise,  before  my  coming  to  the  country,  and  it  was 
therefore,  with  not  a  little  pleasure  that  I  accepted  the 
kind  invitation  of  the  director,  Senor  Don  Francisco 
De  P.  Cendejas,  to  inspect  it  in  all  its  details,and  accom- 
panied my  kind  friend  Colonel  Enrique  A.  Mejia,  to 
the  place. 

This  great  establishment  was  founded,  not  as  a  mat- 
ter of  speculation,  but  as  an  act  of  practical  Christian 
charity,  by  Pedro  Romero  de  Torres  Count  de  Regla, 
who  on  the  2d  day  of  June  1774,  gave  three  hundred 
thousand  dollars  in  coin,  for  a  perpetual  fund  for  loans, 
and  himself  wrote  out  the  rules  and  regulations  under 
which,  with  some  modifications,  it  is  conducted  to  this 
day. 

The  object  of  the  pious  and  philanthropic  founder, 
was  to  provide  the  poor  and  temporarily  needy,  with  a 
place  where  they  could  deposit  whatever  they  might 
have  of  valuables  in  safety,  and  obtain  upon  them  an 
advance  in  coin,  at  such  a  rate  of  interest  as  would  not 
put  it  out  of  their  power  to  reclaim  them ;  thus  pro- 
tecting  them,  effectually,  from  the  rapacity  of  the  pro- 
prietors of  the  old-fashioned  pawn-broker's  shops ;  and 
how  well  he  succeeded  the  present  condition  of  the 
institution  testifies. 

The  Spanish  Vice  Rey  of  Mexico,  designated  for  the 
use  of  the  institution,  the  great  and  magnificent  house 
erected  by  Hernando  Cortez  for  his  own  use,  immedi- 
ately after  the  conquest,  and  into  which  he  built 
the  great  cedar  beam  found  in  possession  of  the 
Aztecs,  which  was  regarded,  for  its  immense  size, 
as  a  curiosity  in  its  day,  comparable  with  the  great  trees 
of  California  in  ours,  with  a  certain  amount  of  relig- 
ious veneration  thrown  in.  That  beam  nearly  cost  him 


THE   HOUSE    OF   HERlSrAlSTDO    COKTEZ.  335 

his  position,  in  spite  of  all  he  had  done  for  the  glory 
of  God  in  the  way  of  butchering  Indians,  and  the 
honor  and  aggrandizement  of  the  Kingdom  of  Spain, 
in  acquiring  by  fraud  and  violence  the  mighty  domin- 
ion of  Mexico.  It  is  still  sound,*  and  uninjured  by 
time,  though  it  has  been  removed  to  the  Museum  as  a 
public  curiosity,  and  no  longer  occupies  its  old  place 
in  the  structure. 

The  building  fronts  upon  the  grand  plaza,  opposite 
the  great  cathedral  of  Mexico,  and  is  almost  in  the  ex- 
act condition  to-day  in  which  it  was  left,  when  its 
great  founder  died,  more  than  three  hundred  years 
ago.  The  same  cedar  beams  support  the  roofs  of  all 
the  grand  halls  and  corridors,  and  the  hideous  heads, 
sculptured  by  his  command  and  placed  in  his  presence 
over  the  doors  and  windows,  still  look  down  on  the 
visitor  with  their  derisive  grin,  as  they  did  before  the 
Pilgrims  landed  on  Plymouth  Rock.  The  very  stair- 
cases, with  steps  cut  from  great  blocks  of  fine-grained 
lava  from  Popocatepetl,  which  he  ascended,  are  ascended 
by  the  visitor  to-day ;  and  in  the  great  patio  you  walk 
over  the  flag-stones  trod  many  a  time,  and  oft,  by  the 
grandest  fillibuster  and  most  pious  and  heroic  butcher 
of  all  time. 

On  the  25th  of  February  1775,  this  great  establish- 
ment was  solemnly  dedicated  to  the  honor  of  God  and 
the  good  of  mankind,  and  thrown  open  to  the  public. 
From  that  day  to  this  it  has  never  been  closed,  and  its 
business  has  continued  uninterruptedly,  though  earth- 
quakes have  shaken  its  walls,  though  men  and  king- 
doms have  passed  away,  and  the  whole  political  and  so- 
cial aspect  of  the  world  has  changed.  Revolution  after 
revolution  has  culminated  in  the  grand  plaza  in  front, 
or  the  palace  beyond ;  but  within  its  thick  and  solid 


330  THE  MODEL  PAWNBROKER'S  SHOP. 

walls,  all  has  been  quiet ;  and  silently  and  undisturbed, 
the  work  planned  by  its  founder,  has  gone  on  day  by 
day,  as  it  will  go  on  years  on  years  after  the  writer,  and 
the  reader  of  to-day,  shall  have  been  forgotten. 

I  can  conceive  of  no  more  perfect  system  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  interest  of  the  borrower,  than  that  upon 
which  this  institution  is  operated  to-day ;  and  I  wish  it 
were  possible  for  us  to  establish  such  a  bank  in  every 
city  in  the  United  States. 

You — no  my  friend,  some  other  man — must  raise 
funds  to  meet  a  temporary — it  is  to  be  hoped — emer- 
gency. A  watch,  or  diamond  ring,  or.  some  other  valu- 
able is  offered  as  security  at  the  National  Monte  de 
Piedad.  Two  valuators  are  called  on  to  pass  upon  it. 
They  make  their  estimates,  separately,  and  then  on 
comparison  of  the  two,  the  medium  is  adopted.  On 
diamonds  and  other  precious  stones,  and  similar  articles 
of  unchanging  value,  the  bank  will  loan  up  to  seven- 
eighths  of  the  agreed  valuation,  and  on  articles  of  less 
determined  and  permanent  value,  a  lesser  sum,  accord- 
ing to  circumstances;  the  average  being  much  more 
than  could  be  obtained  on  the  same  articles  in  the  Uni- 
ted, States,  by  a  stranger,  at  an  ordinary  pawnbrokers. 

The  interest  varies,  according  to  .the  time  on  which 
the  loan  is  made,  and  the  amount.  The  lowest  rate  is 
about  three  per  cent.,  and  the  average  nine  and  three- 
quarter  per  cent,  per  annum,  on  all  the  transactions  of 
the  institution.  You— no,  our  friends— borrow  money 
for  a  year,  and  can  pay  interest  on  the  loan  and  have  it 
carried  on  for  any  number  of  years,  if  desired. 

When  interest  is  no  longer  paid,  the  article  pawned 
is  kept  in  the  vaults  for  seven  months,  and  then  taken 
out  and  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  official  valuator 


ITS    CEOTENIAL    ANNIVERSARY.  337 

who  estimates  its  market  value,  and  places  the  figures 
upon  the  ticket.  From  his  hands,  it  passes  into  the 
sales-room,  where  it  is  exposed  for  sale  for  one  month, 
at  the  price  fixed  by  the  valuator.  If  not  sold  at  that 
sum  during  the  month,  it  is  again  re- valued,  the  price 
being  reduced,  and  again  placed  on  sale  for  a  month. 
And  so  on  for  five  months.  If  at  the  end  of  a  year 
from  its  forfeiture,  or  five  months  from  its  first  exposure 
for  sale,  it  still  remains  unsold,  it  is  offered  at  public 
auction,  and  if  it  fails  to  bring  as  much  as  the  loan  and 
interest,  the  public  valuator  must  refund  to  the  bank 
the  amount  of  the  deficit,  from  his  own  purse. 

If,  on  the  other  hand, — as  is  generally  the  case — it 
brings  more  than  the  amount  due  the  bank,  then  the 

O  ' 

surplus  is  placed  on  deposit  to  the  credit  of  the  party 
who  obtained  the  loan,  and  it  remains  subject  to  his  or- 
der, or  the  order  of  "  his  heirs,  executors,  administrators 
and  assigns,"  for  one  hundred  years.  If  it  is  not  claimed 
within  the  century,  it  is  reasonably  supposed  that  the 
depositor  has  died  intestate,  or  moved  to  some  other  lo- 
cality, and  the  money  belongs  to  the  bank.  The  cen- 
tenial  anniversary  of  the  foundation  of  the  establish- 
ment is  now  near  at  hand,  and  after  that  there  will  be 
many  such  sums  forfeited  annually. 

Three  sets  of  books  are  kept,  viz.,  those  of  the  "  Conta- 
'lurin"  " Depositarin"  and  "  Tesoreria"  and  the  ticket 
must  exactly  agree  with,  and  the  article  be  identified 
from  each,  before  it  can  be  given  up  or  disposed  of.  The 
smallest  sum  loaned  is  one  dollar,  and  the  largest  four 
thousand  dollars ;  but  it  is  now  intended  to  change  the 
law  so  as  to  admit  of  loans  being  made  up  to  ten  thou- 
sand dollars.  No  loans  are  made  upon  real  estate  or 
any  kind  of  goods  not  deposited  in  the  vaults.  The 
22 


338  HOW    THE    PROFITS    HAVE    BEEN    INVESTED. 

profits  of  the  business  were,  for  seventy-five  years,  de- 
voted to  paying  for  masses  for  the  repose  of  the  soul 
of  the  pious  founder  of  the  institution ;  but  as  a  gen- 
tleman connected  with  the  institution  naively  remarked 
to  me,  "  it  is  fair  to  suppose  that  after  seventy-five  years 
of  prayer,  one's  soul  will  be  out  of  hot  water  if  ever," 
and  the  masses  are  now  discontinued,  and  the  annual 
profits  applied  to  the  founding  of  branch  establish- 
ments, of  which  there  are  three  now  in  the  city. 

The  original  capital  of  three  hundred  thousand  dol- 
lars is  still  intact,  and  in  addition  there  are  accumula- 
tions and  deposits  to  the  amount  of  four  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars,  so  that  the  capital  actually  now  in  use,  is 
seven  hundred  thousand  dollars.  Last  year  the  number 
of  loans  made  at  this  parent  bank  was  one  hundred 
thousand  in  round  numbers,  and  the  aggregate  of  the 
amounts  loaned,  one  million  six  hundred  thousand  dol- 
lars, or  an  average  of  sixteen  dollars  to  each  loan.  The 
number  of  loans  seldom  falls  below  two  hundred  in  a 
day,  and  often  reaches  two  thousand.  Of  all  the  arti- 
cles deposited  in  the  bank  as  security  for  loans,  about 
two  thirds  are  ultimately  redeemed.  The  bank,  in  any 
event,  never  loses.  If  after  all  precautions,  an  article 
is  found  to  have  been  stolen  before  being  pawned,  the 
owner  must  repay  the  amount  loaned. 

Senor  Cendejas,  in  order  to  accustom -the  Mexican 
people  to  the  use  of  paper  money  in  some  shape,  and  to 
encourage  them  in  accumulating  and  laying  it  up  against 
future  contingencies,  has  introduced  the  system  of  re- 
ceiving "confidential  deposits,"  for  which  the  bank 
issues  certificates  payable  to  bearer  at  sight,  which  arc 
now  current  for  their  face  at  any  point  in  the  Republic. 
The  \bank  also  receives  jewelry,  plate,  diamonds,  and 


- 
THE    THREE    GKATSTD    DIVISIONS.  339 

other  not  bulky  valuables  on  deposit  for  safe  keeping, 
the  owner  being  required  to  make  only  a  nominal  loan 
of  one  dollar  upon  them,  in  order  to  bring  it  into  the 
books  of  the  institution.  It  also  takes  on  deposit,  in 
trust,  from  the  courts,  all  moneys  in  dispute,  and  the 
proceeds  of  unsettled  estates,  and  receives  one  or  two 
per  cent,  per  annum  for  ensuring  its  safety.  It  is  con- 
templated also  to  found  a  savings-bank  feature  of  the 
institution,  and  by  putting  the  money  at  interest,  aid 
the  depositors  to  increase  their  funds  without  risk. 

There  are  three  grand  divisions;  one  devoted  to 
clothing,  another  to  miscellaneous  goods,  and  the  last 
and  most  important,  to  diamonds,  plate,  and  costly  jew- 
elry. In  this  last  named,  I  saw  goods  piled  up  in 
separate  compartments  in  a  single  room,  valued  at  two 
million  dollars  upon  the  books  of  the  institution,  and 
probably  worth  in  the  United  States,  at  least  four  mil- 
lion dollars  or  five  million  dollars.  The  valuation  of 
diamonds  is  at  about  the  rate  of  sixty  dollars  per  carat, 
for  perfect  stones  of  that  weight, — say,  at  least  thirty- 
three  and  one-third  less  than  the  value  in  our  market ; 
and  I  am  told  that  the  diamonds,  pearls,  rubies, 
and  emeralds,  which  are  sold,  are  largely  purchased  by 
people  going  to  the  United  States  and  Europe  who 
frequently  realize  large  profits  from  their  sale  in  those 
countries.  One  set,  which  sold  that  month  at  the  pub- 
lic sale,  for  five  hundred  dollars,  has  since  been  sold  at 
one  thousand  dollars  to  my  knowledge,  in  New  York, 
and  will  be  sent  to  Europe  to  be  sold  again. 

At  this  time,  when  there  is  an  immense  amount  of 
suffering  among  the  "  middle  classes,"  and  the  old  fami- 
lies, who  were  once  rich,  but  now  deprived  of  all  in- 
come with  no  hopeful  future  before  them,  at  the  same 


340  THE    JEWELS    OF   ISABELLA    ON    PAWN. 

time  that  they  must  struggle  to  "  keep  up  appearances  " 
before  the  world,  the  deposits  of  diamonds,  watches, 
and  fine  jewelry  are  something  enormous,  and  con- 
stantly increasing.  I  was  shown, — under  cover  of  the 
promise  of  secrecy,  of  course — eet  after  set  of  diamonds 
and  pearls  of  great  value,  which  had  adorned  the  per- 
sons of  the  proudest  and  most  haughty  beauties  of  any 
land,  many  of  whom  are  known  to  history.  One  set, 
of  antique  pattern,  but  great  value,  once  adorned  the 
brow  of  "  Isabella  the  Catholic,"  who  sold  them  to  fit 
out  Columbus  for  his  voyage  which  gave  to  Castile  and  to 
Leon,  a  New  World.  I  was  allowed  to  draw  from  its 
solid  gold  and  diamond  incrusted  scabbard,  and  inspect, 
the  sword  of  one  of  the  famous  generals  of  the  early 
part  of  this  century,  on  which  twenty-seven  hundred 
dollars  had  been  loaned. 

Such  a  commentary  on  the  vanity  of  human  pride 
and  ambition  as  may^)e  read  on  each  of  the  four  walls 
of  this  great,  cold,  silent,  vaulted  chamber,  I  do  not 
care  to  read  again.  All  the  forms  Avhich  human  vanity 
assumes  are  there.  The  jeweled  order  bestowed  by 
Iturbide,  or  Santa  Anna,  or  Maximilian,  or  some  Euro- 
pean monarch ;  the  golden  cup  which  figured  at  the 
baptism  of  some  child  of  a  noble  house;  the  silver 
plate  off  which  royal  guests  have  dined ;  the  saint  in 
frame  of  solid  gold ;  the  saddle,  one  mass  of  burnished 
silver,  on  which  the  -successful  revolutionist  rode  in  tri- 
umph ;  the  watch-chain  and  trinkets  of  the  courtezan, 
and  the  jeweled  cross  worn  on  the  bosom  of  the  pious 
and  sainted  mother  of  an  honored  family,  lie  there  side 
by  side,  and  will  go  out  together,  to  be  sold  to  stran- 
gers, and  borne  away  to  strange  lands,  to  be  regarded, 
henceforth  as  curious  mementoes  of  travel  and  adventure, 
and  nothing  more. 


THE    SALES    DEPARTMENT.  341 

It  was  with  a  feeling  as  of  one  coming  forth  from  the 
tombs  of  the  dead  past,  that  I  emerged  from  this  cave 
of  weird  enchantment,  and  stood  once  more  in  the 
cheerful  sunlight  of  day,  while  the  great  iron  door 
closed  with  a  clang,  behind  us. 

In  the  sales  department  I  noticed  an  article  of  some 
value,  which  I  desired  for  a  present  to  one  of  the  dear- 
est of  friends,  and  offered  to  buy  at  the  price  fixed. 
The  salesman  gravely  held  it  up,  and  asked  if  anybody 
present  would  pay  more,  explaining  that  the  law  required 
him  to  do  so ;  and  no  one  responding,  it  was  wrapped 
up  and  handed  to  me.  Then  we  went  into  the  parlor, 
where  Cortez  received  and  entertained  his  guests,  drank 
a  glass  of  the  bright,  yellow  wine  of  old  Spain  from 
Parisian  glasses  with  the  Director,  Senor  Cendejas,  bade 
good  bye  to  one  of  the  most  interesting  localities  I  have 
ever  visited  in  my  life,  and  strolled  out  upon  the  Plaza 
to  look  on  the  richly-clad  women  of  Mexico  with  prayer 
books  in  their  hands,  walking  with  grave,  decorous  si- 
lence towards  the  great  Cathedral ;  and  the  thousands 
of  ragged  bare-footed  Indians,  from  villages  twenty-five, 
fifty,  or  a  hundred  miles  away,  bearing  great  burthens 
on  their  backs,  as  they  trudged  patiently  along,  on  their 
annual  pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  of  their  adored  Saint 
and  Holy  Mother  and  protector  of  their  race,  the  Virgin 
of  Guadaloupe. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

EELIGION  AND  AET. 

X 

~^HE  story  of  the  apparition, — or  rather — numerous 
apparitions  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  commonly  known 
by  the  appellation  of  the  "  Virgin  of  Guadaloupe,"  in 
December,  1531,  immediately  after  the  conquest  of 
Mexico,  to  the  Indian  convert,  Juan  Diego,  and  the  sub- 
sequent erection  of  the  church  of  that  name  on  the 
spot,  has  been  often  told  by  historians  and  travelers,  and 
I  need  not  again  relate  it  in  detail. 

Suffice  it  then  to  say,  that  on  the  12th  of  December 
1531,  the  pious  Juan  Diego,  praying  by  night  on  the 
volcanic  hill  of  Guadaloupe,  about  three  miles  outside 
the  north-eastern  gate  of  Mexico,  and  some  five  miles 
from  the  grand  plaza,  saw  the  Virgin,  clad  in  robes  of 
wonderous  splendor,  with  a  face  dark  as  that  of  the  In- 
dians, but  radiant  with  a  light  not  of  earth,  standing 
above  in  the  air.  She  told  him  that  in  order  to  save 
the  Indians  of  Mexico,  and  prove  to  them  tha't  she  was 
indeed  their  Mother,  she  had  appeared  in  this  complex- 
ion, and  desired  him  to  go  to  the  Bishop  of  Mexico  and 
tell  him  that  it  was  her  wish,  that  in  her  honor  a  church 
should  be  erected  at  that  point.  He  was  so  astonished 
at  the  apparition  that  he  dropped  his  sombrero  from  his 
hand, — you  can  see  the  same  old  hat  there  now  just  as 
he  dropped  it — nevertheless,  he  rallied  his  wits,  and 
talked  back  until  he  was  satisfied  that  he  had  the  full 
purport  of  the  message,  and  then  hurried  off  to  the 


OUR    LADY    OF    GUADALOUPE.  343 

Bishop's  Palace  and  told  the  illustrious  Senor  Don 
Fray  Juan  Zuinarraga,  first  Bishop  of  Mexico,  what  he 
had  seen  and  heard. 

The  Bishop  listened,  but  doubted.  In  sore  trouble 
Juan  Diego  went  back  to  the  hill,  and  at  its  foot  the 
Virgin  again  appeared  to  him,  and  repeated,  in  sub- 
stance, her  first  message,  adding,  that  the  Holy  Mother 
Church  would  never  be  blessed  in  Mexico,  until  the 
church  was  erected  in  her  honor  at  the  point  she  had 
indicated.  A  great,  flowing  well  or  spring  of  mineral 
water,  dark  and  turbid,  but  excellent  for  scrofula  and 
other  diseases  of  the  body  and  the  soul,  burst  out  from 
the  rock  where  she  stood  this  time,  and  it  is  flowing  yet ; 
I  drank  some  of  the  water  just  three  hundred  and 
thirty -eight  years,  to  a  day,  thereafter,  and  it  did-  not 
make  me  seriously  sick.  He  went  back  to  the  Bishop, 
and  still  the  worthy  prelate  doubted. 

A  third  time  she  appeared  to  him,  and  told  him  to 
carry,  as  a  proof  of  his  story,  to  the  Bishop,  a  bunch  of 
full-blown  roses,  such  as  do  not  bloom,  even  in  Mexico, 
in  midwinter.  He  wrapped  them  in  his  blanket  and 
hurried  to  the  Bishop.  When  the  latter  unrolled  the 
bundle,  and  saw  the  roses,  his  unbelief  was  disturbed ; 
but  when  the  roses  fell  apart  and  disclosed  a  beautiful 
picture  of  the  Holy  Virgin,  miraculously  painted  on  the 
coarse  cloth  of  the  country,  the  dark  face  glowing  with 
sacred  light,  he  knew  that  the  message  was  indeed  of 
Heaven,  and  falling  on  his  knees,  he  kissed  the  hem  of 
her  garment,  and  declared  that  the  church  should  be 
erected  as  ordered. 

When  the  Spaniards,  under  Cortez,  escaped  from 
Mexico  on  the  Noche  Triste,  one  of  the  soldiers  dropped 
a  rag-doll,  or  image,  and  on  their  return  in  triumph, 


344  THE    STOIIY    OF    THE    APPARITIONS. 

they  found  it  unharmed,  and  christened  it  "  Our  Lady 
of  the  Remedies."  They  built  her  a  great  church,  and 
she  was  the  patron  saint  of  Mexico  until  the  Guada- 
loupe  arose  to  contest  the  devotion  of  the  populace 
with  her.  The  war  was  long  and  bitter,  but  the  Indi- 
ans outnumbered  the  Spaniards  Een  to  one,  though  con- 
quered,  and  they  had  not  a  single  Indian  saint  in  the 
calendar — they  have  not  one  to  this  day,  though  many 
saints  have  been  canonized  in  Mexico — and  a  brown- 
skinned  Virgin  was  something  worth  fighting  for.  The 
Guadaloupe  triumphed,  and  to  this  day  her  shrine  is 
sought  annually  by  the  Indians  of  all  Central  Mexico, 
while  that  of  our  Lady  of  the  Remedios  is  almost  de- 
serted. 

Subsequent  to  the  third  apparition,  the  Virgin  of 
Guadaloupe  appeared  to  others,  and  directed  where 
each  structure  should  be  raised.  On  the  top  of  the 
hill,  where  she  first  appeared  to  Juan  Diego,  they  raised 
a  magnificent  chapel  in  her  honor :  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  where  the  spring  burst  out,  they  erected  a  chapel 
over  the  well,  and  a  small  but  costly  church  in  the  rear ; 
and  where  she  delivered  to  him  the  roses  inclosing  the 
miraculous  picture  of  herself,  they  built  a  church 
which,  though  despoiled  of  much  of -its  former  wealth 
of  gold  and  silver,  is  still  a  mine  of  the  precious  metals, 
a  marvel  to  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  and 
in  the  eyes  of  the  poor  Indians  of  Mexico  the  holiest 
shrine  on  earth. 

For  two  centuries,  it  was  no  uncommon  thing  for  one 
hundred  thousand  people  to  be  gathered  in  and  around 
the  church  and  chapels  of  Guadaloupe  on  the  anniver. 
sary  of  her  apparition  to  Juan  Diego,  and  from  the  1st  to 
the  15th  of  December,  the  place  was  one  of  daily  resort 
for  thousands  on  thousands  of  devout  worshipers.  A 


THE    SHRINE    OF    GUADALOUPE. 


345 


raised  roadway  paved  with  lava,  and  furnished  with 
fourteen  turnouts,  or  wide  stations,  each  with  a  chapel, 
commemorative  of  the  fourteen  chief  incidents  in  the 
life  of  Our  Savior,  are  constructed  from  the  northern 
gate  of  the  city,  to 
the  enclosure  of  the 
church   of   Guada- 
loupe,    and     along 
this     a     thousand 
penitents  might  be 
seen  at  once  crawl- 
ing on  their  knees 
o 

the  entire  distance, 

stopping    at    each 

station     to    spend 

some  time  in  prayer 

and  med  i  t  a  t  i  o  n. 

Of  late  .years  the 

fanaticism    of   the 

devotees     at     the 

shrine    of    Guada- 

loupe     has    fallen 

away,  and  the  attendance  is  less  great— though  still, 

almost  incredibly  large. 

The  Indians  come  from  all  their  villages  within  a  ra- 
dius of  one  hundred  miles  at  least,  on  foot,  packing 
their  luggage  and  loads  of  fruit  and  vegetables  to  be 
sold  to  procure  funds  for  offerings  at  the  shrine,  all 
way  on  their  backs.     Men  and  women,  boys  and  young 
girls,  tramp  along  barefooted  over  the  dusty  and  stony 
roads,  sleeping  by  the  roadside  at  night;  and  children 
too  small  to  walk,  are  carried  on  their  parents  shoul- 
ders, all  the  way.     Even  the  donkeys  and  dogs  belong- 
ing to  the  family  accompanying  them,  and  it  is  no  un. 


FLAGELLANTES   OP  TWENTY   YEARS    AGO. 


346  THE    GKEAT    ANNUAL   PILGRIMAGE. 

common  thing  to  see  a  comely  young  Indian  girl,  with  a 
sufficient  dash  of  Spanish  blood  in  her  veins  to  cause 
her  cheek  to  bloom  like  the  sunny  side  of  a  yellow  ap- 
ricot, trudging  along  with  a  pet  puppy  in  her  arms,  car- 
rying him  to  taste  the  holy  waters  of  the  miraculous 
spring  of  Guadaloupe. 

A  railroad  now  runs  along  the  road  of  the  Penitents, 
and  pilgrims  are  seldom  seen  crawling  along  on  their 
hands  and  knees,  as  of  yore.  I  went  out  there  on  Sun- 
day, December  12th,  on  the  holy  anniversary.  The 
road  all  the  way  from  the  northern  gate  to  Guadaloupe, 
was  so  blocked  with  ox-carts,  mule-carts,  saddle-horses, 
and  carriages,  all  bearing  visitors  to  the  shrine,  that  we 
could  hardly  force  our  coach  along ;  and  the  multitude 
on  foot,  raised  such  a  dust  as  almost  to  stifle  us.  We 
saw  but  one  person — a  poor  old  woman — crawling 
along  upon  the  knees,  by  the  side  of  the  road ;  all  the 
rest  marched,  or  rode,  straight  ahead.  The  cars  went 
loaded.  Most  of  the  people  in  the  better  class  of  car- 
riages, and  in  the  cars,  were  wholly,  or  partially,  of  Eu- 
ropean blood ;  but  all  those  on  foot,  or  in  carts,  were 
Indians.  The  former  generally  appeared  to  go  to  see 
what  was  to  be  seen ;  the  latter  all  went,  unmistakably, 
to  worship. 

We  got  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  church, 
and  leaving  the  carriage,  made  our  way  with  difficulty 
through  the  motly  crowd  into  the  plaza  in  front  of  the 
church.  There  were  probably  twenty-five  thousand  to 
thirty  thousand  people,  of  all  ages,  sexes,  and  conditions 
there,  and  they  were  going  and  coming  all  the  time. 

All  the  bells  in  the  towers  of  the  church — some 
twenty  in  number — began  ringing  at  once,  and  the 
air  was  filled  with  their  melody.  Those  old  Span- 


SCENE    WITHIN   THE    CHURCH.  347 

ish  padres  were  wonderful  bell-makers.  With  the  very 
rudest  appliances,  and  only  charcoal  for  fuel,  they  man- 
aged to  cast  here  in  Mexico,  three  centuries  and  more 
ago,  better,  and  sweeter-toned  bells,  than  we  in  the 
United  States  or  Europe  are  able  to  produce  to-day, 
with  "  all  the  modern  improvements "  and  unlimited 
means  at  our  command. 

At  last,  after  infinite  toil  and  jostling  and  pushing 
through  the  ragged  and  swarthy  crowd,  we  reached  the 
church  door,  and  entered  it.  The  whole  worn  and 
worm-eaten  floor  of  the  great  edifice  was  covered  with 
kneeling  Indians,  all  devoutly  repeating  prayers,  and 
many  carrying  lighted  wax-candles  in  their  hands. 
Quietly  as  was  possible  we  worked  our  way  through 
the  crowd,  and  reached  a  central  point  upon  the  floor. 
The  air  was  filled  with  the  incense  burning  in  golden 
censers  around  the  great  altar,  and  yellow  with  the  dust 
which  the  ever-coming  and  going  throng  raised  in  clouds 
from  their  soiled  garments  and  the  dirty  floor. 

The  wealth  once  held  within  these  four  walls  was  aL 
most  fabulous,  and  even  now  when  silver  and  gold  in 
many  places  have  been  replaced  by  baser  metal,  heav- 
ily gilded,  it  is  still  enormous.  The  choir  and  surround- 
ings of  the  great  organ  are  all  of  precious  metal,  and 
the  gallery,  leading  down  from  the  choir  through  the 
center  of  the  church  to  the  great  altar  on  the  north,  has 
on  either  side  a  massive  railing  or  balustrade  of  solid 
silver,  sufficient  in  aggregate  weight  to  load  a  first-class 
railroad  car,  at  least.  The  altar  is  surrounded  by  bur- 
nished metal  on  every  side,  and  all  the  altar  ornaments, 
which  are  almost  numberless,  huge,  and  massive,  are  of 
solid  gold  and  silver. 

Wrapt  devotion  was  on  every  face,  but  the  intense 


348  SALE   OF   BOOKS   AND    CHARMS. 

bigotry  which  once  characterized  the  assemblages  here, 
is  fast  passing  away.  We  stood  erect,  though  bare- 
headed and  silent,  amid  the  vast  kneeling  throng,  and 
not  a  single  reproachful  look,  so  far  as  we  could  see, 
was  cast  upon  us.  Twenty  years  ago,  had  four  heretics 
from  a  distant  land  thus  dared  profane  this  holiest  of 
God's  holiest  temples  with  their  accursed  presence,  their 
lives  might  have  paid  the  forfeit ;  but  while  the  faith 
survives,  the  fierce  fanaticism  is  dead,  and  to-day  we 
were  only  pitied,  not  hated.  The  confiscation  of  the 
Church  property,  and  destruction  of  her  temporal 
power  in  Mexico,  has  done  much  to  bring  about 
this  state  of  things;  and  slowly,  but  surely,  the 
light  of  a  higher  and  nobler  civilization  is  dawning 
on  even  the  most  benighted  portion  of  the  people  of 
Mexico. 

All  around  the  walls  of  the  church  were  tables  at 
which  sleek  priests  sold  little  books  giving  a  full  his- 
tory of  the  Virgin  of  Guadaloupe,  and  ribbons,  each 
about  two  feet  in  length,  on  which  there  was  a  black 
mark  some  six  inches  long,  and  the  inscription  "  The 
true  measure  of  the  face  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadaloupe 
of  Mexico."  These  little  ribbons  are  supposed  to  pos- 
sess great  virtues,  guarding  the  wearer  against  many 
diseases  and  misfortunes,  and  every  pious  visitor,  how- 
ever humble  his  or  her  means,  carries  away  at  least  one 
of  them.  Each  ribbon  is  said  to  have  been  touched  to 
the  divinely  painted  picture  of  the  Virgin,  which,  in- 
closed in  a  solid  gold  frame,  hangs  against  the  northern 
wall  over  the  high  altar.  I  saw  a  half  bushel  of  them 

o 

brought  in  at  once  and  piled  up  on  the  table  before  one 
of  the  priests,  who  spreading  out  his  hands  blessed 
them  in  a  hurried  business-like  manner,  and  then  bow- 


THE    OFFERING    OF   A    SPANISH    HOVER.  349 

ing  politely  to  me  said,  just  as  a  dry  goods  clerk  in 
New  York,  might  have  said : 

"  Yes,  Senor,  one  rial  each,  how  many  will  you  please 
to  have  ?" 

I  took  a  couple  to  carry  home  as  presents  to  some 
young  Catholic  friends,  and  with  them  got  his  blessing 
which  I  propose  to  keep  for  my  own  use. 

On  one  side  of  the  church  I  noticed  a  great  number 
of  rude  pictures  representing  miracles  in  the  way  of 
cures  of  deadly  diseases,  or  direct  interposition  to  save 
the  imperiled  from  instant  death,  performed  by  the 
Blessed  Virgin  of  Guadaloupe.  These  were  hung  there 
by  the  pious  recipients  of  such  favors,  and  they  appear 
to  be  regarded  with  much  reverence  by  the  simple  wor- 
shipers. I  noticed  that  the  paint  on  the  picture  of  the 
Virgin  which  came  down  from  Heaven  with  the  roses 

o 

which  Juan  Diego  delivered  to  the  Bishop,  had  begun 
to  crack  and  peel  with  time,  but  have  no  doubt  but 
that  it  will  be  miraculously  restored  again,  and  it  is 
likely  to  outlast  many  generations  of  mankind  to  come. 
From  the  church  a  winding  pathway  leads  up  the 
steep  face  of  the  rocky  hill  to  the  chapel  on  the  sum- 
mit where  the  Virgin  first  appeared  to  Juan  Diego. 
Half  way  up  the  hill  is  a  curious  structure  of  stone, 
plastered  and  whitewashed,  which  represents  the  sails, 
mast,  and  yard  of  a  ship.  In  fact,  the  mast  of  a  ship 
is  said  to  be  really  built  into  the  masonry.  This  was 
erected  many  years  ago  by  a  pious  old  Spanish  rover, 
who  in  the  hour  of  mortal  peril  on  the  Spanish  Main 
vowed  to  the  Virgin,  that  if  she  would  enable  him  to 
tack,  and  prevent  his  galleon  going  on  the  rocks,  he 
would  do  this  in  her  honor ;  she  did  it ;  and  he  kept 
his  word  like  a  man  and  a  Christian. 


350  TIIE   MIRACULOUS    FOUNTAIlf. 

In  the  chapel,  which  is  richly  ornamented  like  the 
church,  is  the  original  picture  of  Juan  Diego  after  re- 
ceiving his  message  hurrying  to  the  Bishop  to  deliver 
it.  I  was  pained  to  notice  that  the  picture  was  that  of 
a  Spaniard  with  thin  features  and  a  slight  curling  beard 
—not  that  of  an  Indian  at  all.  There  must  have  been 
a  mistake  here  somewhere.  However,  the  old  clothes 
which  Juan  Diego  wore  are  still  there,  and  as  they 
prove  the  truth  of  the  story  in  the  main,  why  should 
we  care  for  a  few  discrepancies  in  the  minor  details. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  just  below  the  main  church, 
we  saw  where  some  enthusiastic  explorer  had  been  bor- 
ing for  oil,  with  regular  Pennsylvania  machinery.  The 
rock  is  purely  volcanic,  and  pitches  directly  away  from 
the  point  where  he  was  boring ;  nevertheless,  if  he  had 
found  oil  there  in  such  a  sacred  place,  it  would  beyond 
doubt  have  been  unusually  valuable  for  illuminating 
and  other  purposes. 

We  worked  our  way  around  to  the  chapel  on  the 
north-east  of  the  church,  which  stands  over  the  great 
flowing  well  of  mineral  water  which  opened  at  the 
touch  of  the  Virgin's  foot.  There  was  a  dense  crowd 
around  it,  and  all  were  drinking  of  its  waters  and  fill, 
ing  jars  and  earthen  jugs  and  bottles  with  it,  to  carry 
away  to  their  homes  to  be  used  as  medicine  until  their 
next  annual  visit.  I  noticed  that  the  copper  kettle  with 
which  the  water  is  drawn  up  from  the  well,  is  chained 
fast ;  but  that  is  the  custom  of  the  country,  and 
must  not  be  construed  into  a  direct  reflection  on  the 
honesty  of  the  pilgrims.  A  Mexican  lady  who  visited 
the  well  with  me,  tasting  the  water  remarked,  "  It  is 
very  disagreeable !"  when  a  woman  standing  by  her 
rebuked  her  with : 


MINERAL    WATERS    AND    GOOD    APPETITES.  351 

"  Yes,  but  you  must  remember  that  it  is  sent  by  the 
Holy  Mother,  and  is  good  both  for  your  body  and  your 
soul !" 

Thousands  come  here  from  long  distances  to  be 
healed  of  scrofula,  etc.,  by  the  waters  of  this  well,  and 
are  healed.  But  then  I  am  compelled  to  add,  that  I 
know  springs  in  Arizona,  Nevada,  and  California,  which 
yield  equally  healing  waters,  beside  which  no  Virgin  is 
known  to  have  ever  appeared  by  any  sort  of  miracle. 

The  Indian-blooded  crowd  appeared  to  regard  the 
festival  as  partaking,  to  some  extent,  of  the  character 
of  a  religious  anniversary  and  a  general  holiday  com- 
bined. Of  the  thousands  who  pushed  and  jostled  each 
other  in  the  plaza  and  the  streets  around  the  church, 
more  than  half  were  eating  something  as  they  went, 
and  in  all  directions  might  be  seen  small  family  parties 
seated  on  the  dusty  ground,  picnicing  with  evident 
hearty  relish  on  the  coarsest  viands.  Dried  meat, 
mainly  that  of  sheep  and  goats,  particularly  the  latter, 
appeared  to  be  the  staple,  and  boiled  or  roasted  cola- 
bras,  or  coarse  pumpkin,  stood  next  in  order.  Here 
you  would  see  a  whole  family* marching  along,  each 
munching  quietly  at  some  part  of  a  dried  goat,  the 
hind  leg,  apparently  having  the  preference,  and  there 
another,  greedily  devouring  pieces  of  cold  boiled  pump- 
kin, without  salt,  pepper,  or  butter.  One  healthy 
young  fellow,  I  noticed  gnawing  away  at  the  head  of 
an  ancient  billy-goat  which  he  held  by  the  horns,  and 
evidently  u  as  happy  and  content  as  Swimley's  boarders, 
the  best  looking  men  in  town,"  etc.  etc. 

Oranges,  bananas,  cheremoyas,  aquacates,  pinons,  and 
other  fruit  and  nuts  were  exposed  on  mats  on  the 
ground,  for  sale,  all  about,  and  the  dealers  in  tortillas 


352  PALACE    OF    THE    INQUISITION. 

and  cakes  of  all  kinds  drove  a  thriving  trade.  It  is 
said  that  pocket-picking  is  one  of  the  chief  features  of 
the  annual  festival  of  Guadaloupe,  and  many  of  my 
friends  have  been  robbed  there  in  the  most  adroit  man- 
ner ;  but  our  party  did  not  suffer  from  any  such  depre- 
dations, and  one  of  us  to  my  certain  knowledge  stood 
in  no  serious  danger  of  heavy  loss  at  that  time. 

The  whole  festival  reminded  me  of  the  annual  pil- 
grimage of  the  common  people  to  the  pagan  shrines  of 
India,  in  some  of  its  features;  nevertheless,  there  was 
an  evident  earnestness  and  religious  conviction  in  the 
manner  of  all  the  worshipers,  which  must  entitle  them 
to  the  respect  of  even  the  greatest  cavilers  and  scoffers 
at  their  form  of  faith.  The  great  mass  of  the  believers 
in  every  faith  in  the  world,  are  honest  and  earnest 
in  their  convictions,  and  these  simple  worshipers  at 
the  shrine  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadaloupe,  are  entitled  to 
the  foremost  rank  in  that  list.  '  If  simple  faith  shall  jus- 
tify and  make  men  whole,  they,  surely,  have  less  to  fear 
and  more  to  hope  for  in  the  future  life,  than  most  of  us 
who  claim  to  hold  more  enlightened  opinions  on  relig- 
ious subjects.  • 

Coming  home,  we  passed  the  old  palace  of  the  Inqui. 
sition,  an  institution  which  flourished  in  all  its  purity 
and  vigor  in  the  Vice  Royalty  of  Mexico  in  its  earlier 
days.  A  grand,  gloomy  old  pile  of  architecture,  writh 
reminiscences  of  untold  horrors  and  cruelties,  indescrib- 
able, clinging  to  every  stone  in  its  massive  walls.  It 
was  confiscated  and  put  to  better  uses  long  ago.  Oppo- 
site it  is  the  ruinous  old  church  of  San  Domingo,  and 
by  its  side,  the  little  plaza  in  which  the  French  under 
the  Empire,  used  to  murder  their  prisoners  of  war  at  day- 
break; the  wall  is  still  pitted  with  the  bullet-marks 


THE   PEOTESTANT   MISSIONS    I1ST    MEXICO.  353 

as  if  it  had  the  small-pox.     Strange,  is  it  not,  that  Mex- 
ico did  not  love  the  Empire  ? 

The  Protestant  movement  in  Mexico  is  something 
which  I  cannot  fully  understand,  and  which  particularly- 
surprised,  and  I  may  say  astonished  me,  more  than 
anything  else  I  witnessed.  I  am  not  a  member  of  any 
church,  and  profess  no  special  creed,  but  as  an  enemy 
of  every  form  of  slavery  and  oppression,  I  cannot  but 
regard  this  Protestant  movement  with  interest  and 
sympathy.  That  it  will  accomplish  all  which  is  expected 
of  it  by  its  friends,  I  am  not  inclined  to  believe ;  but 
that  it  will  be  the  means  of  reforming  the  Catholic 
Church  of  Mexico  and  removing  the  abuses  which 
made  it  a  by- word,  reproach,  and  curse  to  the  country, 
I  regard  as  highly  probable.  I  must  bear  testimony  to 
the  earnestness  and  devotion  of  these  "Evangelical 
Christians  "  of  Mexico,  and  their  wonderful  success.  I 
am  not  inclined  to  meddle  much  with  the  religious  af- 
fairs of  any  people,  but  as  a  matter  of  fact,  and  as  illus- 
trating the  condition  of  the  country,  I  append  the 
statement  of  the  leader  in  this  great  movement,  without 
endorsing  his  conclusions.  The  mere  facts,  I  know  to 

O  ' 

be  as  he  has  stated  them : 

"  The  immense  number  of  magnificent  stone  churches  that 
are  to  be  seen  in  the  cities  and  villages  of  this  republic,  remind 
the  traveler  of  the  overwhelming  power  that  Rome  once  exer- 
cised over  this  land.  The  convents,  church  buildings,  jewelry 
gold  and  silver,  and  real  estate  that  she  once  owned,  won  for 
the  Mexican  Roman  church  the  title  of  "  the  richest  of 
churches."  A  vast  part  of  the  mineral  wealth  of  Mexico 
passed  into  the  hands  of  the  satellites  of  Rome  that  swarmed 
here,  and  enabled  them  to  fortify  themselves  till  they  imagined 
their  position  to  be  impregnable.  Like  a  vessel  becalmed  in 
23 


354  STATEMENT    OF    KEY.    II.    CHAILNCEY    RILEY. 

mid  ocean,  the  Roman  church  seemed  once  to  lazily  float  on 
an  ocean  of  abject  superstition,  ignorance,  and  blind  fanaticism, 
beneath  Mexico's  bright  skies.  But  a  hurricane  struck  her 
from  the  north,  and  the  Mexican  Roman  church  is  now  on  her 
beam  ends. 

The  example  of  the  United  States  led  to  the  formation  of  the 
liberal  Mexican  party,  and  has  constantly  inspired  it  with  the 
lave  of  liberty  and  progress.     For  more  than  fifty  years  has 
the  Roman  church  in  Mexico  unscrupulously  and  murderously 
fought  the  liberal   party,  and  with   the  sword   in  her  hand, 
stained  with    the  blood  of  Mexico's  best    sons,   tried  t6  de- 
stroy the  hopes  and  influence  of  the  Mexican  liberals.     The 
liberal  party  gradually  gained  strength,  and  won  victory  after 
victory,  until  by  its  constitution  of  1857  and  "  laws  of  reform," 
it  shattered  the  political  power  of  the  Roman  church  in  Mexico 
In  vain  did  she  bring  about  the  French  intervention  to  recover 
her  lost  position ;  that  effort  but  branded  her  with  the  name  of 
traitor.     The  constitution  of  1857,  and  the  "  laws  of  reform,'' 
emptied  all  the  convents  and  scattered  their  inmates  to  the  four 
winds  ;  separated  church  and  state,  gave  entire  liberty  of  wor- 
ship, forbade  religious  processions,  the  wearing  of  ecclesiasti- 
cal robes,  and  the  carrying  about  of  the  "  host,"  in  the  streets ; 
declared  ecclesiastics  ineligible  to  hold   offices  in  the  govern- 
ment, established  civil  marriage,  nationalized  the  church  prop- 
erty, and  in  many  other  ways  broke  down  the  political  power  of 
Rome  in  Mexico.     In  vain  did  the  Roman  church  excommuni- 
cate those  who  accepted  the  constitution  of  1857  and  the  "  laws 
of  reform."     They  have  become  the  laws  of  the  land.     The 
gigantic  and  protracted  contest  waged  by  the  Roman  church 
against  the  liberal  party  has  convulsed  the  nation,  impeded  the 
education  of  the  masses  and  left  them  poverty  stricken.     That 
contest  has  been  condemned  and  opposed  by  a  few  liberal  and  pat- 
riotic presbyters  in  the  Mexican  Roman  church.    Several  of  these 
threw  off  the  yoke  of  Rome  in  consequence,  and  tried  to  establish 
an  independent  and  patriotic  Mexican  church,  while  others  from 
deep  evangelical  convictions  sympathized  with  this  effort.     The 
clergy  that  connected  themselves  openly  with  this  movement 


STATEMENT    OF   EEV.    ME.    EILET.  355 

were  called  "  the  constitutional  clergy."  Many  in  the  liberal 
party  sided  enthusiastically  with  them.  Some  church  build- 
ings were  put  at  the  disposal  of  the  "  constitutional  clergy,"  but 
they,  after  struggling  against  poverty,  the  novelty  of  their  po> 
sition,  their  ignorance  of  what  steps  they  ought  to  take  to  e& 
tablish  a  reformed  church,  and  the  many  difficulties  and  perse- 
cutions that  they  encountered,  concluded  to  await  a  more  favor- 
able opportunity  to  carry  out  their  plan. 

One  of  their  number  however  determined  to  work  on,  and 
he  succeeded  in  gathering  a  small  congregation  around  him  in 
the  capital,  mostly  from  the  poor.  I  am  told  by  an  English 
gentleman,  long  a  professor  of  English  in  this  city,  who  knew 
him  well,  that  he  died  from  the  debility  brought  on  by  want. 
Shortly  before  passing  away  he  said  to  some  friends  who  sur- 
rounded his  dying  bed — "  in  this  solemn  moment  when  there 
is  no  further  possible  earthly  interest  to  bind  me  to  falsehood,  I 
want  to  testify  before  you  all,  that  so  long  as  I  remained  con- 
nected with  the  Roman  church  my  soul  was  ill  at  ease,  and  full  of 
self-reproach  :  since  breaking  away  from  it  I  have  had  peace  of 
mind."  To  a  friend  he  said  that  his  trust,  and  all  his  trust  was 
in  Jesus.  He  felt  very  sadly  about  leaving  his  congregation, 
not  knowing  what  they  would  do  without  him.  He  died  with 
his  Bible  in  his  hand.  They  bore  him  to  his  grave  with  deep- 
est sorrow.  His  congregation  yet  continue  to  meet,  and  have 
done  much  for  the  cause  of  the  gospel  in  the  republic. 

During  the  French  intervention  many  leading  liberals,  and 
among  them  some  of  the  constitutional  presbyters,  visited  the 
United  States.  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  latter  and  be- 
came interested  in  the  cause  they  represented.  Specially  in- 
vited by  Mexicans  to  come  to  this  city  and  assist  them  to  es- 
tablish the  gospel  and  gospel  churches  in  this  republic,  I  have 
spent  nearly  a  year  by  their  sides  assisting  them.  Through  the 
dark,  threatening  clouds  that  hang  heavily  in  the  night  of  Mex- 
ico's misery,  some  stars  are  shining  that  relieve  the  gloom  and 
inspire  hope.  About  forty  Mexican  evangelical  congregations 
now  meet  weekly  in  this  republic.  Many  leading  men,  editors, 
lawyers,  and  some  former  Roman  Catholic  presbyters  take  an 


356  STATEMENT    OF    EEV.    MR.    RILEY. 

active  part  in  gospel  work  in  this  nation.     "With  deep  christ- 
ian  faith,  purity  of  life,  and  with  the  open  Bible  in  their  hands, 
large  numbers  of  evangelical  native  Christians  are  now  working 
with  intense  zeal  for  the   evangelization  of  their  native  land. 
Statues,  and  pictures  of  saints  are  being  frequently  burnt  and 
destroyed,  and  in  their  place,  the  tenN  commandments,  printed 
on  a  large  sheet,  and  framed,  may  be  seen  in  many  houses.     A 
good  church  building  has  been  leased  us  by  the  government  in 
the  capital.     A  private  individual  has  given  us  a  chapel  build- 
ing in  Pueblo.     An  evangelical  weekly  called  the  "  Evangelical 
Torchlight,"  is  published  with  great  ability  in  Cos,  near  Zacatecas. 
A  very  large  number  of  Christian  tracts  have  been  published  in 
the  capital  and  circulated  throughout  the  nation.     I  believe  that 
the  evangelical  congregations  in  Mexico  might   soon  number  a 
thousand  if  the  gospel  work  in  this  neighboring  republic  were 
properly  stood  by  and  encouraged  by  the  American  evangelical 
church. 

I  have  found  multitudes  who  are  earnestly  desirous  to  learn 
gospel  truth.  1  have  preached  to  about  seven  hundred  men  at 
a  time.  New  congregations  are  being  formed  very  frequently. 
There  are  in  the  capital  two  evangelical  congregations  com- 
posed of  lads,  and  conducted  by  themselves.  One  of  these  lads 
was  recently  locked  up  by  his  mother  in  a  room  for  about  twen- 
ty-four hours,  with  the  hope  of  inducing  him  by  this  punish- 
ment to  return  to  the  Roman  church.  In  the  said  room  he 
found  a  chair,  a  table  with  a  skull  on  it,  a  loaf  of  bread  and  a 
glass  of  water.  While  a  prisoner  he  sang  hymns  and  offered 
up  prayers.  His  mother  at  last  decided  that  he  was  incorrigible 
and  set  him  free. 

The  Pueblo  congregation,  recently  attacked  by  the  mob,  are 
working  on  bravely.  A  young  man  belonging  to  one  of  the 
leading  families  of  the  capital  was  locked  up  in  his  room  by  his 
mother  to  prevent  his  attending  and  taking  part  in  an  evangeli. 
cal  service,  after  having  thrown  herself  at  his  feet,  kissing  them, 
and  wailing  and  crying  and  begging  him  not  to  appear  in  pub- 
lic in  the  gospel  work  until  after  her  death.  This  young  man 
has  an  influential  position  in  the  post-office,  and  circulates  Bibles 


APPEAL    OF    KEY.    ME.    EILEY.  357 

and  Christian  tracts  throughout  the  republic  with  great  effect- 
He  sends  them  to  governors  of  states,  and  many  of  the  most 
influential  men  in  the  nation.     Many  young  men  are  prepar- 
ing for  the  gospel  ministry.     How  great  would  be  the  evil  if 
the  Bible  were  taken  away  from  the  people  in  the  United 
States  ;  how  great  would  be  the  gift  and   its  blessings,  were  it 
'  given  to  the  people  in  Mexico,  widely  and  generally.    Numbers 
are  beginning  to  read,  and  love,  and  follow  its  teachings.     Most 
of  the  great,  advance,  liberal  movements  in  Mexico  have  com- 
menced among  the  poor.     Multitudes  of  the  poor  are  now  en- 
thusiastically joining  the  gospel  movement  in  Mexico,  and  are 
full  of  hope,  expecting  to  gain  glorious  victories  for  Jesus  and 
His  truth,  in  this  beautiful  but  benighted  land.     I  hope  that 
American  Christians  may  take  an  interest  in  this  gospel  work 
in  Mexico.     Funds  in  aid  of  it  can  be  sent — stating  the  object 
for  which  they  are  sent,  viz :  the  gospel  work  connected  with 
the  Mission  in  the  City  of  Mexico — to  Rev.  Dr.  Butler,  Amer- 
ican and  Foreign  Christian  Union,  27  Bible  House,  New  York. 
The  little  effoit  already  put  forth  in  behalf  of  Mexico  has 
obtained  marvelous  results,  through  God's  blessing,  and  ought 
to  encourage  American  Christians  to  greater  effort.     A  Mexi- 
can who  has  been  connected  with  the  army,  purchased  a  Bible 
some  time  since  at  his  wife's  request.     The  latter  determined 
to  find  the  ten  commandments,  and  by  them  decide  whether  or 
no  the  Roman   clergy  in  their  teaching  were  faithful  to  the 
"Word  of  God.     On  reading  several  times  the  second  command- 
ment which  the  Roman  church  suppresses,  dividing  the  tenth 
into  two,  she  stood  up  and  walked  across  the  room  to  where 
she  had  a  picture  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  that  she  was  specially 
fond  of  worshiping,  took  it  down  from  the  wall  and  put  it  into 
the  fire.     Her  husband,  Ponce  de  Leon  by  name,  was  the  hero 
of  the  defence,  during  the  recent  attack  made  by  the  mob,  led 
on   by  two  curates  dressed  in  citizen's   dress,  on  some  chris- 
tians,  when  assembled  on  a  Sunday  in  Pueblo.     He  has  estab- 
lished many  evangelical  congregations  and  expects  to  gather  a 
hundred  more  before  the  end  of  next  year.     More  self-sacrific- 
ing, heroic,  devoted,  zealous  and  faithful  Christians  than  they 


358  STATEMENT    OF   REV.    MR.    BLLEY. 

are  it  would  be  difficult  to  meet.  That  one  Bible  that  was  pur- 
chased  and  read  by  them,  has  already  been  the  means  of  great 
good.  The  Spanish  publications  of  the  American  Tract  So- 
ciety, are  intensely  useful  to  us.  Would  that  they  might  sup- 
ply us  with  them  more  generously. 

A  Roman  Catholic  presbyter,  from  deep  conviction  aban- 
doned the  Roman  church.  His  example  deeply  influenced  his 
congregation.  He  was  cruelly  persecuted  by  the  Roman  clergy 
during  the  French  intervention,  on  the  pretext  that  he  was  a 
liberal,  and  after  having,  as  they  thought,  "  degraded  him  "  by 
removing  the  skin  from  the  crown  of  his  head,  and  fingers,  they 
had  him  shot.  The  instant  before  they  fired  on  him  he  ex- 
claimed : 

"  May  Jesus  reign ! " 

A  father  died  and  left  his  two  sons,  among  other  property 
an  image  which  they  both  specially  valued.  When  they  came 
to  divide  the  property  they  got  to  quarreling  about  the  image, 
furiously.  A  member  of  an  evangelical  congregation  passing  by 
at  the  time  and  ascertaining  the  origin  of  the  quarrel,  siezed  a 
hatchet  and  split  the  image  in  two.  The  sons  then  turned  on 
him,  but  he  quieted  them,  inviting  them  to  the  evangelical  con- 
gregation and  advising  them  to  seek  Jesus.  An  aged  father 
took  his  son  who  attended  an  evangelical  congregation,  to  a  Ro- 
man Catholic  missionary,  that  the  latter  might  argue  with  him, 
with  the  object  of  inducing  him  to  return  to  the  Roman- 
church.  The  said  missionary  commenced  to  draw  a  comparison 
which  the  son  turned  against  him  very  prettily.  The  mission- 
ary asked  the  young  man  what  would  be  thought  of  a  person 
who,  on  receiving  a  crown  full  of  diamonds  for  safe  keeping, 
while  its  royal  owner  was  absent  from  his  realms,  should  begin 
to  remove  the  diamonds  and  substitute  them  with  bits  of  glass. 
The  son  interrupted  him,  and  said  to  him  that  that  was  what 
the  Roman  church  had  done  with  the  teachings  of  the  Bible  ; 
substituting  many  of  its  precepts  with  the  doctrines  of  men, 
and  then  went  on  to  prove  his  point.  The  father  became  con- 
vinced that  the  truth  was  on  his  son's  side,  and  instead  of  his 


TILE    SCHOOL    OF    ART   AND    DESIGN.  359 

father  winning  him  over  to  Rome,  the  son  led  him  to  the  gos- 
pel. 

I  trust  that  some  hearts  may  respond  to  these  facts. 

H.  CHAUNCEY  RILEY. 

Among  the  many  interesting  institutions  in  Mexico, 
the  National  School  of  Art  and  Design  is  worthy  of 
special  mention.  This  establishment  is  on  an  immense 
plan  like  every  other  public  institution,  but  is  in  many 
particulars  imperfect,  for  want  of  sufficient  funds  to 
carry  out  all  the  ideas  of  its  founders.  The  building, 
of  cut  stone,  very  costly,  and  substantially  built,  cov. 
ers  a  great  area,  but  is  only  partially  furnished  and  occu- 
pied. Commenced  in  the  last  century,  its  style  of  art 
is  still  of  the  ancient  order,  though  perfect  in  its  way- 
Many  really  fine  painters  have  graduated  here,  and  their 
works  cover  the  walls  of  the  vast  salons. 

Among  the  recent  graduates  is  Felipe  Gutierrez,  who 
two  years  since,  attracted  much  attention  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, California,  as  a  portrait  painter,  and  after  earning 
a  respectable  sum  in  that  branch  of  his  profession,  went 
to  Rome,  and  there  recommenced  his  studies  under  the 
most  favorable  auspices.  I  heard  of  him  a  few  weeks 
since,  as  one  of  the  most  promising  artists  of  the  art 
capital  of  the  world.  Among  the  pictures  on  the  wall 
I  saw  and  recognized  several  of  his. 

The  Mexican  people — I  might  say  the  Spanish  Amer- 
ican people — have  a  natural  talent  for  music,  painting, 
and  the  flne  arts  generally,  far  beyond  that  of  our  own 
countrymen  or  even  of  the  Europeans ;  and  the  wealth 
of  painting  and  sculpture,  the  former  especially,  to  be 
found  in  Mexico,  in  public  institutions  and  private  res- 
idences, is  almost  beyond  belief. 


360  PICTURES,    OLD    AND   NEW. 

Nevertheless,  I  must  confess  to  some  disappointment 
on  visiting  the  School  of  Art  and  Design.  Hundreds 
of  historical,  scriptural,  religious  and  classic  pictures, 
elaborately,  and,  generally,  well  executed,  adorn  the 
walls ;  but  there  are  not  a  dozen,  illustrative  or  com- 
memorative of  the  grand  and  romantic  incidents  of  the 
Spanish  conquest  and  subsequent  history  of  Mexico ; 
and,  stranger  still,  the  wonderful  scenery  of  this  glori- 
ous land  has  been  almost  wholly  neglected.  There  are 
dying  saints  and  martyrs  by  hundreds,  Abrahams  lead- 
ing  Isaacs  to  the  sacrifice,  Judiths  and  Holofernes,  Samp- 
sons and  Delilahs,  Susannahs  and  Elders,  Kings  and 
Queens  of  old  Spain  and  old  Europe,  Monks  and  Bish- 
ops, and  Hermits  and  Brigands,  without  end. 

There  are  a  number  of  pictures  of  undoubted  au- 
thenticity, from  the  old  Spanish  Masters,  and  more  Vir- 
gins of  Guadaloupe  and  elsewhere,  than  would  stock 
any  reasonably-sized  heaven ;  but  one  looks  in  vain  for 
the  scenery  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  the  Barrancas  of  Bel- 
tran  and  Atenquique,  Popocatapetl,  Orizaba,  the  Valley 
of  Mexico,  and  a  thousand  other  glorious  subjects  for 
the  landscape  painter  which  this  country  affords. 

Of  the  new  pictures,  I  saw  one  representing  Virgil 
and  Dante  looking  into  hell,  which  -is  magnificent  in 
the  simplicity  of  its  design  and  the  savage  force  of  its 
execution.  Another — not  quite  finished — representing 
the  Indian  girl  who  first  discovered  the  art  of 
making  pulque  from  the  milk  of  the  aloe  plant,  with  her 
attendants,  presenting  the  liquor  and  the  plant  itself  to 
the  King  of  Tula,  is  very  beautiful  and  artistic  in  design, 
gives  a  perfect  idea  of  the  costumes  and  appearance  of  the 
ancient  Aztecs,  and  is  worth  a  square  acre  of  fly-blown 
saints,  musty  martyrs,  damp,  old  hermits  in  mouldy 


THE   AET   GALLERIES.  361 

cells,  and  the  heroes  and  heroines  of  classic  literature, 
in  costumes  suggestive  of  rheumatism,  diptheria,  pneu- 
monia, and  early  death. 

The  department  devoted  to  painting  is  the  largest 
and  most  complete.  One  of  the  four  grand  salons  is 
surrounded  by  portraits  of  the  old  masters  and  classic 
authors  in  fresco,  executed  quite  recently  by  Kamon  Sa- 
grado,  an  artist  of  Mexico,  in  excellent  style.  Among 
the  art  objects  in  all  the  public  and  private  houses  of 
Mexico,  the  portraits,  statues,  and  busts  of  Humboldt 
invariably  attest  the  regard  for  the  memory  of  that 
great  man,  which  prevails  among  all  classes  of  society. 
The  art  galleries  are  now  being  renovated  and  put  in 
good  order  once  more.  When  I  visited  them  it  was 
during  vacation  and  I  did  not  have  the  pleasure  of  see- 
ing the  students  at  work.  There  are  many  empty 
frames  in  the  salons,  and  we  were  told  that  the  pictures 
which  once  filled  them  were  borne  away  as  spoils  by 
the  French,  who  appear  to  have  laid  their  vandal  hands 
on  everything  rich,  beautiful,  and  desirable,  in  Mexico. 

The  department  devoted  to  sculpture  is  also  very  ex- 
tensive, and  contains  many  objects  of  rare  excellence  in 
art ;  but  the  same  lack  of  originality  and  nationality, 
and  the  same  slavish  devotion  to  European  styles  and 
models  is  visible  everywhere.  In  the  department  de- 
voted specially  to  engraving  on  copper  and  steel? 
crayon,  and  pencil  drawing  etc.,  there  are  many 
specimens  of  work  of  rare  excellence,  and  a  great  num- 
ber of  very  fine  and  curious  old  English,  French,  Ger- 
man Spanish,  and  Italian  engravings,  such  as  cannot 
be  found  elsewhere  on  the  continent. 

In  the  department  of  coins  and  medals,  there  is  a  col- 
lection embracing  many  thousand  specimens.  All  the 


362    THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  COINS  AND  MEDALS. 

gold,  silver,  and   copper  coins  and  medals,  struck   in 
Mexico  since  the  Spanish  conquest,  with  their  dies,  all 
in  perfect  preservation  are  there,  and  thousands  of  old 
Roman  coins,  with  most  of  the  coins  and  medals  issued 
in  Europe  within  the  last  five  centuries.     There  are 
many  specimens    of  the  coWand   medals   issued  by 
Maximilian.     Among  the  former  is  one  in  silver,  repre- 
senting the   Virgin   of  Guadaloupe   on   one  side,  and 
Maximilian  on  the  other,  and  another  which  represents 
Maximilian  and  Carlotta  on  the  obverse,  and  the  Vir- 
gin on  the  reverse.     Maximilian  was  exceedingly  vain 
of  his  repulsive  face,  and  placed  his  likeness  on   every 
thing  which  could  be   made  to  bear  it.     With  all  its 
faults  and  short  comings,  the  National  school  of  Art 
and  Design  in  Mexico  is  infinitely  superior  to  anything 
similar  on  the  continent ;  and  it  will  be  long  before  we 
shall  equal  it  in  the  United  States.     Some  years  since 
the  students  planned  and  erected  a  magnificent  struc- 
ture for  this  School  outside  the  San  Cosme  Gate  in  the 
direction  of  Chapultepec,  near  the  Agricultural  College, 
but  during  the  siege  by  Porfirio  Diaz,  the  Imperialists 
occupied  it,  and  his  cannon  riddled  it  into  a  cullender, 
and  it  is  now  a  complete  ruin.     I  rode  out  there  one 
day,  and  saw  where  the  Californians  under  Col.  Green 
crawled  up  in  a  ditch  to  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the 
walls,  and  with  their  Henry  rifles  shot  down  the  Im- 
perialist gunners  at  their  posts,  silencing  their  cannon, 
while  the  batteries  of  the  Republicans  sent  their  shot 
crashing   through  and  through  the   structure,  until   it 
became  a  perfect  wreck  and  untenable. 

The  College  of  Mines  or  Mining  College  was  one  of 
the  noblest  educational  institutions  of  Mexico  in  its  de- 
sign, and  it  had  been  famous  for  half  a  century,  before, 


THE  COLLEGE  OF  MINES.  363 

even  an  attempt  at  founding  such  a  school  had  been 
made  in  the  United  States.  The  building — cut  granite, 
commenced  in  1780  and  completed  about  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century — is  one  of  the  largest,  and  most 
beautiful  and  substantial  structures  on  the  continent. 
It  is  three  stories  in  height  and  built  on  the  general 
plan  in  Mexico,  with  capacious  patios  or  court-yards 
surrounded  by  broad  corridors,  everything  being  of 
stone,  even  down  to  the  floors.  From  the  flat  stone 
roof  the  view  of  the  city  is  magnificent.  The  college  was 
intended  to  give  young  men  a  complete  practical  educa- 
tion in  all  that  pertains  to  mines  and  mining,  engineering, 
etc.,  etc.  Provision  was  made  for  an  astronomical  ob- 
servatory, and  the  scientific  apparatus  was  always  of 
the  latest,  best,  and  most  complete  character.  But  the 
college  has  suffered  sadly  from  war  and  violence,  and  it 
will  take  years  of  peace  to  fully  restore  it.  In  1846— 
7,  the  American  troops  were  quartered  there.  What 
damage  they  did  I  am  of  course  unable  to  say,  but  it  is 
certain  that  when  the  French  evacuated  Mexico,  a  vast 
number  of  the  richest  and  most  intrinsically  valuable 
specimens  in  the  collection  of  minerals  and  metals  dis- 
appeared ;  and  a  great  portion  of  the  most  costly  scien- 
tific apparatus  had  been  wantonly  destroyed,  or  ren- 
dered useless  when  the  Republicans  re-entered  the  city. 
At  present  there  are  but  about  thirty  students  in  the 
college  which  could  easily  accommodate  five  hundred, 
or  even  one  thousand.  Efforts  are  being  made  to  repair 
the  damage,  and  place  the  college  once  more  in  a  per- 
fect condition. 

The  collection  of  minerals,  all  neatly  arranged  in 
glass  cases,  and  carefully  catalogued  and  labeled,  is  very 
large ;  larger,  I  think,  than  any  two  in  the  United 


364  A    BARE   COLLECTION   OF   MINERALS. 

States ;  and  many  of  the  specimens  are  of  rare  beauty 
and  of  great  interest  to  scientific  men.  I  Lave  seen  col- 
lections made  in  California  and  Nevada,  by  private  cit 
izens,  which  contained  more  silver  and  gold,  and  had 
therefore  more  intrinsic  value,  but  never  any  which  ap- 
proached this  in  variety  and  general  excellence. 

There  is  also  a  large  but  heterogeneous  collection  in 
Natural  History,  embracing  some  very  rare  and  beauti. 
ful  specimens;  it  is  not,  however,  equal  to  that  which 
was  burned  at  the  Smithsonian  Institute  at  Washing- 
ton a  few  years  since,  and  the  collection  of  stuffed  birds 
is  not  equal  in  artistic  merit  to  that  of  the  Audubon 
Club  at  Chicago. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

SOCIAL  CONDITION  AND  CUSTOMS. 


is  something  curious,  and  —  to  me  at  least  — 
-*-  painful,  in  the  peculiar  aspect  of  social  life  in  Mex- 
ico. Though  the  Republic  has  decreed  the  abolition  of 
peonage  throughout  Mexico,  and  made  all  men  equal, 
at  least  in  theory,  before  the  law,  it  is  powerless  to 
break  down  the  barriers  of  caste  and  long  continued 
custom,  which  makes  the  woman  of  Mexico,  though  the- 
orectically  free,  practically  a  slave.  Religion  has  much 
to  answer  for  in  this  ;  and  customs  as  old  as  a  race  are 
hard  to  eradicate,  when  religion  stands  behind  them. 

The  girls  of  the  capital  enjoy  little  of  the  liberty  ac- 
corded to  the  young  women  of  the  United  States,  and 
really  see  but  little  of  society  until  after  marriage,  if 
they  are  so  fortunate,  or  unfortunate,  as  to  ever  marry 
at  all.  They  are  generally  —  I  am  speaking  of  the 
daughters  of  the  wealthy  or  middle  class  families  —  ed- 
ucated in  schools  under  the  actual,  though  not  nominal, 
control  of  the  church  —  convents  in  which  they  were 
formerly  educated  having  been  abolished  by  law  —  and 
the  system  of  education  is  not,  as  a  rule,  what  we 
would  consider  liberal.  They  have  a  natural  taste  for 
music,  play  and  sing  with  great  ability,  and  often  show  re- 
markable talent  for  fine  embroidery,  wax  work,  drawing 
and  painting.  At  home  they  are  models  of  devotion  to 
their  parents,  brothers,  and  sisters.  Nowhere  else  on 


3GG  THE    WOMEN    OF   MEXICO. 

i 

earth,  have  I  seen  such  affectionate  treatment  of  parents 
by  children  and  children,  by  parents,  as  in  Mexico.  As 
a  rule,  the  influence  and  control  of  parents  over  their 
children  never  fully  ceases  save  with  death,  and  after 
death  their  memory  is  cherished,  it  seems  to  me,  with 
more  fondness  than  elsewhere  inx  the  world. 

I  am  proud  of  the  daughters  of  my  own  loved  land 
and  here  in  this  world  of  tropical  beauty,  still  longed  to 
walk  once  more  among  them,  to  hear  the  music  of  their 
voices,  and  mark  the  air  of  independent  self-possession 
which  freedom  gives,  the  bold,  free  step  and  proud  grace 
of  carriage  which  characterizes  the  haughty  daughters 
of  our  conquering  race.  But  there  is  one  thing  in 
which  the  children  of  Mexico  far  excel  those  of  the 
United  States,  and  that  is,  filial  devotion.  "  Honor 
thy  Father  and  thy  Mother  that  thy  days  may  be  long 
upon  the  land  which  the  Lord  thy  God  giveth  thee,"  is  a 
command  which  the  daughters  of  Mexico  obey  with  a 
whole-souled  earnestness  that  is  beautiful  to  witness. 
But  freedom  of  action  outside  of  the  family  circle,  there 
is  little  of  any  for  them.  An  unmarried  lady  cannot 
go  out  upon  the  street  alone  in  broad  daylight ;  nay, 
she  cannot  even  go  out  for  a  single  block,  in  company  of 
a  gentleman,  though  he  be  the  oldest  friend  of  the  fam- 
ily, married,  and  known  to  every  man  and  woman  on 
the  street,  according  to  the  strict  idea  of  social  propri- 
ety in  the  capital.  A  married  woman,  or  at  least  an  old 
one,  must  always  accompany  her. 

I  rode  out  one  day  to  Tacubuya,  with  a  married  lady 
friend  and  a  young  unmarried  lady.  Eeturning,  we 
came  first  to  the  residence  of  the  married  lady,  and  as 
the  carriage  stopped  I  sprang  out  to  help  her  alight ; 
but  she  drew  back  with  the  remark : 


THEIE    SOCIAL    CONDITION    AND    CHAEACTEK.          36V 

"  But  L  —  is  too  tired  to  walk  home,  and  she  had  bet. 
ter  be  carried  there  !  " 

"  Oh  yes,  but  it  is  only  two  blocks,  and  I  can  take  her 
directly  there  in  the  carriage  !"  I  remarked  in  my  Cali- 
fornian  simplicity. 

"  That  will  never  do  in  Mexico  !"  was  her  prompt  re- 


So  I  took  them  both  to  the  young  lady's  house,  left 
her  there,  and  returned  in  the  carriage  with  the  married 
lady  to  her  residence.  That  this  incessant  watching, 
and  implied  want  of  all  confidence  in  the  honesty  and 
virtue  of  the  young,  is  subversive  of  virtue,  and  tends 
to  the  defeat  of  its  own  object,  seems  to  me  quite  clear  ; 
nevertheless,  it  is  the  custom  of  the  country,  and  must 
be  complied  with  by  all  residents  in  the  capital.  In 
justice  to  the  women  of  Mexico  let  me  say,  that  in  my 
opinion,  the  custom  is  as  unnecessary,  as  it  is  oppress- 
ive and  odious  in  our  sight. 

None  of  the  fields  for  independent  eifort  and  self- 
sustaining  labor,  which  are  open  to  the  women  of  the 
United  States,  can  be  entered  by  the  women  of  Mex- 
ico, and  the  future  of  a  poor  young  widow,  or  an  or- 
phan girl  with  no  immediate  relations  to  care  for  her, 
may  well  be  considered  a  dark  and  doubtful  one.  The 
natural  kind-heartedness  of  the  people,  induces  the 
most  distant  relatives,  in  such  cases,  to  come  forward  to 
the  support  of  the  widow  and  the  fatherless;  but  a  life 
of  unceasing  dependence  —  often  upon  those  least  able 
to  grant  even  that  boon  —  is  something  only  to  be  ac- 
cepted as  an  alternative  to  the  one  thing  worse. 

Mexico  is  full  of  young  women,  naturally  gifted,  ac- 
complished, and  fitted  to  become  good,  loving  wives  and 
mothers,  who  are  unmarried  and  have  no  prospect  of 


368  CURIOUS   PHASES   OF   SOCIAL   LIFE. 

ever  being  sought  in  marriage.  Years  on  years  of  war 
and  revolution,  have  forced  into  the  army  and  killed 
off,  or  unfitted  for  marriage,  a  large  portion  of  the 
young  men  of  Mexico,  and  it  is  calculated  that  there  are 
now  in  the  capital,  from  four  to  seven  unmarried  and 
marriageable  young  ladies,  to  every  young  man  of  mar- 
riageable  age  who  has  any  disposition  to  marry,  or  is  in 
circumstances  to  justify  his  doing  so.  In  the  United 
States,  a  young  couple  may  safely  marry,  without  a  dol- 
lar to  begin  with,  for  new  fields  of  enterprise  are  always 
open,  and  the  poor,  young  man  of  to-day  may  be  the 
richest  of  the  rich  a  few  years  hence.  But  not  so  in 
Mexico.  As  a  rule — there  are  honorable  exceptions  to  it 
—the  son  of  a  Mexican  family,  once  rich  but  now  im- 
poverished, lives  upon  such  resources,  as  are  left  to  him  ; 
rides  his  horse  on  the  paseo  at  morning  and  evening, 
pays  attention  to  his  female  friends  in  society,  and 
while  he  is  idly  waiting  for  something  to  turn  up  to 
better  his  condition,  lets  so  much  of  life  slip  by,  that  he 
at  last  finds  himself  an  old  bachelor  and  unfit  to  marry. 
In  such  a  condition  of  society,  a  rich,  young  girl  will 
of  course  have  no  lack  of  suitors,  but  the  portionless 
girl,  though  never  so  good,  beautiful,  and  accomplished, 
has  but  a  poor  chance  indeed.  These  truths  will  fall 
unpleasantly  upon  some  ears,  and  their  utterance  will 
be  resented ;  but  they  are  truths,  nevertheless,  I  am 
sorry  to  be  compelled  to  say. 

The  American,  or  other  foreigner,  in  good  social 
standing,  can  always  marry  well,  so  far  as  youth,  beauty, 
and  accomplishment  go,  in  Mexico ;  but  the  chance  of 
his  marrying  into  a  wealthy  family,  and  profiting  by  it, 
are  not  nearly  so  much  in  his  favor  as  if  he  were  native 
born.  Knowing  what  I  do  of  Mexico,  I  must  say,  that 


THE    CHILDREN    OF   MEXICO.  369 

if  I  were  a  young  American,  unmarried,  and  "fancy 
free,"  I  would  prefer  the  wider  field  of  enterprise  open 
to  me  in  the  United  States,  to  the  narrower  field  in 
Mexico;  but  if  I  had  been  born  in  Mexico,  I  would 
marry  among  my  own  people,  settle  down,  and  labor 
with  all  my  heart  and  soul  for  the  regeneration  of  my 
country.  Mexico  is  a  country  well  worthy  the  love  and 
self-sacrifice  of  all  her  sons. 

The  children  in  Mexico  strike  you  with  surprise  and 
admiration.  You  see  no  idle,  vicious,  saucy  boys  run- 
ning  around  on  the  streets,  annoying  decent  people  by 
their  vile  language  and  rude  behavior.  All  the  boys 
you  see  have  earnest  faces,  and  walk  with  a  sedate  and 
grave  demeanor  like  grown  up  men.  I  never  saw  a 
badly  behaved  child  in  Mexico.  In  the  family  circle 
the  people  are  models  for  the  world.  The  young  al- 
ways treat  the  old  with  the  deepest  respect,  and  the  af- 
fection displayed  by  parents  for  their  children  and  chil- 
dren for  their  parents,  is  most  admirable.  The  daughter 
of  a  good  family  in  Mexico,  though  grown  to  woman- 
hood, will  kiss  the  hand  of  her  father  when  she  meets 
him  on  the  street,  and  always  kisses  her  parents, 
brothers,  and  sisters  at  morning  and  evening,  and  many 
times  during  the  day,  with  the  greatest  warmth,  and 
earnestness.  When  the  children  marry,  they  usually 
remain  under  the  parental  roof  as  long  as  the  parents 
live,  and  the  parents  control  the  house. 

The  people  of  Mexico  are,  to-day,  very  poor.  Among 
the  very  lowest  classes  there  is  less  suffering  than  among 
the  class  who  have  once  been  rich,  and  are  now  labor- 
ing to  keep  up  appearances  after  all  actual  prosperity 
has  gone,  and  their  available  resources  are  exhausted. 
Beggars  lounge  around  everywhere,  and  accost  you 
24 


370 


THE    BEGGABS    OF    MEXICO. 


upon  every  street  and  on  eveiy  block,  and  you  can  only- 
escape  their  importunities  while  in  your  own  house  or  ho- 
tel, by  giving  the  strictest 
orders  to  your  servants 
to  excl  ude  them. 
Many  of  these  beggars  are 
really  needy,  sick,  maimed 
and  helpless;  but  many 
others  are  graceless  im- 
postors. There  is  no  pub- 
lic provision  for  the  help- 
less and  deserving  poor, 
and  every  year  the  beg- 
gars increase  in  numbers. 
The  increase  of  late  years 
has  been  very  great.  Only 
when  you  say  "pardone  /" 
will  the  street  beggars  bow 
and  leave  you.  The  num- 
bers of  horribly  maimed  wretches  you  see  on  the 
streets  of  Mexico  is  almost  incredible. 

The  absence  of  anything  like  the  bustle  and  noise  of 
a  northern  city,  is  noticed  at  once  by  a  stranger  in 
Mexico.  Wholesale  trade  there  is- next  to  none  at  all, 
and  the  retail  stores  are  small,  and  for  the  most  part 
poorly  patronized.  You  see  no  drays  loaded  with  goods 
for  the  interior,  going  through  the  streets  as  with  us, 
and  the  cry  of  the  auctioneer  is  unheard.  Mexico  is  in 
no  sense  a  commercial  or  manufacturing  city ;  its  pro- 
ductive industries  hardly  equaling  those  of  a  town  of  a 
tenth  part  of  its  population  in  the  New  England 
States.  You  hear  the  voice  of  the  "  church  going  bell," 
from  morning  to  night,  but  listen  in  vain  for  the  note 


"  TKNGO  NADA  8ENOR  !" 


THE   TRADE    OF   THE    CITY. 


371 


of  the  steam-whistle  calling  operatives  to  their  work, 

or  the  hum  of  busy  factories,  and  the  clanking  of  the 

laboring   engine. 

Church    towers    a  t  - 

tract  the  eye  on  all 

sides,  but   you   look 

in  vain  for  the  factory 

chimney. 

Hawkers  of  all 
kinds  of  goods,  re- 
bosas,  and  serapes , 
bridles,  saddlery, 
spurs,  boots  and 
shoes,  jewelry,  and  in 
fact  nearly  every- 
thing  usually  kept  in 
a  country  variety 
store,  swarm  about 
the  plaza,  and  under 
the  portals,  on  all 

the  principal  streets.  Around  the  market,  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  country  produce  and  garden  vegetables  are 
sold  by  the  men  and  women  who  bring  it  in  upon  their 
backs,  in  great  crates  or  hampers.  The  chicken,  orange, 
vegetable,  and  earthenware  venders  will  be  readily 
recognized  by  any  visitor  to  Mexico.  The  protuber- 
ance of  the  eyes  of  all  these  people,  caused  by  carry- 
ing such  enormous  back-loads  from  infancy,  is  their 
most  marked  feature. 

The  citizens  of  the  capital  are  supplied  with  water,  in 
a  great  measure,  by  licensed  water  carriers,  who  sell  the 
contents  of  a  three  pail  jar  borne  on  their  backs,  and  a 
smaller  one  carried  in  front,  all  for  three  cents,  deliver- 


EAUTHENWAUE    SELLER. 


372 


THE    CLIMATE. 


ing  it  in  the  house.  The  water  carrier  generally  fin- 
ishes  his  work  by  noon,  and  by  2  p.  M.  is  blind,  but  qui- 
etly drunk  on  pulque. 
A  curious  but  ef- 
fective illustration  of 
the  character  of  the 
climate  of  Mexico,  is 
found  in  the  fact  that 
comments  on  the 
weather — the  staple 
subject  of  conversa- 
tion with  us — are  sel- 
dom heard,  and  do  not 
enter  into  or  form  a 
part  of  the  regular 
topics  of  the  day.  I 
noticed  many  times 
during  our  stay  in 
the  capital,  that  when 


WATER   CARRIER. 


Mr.    Seward    would 

remark, "  It  is  a  delightful  day !"  or  pass  some  other 
comment  on  the  weather,  the  Mexicans  present  would 
respond  politely  in  the  affirmative,  but  with  an  air 
which  plainly  indicated  that  they  w"ere  in  doubt  as  to 
what  was  meant  by  the  remark.  One  day,  after  a  glo- 
rious ride  out  to  Tacubuya  and  Chapultepec,  in  which  I 
had  most  heartily  enjoyed  the  pure  air  and  warm,  soft 
sunshine,  I  said  to  one  of  the  younger  daughters  of 
the  President,  a  frank-hearted,  outspoken,  and  most  ami- 
able young  lady,  "This  is  a  beautiful  day!"  She 
looked  at  me  a  moment  with  the  old  look  of  puzzled 
doubt  on  her  face,  and  said,  "  I  do  not  understand  you ! " 
I  repeated  the  remark,  and  she  then  replied :  "  Si  SeTtor 


AN    EASTERN    SUPERSTITION. 


373 


Como  w>  ?"  (Yes  sir ;  why  not  ?")  and  then  went  on 
to  say  that  all  the  days  were  beautiful  as  a  general 
thing ;  only  now  and  then  a  norther  making  it  otherwise. 
The  fact  is,  that  the  weather  is  so  generally  beautiful, 
and  the  exceptions  so  rare,  that  the  words  we  use  so 
often  every  week  in  our  changeable  climate,  have  no  ap- 
preciable meaning  to  the  dwellers  in  this  favored  clime. 
The  belief  in  the  "evil  eye,"  a  superstition  of  purely 
Eastern  origin,  is  quite  common  among  the  lower 
classes  of  the  Mexican  people.  Many  times  I  have 
seen  a  poor  Mexican  mother  standing  by  the  roadside, 
with  her  young  in- 
fant in  her  arms,  and 
on  observing  one  of 
our  party  looking  to- 
wards her,  draw  the 
end  of  her  rebosa 
quickly  over  the  face 
of  the  child,  lest  its 
fortunes  should  be 


blighted  and  its  soul 
impe riled  by  the 
glance  of  the  stran- 
ger. The  supersti- 
tion is  confined  solely 
to  the  lower  class  of 
the  people,  but  it 
manifests  itself  ex- 
actly as  it  does  i  n 
Arabia  and  the  Barbary  States  to  this  day,  and  evi- 
dently came  to  America  with  the  Spaniards. 

It  is  customary  in  all  Spanish  American  countries  to 
offer  a  guest  everything  which  he  may  require  for  his. 


OUANGE  SELLER. 


374 


HOSPITABLE    TREATMENT    OF    GUESTS. 


comfort  and  convenience,  and  literally,  to  put  the  entire 
house,  and  every  thing  in  it,  at  his  disposal  for  the  time 
being.  This  practice  grows  out  of  a  genuine  feeling  of 
liberality,  and  hospitality,  but  the  language  used  is  such 
as  to  be  quite  readily  misunderstood  by  a  stranger  who 
measures  expressions  by  the  cold'  matter-of-fact  rule  in 
use  in  colder  countries,  and  attaches  more  weight  to  a 
mere  formality  than  it  is  justly  entitled  to.  When  you 
enter  the  house  of  a  Mend,  or  even  a  person  to  whom 
you  have  a  letter  of  introduction,  in  Spanish  Ameri- 
ca, he  at  once  tells  you,  that  you  are  "  in  your  own 

house,"  and  that  you 
are  the  master  and  he 
your  guest,  or  some- 
thing to  that  effect. 
He  really  expects  you 
to  make  yourself  at 
home  in  the  broadest 
sense  of  the  term,  but 
on  the  other  hand, 
pays  you  the  compli- 
ment of  supposing 
that  you  have,  at  least, 
an.  ordinary  amount 
of  common  sense,  and 
will  know  enough  of 
what  constitutes  the 
rules  and  customs  of 
society,  not  to  abuse 
the  offer,  and  outstay  your  welcome. 

If  you  particularly  admire  any  picture,  or  article 
of  jewelry  or  furniture,  he  will  immediately  tell 
you  that  it  is  at  your  disposal,  and  you  are  quite  wel- 


POULTRY  SELLER. 


COUETESY    MISCONSTRUED. 


375 


come  to  carry  it  away  with  you.  He  does  not,  in  all 
probability,  expect  you  to  accept  the  offer ;  but  if  you 
are  ignorant  or  ill-bred  enough  to  do  so,  he  will  conceal 
his  chagrin,  if  he  feels  any,  and  permit  you  to  carry 
away  anything  you  fancy,  however  inconvenient  it  may 
be  for  him  to  part  with  it. 

Sometimes  ludicrous,  and  even  painful  results  follow 
this  misapprehension 
of  the  true  value  of 
courteous  expressions 
made  by  a  host  or 
hostess  to  a  guest.  I 
remember  a  case  of  an 
English  lady  who  was 
on  a  visit  to  Mexico, 
and  on  making  the 
acquaintance  of  a 
family  of  wealth  and 
position,  was  one  day 
offered  a  beautiful 
and  valuable  set  of 
diamonds  and  emer- 
alds, which  had  been 
in  the  family  for  gen- 
erations. She  was 
told,  of  course,  that  she  was  welcome  to  take  them 
away  with  her,  and  in  the  innocence  of  her  heart  did  so. 

The  result  was,  that  mutual  friends  learning  the  true 
state  of  the  case,  were  compelled  to  go  to  her  and  ex- 
plain how  matters  stood,  much  to  her  mortification. 
She  at  once  returned  the  jewels  with  an  explanation  that 
they  had  proved,  on  trial,  not  to  suit  her  complexion 
and  style  of  dress,  and  offering  in  return  for  the  cour- 


VEGETABLE  SELLER. 


376    UNCLE  FREDDY,  ALIAS  WASHINGTON  THE  SECOND. 

tesy  shown  her,  to  send  a  set  of  her  own  jewelry  to  the 
house,  as  a  present  to  one  of  the  daughters  of  the 
family.  Of  course  her  offer  was  declined,  with  many 
thanks,  and  renewed  offers  of  service  from  the  other 
side.  Good  common  sense  in  this  case,  made  up  for  the 
lack  of  familiarity  with  the  social  customs  of  the  coun- 
try, but  I  have  known  some  of  my  own  countrymen 
and  countrywomen  who  were  less  fortunate. 

For  years,  the  residents  of  San  Francisco  were  famil- 
iar with  the  face  and  form  of  an  eccentric,  and  probably 
mildly  insane  old  individual,  who  delighted  in  the  sob- 
riquet of  Uncle  Freddy,  alias  Washington  the  Second. 
What  his  real  name  was  I  never  knew,  but  he  was  an 
Englishman  by  birth,  I  believe,  and  while  he  imagined, 
or  affected  to  imagine  himself  the  very  counterpart  of 
Washington,  he  really  did  resemble  the  portraits  of 
Benjamin  Franklin,  in  a  remarkable  degree. 

Uncle  Freddy  could  be  seen  parading  Montgomery 
street  any  fine  day,  dressed  in  a  full  buckskin  suit  and 
cocked  hat,  regular  "  old  Continental "  style,  or  black 
velvet,  similarly  cut,  and  with  knee-breeches,  white  stock- 
ings, and  silver  buckled  shoes.  Sometimes  he  carried  a 
gorgeous  banner,  the  legends  on  which  commemorated 
his  deeds  of'  valor  and  humanity,  and  his  claims  upon 
the  public  crib  as  a  benefactor  of  our  countiy  and  race. 
Any  contribution  in  acknowledgment  of  his  eminent 
services  was  welcome,  and  the  larger  the  donation  the 
more  profuse  were  his  apologies  and  protestations  of 
gratitude. 

The  sun  of  fortune  seemed  to  shine  lovingly  upon 
Uncle  Freddy,  but  he  had  a  weakness  like  all  other 
great  men,  and  in  an  evil  moment  it  proved  his  ruin. 
He  imagined  himself  a  woman-killer,  and  would  indulge 


NOETOIST   THE    FIKST.  377 

in  the  most  ludicrous  demonstrations  of  politeness  to- 
wards every  body  on  the  street  whose  attention  was 
drawn  to  his  slightly  obese  figure,  set  off  by  the  curi- 
ously antiquated  costume  which  he  affected. 

San  Francisco  has  still  another  speciality,  in  the  shape 
of  "  Norton  I.,  By  the  Grace  of  God  and  the  Will  of 
the  people,  Emperor  of  the  United  States,  Protector  of 
Mexico,  and  Sovereign  Lord  of  the  Guano  Islands,"  as 
he  styles  himself  in  all  his  proclamations.  You  may 
see  him  to-day,  dressed  in  a  soiled  and  greasy  uniform, 
cocked  hat  and  feather,  carrying  a  heavy  cavalry  sword 
and  a  huge  knotty  cane  up  and  down  Montgomery 
street,  or  peering  curiously  into  the  shop  windows,  ex- 
amining every  work  of  art,  with  a  critical  and  appre- 
ciative eye. 

The  cares  of  state  weigh  heavily  upon  Norton  the 
First,  and  in  his  advanced  age  he  is  becoming  subject  to 
certain  slight  ebulitions  of  wrath,  on  the  slightest  provo- 
cation. He  daily  sends  off  communications  to  the  dif- 
ferent crowned  heads  of  Europe  and  Asia,  commanding 
them  to  do  this  thing  or  that  thing,  immediately.  His 
telegraphic  dispatches  would — and  generally  do — fill 
an  ordinary  waste-basket  every  week  in  the  year,  and 
the  number  of  proclamations  which  he  sends  to  the  dif- 
ferent newspaper  offices,  with  command  to  publish  at 
once,  on  penalty  of  instant  death  and  confiscation  of 
property,  is  beyond  computation.  He  was  a  wealthy 
speculator  in  breadstuffs,  in  the  early  days  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  probably  receives  more  or  less  assistance  from 
his  old  and  more  fortunate  acquaintances,  and  possibly 
also,  from  a  secret  order  of  which  he  was  once  a  mem- 
ber ;  but  the  full  secret  of  his  living  and  maintaining 
his  royal  state,  is  a  mystery  to  most  people. 


378          WASHINGTON    AND    THE    CHINESE   PRINCESS. 

When  Maximilian  arrived  in  Mexico,  he  received 
communication  after  communication  from  the  Emperor 
Norton  L,  signed  by  His  Majesty  in  person,  and  adorned 
with  seals  of  the  size  of  a  small  cheese,  giving  him 
much  good  advice,  and  offering  many  suggestions  as  to 
the  method  of  conducting  the  affairs  of  the  new  Em- 
pire, which  it  was  evidently  supposed  would  receive 
due  consideration,  as  coming  from  an  old  hand  and  suc- 
cessful operator  in  the  business  of  Imperialism.  These 
documents  received  much  attention  at  first,  and  for  a 
long  time  bothered  the  head  of  the  son  of  the  House 
of  Hapsburg-Lorraine,  and  all  his  ministers,  exceed- 
ingly. 

One  day,  Uncle  Freddy  mentioned  to  a  friend,  in  con. 
fidence,  that  he  had  written  to  Queen  Victoria  on  some 
subject,  and  the  treacherous  friend  at  once  related  the 
circumstance  to  the  Emperor,  adding  that  he — Uncle 
Freddy — had  denounced  the  Emperor  as  a  humbug  and 
a  swindle.  From  that  moment  the  Emperor  Norton 
First,  and  Washington  the  Second,  were  mortal  enemies, 
and  eveiy  day  added  fuel  to  the  flame  of  their  animosity. 

Washington  opened  a  curiosity  shop  on  Clay  street, 
and  the  Emperor  went  up  there  and  smashed  it,  and  all 
its  contents,  into  a  cocked-hat.  Washington  appealed 
to  the  police,  and  was  told,  that  the  Emperor  being  the 
source  of  all  power,  no  writ  would  hold  against  him- 
Then  Washington  met  a  Chinese  woman  of  the  better 
class  on  the  street,  gorgeously  arrayed,  and  as  she 
looked  at  him  with  curiosity,  bowed  to  her.  This  inci- 
dent was  reported  to  the  Emperor,  with  the  addition 
that  the  young  female  Mongolion  was  a  Chinese  princess 
sent  over  to  America  to  be  married  to  His  Majesty,  in 
order  to  bring  about  an  alliance  offensive  and  defensive 


AIST    EXILE    FROM    CALIFORNIA.  379 

between  the  two  Empires,  and  that  Uncle  Freddy  was 
endeavoring  to  get  her  prejudiced  against  royalty,  and 
in  favor  of  himself. 

This  last  straw  broke  the  Imperial  Camel's  back,  and 
Norton  the  First,  at  once  issued  a  peremptory  order  to 
General  McDowell,  for  the  arrest  and  execution  of  Uncle 
Freddy,  adding,  that  if  the  order  was  disregarded  as 
others  had  been,  he  would  go  out,  sword  in  hand,  and 
put  down  the  rebellion  summarily.  The  wags  who  had 
been  carrying  on  the  joke,  seeing  that  matters  had  come 
to  a  dangerous  pass,  and  bloodshed  was  not  unlikely  to 
follow,  consulted  together,  and  determined  to  induce 
Uncle  Freddy  to  emigrate,  at  once,  to  New  York.  On 
the  way  down  the  coast,  the  steamer  on  which  Uncle 
Freddy  was  a  passenger,  touched  at  Acapulco,  and  the 
venerable  representative  of  the  Father  of  His  Country, 
asked  Senior  Mancillas,  now  of  the  Mexican  Congress, 
who  was  also  a  passenger,  to  introduce  him  to  General 
Juan  Alvarez,  then  in  command  of  the  port  of  Aca- 
pulco, and  Governor  of  the  State  of  Guerrero.  Mancillas 
thoughtlessly  complied,  and  the  old  fellow  at  once 
made  himself  extremely  familiar  with  the  authorities 
on  shore. 

When  the  time  for  the  steamer  to  depart  arrived, 
Mancillas  went  to  pay  his  respects  and  bid  good-bye  to 
General  Alvarez,  and  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  find 
Uncle  Freddy  installed  in  the  house  in  all  the  pomp  of 
the  Father  of  His  Country,  indeed,  and  a  guest  of  na- 
tional importance.  He  had  informed  the  gallant  old 
Republican  General,  that  he  had  rendered  distinguished 
service  to  Mexico  during  the  war  of  1846-7,  which  he 
had  opposed  with  all  his  might,  and  final  success.  The 
General  of  course  told  him  that  he  was  welcome  to  the 


380  HOW    UNCLE    FREDDY    CAME   TO    GRIEF. 

country,  and  that  the  house  and  everything  in  the  house 
was  his  own.  If  he  could  make  up  his  mind  to  spend  the 
remainder  of  his  days  in  so  poor  a  country  as  Mexico,  and 
so  poor  a  city  as  Acapulco,  he  would  feel  only  too  happy, 
to  have  him  for  a  guest  for  the  rest  of  his  life. 

Uncle  Freddy  took  a  look  £t  the  premises,  rather 
liked  the  way  everything  was  arranged  and  proceeded 
to  dine  sumptuously.  When  Senor  Mancillas,  at  his 
last  call,  reminded  him  that  the  steamer's  gun  had  been 
fired,  and  it  was  time  to  go  off  in  the  boat,  he  stretched 
his  legs  comfortably  in  the  cool  verandah,  and  informed 
him  that  he  had  determined  to  accept  the  hospitable 
invitation  which  had  been  extended  to  him,  make  that 
his  home,  and  consider  himself  the  guest  of  General 
Alvarez  and  the  Mexican  Republic,  for  the  remainder 
of  his  days.  Mancillas  argued  and  expostulated  in 
vain ;  Uncle  Freddy  had  struck  too  good  a  thing,  and 
he  meant  to  enjoy  it. 

At  last,  in  a  fit  of  very  desperation,  Mancillas  sent  a 
party  to  invite  the  healthy  old  shade  of  the  father  of 
his  country  outside  the  door,  and  then  seize  him,  and 
hurry  him  down  to  the  boat  and  off  to  the  steamer  by 
main  strength. 

When  General  Alvarez  heard  of  the  "  outrage "  he 
was  in  a  great  passion,  and  could  only  be  appeased  by 
hearing  the  whole  story,  and  learning  that  the  kidnap- 
ing had  been  done  by  the  order  of  Senor  Mancillas, 
in  order  to  relieve  him — the  General — of  the  presence 
of  a  lunatic,  whom  he  had  thoughtlessly  introduced 
into  the  house,  and  who  proposed  to  take  the  General 
at  his  word,  and  stay  there  for  life. 

Uncle  Freddy  was  borne  away  from  the  shores  of 
Mexico  sorely  against  his  will,  and  when  last  seen,  on 


DENUNCIATION    OF    MEXICANS    BY    FOREIGNERS.       381 

Broadway,  New  York,  was  still  bitterly  bewailing  the 
lost  opportunity,  like  the  man  who  being  asked  to  "  ex- 
cuse "  a  lady  to  whom  he  had  popped  the  question,  ex- 
cused her,  and  as  he  informed  his  Mends,  regretted  hav- 
ing done  so,  to  the  end  of  his  existence. 

Many  strangers  are  inclined  to  look  upon  the  pro- 
fuse offers  of  hospitality  on  the  part  of  the  Spanish 
American  people,  as  utterly  insincere,  and  made  with 
an  expectation  in  advance  tliat  they  would  never  be 
accepted.  This  view  of  the  case  is,  however,  far  too 
broad  and  sweeping.  As  a  rule,  the  people  of  Mex- 
ico are  truly  hospitable  in  the  broadest  acceptation 
of  the  term,  and  strangers  are  welcomed  and  enter- 
tained with  pleasure ;  but  it  is,  of  course,  expected  that 
they  will  use  reason,  and  show  some  sense  of  delicacy ; 
and  a  mere  arbitrary  translation  of  the  expressions  used 
would  be  unjust,  as  putting  language  into  the  mouth  of 
the  host  or  hostess  which  they  never  intended  to  use. 

It  is  quite  the  fashion  for  foreigners  of  all  classes,  to 
denounce  the  Mexicans  as  a  set  of  thieves  and  scoun- 
drels, false,  treacherous,  cowardly,  unreliable,  and  with- 
out a  single  redeeming  characteristic.  I  will  not  claim  for 
the  Mexicans  that  they  are  a  nation  of  angels  and  saints ; 
they  have  their  virtues  and  their  faults  like  all  other 
nations.  But  that  they  are  more  dishonest,  or  more 
given  to  disgraceful  peculation  and  swindling  than 
many  of  the  foreigners  with  whom  they  have  had  to 
deal,  I  cannot  believe.  There  are  some  most  notable 
exceptions  among  the  foreign-born  residents  of  Mexico, 
but  it  is  nevertheless  the  fact,  that  far  too  many  of  them 
bore  but  an  indifferent  character  in  their  own  country, 
came  to  Mexico  to  get  rich  "  by  hook  or  by  crook,"  and 
have  no  scruples  worth  mentioning  as  to  how  they  make 


382  A   SHARP   BUSINESS   TRANSACTION. 

the  money  so  that  they  make  it  and  get  away  with  it. 
I  have  heard  a  thousand  stories  illustrative  of  the  prac- 
tices of  foreigners  of  this  class  in  Mexico ;  a  couple  will 
be  sufficient  to  convey  a  fair  idea  of  the  conduct  of  those 
who  are  accustomed  to  denounce  the  Mexicans,  in  the 
most  unmeasured  terms,  for  alleged  dishonesty  and  un- 
reliability. 

During  the  French  intervention,  a  large  European 
importing  house,  doing  business  in  Western  Mexico, 
landed  a  large  invoice  of  goods  at  Manzanillo,  which 
port  was  then  in  possession  of  the  Republicans.  The 
city  to  which  they  desired  to  send  the  goods  for  sale,  was 
in  the  possession  of  the  Imperialists,  and  they  must  deal 
with  both  parties  in  order  to  have  them  passed  through 
the  lines  of  the  opposing  forces.  They  accordingly  pro- 
posed to  the  Republican  authorities  to  pay  the  duties, 
contingently.  As  they  represented  that  the  Imperial- 
ists would  in  all  probability  let  the  goods  go  through, 
but  there  was  no  certainty  of  their  doing  so,  they  pro- 
posed to  give  the  Republic  drafts  on  themselves,  paya- 
ble on  the  receipt  of  the  acknowledgment  that  they  had 
been  passed.  The  Republicans  being  sorely  in  want  of 
funds  consented,  and  gave  receipts  to  be  exhibited  to 
the  Imperialists  as  evidence  that  the  goods  had  already 
paid  duty. 

The  goods  went  through  all  right,  and  were  disposed 
of  at  swinging  profits  within  the  Imperialist  lines,  the 
Imperialist  collector  being  convinced  that  a  heavy  duty 
had  already  been  paid,  and  that  it  would  be  wrong  to 
exact  a  second  under  the  circumstances.  Then,  when 
the  drafts  were  presented  for  payment,  the  drawers  re- 
plied :  "  Oh !  but  you  are  not  representative  of  the 
Government  of  Mexico !  The  Governments  of  Europe 


ANOTHER    TRANSACTION.  383 

have  acknowledged  the  Empire  as  the  only  legitimate 
Government  in  Mexico,  and  it  will  be  necessary  for  you 
to  have  these  drafts  presented  by  the  imperial  authori- 
ties ;  we  cannot  recognize  them  in  any  other  hands." 
The  Mexican  authorities  were  fairly  outwitted,  and  both 
parties  swindled  out  of  the  entire  duties. 

A  friend  of  the  house  which  perpetrated  this  neat 
little  piece  of  thieving — for  it  is  nothing  less — told  the 
story  to  me  as  an  illustration  of  the  shrewdness  and 
business  ability  of  the  head  of  the  concern,  and  really 
seemed  to  think  it  a  very  creditable  transaction  on  the 
part  of  the  importers,  who  pocketed  a  small  fortune  by 
the  operation. 

Another  transaction,  the  parties  to  which  were  men 
occupying  prominent  positions  in  politics,  took  place  at 
the  City  of  Mexico.  A  revolutionary  party  was  driven 
out  of  the  capital  by  the  legitimate  authorities.  As  they 
—the  revolutionists — were  hurrying  away,  a  gentleman 
of  wealth,  who  was  complicated  and  found  it  necessary 
or  desirable  to  leave  with  them,  in  order  to  save  his  mag- 
nificent private  residence  from  occupation  and  confisca- 
tion by  the  Government,  made  a  lease  of  it  at  a  nom- 
inal rent  to  the  French  minister,  who  immediately  took 
possession.  The  owner  soon  made  his  peace  with  the 
Government,  and  according  to  the  previous  arrangement 
returned  and  demanded  the  restoration  of  his  property. 
He  was  put  off  and  refused  on  one  pretext  or  another, 
until  a  new  French  minister  came  out  to  replace  the 
first,  and  the  property  was  then  turned  over  to  him, 
against  the  indignant  and  emphatic  protest  of  the  hap- 
less owner.  The  new  minister  held  the  property  unti] 
turned  out  of  it  by  a  decision  of  the  last  court  of  ap- 
peal, and  then,  when  the  owner  was  restored  to  the  pos- 


384  DEVOTION    OF    THE    MEXICAN    WOMEN. 

session,  he  found  that  every  article  of  furniture,  all  the 
rich  and  costly  plate,  etc.,  etc.,  was  gone,  and  that  in 
fact,  only  the  four  walls  of  the  once  magnificently  fur- 
nished house  remained.  The  plate  was  taken  to  the 
United  States,  and  a  part  of  it,  at  least,  was  sold  at 
auction  at  Washington,  and  is  now  in  the  possession  of 
a  friend  of  mine  who  purchased  it  in  good  faith,  little 
dreaming  that  men  so  high  in  office  and  authority  could 
be  guilty  of  having  stolen  it  outright. 

I  suppress  the  names  and  dates  for  obvious  reasons,  in 
both  cases,  but  the  facts,  especially  in  regard  to  the 
last  transaction,  are  so  well  known  in  Mexico  that  any 
person  can  verify  them  who  cares  to  do  so.  Such 
transactions  are  bad  enough  in  all  conscience,  but  they 
are  not  worthy  of  being  mentioned  in  connection  with 
such  frauds  as  the  "  Jecker  Claim,"  which  Was  backed 
up — cooked  up  I  ought  to  say  perhaps — by  the  minis- 
ter of  a  first-class  European  power,  and  in  the  hands  of 
a  cunning  imperial  schemer,  served  as  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal pretexts  for  the  invasion  of  Mexico,  and  the  at- 
tempt to  establish  a  hostile  Empire  on  our  borders. 

I  ought  to  say  on  behalf  of  the  women  of  Mexico, 
that  all  foreigners,  even  those  who  denounce  the  men 
in  the  most  unjust  and  unmeasured  terms,  unite  in  prais- 
ing their  constancy,  faithfulness  and  devotion.  They 
are  not  only  as  wives  and  mothers  devoted  to  their  hus- 
bands and  children,  but  they  are  ever  ready  to  assist  in 
every  possible  manner,  the  afflicted.  The  suffering  of 
every  nationality,  even  those  who  have  come  among 
them  as  enemies,  always  find  them  ready  to  sympa- 
thize, aid,  and  comfort  to  the  utmost  of  their  ability. 
From  highest  to  lowest  this  is  the  rule.  You  have  only 
to  tell  a  Mexican  woman  that  your  life  is  in  danger  and 


THEIR  SYMPATHY  FOE  THE  UNFORTUNATE.     385 

that  you  throw  yourself  upon  her  protection,  and  you 
may  be  sure  that  she  will  risk  her  own  life,  honor,  every- 
thing in  fact,  to  protect  you. 

In  this  fact  is  found  the  ready  explanation  of  the  es- 
cape of  so  many  revolutionists  after  their  defeat  by  the 
Government.  The  most  detested  wretch  on  the  earth 
can  appeal  to  the  women  of  Mexico  for  food  and  shelter, 
and  it  will  be  given  him.  To  refuse  either,  would  be 
in  the  eyes  of  a  Mexican  woman,  an  unpardonable  sin 
against  God  and  humanity,  and  thus  it  is  that  men  like 
Marguez,  who  have  committed  murders  and  other  crimes 
without  number,  almost  invariably  escape  justice,  and 
succeed  in  reaching  a  foreign  shore.  A  prisoner  sen- 
tenced for  a  long  term,  applied  to  me  to  say  a  good  word 
for  him  to  the  authorities,  and  a  Mexican  lady,  who  ac- 
companied me  at  the  moment,  urged  me  to  comply. 

"  But  he  is  a  rascal  and  an  enemy  of  your  family !  "  I 
said. 

"  Oh  Senor,  that  is  true,  but  he  is  sick  and  in  prison, 
pobrecito  I "  was  the  only  reply. 

She  is  a  better  Christian  than  I. 

The  Mexican  servants  in  the  City  of  Mexico  are  a 
peculiar  class.  They  earn  but  a  fraction  of  what  we  in 
the  United  States  would  call  a  salary — say  from  three 
to  fifteen  dollars  per  month,  five  or  six  dollars  being  a 
fair  average.  They  often  remain  several  years  in  a  fam- 
ily, and  many  of  them,  in  fact,  are  born,  raised,  and  die 
in  the  same  house,  and  in  the  family  of  their  first  mas- 
ter. With  foreigners,  they  are  generally  a  little  less- 
reliable  than  when  serving  native  masters,  probably, 
because  they  are  less  closely  watched,  and  their  employ- 
ers, being  less  familiar  with  their  habits  and  peculiari- 
ties, are  less  able  to  protect  themselves  from  their  ec-- 
25 


386  HOW   MR.   FITCH    WAS   SWINDLED. 

centricities.  They  will  generally  leave  a  very  valuable 
article  or  large  sum  of  money  untouched,  but  small  ar. 
tides  of  finery  and  small  coins  are  very  likely  to  get 
lost,  if  left  around  loose  in  their  reach. 

With  us,  it  is  the  custom  to  pay  the  largest  salaries 
to  those  of  our  employes  who  nave  the  responsibility 
of  handling  the  most  money,  but  a  lady  in  Mexico  told 
me  with  charming  naivette,  that  the  rule  was  just  the 
contrary  there,  as  those  who  handled  the  most  money 
had  the  least  need  of  a  salary.  It  is  so  common  a  thing 
for  the  cook  or  purveyor  for  a  family  to  make  a  small 
percentage  off  the  purchases,  that  it  is  looked  upon  as 
quite  a  matter  of  course,  and  nothing  is  thought  of  it. 

One  day  Mr.  Fitch,  in  passing  along  the  street  in 
Mexico,  saw  a  pair  of  patent-leather  gaiters,  which  be- 
ing highly  ornamented,  pleased  his  fancy,  and  he  forth- 
with ordered  a  pair  built  to  fit  him.  When  the  servant 
brought  them  home,  I  asked  him  how  much  they  cost. 
He  answered  promptly : 
."Five  dollars  and  a  half!" 

I  said — as  I  could  with  impunity,  since  Mr.  Fitch 
did  not  understand  Spanish : 

"  You  ought  to  add  fifty  cents  for  yourself !" 

"  I  have  done  so,  Seuor !"  said  the  fellow  promptly, 
smiling  knowingly,  as  if  he  understood  the  situation  at 
once. 

But  you  should  have  added  a  dollar  instead  of  fifty 
cents  ;  the  padre  is  delighted  with  the  boots  and  would 
stand  it ! " 

The  fellow,  without  a  moment's  hesitation,  turned  to 
Mr.  Fitch  and  told  him  the  bill  was  six  dollars.  The 
money  was  paid,  and  as  he  received  it  and  turned  to  go, 
he  dropped  five  dollars  into  his  pantaloons  pocket,  and 


HONORING    THE    UNIFORM.  387 

transferred  one-half-dollar  of  the  balance  to  his  jacket 
pocket,  and  with  the  most  amiable  and  knowing  air 
imaginable,  held  the  other  fifty  cent  piece  out  in  his 
open  hand  for  me  to  take,  as  he  passed  me  in  the  door- 
way. He  meant  to  do  business  on  the  square,  and 
come  to  a  fair  divide.  From  what  I  had  said,  he  took 
me  for  the  financial  man  of  the  party,  and  supposed,  of 
course,  that  I  was — pardon  the  Californianism — "  on 
the  make  "  as  well  as  himself.  My  natural  and  uncon- 
querable modesty,  coupled  with  the  fact  that  I  wore  a 
uniform  which  I  felt  bound  to  honor  while  in  a  foreign 
land,  induced  me  to  refuse  the  money,  and  whisper  to 
him  to  keep  it  as  a  present.  He  kept  it ! 

The  servants  furnished  to  Mr.  Seward's  party  by  the 
Mexican  Government  during  our  stay  in  Mexico,  certain- 
ly would  compare  favorably  with  any  I  have  ever  seen , 
being  attentive  and  eificieiit,  and  at  least,  as  honest  as 
they  will  average  anywhere.  From  one  side  of  the  conti- 
nent to  the  other,  our  clothing  and  other  articles  of  bag- 
gage were  at  their  mercy,  and  we  lost  nothing  what- 
ever. In  fact,  we  found  it  impossible  to  lose  some 
things  which  we  would  gladly  have  left  behind  us. 

At  one  point  on  our  journey,  some  inconsiderate 
friend  presented  Mr.  Seward  with  a  huge  petrifaction 
from  some  stone  quarry.  This  proved  a  perfect  fossil 
elephant,  and  after  the  shins  of  the  entire  party  had 
suffered  fearfully,  it  was  left  behind  us — by  accident  of 
course — at  Puebla.  The  next  day  we  were  congratu- 
lating ourselves  on  the  loss,  when  Pedro,  one  of  the 

O  '  ' 

servants  who  had  accompanied  us  across  the  continent, 
came  smiling  up  to  the  coach  door,  with  the  monstros- 
ity carefully  done  up  in  a  rag — he  had  carried  it  this 
way  the  entire  distance,  and  was  proudly  conscious  of 


388  MR.  SEWAED'S  FOSSIL  ELEPHANT. 

having,  in  so  doing,  deserved  well  of  his  country  and 
mankind  in  general.  He  was  duly  thanked,  of  course, 
and  we  kicked  it  about  from  one  side  of  the  coach  to 
the  other,  with  many  a  secret  blessing  on  the  donor  and 
the  faithful  servant  who  had  returned  it. 

At  Palmar,  I  placed  it  under  my  bed,  and  congratu- 
lated myself  on  having  seen  the  last  of  it,  as  the  coach 
rolled  away  next  morning.  Vain  delusion !  At  Ori- 
zaba, next  day,  I  went  into  the  dilligence  office  to  trans- 
act some  business,  when  the  agent  said  to  me : 

"  Senor,  you  lost  something  at  Palmar,  but  give  your- 
self no  uneasiness ;  it  will  be  down  here  to  night  by 
the  dilligence.  They  are  honest  people  and  would  not 
take  anything  from  you." 

"  Was  it  money  that  they  found  ? "  I  asked,  affecting 
a  carelessness  I  was  far  from  feeling. 

"  O  no,  Senor :  a  big  rock ;  very  curious  indeed,  and 
doubtless  very  valuable." 

My  heart  was  too  full  for  words,  and  I  could  only 
bow  my  thanks  and  shake  his  hand  in  silence. 

On  leaving  Orizaba  I  tried  it  on  and  failed  more  ig- 
nobly, for  it  was  picked  up  and  placed  upon  my  hat- 
box,  which  it  smashed  down  at  once ;  and  so  in  spite  of 
every  effort  I  could  make,  it  clung  to  'me  like  the  night- 
mare, and  turned  up  in  due  time  at  Vera  Cruz. 

But  in  that  ancient  city  I  was  master  of  the  situa- 
tion. I  occupied  a  room  at  a  hotel,  pending  the  arrival 
of  Mr.  Seward  from  Orizaba, — having  gone  down  to  the 
coast  in  advance  of  the  remainder  of  the  party  from 
that  point — and  had  no  one  to  watch  my  actions,  with 
a  view  of  doing  me  a  service  on  every  occasion  in  spite 
of  myself.  I  took  it  one  night,  carefully  wrapped  up 
in  paper,  and  carrying  it  down  to  the  city  front ,  climbed 


WHAT    BECAME    OF    IT.  389 

upon  some  railroad  material  and  hurled  it  over  the  wall 
into  the  shallow  water  outside. 

I  got  back  to  the  hotel  unobserved,  but  going  down 
to  the  mole  next  day,  I  observed  a  party  of  fishermen 
and  idlers  gathered  about  something  which  they  had 
picked  up  and  brought  there  in  a  boat ;  it  was  that  ac- 
cursed petrifaction  again.  I  bought  it  from  the  happy 
finder  for  twenty-five  cents,  and  carried  it  to  where  some 
men  were  overhauling  a  lot  of  goods  in  boxes.  From 
them  I  borrowed  a  hatchet,  and  pretending  to  be  deeply 
curious  as  to  what  was  inside,  proceeded  with  the  wise 
look  of  a  regular  "  rock-sharp,"  to  smash  it  into  a  thou- 
sand pieces.  I  found  no  gold  inside  it,  and  in  well  sim- 
ulated disappointment  gathered  up  the  pieces,  and 
threw  them,  one  after  another,  as  far  as  I  could  send 
them,  out  into  the  deep  water,  taking  good  care  that  no 
two  pieces,  of  any  size,  fell  near  together.  I  have  not 
seen  any  of  it  since,  thank  Heaven ! 

The  men  servants  are  generally  better  posted  than 
the  female  servants  in  the  matter  of  foreigners.  One 
female  servant  in  the  family  of  a  friend  who  was  going 
to  the  United  States  on  a  visit,  was  horrified  at  the 
thought  of  the  fate  that  awaited  her  beloved  mistress. 

"  Oh  Senora  for  the  love  of  God  and  the  holy  saints, 
don't  go  among  those  Yankees !  They  will  eat  you ; 
they  will  certainly  eat  you !  "  was  her  constant  cry  when 
she  saw  the  final  preparations  for  departure  being  made. 
They  left  her  in  tears  and  despair,  fully  convinced  that 
her  dear  mistress  would  be  devoured  as  soon  as  she  put 
her  foot  on  American  soil.  She  told  her  mistress  that 
when  the  army  of  Gen.  Scott  entered  Mexico,  she  fled 
to  the  mountains  with  her  husband,  and  staid  there  un- 
til they  left  the  country. 


390  POLITENESS    OF   THE    SERVANTS. 

They  never  talk  back,  after  the  manner  of  the  Italian 
servants  in  America,  but  reply  to  every  epithet  with  a 
fresh  offer  of  service. 

*  You  d — d  drunken  loafer ! "  thundered  a  master  to 
his  servant  who  was  endeavoring  to  back  an  unusually 
heavy  load  of  pulque. 

"  Si  Sen  or,  at  your  service ! "  was  the  polite  and 
prompt  reply,  as  the  mozo  lifted  his  hat  and  bowed  like 
an  India  rubber  man. 

It  takes  about  four  servants  in  Mexico,  to  do  the 
work  of  one  in  the  United  States,  and  as  you  board 
them,  the  cost  of  labor  for  a  family  is  considerable,  after 
all.  If  you  pay  a  servant  his  or  her  wages  in  advance, 
or  day  by  day,  the  chances  are,  that  you  can  keep  them 
almost  any  length  of  time ;  but  let  them  get  a  few  dol- 
lars due  them,  and  they  are  almost  certain  to  come  to 
you,  and  say : 

"  Please  Senor  or  Senora,  I  want  to  have  my  wages 
settled  up  on  Saturday,  as  I  am  going  to  the  village 
where  my  family  reside,  to  rest  a  few  weeks.  When  I 
have  had  a  good  rest  I  will  come  back  if  you  want 
me!" 

The  idea  of  allowing  money  to  accumulate  on  their 
hands  is  exceedingly  against  their  fancy,  and  they  make 
it  a  point  to  get  rid  of  it  as  soon  as  they  lay  their  hands 
upon  it.  I  thought  before  this  trip,  that  servants  in  the 
United  States  were  the  worst  in  the  world,  but  heard 
just  as  much  complaint  about  them  in  Mexico  as  in 
California.  In  all  fairness  I  must  say,  that  I  think  the 
Mexican  servant  system  better,  or  at  least,  less  trouble- 
some than  ours. 

The  census  takers  in  the  United  States  sometimes 
complain  of  the  annoyances  and  indignities  which  they 


CENSUS  TAKING  IN  MEXICO.  391 

are  made  to  suffer ;  but  they  have  a  glorious  time  com- 
pared with  their  fellow-laborers  in  Mexico.  It  is  said 
that  the  actual  population  of  the  country  can  only  be 
approximated,  it  being  impossible  to  get  at  the  number 
of  able-bodied  men  in  any  given  town.  The  intelligent 
and  educated  families  will  answer  at  all  times,  correctly ; 
but  among  the  lower  classes  from  which  the  army  is 
mainly  recruited,  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  get  correct 
returns.  The  appearance  of  a  man  with  a  book,  or  roll 
of  paper  and  pencil,  is  the  signal  for  all  the  men  capa- 
ble of  doing  military  duty  to  skedaddle  in  double-quick 
time,  and  the  women,  fearing  that  it  is  a  preliminary  ar- 
rangement for  a  conscription,  persistently  declare  that 
there  is  not  an  able-bodied  man  on  the  premises. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE  AKMT,  PKESS,  AND  POLITICAL  SITUATION. 


~^HE  Mexican  army  is  to-day,  stronger  in  actual 
numbers  than  that  of  the  United  States,  and  in 
spite  of  the  prevailing  stringency  in  the  treasury,  tol- 
erably well  paid,  and  in  a  good  state  of  discipline  and 
efficiency.  The  army  absorbs  half  the  annual  revenue 
of  the  Republic,  but  as  it  must  not  only  garrison  the 
towns  and  maintain  peace,  but  do  guard  duty,  patrol 
the  road,  fight  pronunciados  and  bandidos,  escort  travel- 
ers, and  specie  and  imported  goods  trains,  and  do  a  va- 
riety of  other  work  not  often  required  of  an  army  in 
other  countries,  it  would  seem  impossible,  in  the  pres- 
ent condition  of  the  country,  to  reduce  its  numbers.  I 
doubt  if  it  can  be  done  safely  for  years  to  come. 

The  men  are  generally  stout,  compact,  muscular,  and 
active  —  though  less  in  stature  than  American  soldiers  — 
very  enduring,  and  capable  of  marching  rapidly  and  on 
the  smallest  amount  of  food.  They  are,  nearly  all,  of 
the  dark,  bronze  hue,  which  indicates  pure,  or  nearly 
pure  Indian  blood,  but  the  commissioned  officers  are 
usually  of  lighter  complexion.  They  are  well  drilled, 
mostly  armed  with  American  muskets  or  breech-load- 
ers, and  march  with  great  precision.  There  are  three 
battalions  constantly  on  duty  at  and  around  the 
Palacio  Nacional,  and  others  are  in  various  parts 
of  the  city. 


THE     INVALID     CORPS.  393 

•:  x  / 

One  of  these  is  the  "  Invalid  Corps,"  composed  of 
maimed  veterans  who  are  still  able  to  do  guard  duty. 
This  corps  was  founded  by  Maximilian,  and  on  the  cap- 
ture of  the  city  by  General  Diaz,  after  the  fall  of  Quer- 
etero,  they  fought  more  savagely  than  any  others, 
against  their  old  comrades,  the  republicans.  Neverthe- 
less, the  corps  was  not  disbanded  by  Juarez,  and  in 
case  of  the  attempt  being  made  to  carry  the  city  by 
pronunciados,  or  foreign  invaders,  they  would  probably 
fight  as  stoutly  on  the  side  of  the  Eepublic,  as  they 
then  did  against  it. 

The  students  in  the  Military  College — who  are  soon 
to  return  to  their  old  quarters  at  Chapultepec — are 
nearly  all,  mere  boys ;  but  they  are  determined  repub- 
licans, and  during  the  French  invasion,  more  than  once, 
fought  with  the  most  desperate  valor  against  the  in- 
vaders. 

One  or  more  of  the  battalions  stationed  at  the  Pal- 
ace, marched  past  our  house  on  full  dress  parade  every 
morning,  and  we  could  hear  every  footfall  at  exactly 
the  same  time,  so  that  it  seemed  like  the  movement  of 
a  great  machine.  They  have  each  a  splendid  band,  and 
I  noticed  that  they  played  something  in  compliment  to 
Mr.  Seward,  nearly  every  time.  One  day  they  came 
down  Alfaro  street,  playing 

"Tramp,  tramp,  tramp,  the  boys  are  marching  !" 

in  as  good  style  as  I  have  ever  heard  it  played  in  the 
United  States,  and  I  suppose  had  we  stayed  longer,  we 
might  have  heard  the 

"  Battle  cry  of  freedom  1" 

I  saw  only  infantry  and  cavalry  corps,  but  was  told 


394  THE    PRESS    OF   MEXICO. 

that  they  had  artillery  as  well.  The  lance  is  no  longer 
used,  and  the  cavalry,  for  desultory  warfare  at  least  ap- 
pears to  be  fully  equal  to  our  own. 

The  press  of  Mexico  is  yet  in  its  infancy,  and  falls  far 
short  of  holding  its  proper  position  in  the  community. 
Though  nominally  free,  it  is  hampered  in  many  ways. 
The  name  of  the  "  responsible  editor "  and  proprietor 
must  be  given  in  every  edition.  The  Government  of 
the  Republic  and  the  different  State  governments 
have  subsidized  organs,  which  publish  the  laws, 
speak  authoritatively,  and  reflect  the  views  only  of 
the  party,  at  the  moment,  in  power.  This  discourages 
enterprise,  and  intensifies  and  embitters  party  feeling ; 
the  few  opposition  papers  being  driven  to  pursue  the 
most  violent  course,  as  the  only  means  of  living  at  all. 
Such  a  thing  as  a  newspaper  sustained  wholly,  or  to 
any  considerable  extent,  by  its  advertising  patronage  is 
unknown.  The  entire  circulation  of  all  the  daily  and 
weekly  papers  in  the  Republic  combined,  is  not  equal 
to  that  of  a  single  one  of  the  second  class  dailies  of 
New  York. 

In  the  City  of  Mexico  there  is  something  like  prog- 
ress displayed  by  the  press,  but  it  is  very  little,  after  all. 
The  dailies  are  specially  deficient  in'  the  matter  of  local 
news;  an  event  of  startling  importance — as  it  would 
be  regarded  in  the  United  States — occurring  within  two 
blocks  of  the  office,  may  find  its  way  into  a  paper 
within  a  week,  or  it  may  never  be  alluded  to.  The  po- 
litical editorials  are  often  veiy  bitter  and  abusive,  but 
generally  well- written  and  forcible,  and  the  literary  de- 
partment is  usually  good.  Each  paper  publishes  a  se- 
rial novel  in  a  division  at  the  bottom,  so  arranged  that 
it  can  be  cut  off  and  bound  in  pages  into  a  volume  com- 


LITEEAEY    AND    MUSICAL   ATTAINMENTS.  395 

plete,  when  the  story  is  finished.  The  subscribers  al- 
ways cut  these  off  the  bottom  of  the  paper,  and  save 
them  for  this  purpose. 

In  the  matter  of  foreign  news,  the  press  of  Mexico  is 
usually,  very  greatly  behind  the  rest  of  the  world,  and  a 
New  York  daily  will  spend — and  by  reason  of  its  liberal 
patronage,  is  well  able  to  spend — more  in  one  day  for 
telegraphic  matter,  than  a  Mexican  daily  will  devote  to 
the  same  purpose  in  a  year. 

There  are  many  finely  educated,  literary  men — men 
of  extensive  reading  and  rare  accomplishment — in  Mex- 
ico ;  and  many  books  have  been  published  at  the  capi- 
tal, which  would  compare  favorably  with  those  from  any 
country,  on  the  same  subject.  Poetry  is  especially  pop- 
ular, and  many  volumes  of  purely  native  composition 
are  to  be  found.  The  people  of  Mexico  excel  in  music, 
and  many  of  their  native  airs  are  of  a  high  order  of 
merit.  "The  Hymn  of  Zoragasa,"  in  celebration  of 
the  victory  of  the  Mexicans  over  the  French  at  Puebla, 
on  the  "  Cinco  de  Mayo"  are  equal  to  anything  ever  pro- 
duced in  the  United  States.  Many  of  their  love  songs 
and  patriotic  ballads  are  very  beautiful. 

Probably  the  most  complete  and  extensive  printing 
establishment  in  Mexico  is  that  of  the  "  Siglo  Diez  y 
Nueve"  owned  by  Cumplido  &  Son.  The  elder  Cum- 
plido  was  born  in  Guadalajara  in  1811.  At  fifteen 
years  of  age  he  had  read-  enough  of  the  history  of  the 
United  States  to  desire  to  see  that  country,  and  leav- 
ing home,  he  walked  all  the  way  to  Mexico.  There 
he  worked  until  he  obtained  sufficient  means  to  carry 
him  to  the  United  States.  After  mastering  the^ print- 
ing trade  in  New  York,  he  started  back  with  a  com- 
plete printing  and  engraving  establishment.  He  ar- 


396     AN    ENTERPRISING    AND    PERSEVERING    PRINTER. 

rived  off  Vera  Cruz  to  find  the  port  blockaded  by  the 
French — in  the  winter  of  1838 — 9 — and  the  vessel  put 
back  towards  New  Orleans.  On  the  way  back  the 
vessel  was  lost,  and  everything  on  board  went  to  the 
bottom.  The  passengers  were  saved,  and  reached  New 
Orleans,  and  an  American  war-vessel — the  sloop 
Natchez — carried  Senor  Cumplido  to  Tampico,  from 
which  point  he  walked  to  Mexico  in  nine  days. 

Again  he  set  to  work  to  retrieve  his  fortunes,  and  in 
three  years  was  enabled  to  start  once  more  for  New 
York.  There  he  again  fitted  out  an  office,  and  return- 
ing to  Mexico  with  ten  printers,  engravers,  and  litho- 
graphers, established  the  first  daily  newspaper  in  Mex- 
ico. He  has  gone  through  all  the  changes  of  fortune 
incident  to  public  life  in  Mexico ;  has  been  exiled,  had 
his  property  confiscated,  etc.,  etc.,  but  has  every  time, 
by  his  energy  and  resolution,  placed  himself  again  on 
his  feet.  He  has  visited  the  United  States  ten  times* 
and  his  love  of  republican  institutions  has  increased 
with  each  visit.  He  has  published  several  very  credit- 
able volumes  of  polite  literature,  and  still  takes  an  ac- 
tive interest  in  the  business  of  the  office.  His  summer 
residence  at  the  suburban  village  of  San  Angel,  beyond 
Tacubuya,  is  a  model  of  elegance,'  beauty  and  good 
taste,  and  he  is  counted  as  a  man  of  independent 
wealth.  His  son  still  carries  on  the  business  which  the 
father  commenced,  and  "  El  Siglo  XIX"  is  the  oldest 
and  most  flourishing  paper  in  Mexico.  Its  old  editor, 
Francisco  Zarco,  who  died  w^hile  Mr.  Seward  was 
in  Mexico,  was  the  ablest  journalist  among  the  Reform 
party  in  the  Republic.  His  place  is  now  ably  filled 
by  Senor  Antonio  Mancillas,  formerly  publisher  of  "  El 
Voz  de  Mejico  "  in  California,  and  now  member  of  Con- 
gress from  Zacatecas. 


PRESENT  POOR  INDUCEMENTS  TO  IMMIGRANTS.        397 

The  Congress  and  people  of  Mexico  are  now  discuss- 
ing schemes  for  inducing  immigration  from  Europe  and 
the  United  States.  There  are  some  fanatics  who  op- 
pose all  immigration,  and  in  order  to  keep  the  country 
and  all  its  institutions  exclusively  Mexican,  are  willing 
to  see  the  present  state  of  things  continue  indefinitely; 
but  these  are  few  in  number,  and  not  very  influential. 
The  mass  of  the  educated  and  thinking  men  admit  the 
necessity  of  great  changes  in  the  condition  of  the  coun- 
try, and  look  to  a  liberal  immigration  as  one  of  the 
most  important,  and,  in  fact,  indispensable  measures  for 
the  regeneration  of  Mexico.  It  seems  to  be  the  pre- 
vailing impression  that  the  general  system  of  internal 
improvements  which  has  been  projected  and  is  now  be- 
ing slowly  carried  out,  will  result  in  the  end,  in  draw- 
ing into  the  country  a  great  immigration. 

In  this  I  fear  that  Mexico  will  be  in  some  measure 
disappointed.  My  reasons  are  these :  First,  the  inces- 
sant revolutions  and  wars  of  fifty  years  have  created 
the  impression  that  there  is  no  stability  in  the  institu- 
tions of  Mexico,  no  guarantees  for  the  safety  of  life  or 
property,  and  no  security  for  the  future ;  and  even  now, 
when  we  see  a  tolerably  strong  government  and  a  state 
of  comparative  peace,  people  abroad  cannot  believe 
that  either  will  last.  Secondly,  that  the  inducements 
to  common  labor,  unbacked  by  capital,  are  so  much 
stronger  in  the  United  States,  where  there  is  yet  an  un- 
limited extent  of  virgin  soil,  that  the  tide  will  almost 
inevitably  turn  that  way.  Wages  for  common  labor  in 
the  United  States  range  from  one  dollar  and  a  half  per 
day  in  the  East,  to  two  dollars  and  a  half,  or  even  four 
or  five  dollars  in  California.  In  Mexico  the  average  is 
from  twenty-five  to  fifty  cents  at  the  utmost,  and  there 


398  A    HOPEFUL    VIEW    OF   THE    CASE. 

is  a  surplus  of  labor  in  the  market  even  at  these  rates. 
Then  the  laboring  classes  of  Mexico  live  in  a  manner 
which  no  other  population — the  Chinese,  perhaps, 
alone  excepted — would  willingly  endure,  and  they  can 
afford  to  work  for  a  mere  fraction  of  what  would  sup- 
port a  European  or  American  laborer's  family.  For 
these  and  other  reasons,  I  think  that  there  is  no  imme- 
diate prospect  of  a  large  industrial  immigration  to 
Mexico  from  any  part  of  the  world. 

But,  on  the  other  hand,  does  she  need  it  ?  I  do  not 
think  so.  Mexico  has  to-day  a  population  of  eight  mil- 
lion, five  hundred  thousand  people — and  that,  too,  after 
fifty  years  of  wars  and  incessant  revolutions,  which 
have  forced  into  the  army  the  bulk  of  the  able-bodied 
men  of  the  nation,  depopulated  the  rural  districts,  and 
reduced  the  great  mass  of  the  community  to  the  most 
abject  poverty.  Its  population  equals  that  of  the 
United  States  in  proportion  to  its  present  area ;  and  as 
fecundity  is  one  of  the  most  marked  features  of  the  na- 
tive population,  it  must  be  evident  that  a  few  years  of 
peace  would  very  largely  increase  it.  With  peace  will— 
or  would — come  railways  and  manufactories,  and  an  in- 
flux of  foreigners  with  more  or  less  capital  to  invest 
in  all  kinds  of  enterprises,  which  would  build  up  the 
country,  and  rapidly  develop  its  almost  illimitable 
resources.  These  foreigners  would  employ  the  native 
laborers,  who  are  admitted  by  all  to  be  patient,  endur- 
ing, and  anxious  to  work  if  paid  and  decently  treated. 
As  the  condition  of  the  laborers  improved,  and  the  ag- 
ricultural population,  now  landless,  began  to  become 
land-owners  on  a  small  scale,  wages  would  rise,  and  for- 
eign laborers  would  find  it  to  their  interest  to  come 
here  and  settle.  Mexico  has  rich  mines,  wonderfully 


THE  GKEAT  NEED  OF  MEXICO.          399 

rich  lands,  and  a  climate  which  the  world  cannot  excel ; 
but  she  must  have  other  inducements  than  these  alone, 
to  offer  to  immigration.  The  time  is  not  far  distant, 
if  peace  continues,  when  she  will  have  such  induce 
ments ;  but  at  present  she  must  "  learn  to  labor  and  to 
wait." 

Now  this  may  look  like  a  discouraging  view  of  the 
conditions  and  prospects  of  the  Republic,  but  I  do  not 
so  regard  it.  There  are  enough  of  willing  laborers 
now  unemployed,  or  but  partially  employed  in  the 
country,  to  develop  a  large  trade  along  the  line  of  any 
railroad  yet  projected,  and  ten  or  twenty  years  of  peace 
would  immensely  increase  the  available  laboring  popu- 
lation of  the  country,  without  any  addition  from  immi- 
gration. If  the  Government  can  hold  its  own  against 
factions  and  disorganizes,  and  the  people  can  learn  to 
restrain  their  natural  impatience,  and  refuse  to  listen  to 
the  appeal  of  demagogues  and  unprincipled  political 
charlatans,  for  that  time,  all  will  be  well  with  Mexico, 
and  she  will  then  care  little  whether  immigration  comes, 
or  stays  away.  Her  institutions,  and  the  patriotism  of 
her  people  are  now  being  tried  to  the  utmost,  and  a 
year  or  two  more  will  tell  the  story,  and  decide  the 
fate  of  the  country  for  good  or  ill,  for  centuries  to  come. 

Despite  the  poverty  of  the  Mexican  Treasury,  the 
depression  of  trade  and  manufacturing  interests,  and 
the  frequent  abortive  attempts  at  revolution  in  the  va- 
rious States,  the  administration  is  quietly  and  steadily 
carrying  out  an  extended  system  of  internal  improve, 
rnents  which,  when  completed,  will  prove  of  immense 
benefit  to  the  country,  and  the  grand  effects  of  which 
are  already  felt  to  some  extent.  The  railroad  from  the 
City  of  Vera  Cruz  is  now  a  fixed  fact  one  hundred  and 


400  INTERNAL    IMPKOVEMENT8. 

twenty  miles — to  Puebla — being  completed  at  this  end 
of  the  route,  and  fifty  from  Vera  Cruz  westward,  leav- 
ing a  gap  of  only  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 
The  Tehuantepec  Inter-Oceanic  Railroad  may  be  built, 
the  Tuxpan  and  Manzanillo  or  San  Bias  Railroad  grant 
will  soon  pass  Congress,  and  other  roads  are  projected. 
The  Valley  of  Mexico  is  to  be  drained  and  rendered 
healthy  by  improvements  already  well  advanced,  and 
soon  to  be  completed. 

Among  the  many  improvements  going  on,  I  may  men- 
tion as  particularly  promising,  the  projected  line  of 
communication  between  the  City  of  Mexico  and  the 
port  of  Tampico. 

Under  the  special  decree  of  the  25th  of  May,  1868, 
the  Mexican  Congress  made  an  appropriation  of  three 
thousand  dollars  per  month,  to  open  a  wagon-road  be- 
tween Ometuzco  and  the  river  Panuco.  The  object  is 
to  connect  the  City  of  Mexico  and  the  port  of  Tampico 
by  the  most  direct  route,  and  at  the  same  time,  give 
protection  to  one  of  the  richest  and  most  interesting 
portions  of  the  Sierra  and  Huasteca  country.  A  Com- 
mission of  Engineers,  headed  by  John  C.  C.  Hill,  wras 
appointed  by  the  Government  of  Mexico  on  the  10th 
of  June,  1868,  to  explore  the  country,  in  order  to  select 
the  best  route,  with  the  understanding  that  the  road 
must,  under  any  circumstances,  touch  at  Zacual- 
tipan  and  Huejutla,  and  terminate  at  the  most 
suitable  point  on  the  Panuco  river,  where  navigation 
is  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  practicable,  by  small  steam- 
boats down  to  the  Gulf.  The  point  selected  is  Tanjuco, 
a  small  Indian  town,  conveniently  situated  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Panuco  river,  about  fifty  miles  above 
Tampico. 


AN    IMPORTANT    RAILROAD    PROJECT.  401 

Oinetuzco  is  one  of  the  stations  of  the  Vera  Cruz 
Railroad,  forty-two  miles  from  the  City  of  Mexico; 
therefore  the  wagon-road  from  Ometuzco  to  Tanjuco 
will  only  be  about  two  hundred  miles  in  length  when 
finished.  The  works  on  this  road  were  commenced  on 
the  15th  of  October,  1868,  and  have  been  progressing 
ever  since,  notwithstanding  the  reduced  resources  of 
the  Government.  The  work  is  divided  into  three  main 
divisions :  first,  from  Oinetuzco  to  Zacualtipan ;  second, 
from  Zacualtipan  to  Huejutla,  and  third,  from  Huejutla 
to  Tanjuco.  The  works  on  the  first  division  are  pretty 
well  advanced ;  the  first  section,  comprising  about  thirty 
miles  from  Ometuzco  to  the  City  of  Tulancingo,  has 
been  open  to  the  public  for  the  last  eight  months, 
and  will  soon  be  completed  to  Zacualtipan,  ninety  miles 
from  Ometuzco. 

If  the  resources  of  the  Government  will  permit  the 
work  to  progress  as  it  has  during  the  present  year, 
through  communication  may  be  opened  within  two 
years,  when  this  portion  of  the  country,  which  contains 
so  many  undeveloped  elements  of  wealth,  and  a  popu- 
lation as  large  in  proportion  to  its  extent  as  any  other 
part  of  the  Republic,  will  commence  a  development, 
which,  with  peace,  will  exceed  the  brightest  anticipa- 
tions of  the  friends  of  the  enterprise. 

The  projected  line  of  railroad  known  as  the  "  Tux- 
pan,"  which  is  to  run — if  built — from  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico to  the  Pacific,  is  a  most  important  enterprise.  It 
will  run  through  a  beautiful  and  highly  productive 
country,  and  the  local  trade  ought  to  be  sufficient  to 
support  it,  in  its  full  length. 

Benito  Juarez  has  now  been  ten  years  in  power  in 

Mexico,  and  with  such  a  premier  as  Lerdo  de  Tejada, 
26 


402  THE    POLITICAL    SITUATION. 

lie  could  hold  his  own  for  life,  and  reduce  all  the  fac- 
tious elements  in  the  Republic  to  order,  if  he  had  a 
treasury  even  moderately  well  supplied,  so  as  to  enable 
him  to  pay  the  army  regularly,  and  keep  the  civil  em- 
ployes of  the  government  beyond  the  reach  of  want 
and  constant  temptation. 

But  there  is  the  great  trouble.  Senor  Don  Matias 
Romero,  the  Minister  of  Hacienda,  (i.  e.  Secretary  of 
the  Treasury,)  is  probably  more  obnoxious  to  the  vio- 
lent opposition  faction  in  Congress  than  any  other  man 
in  the  cabinet,  and  Congress,  with  a  stupid  blindness 
to  the  good  of  the  country,  obstinately  persists  in  de- 
feating all  his  initiatives,  utterly  crippling  the  Govern- 
ment, and  paving  the  way  for  endless  disorder,  misery, 
and  confusion,  by  depriving  the  treasury  of  all  its  sour- 
ces of  supply.  Whether  any  improvement  in  the  con- 
dition of  things  would  result  from  a  change  of  ministry 
is  doubtful.  Romero  seems  to  have  done  all  that  any 
man  can  do,  to  repair  the  finances,  and  bring  order  out 
of  disorder. 

Meantime,  the  Government  has  on  its  hands  any 
amount  of  work  in  putting  down  brigandage,  and  sup- 
pressing the  pronunciainentos,  which  though  thus  far  de- 
tached and  disconnected,  are  constantly  breaking  out  in 
all  parts  of  the  Republic.  No  sooner  is  one  put  down 
than  another — generally  originating  in  local  causes  but 
none  the  less  dangerous  on  that  account — breaks  out  at 

O 

some  distant  locality.  So  long  as  the  troops  are  paid 
they  will  support  the  Government,  faithfully,  and  they 
have  certainly  shown  great  efficiency,  and  accomplished 
much  within  the  past  two  years.  But  when  the  point 
is  reached — if  it  ever  is  reached — that  the  administra- 
tion cannot  provide  means  to  pay  the  troops,  then  sue- 


MOEAL    RESPONSIBILITY    OF   THE    UNITED    STATES.    403 

cessful  revolution  will  become,  not  only  possible,  but 
certain. 

A  few  more  general  revolutions  would  render  all 
hope  of  the  establishment  of  a  permanent  government 
in  Mexico,  by  the  Mexicans  themselves,  out  of  the  ques- 
tion, and  the  United  States  would  be  driven,  against 
the  will  of  our  people,  to  consider,  seriously,  the  ques- 
tion of  intervention  in  some  form,  for  the  protection  of 
the  common  interests  of  America  against  Europeans, 
and  Republicanism  against  Monarchy.  Try  to  disguise 
it  as  we  may,  the  United  States  stand  in  the  position 
of  God-father  to  Mexico,  and  we  are  morally  responsi- 
ble for  her  future. 

It  is  our  interest  not  to  absorb  Mexico,  nor  to  cripple 
her,  but  to  aid  her  in  establishing  an  independent  and 
stable  government,  and  developing  her  almost  incalcu- 
lable resources.  We  have  territory  enough,  and  need 
not  covet  the  fair  fields  of  Mexico.  But  there  must  be 
an  end  to  violence  and  disorder  some  time,  and  if  all 
our  hopes  should  be  blasted — God  grant  that  they  may 
not  be — and  Juarez  is  compelled  to  give  way  to  a  series 
of  irresponsible  military  chiefs — who  will  follow  each 
other  in  quick  succession  and  each  leave  the  country 
more  impoverished  and  helpless — the  end  is  inevitable, 
and  we  must  prepare  to  look  the  question  fairly  in  the 
face. 

I  know  from  personal  observation — and  am  sorry  to 
say  it — that  there  is  a  large  party  among  the  educated 
and  intelligent  native-born  population  of  Mexico,  who 
look  without  a  particle  of  confidence,  or  ray  of  hope, 
on  the  present  and  future,  and  regard  absorption  by  the 
United  States  as  the  least  of  the  evils  which  threaten 
them,  and,  in  fact,  something  inevitable.  The  foreign 


404  THE    FRIENDS    OF    ANNEXATION. 

creditors  of  Mexico,  and  many  of  the  European-born 
residents,  would  hail  with  delight  the  annexation  of 
Mexico,  peaceably  or  forcibly,  to  the  United  States,  as 
it  would  give  them  assurance  of  the  ultimate  liquida- 
tion of  their  claims,  and  the  restoration  of  order  to  the 
country.  But  while  Mexico  might  be  benefitted — I 
have  my  doubts  whether  she  would  be  immediately,  to 
the  extent  people  in  the  United  States  generally  sup- 
pose— we  should  be  compelled  to  increase  very  largely 
our  standing  army,  add  immensely  to  our  debt,  and  add 
an  unhomogeneous  element — numbering  more  than 
eight  millions  of  people — endowed  with  all  the  rights 
of  citizenship,  to  the  population  of  the  United  States 
of  America.  Can  we  afford  to  do  this?  Ought  we  to 
doit? 

With  all  the  drawbacks  in  Mexico,  one  cannot  but 
admit  that  there  has  been  substantial  progress  made 
since  the  Liberal  Party,  with  Benito  Juarez  at  its  head, 
came  into  power.  Notable  things  have  been  accom- 
plished. 1st.  The  sequestration  of  the  vast  landed  es- 
tate of  the  Church,  and  the  destruction  of  its  temporal 
power.  2d.  The  establishment  of  complete  religious 
toleration  and  protection  of  all  in  the  right  to  worship 
God  according  to  their  own  consciences.  3d.  The  es- 
tablishment of  Public  Schools  and  the  inauguration  of 
a  system  of  free  public  instruction  yet  in  its  infancy, 
but  destined  to  work  the  greatest  benefit  to  future  gen- 
erations. 4th.  The  liberation  and  enfranchisement  of 
all  peons,  and  the  destruction  of  the  last  form  of  legal- 
ized slavery.  5th.  The  freedom  of  the  press,  not  yet 
complete,  but  nearly  so,  and  soon  to  be  perfect. 

Few  nations  have  been  able  to  do  as  much  in  so  few 
years,  and,  that  too,  in  the  face  of  the  most  violent  op- 


A   PLEA    FOR    MEXICO.  405 

position  from  a  bigoted  and  intolerant  anti-progressive 
church  party,  and  amidst  domestic  war,  and  a  merciless 
and  murderous  foreign  invasion,  backed  up  by  the 
strongest  empire,  and  employing  as  tools  and  mercena- 
ries, the  scum  of  all  Europe. 

Shall  not  a  nation  which  has  fought  so  long  and  well 
for  its  independence,  and  accomplished  so  much  in  the 
face  of  such  obstacles,  have  a  helping  hand  from  its 
more  favored  and  prosperous  neighbor  if  it  needs  it  ? 
Shall  Mexico  not  be  allowed  the  fullest  grace,  and  most 
ample  opportunity  to  conquer  the  elements  of  discord 
yet  remaining  within  her  borders,  and  advance  to  the 
place  God  intended  her  to  occupy  in  the  family  of 
nations  ? 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

PUEBLA,  TLAXCALA  AND  CHOLULA. 

I"  the  18th  of  December,  the  Seward  party  were,  at 
last,  in  readiness  for  departure  from  the  Capital, 
and  at  10  o'clock  A.  M.,  were  all  on  board  the  special 
train,  including  Maximilian's — now  President  Juarez's— 
private  car,  which  had  been  placed  at  Mr.  Seward's  dis- 
posal by  Joseph  H.  Gibbs  Esq.,  resident  director  of  the 
Vera  Cruz  and  Mexican  Railway. 

The  house  on  Alfaro  and  Arco  de  San  Agustine 
streets,  had  been  crowded  with  friends  until  a  late 
hour  on  the  night  previous,  and  our  leave-takings  were 
therefore  mainly  over.  Only  a  few  of  the  most  inti- 
mate acquaintances  of  the  different  members  of  the 
party,  accompanied  us  to  the  depot,  to  say  "  good-bye  " 
again.  A  small  detachment  of  the  crack  regiment  of 
Mexico,  the  Zapadores,  under  command  of  a  war-scarred 
veteran,  Captain  Ramirez,  whose  coat  was  covered  with 
decorations  for  meritorious  services,  was  sent  along  as 
an  escort  of  honor,  by  the  Government. 

General  Mejia,  Minister  of  War,  Sefior  Don  Sebas- 
tian Lerdo  de  Tejada,  Minister  of  State,  and  Senor  Don 
Matias  Romero,  Minister  of  Hacienda,  accompanied  the 
party  to  the  first  station  out  of  the  city.  Some  of  the 
ladies  of  the  families  of  Senor  Romero  and  President 
Juarez,  went  along  to  the  Ometusco  station  where  we 
met  the  return  train,  and  Colonel  Geo.  M.  Green,  and 


BY   BAIL   TO   PUEBLA.  407 

Senor  Don  Antonio  Mancillas,  -Deputy  to  Congress 
from  the  State  of  Zacatecas,  with  his  beautiful  young 
wife,  accompanied  the  party  all  the  way  to  Puebla. 

The  railway  from  Mexico  to  Puebla — about  one  hun- 
dred and  sixteen  miles,  English, — is  a  first  class  one  in 
every  respect,  and  a  part  of  the  route  was  made  at  the 
rate  of  forty-five  miles  per  hour.  In  the  "  Chief  of  Traf- 
fic," Mr.  Geo.  Gliddon,  who  has  control  of  the  running  of 
all  the  trains,  and  accompanied  the  party,  I  recognized 
an  old  friend,  whom  I  had  known  in  the  south  before 
the  late  "  little  onpleasantness  "  sent  one  of  us  to  the 
other  side  of  the  continent,  and  the  other  into  the  ranks 
of  the  rebel  army.  The  engineers  were  also  Americans, 
and  know  their  business.  The  engine  and  cars  were  of 
American  manufacture,  though  the  road  was  built,  and 
is  owned  and  run  by  an  English  company. 

The  road  runs  out  from  the  city  in  a  north-eastern 
direction,  past  the  famous  old  church  of  Guadaloupe, 
and  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Tezcoco ;  then  makes  a 
long  detour,  and  runs  south-eastwardly  to  Puebla, 
through  an  open  valley  country  skirted  by  high  moun- 
tains all  the  way.  The  distance  by  wagon-road  is  only 
twenty-four  or  twenty-seven  Spanish  leagues,  but  the 
railway,  in  order  to  avoid  the  heavy  grades,  takes  the 
longer  circuitous  route.  For  the  first  fifty  miles  the 
country  is  comparatively  dry  and  poor,  and  the  road 
runs  through  an  almost  uninterrupted  aloe  or  maguey 
field,  that  plant  requiring  no  cultivation,  and  paying 
better  than  any  other  crop  on  such  ground.  Though 
the  plant  yields  material  for  rope,  cordage,  cloth,  thatch 
for  houses,  etc.,  etc.,  it  is  used,  almost  exclusively,  for 
the  manufacture  of  the  mildly  inebriating  swill  called 
pulque,  which  forms  a  staple  drink  of  the  lower  classes 


408  THE    PYRAMIDS    OF   TEHUACAN. 

of  the  people.  When  the  blossom  stalk  starts  out,  it 
is  cut  off,  and  the  center  of  the  plant  is  hollowed  out 
so  as  to  form  a  deep  cup.  In  this  reservoir  the  sap  col- 
lects, and  once  in  twenty-four  hours  the  Indians,  with 
long  calabashes,  \\ith  holes  in  each  end,  go  around  to 
gather  it.  They  thrust  one  end  of  the  calabash  into 
the  sap,  and  applying  the  other  to  the  mouth,  suck  the 
sweet  fluid  up  until  the  calabash  is  filled,  then  let  it 
run  into  the  pig-skins,  in  which  it  is  carried  to  market. 
A  little  of  the  old  pulque,  already  fermented,  is  added 
to  the  fresh  juice,  and  the  skins  being  exposed  in  the 
sun  for  a  few  days  the  fluid  is  ready  for  drinking. 
None  for  me,  thank  you !  We  saw  them  gathering  the 
sap  all  along  the  road.  The  amount  of  pulque  con- 
sumed in  Mexico  is  almost  beyond  belief. 

"  Wall  stranger,  what's  a  bar'l  o'  whiskey  in  a  fam'ly 
o'  eleven  children,  an'  no  cow  2"  was  the  indignant  reply 
of  the  Wabash  Valley  Hoosier,  to  an  inquirer  after 
useless  knowledge,  named  Fitch,  some  years  since.  The 
same  idea  prevails  with  regard  to  pulque,  among  the 
poorer  Mexicans.  Special  trains  are  run  over  the  road 
to  carry  pulque  to  the  capital,  and  still,  by  far  the 
greater  portion  is  brought  in^  upon  the  backs  of  men, 
mules  and  donkeys. 

Some  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  from  the  city  we 
passed  the  first  pyramids,  known  as  those  of  San  Juan 
Tehuacan,  which  stand  about  a  fourth  of  a  mile  from 
the  railway,  up  towards  the  hills.  There  are  two  large 
ones,  each  apparently  three  hundred  to  four  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  well  defined  in  their  angles  after  the 
lapse  of  so  many  centuries.  They  were  built  from 
adobes,  and  then  covered  over  with  earth,  and  sodded, 
to  protect  them  from  the  rains  and  sun.  A  zigzag  path 


THE    BATTLE    FIELD    OF    OTUMBA.  409 

leads  up  to  the  summit  of  the  finest  one,  on  which  there 
is  a  cross.  The  fine  old  church  of  San  Juan  Tehuacan 
stands  near  the  pyramids,  and  there  are  little  villages 
and  hamlets  all  around.  There  are  several  smaller  pyr- 
amids in  the  plain,  but  they  appear  to  have  been  only 
begun  and  never  finished.  It  is  said  that  the  largest 
of  the  pyramids  of  Tehuacan  was  opened  by  orders  of 
Maximilian,  and  found  to  contain  abundant  evidences 
of  great  antiquity  and  many  Aztec  relics,  but  nothing 
of  much  intrinsic  value.  Soon  after  passing  the  pyra- 
mids, we  went  through  the  great  battle  field  of  Otumba, 
where  Cortez,  with  his  regular  Spanish  soldiers,  and 
Tlaxcalan  allies  fought,  and,  after  the  most  desperate 
struggle,  routed,  one  hundred  thousand  Mexicans. 
There  is  a  current  tradition,  to  the  effect  that  Otumba 
owes  its  name  to  an  exclamation  of  Cortez  after  the 
battle.  As  he  looked  at  the  piles  of  the  dead  on  the 
field,  and  bitterly  counted  the  thinned  ranks  of  his 
army,  he  exclaimed : 

"  O  tumba  de  mi  soldados ! "  (O  tomb  of  my 
soldiers !) 

The  story  may  be  safely  regarded  as  on  a  par,  in 
point  of  reliability,  with  those  which  pretend  to  give 
the  origin  of  the  names  of  Ohio,  Iowa,  Alabama,  etc. 

There  are  only  adobe-walled  hamlets,  patches  of 
corn,  and  wide  fields  of  aloe  plants,  to-day,  on  the 
ground  where  the  fate  of  Mexico  was  decided  nearly 
three  centuries  and-a-half  ago.  Not  even  a  monument 
marks  the  spot,  and  if  there  were  no  railway  station 
there,  the  traveler  would  pass  it  without  being  aware 
that  he  was  upon  grandly  historic  ground. 

At  Ometusco,  eighteen  leagues  from  Mexico,  we  met 
the  up-train  bound  for  the  capital,  and  took  leave  of  the 


410     THE    GRANDEST   MOUNTAINS    OF   THE   CONTINENT. 

families  of  the  President,  Senor  Romero,  and  Mr.  Nel- 
son. At  Apam,  half-way  between  Mexico  and  Puebla, 
we  breakfasted  as  well  as  we  could  have  done  at  any 
railroad  station  in  the  United  States. 

At  this  point  the  country  begins  to  change.  Be- 
tween Mexico  and  Apam  the  country  resembles  Lower 
California  to  a  considerable  degree ;  but  from  Apam  to 
Puebla  it  has  more  the  appearance  of  the  foot-hills  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  the  gold  belt  of  California,  though 
the  red  soil  of  the  latter  is  lacking.  The  aloe  fields 
now  begin  to  give  place  to  corn  fields,  and  the  country 
is  productive,  and  densely  populated. 

We  were  now  in  the  ancient  State  of  Tlaxcala,  in  a 
plain  situated  among  the  grandest  mountains  of  our 
continent.  On  one  side  Popocatapetl  lifts  -his  grand 
head,  white  with  the  snow  of  countless  ages,  and  tur- 
baned  with  white, 'fleecy  vapors  which  cling,  lovingly, 
around  it,  far  into  the  deep,  blue,  cloudless  sky.  Next 
him  stands  his  royal  sister,  "La  Muqer  en  Blanco? 
("  The  woman  in  white,")  and  opposite  stands  the  "  Ma- 
linchi,"  named  after  Cortez's  Indian  mistress,  a  mighty 
mountain,  but  not  snow-crowned,  covered  with  deep 
green  pine  forests,  up  to  within  four  or  five  thousand 
feet  of  its  summit,  and  surrounded,  with  almost  num- 
berless villages,  each  with  its  white  church,  and  rich, 
wide  corn-fields. 

The  number  of  these  hamlets,  with  large  churches,  is 
astonishing.  It  is  said  that  there  are  no  less  than  fifty- 
eight  of  them  in  the  district  known  as  the  Malinchi,  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  mountain,  and  the  entire 
country  for  hundreds  of  miles  around  is  equally  blessed. 
In  spite  of  all  this,  the  region  has  a  villainous  repu- 
tation as  the  favorite  haunt  of  robbers  and  kidnappers. 


PUEBLA   BY    MOONLIGHT   AND  •  DAYLIGHT.  411 

and  the  population  was  supposed,  by  many,  to  be  in 
that  dissatisfied  condition  which  would  make  it  readily 
available  for  carrying-  out  a  pranunciamento,  by  any 
ambition^1  and  unscrupulous  chief  who  has  the  money 
or  influence  to  fairly  start  it. 

Right  before  us,  standing  out  bold  and  clear,  and 
sharp  in  all  its  outlines,  against  the  sunlit  sky  of  Mex- 
ico, white  and  cold  and  peerlessly  beautiful,  stood  the 
monarch  of  the  land  of  the  Aztecs — Orizaba.  I  have 
looked  at  the  picture  in  wonder  and  delight  for  hours, 
but  yet  can  find  no  words  with  which  to  describe  the 
scene,  and  the  emotions  which  follow  the  realization  of 
the  dream  of  a  life-time. 

Twenty-one  miles  from  Puebla,  after  passing  the  iron 
smelting  works,  we  stopped  a  moment  at  the  old  Indian 
town  of  Santa  Anna,  the  station  at  which  passengers 
disembark  for  the  old  city  of  Tlaxcala,  and  then  went 
on  with  accelerated  speed  over  the  descending  grade  to 
Puebla. 

We  entered  this  old  city  of  wealth,  fashion,  bigotry 
and  revolutions,  at  5  o'clock  p.  M.,  and  the  Governor 
and  suite  having  met  and  congratulated  Mr.  Seward, 
the  party  went  directly  to  the  palace  of  the  Bishop  of 
Puebla,  a  structure  almost  as  solid  and  massive  as  the 
pyramids,  covering  an  entire  block  or  square,  and  su- 
perbly furnished  and  decorated  with  gems  of  art.  Each 
room  is  a  house  in  itself,  so  grand  are  its  proportions, 
and  the  palace  is,  altogether,  equal  to  a  small  town.  It 
faces  the  great  cathedral  of  Puebla,  the  largest  and 
richest  religious  edifice  on  the  American  continent,  in- 
finitely superior  to  even  the  great  cathedral  of  Mex- 
ico, and,  in  fact,  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world. 

After  dinner  I  went  out  with  some  friends  to  walk 


412  WAR'S  DESOLATIONS. 

in  the  Plaza,  and  saw  the  full,  round  moon  rise  up  from 
behind  the  mountains,  flooding  the  whole  grand  land- 
scape with  such  a  light  as  can  only  be  seen,  in  perfection 
in  the  pure,  dry  atmosphere  of  Mexico,  and  throwing 
over  the  city  of  Puebla,  with  its  ninety-seven  churches, 
its  ruined  walls,  its  beautiful  plazas,  its  green  alamedas, 
and  its  hundred  objects  of  historic  interest,  a  beauty 
and  a  glory  indescribable.  Such  a  moonlight  scene  one 
witnesses  nowhere  outside  the  tropics,  and  rarely  even 
there. 

We  entered  Puebla  on  Saturday  evening,  and  not  car- 
ing to  intrude  upon  the  worshipers  in  the  great  cathedral 
on  Sunday  morning,  concluded  to  defer  our  visit  to  that 
leading  object  of  interest  until  another  time.  We  there- 
fore accepted  the  invitation  of  Mr.  Adolfo  Blumenkorn, 
an  American  citizen  long  resident  here,  to  ride  out 
through  the  suburbs,  and  see  the  ruin  and  desolation 
wrought  by  the  late  terrible  war  of  which  Puebla  was 
the  center.  We  went  first  to  the  old  church  of  San 
Zavier,  which  was  fortified  by  the  Mexicans  on  the  ar- 
rival of  the  French,  and  withstood  the  first  attack. 
The  streets  leading  to  it  all  show  evidences  of  the  des- 
perate struggle  which  here  took  place.  All  the  build- 
ings, for  many  blocks,  are  in  ruins,. or  pitted  with  can- 
non-ball and  bullet  marks,  and  earth-works  and  tempo- 
rary defenses,  now  in  ruins,  are  seen  in  all  directions. 

After  the  defeat  of  the  French  by  the  Mexicans  un- 
der General  Zaragoza,  on  the  Cinco  de  Mayo  outside  the 
city,  they  received  re-enforcements,  and  having  learned 
caution  from  sad  experience,  advanced  on  a  different 
line,  and  in  a  more  guarded  manner,  on  the  city.  The 
new  state-prison,  which  was  almost  finished  when  the 
war  commenced,  stands  adjoining  the  great,  old  church 


THE    SIEGE   AND    CAPTURE    OF   PUEBLA.  413 

of  San  Zavier,  on  the  side  fartherest  from  the  city,  and 
of  course  in  direct  range  of  the  batteries  of  the  French, 
which  were  mounted  upon  a  small  hill  some  half  mile 
further  out.  The  state  prison  and  church  were  held  by 
the  Mexicans  until  the  walls  were  perforated  every- 
where by  balls,  and  the  flying  stones,  knocked  down  at 
every  volley  from  the  French  batteries,  made  the  posi- 
tion no  longer  tenable.  They  then  retreated  into  the 
plaza,'  nearer  the  heart  of  the  city,  where  they  threw 
up  entrenchments.  The  French  immediately  took  up 
their  position  in  the  church  and  state-prison,  but  that 
night  the  Mexicans  opened  upon  them,  and  sent  four 
hundred  cannon  balls  through  the  two  structures  before 
morning,  and  the  French,  after  a  loss  of  some  five  hun- 
dred men,  found  the  buildings  too  hot  to  hold  them. 
Both  buildings  are  now  so  riddled  and  shattered  as  to 
be  untenable  and  worthless,  and  it  is  the  general  opin- 
ion that  it  will  be  cheaper  to  pull  down  the  walls  of 
the  state-prison  and  rebuild  from  the  foundation,  than 
to  attempt  to  repair  it. 

When  the  Mexicans  saw  that  the  fall  of  Puebla  was 
unavoidable,  they  blew  up  and  wholly,  or  partially, 
destroyed  a  large  number  of  churches  around  the  out- 
skirts of  the  city,  to  prevent  their  being  used  as  defen- 
ces by  the  French,  when  it  should  be  their  turn  to  be 
come  the  besiegers,  and  that  of  the  French  to  be  the 
besieged.  The  wisdom  of  this  action  was  demonstrated 
when  General  Porfiero  Diaz,  who  had  made  the  brilliant 
campaign  of  Tehuantepec  and  Oaxaca,  sweeping  every- 
thing before  him  like  a  hurricane,  arrived  before  Puebla 
while  Maximilian  was  being  besieged  at  Queretaro,  by 
Escobedo.  Marquez,  with  the  imperial  troops,  had  ad- 
vanced from  the  city  of  Mexico  to  Apizaco,  only  one 


414  THE  BATTLE  FIELD  OF  CINCO  DE  MAYO. 

day's  march  from  Puebla,  to  relieve  the  garrison  and 
meet  Diaz,  when  the  latter  determined  on  the  desperate 
but  brilliant  movement  which  decided  the  contest  at  a 
blow.  At  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  he  ordered  a 
general  assault  by  all  his  forces  upon  the  city,  which 
had  not  been  besieged  for  an  hour,  and  his  victorious, 
but  almost  exhausted  and  worn  out  army  responding 
with  enthusiasm,  one  of  the  most  determined  and  des- 
perate conflicts  of  our  time  followed. 

Dividing  his  force  into  thirteen  columns,  and  charg- 
ing directly  into  the  city  from  all  points  at  once  against 
a  murderous  fire  from  every  house-top,  earth-work  and 
commanding  position,  he  carried  the  place  at  the  first 
assault  with  a  loss  of  eleven  hundred  and  seventy-six 
men,  killing  or  capturing  the  entire  Imperialist  force 
with  all  its  supplies,  artillery,  and  munitions  of  war, 
and  compelling  Marquez  to  fall  back  on  the  capital  in 
all  haste,  and  put  it  in  a  condition  to  withstand  a  siege 
by  the  Kepublican  forces,  until  the  fall  of  Queretaro, 
the  Empire  and  Maximilian  rendered  further  resistance 
hopeless. 

From  the  church  of  San  Zavier  we  rode  out  to  see 
the  battle  field  of  the  Cinco  de  Mayo,  already  famous 
in  song  and  story.  It  has  been  so  often  described  that 
I  will  not  go  into  details.  Coming  back  we  saw  more 
of  ruin  resulting  from  war,  than  we  had  previously  no- 
ticed in  Mexico.  The  destruction  of  life  and  property 
by  this  infamous  war  must  have  been  enormous,  and  I 
doubt  if  Puebla  will  ever  fully  recover  from  it.  The 
population  of  the  city  cannot  now  exceed  eighty  thou- 
sand ;  it  is  doubtful  if  there  is  more  than  sixty  thou- 
sand or  seventy  thousand,  and  after  all  the  destruction, 
there  is  still  one  great  church  for  every  one  thousand 


THE    PKONUNCIAMENTO    IN   THE    SIEKEA.  415 

men,  women,  and  children  in  the  city.  There  are  vari. 
ous  manufactories  in  and  around  the  city,  and  the  coun- 
try in  the  vicinity  being  very  productive,  there  is  con- 
siderable trade,  especially  since  the  completion  of  the 
railroad  to  Mexico  in  September  last,  but  the  city  can- 
not be  said  to  be  in  a  very  prosperous  condition, 
nevertheless. 

We  heard  less  here  than  in  the  city  of  Mexico  con- 
cerning the  pronunciarnento  against  the  Government  in. 
the  Sierra,  in  the  State  of  Puebla.  The  general  opinion 
at  Puebla  was  that  the  movement  had  not  any  head, 
and  that  the  various  bands  were  small  in  numbers,  and 
acting  without  concert  or  definite  plan.  But  on  the 
other  hand,  it  was  said  that  a  deputation  had  been  sent 
to  Oaxaca  to  consult  with  the  famous  military  chieftain, 
Porfiero  Diaz,  and  ask  him  to  take  command,  promising 
him  the  support  of  the  disaffected  in  every  part  of  the 
country,  and  a  general  and  preconcerted  rising  against 
the  Juarez  Government.  Their  success  would  be  a 
greater  disaster  to  Mexico  than  the  French  invasion. 
If  Mexico  is  to  exist,  as  an  independent  nation, 
she  must  Jiave  peace,  and  the  inauguration  of  another 
general  civil  war  would  be  the  death  knell  of  the 
Republic. 

We  saw  troops  marched  through  the  streets,  and  found 
General  Alatorre  absent  in  the  mountains  with  some 
three  thousand  men,  operating  against  the  bands  of 
guerillas  which  were  making  all  the  trouble,  but  could 
learn  nothing  more  definite.  There  had  been  no  fight- 
ing since  the  Sixth  Battalion  was  surprised  and  routed 
at  Xochipulco,  on  the  29th  of  November,  for  the  reason 
that  the  guerillas  were  too  active  and  cautious  to  be 
caught,  or  risk  an  engagement  without  great  advan- 


410  THE    ANCIENT    REPUBLIC    OF   TLAXCALA. 

tages  on  their  side,  and  the  character  of  the  mountain 
country  is  such,  as  to  make  a  successful  campaign 
against  them  almost  impossible.  About  sixty  of  the 
men  of  the  battalion,  wounded  at  Xochipulco,  were 
there  in  the  hospital  under  surgical  treatment. 

We  made  good  use  of  our  time  while  at  Puebla,  and 
in  its  vicinity.  No  part  of  our  trip  was  more  replete 
with  interest,  and  we  enjoyed  it  to  the  utmost.  On  the 
19th  we  left  Puebla,  by  railway,  to  visit  the  capital  of 
the  ancient  Republic  of  Tlaxcala,  renowned  in  the  his- 
tory of  Spanish  conquest  for  the  part  its  people  took  in 
fixing  the  chain  of  the  conquerors,  upon  the  neck  of 
Mexico.  How  the  Mexicans,  hearing  of  the  arrival  of 
Cortez  at  Vera  Cruz,  asked  permission  of  their  hered- 
itary enemies,  the  Tlaxcalans,  to  be  allowed  to  send 
commissioners  through  their  territory,  to  see  Cortez  and 
find  out  what  called  him  to  the  country ;  how  the 
crafty  Tlaxcalans  consented,  and  then  agreed  to  pilot 
them  on  their  way,  but  secretly  dispatched  emissaries 
in  advance  to  make  a  treaty  with  Cortez — which  they 
did — and  joined  hands  with  the  invaders  against  the 
Mexicans,  whose  costly  presents  to  Cortez  had  excited 
his  cupidity,  and  confirmed  his  determination  to  conquer 
their  country,  has  all  been  told  by  historians,  over  and 
over,  and  I  will  therefore  confine  myself  to  what  I  saw 
and  heard,  on  this  old  historic  ground,  in  the  last, 
bright,  sunny  days  of  the  good  year  1869. 

From  Puebla  to  the  station  of  Santa  Anna,  by  railway, 
is  only  twenty-one  miles,  English,  and  with  a  special 
train  we  made  it  in  less  than  forty  minutes ;  in  Cortez' 
time  it  must  have  taken  considerably  longer.  The  old 
Indian  town  of  Santa  Anna,  is  half  in  ruins,  but  there 
is  still  a  little  life  left  there.  We  saw  an  immense  en- 


A   TKAIN    OF    PACK-INDIANS.  417 

closure  of  timber,  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheater,  which 
they  were  erecting  for  a  "plaza  de  toros"  where  thou- 
sands of  people  doubtless  nocked  from  all  the  surround- 
ing country,  about  New  Years,  to  indulge  in  and  gloat 
over  the  brutalities  of  the  bull-fight. 

Entering  carriages,  sent  for  us  by  the  Governor  of 
Tlaxcala,  to  ride  some  three  or  four  miles  down  to 
the  ancient  city,  we  met,  a  little  distance  down  the 
road,  a  train  of  pack-Indians,  coming  in  from  the  moun- 
tains with  lumber,  with  which  to  complete  the  amphi- 
theater. Each  Indian  carried  on  his  back,  suspended 
from  his  head  by  a  leathern  strap  across  his  forehead,  a 
pitch-pine  beam,  twenty  feet  long,  ten  inches  wide,  and 
six  inches  thick.  The  weight  of  each  of  these  beams, 
according  to  the  lowest  estimate  made  by  members  of 
our  party,  was  four  hundred  pounds — I  think  it  more 
probable  that  they  would  weigh  five  hundred  pounds 
—and  the  load  for  a  mule  is  only  three  hundred 
pounds ;  yet  these  sturdy  fellows  earned  them  off  at  a 
dog-trot,  talking  good-naturedly  as  they  went,  and  had 
probably  brought  them  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  that 
day.  Could  our  gymnasts  do  this  ? 

Half  an  hour's  ride  over  a  dusty  and  heavy  road,  all 
out  of  repair,  brought  us  to  the  ancient  city,  which,  in 
its  prime,  occupied  the  heights  on  both  sides  of  a  nar- 
row valley  for  many  miles ;  at  least,  so  Cortez  said. 
There  were  four  great  chiefs  of  the  Eepublic  of  Tlax- 
cala, and  each  dwelt  in  a  grand  palace  on  these  heights. 
The  Spaniards  built  churches  on  the  site  of  each; 
and  we  have  now  only  the  ruinous  old  churches,  and 
the  doubtful  statements  of  fishy,  old  historians,  in  evi- 
dence of  their  once  having  existed.  The  old  town 

along  the  heights  at  the  base  of  the  Cerro  Blanco,  or 
27 


418  THE   FOUR    CHIEFS    OF   TLAXCAlA. 

White  Hills,  lias  nearly  all  disappeared,  and  the  loose 
and  gravelly  soil  has  been  so  washed  by  the  rains  of 
centuries,  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  trace  with  any 
certainty,  its  original  outlines.  There  are  still,  any 
number  of  old  churches,  scattered  here  and  there  all 
over  the  wide  landscape ;  but  where  the  one  hundred 
thousand  people,  who  inhabit  the  little  State  of  Tlax- 
cala, live,  is  more  than  I  could  see. 

The  present  town,  which  is  mostly  Spanish-built,  is 
situated  on  the  flat  between  the  heights,  and  may  con- 
tain five  thousand  people,  I  should  say  at  a  venture. 
It  has  many  buildings  unquestionably  dating  back  to 
the  days  of  Cortez,  and  is  a  place  no  intelligent  trav- 
eler in  Mexico  can  afford  to  omit  visiting. 

The  Governor  of  Tlaxcala,  an  intelligent  gentleman, 
apparently  of  pure  Indian  blood,  with  his  staff  of  officials, 
welcomed  Mr.  Seward,  and  escorted  the  party  to  the 
State  Palace,  an  unpretending  old  building,  in  which 
the  Congress  or  Legislature  meets.  This  building,  poor 
and  plain  as  it  is,  contains  priceless  treasures  for  the 
antiquarian  and  student  of  history. 

In  the  hall  of  Congress,  I  noticed  portraits,  rudely 
painted  in  oil,  of  the  four  Chiefs  of  the  Republic  of 
Tlaxcala  after  they  had  been  converted  to  Christianity. 
Each  has  the  prefix  "Senor  Don"  before  his  name, 
and  a  Christian  name  before  his  unpronunciable  Indian 
surname.  They  are  in  full,  Indian  costume,  and  by  the 
side  of  each  is  his  coat  of  arms.  From  the  mouth  of 
each  issues  the  words  he  pronounced  at  his  baptism. 
One  says  "  Viva  Jesm  /"  another  Viva  Maria  /"  an- 
other "  Viva  Jose  /"  and  the  last  "  Viva  JoacJiin  /"  In 
costume  and  general  appearance  they  would  pass  for 
Navajo  or  Mojave  chiefs  of  the  present  day,  and  I 


THE    ROYAL    BANNER    OF     HERNAISTDO    CORTEZ.       419 

have  no  doubt,  that  they  were  about  on  par  with  them 
in  intelligence  and  civilization.  v> 

O  ,  ' 

In  the  next  room  we  saw  the  identical  royal  banner 
of  Spain,  which  Cortez  unfolded  before  the  eyes  of  the 
astonished  and  delighted  Tlaxcalan  emissaries  at  San 
Juan  de  Ulloa,  and  which,  after  the  conquest  of  Mex- 
ico, he  presented  to  the  city  of  Tlaxcala  in  acknowledge- 
ment of  the  eminent  services  rendered  by  the  Tlaxca- 
laiis,  in  overthrowing  the  old  Aztec  Empire.  Though 
three  hundred  and  forty  years  have  passed  away  since 
it  was  unfurled  on  the  shore  of  Mexico,  it  is  almost 
perfect  to-day.  It  is  some  nine  or  ten  feet  long,  and 
six  broad  "and  swallow  tailed"  in  pattern.  The  mate- 
rial is  rich,  heavy,  silk  brocade,  originally  of  a  light 
"  maroon"  or  possibly  "ashes  of  roses"  color,  and  not 
badly  faded.  The  cords  and  tassels  and  the  points  of 
the  banner  are  a  little  frayed  and  worn,  but  not  badly 
so.  '  The  Shield  with  the  royal  coat  of  arms,  the  two 
castles,  and  two  lions  rampant,  is  embroidered  in  red, 
on  yellow  silk,  and  sewed  upon  the  upper  right  hand 
corner  of  the  banner.  The  iron  open-work  spear-head 
with  the  monogram  of  the  sovereigns  of  Spain  in  the 
center,  once  gilded,  and  the  broken  staff  on  which  the 
banner  was  carried,  are  still  with  it.  Vast  sums  have 
been  offered  for  this  old  banner  to  be  carried  back  to 
Spain,  but  the  city  of  Tlaxcala  has  steadily  refused  to 
part  with  it  at  any  price. 

Then  we  were  shown  numerous  old  banners,  inclu- 
ding those  of  the  ancient  city  and  Republic  of  Tlaxcala 
before  the  Spanish  conquest,  very  rude  and  very  curi- 
ous, and  numberless  manuscripts  of  great  age  and  in- 
terest. One  of  these  old  illuminated  manuscripts,  is  an 
authenticated  translation  of  the  original  Indian  docu- 


420  THE    SECKET    OF    THE    GOLD    PLACERS. 

ment,  ordering,  on  behalf  of  the  Republic  of  Tlaxcala, 
eighty  thousand  picked  men,  to  march  with  Cortez 
against  Mexico.  This  was  translated  by  the  order  of 
Cortez  himself.  Other  documents  beautifully  illumin- 
ated, signed  "  Yo  el  Rey"  (Ixthe  King,)  and  of  the 
time  of  the  Conquest,  are  there  in  abundance,  with 
hundreds  of  later  date,  hardly  less  interesting.  We 
could  have  spent  days  in  looking  over  these  curi- 
ous old  records  of  the  dead  and  now  almost  forgotten 
past,  but  had  only  an  hour  or  two  at  our  command. 

Among  the  curiosities  in  this  room,  is  the  war-drum 
of  the  Tlaxcalans,  a  curiously  carved  and  hollowed  log 
of  dark,  hard  wood,  like  rose-wood,  some  thirty  inches 
in  length  and  six  or  eight  in  thickness,  of  which  a  full 
description  and  good  illustration  is  given  by  Prescott. 
Two  lips  left  on  the  upper  surface,  have  play  enough  to 
give  off  sharp  musical  notes  when  struck  by  the  hand, 
or  with  a  stick,  and  the  instrument,  in  the  hand  of  a 
first-class  professor  of  Tlaxcalan  music,  would  doubt- 
less be  made  to  produce  as  inspiring  strains  as  the  old 
Scotch  bagpipes,  though  I  think  one  of  our  modern 
military  bands  in  full  play  would  discourage  him. 

One  old  document  is  particularly  illustrative  of  the 
character  of  the  pious  people  who  'spread  religion  and 
desolation  through  the  land  of  the  Aztecs.  It  recites, 
that  after  the  conquest,  a  sub-tribe  of  the  Tlaxcalans 
used  to  bring  in  large  quanties  of  gold-dust  from 
some  placer  in  the  vicinity,  the  locality  of  which  they 
refused  to  disclose.  They  gave  enough  of  this  gold  to 
the  Church  to  make  and  pay  for  the  crown  of  the  Vir- 
gin of  Guadaloupe  at  Mexico,  which  cost  eighty  thou- 
sand dollars.  The  Spaniards,  excited  by  the  sight  of 
this  wealth,  took  some  of  the  Indians,  tied  them  up  in 


THE    VIRGIN    OF   TLAXCALA.  421 

the  plaza  in  front  of  the  hall  in  which  we  read  the  rec- 
ords, and  whipped  them  most  unmercifully  to  compel 
them  to  reveal  the  locality  of  the  mine.  The  Indians 
bore  the  torture  in  grim  silence,  and  next  day  twenty 
thousand  of  them,  including  all  who  knew  the  secret, 
left  for  Guatamala,  and  the  locality  of  the  placer  re- 
mains undiscovered  to  this  day. 

The  same  thing  is  now  going  on  in  a  district  between 
Puebla  and  Tuxpan.  The  Indians  are  bringing  in,  from 
time  to  time,  quantities  of  gold  dust,  for  sale,  at  a 
small  town  near  which  has  been  recently  discovered  the 
ruins  of  an  ancient  city.  They  also  brought  in  a  box 
of  stones  which  have  been  pronounced  diamonds  of  the 
first  water,  by  the  jewelers  of  Mexico,  but  refused  to 
tell  where  the  gold  and  stones  came  from.  It  is  sus- 
pected that  they  came  from  the  ruins,  and  a  party  of 
my  personal  friends  are  now  being  fitted  out  in  the 
city  of  Mexico,  to  go  and  make  a  thorough  explora< 
tion  of  the  locality. 

The  Virgin  of  Guadaloupe  has  a  rival  in  this  locality, 
in  the  Virgin  who  has  a  church  on  the  hill  above  the 
city  of  Tlaxcala.  It  is  said  that  the  Bishop  of  Tlax- 
cala  being  pursued  at  night,  by  his  enemies  and  the  en- 
emies of  the  Faith,  saw  the  Virgin  among  the  limbs  of 
a  pine-tree,  and  just  at  the  moment  of  his  direst  ex- 
tremity, the  trunk  of  the  tree  flew  open,  and  shutting 
again  like  the  trap-door  in  a  pantomime,  enclosed  him 
within  it.  The  enemy  ran  past  without  discovering  his 
whereabouts,  or,  what  is  more  singular,  noticing  the  lu- 
minous Virgin  roosting  in  the  tree  overhead,  and  the 
tree,  opening  again,  let  him  out  in  safety.  Of  course 
this  miracle  could  not  be  kept  secret,  and  the  church 
which  was  erected  on  the  spot,  rivals  that  of  Guada- 


422     THE  OLDEST  CHURCH  ON  THE  CONTINENT. 

loupe  in  sanctity  and  attraction  for  the  Indians  of 
Tlaxcala  and  its  vicinity.  I  think  it  is  but  right  that 
it  should  do  so  under  all  the  circumstances. 

We  went  with  the  Governor  to  the  ancient  church 
of  Tlaxcala,  which  was  commenced  in  1529,  and  is,  un- 
questionably, the  oldest  structure  devoted  to  the  wor- 
ship of  God  on  the  North  American  continent.  It  is 
in  excellent  preservation,  but  was  never  very  rich  in 
ornamentation,  falling  far  behind  many  others  we  had 
seen  in  obscure  parts  of  the  country.  The  paintings 
too  are  poor  and  if  it  were  not  for  its  history  there 
would  be  little  to  attract  a  visitor.  But  there  we  saw 
the  pulpit  which  bears  an  inscription  showing  that  it 
was  the  first  erected  in  "  New  Spain,"  and  from  whence 
the  gospel  of  the  Cross  was  first  preached  to  the  na- 
tives of  the  New  World. 

Then  we  saw  the  great  baptismal  font,  hollowed 
from  a  single  block  of  lava,  in  which  were  baptised  the 
four  Chiefs  of  the  Republic  of  Tlaxcala,  and  the  Gen- 
eral in  command  of  the  armies  before  the  advance  upon 
the  City  of  Mexico.  There  are  many  old  paintings  of 
no  artistic  merit,  representing  martyrdoms  and  persecu- 
tions of  the  saints  in  all  forms.  Those  old  saints 
must  have  had  a  very  rough  time  of  it  from  all  ac- 
counts and  after  seeing  what  they  had  to  suffer,  I  am 
thankful  enough  that  an  all- wise  Providence  never  de- 
signed me  for  one.  I  don't  think  I  could  fill  the  posi- 
tion with  any  degree  of  credit  to  all  parties  concerned. 
One  picture  represents  the  Pope  in  a  triumphal  car 
drawn  by  four  fat  and  healthy  horses,  each  led  by  a  fat 
and  healthy  angel,  riding  over  the  bodies  of  the  "  He- 
formers,"  and  dragging  behind  him  in  chains  and  dis- 
grace, Luther  and  Calvin.  Rather  rough,  this  on  the 


THE  MIEACLE  OF  TLAXCALA.  423 

reformers,  but  it  is  their  business,  not  mine,  and  if  they 
can  stand  it,  I  can.  The  ceiling  under  the  roof  of  this 
old  church  is  a  marvel  of  beauty.  It  is  of  cedar  col- 
ored by  time  to  the  hue  of  mahogany,  wrought  with 
exquisite  skill,  gilded  in  places,  and  varnished.  Tra- 
dition says  that  this  work  was  done  by  the  angels  in 
the  night,  and  tljat  when  the  Bishop  came  at  morn- 
ing to  begin  it,  he  found  to  his  astonishment  that  they 
had  completed  the  church  and  left  him  nothing  more  to 
do.  All  over  the  country  the  same  or  similar  work 
was  done  on  the  churches,  the  angels  in  most  cases  do- 
ing as  much  at  night  as  the  workmen  did  during  the 
day,  and  so  the  structure  was  half  mortal  and  half  im- 
mortal in  its  origin.  In  this  case  they  did  the  ceiling 
entire,  and  it  stands  unharmed  by  time  in  all  its  perfect 
beauty  to  this  hour.  If  I  were  a  doubter  or  scoffer — 
which  I  am  not — I  might  be  tempted  to  suggest  that 
the  miracle  would  have  been  more  conclusive  and  ef- 
fective, if  the  angels  had  come  down  in  broad  daylight, 
and  performed  the  work  in  sight  of  the  people ;  but 
niy  faith  enables  me  to  see  that  their  doing  it  after 
dark,  in  silence,  and  without  even  a  candle  or  lantern 
to  attract  the  attention  of  the  public,  makes  the  mira- 
cle all  the  more  wonderful,  and  the  work  more  glorious. 
The  job  was  done,  that  is  certain,  for  there  is  the  del- 
icate fretted  ceiling,  as  perfect  to-day  as  it  was  three 
hundred  and  forty  years  ago,  and  I  for  one,  find  it 
cheaper  and  easier  to  believe  at  once,  than  to  waste 
time  in  raising  doubts  and  discussing  questions  which 
profit  a  man  nothing. 

After  we  left  the  church,  a  party  of  irreverent  peo- 
ple from  California,  who  came  down  by  a  train  from 
Mexico,  visited  it,  and  carrying  a  basket  of  champagne 


424  CARRYING    DEAD-HEADS. 

up  to  the  belfrey,  proceeded  to  drink  it  and  ring  the 
bells  in  our  honor,  as  we  drove  off  for  Santa  Anna 
again. 

Among  the  decorations  of  this  primitive  church,  are 
several  effigies  and  pictures  of  Christ,  of  a  character  so 
utterly  revolting  as  to  fairly  make  one  sick.  It  is  al- 
leged in  explanation,  that  the  Indians  required  very 
vivid  illustrations,  to  excite  their  imagination  and  fix 
religious  impressions  in  their  minds.  These  ought  to 
fetch  them.  In  one  chapel  there  is  a  full-sized  effigy 
of  Christ  upon  the  cross.  His  head  is  covered  with  an 
enormous  shock  wig  of  brown-red  hair,  the  eyes,  mouth, 
and  nose  discharging  blood,  wounds  and  bruises  on 
every  limb  and  feature,  and  the  agony  and  pallor  of 
the  dying  struggle  so  fearfully  counterfeited  as  to  pro- 
duce, in  my  mind  at  least,  a  sense  of  loathing  and  nau- 
sea almost  uncontrollable.  I  would  as  soon  think  of 
going  to  a  slaughter-house  to  worship  the  All-Merciful 
God  who  created  the  Heaven  and  the  Earth,  and  made 
man  in  his  own  image  and  a  little  lower  than  the  An- 
gels, as  to  that  chamber  of  horrors,  in  the  first  Chris- 

O  /  ' 

tian  church  erected  on  the  American  Continent. 

There  are  some  old  skulls  lying  about  the  church, 
and  the  Californians  put  two  of  them  into  the  shawl 
which  Mr.  Gliddon  was  carrying,  lie  did  not  discover 
the  trick  for  some  time,  and  when  he  did  so  he  restored 
them  to  their  place  with  the  quiet  remark,  that 
as  the  superintendent  of  trains  on  the  railway,  he  had 
been  carrying  so  many  "  dead-heads "  of  late,  that  he 
did  not  notice  the  presence  of  one  or  two,  more  or  less, 
unless  his  attention  was  specialy  drawn  to  them.  We 
got  back  to  Santa  Anna  at  6  p.  M.,  and  returned  to  Pu- 
ebla  to  dinner. 


AN   EXCURSION    TO    CHOLULA.  425 

On  the  20th  of  December,  our  party  re-enforced  by  a 
number  of  friends  from  the  capital,  started  in  carriages 
for  Cholula,  to  visit  the  pyramid  of  which  nearly  every 
school-boy  has  seen  a  picture  in  his  geography,  A  ride 
of  two  leagues  over  a  rough  and  dusty  road,  through 
an  open  country,  brought  us  to  the  ancient  city,  said  to 
have  once  contained  four  hundred  thousand  people.  It 
is  situated  in  an  open  plain,  with  the  grand  circle  of 
great  mountains,  Popocatapetl,  El  Muger  en  Blanco, 
Malinchi,  Orizaba  and  the  lesser  peaks  in  the  distance. 
It  must  have  suffered  fearfully  from  the  Spanish  con- 
querors, and  has  been  steadily  declining  in  importance 
to  the  present  day,  being  now  but  a  mere  fragment  of  its 
former  self. 

The  people  are  nearly  all  of  unmixed  Indian  blood, 
hardy,  industrious,  and  peculiarly  respectful  and  well- 
behaved.  They  cultivate  a  wide  area  of  fertile  valley 
land,  in  a  manner  reminding  one  of  the  Chinese,  and 
supply  the  City  of  Puebla,  almost  exclusively,  with 
market  vegetables. 

After  the  party  entered  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  the 
appearance  of  Mr.  Seward  seldom  produced  any  re- 
markable demonstrations  of  enthusiasm  among  the  com- 
mon people,  and  we  had  no  reason  to  expect  any  different 
reception  at  Cholula,  in  view  of  the  apathy  manifested 
at  Puebla,  so  near  at  hand.  But  we  were  destined  to  wit- 
ness a  display,  as  novel  and  curious  as  it  was  unexpected. 

The  whole  country  abounds  with  old  churches,  all 
of  which  have  chimes  of  fine-toned  bells  still  remain- 
ing in  their  towers,  though  the  greater  portion  of  them 
have  but  a  limited  number  of  worshipers  within  their 
walls  at  any  time  in  these  latter  and  degenerate  days. 
As  we  neared  Cholula  the  people  were  seen  running 


420  NOVEL    AND    ENTHUSIASTIC    RECEPTION. 

through  the  fields  towards  the  town,  and  the  bells  com- 
menced ringing  from  every  tpwer  in  the  city  and  its  sul> 
urbs.  The  number  of  bells  which  thus  at  once  sent  forth 
their  voices  in  welcome  to  the  stranger,  could  hardly 
have  been  less  than  one  hundred,  and  the  ringers 
worked  as  if  life  and  death  depended  on  their  exer- 
tions. 

When  the  procession  reached  the  Plaza,  two  fine 
brass-bands — all  the  musicians  being  natives  of  Cholula 
• — struck  up  their  liveliest  airs,  the  Prefecto  Politico 
and  the  Ayuntemento  of  the  town  came  forward  to 
welcome  Mr.  Seward,  and  the  party,  dismounting  from 
the  carriages,  marched  to  the  town-hall,  the  entire 
population,  men,  women,  and  children,  with  eager  curi- 
osity depicted  on  their  features,  following,  or  running 
by  their  side.  In  the  hall,  behind  the  desk  of  the  Pre- 
fecto,  was  a  full-length  portrait  of  the  Virgin  of  Gua- 
daloupe,  and  on  the  desk  lay  two  silver  maces  with 
globes  at  the  end  surmounted  with  the  eagle  and  nopal 
of  Mexico.  These  emblems  of  authority  are  not  unlike 
in  appearance  to  the  mace  represented  in  the  picture  of 
Cromwell  disbanding  the  Long  Parliament,  when  he 
exclaims,  "  take  away  that  fool's  bauble  !" 

The  Prefecto  made  a  warm  and  sensible  speech  in 
behalf  of  the  people  and  Ayuntemento  of  Cholula, 
welcoming  Mr.  Seward  and  his  friends  to  the  hospitali- 
ties of  the  ancient  city,  and  alluding  in  warm  terms  to 
the  services  rendered  to  the  cause  of  Mexican  independ- 
ence, through  him,  by  the  Government  and  people  of 
the  United  States ;  to  which  Mr.  Seward  replied ; 

SIR  :  The  attendance  of  the  civil  authorities  of  the  District, 
the  complete  array  of  the  municipality  of  Cholula,  more  than 
both,  the  grave  procession  and  thoughtful  assemblage  of  citizens, 


ME.  SE WARD'S  ADDRESS  TO  THE  CHOLULANS. 

leave  me  no  room  to  doubt  the  sincerity  of  your  generous  words 
of  welcome.  The  scene  seems  to  me  like  one  of  those  which 
awaken  momentary  inspiration.  I  am  on  the  steps  af  the  Az- 
tec Pyramid,  which  is  one  of  the  most  stupendous  altars  of  hu- 
man sacrifice  that  was  ever  erected  to  propitiate  the  Deity,  in 
the  ages  when  he  was  universally  understood  to  be  a  God  of 
Vengeance.  Around  me  lies  that  magnificent  plain  where  an 
imperial  savage  throne  was  brought  down  to  the  dust,  by  the 
just  revenge  of  an  oppressed  aboriginal  Republic.  I  am  sur- 
rounded by  Christian  churches  and  altars  which  tell  how  for- 
eign civilized  states  exacted  eternal  subjugation,  and  the  civil 
bondage  of  a  rude  people,  in  return  for  conveying  to  them  the 
Gospel  of  "  Pea^e  on  earth  and  good  will  toward  man." 

The  serious  Republican  aspect  and  deportment  of  the  chil- 
dren of  the  Aztecs  to  whom  I  am  speaking,  remind  me  that  af- 
ter a  long  contest  with  ecclesiastical,  monarch ial,  and  imperial 
ambitions,  the  independence  of  the  ancient  Aztec  race  has  been 
reconquered  without  the  loss  of  the  Christian  Religion,  and 
consolidated  in  a  Representative  Federal  Republic.  Witnesses 
of  towering  majesty  and  impressive  silence,  are  looking  down 
upon  me ;  La  Malinchi,  bewildering  because  she  is  indistinct, 
and  the  volcanoes  Popocatapetl,  Ixtacihuatl  and  Orizaba,  clad 
in  their  eternal  vestments  of  snow,  attest  that  nature  remains 
unchangable,  and  only  men,  nations,  and  races,  are  subject  to 
moral  revolution. 

Gentlemen  and  Citizens :  the  circumstance  that  I  am  here,  not 
as  an  enemy,  but  as  a  friend ;  a  friend  of  the  town  of  Cholula, 
a  friend  of  the  State  of  Puebla,  a  friend  of  the  Republic  of 
Mexico,  enables  me  to  study  Mexico,  her  country  and  people, 
more  carefully,  and  I  trust  to  understand  them  better.  From 
this  place  at  once  so  sacred  and  so  imposing,  I  must  take  leave 
to  say  to  all  states  and  nations,  that  Mexico  neither  needs,  nor 
desires  foreign  protection,  that  she  is  capable  of  independence 
and  self  government,  and  susceptible  of  friendship ;  but  that 
in  her  case  as  in  all  others,  those  who  would  enjoy  her  friend- 
ship must  offer  her  on  their  part  a  friendship,  which,  though  it 
may  not  be  benevolent,  must  at  least  be  sincere  and  disinter- 
ested. 


TIMEr8    BEVENGES. 

The  party,  on  the  conclusion  of  Mr.  Seward's  re- 
marks, were  escorted  to  the  house  of  the  Prefecto  for  a 
brief  rest.  At  2  p.  M.,  the  bands  drew  up  in  front  of 
the  house,  and  the  party,  escorted  as  before  by  the  whole 
population,  started  for  the  fine  old  parochial  church  of 
Cholula,  the  second  in  age  in  Mexico.  This  church, 
though  of  enormous  size  and  surrounded  by  an  im- 
mense flagged  court  or  plaza,  is  not  to  be  compared  to 
many  others  in  the  country  for  magnificence.  In  style 
it  is  purely  Moorish  and  quite  unique.  There  are  fifty- 
six  low  Moorish  arches,  supported  by  sixty -four  columns 
painted  in  brilliant  lime  colors,  and  the  altar  and  other 
appurtenances  are  all  curiously  antique  in  style  and 
character.  There  are,  of  course,  many  old  pictures,  but 
none  of  them  struck  me  as  particularly  fine.  The 
church  was  commenced  in  1530,  and  stands  to-day  ex- 
actly as  it  was  finished  more  than  three  and  a  quarter 
centuries  ago. 

The  scene  on  the  entry  of  the  party  to  the  church, 
was  worthy  the  pencil  of  a  painter,  and  curiously  illus- 
trative of  time's  revenges.  Where  Cortez  and  his 
companions  had  bowed  the  knee,  and  knelt  with  un- 
covered heads  when  the  Host  was  raised  above  the  mul- 
titude, came  an  old  grey-headed  statesman,  from  a  land 
then  unknown,  who  had  slept  in  Maximilian's  bed  the 
previous  night,  walking  by  the  side  of  a  descendant  of 
those  who  crucified  the  Savior  on  Mount  Calvary,  and 
escorted  by  the  authorities  of  this  ancient  strong-hold 
of  the  Faith,  while  an  American — Col.  Green — with 
pale,  sharp-cut,  representative  face,  and,  tall,  slender  fig- 
ure, clad  in  the  uniform  of  the  Mexican  Army,  led  on 
the  band  of  swarthy  Aztecs,  who  were  playing  with  a 
will,  the  "  March  of  Zaragoza,"  an  air  as  obnoxious  to 


THE  GREAT  PYRAMID  OF  CHOLULA.         429 

the  strict  liigli  church  party,  as  is  the  Marseillaise  to 
Napoleon  III.  The  tall  form  of  Mr.  Nelson,  the  United 
States  Minister,  towered  above  the  crowd  behind ;  by 
his  side  walked  General  Slaughter — late  of  the  Con- 
federate army — or  of  the  late  Confederate  army — and 
after  them  came  a  crowd  of  Californians  whose  devo- 
tion to  the  cause  of  liberty  is  undoubted,  but  whose  re- 
ligious convictions  of  any  kind,  never  deprived  them 
of  their  capacity  for  imbibing  champagne,  nor  kept 
them  awake  at  night.  A  thousand  curious  natives  fol- 
lowed, and  seemed  to  heartily  enjoy  the  entertainment. 

After  a  half-hour  spent  in  viewing  the  old  church, 
the  party  started  to  ascend  the  great  pyramid,  which 
stands  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  but  five  minutes' 
walk  from  the  church.  All  the  world  knows  at  this 
day  all  that  anybody  knows,  of  the  history  of  this  pyr- 
amid. That  it  dates  back  to  the  days  when  the  people 
of  Egypt  were  erecting  the  pyramids  which  still  form 
the  land-marks  in  the  Valley  of  the  Nile,  cannot  be 
doubted,  and  that  it  upheld  a  heathen  temple,  and  was 
drenched  with  the  blood  of  thousands  on  thousands  of 
the  human  race,  offered  up  as  sacrifices  to  savage  gods, 
is,  unfortunately,  too  well  authenticated.  The  pictures 
I  have  seen  of  the  pyramid  give  no  clear  idea  of  it,  as 
they  represent  the  sides  and  angles  of  the  terraces,  as 
too  sharp  and  well  defined.  I  think,  that  at  no  time 
since  the  conquest  has  the  pyramid  presented  an  ap- 
pearance much  different  from  what  it  does  at  present. 

One  of  the  gentlemen  in  attendance  on  the  Governor 
told  me  that  the  pyramid  covered  a  space  equal  to  a 
little  more  than  forty-three  acres  at  the  base,  and  that 
its  height  was  one  hundred  and  seventy-nine  feet,  En- 
glish, or  thereabouts.  I  should,  at  a  venture,  have  esti- 


430  THE    GREAT    PYRAMID    OJf    GHOLULA. 

mated  the  size  of  the  base  at  less  than  half  that  stated, 
and  the  height  at  nearly  double  the  figures  given,  but 
presume  that  accurate  measurements  must  have  been 
made  at  some  time,  and  its  real  dimensions  are  prob- 
ably known.  The  lower  terrace  is  quite  perfect,  but 
the  upper  ones  have  become^  so  washed  by  the  rains 
and  disturbed  by  the  great  trees  which  have  taken 
root  in  the  soil,  that  they  are  traceable,  with  certainty, 
only  in  a  few  places.  A  winding  or  zig-zag  pathway, 
some  thirty  feet  in  width,  and  paved  with  lava,  leads 
up  to  the  summit  of  the  pyramid.  The  old  Spanish 
Zealots  erected  a  Christian  Church  on  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  heathen  temple,  and  that,  too,  becoming  dilapi- 
dated and  untenable  with  the  lapse  of  years,  was 
pulled  down,  and  a  new  and  very  tasteful  chapel, 
erected  altogether  by  the  labor  of  native  Indian  crafts- 
men, is  now  being  finished,  and  will  soon  be  dedicated 
to  the  service  of  the  Christian's  God.  With  the  vanity 
of  the  human  race,  this  pyramid  has  been  selected,  also, 
for  a  burial  place,  and  we  saw  several  new  graves  on 
the  upper  terrace,  in  the  soil  which  has  been  soaked, 
time  and  time  again,  with  the  blood  of  human  sacrifices. 

Two  immense  cedar  trees,  which  must  have  been 
standing  on  the  summit  in  the  days  of  Cortez,  were  cut 
down,  or  hopelessly  mutilated  by  the  workmen  engaged 
in  erecting,  the  new  chapel,  and  our  party  carried  off 
numerous  samples  of  the  wood  as  souvenirs  of  their 
visit. 

It  has  been  the  commonly  accepted  theory  of  the 
origin  of  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula,  that  it  was  built  as 
a  temple  and  place  for  human  sacrifice,  altogether  by 
the  hand  of  man ;  but  while  standing  on  its  summit,  and 


ITS    COMPAKATIVE   INSIGNIFICANCE.  431 

looking  on  the  grand  landscape  which  surrounds  it,  a 
new  theory  suggested  itself  to  me.  The,  pyramids  in 
the  Valley  of  the  Nile  stand  out  bold  and  grand,  the 
great  central  figures  in  the  scene,- — undwarfed  by  com- 
parison with  any  great  mountains  in  the  vicinity.  We 
can  understand  how  men  could  seek  to  erect  in  such 
a  locality,  an  enduring  monument  to  their  power  and 
greatness.  But  here,  in  full  view  of  Orizaba  and  Popo- 
catapetl,  the  mightiest  work  of  man  is  but  a  mole-hill 
hardly  worthy  of  a  moments  notice,  and  even  the  ego- 
tism of  the  most  barbaric  nature  must  stand  rebuked 
in  the  presence  of  these  perfect  works  of  the  Almighty 
hand.  I  do  not  believe  that  there  was  ever  a  race  on 
earth  so  vain  as  to  erect  such  a  monument  in  such  a  lo- 
cality ;  and  furthermore,  there  was  no  necessity  for  such 
an  expenditure  of  time  and  labor  as  the  erection  of  such 
a  pile  of  adobe,  in  the  Plain  of  Cholula,  as  this  pyra- 
mid, if  wholly  artificial,  would  have  called  for.  Scat- 
tered through  all  the  valleys  of  Central  Mexico,  are  de- 
tached hills,  composed  of  washed  gravel  and  earth, 
equal  or  superior  in  size  to  this  pyramid.  You  can  see 
a  number  of  them  from  the  point  where  we  stood. 

It  seems  to  me  quite  probable  that  one  of  these  hills 
stood  here  where  the  Cholulans  built  their  city;  and 
that  in  order  to  fit  it  for  use  as  a  temple,  they  merely 
cut  away  the  sides,  and  terraced  it  into  its  pyramidal 
form.  The  angles  and  faces  of  the  terraces  thus  formed, 
must  "be  protected  from  the  effects  of  the  storms,  which 
would  soon  wash  down  the  entire  mound,  and  so  they 
faced  it  over  with  adobes,  laid  up  with  care  and  inter- 
mixed with  lava,  which  soon  became  a  solid,  concrete 
mass,  as  we  see  it  to  day.  The  adobes  and  layers  of 
lava  are  perfect  at  many  points,  but  in  other  places, 


432       A  NEW  THEORY  AS  TO  THE  PYRAMID. 

where  the  storms  of  thousands  of  years  have  told  most 
strongly,  they  seem  to  have  disappeared,  and  I  thought 
I  could  recognize  the  original  formation  of  the  hill 
beneath. 

A  little  way  off  from  the  main  pyramid  is  a  smaller 
one,  less  regular  in  its  outline,  Vhich  is  supposed  by 
many — without  any  good  reason  that  I  can  discover- 
to  have  been  originally  a  part  of  the  greatest  structure ; 
and  a  little  farther  away,  an  oblong  pile  of  earth,  with 
perfectly  precipitous  sides,  resembling  in  shape  a  wagon 
load  of  hay  or  straw.     Both  these  are  evidently  artifi- 
cial.    There  are  no  excavations  in  any  direction   for 
many  miles  around  the  great  pyramid,  from  whence  the 
vast  amount  of  material  for  building  it  could  have  been 
taken,  and  the  finely  cultivated  fields  which,  cut  by 
regular  streets,  radiate  from  the  pyramid  in  all  direc- 
tions, indicate  that  the  soil  and  surface  of  the  ground 
in  the  vicinity,  have  never  been  disturbed.     May  it  not 
be  that  the  Cholulans,  simply  cut  away  the  sides  of  the 
original  hill  as  I  have  suggested,  and  with  the  earth 
thus  removed,  formed  the  smaller  pyramid  and  lesser 
irregular  pile  near  by  ?     I  do  not  care  enough  for  any 
theoiy  on  any  subject,  to  defend  this  one  if  it  is  ever 
attacked ;  but  it  seems  to  me  to  be  a.  rational  one  under 
all  the  circumstances. 

Members  of  the  Ayuntamento  accompanied  us  to  the 
pyramid,  a  servant  carrying  before  them  the  silver- 
headed  canes  which  serve  as  badges  of  their  office.  Af- 
ter seeing  all  there  was  to  be  seen  on  the  pyramid  we 
descended,  and  returning  to  the  Prefect's  house  partook 
of  an  elegant  collation.  Toasts  were  given  and  re- 
sponded to  freely,  and  in  the  midst  of  the  festivities,  in 
marched  a  band,  of  the  ancient  Aztec  class. 


THE  MUSIC  OF  OTHER  DAYS.  433 

The  music  produced  by  the  three  pieces,  an  Indian 
flute,  kettle-drum,  and  a  drum  shaped  like  a  flour  bar- 
rel, and  made  like  it  of  thin  pieces  of  wood,  hooped, 
with  one  end  resting  on  the  ground,  bore  a  startling  re- 
semblance to  that  which  you  may  hear  any  night  in  the 
Chinese  theatres  in  San  Francisco,  being  pitched  at  the 
same  high  key,  and  the  air  being  almost  identical  with 
the  "Song  of  the  Jasmin  Flower,"  which  is  the  favorite, 
through  all  the  central  Flowery  Empire. 

The  dark-hued,  sandaled,  and  white-robed  musicians 
played  on  through  all  stages  of  the  entertainments,  with 
faces  as  impassive  as  those  of  so  many  bronze  statues, 
Only  once  did  I  see  a  look  of  startled  interest  for  a  mo- 
ment steal  over  their  faces.     It  was  when  the  Prefecto 
gave  the  health  of  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
and  the  health  of  President  Juarez  being  given  in  re- 
sponse, the  Americans  gave  three  rousing  cheers,  and 
the  Californians,  springing  to  their  feet,  made  the  air  of 
the  sleepy,  old  town,  ring  with  the  wild  yell  of  "  the 
tiger."     The  look  I  had  noticed  faded  from  their  faces 
as  it  came  in  an  instant,  and  the  music,  so  wild,  and 
strange  and  weird,  went  on  as  before.     When  Colonel 
Green  plied  them  with  champagne,  and  whistled  to 
them  "  Jordon  am  a  hard  road  to  travel,"  they  took  up 
the  air,  and  played  it  with  the  same  cold,  quiet  manner 
as  they  had  played  those  of  their   native  land ;  and 
when  paid  and  dismissed,  they  marched  away  in  grave, 
respectful  silence,  without  a  word  or  action  to  indicate 
whether  they  were  pleased  or    displeased  with    the 
days — to  them — novel  proceedings. 

Mr.  Seward  was  presented  with  a  certificate  of  hon- 
orary membership  of  the  Ayuntamento,    or    Common 
Council  of  Cholula,  and  with  wishes  of  success  and  a 
28 


434 


THE    CATHEDRAL    OF   PUEBLA. 


pleasant  reunion  with  old  friends  among  the  home 
scenes  of  our  native  land,  the  kind  people  of  Cholula 
bid  us  good-bye,  and  in  the  gloaming  of  the  evening  we 
rode  back  to  Puebla. 

I  shall  attempt  no 
elaborate  description 
of  the  Cathedral  of 
Puebla,    for    several 
good    and    sufficient 
reasons.     One  is,  that 
no  description  could 
give  the  reader  any 
adequate  idea  of  the 
vast  proportions, 
great  wealth,  and  ex- 
ceeding   beauty   and 
grandeur  of  this  won- 
derful temple  of  the 
Christian  faith,and  an- 
other is,  that  so  many 
descriptions     have 
been   attempted   and 

resulted  in  failures,  that  I  have  no  ambition  to  follow 
in  the  old,  beaten  track,  knowing  that  I  cannot  com- 
mand the  language  adequate  for  success. 

The  Seward  party  visited  the  cathedral,  and  saw  all 
its  wonders,  from  the  grand  choir,  which  outside  is  one 
mass  of  gilding  and  burnished  precious  metal,  and  in- 
side a  curious  mosaic  of  beautiful  woods  inlaid  with 
wonderful  skill,  the  great  altar,  which  is  built  of  varie- 
gated marbles,  alabaster,  and  other  beautiful  stones 
from  the  State  of  Puebla,  and  gold  and  silver  by  the 
cart-load,  the  great  pillars  of  bluish-grey  granite,  sup- 


OUR  AZTEC   MUSICIANS  AT  CHOLULA. 


ITS    WONDERFUL    WEALTH    AND    BEAUTY.  435 

porting  arches  of  the  same  material  which  uphold  the 
immense  weight  of  the  solid  stone  roof,  and  the  four- 
teen stations  of  the  cross — each  a  marvel  in  itself — to 
the  skeletons  of  the  saints  and  martyrs,  covered  with 
wax  and  so  artistically  wrought  into  the  semblance  of 
fresh  human  forms  as  to  cheat  the  eye  completely, 
dressed  in  robes  of  great  richness,  and  shodden  with 
golden  sandals  set  with  gems,  which  lie  in  state,  each 
in  its  own  great  casket,  all  around  the  building.  Even 
the  tomb  of  the  Bishops  was  thrown  open  and  in- 
spected. 

The  mighty  pillars  were  covered  from  their  capitals 
down  to  the  pavement,  with  crimson  silk  plush,  edged 
and  embroidered  with  gold,  in  preparation  for  the 
grand  Christmas  festivities,  and  the  whole  church  was 
being  cleaned  and  prepared  for  the  occasion.  The  last 
time  the  metal  work — then  nearly  all  gold  and  silver — 
in  this  cathedral  was  cleaned,  the  work  cost  four  thou- 
sand dollars  in  coin,  though  done  at  the  least  possible 
expense. 

Much  of  the  riches  of  this  old  cathedral  have  disap- 
peared within  a  few  years,  it  is  said,  but  the  eye  of  the 
stranger  looks  in  vain  for  any  trace  of  the  hand  of  the 
despoiler,  save  where  once  hung  near  the  main  entrance, 
the  great  chandelier,  which  Miramon  took  down  and 
melted  up,  to  pay  his  troops  for  fighting  the  battles  of 
the  church  against  the  Republicans.  He  got  forty 
thousand  dollars  out  of  this  chandelier,  and  the  curses 
of  all  the  pious  Catholics  of  Mexico,  who  were  quite 
willing  he  should  fight  for  the  church,  but  wished  him 
to  make  the  enemy — not  the  church — pay  the  cost,  and 
denounced  the  act  as  one  of  sacrilege,  sure  to  bring 
down  destruction  on  its  author. 


436  OTHER   OBJECTS   OF   INTEREST. 

What  the  value  of  the  gold,  silver,  and  precious 
stones  in  the  cathedral  at  present  may  be,  I  have  no 
idea,  and  no  one  can  do  more  than  make  a  random 
guess  at  it.  I  was  greatly  disappointed  in  the  cathe- 
dral of  Mexico,  which  is  much  dilapidated,  dusty,  and 
tarnished  throughout,  and  fell  far  short  of  my  ideal, 
formed  from  descriptions  I  had  read  of  it ;  but  the  ca- 
thedral of  Puebla  far  surpassed  my  expectations. 

We  visited  many  other  churches,  the  old  college  of 
the  Jesuits,  and  the  library — now  secularized  and  thrown 
open  to  the  public — which  contains  twenty-four  thou- 
sand four  hundred  volumes,  mostly  of  great  age,  and 
valuable  only  to  the  antiquarian ;  the  school  of  design ; 
the  Glass  Factory  of  Puebla,  which  is  among  the  most 
extensive  and  complete  works  of  the  kind  on  the  conti- 
nent; the  hills  and  fortifications  of  Loreto  and  Gua- 
daloupe,  from  which  the  French  army,  forty  thousand 
strong,  was  repulsed  in  the  attack  of  the  Cinco  de 
Mayo,  and  many  other  objects  of  interest  in  and  around 
Puebla. 

Among  the  places  visited  was  the  Public  Hospital  of 
San  Pedro,  an  excellent  institution,  clean,  neat,  and  ad- 
mirably managed,  containing  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
three  patients,  of  which  fifty  were  women.  While 
there,  a  printed  slip  was  handed  around  with  the  follow- 
ing inscription : 

"The  American  and  Mexican  Union  are  Sisters. 
Therefore  the  Asylums  of  the  sick  of  Puebla,  present 
their  respects  to  the  Hon.  Mr.  Seward  as  one  of  their 
Brothers.  Hospital  gral  de  San  Pedro  Dicienibre  21 
de  1869." 

The  manifestations  in  honor  of  Mr.  Seward  closed 
with  a  dinner  to  forty  gentlemen,  mostly  Mexicans. 


SEEKERS    FOR    BURIED    TREASURES.  437 

given  by  His  Excellency,  the  Governor  of  Puebla,  Se- 
nor  Don  Ignacio  Romero  y  Vargas.  At  the  banquet 
Mr.  Seward  excused  himself  from  making  any  lengthy 
speech  in  answer  to  the  toasts  in  his  honor,  on  the 
ground  that  he  had  already  said  enough  to  fully  convey 
his  ideas  of  matters  and  things  in  Mexico  since  he 
landed  at  Manzanillo,  and  did  not  care  to  impress 
his  own  countrymen  with  the  idea  that  he  was  be- 
coming unduly  garrulous  and  loquacious.  He  said  of 
Mexico : 

"  The  season  of  her  calamities  is  ended ;  Mexico  is  still 
youthful,  ambitious,  hopeful.  She  possesses  all  the  ma- 
terial and  moral  elements  of  national  greatness.  All 
that  her  people  want  is  rest  and  peace,  for  five  years, 
ten  years,  twenty  years  or  fifty  years ;  the  longer  the  bet- 
ter ;  and  she  may  now  assume  the  way  that  leads  to  pros- 
perity and  power  among  the  nations.  For  this  reason, 
when  at  Vera  Cruz  I  shall  be  bidding  adieu  to  Mexico, 
I  shall  wrest  the  inscription,  "  Requiescat  in  pace"  from 
its  customary  application  to  the  dead,  and  use  it  with 
all  the  inspiration  of  hope,  affection,  and  gratitude,  as 
an  invocation  of  a  blessing  upon  the  living,  "  Mexico 
Requiescat  in  Pace ! " 

The  stupid  ignorance  of  the  numerous  seekers  after 
the  treasure  supposed  to  have  been  buried  in  the  United 
States  by  that  famous  Captain,  whose  "  name  was  Rob- 
ert Kidd,  when  I  sailed,' when  I  sailed,"  and  the  Cali- 
fornian  expeditionists  in  search  of  the  pirate  treasure 
buried  on  Cocos  Island,  has  its  parallel  in  that  of  the 
buried  treasure  hunters  of  Mexico  to-day.  All  over 
the  country  the  impression  prevails,  that  the  Jesuits, 
when  suddenly  expelled  from  Mexico  by  the  Spanish 
Government,  buried,  or  otherwise  concealed  millions  of 


438  A   BASE   IMPOSITION. 

dollars  worth  of  treasure,  gold  and  silver  statues,  church 
plate,  jewels,  etc.,  etc.,  and  millions  have  been  expended 
and  are  still  being  expended,  in  search  of  the  precious 
deposits. 

Mr.  Adolpho  Blumenkron  is  one  of  the  most  invet- 
erate of  these  treasure  seekers.  s  As  we  rode  out  of  the 
city,  we  were  shown  several  old  convent  and  church 
structures  of  great  extent,  now  secularized,  which  he 
has  purchased,  and  mined  under  and  burrowed  about, 
like  a  ferret,  in  search  of  the  treasure  of  the  Fathers, 
but  always  with  the  same  total  want  of  success.  He 
told  us,  how  on  one  occasion  he  found  the  vault  in 
which  were  buried  some  of  the  old  church  dignitaries 
of  Cortez's  time,  and  looking  down  into  it,  was  glad- 
dened by  the  sight  of  two  mummies  each  with  a  golden 
crown  upon  his  head.  He  was  into  that  vault  in  no 
time,  with  the  help  of  Providence  and  a  crowbar,  and 
bore  the  glittering  crowns  out  to  the  light  of  day. 
Fancy  his  feelings,  when  with  trembling  hands  he  ap- 
plied a  file  to  the  gaudy  baubles,  and  found  them  to  be 
a  base  cheat,  a  sham,  bilk,  delusion,  fraud,  and  rascally 
imposition  !  Would  you  believe  it  ?  those  crowns  were 
made  of  tin  or  some  other  base  metal,  and  gilded,  and 
if  the  holy  fathers  ever  had  any  others — save  the  final 
crown  of  glory — they  were  not  buried  in  them,  for  rea- 
sons best  known  to  themselves  or  their  servants. 

It  is  believed  that  there  were  twelve  statues  of  the 
Apostles  of  life  size,  made  wholly  from  silver  and  gold, 
in  the  Jesuit  College,  and  that  the  fathers — having  re- 
ceived a  secret  intimation  of  the  intention  of  the  Gov- 
ernment— buried  them  somewhere  thereabouts,  and  the 
search  for  them  is  not  yet  abandoned. 

In  the  City  of  Mexico,  an  apparently  better  founded 


GUATAMOZm's    LAST    WILL.  439 

search  is  going  on.  It  is  well  known  that  when  Gua- 
tamozin  was  finally  defeated  by  the  Spaniards,  the  im- 
mense treasures  which  he  was  supposed  to  possess  could 
not  be  found;  and  that  the  pious  conquerors  roasted 
him  at  a  tree  still  standing  at  Chapultepec,  to  make 
him  reveal  their  place  of  concealment. 

"  This  is  not  a  bed  of  roses,'1  is  said  to  have  been  his 
quiet  remark  as  they  grilled  him,  but  he  never  let  up, 
and  the  secret — if  there  was  any — died  with  him. 
Now,  they  have  what  purports  to  be  the  will  of  Gua- 
tamozin,  in  the  Aztec  language,  setting  forth  the  secret 
of  the  deposit,  alleging  that  it  was  in  the  ground  near 
where  the  last  fight  took  place  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
City  of  Mexico,  and  providing  that  his  descendants 
should  never  reveal  it  nor  search  for  the  treasure  until 
the  power  of  the  Spanish  should  be  broken,  and  even 
then,  that  no  Spaniard  should  ever  be  allowed  to  profit 
by  it.  Now,  when  the  power  of  Spain  on  the  conti- 
nent of  America  is  broken,  and  the  Church  she  founded 
in  Mexico,  in  blood  and  outrage,  has  lost,  or  is  fast 
losing  its  hold  on  the  people,  a  descendant  of  Guata- 
mozin  produces  the  will,  and  directs  the  search  for  the 
long  buried  treasure.  I  found  that  Col.  Enrique  Mejia 
and  other  ripe  scholars  in  whose  judgment  I  would 
implicitly  rely,  believed  the  will  to  be  genuine,  and  that 
the  treasure  was  really  buried  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
spot  where  the  search  is  now  being  made,  though  they 
think  the  chances  of  the  search  being  successful,  after 
the  lapse  of  centuries  and  the  changes  which  have  taken 
place  in  the  locality,  as  extremely  problematical,  to  say 
the  least,  and  they  do  not  take  stock  in  the  enterprise. 

We  had  heard  much  of  the  religious  bigotry  and  fa- 
natical hatred  of  foreigners — especially  Americans — man- 


440  PROTESTANTISM    IN   PUEBLA. 

ifested  by  the  Pueblanos,  before  our  arrival,  and  the  late 
religious  riot  had  led  us  to  believe  many  of  the  state- 
ments to  be  true.  But  to  whatever  extent  this  feeling 
may  exist  among  the  lower  and  more  ignorant  class,  it 
was  never  manifested  by  word  or  deed,  toward  Mr. 
Seward  or  any  member  of  his  party.  We  were  lodged 
and  sumptuously  fed  during  our  stay,  in  the  "  OMspado" 
or  Palace  of  the  Bishop  of  Puebla,  and  nothing  could 
be  more  kind  and  respectful  than  the  demeanor  of  all 
classes  toward  Mr.  Seward  and  his  friends.  I  was  all 
over  the  city  by  day  and  night,  alone,  wearing  the  un- 
dress uniform  of  an  officer  of  the  American  National 
Guard,  which  left  no  chance  for  my  nationality  being 
mistaken,  and  always  met  the  most  kindly  treatment. 
I  was  informed  that  the  Government  had  given  orders 
to  General  Alatorre  and  Governor  Romero,  to  protect 
the  Protestant  congregation  in  Puebla  in  their  right  of 
public  worship  of  God  according  to  their  own  con- 
science, at  any  cost  and  under  any  circumstances,  and 
that  the  Catholic  clergy,  though  naturally  opposed  to 
the  innovation  on  their  customs,  exercised  through  more 
than  three  centuries  without  dispute,  were  heard  to 
rebuke,  strongly,  any  disposition  to  resort  to  force  and 
violence  in  opposing  the  spread  of  the — as  they  must 
of  course  regard  them — heretical  doctrines  and  practices. 
When  we  left,  all  was  quiet  in  Puebla,  and  unless  the 
Government  troops  meet  with  some  severe  reverse  in 
the  campaign  against  the  guerilla  bands  in  the  Sierra, 
the  Protestant  element  in  Puebla  is  not  likely  to  be 
again  disturbed,  or  in  any  way  maltreated,  unless  itself 
guilty  of  some  act  of  wholly  unjustifiable  imprudence. 


CHAPTER  XIX, 

FKOM  PUEBLA  TO   ORIZABA. 

TZTAVING  hurried  through  Puebla  as  rapidly  as 
possible,  giving  ourselves  but  half  the  time  we 
should  have  taken  earlier  in  the  trip  to  inspect  that 
old,  historic  city,  its  churches  and  its  ruins,  and  the  in- 
teresting country  surrounding  it,  we  left  on  the  23d  of 
December  for  Orizaba.  Mr.  Fitch  was  placed  under 
the  care  of  Col.  Geo.  M.  Green  as  a  military  and  moral 
precaution,  and  sent  off  in  advance  by  the  regular  dili- 
gence which  left  at  2  A.  M.,  and  the  rest  of  the  party, 
accompanied  by  Sefior  Bossero,  the  commissioner  sent 
out  to  Guadalajara  by  the  Mexican  Government  to  es- 
cort Mr.  Seward  through  the  entire  Eepublic,  left  at 
sunrise  in  a  special  coach.  Miss  Parkman,  daughter  of 
an  American  thirty-two  years  resident  in  Guanajuato 
and  married  to  a  Mexican  lady,  had  joined  the  party  at 
the  City  of  Mexico  to  go  home  with  Mr.  Seward,  to  re- 
main a  year  and  learn  the  English  language,  of  which 
she  was,  up  to  the  time  of  our  arrival,  entirely  ignorant. 

The  morning  air  was  chilly  and  raw  when  we  left 
Puebla,  and  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Manzanillo, 
we  saw  a  fog  hanging  over  the  landscape.  This  fog 
came  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  was,  we  were  told, 
the  effect  of  a  Norther  blowing  down  the  coast. 

After  a  time  it  lifted,  and  rolled  up  the  mountains 
in  thin  wreaths  of  snowy  vapor,  which  softened  the 


442  AMOZOC   AND   THE   IRON- WORKERS. 

ragged  outlines  of  the  great  volcanoes,  made  the  naked, 
brown,  lavatic  peak  of  Malinchi  appear  to  shoot  up- 
wards thousands  of  feet  higher  into  the  blue  heavens, 
and  as  it  took  on  the  hues  of  the  sea-shell  and  the  rain- 
bow, when  lighted  up  by  the  rising  sun,  crowned  with 
a  turban  of  glory  the  white  head  of  the  monarch  Ori- 
zaba. 

Our  first  halting  place  was  at  Amozoc,  an  old  Indian 
city,  now  principally  famous  for  the  skill  of  its  workers 
in  iron,  and  the  shrewd  impertinence  of  its  venders  of 
the  articles.  The  coach  had  not  fairly  come  to  a  stop, 
before  the  windows  were  blocked  by  peddlers  of  finger- 
rings,  spurs,  bridle-bits,  toy  flat-irons,  etc.,  etc.,  of  blue 
steel,  inlaid  with  silver  and  handsomely  engraved, 
which  they  thrust  in  our  faces,  and  offered  at  the  most 
fabulous  prices,  at  the  same  time  inviting  a  bid  of  any 
kind.  We  got  about  a  quart  of  toy  flat-irons,  rings 
marked  "  M.  L." — Mexico  Libre — or  Mexico  is  Free— 
etc.,  for  a  few  dollars,  and  then  a  youth  with  a  sinister 
countenance,  tossed  a  pair  of  Spanish  spurs — each  of 
which  would  weigh  fully  a  pound  avordupois — into  my 
lap,  and  insisted  on  my  purchasing  them. 

"  How  much  2" 

"  Nine  dollars,  Seuor,  and  they  are  very  cheap  !" 

"  I  will  give  you  three  dollars." 

"  Oh  no,  your  Excellency,  but  you  shall  have  them 
for  eight." 

"  Not  if  the  court  knows  herself;  I  will  give  you 
three." 

"  You  shall  have  the  spurs — and  the  silver  is  genu- 
ine, Senor — and  this  magnificent  bridle-bit  for  seven 
dollars?" 

"  Do  you  want  three  for  the  spurs  ?     I « don't  want 


BAEGALNING    FOE   SPUES.  443 

the  bit  as  a  gift ;  it  is  a  thousand  years  out  of  date, 
and  must  have  been  stolen  by  your  ancestors  from  Her- 
nando  Cgrtez  or  Alvarado  !" 

"  Five  dollars,  Senor  ?" 

"  No !" 

"  Four  ?" 

"No!" 

"  Well,  here  take  them  !"  and  I  did  take  them,  and 
found  next  day  that  he  had  offered  them  to  Col.  Green 
a  few  hours  previous  for  two  dollars,  and  asked  him 
what  he  would  give — indicating  a  willingness  to  ac- 
commodate by  going  lower.  I  shall  never  wear  those 
spurs  with  any  degree  of  satisfaction. 

The  iron  is  produced  near  the  railway,  some  twenty 
miles  from  Puebla,  and  is  converted  into  steel  and 
wrought  up  with  much  skill  by  the  native  citizens, 
with  the  very  rudest  appliances. 

The  people  in  the  vicinity  have  a  reputation  for  eccen- 
tricity. When  the  first  telegraph  line  was  erected 
along  the  road  from  Orizaba  to  Puebla,  miles  of  the 
wire  disappeared  from  the  poles  in  the  vicinity  of  Ama- 
zoc  every  night,  in  the  most  mysterious  manner.  At 
length  the  company  offered  to  compromise  with  the  iron- 
workers by  giving  them,  as  a  free  present,  a  given 
quantity  of  wire  annually,  provided  they  would  ensure 
the  line  remaining  intact.  The  proposition  was  rejected 
with  scorn,  as  an  insinuation  of  a  doubt  upon  the  hon- 
esty and  fair  fame  of  the  iron- workers ;  but  the  wire 
continued  to  go  off,  until  the  company  adopted  a  diff- 
erent material  which  could  not  be  made  useful  by  the 
skillful  workers  in  blue  steel  and  silver,  and  now  ev- 
erything is  lovely,  and  the  line  hangs  high  and  undis- 
turbed. 


444  A    MEXICAN   BRIDGE   BUILDEK. 

When  the~railway  company,  at  the  collapse  of  the 
Empire,  found  it  necessary  to  suspend  work  a  few 
months,  more  or  less,  on  account  of  the  condition  of  the 
country,  it  is  said  that  they  sent  an  English  sub-super- 
intendent down  to  Amozoc,  to  take  charge  of  the 
material  on  hand  in  that  vicinity.  With  perfectly  An- 
glican  simplicity,  he  housed  all  the  iron  rails,  and  left 
the  chairs  and  spikes  out-of-doors.  It  is  hardly  nec- 
essary to  say  that  on  the  resumption  of  work  not  a 
chair  or  spike  was  to  be  found,  and  I  may  add  that  the 
price  of  steel  goods  manufactured  at  Amozoc  had  mean 
time  fallen  to  exactly  the  cost  of  the  workmanship,  no 
charge  for  material  being  reckoned  by  the  enterprising 
Amozocians  in  their  estimates  of  the  expenses  of  carry- 
ing on  the  business. 

The  leaving  of  the  chairs  and  spikes  out  of  doors 
was  of  course  an  absurdity,  but  that  it  was  quite  nec- 
essary to  house  the  rails  is  demonstrated  by  the  fact 
that  they  used  to  disappear  every  night,  when  left  out 
of  doors  and  not  fastened  down.  One  day  an  officer 
of  the  company  was  riding  some  twelve  miles  distant 
from  the  track,  when  he  saw  a  countryman  driving  an 
ox  team,  with  one  of  the  full  length  T  rails,  weighing 
sixty  pounds  to  the  foot,  dragging  on  the  ground  behind 
them.  Demanding  to  know  what  he  was  doing  with 
the  rail  the  fellow  replied,  with  a  shrug  of  the  should- 
ers : 

"  Oh,  just  going  to  build  apuntacita"  (i.  e.,  a  little 
bridge.) 

"But  that  rail  belongs  to  the  railway  company; 
don't  you  know  that  ?" 

"  Oh,  no,  Senor,  I  did  not  know  who  it  belonged  to. 
Do  you  represent  the  company  ?" 


AIST    AZTEC    TOWER    AKD    SUN-DIAL.  445 

"  Of  course  I  do,  and  I  want  that  rail  ?" 

"  Very  well ;  if  the  rail  belongs  to  you,  I  don't  want 
it.  Take  it  and  welcome,  Senor.  Buenos  ta/rde 
Senor !"  and  coolly  unhitching  the  oxen  from  the  rail, 
he  politely  lifted  his  hat  and  walked  off  with  his  ani- 
mals, leaving  the  rail  lying  there,  twelve  miles  from 
the  track,  for  the  owners  to  get  it  back  as  best  they 
could;  it  did  not  appear  to  worry  him  a  bit. 

There  are  no  silver  mines  in  the  vicinity,  but  the  dil- 
igences were  formerly  stopped  pretty  regularly,  and  the 
supply  of  silver  for  ornamenting  the  steel  work,  appears 
to  be  still  sufficient  to  meet  the  demand  of  the  trade. 

His  Excellency,  Governor  Eomero,  and  staff,  accom- 
panied us  in  his  private  coach  from  Puebla  as  far  as 
Tepeaca,  an  old  Aztec  city  nine  leagues  from  Puebla. 
Here  we  stopped  for  breakfast,  and  parted  with  the 
Governor  and  his  aids  with  mutual  expressions  of  re- 
gret. The  Governor  had  done  all  that  any  man  could 
possibly  do,  to  show  Mr.  Seward  attention  and  respect, 
and  made  the  stay  of  the  party  in  the  State  of  Puebla 
a  pleasant  one,  and  he  will  long  be  remembered  with 
gratitude. 

Tepeaca  has  a  history,  if  we  had  had  time  to  stop 
and  look  it  up.  We  breakfasted  in  a  fonda  opposite 
the  grand  plaza.  In  this  plaza,  in  front  of  the  church, 
stands  a  tall,  square  tower  of  brick  or  adobe,  painted 
white,  with  a  red  tile  roof,  arched  port-hole-like  open- 
ings near  the  top,  and  a  sun-dial  painted  on  the  side 
perpendicularly,  according  to  the  Aztec  custom,  instead 
of  horizontally  as  ours  used  to  be.  On  the  dial  is  an 
inscription  to  this  effect :  "  Here  I  am,  and  there  is  no 
mistake  about  me."  This  was  a  fortress  of  the  Aztecs, 
and  being  very  curious,  the  Spaniards  did  not  destroy 


446  DARING    FEAT   OF   A   GUERRILLA. 

it,  but  preserved  it  as  it  now  stands  in  perfection; 
thank  them  for  so  much  at  any  rate !  It  was  doubt- 
less a  good  thing  in  the  days  of  bows  and  arrows,  but 
a  common  six-pounder  field-piece  would  have  knocked 
it  into  a  cocked  hat  in  no  time. 

The  Spaniards,  in  advancing  up  into  the  country 
from  Vera  Cruz,  had  a  mare  which  they  valued  highly. 
Near  Tepeaca  the  mare  got  loose,  and  ran  away  to  the 
Aztec  camp.  The .  Indians  determined  to  catch  her 
alive,  regarding  her  as  the  next  thing  to  the  God  of  the 
Spaniards,  and  one  of  the  greatest  contributors  to  their 
success.  So  they  chased  her  on  foot  until  many  of 
them — so  tradition  says — dropped  down  dead  from 
heat  and  fatigue,  but  their  efforts  were  unavailing,  for 
the  Spaniards  corralled  her  after  all. 

In  the  late  war  between  France  and  Mexico,  the 
noted  guerrilla  chieftain,  General  Caravajal — who  ac- 
companied us  from  Mexico  to  Puebla,  Tlaxcala  and 
Cholula — fought  many  minor  battles  along  the  road 
with  the  invaders,  and  always  cleaned  out  his  oppo- 
nents. He  is  the  very  impersonation  of  the  quick, 
adroit,  brave,  and  withal  patriotic  guerrilla  commander, 
and  for  such  warfare  has  probably  no  equal  on  the  con- 
tinent. When  the  French  were  encamped  at  Tepeaca, 
he  made  a  bet  of  five  hundred  dollars  a  side  with  Ro- 
jas,  that  he  would  with  his  small  band  of  guerrillas, 
cut  his  way  into  the  plaza  and  kill  some  of  the  French, 
before  he  (Rojas)  could  do  the  same  with  his  force. 
The  first  party  to  kill  a  Frenchman  in  the  plaza  was  to 
take  the  money.  General  Caravajal  actually  rode  at 
full  gallop  directly  into  the  plaza  at  day-break,  killed 
several  French  officers  in  front  of  the  commander's 
quarters,  and  rode  off  again  unscathed,  winning  the 


THE  HOME  OF  THE  PALM  AND  MAGUEY.      447 

money.  He  looks  like  a  good,  plain,  honest  American 
farmer  of  forty-five  years  of  age,  and  is  the  last  man  in 
the  world  you  would  take  for  the  hero  of  so  many  dar- 
ing and  recklessly  brave  exploits. 

We  were  now  in  the  maguey  or  aloe  district  of  Mex- 
ico. This  plant  does  not  thrive  well  in  the  tierre  ca- 
liente,  but  at  the  elevation  of  six  to  ten  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  in  this  latitude  is  seen  in  its  greatest 
perfection.  Its  home  is  the  great  valley  and  central 
plains  of  Mexico,  though  it  is  found  as  far  north  as 
Arizona.  The  whole  country  is  covered  with  it 
in  this  vicinity.  The  houses  are  thatched  with  its 
leaves;  ropes,  matting,  and  cloth  of  a  coarse  texture 
are  made  from  it;  in  fact,  the  common  people  are 
born,  live,  and  get  drunk  and  die  on  it  in  some  form. 
Along  here  it  is  less  used  for  making  pulque  than  be- 
tween Mexico  and  Puebla,  and  "we  saw  thousands  en 
thousands  of  plants  with  the  center  or  flower  stalk 
shooting  up  ready  to  burst  into  blossom.  Each  stalk 
is  about  the  size  of  a  common  telegraph  pole — per- 
haps three  or  four  feet  less  in  average  height — and  re- 
sembles— before  the  blossoms,  have  put  forth — a  gigan- 
tic asparagus  shoot,  in  color  and  form. 

The  palm,  of  the  stumpy,  worthless  variety  known  in 
Texas  and  Arizona  as  the  "  Spanish  bayonet,"  is  found 
here,  covering  all  the  hill-sides,  and  scattered  along  the 
roads.  The  mountains  begin  to  lose  their  appearance 
of  utter  barrenness,  and  are  clothed  in  dense  chaparal 
or  fair-sized  juniper,  cedar,  oak,  pine,  and  cypress  trees ; 
we  were  coming  within  the  influence  of  the  moist  air 

O 

of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

John  Butler,  Mr.  Seward's  dark  servant,  never  had 
any  patience  with  the  Mexican  servants  with  whom 


448 


A    COLORED    GENTLEMAN   IN   MEXICO. 


lie  came  in  contact,  and  each  day's  experience  in  the 
country  confirmed  his  prejudices  and  deepened  his  con- 
viction s .     Asa 
rule  he    insisted 
that    they    were 
bound  to  under- 
stand    English, 
and    did    under- 
stand  it  in  spite 
of  all  their  pro- 
testations. "  Here 
blast  you,  set  this 
trunk  right  down 
there  J  tell  you,  and  I  want 
you   to   understand  it !"   he 
would   exclaim.     The    s  e  r  • 
vants  would  of  course    com- 
prehend  from  his    gestures 
what    he    desired    to    have 

done,  and  comply  with  his 
command ;  whereupon  he  would  turn  to  some  of  the 
party  and  remark  triumphantly : 

"  There,  cuss  their  yellow  hides,  didn't  I  telUyou  they 
could  understand  English  if  they  only  had  a  mind  to  ?" 

But  occasionally  he  would  get  hold  of  a  customer 
who  would  persist  in  not  understanding  him,  and  after 
a  little  trifling  his  Christian  meekness  would  give  way, 
and  his  wrath  flnd  vent  in  words,  forcible  and  to  the 
point.  At  a  little  village  where  we  stopped  to-  lunch, 
Mr.  Seward  told  him  to  go  and  buy  a  hundred  cigars 
for  the  guard.  He  started  off  and  soon  after,  hearing 
high  words  going  on  in  a  wayside  shop,  I  looked  in  to 
learn  the  cause  of  the  row. 


TILE   NKKDLE   PALM. 


THE  EURAL  GUARD  OF  PUEBLA.          449 

"  Here  Colonel,  come  in  here  please,  and  tell  this 
stupid  thing  that  I  want  'em  all  /"  he  exclaimed  as  he 
caught  sight  of  me. 

"  Todos  Sen  or  ?  Todos  ? "  replied  the  woman  at  the 
counter,  with  an  expression  of  anxiety  and  doubt  on  her 
face,  as  she  turned  appealingly  to  me. 

"  No,  cuss  you  no  \  I  said  all,  didn't  I  ?  Don't  try 
to  run  no  todos  on  me ;  I  want  'em  all  /"  shouted  John, 
seizing  the  box  and  pulling  it  from  her  reluctant  hand. 
"  Blast  her,  she  is  trying  to  retail  them  to  me  by  the 
todos,  when  I  told  her  more  than  forty  times  over, 
that  I  wanted  'em  all  /" 

I  explained  to  the  irate  descendant  of  Ham,  that  to- 
dos and  all,  were  synonymous  terms  in  the  two  lan- 
guages. 

"  Then  why  did'nt  she  say  so  at  once,  and  not  keep 
me  here  fooling  all  day  ?"  was  his  emphatic  rejoinder 
as  he  threw  down  the  two  dollars  demanded  and  left  the 
shop,  shaking  his  head  wrathfully,  and  evidently  more 
disgusted  with  the  country  and  everything  •  in  it  than 
ever  before. 

We  staid  over  night  at  Palmar,  an  old  Indian  town 
twenty  leagues  from  Puebla,  and  lodged  at  a  fonda. 
There  is  nothing  at  Palmar  worth  describing — at  least 
I  saw  nothing. 

The  splendidly  uniformed  commander  of  the  Rural 
Guard  of  Puebla,  mounted  on  a  fleet  little  bay  horse, 
all  life  and  fire,  with  saddle,  bridle,  stirrups,  holsters, 
etc.,  etc.,  one  mass  of  beautifully  wrought  silver,  ac- 
companied us  from  Puebla  to  Orizaba.  At  intervals 
of  about  twenty  miles,  the  guard  of  twenty-five  to  fifty 
men,  all  similarly  mounted  and  presenting  a  magnifi- 
cent appearance  as  they  dashed  along  at  full  speed  by 
29 


450  A   CHANGE   OF   SCENE. 

the  side  of  the  coach,  were  changed ;  but  this  officer 
rode  with  us  all  the  way,  his  fiery,  little  steed  never 
flagging  or  halting  to  rest  for  a  moment  from  morning 
to  night.  The  road  was  fearfully  dusty,  and  the  coach 
mules,  coach-wheels,  and  the  horses  of  the  guard,  kept 
us  in  such  a  cloud  of  the  sacred  soil  all  the  way,  that 
no  single  individual  was  recognizable  after  we  had  gone 
a  mile  or  two. 

I  wish  I  could  present  my  readers  with  a  picture  of 
that  peculiar  and  characteristic  cortege,  as  we*  swept 
along  the  road  from  Puebla  to  Orizaba.  Every  color 
of  the  rainbow  flashed  in  the  costumes  of  the  guard  or 
the  trappings  of  the  horses.  The  men  were  wrapped 
to  the  eyes  in  scarfs  and  serapes  to  guard  their  faces 
and  throats  from  the — to  them — extreme  cold,  though 
we  found  it  too  warm  to  wear  overcoats  when  sitting 
still,  in  the  open  coach.  All  the  natives  of  this  country 
thus  protect  themselves  against  the  air,  even  in  the 
warmest  seasons,  and  the  women  you  meet  on  the  road 
have  their  faces,  in  most  cases,  all  covered  except  the 
eyes,  with  their  blue  or  black  rebosas. 

We  left  Palmar  at  8  A.  M.,  December  24th,  for  Ori- 
zaba, having  only  sixteen  Spanish  leagues  to  go.  For 
the  first  six  leagues  the  country  was  dusty,  dry  as  the 
Californias  during  the  dry  season,  and  uninteresting- 
Then  all  in  an  instant  the  scene  changed  as  if  by  magic. 
At  a  sharp  turn  in  the  road  we  came  upon  the  brink  of 
a  great  canon,  like  that  of  the  American  River  above 
Colfax  on  the  Central  Pacific  Railway  in  California. 
The  sides  of  the  canon  were  wooded  and  green,  and 
very  precipitous.  Down  at  the  bottom  of  this  canon, 
from  twelve  hundred  to  eighteen  hundred  feet  below 
us,  we  could  see  many  great  cotton-laden  wagons  drawn 
by  twenty  to  thirty  mules  each,  coming  up  from  Vera 


THE    CUMBRES WONDERFUL    SCENERY.  451 

Cruz,  the  weary  animals  straining  every  nerve  to  pull 
the  heavy  loads  up  the  zigzag  road  which  winds  like  a 
serpent  up  the  almost  perpendicular  face  of  the  moun- 
tain. 

We  stood  at  last,  at  the  dividing  line  between  the 
great  Central  Plateau  or  elevated  Table  Land  of  Mex- 
ico, and  the  Tierra  Caliente  of  the  Gulf  coast.  The 
gay  cavalcade  of  horsemen  who  formed  our  escort, 
dashed  down  the  steep  declivity  at  a  gallop,  and  the 
coach,  with  breaks  hard  set,  went  down  with  a  speed 
like  that  of  a  railway  train,  turning  the  sharp  angles 
of  the  road  without  an  instant's  slackening  up,  and 
rocking  and  swaying  like  a  ship  in  a  storm  until  we 
were  at  the  bottom.  We  congratulated  ourselves  on  the 
experience,  and  all  agreed  that  we  had  never  seen  any- 
thing finer,  or  enjoyed  a  more  exhilarating  ride  in  our 
lives. 

A  few  minute's  pause  to  rest  our  panting  animals, 
and  then  we  ascended  a  little  hill,  and  instead  of  find- 
ing ourselves  in  an  open  plain  as  we  had  anticipated, 
looked  down  on  another  and  greater  canon,  which  by 
its  size  made  the  first  seem  a  mere  bagatelle,  dwarfed 
the  great  Barranca  of  Beltran  by  comparison,  and 
would  even  challenge  and  win  admiration,  side  by  side 
with  the  Great  Yosemite,  the  wonder  of  the  world  in 
our  day  and  generation. 

Slope  back  the  walls  of  rock  which  form  the  sides. 
of  the  Yosemite,  so  as  to  make  them  a  little  less  than- 
perpendicular,  clothe  them  with  low,  green  chaparral 
to  hide  the  blue-grey  stone,  plant  a  little  village  with 
an  old  white  church  like  that  in  the  "  Heart  of  the 
Andes,"  in  the  center  of  the  narrow,  green  valley 
where  Hutchings'  house  stands,  and  look  down  on  the 
picture  from  Inspiration  Point,  and  you  have  the  greater 


452  DESCENT    INTO    THE    TIEREA    CALIENTE. 

of  Las  Oumbres,  as  we  looked  down  into  it  on  that 
bright,  suniiy  afternoon  of  the  24th  of  December,  1869. 
By  Heaven  !  it  was  a  sight  worth  coming  all  these 
thousands  of  miles  by  sea  and  land,  to  look  upon ! 

Away  we  went  again,  down,  down,  down,  as  the  eagle 
fixes  his  wings  and  glides  swiftly  from  his  airy  height 
in  the  mountains  into  the  valley  below.  In  half  an  hour 
more  all  had  changed  around  us,  and  we  stood  again 
amid  the  scenes  and  surrounded  by  the  rankly  luxuri- 
ant vegetation  of  the  tropics.  We  had  descended  six 
thousand  feet  within  ten  miles,  and  the  land  of  the 
aloe  and  maize  was  behind  us.  Around  us  was  the 
banana,  the  orange,  sugar-cane  and  coffee,  and  the  thou- 
sand glorious  flowers  of  the  tropics,  high  mountains— 
green-clad  and  glorious — on  either  hand,  and  before  us, 
Orizaba  in  all  his  unspeakable  majesty. 

Through  the  green  valley,  skirted  with  Indian  vil- 
lages of  low  cone-thatched  and  open-sided  huts,  we  drove 
at  full  speed  for  an  hour,  and  then  halted  at  a  village 
a  league  only  from  the  quaint  old  city  of  Orizaba, 
where  we  found  carriages  in  waiting,  and  the  authorities 
standing  ready  to  receive  Mr.  Seward  and  escort  him 
to  our  lodgings  in  the  town,  as  the  guest  of  the  State 
of  Vera  Cruz  within  whose  boundaries  we  had  just  en- 
tered. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

OKIZABA— THE  GKEAT  CONDUCTA. 

BIZ  ABA  is  one  of  the  most  curious  old  towns 
which  we  visited  in  Mexico.  It  more  resembles 
Colinia  in  its  surroundings  than  any  other,  but  the 
growth  of  tropical  vegetation  in  the  immediate  vicinity, 
is  not  to  be  compared  with  that  which  gives  such  an 
air  of  oriental  luxuriance  and  magnificence  to  the  City 
of  the  Sun,  out  by  the  Western  Ocean,  through  which 
we  made  our  entrance  into  Mexico.  The  heavy,  flat  or 
arched  stone  roofs  of  the  central  table  lands  and  ele- 
vated plains  of  Mexico,  disappear  at  the  Cumbres, 
and  at  Orizaba  we  saw  only  low-walled  buildings,  for 
the  most  part  but  one  story  in  height,  with  wide  pro- 
jecting eaves,  and  pitching  roofs  covered  with  the 
same  old  fashioned  red  tiles  which  the  Spaniards  placed 
there  three  hundred  and  forty  years  ago. 

Mr.  Seward's  party  were  quartered  in  the  most  com- 
fortable manner,  in  one  of  the  few  two-story  houses  in 
the  city,  which  was  owned  by  a  young  physician,  Dr. 
Talivera,  and  from  our  windows  we  looked  down  upon 
the  streets  of  the  greater  portion  of  the  town.  The 
streets  are  wide,  and  tolerably  straight,  and  paved  with 
lava.  The  gutters  are  in  the  middle  of  the  street,  and 
the  sidewalks  are  mere  banquettes,  about  three  feet — 
rarely  four  feet — in  width,  hardly  wide  enough  for  two 
persons  to  walk  abreast.  Grass  fresh  and  green — 


454  GRASS-GROWN    STREETS. 

though  not  tall  I  must  admit — grows,  more  or  less,  in 
all  the  streets,  and  water-cresses  are  found  along  the 
margins  of  the  little  streams  of  fresh  water  which  flow 
through  the  gutters  in  the  center. 

Off  the  main  street,  through  which  the  diligencia 
passes  twice  or  thrice  a  day,  plying  between  the  rail- 
way  station  at  Paso  del  Macho,  the  present  western  ter< 
minus  of  the  Eastern  section,  and  Puebla,  the  present 
eastern  terminus  of  the  Western  section  which  comes 
down  from  Mexico,  one  hardly  ever  sees  a  carnage  of 
any  kind,  unless  it  be  a  heavy  mule  wagon,  loaded  with 
cotton,  or  a  wooden- wheeled  ox-cart  lumbering  slowly 
and  painfully  along.  We  found  one  street  which  ap- 
peared to  be  considerably  traveled,  so  much  so  that  Mr. 
Frederick  Seward  started  off  in  an  enthusiastic  manner, 
to  see  where  it  led  to,  and  ascertain  the  cause  of  its  un- 
usually lively  character:  it  led  to  the  cemetery,  and 
nowhere  else,  as  I  am  an  honest  and  conscientious 
man. 

The  prospect  of  the  railway  being  finished  from  Vera 
Cruz  to  Orizaba — the  name  of  the  city  is  always  pro- 
nounced as  if  spelled  Orizava,  (i.  e.  O-re-zah-vah)  with 
the  accent  on  the  last  syllable  but  one — during  the 
Empire,  infused  a  little  life  into  the  town,  and  a  very 
good  sized  "  Hotel  de  la  Diligencias "  was  erected  and 
opened ;  but  the  work  was  suspended  when  the  Em- 
pire went  down,  and  for  a  long  time  all  life  appeared 
to  be  dying  out.  The  work  has  been  resumed  with 
some  energy,  and  the  grading  of  the  sixteen  leagues 
between  Orizaba  and  Paso  del  Macho,  and  up  the 
mountain  side  around  the  Cumbres  to  the  great  plain 
above  on  which  Puebla  is  situated,  was  so  well  ad- 
vanced as  to  ensure  its  completion  at  an  early  day,  and 


THE   INDIAN   PACKERS   AGAIN.  455 

the  people  were  again-  looking  forward  with  hope  to 
the  future.  Nevertheless,  we  found  the  town  as  quiet 
as  a  well-regulated  cemetery,  and  saw  no  sign  of  life, 
such  as  would  be  found  in  an  American  city. 

The  mists  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  come  up  here  al- 
most daily,  and  it  rains,  more  or  less,  nearly  every  week 
in  the  year.  The  atmosphere  is  of  course  very  damp, 
and  fevers  are  quite  prevalent  and  severe. 

Most  of  the  freight  between  the  end  of  the  two  sec- 
tions of  the  railway,  is  packed  through  the  Oumbres, 
and  over  the  dusty  plains  to  Puebla,  or  vice  versa,  upon 
mule  backs ;  but  all  the  vegetables,  charcoal,  country 
produce,  earthenware,  etc.,  etc.,  is  still  packed  into  this, 
as  other  towns,  on  the  backs  of  stalwart  male  and  female 
Indians. 

It  is  wonderful  how  much  these  Indians  will  carry 
on  their  backs  at  a  dog-trot,  and  how  cheaply  they  will 
carry  it.  If  they  have  to  transport  a  given  amount  of 
freight  for  twenty  miles,  even  right  alongside  the  rail- 
way all  the  way,  they  never  think  of  putting  it  upon 
the  cars,  but  divide  it  up  into  three  or  four  hundred 
pound  packages,  get  it  upon  their  backs,  and  go  off  at 
a  pace  equal  to  the  average  speed  of  a  fast- walking 
horse. 

If  -they  start  for  a  town,  with  a  load  of  fruit  or 
vegetables  to  be  sold  in  the  market,  they  will  not  dis- 
pose of  it  on  the  way,  even  if  offered  double  the  price 
at  which  they  propose  to  sell  it  on  the  plaza.  Like  the 
negro,  who  when  fishing  for  catfish,  was  seen  to  catch 
a  fine,  large  pickerel,  deliberately  take  him  off  the  hook, 
and  throw  him  out  into  the  stream  as  far  as  his  strength 
would  enable  him  to  hurl  him,  and  who,  in  answer  to 
an  inquiry  as  to  his  reason  for  so  doing,  replied : 


456  TAKING    IN   BALLAST. 

"  I'se  fishin'  for  catfish  I  is,  an'  when  I  fishes  for  cats 
I  wants  cats,  an'  dont  want  no  pickerel  to  come  foolin' 
aroun'  my  hook  !  "  they  will  do  just  what  they  started 
out  for,  or  die  on  the  way.  They  are  in  no  hurry  to 
get  back,  any  way ;  and  the  scene  in  the  plaza  varies, 
not  unpleasantly  for  them,  the  v  dull  monotony  of  the 
daily  round  of  their  quiet,  uneventful  lives. 

Jokes  are  played  off  by  travelers,  on  the  habits  and 
customs  of  all  people,  and  all  countries.  I  had  often 
heard  an  assertion  made  in  regard  to  these  Indian  pack- 
ers returning  from  market,  which  I  regarded  as  one  of 
these  traveler's  jokes ;  but  an  American  citizen,  who 
has  been  engaged  in  Mexico  as  a  railway  builder,  and 
has  brought  all  the  energies  of  a  giant  mind  to  bear 
upon  the  subject,  told  me  at  Orizaba  that  it  is  an  abso- 
lute fact,  that  they  are  so  accustomed  to  carrying  heavy 
loads,  that  the  moment  the  weight  is  off  their  shoulders 
they  lose  their  traction,  so  to  speak,  cannot  get  a  good 
hold  upon  the  ground  with  their  toes,  and  are  as  thor- 
oughly "  at  sea,"  as  a  sailor  on  horseback.  If  they  can- 
not find  anything  in  the  city  to  pack  back  to  their 
homes,  they  will  put  a  few  chunks  of  lava,  or  boulders 
into  their  baskets,  to  ballast  them  and  give  them  a  trac- 
tion, and  start  off,  dissatisfied,  but  proudly  conscious  of 
having  done  the  best  that  could  be  done  under  the  dis- 
advantageous circumstances  of  the  case.  A  less  specu- 
lative and  more  matter-of-fact  people  I  never  saw  in  my 
life. 

There  is  a  fine,  large  cotton  mill  with  two  thousand 
spindles,  and  a  large  paper  mill  with  American  ma- 
chinery— brought  out  and  erected  by  Mr.  Richard  G. 
Ashby,  from  Massachusetts — located  near  the  city. 
The  water-power  is  abundant,  and  labor  cheap,  but  the 


BATTLE-SCABBED    CHUBCHES. 

high  price  of  raw  cotton,  the  depressed  state  of  trade, 
and  an  overstocked  market,  render  all  hope  of  profit 
from  the  working  of  the  cotton  factory  out  of  the  ques- 
tion, at  present.  The  cotton  mill  was  not  running,  but 
it  was  proposed  to  start  it  up  again  as  an  experiment, 
soon,  and  run  it  for  a  short  time  at  least.  The  paper 
mill  is  kept  running  at  a  moderate  profit. 

The  city  stands  in  a  narrow,  but  beautiful  and  very 
fertile  valley,  with  towering,  green,  forest-clad  moun- 
tains all  around,  and  Orizaba,  snow-crowned  and  glori- 
ous, looks  down  upon  it.  There  may  be  eighteen  thou- 
sand to  twenty  thousand  people  in  the  city,  all  told,  of 
whom  a  large  number  are  engaged  in  trade  or  in  wait- 
ing for  trade  to  come  to  them ;  I  saw  plenty  of  shops 
and  stores,  but  few  buyers  for  the  wares  exposed. 

On  the  hill  above  the  city,  the  French  and  Mexicans 
had  a  fight  by  night,  the  latter  being  surprised,  panic- 
stricken,  and  routed,  almost  in  a  moment ;  they  did 
better  later  in  the  war.  My  window  faced  a  fine  old 
church,  in  the  front  wall  of  which  I  counted  a  dozen 
cannon  balls,  and  the  tower  appeared  to  have  been  oc- 
cupied by  sharp-shooters  who  were  receiving  like  atten- 
tions from  the  opposing  party,  as  it  was  pitted  all  over 
with  marks  of  musket-balls,  as  if  it  had  the  small  pox. 
I  asked  a  man  who  stood  in  front  of  it,  when  and  how 
the  ball  and  bullet  marks  came  there.  He  said,  with  a 
grim  humor,  that  he  did  not  remember ;  it  was  el  costum- 
bre  del  pais,  (the  custom  of  the  country)  and  might  have 
been  done  at  any  time  within  the  last  fifty  years.  God 
grant  that  it  may  be  the  custom  of  the  country  no 
longer,  and  that  Orizaba  and  all  Mexico  may  have  seen 
the  last  of  such  scenes ! 

The  French  and  mercenary  troops  in  the  employ  of 


458     OUTRAGES  COMMITTED  BY  MAXIMILIANS  TROOPS. 

Maximilian,  committed  the  most  terrible  outrages  in  the 
State  of  Vera  Cruz  in  the  vicinity  of  Orizaba.  Whole 
villages  were  depopulated,  or  nearly  so,  and  peaceable, 
unoffending  citizens,  shot  down  in  cold  blood  from  mere 
devilishness,  by  the  Turcos  and  other  troops.  One 
Colonel  Dtipin  was  among  the-worst  of  the  leaders  who 
were  concerned  in  the  perpetration  of  these  wholesale 
massacres.  His  motto  was,  "  kill  every  man  who  wears 
leather  breeches."  As  four-fifths  of  the  common  people 
of  Mexico,  wear  leather  breeches,  when  they  wear  any 
at  all,  it  is  evident  that  the  proclamation  of  such  a 
policy  was  equivalent  to  inaugurating  a  reign  of  terror, 
and  a  war  of  utter  extermination. 

No  man  was  safe  who  attempted  to  pass  over  the 
roads  of  the  state,  unless  he  was  in  the  uniform  of  the 
imperial  army,  and  the  residents  of  the  most  retired 
hamlets  knew  not  at  what  moment  a  force  of  the  im- 
ported cut-throats  might  be  turned  loose  upon  them,  to 
kill,  ravish,  burn,  and  destroy  at  will.  In  the  city  of 
Orizaba,  women  were  brought  into  the  French  camp  and 
so  maltreated  by  the  Turcos  that  they  died  on  the  spot. 
Language  is  powerless  to  depict  the  horrors  of  that 
time.  Dupin  was,  with  all  his  infernal  brutality,  a  man 
of  courage,  and  repeatedly  cut  his  way  through  the 
enemy  when  surrounded  by  a  numerically  superior 
force ;  but  he  was  corralled  and  killed  at  last. 

A  similar  character,  a  French  colonel,  met  his  fate  in 
Durango  during  the  occupation  of  that  State.  His 
troops  caught  a  Mexican  officer,  and  by  his  direction, 
shot  him  down  in  front  of  his  own  door,  before  the 
eyes  of  his  young  and  lovely  wife.  To  his  astonish- 
ment the  bereaved  wife  made  no  outcry,  and  did  not 
reproach  him  for  the  murder.  A  few  days  later  he 


A  WOMAN'S  KEVENGE.  459 

met  the  beautiful  woman  at  a  party  and  was  intro- 
duced. She  took  the  matter  so  coolly  that  he  inquired 
how  it  could  be,  and  she  replied  that  her  husband  was 
a  brute ;  that  she  had  never  loved  nor  cared  for  him, 
and  that  she  was  glad  when  justice  overtook  him  at  last. 
An  intimacy  sprang  up  between  them,  and  after  some 
weeks  the  French  colonel  who  had  made  her  a  widow, 
obtained  her  reluctant  consent  to  visit  her  on  a  certain 
evening  at  her  own  apartments. 

The  meeting  was  tender  and  affectionate  on  both 
sides,  and  the  Frenchman  was  delighted  beyond  words. 
The  lady  urged  him  to  join  with  her  in  a  glass  of  wine, 
and  he,  nothing  loth,  consented.  After  he  had  drank 
she  stepped  out  of  the  room,  and  closing  the  heavy 
door  between  them,  locked  it  in  an  instant  and  then 
called  out  to  him : 

"  Colonel :  you  murdered  my  husband  before  my 
eyes  !  Your  time  has  come  now.  That  wine  was  pois- 
oned, and  in  five  minutes  you  will  be  a  dead  man !  I 
have  waited  long  for  this ;  how  do  you  like  it  ?" 

He  fell,  striving  vainly  to  escape  from  the  room,  and 
expired  in  horrible  agony.  But  her  words  had  been 
overheard  by  a  servant,  who  betrayed  her,  and  she  was 
condemned  to  death  for  the  murder.  She  went  to  her 
execution  with  a  smile  of  satisfaction  on  her  face,  and 
died  glorying  in  what  she  had  done. 

It  was  Christmas  Eve  when  we  entered  Orizaba,  and 
all  the  bells  were  ringing,  and  they  rung  nearly  all  the 
time  we  were  there.  I  rather  liked  it  after  I  got  used 
to  it,  but  it  was  a  little  rough  at  first.  The  Christinas 
festivities  are  kept  up  in  Orizaba  for  something  like  a 
month,  and  are  mainly  of  two  kinds.  Those  within 
the  churches  should  take  precedence  of  course. 


•400  CUKIOUS    CliKISTMAS    FESTIVITIES. 

A  part  of  our  party  attended  the  midnight  mass  on 
the  "  Buena  Noche,"  or  night  before  Christmas,  and 
saw  the  procession  of  the  wise  men  of  the  East  enter 
in  search  of  the  new-born  Christ,  while  kneeling  thou- 
sands looked  on  in  admiration,  and  repeated  the  pray- 
ers for  the  occasion.  The  niusic  was  fine,  the  singing 
good,  and  the  spectacle  altogether  a  beautiful  and  im- 
posing one. 

On  Sunday  I  went  to  the  cathedral  with  two  lady 
friends,  one  who  went  to  pray  with  a  simple,  child-like 
faith,  for  the  loved  parents,  sisters,  brothers  and  friends 
she  was  leaving  behind  her  in  the  home  of  her  youth  ; 
and  one  of  another  faith,  a  happy  young  w^ife,  who  went 
with  her,  only  to  watch  over  her  as  is  the  custom  of  the 
country.  I  stopped  at  the  door  while  they  went  in. 
My  married  friend  wore  a  fashionable  hat  upon  her 
head,  and  did  not  conform  to  the  usages  of  the  place, 
but  stood  erect,  by  the  wall.  These  facts  drew  the  at- 
tention of  some  of  the  worshipers,  and  one  of  them 
approaching  her  said  reproachfully,  but  not  exactly 
threateningly,  and  apparently  more  in  sorrow  than  in 
anger,  "  I  see  that  you  are  a  devil !"  whereupon,  she 
came  out  at  once,  and  waited  by  the  door,  until  the 
young  girl,  with  a  face  radiant  with  the  pleasure  which 
comes  from  the  consciousness  of  duty  well  performed, 
arose  from  her  knees  and  came  forth  to  meet  us. 

A  few  years  since  it  would  not  have  been  safe  for  a 
Protestant  woman,  with  her  head  covered  with  a  hat, 
to  have  been  seen  in  that  place,  but  now  the  case  is 
different.  There  is  some  trace  of  the  old  bigotry  to  be 
seen  among  the  lower  classes  still,  but  its  fire  is  fast 
dying  out  in  every  part  of  Mexico. 

On  Sunday  night   we,  went   to  the   theater,  where 


PLAYING    THE    DEVIL.  461 

a  grand  sacred  drama  was  being  performed  by  a 
native  company.  The  subject  was  the  birth  of  Our 
Savior,  and  the  scenes  were  laid  in  Heaven,  on  Earth, 
and  in  Hell.  The  play  opened  with  a  vivid  represen- 
tation of  the  commotion  in  the  latter  place,  on  the 
announcement  being  made  that  the  Savior  of  mankind 
was  about  to  be  born.  They  could  not  raise  the  devil 
in  better  shape  in  the  City  Hall  in  New  York,  and 
they  played  hell,  throughout,  with  a  very  strong  caste. 
The  scenes  on  earth  were  not  so  well  done,  and  Heaven 
did  not  strike  me  as  particularly  attractive.  It  was  all 
worth  seeing  once  in  a  life-time.  They  have  been  some 
twenty  years  building  a  new  theatre  here  opposite  the 
cathedral,  and  the  walls  and  roof  are  now  nearly  com- 
pleted. The  Dutch  custom  of  giving  presents  to  chil- 
dren and  friends  on  Christmas,  now  so  general  in  the 
United  States,  appears  to  be  but  little  observed  in  any 
part  of  Mexico,  i 

But  the  great  feature  of  the  Christmas  festivities  in 
Orizaba  is  the  gambling.  The  whole  plaza  in  front  of 
the  Cathedral  is  given  up  to  it,  and  all  who  desire  to 
open  business,  are  licensed  by  the  city.  Thitherward 
the  greatest  crowds  were  tending  on  Christmas  Eve, 
and  I  went  with  the  majority.  Along  one  entire  side 
of  the  plaza  is  a  row  of  booths  devoted  to  roulette, 
played  with  French  machines,  and,  apparently,  "  on  the 
square."  Crowds  of  all  ages,  colors,  and  conditions, 
were  around  the  tables,  and  business  appeared  to  be 
brisk.  The  banks  generally  had  a  goodly  sum  in 
silver  dollars,  halves,  quarters,  rials  and  medios  in  sight, 
but  no  gold.  The  bets  were  mostly  small — few  exceed- 
ing a  dollar — and  many  being  but  one  rial  or  a  medio 
each.  When  I  placed  a  dollar  on  the  red  as  an  experi- 


462  A    WHOLE   POPULATION    GAMBLING. 

ment,  won,  and  doubled  it  and  won  again,  the  crowd 
in  front  fell  back  respectfully,  and  I  had  the  game  all 
to  myself  until  I  was  a  dozen  dollars  ahead,  and  con- 
cluding the  game  too  uncertain,  bid  the  dealer  good- 
night, received  a  courteous  good-night  in  turn,  and 
moved  on.  The  poor  people  appear  to  play  right  on, 
as  long  as  they  have  a  dime  left,  and  of  course  the 
bank  comes  out  ahead  in  the  long  run. 

Farther  up  there  is  a  large  booth  in  which  quino  is 
played,  for  fancy  articles,  china  ware,  etc.,  etc.,  the  cost 
of  a  card  being  six  and  one-fourth  cents,  or  four  for 
twenty-five  cents.  I  did  not  know  the  game,  but  Col. 
Green  acted  as  my  padrino,  and  in  half  an  hour  I  was 
the  happy  possessor  of  seven  sets  of  fancy  china  cups 
and  saucers,  with  two  servers  to  match,  all  at  an  out- 
lay of  only  one  dollar  and  a  quarter.  I  regret  to  be 
compelled  to  add  that  I  offered  them  for  one  dollar — 
they  were  valued  at  seven — and  got  no  bidder  among 
my  companions ;  but  I  made  a  family  of  little  children 
happy  with  them,  and  felt  that  I  had  got  more  than  the 
worth  of  my  money,  after  all. 

Chuck-a-luck  games  ran  down  the  center  of  the 
plaza ;  monte,  faro,  etc.,  etc.,  were  scattered  about — in 
the  minority,  and  not  well  patronized — and  the  side 
opposite  the  roulette  booths,  is  covered  with  a  great  shed 
capable  of  seating  one  thousand  or  fifteen  hundred 
people,  which  is  devoted  exclusively  to  quino,  played 
for  money.  The  cards  or  tickets,  are  pasted  down 
upon  the  tables  and  must  number  at  least  one  thousand 
all  told.  Each  player  is  provided  with  a  handful  of 
corn  with  which  to  keep  the  game  as  the  numbers, 
drawn  ont  by  the  dealer  are  called,  and  as  last  as  one 
game  is  finished — it  takes  about  three  minutes — the 


STOICAL   WINNERS   AND   LOSEES.  463 

collectors  go  around  and  collect  in  the  rials  for  a  new 
one.  Each  game  costs  each  player  a  rial,  or  two  rials 
if  it  is  a  "  double  up,"  and  the  bank  gets  nothing  but 
a  percentage  on  the  amount  paid  in,  for  doing  the  busi- 
ness. This  place  is  filled  every  night,  and  much  of  the 
day,  by  people  of  all  classes ;  ladies  and  gentlemen  of 
the  best  families  making  little  parties  at  the  tables,  and 
enjoying  the  sport  as  heartily  as  anybody.  I  went 
there  with  a  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  played 
half  a  dozen  games  without  winning  one,  then  went  to 
a  roulette  table,  bet  twice  on  the  red  and  twice  on  the 
black,  won  all  four  bets,  and  quit  gambling.  It  is  not 
a  first-rate  business  to  follow,  even  in  Mexico,  where  it 
is  regarded,  generally,  as  quite  legitimate,  and  in  a 
very  different  light  from  that  in  which  we  see  it  in  the 
United  States. 

The  most  singular  thing  about  this  wholesale  gam- 
bling is  the  perfect  good  order  which  prevails  in  the 
crowd.  I  did  not  see  a  drunken  man,  nor  hear  an  angry 
word  or  an  oath  among  all  the  thousands  of  players. 
When  you  remember,  that  to  four-fifths  of  these  play- 
ers the  loss  of  a  single  dollar  is  of  greater  moment 
than  the  loss  of  one  hundred  to  the  average  American 
patron  of  the  gaming  table,  you  can  readily  understand 
what  an  event  it  is  in  their  lives.  Yet  courtesy  and  for- 
bearance are  displayed  upon  all  sides,  and  the  losers  never 
give  vent  to  audible  grumbling,  while  the  winners — 
what  there  are  of  them — pocket  their  gains  without  a 
sign  of  exultation.  Men  who  have  lost  their  last  media 
will  sit  down  by  your  side,  and  keep  the  account  of  the 
game  for  you,  condoling  with  you  when  you  lose,  and 
congratulating  you  when  you  win,  with  as  much  earnest- 
ness as  if  they  had  known  you  for  years. 


464  THE   FALLS    OF   THE    RINCON   GRANDE. 

Iii  many  cities  of  Mexico  gambling  is  now  prohib- 
ited, and,  as  with  us,  can  only  be  carried  on  by  stealth ; 
but  in  the  smaller  towns  throughout  the  country,  it  is 
not  exactly  the  vice  but  the  prevailing  misfortune  of 
the  people. 

Procuring  saddle-horses  in  Orizaba,  a  number  of  our 
party  with  several  gentlemen  from  the  city,  rode  out 
through  fine  fields  of  sugar-cane  and  orange  and  ban- 
ana plantations,  a  distance  of  three  miles  to  the  Falls 
of  the  Rincon  Grande.  The  Rio  de  Agua  Blanco,  a 
deep,  swift-running,  pure,  fresh-water  stream,  comes 
rushing,  like  the  Truckee  in  Nevada,  down  from  the 
mountains  on  the  eastward  of  the  city,  running  most  of 
the  distance  through  a  deep  and  very  picturesque 
canon. 

At  the  point  where  the  falls  commence,  the  stream 
divides,  one  half  running  on  down  the  canon,  and  the 
other  running  out  on  the  top  of  the  mesa,  or  table-rock 
of  lava,  which  forms  one  side  of  the  ravine,  then  turn- 
ing, and  falling  in  many  smaller  streams  over  the  pre- 
cipitous face  of  the  cliff  into  the  bottom  of  the  canon, 
and  in  a  cloud  of  spray,  mingling  with  the  waters  of 
the  main  stream  below. 

The*  perpendicular  fall,  itself,  cannot  exceed  fifty  feet 
at  this  point,  but  in  outline  it  is  a  miniature  Niagara, 
and  the  wealth  of  tropical  verdure  and  flowers  which 
surround  it,  as  the  gold  and  enamel  surround  the  dia- 
mond when  it  leaves  the  cunning  hand  of  the  jeweler, 
makes  it  a  gem  of  exquisite  beauty,  such  as  can  never 
be  seen  in  colder  climes  than  this.  The  trees  all  around 
are  covered  with  long,  grey  moss,  and  numberless  para- 
sites, all  of  which  bear  gorgeous-colored  flowers.  Some 
of  these  flowers  are  in  shape  like  an  ear  of  corn,  six  to 


A   TEOPICAL    PAKADISE.  465 

eight  inches  in  length,  of  the  most  brilliant  scarlet,  and 
set  in  a  cup  of  bright  green  leaves,  the  whole  looking 
more  like  skillful  wax-work,  than  the  work  of  nature. 

All  around  the  falls  the  foliage  and  shrubbery  is  so 
dense  as  to  preclude  walking,  except  in  narrow  foot- 
paths cut  for  the  purpose,  and  at  the  end  of  the  year, 
when  everything  in  the  far  North  is  buried  in  the 
snows  of  winter,  all  is  as  green,  and  red,  and  gay-col- 
ored and  beautiful  as  in  midsummer.  In  this  tropical 
paradise,  only  man  and  his  works  pass  away ;  the  glory 
of  Nature  is  eternal  and  unchanging :  "  In  Summer  and 
in  Winter  shall  it  be." 

The  rushing  waters  come  down  to  the  edge  of  the 
precipice  through  a  rank  growth  of  great  canes,  which 
swing  and  sway. with  the  pressure  of  the  current,  like 
willows  by  our  northern-  rivers  when  swept  by  the 
winds  of  summer.  Clinging  to  the  jagged  lava  rocks 
which  divide  the  stream  above  the  falls,  wherever  there 
is  a  handful  of  earth  to  nourish  them,  are  great  banana 
trees,  with  broad  leaves  like  the  banners  of  an  army  of 
giants,  waving  in  the  soft  breeze  of  the  South.  All  the 
face  of  the  rock  between  the  streams  of  falling  water 
is  covered  with  clinging  plants  and  flowering  shrubs, 
and  one  rock,  shaped  like  across,  which  projected  from 
the  center  out  into  the  falling  spray,  was  enwreathed 
with  flowers  like  an  artificial  garland,  as  if  they  had 
been  hung  there  by  some  dear  woman's  hand,  to  mark 
the  last  resting  place  of  the  loved  and  lost. 

We  went  down  by  a  winding  pathway  to  the  bottom- 
of  the  canon,  opposite  the  fall,  and  sitting  beneath  the 
broad-spreading  trees,  gazed  upon  the  scene  until  its 
beauty  was  indelibly  impressed  upon  our  minds,  to  be 
treasured  up  in  memory  forever ;  then  gathered  some- 
30 


466  VISIT   TO   A   SUGAR    RANCH. 

sweet  wild-flowers,  to  be  pressed  and  carried  away  as 
souvenirs  for  our  friends  in  the  North,  and  re-mounting 
our  horses,  galloped  towards  the  city. 

On  our  way  back  we  turned  off  from  our  road,  and 
visited  the  great  sugar  ranch  of  San  Antonio.  The  ha- 
cienda stands  in  a  narrow  canon  through  which  runs  a 
small  stream  of  pure  water,  and  is  surrounded  by  wide 
fields  of  luxuriant  and  rich-juiced  cane,  running  up  to 
the  suburbs  of  the  city.  The  sugar  works  are  run  by 
water-power,  and  though  the  crusher  is  of  American 
make,  all  the  other  machinery  and  appliances  are  of  the 
rudest  and  most  primitive  character. 

The  cane-juice  is  boiled  in  great,  open,  copper  kettles 
set  in  brick-work,  and  is  bailed  from  one  to  another  un- 
til the  last  is  reached,  by  naked-footed  men,  whose  skin 
appears  to  be  so  indurated  as  to  resist  the  action  of  the 
scalding  fluid  as  thoroughly  as  the  metal  itself.  The 
sugar,  in  its  crude  state,  is  placed  in  very  large  earthen 
moulds,  wide  at  the  top,  and  running  to  a  point  at  the 
bottom,  and  covered  with  a  peculiar  clay  made  into  a 
thin  paste,  which  filtering  through  it,  bleaches  the  mass 
to  a  pale  brown  color. 

The  sugar  is  sweet,  and  for  coffee,  fully  equal  to  the 
article  of  a  pale  yellow  hue  called  "coffee  sugar"  in  the 
United  States.  This  is  the  common  product  of  the  su- 
gar haciendas  of  Mexico,  and  the  process  is  that  in  gen- 
eral use  all  over  the  Kepublic  from  the  Pacific  to  the 
Atlantic.  With  railways,  a  good  and  liberal  system  of 
revenue  laws,  and  a  few  years  of  uninterrupted  peace, 
Mexico  could  supply  the  United  States,  Canada,  and 
much  of  Europe,  with  all  the  sugar  required,  and  con- 
trol the  market  of  the  world. 

The  coffee  tree  flourishes  in  the  vicinity  of  Orizaba 


COFFEE    PLANTATIONS RESOURCES   OF   MEXICO.      467 

in  all  possible  luxuriance,  and  the  product  of  the  but 
indifferently  tilled  plantations  between  this  point  and 
Paso  del  Macho,  is  sufficient  to  supply  the  demand  for  a 
considerable  extent  of  country.  Mexico  produces  nearly, 
or  quite,  enough  coffee  for  home  consumption,  and  un- 
der more  favorable  conditions  of  society  could  furnish 
in  a  short  time,  an  almost  unlimited  quantity  for  ex- 
port. To  sum  up  in  a  word,  the  Republic  of  Mexico 
has  within  her  limits  resources  of  wealth  and  comfort 
unbounded,  and  the  day  will  come — I  trust  it  may  not 
be  far  distant — when  she  will  be  regarded,  with  reason, 
as  the  Paradise  of  the  world. 

In  Mexico,  there  are  no  great  Express  Companies  to 
transport  specie  cheaply  and  quickly  through  the  coun- 
try, as  in  the  United  States ;  and  as  the  roads  swarin 
with  bands  of  robbers,  from  one  end  of  the  Republic 
to  the  other,  when  there  is  a  chance  for  plunder  offered, 
it  follows,  that  the  safety  of  the  silver  and  gold  from 
the  mines  of  the  interior,  on  its  way  to  th«  coast,  be- 
comes a  matter  of  such  importance  that  the  Government 
is  compelled  to  assume  the  responsibility  of  providing 
for  it.  Accordingly,  the  troops  are  always  held  ready 
to  escort  it  from  point  to  point,  and  protect  it,  at  any 
risk,  from  attack  and  plunder. 

Notice  is  .given,  of  the  time  a  u conducta"  will  leave 
Guanajuato,  San  Luis  Potosi,  or  other  point  for  Mexico, 
and  from  Mexico  for  Vera  Cruz,  and  shippers  avail 
themselves  of  the  opportunity  offered,  to  forward  the 
millions  of  hard  dollars  which  accumulate  in  a  few 
weeks  or  months  at  the  center  of  one  of  the  great  mi- 

O 

ning  districts,  willingly  paying  the  tax  imposed  in  order 
to  secure  the  protection  of  the  Government  troops ;  this 
protection  is  not  always  effectual,  as  recent  events  de- 


468  THE   GREAT   CONDUCTA. 

monstrate  that  the  escort  itself,  is,  sometimes,  not 
wholly  trustworthy  and  incorruptible.  When  we  were 
journeying  towards  the  coast,  the  state  of  affairs  along 
the  route  gave  additional  interest  to  the  movements  of 
the  conductas. 

For  some  weeks,  the  departure  x>f  the  conducta  from 
Mexico  with  treasure  for  Europe  and  the  United  States, 
had  been  the  theme  of  much  conversation  all  along  the 
road.  It  was  known  that  the  pronwiciados  in  the  State 
of  Puebla  had  their  eyes  upon  this  conducta,  and  would 
certainly  attack  it  if  they  found  themselves  strong 
enough,  or  the  guard  weak  enough,  to  warrant  them  in 
the  attempt.  Then  it  was  further  known,  that  Gen. 
Negrete  had  been  in  Mexico  in  disguise,  and  it  was 
feared  that  his  clandestine  visit  had  some  connection 
with  a  project  to  attack  this  conducta ;  and  therefore 
the  Government  had  made  extraordinary  arrangements 
for  its  protection. 

From  the  hour  of  its  starting  from  the  Capital,  down 
to  the  end  of  the  trip,  the  bulletin-board  at  the  Lonja 
at  Vera  Cruz,  had  shown  the  daily  progress  of  the  con- 
ducta, adding  "  all  safe "  at  each  new  announcement. 
The  precautions  taken  had  proved  all-sufficient,  and  the 
most  dangerous  portion  of  the  road  was  passed  or 
would  be  passed  in  a  day  or  two.  The  silver  was  ex- 
pected to  reach  Vera  Cruz  in  season  for  the  American 
steamer  Cleopatra  on  the  10th  of  January. 

On  Monday,  January  3d,  the  long  looked  for  con- 
ducta came  filing  into  the  City  of  Orizaba,  and  the 
whole  of  the  irregular,  wide,  main  street  of  the  town 
was  filled  with  it.  There  were  two  million  seven  hun- 
dred thousand  dollars  in  this  conducta,  and  the  entire 
train  resembled  a  division  of  a  grand  army  in  appear- 


ITS    ENCAMPMENT   AT    ORIZABA.  469 

ance.  There  were  forty-six  carts,  each  drawn  by  four- 
teen to  eighteen  mules  and  loaded  with  over  sixty 
thousand  dollars  in  specie,  and  pack-animals  and  carts 
for  the  baggage  of  the  escort,  and  the  escort  itself  con- 
sisted of  eight  hundred  men  of  all  arms,  viz .  five  hun- 
dred picked  infantry,  including  two  companies  of  Zapo- 
dores  from  the  capital,  under  the  immediate  command 
of  Major  Rocha,  nearly  three  hundred  cavalry,  and  a 
detachment  of  artillery  with  two  field-pieces,  all  under 
the  command  of  Colonel  Lerya  of  the  regular  army  of 
Mexico. 

The  conducta  did  not  take  the  railway,  but  marched 
down  the  old  stage  road,  via  Puebla,  and  came  on,  di- 
rect, toward  Vera  Cruz.  Their  encampment  in  the 
streets  of  Orizaba  presented,  one  of  the  most  novel  and 
interesting  spectacles  imaginable.  Each  cart  had  its 
separate  guard,  and  the  whole  a  general  one,  which  was 
changed  from  hour  to  hour,  day  and  night,  with  mili- 
tary precision ;  and  whether  on  the  march  or  in  camp, 
on  the  wild  mountains  or  in  a  quiet  city  like  Orizaba, 
the  care  and  watchfulness  was  never  for  a  moment  re- 
laxed. I  have  already  described  the  manner  of  the 
marching  of  a  detachment  of  Mexican  troops  as  we 
saw  it  between  Colima  and  Guadalajara ;  but  this  was 
a  repetition  of  that  scene  on  a  grander  and  more  ex- 
tended scale. 

Of  course  the  conducta  was  the  grand  feature  of  the 
day,  and  caused  a  great  excitement,  and  an  unwonted 
appearance  of  life  in  the  streets  of  Orizaba.  At  night 
the  spectacle,  when  the  troops  were  preparing  their 
suppers  and  making  ready  for  the  night,  was  more  wild 
and  picturesque  than  during  the  day. 

In  the  morning,  the  long  train  of  treasure-laden  carts, 


470  DEPAKTUKE    FI4OM    ORIZABA. 

with  its  advance-guard,  rear-guard,  and  immediate  es- 
cort was  in  motion  at  an  early  hour,  the  trumpets  and 
kettle-drums  of  the  different  corps  filling  the  air  with 
the  harsh,  discordant  music,  even  before  day-break,  and 
making  sleep  at  our  quarters  impossible. 

Mr.  Seward's  party  were  to  iTave  been  off  for  Paso 
del  Macho,  at  5  o'clock  A.  M.,  to  meet  the  special  train 
formerly  kept  for  the  special  use  of  Maximilian  and  his 
family,  and  still  known  as  "the  Imperial  Train,"  sent 
up  from  Vera  Cruz,  for  the  occasion ;  but  owing  to 
bungling  mismanagement  they  were  delayed  until  after 
7  o'clock,  and,  of  course,  compelled  to  crowd  on  all 
speed  to  make  up  for  lost  time.  The  long  train  of  the 
conducta  was  in  motion,  taking  up  all  the  highway,  but 
when  word  was  sent  that  Mr.  Seward  was  at  the  rear, 
it  halted  and  made  room  for  the  coach  to  pass,  and  the 
officers  and  men  of  each  corps  presented  arms  as  he 
went  by. 

I  went  down  to  Vera  Cruz  ahead  of  the  conducta, 
passing  it  on  the  way,  and  so  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  it  arrive  at  its  destination  and  witnessing  the 
final  scene.  The  dangerous  Pass  of  the  Chiquihuite 
having  been  made  successfully,  on  arriving  at  Paso  del 
Macho — the  western  end  of  the  Vera-Cruz  section  of  the 
railway — the  cavalry  and  artillery  were  dismissed,  and 
the  specie  transferred  to  the  cars — a  special  having  been 
provided — and  thence  went  on  to  Vera  Cruz  under  es- 
cort of  the  infantiy  only.  The  two  million  seven  hun- 
dred thousand  dollars  in  specie  was  all  packed  in  coarse 
sacks  of  maguey  fibre,  each  sack  holding  three  thousand 
dollars,  and  it  required  twelve  closed  box,  freight-cars 
to  transport  it. 

When  the  special  train  arrived  at  Vera  Cruz  the  cars 


ARRIVAL    OF   THE    SPECIE    AT    VERA   CRUZ.  471 

were  run  down  to  the  Custom  House  Plaza  in  front  of 
the  entrance  to  the  mole,  and  there  they  remained  until 
all  the  money  was  shipped  on  board  the  steamers  for 
New  York  and  Europe.  The  American  steamer  Cleo- 
patra carried  about  one  million  on  the  10th  of  January, 
and  the  French  steamer  of  the  13th, — owing  to  a  quar- 
rel about  charges  between  the  owners  of  the  American 
steam  line  and  the  shippers,  I  believe — the  remainder. 
Our  American  steamers  ought,  in  fact,  to  monopolize 
the  specie-carrying  trade  of  Mexico,  and  could  probably 
do  so  with  a  little  effort. 

While  the  cars  remained  in  the  plaza  the  troops  were 
quartered  under  a  portal  in  front  of  the  train.  A  guard 
patrolled  on  each  side  of  the  cars  day  and  night,  and  a 
soldier  with  a  loaded  musket  stood  on  the  roof  of  each 
car  all  the  time.  The  point  is  further  commanded  by 
the  guns  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa,  and  the  treasure  was 
therefore  as  safe  as  gunpowder,  balls,  and  bayonets  could 
make  it. 

It  was,  of  course,  not  absolutely  necessary  to  take 
such  extraordinary  precautions  for  the  protection  of 
this  special  conducta  in  Vera  Cruz  where  all  was  then 
quiet ;  but  it  is  the  custom  of  the  Government  to  re- 
quire the  officers  in  charge  of  the  escort  to  see  that  dis- 
cipline is  never  relaxed  for  a  moment,  and  that  all  the 
regulations  are  carried  out  to  the  letter,  until  the  treas- 
ure is  delivered  to  consignees  in  the  city,  or  safely  on 
board  the  steamers,  and  then  responsibility  ceases. 
The  Government  gets  eight  per  cent,  on  every  dollar — 
amounting  to  two  hundred  and  sixteen  thousand  dol- 
lars on  this  conducta  alone — when  it  passes  through  the 
Custom- House  gateway,  as  export  duty,  and  is  bound  to 
afford  full  protection  to  the  owners. 


^  THE    LNDIAN    SPECIE-COUNTERS. 

Much  of  the  silver  is  delivered  to  the  consignees  at 
their  counting  houses  in  the  city,  and  there  recounted, 
and  repacked  in  smaller  bags  containing  but  one  thou- 
sand dollars  each.  I  -  saw  in  the  house  of  Schliden  &> 
Co.,  one  day,  a  party  of  natives  at  work  counting  and 
repacking  a  half  million  of  these  bright  new  dollars. 
They  get  twelve  and  a  half  cents  for  each  one  thousand 
dollars  which  they  count  and  sew  up  in  the  new  bags, 
and  are  very  expert  in  detecting  defective  or  base  coin. 
It  is  said  that  when  they  pour  a  bag  of  these  dollars 
upon  the  table,  they  will  decide  in  an  instant  whether 
they  are  of  the  coinage  of  Zacatecas,  Guanajuato,  or 
Mexico,  by  the  difference  in  the  ring  of  each,  though  it 
is  wholly  imperceptible  to  the  ear  of  the  uninitiated. 
If  the  bags  are  found  short  the  deficit  is  charged  to  the 
shippers  at  Mexico  or  Guanajuato ;  if  in  excess — and 
this  is  not  uncommon — the  overplus  is  credited  to  the 
shippers. 

I  have  never  seen  any  specie-counters  or  experts,  who, 
could  beat  these  uneducated  Indian-blooded  Veracruz- 
anos,  save  the  Chinese  experts,  who  do  the  same  busi- 
ness for  the  banks  in  San  Francisco,  and  who  can  dis- 
count the  world  beyond  a  doubt. 

The  scene  reminded  me  of  an. incident  which  oc- 
curred at  the  city  of  Mexico  when  Gen.  Scott  entered 
the  capital  in  triumph.  A  detachment  of  Harney's 
dragoons  were  quartered  in  the  Palatio  National,  and 
before  order  was  fully  restored  they  broke  open  a  room 
in  the  Treasury  department  in  which  they  found  a  large 
number  of  Mexican  dollars— fourteen  or  sixteen  large 
sacks^,  if  memory  serves  me. 

In  an  instant  they  went  for  the  coin,  and  a  general 
scramble  took  place.  One  would  get  a  sack  upon  his 


BEMHaSCENCE   OF  THE  MEXICAN   WAK.  473 

shoulder,  when  another  would  slash  it  open  with  a 
bowie-knife  or  sword,  and  the  precious  pesos  would 
pour  down  in  a  shower  upon  the  floor.  Another  would 
fill  a  haversack  with  them,  only  to  meet  with  the  same 
treatment.  At  last  they  got  the  doors  closed  and  came 
to  an  understanding.  All  the  coin  was  piled  down  on 
the  floor,  and  a  fair  division  made.  Then  each  took  his 
share  of  the  plunder  and  concealed  it  around  his  quar- 
ters as  best  he  might.  Harney  was  unable  to  under- 
stand for  the  time,  how  it  was  that  this  party  kept  so 
remarkably  quiet  and  appeared  so  well  satisfied,  but  af- 
ter a  while  the  secret  leaked  out. 

A  dragoon  bought  something  on  the  streets,  and  of- 
fered a  dollar  in  payment.  The  seller — a  Mexican  of 
course — touched  the  coin  to  his  teeth,  and  returned  it 
respectfully,  with  the  single  remark,  "  Cobre  Senor !" 
Another  was  offered,  and  "  Cobre  Senor !"  was  still  the 
cry.  Another,  and  another,  and  still  no  change.  The 
dragoon  smelled  a  rat,  and  returned,  a  sadder  and  a 
wiser  man,  to  his  quarters.  Each  of  the  fortune-finders 
by  himself,  tried  to  buy  something,  sooner  or  later,  and 
met  with  the  same  discouraging  remark. 

It  turned  out  that  the  coin  was  the  plunder  of  an 
unauthorized  private  mint — in  fact  a  bogus-money  fac- 
tory— which  had  been  pounced  upon  by  the  Govern- 
ment, and  there  was  not  a  single  dollars  worth  of  gen- 
uine silver  in  the  entire  pile.  A  cheaper  looking  lot  of 
disappointed  speculators  never  congregated  in  a  "  played 
out "  Western  town,  or  skedaddled  from  a  base  metal 
camp  in  one  of  the  Pacific  Coast  mining  districts,  than 
was  seen  that  night  among  Uncle  Sam's  boys  in  the 
"  Palace  of  the  Montezumas." 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

VERA  CRUZ. 

IV/TR.  SEWARD,  worn  out  by  the  fatigues  of  the 
•  long  journey  from  Manzanillo  to  the  Gulf  Coast, 
remained  resting  at  Orizaba  until  Tuesday,  January 
4th,  being  for  the  first  time  in  three  months  in  a  posi- 
tion to  enjoy  a  little  undisturbed  quiet. 

During  his  stay  he  ascended  the  famous  Sierra  de 
Borregas — or  mountains  of  the  Sheep — which  overlook 
the  city.  The  ascent  of  from  eight  hundred  to  one 
thousand  feet  perpendicularly,  was  made  on  foot,  and 
was  accomplished  by  the  ex-premier  with,  apparently, 
as  little  fatigue  as  was  experienced  by  any  of  the  party. 

On  Sunday,  the  2d  of  January,  the  party  visited  the 
Indian  village  of  Jalapena,  in  a  deep  and  romantic 
gorge  or  canon  in  the  mountains  near  the  source  of  the 
Rio  Blanco,  the  stream  on  which  are  situated  the  Falls 
of  Riiicon  Grande,  described  in  the  last  chapter.  The 
inhabitants  paid  Mr.  Seward  every  possible  attention, 
and  the  visit,  though  devoid  of  startling  incident,  was 
a  very  pleasant  one  to  the  party. 

On  the  Monday  following,  a  deputation  of  the  sim- 
ple Indians  came  down  to  Orizaba,  to  present  Mr. 
Seward  with  a  curiously  carved  and  stained  cane,  of  a 
peculiar  wood  growing  by  the  banks  of  the  Blanco. 
This  cane  is  of  a  single  piece  of  wood,  and  the  handle 
represents  an  eagle's  foot  with  extended  talons,  very 


THE   SCENERY    OF    AFRICA.  475 

artistically  carved  by  a  native  and  wholly  untutored 
artist.  Among  the  hundreds  of  presents,  many  of 
which  are  very  valuable,  received  by  Mr.  Seward  in 
California  and  Mexico,  I  doubt  if  any  will  give  him 
more  pleasure  than  this. 

I  have  already  described  the  road  from  Orizaba  to 
Vera  Cruz.  The  Seward  party  was  overtaken  a  few 
miles  below  Orizaba,  by  Joseph  Branniff,  the  railway 
contractor's  superintendent,  who  was  going  down  to 
Paso  del  Macho,  with  a  light  buggy  drawn  by  two 
fast  mules.  Mr.  Seward  accepted  a  seat  with  Mr. 
Branuiff  in  this  carriage,  and  they  went  over  the  sev- 
enteen leagues  at  a  pace,  which,  if  it  did  not  endanger 
the  necks  of  the  party,  at  least,  gave  Mr.  Seward  a 
shaking  which  he  will  remember  to  the  end  of  his  life. 

The  magnificent  scenery  of  the  Chiquihuite  Pass 
delighted  him  more  than  anything  which  he  had  seen 
since  the  Barranca  de  Beltran,  and  so  reminded  him 
of  the  scenery  of  Africa  as  to  cause  him  to  remark, 
that  it  only  wanted  a  lion  or  two  by  the  road-side  to 
complete  the  picture,  and  make  the  illusion  perfect. 
There  are  plenty  of  tigers  lurking  in  the  chaparral 
along  this  road,  and  the  number  of  way-side  crosses 
ought  to  be  good  evidence  that  they  have  a  very,  satis- 
factory substitute  for  lions. 

The  work  of  constructing  the  railway  at  this  point  is 
truly  herculean  and  reminds  one  of  that  upon  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific  Railroad,  where  it  passes  over  the  summit 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  It  is  described  as  follows,  in  a. 
late  number  of  the  Diario  Oficial  of  the  City  of 
Mexico : 

"  After  leaving  the  station  of  Paso  del  Macho,  the 
road  passes,  by  means  of  a  bridge  three  hundred  feet 


476  KAILWAr    BUILDING   AT    CHIQUIHUITE. 

long  and  one  hundred  feet  high,  that  immense  neck  of 
land  which  separates  the  base  of  the  first  level  portion 
of  the  Cordilleras  from  the  plains  of  the  terra  caliente, 
or  the  hot  country.  This  bridge,  the  mason-work  of 
which  is  entirely  finished,  only  lacks  the  iron  floor  in 
order  to  be  open  to  the  public.  Having  passed  this 
great  work,  we  arrive,  by  a  series  of  curves  as  boldly 
as  scientifically  run,  at  the  great  bridge  of  San  Alejo, 
which  is  not  as  high  as  that  of  Paso  de  Macho,  but  sev- 
eral feet  longer.  From  San  Alejo  to  Chiquihuite  there 
is  nothing  but  deep  cuts  through  the  solid  rock,  and 
enormous  terrepleins,  making  the  great  inequalities  of 
that  broken  ground  entirely  disappear.  Chiquihuite 
Bridge,  which  is  over  three  hundred  feet  long,  is  eleva- 
ted more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  that 
abyss,  where  the  foaming,  cold  stream  that  gives  its 
name  to  this  part  of  the  mountain,  forever  leaps  and 
boils.  The  boldest  spirit  would  not  suspect  the  real 
tours  de  force  conceived  in  the  running  of  this  road  ac. 
complished  by  the  skill  of  Mr.  Buchanan,  and  com- 
pleted under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Branniff,  chief  of  con- 
struction. 

"  On  leaving  the  bridge,  the  road  follows  the  main 
highway  for  some  distance,  by  a  terreplein  of  sixty  feet 
high,  supported  by  a  wall  ten  feet  thick,  and  suddenly, 
as  in  the  shifting  of  scenes  in  a  theatre,  the  road  runs 
around  the  mountain,  suspended  on  its  sides.  It  was 
necessary  to  cut  it  through  solid  rock,  of  which  the 
side  of  this  mountain  is  composed.  The  laborers  en- 
gaged in  this  unequal  piece  of  work  have  to  hold  on 
to  the  rocks,  and  are  held  up  by  ropes,  which  makes 
them  resemble,  at  a  distance,  bees  in  a  honey-comb. 
The  road  continues  for  about  one  hundred  metres  along 


AEKIVAL    AND    EECEPTION   AT   VEKA    CRUZ.  477 

that  track  before  it  enters  the  first  tunnel  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  in  length ;  it  again  re-appears  only 
to  continue  its  aerial  route,  and  again  disappears  in  a 
tunnel  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  From  this  tun- 
nel the  road  passes  over  a  small  iron  bridge,  raised 
eight  hundred  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  ravine." 

At  Paso  del  Macho,  the  special  train  was  in  waiting 
at  2  1-2  p.  M.,  and  at  6  p.  M.,  the  party  was  in  Vera 
Cruz.  The  American  Consul  Mr.  Trowbridge,  Emilio 
B.  Schliden,  an  American  citizen,  formerly  of  Califor- 
nia, now  at  the  head  of  a  large  mercantile  house  there, 
who  had  placed  a  beautiful,  large  house,  ready 
furnished,  at  Mr.  Seward's  disposal,  Mr.  Joseph 
Brennon,  and  a  number  of  other  American  citizens 
were  at  the  depot,  ready  to  receive  him  and  escort  him 
to  his  home  in  Vera  Cruz. 

The  party  were  hardly  settled  in  the  house,  when 
the  Governor  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  the  comman- 
dant of  the  military  forces,  the  Collector  of  the  Port, 
the  officers  of  the  Custom-House  and  garrison,  and  other 
Federal  and  State  officials  in  full  uniform,  called  to 
present  their  respects,  and  offer  the  hospitalities  of  the 
city  and  their  own  services  in  any  manner  desired,  as 
the  hospitalities  of  Colima  and  the  Republic  of 
Mexico  had  been  offered  on  our  first  landing  on  the 
soil  of  the  country  at  Manzanillo,  three  months  before. 
There  were  no  formal  speeches  made,  but  the  greeting 
was  off-hand  and  cordial,  and  Mr.  Seward,  in  a  brief 
reply,  returned  thanks  for  the  honor  done  him. 

The  more  I  saw  of  this  odd,  old,  and  fearfully 
unhealthy  city  of  Vera  Cruz  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
the  more  I  was  interested  in  it.  Its  curious  old  forti- 
fications, dating  back  to  the  days  of  the  conquistador es, 


478 


SOUVENIRS    OF   PAST   OONLICTS. 


and  now  as  useless  piles  of  stone,  copper,  iron,  and 
coral  as  could  by  any  possibility  be  got  together ;  its 
mixed  and  mongrel  population;  its  wide,  straight 
streets,  paved  in  the  old  Spanish  style  with  the  gutters 
in  the  centre ;  the  old  churches  and  public  buildings, 
gray  and  worn  with  the  storms  of  centuries  and  any 
number  of  sieges  and  bombardments;  its  swarms  of 
Zapilotes,  and  its  hideous  and  importunate  beggars; 
everything,  in  fact,  about  the  place  is  interesting. 

At  the  corners  of  all  the  principal  streets  are  hitch- 
ing posts  of  a  novel  character :  old  Spanish,  iron  guns, 
set  in  the  ground,  breech  down,  and  often  rusted  away 
to  such  an  extent  as  to  be  hardly  recognizable.  I 
would  hesitate  some  time  before  hitching  my  horse  to 
such  a  post ;  suppose  it  should  happen  to  go  off  with  him  ? 

Many  of  the  buildings  still  bear  the  marks  of  the 
balls  and  shells  thrown  into  the  city  by  the  American 
Army  under  General  Scott ;  and  I  noticed  one  old 
church  which  was  then  partially  unroofed,  and  lia- 
never  been  repaired.  In  walking  about  the  streets 
I  frequently  saw  balls  or  pieces  of  exploded  shells, 
embedded  in  the  pavement.  Many  of  these  were 
thrown  into  the  city  by  Miramon,  in  the  attempt  to 
dislodge  Juarez  in  the  early  part  of  1860 — an  attempt 
which  was  frustrated  by  the  direct  interference  of  the 
American  Minister  and  the  American  fleet. 

The  Zapilotes  were  my  friends;  but  for  them  I 
should  have  had  no  amusement  or  occupation  for 
hours  at  a  time. 

You  should  have  seen  the  jolly  row  I  managed  to 
kick  up,  by  throwing  a  handful  of  garbage  to  them 
from  a  restaurant,  and  then  sending  a  small  dog  'among 
them,  to  worry  them  and  make  the  feathers  fly. 


ZAPILOTES.  479 

Nobody  knows  where  they  breed,  and  although  inquiry 
has  been  made  on  the  subject  for  almost  three  centuries 
and  a  half,  the  matter  is  still  a  mystery.  One  day  we 
bought  three  large  sea-shells,  each  with  the  original 
inhabitant  in  it.  To  get  the  monster  sea-snails  to 
come  out,  it  was  necessary  to  suspend  them  on  cords, 
with  a  good,  stout,  fish-hook  through  the  head  of  each. 
Little  by  little  the  creature  loses  his  grip,  and  in  about 
forty-eight  hours  he  lets  go  his  hold  entirely,  and  gives 
up  the  struggle. 

The  three  lines  with  the  three  great  pulpy  sea-snails 
on  the  three  hooks,  got  tied  together,  and  fell  into  the 
street,  by  accident  of  course — it  is  unlawful  to  kill  or 
injure  the  ZapUofes,  and  a  heavy  fine  is  inflicted  for 
doing  so — and  soon  the  Zapilotes  had  a  turn  at  them. 
Perhaps  it  was  not  fun  to  see  three  of  the  great,  black, 
awkward  fellows  fast  at  once,  each  going  it  on  his  own 
hook  as  it  were  !  They  have  very  strong  stomachs 
—and  well  they  might  considering  what  they  feed 
upon — but  the  strain  was  more  than  even  they  could 
stand,  and  I  am  of  the  opinion,  that  in  every  case,  at 
least  two  out  of  the  three  contestants  got  turned 
wrong  side  outwards  in  the  struggle.  But  it  did  not 
seem  to  discourage  the  rest  for  a  moment ;  and  for 
aught  I  know,  they  are  at  it  yet,  each  taking  a  turn  at 
the  tempting  morsels,  and  getting  swindled.  They 
seem  almost  wholly  lost  to  the  force  of  example,  and 
like  men,  must  learn,  each  for  himself,  by  personal 
experience. 

Even  our  hotel — and  it  was  far  the  best  in  the  city — 
was  interesting  as  a  subject  for  study.  The  charges  were 
moderate,  three  dollars  and  fifty  cents  per  day  in  coin, 
with  wine  and  early  coffee  extra — say  about  five  dollars 


480  A    LIVELY   HOTEL. 

all  told,  if  you  are  not  too  extravagant  in  your  tastes. 
Every  style  of  business  is  carried  on  in  the  building. 
There  is  a  store-house,  and  tailor  shop  with  several 
sewing-machines  on  the  lower  floor.  Up  stairs,  the 
office,  bar,  and  billiard  room  are  all  one.  The  best 
rooms  in  the  house  extend  out^over  the  portal,  and  are 
light  and  well  ventilated,  but  not  luxuriously  furnished. 
I  had  one  of  these  rooms.  The  room  next  me  was  oc- 
cupied by  a  party  who  were  playing  poker  all  night  for 
big  money. 

I  was  kindly  invited  to  take  a  hand  in  this  friendly 
little  poker  game,  but  being  a  youth  of  modest  and  re- 
tiring turn  of  mind,  reluctantly  declined.  I  thought 
it  would  break  my  heart,  if  I  were  to  go  in  there  and 
win  all  the  money  from  such  gentlemanly,  courteous, 
and  considerate  young  men ;  at  any  rate,  I  never  could 
forgive  myself  for  doing  it. 

The  room  next  on  the  other  side,  was  infested  by 
some  game  of  which  I  have  no  personal  knowledge. 
Beyond  this,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brennon  were  quartered,  and 
a  young  Mexican  lady  going  to  the  United  States  oc- 
cupied the  next.  Adjoining  was  a  faro  or  monte  bank, 
and  beyond  that  two  roulette  tables  running  all  night. 
In  the  billiard  room  they  were  playing  pool  for  money, 
through  nearly  the  entire  twenty-four  hours.  Business, 
it  will  be  seen,  is  not  entirely  dead  in  Vera  Cruz.  The 
partitions  between  the  rooms  are  of  rough  boards,  and 
do  not  come  quite  up  to  the  ceiling ;  so  that  the  occu- 
pant of  each  room  gets  the  full  benefit  of  whatever  may 
be  going  on  in  the  next. 

The  principal  business  on  the  streets  seemed  to  be 
selling  lottery  tickets  in  behalf  of  various  useful  public 
enterprises.  The  tickets  cost  twenty-five  to  thirty- 


THE   CHAIN-GANG.  481 

seven  and  one-half  cents  each,  and  the  prizes  range 
from,  five  to  five  hundred  dollars.  I  never  heard  any 
man  complain  that  he  had  drawn  a  prize  and  did  not 
get  his  money ;  I  think  he  would  run  a  risk  of 
getting  it  promptly  if  he  ever  drew  one.  I  patronized 
"  a  favor  del  Telegrafo  de  Jalacingo  a  Tampico,"  to  the 
extent  of  about  the  cost  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the 
line,  more  or  less,  and  am  satisfied  that  it  is  indeed  "  a 
favor "  of  the  company ;  it  did  not  come  out  in  my 
favor  on  a  single  occasion.  They  draw  every  week  and 
it  appears  to  pay — the  company. 

All  the  carting  which  is  done  in  the  city  is  effected 
by  mule  power.  One  little  mule  with  a  sore  back  is 
hitched  in  the  shafts  of  a  huge,  clumsy,  high- wheeled 
wooden  cart,  and  the  driver  rides  upon  another,  which 
is  slung  alongside  outside  the  shafts,  and  pretends  to 
help  the  load  along,  as  he  doubtless  does  when  in  a 
tight  place  and  he  cannot  help  it.  The  arrangement 
is  first-rate  when  it  comes  to  swinging  around  a  corner, 
but  on  a  direct  pull  it  might  be  improved.  All  the 
baggage  is  carried  from  the  wharf  or  depot  to  the 
hotels,  and  vice  versa,  on  the  backs  or  heads  of  men. 

The  chain-gang,  not  merely  in  name,  but  in  the  good, 
old,  southern,  European  style — is  one  of  the  institu- 
tions of  Vera  Cruz  as  of  most  other  Mexican  cities, 
and  is  made  quite  useful,  if  not  entirely  ornamental. 
The  gentlemen  connected  with  this  branch  of  the 
public  service  wear  a  leathern  belt  around  the  waist, 
and  a  broader  band  of  thick  leather  around  the  left 
ankle.  Between  these  points  there  is  a  heavy  chain, 
with  links  each  about  six  inches  long.  In  case  of  one 
of  them  being  run  over  by  a  railway  train,  or  cut  into 

by   a  falling  timber,  this   arrangement  prevents  the 
31 


482  A    PRIVATE    QUAEREL. 

different  parts  getting  scattered  about  and  lost.  For 
convenience  they  travel  two  by  two,  a  metallic  connec- 
tion enabling  them  to  keep  step  with  military  precision. 

I  saw  about  twenty  of  them  at  work  one  day  at  the 
mole,  carrying  heavy  beams  of  Spanish  cedar — the 
wood  from  which  we  make  Havana  cigar  boxes  in  the 
United  States — up  into  the  city.  They  were  guarded 
by  a  squad  of  soldiers,  with  loaded  muskets  and  fixed 
bayonets,  who  kept  them  to  their  work  in  lively  style, 
their  chains  clinking  musically,  all  the  time.  By 
accident  the  sharp  edge  of  a  heavy  beam  came  down 
on  the  sandaled  foot  of  one  of  the  operatives,  when 
his  great  toe-nail  opened  like  an  alligator's  jaws,  and 
snapped  viciously  at  the  wood.  The  owner  of  the  toe, 
picked  up  his  end  of  the  beam,  and  went  off  with  his 
three  companions  on  a  dog-trot,  seeming  oblivious  of 
the  fact  that  there  had  been  any  quarrel  going  on. 

Vera  Cruz  is  the  most  important  sea-port  of  the 
Republic  of  Mexico,  and  it  may  be  interesting  to  the 
outside  world  to  know  how  its  population  is  made  up, 
and  what  is  the  mental  and  moral  standing  of  the 
inhabitants.  The  following  figures  I  take  from  the 
official  census  returns  made  in  April,  1869.  The  returns 
copied  are  for  the  Municipality  .of  Vera  Cruz,  consist- 
ing of  the  old  city  within  the  walls  and  the  district  in 
the  immediate  vicinity,  comprising  almost  as  much  ter- 
ritory as  is  included  in  the  Metropolitan  District  of 
New  York.  The  population  of  the  municipality  is  as 
follows : 

Males  living  within  the  walls,  5,164 

"  "       outside         "  920 

Females  "       within          ......         6,372 


THE  PEOPLE  OF  VEEA  CRUZ.  483 

Females  living  outside  the  walls                -  -     1,036 

Males  living  in  the  country  beyond  the  city,  1,255 

Females  "  "        "           "             "                "  1,103 

Total  population,  15,850 
The  ages  of  the  inhabitants  are  stated  as  follows : 

Males  under  ten  years,  1,810 

Females  "         "  '      "  -     1,813 

Males  between  ten  and  sixteen  years,  —  938 

Females     "            "               "          "  -     1,002 

Males  between  sixteen  and  fifty,    "  4,157 

Females         "         "                         "    -  -     5,131 

Males  over  fifty  years,   -                           -  434 

Females  «     "         «  •       565 

EDUCATION. 

Single  males  able  to  read  and  write,  -     2,531 

"         "         notable."       "       "  3,140 

"       females  able  to    "       "       "  -     1,143 

u               unot      u       «       «         a         u  ^652 

Married  men  who  can  read  and  write,  879 

"         "  who  cannot  "       "         "  540 

"     women  who  can  read  and  write,    -  561 

"     cannot  read  and  write,  •  887 

Widowers  who  can  "  "  "  129 

"  "  cannot  "  "  "  -  120 

Widows  who  can  "  "  "  -  286 

"  "  cannot  "  "  "  -  982 

Total  males  able  to  read  and  write,  -         -  -     3,539 

"                  "          -  3,800 


484  THEIK   KEUGION   AND   NATIONALITY. 

Total  Females  able  to  read  and  write,        •        •     1,990 
"  "       not       "  "      "         "  6,521 

EELIGION. 

Catholics,  •        -  15,777 

Protestants,  (all  foreigners,)  -  •                       71 

Jews,  1 

Mahomedans,  1 

The  nationality  of  the  inhabitants  is  as  follows : 

Mexicans,  .  14,384 

Spaniards,      -  736 

Cubans,  (nearly  all  political  exiles,)  -       242 

French,  .           218 

Citizens  of  the  United  States,   -  .108 

Germans,  -                                68 

Italians,     -  -                           37 

English,  -                      23 

Peruvianos,  -        -                    5 

Africans,  -                         5 

Other  or  uncertain  nationalities,  .                 24 

The  number  of  persons  of  all  .ages  who  have  any 
lucrative  and  self-sustaining  employment  is  set  down 
at  7,407,  while  those  who  have  no  such  employment  is 
stated  at  8,443. 

In  making  up  this  list,  the  soldiers  of  the  garrison, 
the  sick  in  the  hospitals,  and  the  civil  and  military 
prisoners  are  not  included.  If  they  were,  included  the 
disproportion  of  females  to  males  would  be  still 
greater.  The  number  of  widows  and  unmarried 
women  between  sixteen  and  fifty,  tells  its  own  eloquent 


AN   UNPOPULAR   INSTITUTION.  485 

story  of  the  desolation  which  so  many  years  of  civil  and 
foreign  war  have  brought  upon  the  land.  The  greater 
number  of  those  set  down  as  having  no  lucrative 
occupation  are,  of  course,  women  and  children,  but 
there  must  be  at  least  fifteen  hundred  to  twenty- 
five  hundred  adult,  able-bodied  males  included  in  that 
list.  The  mole — what  the  storms  have  left  of  that 
costly  work  of  the  old  Spaniards — swarms  with  them 
whenever  a  steamer  arrives,  and  when  a  train  with  a 
few  passengers  comes  in  they  rush  up  by  dozens  and 
fifties,  to  carry  your  trunk  to  the  hotel  on  their  backs ; 
hacks  and  baggage  wagons  there  are  none  in  Vera  Cruz. 
Marriage  is  evidently  not  a  popular  institution  in 
Vera  Cruz,  and  the  Church — however  much  it  may 
preach  against  the  sin  of  adultery — certainly  in  prac- 
tice must  be  somewhat  responsible  for  it,  as  its  exac- 
tions make  it  quite  difficult  for  the  poor  to  contract 
marriage.  As  out  of  the  entire  population  of  fifteen 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty  souls,  all  but  seventy- 
three  are  professed  Catholics,  and  as  there  is  no  Prot- 
estant or  other  church  organization,  save  the  Catholic, 
in  the  municipality,  the  honor  or  blame  of  the  moral 
condition  of  society  in  Vera  Cruz  belongs,  altogeth- 
er, to  the  Mother  Church.  Vera  Cruz  has  more  com- 
merce and  more  travel  than  any  other  port  of  Mex- 
ico, and  her  population  ought  to  rank  higher  in  the 
scale  of  enlightenment  and  prosperity  than  that  of  any 
other  sea -port  town.  Though  the  city  is  annually 
scourged  by  the  Yellow  Fever,  or  "  Vomito,"  and  is 
unhealthy  from  miasmatic  influences  all  the  year 
around,  many  educated  and  influential  families,  native 
and  foreign  born,  reside  here,  and  the  circle  of  really  good 
society  is  much  larger  than  would  be  supposed  from 


486  ARRIVAL   OF   THE   EUJENIA. 

the  above  figures.  Among  the  merchants  there  is  dis- 
couragement and  gloom,  and  among  the  people  at 
large,  more  of  uncertainty  as  to  the  future,  apathy,  or 
actual  discontent,  than  I  saw  anywhere  else  in  the 
Republic. 

I  went  down  with  the  crowd  one  day,  to  see  the  ar- 
rival of  a  coasting  steamer — everybody  in  Vera  Cruz 
goes  down  to  the  mole  to  see  a  steamer,  big  or  little, 
come  in.  The  arrival  was  the  little  square-toed  side- 
wheeler,  Eujenia,  from  Tlacotalplam — and  steamer  and 
cargo  reminded  me,  forcibly,  of  the  description  of  the 
Yankee  trading  craft  which  Marryatt  in  one  of  his  nov- 
els, describes  so  vividly.  I  mean  the  craft  he  met  com- 
ing out  of  the  West  Indies,  whose  captain  sold  his 
spars  to  a  French  privateer,  and  then  sent  the  English 
privateer  into  a  trap,  by  telling  him  that  there  was  but 
one  French  vessel  instead  of  two,  and  the  force  so 
small  and  unprepared  as  to  make  it  perfectly  safe  to  at- 
tack them  when  they  were  lying  at  anchor  repairing. 
The  steamer  might  possibly  be  one  hundred  feet  long 
and  about  half  as  broad,  with  a  bow  so  like  an  old 
fashioned  man-of-war's  stern,  as  to  make  it  a  matter  of 
doubt  whether  she  would  travel  best  "  end  foremost "  or 
"  broadside  on." 

A  motley  list  of  passengers  and  a  mixed  cargo  had 
been  picked  up  along  the  coast.  The  passengers  were 
of  all  colors  and  nationalities,  and  from  seventy-five  to 
one  hundred  in  number.  About  half,  appeared  to  have 
complexions  disastrously  affected  by  coast-fevers  and 
malarious  diseases.  As  for  the  cargo,  it  comprised  a 
little  of  everything.  Crates  of  live  chickens,  great 
earthenware  jars  for  holding  drinking  water,  bunches 
of  plantains  and  bananas,  rolls  of  tiger  skins,  bales  on 


AMATEUB    BULL-FIGHTING.  491 

cage.  And  so  the  entertainment  ended.  I  regret  to 
add  that  when  the  bull  was  raised  to  his  feet  it  was 
found  that  his  back  was  so  injured  that  he  could  not 
stand  and  he  must  be  killed.  The  buzzards  had  already 
gathered  in  clouds  in  the  vicinity,  as  if  conscious  that 
a  feast  was  being  prepared.  This  is  Sunday  amusement 
in  Vera  Cruz.  But  it  was  death  on  the  bull. 

But  the  bull  does  not  always  get  the  worst  of  it,  in 
>  encounters  with  man  and  beast,  in  Mexico  and  else- 
'  where.     I  remember  a  bull  and  bear  fight  in  New  Or- 
leans, in  which  the  Attakapas  bull  General  Jackson, 
<  doubled  up  the  bear  like  an  old  shoe  at  the  first  charge, 
and  made  him  bellow  for  help  in  a  few  seconds.     I  re- 
•  gret  to  say,  that  on  that  occasion  my  sympathies  were 
L  so  strongly  with  the  bear  at  the  start,  that  I  lost  all 
"the  money  that  my  boyish  industry  had  gathered  to- 
s  gether   in  several  months.     After  the  lapse  of  many 
years  I  got  even  at  Vera  Cruz. 

A  distinguished  Mexican  gentleman— whose  name  I 
suppress  for  various  reasons — told  us,  one  day  on  the 
trip  from  Guanajuato  to  Mexico,  of  his  experience  in 
bull-fighting  in  one  of  the  larger  cities  of  the  Repub- 
lic.    It  is  the  custom  in  bull-fighting  countries,  for  the 
young  bloods  of  the  first  families,  who  wish  to  distin- 
guish themselves,  to  appear  in  the  Plaza  de  Toros  as 
amateurs,  and  fight  the  bull  on  important  occasions. 
When  Maximilian  arrived  in  Mexico,  a  special  gran 
funcion  was  gotten  up  for  his  benefit,  and  the  young 
men  of  some  of  the  oldest  and  most  aristocratic  of  the 
Mocho  families  of  the  capital,  appeared  in  the  ring  as 
picadors  and  matadors,  the  royal  couple  presiding  at  the 
brutal  entertainment  and  delivering  the  prizes  to  the 
heroes  of  the  conflict. 


492  AN  AMATEUR'S  STORY. 

On  such  occasions  the  amateur  is  usually  allowed  a 
companion,  who  is  posted  in  the  ways  of  the  ring  and 
is  called  a  "padrino"  The  padrino  directs  the  ama- 
teur how  to  carry  on  the  fight,  and,  in  fact,  acts  as  his 
chaperon  and  next  friend,  throughout.  Our  acquaint- 
ance was  crowded  into  the  fight  against  his  will ;  but 
I  will  let  him  tell  it  himself  as  he  told  it  to  us : 

"  I  said,  *  No,  no,  the  bull  has  done  me  no  insult ; 
why  should  I  fight  with  him  ?  But  they  all  said,  '  you 
are  a  brave  young  man,  and  want  to  make  your  way  in 
the  world,  and  be  popular  with  the  ladies ;  it  is  better 
that  you  begin  now  that  you  have  so  good  time,  and 
fight  the  bull.'  So  I  let  them  put  my  name  on  the  bills. 
Well,  I  liked  this  matter  not  ver/much  at  all,  but  I 
could  not  get  out  of  it,  and  so  they  kept  me  in.  When 
the  day  comes,  I  went  in  with  my  padrino,  and  said  to 
myself  when  I  sees  the  bull,  '  I  will  keep  over  on  the 
other  side  and  let  the  others  do  the  fight.'  But  after  a 
time  the  audience  began  to  get  excited,  and  to  encour- 
age me  on,  they  commenced  to  throw  oranges  and  such 
trifles  at  me  pretty  lively.  Then  my  padrino  comes  up 
to  me  and  he  says : 

'  Look  you ;  this  will  not  do  very  well  at  all ! 
If  you  do  not  fight  the  bull  there  will  be  a  row,  and  it 
is  better  that  you  do  not  disgrace  yourself!' 

"  So  I  told  him,  I  will  fight  the  bull  sooner  as  to  dodge 
my  head  all  the  times  from  the  oranges  and  banana- 
which  the  audience  throws  at  me.  He  looked  at  my 
saddle  and  said : 

'  The  cinch  is  loose,  and  it  is  better  that  you  get  off 
and  let  me  tighten  it  before  you  go  into  the  fight.' 

u  So  I  got  off  and  stood  by  the  side  of  my  horse 
looking  at  him  to  cinch  him  tighter.  This  time  I  was 


OF   HIS   EXPEKIENCE   AT   BULL-FIGHIING.  493 

stooping  over,  and  saw  not  the  bull,  which  I  was  think- 
ing was  on  the  other  side  of  the  ring.  As  I  so  stood 
I  feel  myself  lifted  up  into  the  air,  and  when  I  came 
down  the  bull  was  on  my  top,  tramping  me,  and  using 
his  horns  on  me,  so  that  when  they  got  him  away  I 
could  not  stand,  and  was  confined  to  my  bed  for  six 
weeks. 

"  Then  they  told  me,  when  I  was  well  again,  that  the 
judges  had  awarded  me  the  highest  prize,  because  I 
had  expose  myself  so  bravely  to  the  bull,  and  not  try 
for  to  get  out  of  the  way  when  he  come  for  me. 

"  I  said,  that  is  all  very  well ;  I  was  always  a  brave 
man  and  care  not  much  for  the  bull."  Then  they  said  : 

'  But  the  judges  let  that  bull  out  alive,  and  decided 
that  when  you  should  recover  and  the  bull  should  re- 
cover, you  should  fight  it  over  once  more  again  together. 
You  are  well  and  the  bull  is  very  well  indeed.' 

"  I  said,  no,  I  have  no  desire  to  hurt  the  bull.  He 
was  receive  much  aggravation,  and  I  forgive  him  for 
what  he  did  do  to  me  !" 

"  They  said  that  such  language  would  not  do  for  the 
judges,  and  if  I  did  not  like  to  fight  the  bull  again  I 
was  disgrace  for  life,  and  it  was  better  I  should  leave 
the  city  that  evening.  Now  there  was  a  young  lady 
there  which  I  thought  of  very  much,  and  I  concluded 
it  was  better  to  fight  the  bull  than  to  lose  the  lady. 

"  When  we  went  into  the  ring  again,  I  see  the  bull 
looking  very  mad  and  ugly,  and  I  concluded  I  would 
go  over  on  the  other  side  and  wait  a  little  while ;  prob- 
ably he  might  get  better-natured  or  afraid  to  come  at 
me.  But  pretty  soon,  the  people  they  commenced  to 
encourage  me  with  fruit  and  such  things  as  I  don't  eat, 
and  cry  out  to  me  to  go  in  and  fight  the  bull  at  once,  or 


494  AN  AMATEUR'S  STORY. 

come  out  of  the  ring.  So  I  told  my  padrino  I  would 
fight  him  a  little  but  do  not  feel  very  well. 

"  He  said  :^"  It  is  better  you  should  throw  the  landa- 
rillas  into  the  bull's  neck.  I  will  attract  the  attention 
of  the  bull,  and  when  you  are  ready  to  throw,  you  call 
out  and  I  will  jump  aside." 

"  I  said  I  would  do  so,  and  mypadrino  went  up  to  the 
bull,  and  begun  to  dance  around  before  his  nose.  Then 
I  ran  up  to  throw  the  bandarillas,  but  I  was  so  excited 
that  I  have  forgotten  to  call  out  to  him  to  get  out  of 
the  way,  and,  when  I  let  them  go  they  strike  him  in 
the  back  instead  of  the  bull.  Then  my  padrino  he 
bellow  louder  as  ever  the  bull  should  do,  and  begin  to 
dance  like  a  tarantula  and  catch  at  the  landarillas.  At 
last  he  got  hold  of  them  and  tore  the  barbs  out  of  his 
flesh.  Then  he  runs  over  to  me  and  pulls  me  down, 
and  begin  to  beat  me  over  the  head  and  the  back  with 
the  flat  side  of  his  sword,  and  his  foot  and  he  says  : 

"Look  here  you  now!  It  is  better  before  we  go 
any  further,  that  one  thing  shall  be  understood  imme- 
diate. Are  you  the  padrmo  of  me,  or  the  padrino  of 


"  He  was  so  very  angry  that  I  could  not  say  an  expla- 
nation, and  so  I  told  him  I  would-  go  home,  for  I  like 
not  the  sport,  and  it  might  make  us  bad  friends  or 
something  if  we  kept  on.  Some  of  the  oranges  and 
apples  and  things  which  they  throwed  at  me  as  I  went 
out  were  very  solid,  and  I  left  the  town  that  night. 
Since  then  I  have  had  no  quarrel  with  the  bulls,  and  I 
like  not  to  have  any  more." 

While  waiting  at  Vera  Cruz  for  the  arrival  of  Mr. 
Seward  from  Orizaba,  and  the  departure  of  the  good 
steamer  Cleopatra  which  was  to  bear  us  away,  at  last, 


CASTLE  OF  SAN  JUAN  DE  ULLOA.         495 

from  the  shores  of  Mexico,  I  sought  for  and  obtained, 
through  the  kindness  of  my  Mexican  ajid  American 
friends,  a  permit  to  visit,  and  inspect  in  all  its  details, 
the  Castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ullo'a. 

Accompanied  by  two  ladies,  Mr.  Brennan,  and  some 
military  friends,  we  embarked  in  a  Custom-House  boat, 
and  were  rowed  over  to  the  famous  old  fortress,  on  a 
warm  bright  morning,  when  the  sea  was  calm,  and  the 
water  so  clear  that  we  could  see  every  object  in  it  down 
to  the  bottom.  The  waters  of  this  coast  fairly  swarm 
with  sharks  of  the  most  savage  description,  and  we  saw 
several  of  the  grey  monsters  disporting  themselves  near 
the  surface  and  keeping  a  weather-eye  open  for  a  ahance 
to  take  somebody  in,  as  we  rowed  along. 

The  Spaniards  lavished  millions  on  millions  upon  the 
construction  of  this  fortress,  which  was  intended  to 
serve  as  a  complete  protection  to  Vera  Cruz  and  the 
shipping  which  might  gather  here,  from  the  attacks  of 
the  dreaded  English  buccaneers  who  were  desolating 
'the  whole  Spanish  Main,  and  practicing  cruelties  on 
their  luckless  captives  as  atrocious  as  those  which  the 
Spaniards  had  inflicted  upon  the  unfortunate  natives 
of  tropical  America.  Enormous  rings  of  pure  copper 
were  built  into  the  solid  wall,  along  the  whole  western 
front  of  the  castle  next  the  city,  for  the  ships  to  fasten 
to,  under  the  protection  of  the  guns  of  the  fortress. 
Those  rings  are  still  there,  but  now  amount  to  but  so 
many  tons  of  old  copper,  as  the  water  has  shoaled  to 
such  an  extent  as  to  render  it  impossible  for  any  vessel 
above  the  grade  of  a  yawl-boat  to  lie  there,  if  there 
was  any  longer  a  necessity  for  their  doing  so.  The 
steamers  now  anchor  inside  the  reef,  on  the  North  of 
the  Castle,  and  sail-vessels  to  the  South  of  it.  The 


496  WHAT   IT   WAS   AND   IS. 

American  steamer  Cleopatra,  being  of  comparatively 
light  draft,  and  not  large  and  unwieldy,  runs  in  be- 
tween  the  castle  and  mole,  and  was  then  lying  at  an- 
chor there. 

An  immense  coral  reef  extends  out  to  the  north-west 
from  the  castle  for  several  mile*)  and  from  this  most  of 
the  material  for  building  the  fortress  was  taken.  The 
size  of  this  coral  formation  is  astonishing.  Many  of 
the  specimens  are  three  feet  in  thickness — like  the 
trunks  of  great  trees,  in  fact.  As  we  neared  the  castle 
we  could  see  that  a  section  of  the  entire  wall  some 
thirty  feet  long,  the  same  in  height,  and  twelve  or  fif- 
teen feet  in  thickness  ,  being  undermined,  had  broken 
out,  and  now  leans  over  towards  the  city,  leaving  a 
great  gap,  which  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  fill. 
The  boat-landing  is  in  the  interior  of  the  castle,  a 
crooked  passage,  evidently  excavated  in  the  coral  for 
that  purpose,  leading  up  to  that  point.  This  passage 
was  formerly  flanked  by  substantial  walls,  which  are 
now  in  ruins. 

No  description  of  the  castle  would  give  any  clear  idea 
of  its  character,  without  a  ground  plan  or  diagram  to  il- 
lustrate it.  The  immensely  thick  walls,  all  the  way 
around,  are  backed  by  a  range  of  barracks,  dungeons, 
and  offices,  whose  roof  of  solid  stone,  flat,  thick,  and 
paved  on  the  top  with  cement,  would  support  batteries 
of  almost  any  weight.  All  the  guns  in  the  fortress 
were  originally  mounted  en  barbette,  upon  this  roof. 
There  is  nothing  like  a  casemate  with  protection  for 
the  gunners  about  the  castle.  The  guns — mostly  of 
iron,  and  ranging  from  thirty-two  to  sixty-four  pounders, 
made  in  1844-5 — are  all  in  bad  condition,  the  carriages 
nearly  valueless  from  decay,  and  many  dismounted  and 


A    GEEAT    WOEK   IN    RUINS.  497 

lying  useless  on  the  roof.  Inside  there  are  court-yards, 
plazas  or  parade-grounds  of  sufficient  extent  for  a  large 
force,  and  quarters  for  a  thousand  men  or  more. 

The  Spaniards,  in  constructing  this  fortress,  made  all 
provision  for  defending  it  to  the  last  extremity  against 
assault.  The  moat  passed  and  the  outer  wall  scaled, 
the  assailants  would  find  the  garrison  retreating  into 
several  minor  castles,  each  with  its  own  moat  and  draw- 
bridge, and,  in  those  days,  "  a  hard  nut  to  crack,"  in 
every  sense  of  the  expression.  The  moat  is  now  so 
filled  with  sand  and  debris  as  to  be  fordable  even  at 
high-tide,  and  the  old  draw-bridges  being  no  longer  of 
any  use,  have  been  replaced  by  bridges  which  are  fixed 
in  their  places  and  answer  better  the  purposes  of  com- 
munication between  the  different  sections  of  the  castle. 
I  should  say  at  a  rough  guess,  that  the  whole  fortifica- 
tion covers  eight  to  ten  acres. 

Outside  the  old  main  wall,  on  the  eastern  front  and 
northern  end,  there  is  now  an  earth- work  of  sufficient 
height  to  screen  the  gunners,  and  mounted  with  about 
twenty  pretty  heavy  guns.  This  battery  if  put  in  or- 
der, might  be  capable  of  doing  some  serious  damage  to 
a  hostile  fleet ;  but  the  value  set  upon  it  by  the  French 
may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  they  dumped  an 
enormous  pile  of  coal — some  thousands  of  tons — right 
into  it,  covering  several  of  the  guns  on  the  north  end 
to  a  depth  of  many  feet,  and  the  coal  lies  there  yet, 
just  as  they  left  it  in  the  haste  of  their  departure,  I 
suppose  that  I  break  no  law  of  hospitality  in  saying 
what  everybody  who  has  visited  the  castle  within  the 
last  ten  years  knows,  that,  practically,  this  old  fortress, 
once  one  of  the  strongest  and  most  formidable  in  the 
world,  is  to  day  utterly  worthless  for  defence  against  a 


498  THE    GARRISON    AND    PRISONERS. 

hostile  fleet  of  any  strength.  So  well  aware  are  the 
military  men  and  Government  of  Mexico  of  this  fact, 
that  no  attempt  is  now  made  to  improve  it,  or  even 
keep  it  in  repair ;  and  it  is  now  considered  merely  as  a 
fortified  prison,  rather  than  as  a  real  castle  of  defense 
against  invaders.  A  vigorous  bombardment  of  a  few 
hours  by  heavy  artillery  would  reduce  it  to  a  pile  of 
ruins,  but  there  is  no  likelihood  of  any  necessity  for 
even  that,  as  the  experience  of  Gen.  Scott  and  other 
commanders,  shows  that  the  city  can  be  taken  with  lit- 
tle trouble  by  an  attack  from  the  land  side,  and  the  cas- 
tle is  then  useless  to  either  party. 

Leaving  our  boat  at  the  landing,  we  passed  into  the 
main  square  or  parade-ground,  and  from  thence  to  the 
Salle  des  Armas,  where  we  were  received  most  courte- 
ously by  the  commandant  Colonel  Carbo,  Captain  For- 
tunato  Mendez  the  second  in  command,  and  their  sub- 
ordinates. Even  at  this  time — the  early  part  of  Janu- 
ary— the  heat  of  the  sun — reflected  back  from  the  ce- 
ment pavement  and  the  white  walls  surrounding — was 
oppressive  in  the  plaza  as  we  passed  through  it ;  what 
it  must  be  in  June,  July,  or  August,  I  have  no  wish  to 
know  from  experience.  It  must  be  perfectly  fearful. 

The  commandant  was  a  young  man  of  slight  statue, 
but  said  to  be  a  good  officer  and  a  man  of  great  bra- 
very and  determination  of  character.  From  his  quar- 
ters we  went  through  the  interior  of  the  castle.  The 
garrison  consisted  of  two  hundred  men,  and  within  the 
gloomy  dungeons  of  this  fearful  place  there  were  eighty 
prisoners,  civil  and  military,  several  of  whom  are  un- 
der sentence  of  imprisonment  for  life. 

These  dungeons  were  constructed  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  all  smell  of  the  rack,  torture,  and  inquisition.     My 


THE    DUNGEONS.  499 

God  !  such  a  place  to  immure  a  human  being  in !  It 
makes  one  shudder  to  think  of  it,  after  looking  at  those 
dark,  noisome  caverns ;  what  must  it  be  to  enter  there 
with  the  word  "perpetua  "  entered  on  the  books  against 
one's  name !  Death  at  once,  would  be  a  mercy  beside 
it. 

The  number  of  these  low,  vaulted  cells,  connecting 
one  with  another,  is  hardly  less  than  sixty  to  eighty,  all 
told,  and  the  best  of  them  is  but  a  little  less  horrible 
than  the  worst.  The  roof  is  low,  and  arched  in  each, 
the  walls,  roof  and  floor  of  one  piece,  as  it  were,  and  in 
most  of  them  the  only  ventilation  is  through  a  small 
opening  in  the  top,  so  slight  as  to  admit  of  the  entrance 
of  but  a  mere  glimmer  of  light  at  midday.  A  few 
have  small,  narrow,  port-holes,  or  slits,  through  the 
outer  walls  looking  seaward,  but  they  are  so  cun- 
ningly contrived,  being  bent  or  curved  as  they  pass 
through  the  thick  stone-work,  that  the  poor  wretches 
inside  can  never  see  through  them  and  get  even  a 
glimpse  of  a  sail  or  the  sea  outside. 

What  fearful  tales  of  hopeless  misery,  despair,  and 
lingering  but  welcome  death,  could  those  damp,  drip- 
ping walls  tell  if  they  had  tongues.  The  damp  sea-air 
collects  in  the  the  roofs  of  all  of  them,  and  falls,  year 
after  year,  with  a  steady,  unceasing  drip,  drip,  drip,  to 
the  paved  floor.  This  water  is  charged  heavily  with 
lime,  and  stalactites,  three  and  four  feet  in  length,  hang 
from  the  ceiling,  like  slender  icicles,  by  thousands.  On 
the  cold  stone  floor  the  dropping  water  forms  large  but- 
tons of  fine  lime  deposits,  which  give  it  the  appearance 
at  a  casual  glance,  of  having  been  laid  in  fancy  mosaic. 
Remember  that  Vera  Cruz  is  worse  cursed  with  yellow 
fever,  or  vomito  and  malarious  diseases  of  all  kinds, 


500   "  WHO  ENTERS  HEBE  LEAVES  HOPE  BEHIND." 

than  any  other  place  on  earth,  that  the  climate  is  fear- 
fully hot  and  damp,  that  the  harbor  outside  the  castle 
swarms  with  sharks  which  make  the  attempt  to  swim 
from  thence  to  the  shore  certain  death,  in  case  a  prison- 
er should  by  any  chance  escape  from  his  cell,  and  you 
can  form  some  idea  of  what  must  be  the  condition, 
mental  and  physical,  of  the  prisoners  of  the  castle  of 
San  Juan  de  Ulloa.  I  was  not  surprised  when  I  saw 
by  the  light  of  the  flashing  torches  of  our  guides,  high 
up  on  the  ceiling  of  one  of  these  dens  of  horrors,  rudely 
scrawled  with  charcoal,  evidently  in  the  darkness  and 
through  the  sense  of  feeling  alone,  by  some  prisoner 
mounted  on  the  shoulders  of  his  companions,  the  fa- 
miliar quotation  from  Dante : 

"Who  enters  here  leaves  hope  behind." 

The  inscription  is  in  Spanish  and  without  date,  but 
in  an  adjoining  room  I  saw  the  lion  of  Spain  drawn  in 
the  same  manner  on  the  wall,  with  the  date  beneath, 
1835,  and  from  comparison  judged  the  first  to  be  the 
oldest. 

The  cells  or  dungeons  occupied  by  the  prisoners  at 
the  present  time,  are  the  most  comfortable — or  rather 
the  least  noisome  and  horrible — of  any  in  the  fortress  ; 
but  they  are  fearful,  nevertheless.  There  was  a  report 
in  the  city  that  two  prisoners  had  been  shot  in  the  cas- 
tle just  before  our  visit,  but  the  commandant  assured 
us  that  such  was  not  the  case,  as  no  executions  had 
taken  place  there  for  some  months.  I  saw  nothing  to 
indicate  that  the  prisoners  were  treated  with  any  un- 
called for  severity  or  cruelty  by  those  in  command  there 
now ;  and,  on  the  contrary,  I  believe  that  all  that  the 


THE    FATE    OF    GENEKAL    CASTILLO.  501 

arrangement  of  the  place  will  admit  of,  is  done  ^o  miti- 
gate the  horrors  of  their  situation.  I  was  told  that  at 
certain  hours,  those  not  guilty  of  attempting  to  break 
their  parole,  are  allowed  to  promenade  on  the  roof  for  a 
specified  time  daily,  and  such  other  indulgences  as  are 
possible  are  granted  them. 

Among  the  prisoners  is  General  Castillo,  who  was 
second  in  command  under  Miramon  in  the  expedition 
sent  out  from  Queretaro  by  Maximilian  to  capture  Presi- 
dent Juarez,  at  Zacatecas.  This  expedition  came  very 
near  accomplishing  its  object,  but  the  fortunate  inter- 
vention of  a  few  American  sharp-shooters,  who  held  the 
imperialist  advance  force  in  check  until  Escobedo  ar- 
rived and  routed  them,  saved  the  President,  and  turned 
the  tide  of  war  back  towards  Queretaro,  where  Mira- 
inon  arrived  with  but  a  handful  of  men  left,  out  of  all 
the  splendid  force  with  which  he  had  started  out  in  the 
full  flush  of  hope  and  confidence  of  victory. 

Castillo  gave  the  Republic  much  trouble,  and  when, 
at  last  captured  and  sentenced  to  ten  years  banishment 
to  Yucatan,  as  an  alternative  for  death,  foolishly  and 
wickedly  broke  his  parole,  and  returned  to  Mexico  a 
month  afterwards,  only  to  be  re-captured  and-  sent  to 
serve  out  his  ten  years  in  San  Juan  de  Ulloa.  He  had 
been  there  a  year,  and  was  fast  succumbing  to  the 
deadly  unhealthiness  of  the  place  and  the  hopelessness 
of  his  position. 

While  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  I  was  approached  by 
parties  who  desired  me  to  say  a  word  in  his  behalf  to 
members  of  the  Government,  and  to  carry  him  a  mes- 
sage when  I  visited  San  Juan  de  Ulloa ;  but  as  I  was 
situated,  I  felt  that  it  would  be  wholly  out  of  place  for 
me  to  do  so,  and  would  have  nothing  to  do  with  it.  I 


502  MEMENTOES   OF   THE   LAST   INVASION. 

learned  after  our  visit,  however,  that  one  of  my  com- 
panions, a  young,  kind-hearted  and  sympathetic  girl, 
had  promised  the  General's  wife,  that  if  she  had  an  op- 
portunity she  would  give  him  the  message  of  love  and 
hope — love  warm  and  true  indeed,  but  hope,  I  fear, 
only  delusive  and  empty — from  her. 

While  we  were  in  the  castle  the  young  lady  went 
past  his  window  near  enough  to  speak  to  him.  He  was 
standing  by  the  bars,  and  looking  out,  but  the  moment 
he  saw  us  he  turned  away  and  concealed  himself  from 
our  sight.  I  caught  but  a  momentary  glimpse  of  his 
blanched  and  haggard  face,  but  that  was  quite  enough. 
When  I  learned  all  the  facts  I  was  quite  glad  that  the 
message  was  not  delivered,  under  the  circumstances, 
but  I  could  not  fail  to  honor  the  young  girl  for  her 
sympathy  and  kindness  of  heart,  however  much  it 
might  have  been  impolitic  and  misdirected. 

From  the  inner  castle,  we  walked  out  upon  the  beach 
outside  the  eastern  wall,  and  there  in  a  small  patch  of 
cane-brake,  saw  the  monument  erected  in  memory  of 
"the  French  who  fell  in  the  expedition  to  Mexico,  in 
1838-9."  The  monument  is  still  perfect,  but  I  saw 
several  skulls  and  other  human  bones  scattered  all 
around  it,  and  presume  that  the  invaders  have  not  been 
permitted  to  rest  in  peace,  even  in  the  silence  of  their 
lonely  graves  on  the  shore  of  the  land  they  came  to 
conquer. 

The  French,  in  the  invasion  which  culminated  in  the 
"Empire,"  brought  a  large  number  of  small  steam 
launches  of  iron,  for  use  in  the  harbor  of  Vera  Cruz 
and  vicinity.  These  are  lying  wrecked,  with  their  bot- 
toms stove  in  and  machinery  removed  or  ruined,  and 
rapidly  wasting  away,  all  around  the  eastern  side  of  the 


MATERIAL   FOE   PLOUGHSHARES.  503 

castle.  They  have  been  used  in  some  places  to  make  a 
breakwater,  with  the  reef  in  which  the  castle  is  built, 
and  are  all  now  utterly  worthless  save  for  old  iron ; 
they  will  soon  be  worthless  even  for  that  purpose. 
Many  old  Spanish  guns  of  the  finest  metal,  thrown  into 
the  sea  years  ago,  are  still  lying  in  the  sliallow  water 
around  the  castle,  and  might  be  converted  into  plough- 
shares and  pruning-hooks  to  the  benefit  of  the  country, 
but  probably  never  will  be. 

I  have  spoken  more  freely  of  the  castle  of  San  Juan 
de  Ulloa,  and  what  I  saw  there,  from  the  fact  that  I 
visited  it  independent  of  Mr.  Seward,  who  did  not  go 
over  until  some  days  later ;  but  it  is  not  a  pleasant  sub- 
ject to  me  under  any  circumstances.  I  am  heartily  glad 
that  I  went  there,  and  thankful  for  the  attention  and 
courtesy  which  enabled  me  to  inspect  it  throughout, 
but  I  am  glad  that  I  shall  not  look  upon  it,  nor  on  its 
like,  again. 

In  every  life  there  is  a  question  unanswered,  a  doubt 
unsolved,  a  mystery  unexplained,  which  becomes  more 
and  more  a  subject  of  irritation  and  annoyance  as  age 
progresses.  A  positive  insult  may  be  forgiven,  and 
time  cicatrizes  the  wound  inflicted  by  the  fang  of  slan- 
der, or  the  physical  assassin's  weapon.  But  the  doubt 
is  worse  than  the  reality. 

What  old  bachelor,  tottering  down  the  hill  of  life 
alone,  would  not  feel  a  sense  of  inexpressible  relief, 
could  he  but  know,  to  a  certainty,  that  Jane  Smith,  on 
whom  he  was  so  spooney  at  twenty-one,  would  have 
refused  him,  out  and  out,  had  he  dared  to  ask  her  the 
momentous  question?  He  did  not  ask  the-  question, 
and  to  day  is  in  doubt  whether,  after  all,  she  might  not 
have  said  yes,  instead  of  no,  and  so  changed  the  whole 


504 


WHAT    TROUBLES    THE    AUTHOR. 


tenor  of  his  life  and  hers.  It  is  that  which  worries  him 
worst  of  all,  and  which  will  kill  him  in  the  end. 

Now-shall  I  confess  it  ? — a  double  doubt,  a  duplicate 
question,  a  Siamese- twin  mystery — as  it  were, — will 
haunt  me  like  a  double-team  of  nightmares,  while  mem- 
ory lives  within  me.  As  I  leave  the  shores  of  Mexico, 
I  carry  away  with  me  many  a  pleasant  recollection  on 
which  I  shall  dwell  with  satisfaction  in  after  years  ;  but 
there  is  a  lurking  bitter  in  my  cup  of  bliss ;  a  sharp 
set  thorn — as  it  were, — close  under  the  rose  of  my  hap- 
piness. Here  is  where  my  doubts  come  in. 

As  we  journeyed  one  day  through  the  mountains  of 
Jalisco,  we  saw  a  son  of  the   soil, — in  scanty  raiment 
clad — with  unkempt  hair  and  dilapidated  sombrero- 
setting  off  a  face  which   still  bore  the  stamp  of  the 
grand  pride  of  the  haughty  race  of  conquering  Castile, 

—earnestly 
engaged  in 
the  hum- 
ble occu- 
pation of 
driving  a 
pig  to  mar- 
ket. He 
had  las- 
soed  the 
pig  by  the 
hind  leg, 
and  was 

endeavoring  to  make  him  keep  the  track  by  jerking  the 
rieta  with  his  left  hand,  while  he  encouraged  him  to 
advance  by  the  vigorous  application  of  a  cornstalk  to 
his  hinder  parts  with  his  right. 


THE  LLNE  OP  BEAUTY. 


THE    RANCHEKO    AND    HIS   PIG.  505 

The  pig  thus  urged,  persisted  in  traveling,  mainly 
with  the  two  legs  on  one  side,  which  naturally  caused 
him  to  move  in  a  circle,  instead  of  advancing  in  a  di- 
rect line.  As  the  circle  grew  neither  larger  nor  smaller 
as  the  day  wore  on,  it  was  evident  that  neither  man 
nor  beast  got  nearer  home  or  nearer  market.  It  never  ap- 
peared to  occur  to  the  man  that  if  he  would  change  the 
rieta  and  the  cornstalk  from  hand  to  hand  occasionally, 
the  pig  might  be  induced  to  change  his  tactics  also,  and 
adopt  the  line  of  practical  advance  and  progress,  in  place 
of  the  line  of  beauty,  which  leads  us,  practically,  nowhere, 
after  all.  The  chances  are  that  hunger,  or  the  desire 
for  "  sleep,  tired  nature's  sweet  restorer  "  etc.,  in  the  full- 
ness of  time  induced  a  change  of  tactics  on  the  part  of 
one  or  the  other  ;  but  which  ?  Did  the  endurance  of  the 
man  equal  his  attachment  to  "  el  cosas  del  pals "  and 
prove  too  much  for  the  pig  ?  or  did  the  pig's  proverbial 
obstinacy  wear  out  the  man  ?  or  did  each  hold  his  own, 
and  are  they  both  destined  to  walk  around  and  around 
on  that  lonely  hillside  as  we  left  them,  through  the  end- 
less cycles  of  eternity  ?  I  ought  to  have  staid  and  seen 
it  out ;  but  an  aching  void  within  me  urged  me  on,  and 
I  did  not ;  I  wish  I  had  let  it  ache  ! 

The  other  doubt  is  sadder,  and  more  painful  still.  As 
we  went  down  by  rail  from  Paso  del  Macho  to  Vera 
Cruz,  we  looked  from  the  window  of  what  had  been 
Maximilian's  imperial  car,  upon  a  scene  by  the  roadside 
which  struck  me  nearer  to  the  heart,  and  filled  my  soul 
with  sadness  and  doubt  more  utterly  unfathomable. 

A  poor,  old  steed — who  may  have  borne  Santa  Anna 
and  his  fortunes  in  his  day,  or  better  served  the  world 
by  drawing  a  dump-cart  for  a  grading  party  on  the  rail- 
road track — had  been  turned  out  to  die.  The  zapilotes 


506 


THE    HORSE    AND   THE    ZAPILOTES. 


THE  HORSE  AND  THE  ZAPILOTES. 


— which  are  among  the  institutions  of  the  country, — 

watchin  g 
from  afar, 
saw 
de  a  t  h '  s 
signal  in 
his  gla- 
zing eye, 
and 
wheeli  n  g 
E  down 
f  r  o  *m 
their  airy 
heights, 
came  trooping  from  all  directions  to  the  coming  feast. 

As  each  detachment  arrived  they  settled  on  the 
ground  in  successive  circles  around  the  horse,  gave  one 
searching  look  to  make  sure  that  they  had  made  no 
mistake  as  to  the  ultimate  result,  then  drew  in  their 
heads,  humped  their  shoulders,  and  went  to  sleep,  sat- 
isfied that  in  Heaven's  own  time,  grim  death  would 
do  his  perfect  work,  when  they  would  pick  the  bones 
of  the  animal  before  them  as  clean  as  a  squirrel  picks 
the  kernel  out  of  a  nut.  They  could  have  finished  him 
there  and  then  with  a  little  effort ;  but  that  politeness 
which  characterizes  every  inhabitant  of  tropical  Amer- 
ica, forbade  such  unseemly  haste,  and  why  work  for 
what  would  come  without  labor  if  they  but  waited  ? 

So  murmuring " Manana"  "poco  tiempo"  and  " Salle 
luego?  as  is  the  custom  of  the  country,  they  dropped 
off,  one  by  one,  to  sleep  and  pleasant  dreams.  The 
moribund  knew  as  well  as  we  did  what  they  came  for, 
and  read  his  fate  in  their  skinny,  expressionless  faces, 


WHICH    WHIPPED  ?  507 

but  he  was  game  to  the  last,  and  no  rule  of  politeness 
bade  him  to  hurry  up  with  his  dying ;  so  he  took  his 
time  for  it,  and  showed  them,  unmistakably,  by  his  looks 
that  he  regarded  their  presence  as — to  some  extent — ill- 
timed  and  indelicate,  and  partaking  of  the  character  of 
undue  familiarity. 

They  were  engaged  in  this  nice  little  game  of  "  freeze 
out,  "  as  we  left  the  station  and  passed  out  of  sight. 
But  who  won?  Did  the  zapilotes  and  death  beat  the 
horse  at  last  ?  or  did  he  starve  them  all  while  they 
waited  ?  or  are  they  still  waiting  and  watching,  he  liv- 
ing and  hoping,  and  the  game  bound  to  go  on  to  the 
end  of  time  ?  Look  upon  this  picture,  and  then  on  that, 
and  tell  me  what  are  the  sufferings  of  common  human- 
ity to  mine  ! 

Reader :  I  have  told  you  the  secret  of  my  blighted 
life.  You  will  now  know  why  my  forehead  is  prema- 
turely wrinkled,  my  hair  turned  grey  before  my  time, 
and  a  tendency  to  grow  hump-shouldered  is  developing 
in  my  frame,  when  you  meet  me  on  Broadway  or  Mont- 
gomery street.  A  blighted  being,  harassed  with  doubts 
which  may  never  be  solved,  I  go  forth  from  the  land 
where  Cortez  fought  and  conquered,  and  Montezuma 
died. 

Let  the  riddle  of  the  Sphynx  go  unread,  the  story  of 
the  Lost  Tribes  untold,  the  problem  of  the  squaring  of 
the  circle  unsolved ;  they  are  but  as  vanity  and  vexa- 
tion of  spirit  to  me;  but  would  you  save  my  grey 
hairs  from  going  down  in  sorrow  to  the  grave,  skip  all 
the  rest,  and  come  down  to  the  ranchero  and  the  pig, 
the  horse  and  the  zapilotes, — tell  me  who  whipped,  and 
oh,  tell  me  quickly! 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

X 

THE  LAST  WE  SAW  OF  MEXICO. 

rrVHOUGH  we  had  still  to  touch  at  a  distant  Mexican 
-*-  port — that  of  Sisal  in  Yucatan, — at  Vera  Cruz,  our 
long  trans-continental  trip  through  tropical  Mexico,  was 
practically  over.  The  story  of  that  journey  is  told,  but 
its  results  and  consequences — serious  or  otherwise  for 
the  Republic  of  Mexico  and  the  Juarez  Administration 
—remain  to  be  developed  in  the  future.  So  much 
idle  speculation  as  to  the  object  and  purport  of  this 
visit  of  Mr.  Seward  to  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  has 
been  indulged  in  by  the  people  and  press  of  both  na- 
tions, and  so  many  efforts  made  to  give  it  a  false  politi- 
cal significance  and  importance,  that  I  have  thought  it 
best  to  put  on  record  all  the  speeches  and  letters  made 
and  written  by  Mr.  Seward  in  Mexico,  that  the  world 
might  see  for  itself,  just  what  actually  passed  between 
him  and  the  citizens  and  officials  of-  Mexico. 

To  complete  the  work,  I  asked  permission  to  copy,  ver- 
batim, the  farewell  letters  written  by  Mr.  Seward  as 
we  were  preparing  to  go  on  board  the  steamer  at  Vera 
Cruz,  to  the  President  and  the  leading  members  of  his 
Cabinet,  Mrs.  Juarez,  and  the  Commissioner,  Seuor  Bos- 
sero,  who  was  sent  out  to  Guadalajara  by  the  Mexican 
Government,  to  meet  the  party,  and  provide  for  our 
comfort  and  enjoyment  on  our  journey  through  the 
Republic. 


MB.  SE WARD'S  FAREWELL  LETTERS.  509 

VEKA  CRUZ,  January  8th.,  1870. 

MY  DEAR  SIR  : — I  have  at  last  arrived  at  this  port,  after  a  very 
interesting  journey  from  the  Capital,  which  has  afforded  me  op- 
portunities to  study  the  structure,  resources  and  prospects  of 
the  States  of  Puebla,  Tlaxcala,  and  Yera  Cruz,  not  to  speak  of 
the  antiquities  of  Cholulu,  and  the  marvelous  scenery  of  the 
Cumbres  of  Orizaba. 

It  is  with  the  greatest  satisfaction  that  I  find  that  the  only 
popular  discontents  existing  in  the  Republic  are  merely  local 
in  their  character,  and  have  no  connection  with  the  general  con- 
duct of  national  affairs. 

These  local  difficulties  will  find  a  solution  in  the  states  where 
they  occur,  if  the  Federal  Administration  shall  be  allowed  to 
treat  them  with  impartiality  and  moderation. 

It  remains  for  me,  only,  to  thank  the  President  once  more  for 
the  distinguished  consideration  and  hospitality  which  I  have 
received  at  his  hands  and  the  hands  of  the  Mexican  People. 
Renewing  at  the  same  time  the  expression  of  my  most  fervent 
wishes  for  the  prosperity  and  happiness  of  the  Mexican  Repub- 
lic, I  take  leave  of  the  President  and  his  distinguished  associates, 
with  the  most  profound  respect  and  affectionate  esteem. 

WILLIAM  II.  SEWARD. 
SENOR  DON  S.  LERDO  DE  TEJADA,  &c.,  &c.3  &c.     Mexico. 


YERA  CRUZ,  January  8th.,  1870. 

MY  DEAR  MR.  LERDO  : — In  leaving  Mexico  after  the  visit 
which  you  have  done  so  much  to  distinguish,  and  to  render 
pleasant  and  instructive,  I  shall  not  fail  to  cherish  the  hope  that 
the  course  of  political  affairs  in  Mexico,  may  allow  you,  at  no 
distant  day,  to  come  to  the  United  States,  and  renew  with  me 
there  the  studies  which  will  be  so  useful  to  you  hereafter,  in  a 
career,  which  I  foresee  is  to  be  equally  honorable  to  yourself 
and  important  to  the  Republican  cause  in  America.  Accept 
my  warmest  and  most  sincere  thanks  for  all  the  honors  arid 


510  MR.  SEWARD'S  FAREWELL  LETTERS. 

kindness  you  have  bestowed  upon  me,  and  remember  me  always 
as  a  faithful  and  confiding  friend. 

WILLIAM  II.  SEWARD. 

SENOR  LERDO  DE  TEJADA,  &c.,  &c.,  &c.     Mexico. 


VERA  CRUZ,  January,  8th.,  1870. 

MY  DEAR  MRS.  JUAREZ  : — Providence  is  not  altogether  capri- 
cious even  in  the  direction  of  political  events.  It  was  a  great 
kindness  to  me,  that  permitted  me  to  see  you  and  know  you  in 
your  exile  to  the  United  States.  But  it  is  a  crowning  felicity, 
that  after  having  done  so  I  have  been  allowed  to  be  your  guest, 
after  your  happy  restoration  to  your  family,  friends,  and  exalted 
position  in  Mexico.  It  is  almost  too  much  to  hope  that  I  may 
be  able  to  receive  you,  your  husband  and  friends,  at  my  own 
house  in  the  United  States;  still  I  will  not  relinquish  that 
fond  expectation.  Meantime,  and  in  any  event,  I  pray  to  be 
remembered  as  among  the  friends  who  can  be  faithful  and  grate- 
ful to  you,  as  long  as  I  live. 

WILLIAM  II.  SEWAED. 
LA  SENORA  JUAREZ,  &c.,  &c.,  &c.     Mexico. 


YERA  CRUZ,  January  8th.,  1870. 

MY  DEAR  MR.  ROMERO  : — It  is  not  to  renew  my  grateful 
acknowledgments  that  I  write  this  parting  letter,  so  much  as  it 
is  to  assure  you  of  my  profound  sympathy  with  you,  in  your 
arduous  labors  for  the  restoration  of  law,  order,  prosperity,  and 
prestige  in  Mexico. 

I  feel  quite  hopeful  that  these  labors  will  be  appreciated  by 
the  people  and  Government  of  Mexico,  soon  ;  but  even  if  this* 
should  fail  to  be  the  case,  talents,  energy,  and  loyalty  like  yours 
will  not  be  suppressed.  You  will  in  that  case,  only  rise  to 
higher  usefulness  and  honors  hereafter. 

With  most  grateful  and  affectionate  remembrance,  to  Mrs. 


MR.  SE WARD'S  FAREWELL  LETTERS.  511 

Romero,  her  mother,  and  your  sister,  and  sincere  regrets  that  I 
am  not  allowed  their  society  with  yours  any  longer,  I  am,  my 
dear  Mr.  Romero,  forever  your  faithful  and  devoted  friend. 

WILLIAM  H.  SEWARD. 
SENOR  DON  MATIAS  ROMEKO,  &c.,  &c.,  &c.    Mexico. 


VERA  CRUZ,  January  8th.,  1870.   - 

MY  DEAR  PRESIDENT  : — I  have  thought  it  most  becoming,  to 
address  my  parting  words  to  you  through  the  office  of  the  Min- 
ister of  Relations.  But  I  could  not  think  of  leaving  the  coun- 
try without  making  a  more  direct  and  unstudied  acknowledg- 
ment of  my  profound  sense  of  obligation  to  you,  for  the  exag- 
gerated attentions  and  hospitality  with  which  you  have  received 
myself  and  family  during  our  delightful  sojourn  in  Mexico.  I 
feel  sure,  that  I  am  safe  in  congratulating  you  upon  the  finality 
of  peace  and  regeneration,  in  the  great  country  which  you  have 
rescued  from  anarchy  and  foreign  conquest. 

Accept,  my  dear  Mr.  President,  my  fervent  wishes,  that  you 
may  enjoy  fullness  of  years,  and  the  choicest  blessings  of  Prov- 
idence. 

Your  most  obliged  and  most  obedient  friend  and  servant. 

WILLIAM  II.  SEWARD. 
DON  BENITO  JUAREZ,  President,  &c.,  &c.,  &c.     Mexico. 


YERA  CRUZ,  January  10,  1870. 

MY  DEAR  MR.  BOSSERO  : — The  hour  of  my  departure  from 
Mexico  is  so  entirely  filled  with  recollections  of  kindnesses 
received  during  my  stay  there,  as  to  exclude  even  the  thought 
of  the  welcoine  that  I  may  hope  to  receive  from  my  fam- 
ily and  friends  in  the  United  States.  In  everything  that  has 
concerned  me,  the  Mexican  Government  has  not  only  mani- 
fested an  unexampled  sentiment  of  national  hospitality,  but 
they  have  practised  in  all  things,  a  delicacy  which  only  gen- 


512      VOYAGE  FROM  VEEA  CRUZ  TO  YUCATAN. 

erous  minds  can  justly  appreciate.  I  was  not  slow  in  perceiv- 
ing that  it  was  that  delicacy  which  was  the  motive  for  your 
commission  to  meet  me  at  Guadalajara,  and  attend  me  to 
the  hour  of  embarkation.  I  am  unable  to  express  the  deep 
sense  I  feel  for  cares  and  attentions,  which  have  not  merely  saved 
me  from  every  danger  and  discomfort,  but  which  have  made 
the  journey  of  my  family  and  friends,  a  constant  instruction  and 
continual  pleasure.  I  pray  you  to  accept  my  most  grateful 
acknowledgments,  with  affectionate  wishes  for  your  continued 
welfare  and  the  health  and  happiness  of  your  children.  You 
will  hear  from  me,  my  dear  Mr.  Bossero,  on  my  arrival  at  New 
York,  and  I  shall  hope  on  that  occasion,  that  I  am  not  forgot- 
ten by  you.  I  am,  my  Dear  Sir,  very  truly  your  friend. 

WILLIAM  H.  SEWAKD. 


At  4  p.  M.  on  Tuesday,  January  llth.,  1870,  we  were 
all  on  board  the  Cleopatra,  and  she  was  steaming  out 
of  the  harbor  of  Vera  Cruz,  past  the  Castle  of  San 
Juan  de  Ulloa,  and  the  great  coral  reefs  beyond  it,  into 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  At  sunset,  all  on  board  subject 
to  seasickness,  were  down  with  it ;  the  writer  among 
the  number,  of  course.  All  next  day  we  were  out  of 
sight  of  land  with  a  rough  sea.  The  morning  of  the 
13th  dawning  clear  and  beautiful,  revealed  to  us  the 
low  sandy  shores  of  Yucatan  along  the  southern  hori- 
zon, and  at  noon  we  came  to  anchor  off  Sisal,  in  the 
open  roadstead  which  serves  for  a  harbor,  save  in  case 
of  a  norther  blowing,  when  there  is  no  harbor  at  all. 

The  sea  being  rough  Mr.  Seward  decided  not  to  go 
on  shore,  though  he  was  strongly  tempted  to  do  so  and 
spend  the  next  twenty  days  in  visiting  the  ancient 
Spanish  city  of  Merida,  the  mysterious  ruins  of  Palen- 
que,  the  logwood  forests  of  Campeche,  and  other  points 
of  interest  on  the  peninsula. 


ARRIVAL    AT    SISAL.  513 

Worn  out  with  seasickness,  and  feverish  from  mias- 
ma breathed  at  Vera  Cruz,  I  determined  to  go  ashore, 
and  put  off  in  a  small  boat  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brennan 
and  others,  to  spend  the  night  on  the  land.  We  were 
no  sooner  on  shore  than  a  committee  called  to  learn 
what  Mr.  Seward's  intentions  were,  and  tender  him  the 
hospitalities  of  Sisal  and  of  Yucatan,  if  he  would 
land  and  accept  them.  Being  told  that  he  had  decided 
not  to  land,  they  telegraphed  at  once  to  Merida  to 
inform  the  Governor,  and  tendered  me  the  use  of  the 
house  provided  for  him  in  Sisal,  for  the  little  party  who 
had  come  with  me. 

Sisal  has  not  much  to  see  of  special  interest.  The 
houses  are  all  palm  leaf-thatched,  with  thick  stone  walls, 
rude,  old-fashioned  wooden  doors,  and  glassless  win- 
dows. The  authorities  showed  us  every  possible  atten- 
tion, and  we  inspected  what  there  was  to  be  seen,  with 
interest.  The  old  castle  or  "  Castillo," — erected  thre6 
centuries  ago  by  the  Spaniards, — is  garrisoned  by  a 
company  of  regular  troops  of  the  Army  of  Mexico. 

Yucatan  is  not  the  most  devotedly  loyal  State  of 
the  Republic,  and  the  Government  is  obliged  to  keep  a 
strong  force  there  to  protect  its  interests,  and  guard 
against  pronuncianientoes  and  revolutions.  The  wild 
Indians  of  the  interior  are  also  troublesome,  being  sup- 
plied with  arms  and  ammunition — as  the  inhabitants  of 
Merida  justly  complain — by  the  English  traders  and. 
authorities  in  Honduras,  and  the  contemptible  "  King- 
dom of  Mosquitia,"  whose  orang-outang  king  is  "  the 
very  good  friend  and  ally  of  Her  Majesty  the  Queen, 
of  Great  Britain,  etc.,  etc."  Then,  more  than  half  of 
the — so  called — civilized  Indians  of  Yucatan,  do  not, 
submit  to  be  governed  by  the  Federal  or  State  author- 
33 


514  YUCATAN ITS    PEOPLE   AND    SPECIALITIES. 

ities :  so  that  the  peninsular  can  hardly  be  called  a  first 
class,  quiet  place  to  live  in.  Nevertheless,  the  roads  are 
good,  the  country  is  improving,  and  the  State  has  more 
to  show  in  the  way  of  exports — the  product  of  her  soil 
—than  any  other  in  the  Republic. 

The  annual  receipts  of  the  Custom-House  at  Sisal, 
amount  to  four  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and  the  ex- 
port of  hemp — the  best  article  of  the  kind  now  pro- 
duced in  the  world — amounted  in  1869  to  eighteen 
thousand  bales  of  four  hundred  pounds  each.  This 
hemp  is  mainly  raised  around  Merida,  and  the  industry 
—which  is  a  new  one — is  fast  extending,  and  bringing 
prosperity  and  happiness  to  the  State.  Sisal  has  a  pop- 
ulation of  all  colors,  ages,  sexes  and  conditions,  of  one 
thousand,  all  told.  A  great  swamp  and  laguna  extends 
miles  up  into  the  interior,  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  and 
the  place  is  not  specially  noted  for  its  salubrity. 

Mr.  Brennan  and  my  old  San  Francisco  friend,  Lever, 
— who  was  a  captain  in  the  Volunteers  during  our  civil 
war,  and  afterwards  a  member  of  the  famous  "  Ameri- 
can Legion  of  Honor,"  and  a  Lieutenant  Colonel  in  the 
Mexican  Army, — now  U.  S.  Mail  Agent  on  the  Cleopa- 
tra, went  out  on  the  laguna  shooting  ducks,  ibises, 
flamingoes  and— Heaven  knows  what  not, — and  had  a  glo- 
rious time,  returning  well  laden  with  spoils, — all  of 
which  were  spoiled  by  the  heat  of  the  weather,  next 
morning. 

Groves  of  tall,  graceful  cocoa-palms,  and  rank  luxu- 
riant cane-brakes,  give  a  peculiar  tropical  charm  to  the 
place  as  seen  from  the  harbor.  We  saw  but  one  car- 
riage in  the  place.  It  was  a  private  coach,  with  wheels 
and  bed  as  heavy  as  that  of  one  of  our  great  lumber 
wagons,  and  had  a  little  inclosed  cab-like  structure,  for 


THE    SISAL    THEATRE.  515 

two  persons,  perched  high  up  on  leathern  springs  in  the 
centre.  It  was  drawn  by  three  little  mules  harnessed 
all  abreast,  one  in  the  shafts,  and  one  on  each  side ;  it 
will  be  long  ere  I  shall  look  upon  its  like  again. 

That  night  we  all  went  to  the  Sisal  theatre.  It  is  a 
funny  affair.  The  stage  was  under  a  palm  leaf-thatched 
shed,  open  on  one  side,  and  the  scenery  was  perma- 
nently fixed,  admitting  of  no  changing.  The  audience 
sat  in  a  large  open  yard,  with  the  starry  Heavens  above 
them  for  a  roof,  and  a  grove  of  cocoa  palm  trees  in  full 
verdure  for  a  back  ground.  It  is  doubtless  the  tallest 
theatre  in  the  world  at  this  time,  the  best  ventilated, 
and  the  safest  in  case  of  a  fire  or  an  earthquake. 

What  the  play  was  I  could  not  find  out.  The  com- 
pany was  composed  of  amateurs,  and  the  performance 
for  the  benefit  of  some  charity  which  I  hope  deserved 
it.  The  theatre  was  filled  to  repletion,  the  mosquitoes 
occupying  all  the  space  not  required  by  the  audience  of 
some  five  hundred  people.  The  principal  actor  was 
the  Prefecto  Politico  of  the  town,  a  fine,  fleshy,  old 
gentleman,  who,  despite  the  loss  of  one  eye,  played  his 
part  right  well.  I  made  his  acquaintance,  and  found 
him  a  true  gentleman,  and  very  pleasant  company  in- 
deed. Admission  clos  rials,  and  un  rial  extra  for  a 
chair — total,  thirty-seven  and  one  half  cents.  The  scene 
was  novel  and  interesting,  and  I  shall  not  soon  forget  that 
evening's  entertainment  at  the  theatre,  by  the  side  of  the 
restless,  moaning  sea,  on  the  wild,  lone  shore  of  Yu- 
catan. 

That  evening  a  party  of  officials  and  leading  citizens 
left  Merida,  on  receipt  of  the  telegram  announcing  Mr. 
Seward's  arrival,  and  come  down  to  the  coast  before 
midnight,  having  galloped  their  horses  all  the  way. 


510  VISITORS    FROM    MERIDA. 

At  ten  A.  M.  Friday,  January  14th.,  I  returned  on 
board  the  Cleopafra,  with  the  Collector  of  the  Port  of 
Sisal,  the  Captain  of  the  Port,  the  2nd  Captain  of  the 
Port,  the  Prefecto  Politico  and  other  local  officers,  the 
American  Consul  at  Merida,  Senor  Perucho,  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Governor  of  Yucatan,  Seiior  Rivos,  an  old 
and  highly  intelligent  merchant  of  Merida,  and  others^ 
and  the  last  official  presentation  and  reception  of  Mr. 
Seward  in  Mexico  took  place. 

After  an  hours  conversation  on  political  subjects,  the 
Secretary  handed  Mr.  Seward  a  letter  of  which  the  fol- 
lowing is  a  translation : 

The  Governor  of  the  State  of  Yucatan, 

To  the  illustrious  American,  William  H.  Seward. 

Mr.  Seward  : — I  trust  that  you  have  been  pleased  with  the 
reception  you  have  received  in  every  part  of  the  Republic  which 
you  have  visited. 

You  remain  but  a  short  time  on  the  shores  of  our  State,  which 
are  distant  from  its  capital,  but  I  hasten  in  the  name  of  its  peo- 
ple to  cordially  welcome  you,  and  to  pray  you  to  accept  the 
assurance  of  that  sympathy  which  all  lovers  of  liberty  must  feel 
for  men  of  genius  and  of  heart. 

You,  Mr.  Seward,  are  a  man  of  eminent  genius,  for  you  have 
to  conduct  with  glory  and  with  skill,  the  public  affairs  of  your 
country.  You  are  a  man  of  heart  for  you  have  liberated  the 
slaves,  uniting  in  that  great  work  with  your  fellow  countryman, 
Lincoln,  whose  martyr  memory  is  blessed  to-day  by  all  mankind. 

Regretting  that  we  shall  not  have  the  honor  of  a  visit  from 
you  at  this  capital,  I  tender  you  my  best  wishes  for  a  safe  and 
pleasant  voyage  to  your  native  land. 

M.  CIREROL. 
MERIDA,  YUCATAN,  January  13th.,  1870. 

The  party  then  took  leave  of  Mr.  Seward  in  the  most 
affectionate  manner,  and  his  visit  to  Mexico  was  ended. 


OUR   LAST   VIEW    OF   MEXICO.  517 

That  evening  our  steamer  sailed  away  for  Havana, 
and  as  the  sun  went  down  in  the  west  I  sat  on  the 
deck  smoking  my  last  cigarrito,  wrapped  in  smoke  and 
thought,  and  saw  the  palm-fringed  shore  of  Mexico 
slowly  sink  down  in  the  horizon  and  fade  away  from 
sight.  From  sight,  but  not  from  memory !  Beautiful, 
unfortunate  Mexico ;  in  all  my  after  years,  what  visions 
of  thee  and  thine  will  haunt  me  day  and  night ! 

Again  shall  I  see  the  gay  flotilla  moving  up  the  La- 
guna  de  Cayutlan,  the  wooded  hills  and  tropical  valley 
of  La  Calera;  Colima — the  beloved  of  the  sun — with 
her  gardens,  ruins,  and  palm  groves,  and  her  great  smo- 
king volcano  for  a  back  ground,  will  be  before  me. 
Again  shall  I  see  the  gallant  cavalcade  and  the  flashing 
arms  of  the  Guard  of  Jalisco,  filing  through  the  great 
Barranca  de  Beltran,  or  moving  by  torchlight  over  the 
hills  of  San  Marcos.  I  shall  see  the  full,  round  moon 
rise  over  beautiful  Guadalajara,  and  hear  the  soft  love 
song  and  notes  of  the  light  guitar,  or  watch  the  beau- 
ties of  Mexico's  cities  floating  through  the  voluptuous 
mazes  of  the  danza.  Again  I  shall  see  the  blaze,  and 
listen  to  the  roar  of  the  fire-balls,  as  they  come  crash- 
ing down  into  the  dark  depths  of  the  earth,  in  the 
mines  of  Guanajuato.  Again  shall  I  tread  your  blood- 
stained battle  fields,  on  which  the  problem  of  free  gov0 
eminent  in  America  was  decided ;  again  stand  by  the 
little  mound  of  stones  and  the  three  black  crosses  which 
mark  an  epoch  in  the  world's  history,  amid  the  waving 
corn-fields  at  the  foot  of  the  lone  Gerro  de  Las  Campa- 
nas.  Again,  and  yet  again,  shall  I  tread  the  deserted 
halls  of  Chapultepec,  and  look  down  on  the  fair  valley 
and  city  of  Mexico,  and  up  to  mighty  Popocatapetl 
crowned  with  eternal  snow.  Again  shall  I  stand  where 


518  MEXICO,    ADIOS  ! 

Cortez  fought  and  Guatamozin  lost  and  died.  Still 
shall  I  see  brown  Dolores  at  the  casement  standing,  and 
Juanita  with  the  flashing  eyes,  ride  past  in  her  stately 
carriage  on  the  paseo.  I  shall  listen  to  the  wild  music 
of  the  trumpet  and  the  kettle-drum  in  Colirna,  and  the 
wilder  notes  of  the  Aztec  band  aj;  the  foot  of  the  pyr- 
amid of  Cholula,  or  stand  in  breathless  silence  absorbed 
in  the  fiery  eloquence  which  pours  like  a  flood  from  the 
lips  of  Ignacio  Altamarino  in  the  Palace  of  Mexico. 

Again  shall  I  descend  the  defiles  of  the  Cumbres  and 
dash  at  full  speed  through  the  Pass  of  Chiquihuite,  and 
walk  through  the  damp  and  dismal  dungeons  of  the 
Castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ulloa.  Your  flower-embowered 
and  blood-stained  shores  have  faded  from  my  sight,  but 
all  these  things,  and  a  thousand  other  memories — bright 
and  beautiful  in  the  main,  though  occasionally  tinged 
with  sorrow  and  with  sadness — are  mine,  and  only 
death  can  rob  me  of  them. 

Land  of  history,  romance,  flowers,  poetry,  and  song ; 
land  of  dark  and  fearful  deeds,  violence,  wrong  and  a 
terrible  past ;  land  with  a  present  mixed  and  clouded, 
in  which 

"  Men  must  die,  and  women  must  weep," 

to  atone  for  the  sins  of  those  who  came  before  them  ; 
land  with  a  bright  and  glorious  future,  in  which  all 
your  people, — educated  and  disenthralled  of  prejudice 
and  bigotry — shall  in  truth  be  "  sovereign,  free  and  in- 
dependent," and  white-winged  peace  and  prosperity 
shall  walk  hand  in  hand  through  all  your  borders, 
God  bless  thee  !  Adios ! 


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COKYBEAEE  AND  HOWSO^TS 

LIFE  AND  EPISTLES 

OF 

"TVT  T1     T^>  A   TT 
-1-%I     JL       -t^  .£2k.   1.J 

Presenting  a  vivid  picture  of  the  Great  Apostle  and  the  cir- 
cumstances and  influences  by  which  he  was  surrounded,  from 
his  Youth  up  ;  with  uiifoldings  of  his  inner  Life,  as  exhibited 
in  his  Writings,  and  abounding  in  graphic  and  scholarly  delin- 
eations of  People,  Countries,  Cities,  Natural  Scenery,  and 
Works  of  Art,  as  he  beheld  them.  With  references  and  notes 
in  the  English  language,  and  the  original  Maps  and  Engravings. 

With  an  Introduction  by 

Rev.  JAMES  McCOSH,  D.  D.,  L.  L  D., 

President  of  Princeton  College,  New  Jersey. 

An  Unabridged  Reprint  of  the  English  People's  Edition. 
This  celebrated  and  hitherto  very  expensive  English  work, 
is  now  presented  to  the  American  Public,  at  a  price  which 
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ting tribute  to  the  greatness  of  the  Great  Apostle. 

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making  a  much  larger  volume.  It  is,  in  short,  a  book  of  pecu- 
liar, interest  and  value,  faultless  in  its  character,  free  from  all 
sectarianism,  beautiful  in  its  adornments,  and  commanding  the 
admiration  of  all  intelligent  readers. 

This  matchless  Biography  of  the  greatest  of  the  Apostles,  has  already  won 
praise  from  hundreds  of  thousands  of  admiring  readers.  It  is  one  which  ought 
to  be  in  every  family.  The  type  of  this  edition  is  large  and  clear,  thereby  ren- 
dering it  peculiarly  acceptable  to  such  people  as  complain  of  the  smallness  of 
the  print  in  other  editions. — The  Churchman,  Hartford,  Conn. 

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Rev.  H.  M.  Grout,  Pastor  of  Congregational  Church,  West  Springfield,  Mass. 

This  work  was  written  by  two  of  the  most  learned  Clergymen  which  the 
Church  of  England  has  produced  in  our  day. 

The  Authors  take  up  the  one  grand  theme,  and  they  gather  matter  to  illus- 
trate it  from  every  quarter.  The  whole  history  of  the  period  and  the  state  of 
the  world  at  the  time,  have  been  made  to  throw  light  on  the  one  grand  figure 
which  is  made  to  pass  before  us. — From  the  Introduction,  by  Dr.  McCosh. 

AGENTS  WANTED.    Address 

COLUMBIAN  BOOK  CO.,  Hartfprd,  Conn. 
W.  E.  BLISS,  Toledo,  Ohio. 


GREAT      PICTORIAL      WORK, 

ARCTIC  EXPLORATIONS, 

CONTAINING   GRAPHIC   DELINEATIONS  OF 

LIFE  AMID   THE   ICE, 

THE  WONDERS  OP  THE  GREAT  POLAR  SEA,  AND  THE 
MARVELOUS  ESCAPE  OF  THE  EXPLORERS 


FROM  THE 


RELENTLESS    FROST-LAND, 

WHICH    SO    LONG    HELD    THEM    IN    ITS    GRASP. 

ILLUSTRATED  WITH   TWENTY-THREE  ELEGANT  FULL  PAGE,  AND  NEARLY  THREE  HUNDRED 
OTHER  ENGRAVINGS  ON  STEEL  AND  WOOD,  FROM  SKETCHES  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 

WITH    A    BIOGRAPHICAL    SKETCH    OF    DR.    KANE, 

BY    PEOF.     CHAKLES    W.     SHIELDS,     D.    D.,     OF    PRINCETON    COLLEGE,     N.    3. 

THIS  celebrated  work  is  published  in  One  Elegant  Octavo  Volume  of  768 
pages.  It  is  sold  by  subscription,  and  furnished  to  subscribers  at  the  follow- 
ing prices : 

In  Fine  Cloth, $4,50 

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Copies  will  be  sent  by  mail  or  express,  prepaid,  to  persons  residing  in  towns 
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-This  sublime  and  moving  narrative  will  have  a  charm  and  a  power  among  men  as  long 
as  heroism  continues  to  gain  reverence.  No  library  in  the  land  will  be  tolerably  com- 
plete >vithout  it. — New  York  Independent. 

It  is  a  wonderful  book,  and  will  be  for  future  ages  one  of  the  proudest  monuments  of 
our  native  land. — Protestant  Churchman. 

A  narrative  of  actual  fact  and  experience,  it  yet  possesses  the  fascination  of  the  most 
intensely  wrought  fiction. —  Church  Advocate. 

Few  novels  were  ever  written  that  are  so  fascinating  and  so  thrilling  as  this  unstudied 
story  of  an  endurance  that  was  heroic,  and  a  daring  that  was  sublime. — Liberal  Christian. 

We  commend  the  work  with  emphasis  and  without  qualification,  as  one  which  equally 
fascinates,  instructs,  and  kindles  the  reader.. — Morning  Star,  Dover,  N.  H. 

We  shall  never  forget  the  deep  interest,  almost  reaching  enthusiasm,  with  which  the 
public  first  read  the  romantic  and  thrilling  adventures  of  Dr.  Kane  in  the  Arctic  regions, 
a'td  a  new  edition  of  that  valuable  book  will  be  warmly  welcomed.  It  will  never  grow 
old;  it  is  too  great  a  contribution  to  science  to  be  laid  upon  the  shelf;  it  is  too  intrinsically 
interesting  in  its  well-wrought  narrative  to  become  a  thing  of  the  past,  and  the  later 
journeys  into  the  ice-regions  by  Hayes  and  others,  only  call  renewed  attention  to  th-; 
former  work  of  Dr.  Kane.  The  book  "is  beautifully  illustrated  with  steel  plates  and  new 
cuts  and  is  to  be  recommended  in  all  respects. —  Watchman  and  Reflector,  Boston. 

•  AGENTS  WANTED.    Addiess 

COLUMBIAN  BOOK  COMPANY,  Hartford,  Conn., 
Or  the  other  Publishers  of  this  Book;  see  Title  Page. 


THE  RIVER  OF  THE  WEST. 

Thirty  Tears  of  Life  and  Adventure 

IN  THE 

ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  AND  OEEGO1S. 

By  Mrs.  FRANCIS  FULLER  VICTOR. 

o 

A  History  of  the  North  Western  Slope,  with  graphic  accounti  of  the  Indian 
Tribes, the  Fur-traders,  the  Oregon  Missionaries  and  their  tragie  fate,  tht 
Emigrants,  and  Early  Times  in  Oregon.  With  events  in  the  life-time  of  a  Rocky 
Mountain  hunter,  and  Oregon  pioneer ,  and  a  full  description  of  ths  Country  on 
the  line  of  the 

NORTHERN    PACIFIC    RAILROAD, 

All  the  varied  information  which  this  book  gives  is  grouped  around  the 
personal  history  of  Joseph  L.  Meek,  one  of  those  remarkable  men  who  -be- 
came Mountaineers,  Indian  traders  and  Sentinels  on  the  outposts  of  Civiliza 
tion,  in  the  heroic  epoch  when  Oregon  was  redeemed  from  the  wilds  of  na- 
ture, to  be  come  the  home  of  Civilized  Man. 

The  reader  will  be  charmed  by  the  descriptive  portions  of  the  book,  fasci- 
nated by  the  narrative  of  thrilling  personal  adventures  and  experiences,  and 
highly  amused  by  the  ludicrous  and  humorous  scenes,  incidents,  and  anec- 
dotes with  which  the  work  abounds,  while  the  historical  events  recorded  will 
be  perused  with  intense  interest  and  gratification  by  all. 

Finely  Illustrated  with  Numerous  Engravings. 

"  The  River  of  the  West"  is  the  title  of  a  stately  volume  from  the  pen  of 
Mrs.  Francis  Fuller  Victor,  contributor  to  the  Overland  Monthly  and  other 
periodicals.  She  is  well  qualified  for  the  task  she  has  undertaken,  possess- 
ing, in  a  rare  degree,  the  investigating,  analytical  and  judicial  faculty.  Much 
— indeed,  we  might  say  most  of  her  information  is  derived  from  the  lipe  of 
those  who  were  actors  in  the  scenes  she  describes.  Of  these  her  special  pet 
and  hero  is  Joseph  L.  Meek,  whose  adventurous  career  is  graphically  sketch- 
ed. She  presents  him  to  our  wondering  gaze  as  the  Bayard  of  the  forest,  a 
man  without  fear,  if  not  without  reproach  As  drawn  by  her  partial  pen  he  is 
the  embodiment  of  all  that  is  most  heroic,  the  most  excellent,  the  most  dough- 
ty, the  most  dare-devil,  the  most  seductive  in  the  frontiersman.  His  career  is 
indeed  a  remarkable  one.***That  the  book  will  prove  popular  there  can  be  lit- 
tle doubt.  It  is  attractive  in  style,  attractive  in  method,  attractive  in  its  make 
up,  attractive  in  printing,  binding  and  illustration. — Evening  Bulletin,  San 
Francisco,  'Gal. 

It  is  crammed  with  stirring  adventure,  and  picturesque  description,  and  in- 
deed has  a  very  considerable  historical  value  as  enclosing  and  perpetuating  so 
many  remarkable  illustrations  of  a  kind  of  life  which  is  rapidly  fading  off  the 
face  of  our  country  The  artist  and  engraver  have  been  called  into  liberal 
requisition. — New  York  Independent. 

Of  the  contents  of  the  book  we  may  say  that,  containing  as  it  does,  the  life 
and  adventures  of  the  best  living  specimens  of  the  mountain-man  of  a  period 
when  the  great  mountain  and  desert  regions  of  the  West  were  the  scenes  of 
the  wildest  romance  and  adventure,  they  could  not  fail  to  be  most  deeply  in- 
teresting even  if  written  by  the  clumsiest  of  pens  ;  but  when  told  in  the  easy, 
graceful,  narrative  style  which  Mrs.  Victor  understands  so  well,  the  story  is 
frequently  thrilling,  and  always  captivating. — "Oregonian,"  Portland,  Oregon. 

AGENTS  WANTED.    Address 

COLUMBIAN  BOOK  CO.,  Hartford,  Conn. 
W.  E.  BLISS,  Toledo,  Ohio. 

UNION  PUBLISHING  CO.,  Chicago,  111. 


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